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There are two broad categories of knit textiles: weft and warp. Weft knits are
made by feeding yarn to all needles horizontally to construct a course. Weft knits
can be produced on either a circular knit machine or a flat bed machine. In warp
knitting, one yarn is used for each knitting needle. Each stitch in a course is
made by a different yarn.
Alamac uses circular knit machines to manufacture weft knit fabric for apparel
manufacturers.
Basic weft knit fabric Course: Row of loops Wale: Vertical chain of
or stitches running loops in the lengthwise
across the knit fabric direction of the fabric,
formed by one needle
Knitting Industry
knitting industry is a very complex one. It has two primary areas having their own sub
divisions of specialization. One of the key segments of knitting industry manufactures
knitted goods for garment manufacturers, sewing centers, and consumers among others.
The other one produces finished apparels such as hosiery, sweaters, underwear etc.
• Weft knit fabric, where one continuous yarn forms courses across the fabric.
• Warp knit fabric, where a series of yarns form wales in the lengthwise direction of
the fabric.
Weft Knitting
There are three basic stitches in weft knitting
• Plain-knit stitch
• Purl stitch
• Rib stitch
Any other stitch is a variation of these three stitches. Hand knitting is basically weft
knitting. When done on weft knitting machines, individual yarn is fed to a single or
multiple needles at a time.
Plain-knit stitch: Plain knit, the basic form of knitting can be produced in flat knit or in
tubular (or circular) form. It is also called jersey stitch or balbriggan stitch. A row of latch
or beard needles is arranged in a linear position on a needle plate or in a circular position
on a cylinder. The side by side evenly spaced needles are moved by cams, which act on
the needle butts. The spacing of the needles is called gauge, gage or cut which refers to
the number of needles in one and a half inches, for example, a 60 gauge machine will
have 40 needles per inch. The needles intermesh loops drawn to one side of the fabric,
forming vertical herringbone like ribs or wales on the right side or technical face of the
fabric. On the reverse side or the technical back, courses are visible as interlocking rows
of opposed half circles. These fabrics have the tendency of curling up at the edges which
is controlled to a level through certain finishes.
Plain knit allows the use of single or plied yarns produces comparatively lightweight
fabrics than produced by other stitches. The production rate is higher, about 5 times more
than weaving. It is inexpensive and a variety of designs may be produced including
stripes, multicolored patterns, textured surfaces produced by raised designs and pile
effects. Plain-knit fabrics stretch more in the width than in the length and as such, they
are widely used for making underwear, gloves, hosiery and sweaters.
Purl stitch: Purl stitch, also called link-and-link stitch, is made on flat bed knitting
machines and circular machines by needles using hooks on both ends to alternately draw
loops to the front of the fabric in one course and to the back in the next course. The
fabrics look similar on both the sides resembling back of the plain knit. Heavy, jumbo
stitch is also possible which gives a bulky effect to the fabrics. However, It is
comparatively slower and a costly technique. The fabric doesn't curl at the edges. Purl
stitch is widely used in infant wear and kids clothing due to its crosswise stretch and
excellent lengthwise stretch.
Rib stitch: Rib stitch produces alternate lengthwise rows of plain and purl stitches and as
such the face and back of the fabrics are a look-alike. Rib stitch can be produced on a flat
rib machine as well as circular rib machine. In the flat rib machine, one set of needles is
placed opposite the other set of needles in an inverted V position. In the circular rib
machine, one set of needles is placed vertically in a cylinder and the other set of needles
is placed horizontally on a dial. In both the machines, one set of needles pulls the loops to
the front and the other set of needles pulls the loops to the back of the fabric. Each set of
needles alternately draws loops in its own direction, depending on the width of the rib
desired. For instance, rib stitches can be 1X1, 2X2, 2X1, 3X1, and the like. Accordion rib
is the combination of 1x1 and 2X2. As a greater amount of yarn is required for rib stitch
and the rate of production is also slower, it is an expensive method of fabric construction.
The fabric doesn't curl at the edges and as the fabric possess an excellent widthwise
elasticity, it is widely used for making such clothing that needs an excellent fit such as
wristbands of sleeves and waistbands of garments, underwear and socks for men and
children.
Warp Knitting
Warp knitting is different from weft knitting in the sense that in it each needle loops its
own thread. The needles of warp knitting machines produce parallel rows of loops that
are interlocked in a zigzag pattern. The stitches on the front side of the fabrics appear
vertically having a slight angle. The stitches on the backside appear horizontally as floats
at a slight angle. These floats are called laps or underlaps and are a distinguished features
of warp knit fabrics. Warp knitting machine Warp knitting may be flat or tubular that can
produce a variety of patterns. It is a very fast technique that can produce fabric with a
dimensional stability almost equal to that of a woven fabric. It can also use yarns of man
made fibers very efficiently. There are basically seven types of warp knitting- Tricot knit;
Milanese knit; Simplex knit; Raschel knit; Ketten Raschel knit; Crochet and Weft-
insertion warp. Warp knit fabrics are very popular due to their many properties such as
smoothness, sheerness, wrinkle resistance, shrink resistance, strength and abrasion
resistance.
Dyeing
Dyeing is the process of imparting colors to a textile material in loose fibre, yarn, cloth or
garment form by treatment with a dye.
Dye types
For most of the thousands of years in which dyeing has been used by humans to decorate
clothing, or fabrics for other uses, the primary source of dye has been nature, with the
dyes being extracted from animals or plants. In the last 150 years, humans have produced
artificial dyes to achieve a broader range of colors, and to render the dyes more stable to
resist washing and general use. Different classes of dyes are used for different types of
fiber and at different stages of the textile production process, from loose fibers through
yarn and cloth to completed garments.
Acrylic fibers are dyed with basic dyes, Nylon and protein fibers such as wool and silk
are dyed with acid dyes, polyester yarn is dyed with disperse dyes. Cotton is dyed with a
range of dye types, including vat dyes, which are similar to the ancient natural dyes, and
modern synthetic reactive and direct dyes.
Methods
Dyes are applied to textile goods by dyeing from dye solutions and by printing from dye
pastes.
Direct application
The term "direct dye application" stems from some dyestuff having to be either fermented
as in the case of some natural dye or chemically reduced as in the case of synthetic vat
and sulfur dyes before being applied. This renders the dye soluble so that it can be
absorbed by the fiber since the insoluble dye has very little substantively to the fiber.
Direct dyes, a class of dyes largely for dyeing cotton, are water soluble and can be
applied directly to the fiber from an aqueous solution. Most other classes of synthetic
dye, other than vat and surface dyes, are also applied in this way.
The term may also be applied to dyeing without the use of mordants to fix the dye once it
is applied. Mordants were often required to alter the hue and intensity of natural dyes and
improve their color fastness. Chromium salts were until recently extensively used in
dying wool with synthetic mordant dyes. These were used for economical high color
fastness dark shades such as black and navy. Environmental concern has now restricted
their use, and they have been replaced with reactive and metal complex dyes which need
no mordant.
Yarn dyeing
There are many forms of yarn dyeing. Common forms are the at package form and the at
hanks form. Cotton yarns are mostly dyed at package form, and acrylic or wool yarn are
dyed at hank form. In the continuous filament industry, polyester or polyamide yarns are
always dyed at package form, while viscose rayon yarns are partly dyed at hank form
because of technology.
The common dyeing process of cotton yarn with reactive dyes at package form is as
follows:
1. The raw yarn is wound on a spring tube to achieve a package suitable for dye
penetration.
2. These softened packages are loaded on a dyeing carrier's spindle one on another.
3. The packages are pressed up to a desired height to achieve suitable density of
packing.
4. The carrier is loaded on the dyeing machine and the yarn is dyed.
5. After dyeing, the packages are unloaded from the carrier into a trolly.
6. Now the trolly is taken to hydro extractor where water is removed.
7. The packages are hydro extracted to remove the maximum amount of water
leaving the desired color into raw yarn.
8. The packages are then dried to achieve the final dyed package.₪
After this process, the dyed yarn packages are packed and delivered.
Removal of dyes
In order to remove natural or unwanted color from material, the opposite process of
bleaching or discharging is carried out.
If things go wrong in the dyeing process, the dyer may be forced to remove the dye
already applied by a process that is normally known as stripping. This normally means
destroying the dye with powerful reducing agents (sodium hydrosulphite) or oxidizing
agents (hydrogen peroxide or sodium hypochlorite). The process often risks damaging the
substrate (fiber). Where possible, it is often less risky to dye the material a darker shade,
with black often being the easiest or last option.
Methods:
STEP 1
• Take 1 package or a ½ bottle of RIT dye (2 packs or a full bottle will give a full color
particularly for medium, bright or dark colors) and place it in an old sauce pan with a
quart of water (1 pint of water per package used).
• Place sauce pan on the stove and heat it up, stirring while it heats. The purpose here is
to totally dissolve the dye into the water.
STEP 2
• Fill your washer with hot water (140 degrees is best for dark colors), add the dye/water
from your saucepan, plus a splash of vinegar to help set the dye, and turn on the agitator
for several minutes- to mix in the dye solution.
STEP 3
• Take a piece of rag and put it in the washer for a few minutes. Pull it out and look at the
color to see if it’s what you want. If its too light then add more dissolved dye.
• Never add more than 4 packages or 2 bottles per washer load when dyeing a large
amount of fabric.
STEP 4
• Turn machine on again, and let it agitate for another 3 minutes. --This will assure that all
the dye is thoroughly mixed in.
• Never pour dye directly on fabric.
STEP 5
• Wet the garments to be dyed and place them loosely into washer and turn machine on.
STEP 6
• Take garments out of machine after the cycle and either line dry or put in dryer.
• If you use the dryer, be sure to wipe it out with a bleach cloth after use to remove any
dye.
STEP 7
Clean-Up
The yarn count expresses the thickness of the yarn, and must be known before calculating
the quantity of yarns for a known length of fabric. The yarn count number indicates the
length of yarn in relation to the weight.
Three systems of yarn count are currently in use: the fixed weight; the fixed length and
the Tex systems. The foxed weight can be used with British and American weights and
systems. The fixed length system and the Tex system are based on metric weights and
measures. Tex is an internationally agreed system of yarn numbering that applies to all
types of yarns, regardless of the method of production.
YARN COUNT
Count is very important factor for the Textile Yarn Manufacturing. Maintaining the yarn
count is mandatory to retain the quality of a yarn and fabrics. Now read the basic things
about yarn count at below:
There are several count system of yarn. These count systems have been divided in two
ways. One is Direct System where length is fixed and another is Indirect system where
weight is fixed.
A). Tex: Weight of yarn in gm present in 1000 meter length. It is a universal system of
counting the yarn.
B). Denier: Weight of yarn in gm present in 9000 meter length. It is basically used for
man made fiber.
C) Pounds Per Spindle: Weight of yarn in lbs present in 1440 yards length.
A). English Cotton Count: No. of hanks of 840 yds present in 1 lb of yarn.
C) Worsted count: No. of hanks of 560 yds present in 1 lb of Yarn. It is basically used
for Wool.
Yarn is very broad term. Like most things, yarns can have many different characteristics.
This is an overview of the different types of yarns used to make sweaters, knit fabrics and
woven fabrics.
Ends: 1 thread or strand of yarn. Usually a yarn will have at least 2 ends to form a plied
yarn.
Ply: Refers to the number of ends that make up a yarn. Yarns can be 1 ply (single ply), 2
ply, 3 ply or 4 ply. Most yarns are 2 ply.
Yarn Count: Refers to the size of the yarn including the ply. A typical sweater yarn can
be 2/30. This means it is a 2 ply and the size of the yarn is 30. This is a fairly fine yarn
for sweaters. A 2/20 yarn count is bigger than 2/30. Both are 2 ply, but 20 is a larger yarn
size than 30. It works the same as wire gauges, the higher the number the smaller the size.
When analyzing the yarn count, the ply and yarn size are import. 2/30 is bigger that 1/30.
2/30 is 2 ply of 30 yarn size while the 1/30 is only 1 ply of 30 yarn size. 2/30 is twice the
size of 1/30.
Yarn Count:
Direct Count:
In direct system length unit is fixed but weight unit is variable. In this system the
weight of fixed length of yarn is calculated and expressed by different weiht unit
especially gram. In this system yarn will be coarser if the number is increased.
Direct system is classified normally into two- 1. Denier 2. Tex.
In this system, the length of yarn is 9000 m. if weight of 9000 m length of yarn is 40
gram the count of that yarn will be 40 denier.
Tex:
In tex system weight of 1000 m length of yarn is considered and expressed by gram.
Such as, if weight of 1000m length of yarn is 20 gram, the count of that yarn will be
20 tex.
Lbs/ Spindle:
Weight of 14,400 yds jute yarn is calculated and expressed by lbs. That means, if
14,400 yds jute yarn weight is 8 lbs, the count of that jute yarn will be 8 lbs/ spindle.
Indirect Count:
In indirect system the count is classified into two groups. One is English cotton
count system and another is Metric system.
Here weight unit is fixed but length unit is variable. In this system the number of
hank of 840 yds yarn in one lbs is the number of English cotton count. Higher the
number of count, finer the yarn. the lower the number of count, the coarser the
yarn. It is expressed by (Ne).
Metric System:
In this count system number of hank of 560 yds yarn in one kg is the number of
metric count. It is expressed by (Nm).
During dyeing the most well-known knit fabric like Single Jersey, 1*1 Rib, PK Fabric the
following dyeing process flowchart can be followed. I have tried my best to note here the
contemporary dyeing process and chemicals. So that you will be able to easily manage
your chemicals and other production related accessories.
>Continue this process at 95˚C for 45 minutes. Liquor Ratio will be 1:12. Machine speed
should be fixed with 180 RPM.
CK-1———-0.3%
DMB———–0.5%
C————–0.8%
Hydrogen per Oxide—-3.0%
PH-100—–0.8%
FFC———–0.1%
Caustic——-2.0%
>Again continue this process at 95˚C for 45 minutes. Liquor Ratio will be 1:12. Machine
speed should be remained at 180 RPM.
Croaks-N ——1.0%
Acetic Acid —-1.0%
Continue it at 70˚C for 10 minutes.
200B —-1.5%
C———-0.8%
Acetic Acid—-0.1%
>Salt Dosing
>Soda dosing
>Apply softener
>To dye the Single Jersey (S/J), 1*1 Rib, PK fabric, using above mentioned dyeing
procedure will be easier. Hope this flow chart will help you lot.
Before dyeing a fabric or yarn some pre-treatment and after treatment is needed. A
flowchart is drawn here by combining these:
Direct dyes:
These dye staffs are generally sodium salt of sulphonic acid. They have direct affinity to
cellulosic fibre. They are water soluble and needs salt addition in the dye bath. Should be
applied at alkaline or neutral condition. Poor fastness to wash but cheaper for fabric
dyeing.
Basic dyes:
These are generallyu ammonium, sulphonium or a uxonium salt. Famous for bright shade
during dyeing fabric. Water soluble and application on cotton and other cellulosic fibre
and leathers.
Acid dyes:
chemically acid dyes belongs to various subclasses such as nitro nitroso, monoazo, diazo,
xanthance azine, quinoline, anthraquinone etc. they are water soluble and have affinity to
wool, silk and nylon fibres to dyeing. They are applied to the fibres through neutral or
acid dye bath.
Mordant dyes:
They are the oldest natural dyes. They have no affinity to textiles but can be applied to
cellulose or protein fibres in order to dyeing fabric when they have been mordented
previously with metallic salt. These dye staffs are capable of combining with metallic
oxides to form insoluble colour on the fibre .
Sulpher dyes:
These are complex organic compounds containing sulphur. They are insoluble in water
but sluble under reduced condition . they are usually applied cotton for cheaper shades,
have high wet fastness but poor light fastness during dyeing fabric.
Azoic dyes:
These are not ready made dyes. Fibres are firstly impregnated with a coupling component
like bita nepthol and then combined with a diazotized base to producer insoluble dye
staffs into the fibre. Their main use on cotton but also can be used to dyeing wool silk
and fur.
Vat dyes:
These are very fast color on cotton and insoluble in water. They are reduced by strong
reducing agent to pr9oduce leuco vat and at this stage they are soluble in water. After
impregnation they are again oxidized to their original insoluble form.
Reactive dyes:
These dye staffs directly combinds with cellulose by chemical bonding i.e. covalent
bonds are produced. They have excellent wash fastness. Mainly used on cotton dyeing .
can also be applied on wool, silk and nylin dyeing. Dyeing is carried out in an alkine
bath.
Disperse dyes:
These dye staffs are very suitable for synthetic fibres for example polyester, nylon,
acrylic, cellulosic acetate, etc. high temperature dyeing methods are suitable for these dye
staffs but carrier dyeing method can also be applied.
In the above mentioned dyestuff, the Reactive Dyestuff is mostly used in today’s Textile
Industry.
Before going to dyeing process we just need to know some basics of Fiber surface on
which the dye molecules work.
A textile fiber has three phase; these are- Fiber surface, Diffusion Layer and Electrical
Double Layer. Dyes firstly come to in surface then go to diffusion layer; and at the last
step it concentrate onto the fiber.
4. Dye at the Fiber Surface —-here Dye Diffused into the Fiber.
5. Dye in the Fiber —– Here fixing is done and dye physically or chemically bound with
the fiber polymer. Chemical bond only happens in Reactive Dyeing and on other dyes;
the physical bonding is required.
JERSEY FABRIC
Jersey fabric is a type of knit textile made from cotton or a cotton and synthetic blend.
Some common uses for jersey fabric include t-shirts and winter bedding. The fabric is
warm, flexible, stretchy, and very insulating, making it a popular choice for the layer
worn closest to the body. Jersey also tends to be soft, making it very comfortable.
A knitting machine is used to make jersey, since it can create the small, even, close
grained stitches associated with jersey fabric. Like many other knit fabrics, jersey fabric
has a right side and a wrong side. The right side of the material is marked by a series of
very small lines which run vertically, and the wrong side has a horizontal grain. In most
cases, a garment made from jersey fabric is sewn with the right side facing out, unless the
seamstress is making a deliberate stylistic choice.
One of the reasons many people like to wear jersey fabric is the stretch factor. The fabric
can stretch up to 25% percent along its grain. Garments made from the material have
plenty of give as their wearers move, and also tend to cling to the body, since the fabric
contracts as well as expanding. Knit dresses are usually made from jersey fabric,
exploiting the clingy characteristic of the fabric. Jersey fabric is also available in a large
assortment of colors and patterns to suit all tastes.
Care directions for jersey fabric vary, depending on whether the fabric is entirely natural
or partially synthetic. As a general rule, jersey fabric can be washed in warm water with
like colors, and tumble dried on a medium setting. Bright colors will stay brighter longer
if they are washed on a cold setting and dried on low. Try to avoid mixing bright colors
and whites in the wash, as the colors may bleed.
When sewing jersey fabric, it is recommended that the fabric be washed first, especially
if it is cotton. All knits tend to shrink when they are washed, and washing beforehand
eliminates shrinkage issues. It is also important to use a pattern specifically designed for
knit fabrics, as the pattern will account for the stretch factor of the material. Most
seamstresses also use a double layer of stitching or an overlock stitch on jersey fabric, to
prevent unraveling.
A knitting Machine
A knitting machine knits yarn automatically, after being set or programmed to knit a
specific pattern. A knitting machine saves time compared to hand knitting, but the
machine knitter must still pay close attention to the knitting machine as slipped or tangled
stitches are common. Yarn thickness is the single most important consideration when
choosing a knitting machine.
If the yarn used in a knitting machine is too thick, the hooks that hold and knit the yarn
automatically will split right through the yarn. When choosing a knitting machine, the
knitter must decide what kind of knitted items the machine will be used to make. There
are three kinds of knitting machines: flat bed for lightweight items, mid gauge for mid-
weight items, and bulky or chunky for heavy items.
A flat bed knitting machine has small hooks placed .45 centimeters (4.5mm) apart. These
machines are good for Fairisle patterns, cables, and lace. Baby weight or sometimes even
thinner yarn can be used. The thickest yarn that can usually be used on a flatbed knitting
machine is sport or DK.
A mid gauge knitting machine produces garments that look the most like hand knitting.
The hooks are placed .65 centimeters (6.5mm) apart. Sometimes baby weight or chunky
yarns may be used, but not always. Common worsted, sport, and DK yarns usually work
best, but check with the manufacturer's instructions.
A bulky or chunky knitting machine has hooks placed .9 centimeters (9mm) apart and is
perfect for making heavy sweaters. Cables and Fairisle patterns usually work well. Sport
or DK are the smallest weight of yarns that should be used on a bulky knitting machine,
but will not work on some models. Bulky or chunky style yarns work best.
Although no knitting machine made so far can replicate every hand knitting stitch, a
knitting machine is a fast, reliable way to knit products for home use or for sale. It is
important to remember, however, that machine knitting is not necessarily easier than
hand knitting. A knitting machine needs much more attention to detail than a sewing
machine and can require regular untangling of caught yarn and pick-ups of slipped
stitches.
The type of knitting machine patterns you’ll most likely be looking for will depend on the
type of machine you have. Some machines hold many more stitches and needles than
others, so making large blankets and throws are easier. Smaller machines are usually used
for making personal garments or other crafts. Circular knitting machines are most often
used for knitting in the round to create garments like hats, socks, or even skirts. Most
knitting machine patterns will specify the type of machine they are intended for and how
many stitches are needed so you know if your machine is big enough.
The best way to tell the quality of the pattern is by how easy it is to follow. Knitting
machine patterns with clear instructions and details are important, especially for
beginners. Abbreviations of common knitting terms, such as cast on, slip stitch, and cast
off, are found in a large majority of patterns, but instructions should not be more abstract
than necessary. Graph or charted patterns are a solid choice for visual learners and can be
programmed in computerized machines easily or set up on standard machines as well.
Patterns which also detail how your machine should be set up before casting on are also a
very good idea.
Normally, those who are just learning how to machine knit will want to start with easy
projects such as scarves, tote bags, or even table runners. Lace patterns are very popular
for these types of projects, but may be hard to reproduce without detailed pattern
instructions. Lessons may also be a good idea to get the most out of your machine. It is
important to know that machine knitting is very different from hand knitting, so even
those who have been knitting for years may have to take some time learning. The best
knitting machine patterns should help you do this.
The Four-point system will be used to determine the lot acceptance of fabrics for adidas-
Salomon. This numeric grading system is endorsed by the American Society for Testing
and Materials (ASTM), The American Apparel Manufacturers Association (AAMA) and
the European Clothing Manufacturing Association (ECMA).
1 point - Defects of size exceeding 0 inches but not exceeding 3 inches (7.5cm)
2 points - Defects of size exceeding 3 inches (7.5cm) but not exceeding 6 inches (15cm)
3 points - Defects of size exceeding 6 inches (15cm) but not exceeding 9 inches (22.5cm)
4 points - Defects of size exceeding 9 inches (22.5cm)
B) No yard shall be penalized more than 4 points.
C) All holes regardless of size, shall be penalized 4 points. There must be two or more
yarns broken at the same place, for the defect to be considered a hole.
D) No piece shall be accepted as first quality where the usable width (which is the width
between the insides of the selvages or between the stenter pinholes) is less than the
minimum usable width stated on the purchase agreement. Unless otherwise stated, the
fabric width specified on the adidas-Salomon material specification sheet is for minimum
fabric width, measured inside the selvages.
E) No piece shall be accepted as first quality that exhibits a noticeable degree of shading
from side-to-side or side-to-center.
ii) Printed in checker or stripe pattern: No piece shall be accepted as first quality
exhibiting more than 1.2 inches (3cm) of bow or bias on 60 inch (152cm) goods.
iii) Single jersey knitted fabrics within 5%. Note that fabric should be within 5% skew
after washing.
J) Any defect found to repeat and or run in a continuous manner will constitute a running
defect.
i) Any piece having a running or repeating defect through more than three (3) continuous
yards shall be rejected regardless of the point count.
ii) More than one occurrence, in excess of three (3) yards, in an audit can cause the dyelot
to be rejected.