Rainbow Slinky Dog: Materials

Rainbow
Slinky Dog
Materials
F/5 – 3.75mm hook
Worsted Weight yarn ‐ (I used all Red Heart Super Saver)
Yarn needle for weaving ends
Plastic Canvas – enough for (9) 3”‐circles
(1) pair of safety eyes; I used 9mm
Polyester toy stuffing, or other stuffing material
Skill Level
Beginner/ Intermediate
This pattern is very simple, but long enough to seem
intimidating. You can do it if you don't give up! :)
1
Gauge
Gauge is not critical to this project. You just want to ensure
that you are creating tight enough stitches so that stuffing
won't show through.
However, since I am a perfectionist:
8sc and 9 rows = 2”
Measurements
19” long and 9” tall
Abbreviations:
blo: back loop only
ch(s): chain(s)
sc: single crochet
invdec: invisible decrease; see note
sk: skip
st(s): stitch(es)
sl st('ing): slip stitch(ing)
(#): indicates the number of sts you should have at the end of that row/ rnd
Notes:
Invisible decrease:
Invisible decrease: this stitch can be used to take the place of a regular “decrease”, or
“sc2tog”. It creates a virtually *invisible decrease*, rather than the bump that is made by a
sc2tog.
It is commonly abbreviated into the following steps: insert hook into front loops only of
next 2 stitches, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over, pull through final 2
loops on hook ‐ counts as 1 single crochet. You just took 2 sts, and decreased them into one.
See Image 1, below.
Color Changes:
The cleanest method for changing to a new color of yarn is as follows:
Work all the way up to the last step of the stitch in the old color. For a sc, that is to insert
hook in the specified stitch, yarn over, and pull up a loop (two loops on hook). Then drop the
old color, yarn over with the new color, and pull the new color through both loops on your
hook. You complete half of the sc in the old color, and half of the sc in the new color.
See Image 2, below.
My best tip on amigurumi:

You want to stuff pieces as full as possible, as crochet stitches will relax over time. Over‐
stuffing each piece now, will avoid a mis‐shapen toy later. When you think you can't fit any
more stuffing in – put in a bit more. ;)
Attaching pieces:
Sarah Horrocks from The Whole Knit & Caboodle has a great video showing how to use
2
the Mattress Stitch/ Ladder Stitch to attach amigurumi pieces. This is THE best, most
invisible way of sewing pieces onto an ami project, and I highly recommend watching her
tutorial.
http://thewholeknitandcaboodle.com/?s=mattress&submit=Go
Head – make 1
Using Cornmeal, ch 2
Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6); tighten to close if necessary
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in 1st st; 2 sc in next st; (sc in next st; 2 sc in next st); rpt () around (18)
Rnd 4: sc in 1st 2 sts; 2 sc in next st; (sc in next 2 sts; 2 sc in next st); rpt () around (24)
Rnd 9: sc even around (48)
Rnds 11‐16: sc even around (54)
Rnd 17: sc in 1st 7sts; inv‐dec over next 2 scs; (sc in next 7 sts; inv‐dec over next 2 scs); rpt
3
() around (48)
() around (42)
Rnd 24: sc in 1st 5sts; inv‐dec over next 2 scs; (sc in next 5 sts; inv‐dec over next 2 scs ; rpt
() around (36)
() around (30)
() around (24)
Begin stuffing head.
() around (18)
Rnd 36: sc in 1st st; inv‐dec over next 2 scs; (sc in next st; inv‐dec over next 2 scs); rpt ()
around (12)
Finish stuffing head.
Rnd 37: inv‐dec over first 2 scs; (inv‐dec over next 2 scs); rpt () around (6)
Fasten of, leaving long tail, and tighten to close. Thread tail onto yarn needle and weave end
under several stitches securely.
Nose – make 1
Using Cafe Latte, ch 2
() around (18)
Rnd 12: sc in 1st st; inv‐dec over next 2 scs; (sc in next st; inv‐dec over next 2 scs); rpt ()
around (12)
Fasten of, leaving long tail (24”). Use a very small amount of White, stitch a little highlight
onto the top of the Nose. Stuff Nose and thread the tail onto yarn needle. Use the tail to stitch
the Nose onto the Head. The top edge of the Nose should line up with Rnd 5 of the Head; the
bottom edge of the Nose should line up with Rnd 2 of the Head. Embroider mouth with
same tail, around Rnd 8 or Rnd 9 of the Head. Weave end under several stitches securely,
and fasten off.
Eyes – make 2
Using White, ch 2
4
Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6); do not tighten.
(I like to work the next 4‐6 stitches over the starting tail, and it can then be pulled tight, the
same as a Magic Ring.)
Place post of safety eye into the open hole in the center of the crochet eye, and pull the
starting end to tighten the circle, as much as you can. Fasten the washer to the back of the
safety eye. See Image 3, below.
Fasten off, leaving long tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle and use the tail to attach each Eye
to the Head. The lower edge of each Eye should line up with Rnd 11 of the Head, and the
Eyes should be almost touching each other above the Nose. Use photo as a guide. Stuff each
Eye lightly before completing the attachment.
Slinky Segments ‐ make 2 pieces for each Segment color, 16 pieces total
Make 7 Segments, in your chosen Slinky color(s).
I used: Cherry, Pumpkin, Bright Yellow, Spring Green, Turqua, Royal, & Dark Orchid.
Also make 2 more pieces in your body color (Cornmeal)
Using chosen color, ch 2
Fasten off after each piece, and weave in ends. This will make it easier when you are
assembling the Slinky Segments. Before you move on to the next step, use one Slinky
Segment piece as a template for cutting out the plastic canvas circles to fit into each pocket
of the Slinky Segment – cut the plastic slightly smaller than the crochet Slinky Segment
circle itself. You'll need 9 circles of plastic canvas.
5
You'll be sewing the Slinky Segments together in an odd way – which will make sense at the
end, I promise! ;)
You want to stitch the center of each circle to the center of it's partner‐circle, (stitch
completely around Row 3 or 4) with right sides facing each other. Use a yarn color that
coordinates, and stitch together with the yarn needle. See Image 4, below.
If you are doing the same colors as the pattern photos, you want this order:
Cornmeal circle attached to Cherry circle
Cherry circle attached to Pumpkin circle
Pumpkin circle attached to Bright Yellow circle
Bright Yellow Circle attached to Spring Green circle
Spring Green circle attached to Turqua circle
Turqua circle attached to Royal circle
Royal circle attached to Dark Orchid circle
Dark Orchid circle attached to Cornmeal circle
Once all circles are sewn to their contrasting‐colored mates with the right sides facing
each other, you will THEN be attaching the matching‐colored mates to each other with the
wrong sides facing each other, by slip stitching them closed with their corresponding yarn
color. Before you complete the closure, insert the plastic canvas circle into the pocket of
each Slinky Segment, and finish sl st'ing to close. Weave end under several stitches securely,
and fasten off.
See Image 5 below.
The Cormeal circles will be on the ends, waiting to be attached to the body, and there will be
a rainbow‐colored Slinky between them. I know that sounds confusing just reading it, and
maybe even with the photos, but I know it will make sense once you get going.
See Image 6, below.
6
Body – make 2
Using Cornmeal, ch 2
() around (48)
Do not fasten off after completing each Body section. Stuff the Body section, hold one
Cornmeal Slinky Segment piece against the Body section, and begin sl st'ing to close. Before
7
you complete the closure, insert another plastic canvas circle between the Slinky Segment
circle, and the stuffing of the Body. Complete the sl st'ing around to close the Body, inserting
more stuffing on the correct side of the plastic canvas, as needed. (You don't want any
stuffing to be between the plastic canvas circle and the Slinky Segment circle – all the
stuffing should stay in the Body section.)
See Image 7, below.
Repeat with other Body section and Cornmeal Slinky Segment piece. Weave ends under
several stitches securely, and fasten off. Attach Head to Body so that Rnd 10 of the Head
meets up with Rnd 10 of the Body. Make sure to stitch a large connection‐area between the
two pieces, so that the Head is secure, and not floppy.
Paws – make 4
Using Cafe Latte, ch 2
Change to Cornmeal
8
Rnd 7: sc even around in blo (36)
Rnd 11: sc in next 10 sts; inv‐dec over next 2 scs; sc in next 12 sts; inv‐dec over next 2 scs;
sc in next 10 sts (34)
Rnd 12: sc in next 9 sts; inv‐dec over next 2 scs; sc in next 12 sts; inv‐dec over next 2 scs; sc
in next 9 sts (32)
in next 8 sts (30)
in next 7 sts (28)
in next 6 sts (26)
in next 6 sts (24)
Begin stuffing Paw.
Rnd 17: sc in 1st 2sts; inv‐dec over next 2 scs; (sc in next 2 sts; inv‐dec over next 2 scs ); rpt
() around (18)
Add more stuffing if you can.
Fasten of, leaving long tail.
Using Cafe Latte, thread a length onto yarn needle and attach to the the area of Rnd 6 or 7,
where the two colors meet. Note that the "join" area of each Paw is the back, and the
decreases form the shaping on the front of the Paw. Create three long, vertical stitches,
about 5 rounds high, pulling very tightly to gather the crochet stitches and stuffing, forming
toes.
See Image 8, below.
Thread tail onto yarn needle and use the tail to attach the Paw to the Body. The forward
edge of each Paw should line up with Rnd 8 on the front body piece, and Rnd 16 on the back
Body piece. Make sure the Paws touch each other under the Body, and use the tail to make a
few stitches securing the front two Paws to each other, and the back two Paws to each other.
This will make the Slinky Dog a little more sturdy, and allow him to stand on his own.
Weave end under several stitches securely, and fasten off.
9
Ears – make 2
Using Cherry, ch 2
*Make sure you work over each new yarn end as you change colors and crochet the ears; it will
be too narrow to weave the ends in when you are done.*
Change to Pumpkin
Rnds 7‐10: sc even around (24) ‐ Change to Bright Yellow
Rnd 11: *sc in 1st 10 sts; inv‐dec over next 2 scs*; rpt from * to * once more (22)
Rnds 12‐14: sc even around (22) ‐ Change to Spring Green
Rnds 16‐17: sc even around (20) ‐ Change to Turqua
Rnds 19‐20: sc even around (18) ‐ Change to Royal
Rnds 22‐23: sc even around (16) ‐ Change to Dark Orchid
Rnds 25‐26: sc even around (14) ‐ Change to Cherry
Rnds 27‐29: sc even around (14) ‐ Change to Pumpkin
Fold flat and sc through both thicknesses, both sides of top of Ear, creating a seam and
closing the top. (7sc) (Ear remains unstuffed.)
Fasten off, leaving long tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle and use the long tail to attach the
Ear onto the Head. The forward‐edge of each Ear should line up with Rnd 23 of the Head,
which is about 2‐3 Rnds of space from the Eyes. The Ears should lie about even with the
center of the Eyes, alined with the safety eye.
10
Tail – make 1
Using Cherry, ch 2
*Make sure you work over each new yarn end as you change colors and crochet the ears; it will
be too narrow to weave the ends in when you are done.*
Rnds 2‐3: sc even around (8) ‐ Change to Pumpkin
Rnds 6‐7: sc even around (8) ‐ Change to Spring Green
Rnds 8‐9: sc even around (8) ‐ Change to Turqua
Rnds 10‐11: sc even around (8) ‐ Change to Royal
Rnds 12‐13: sc even around (8) ‐ Change to Dark Orchid
Fasten off, leaving long yarn tail. With all the yarn ends from color changes, its not really
necessary to use stuffing in the Tail; just use the ends to stuff. Thread yarn tail onto yarn
needle and use to attach the Tail onto the Body. Tail should line up with Rnd 7‐8 of Body.
This pattern was adapted by Kimberlie Goodnough of ShopKimberlie.

I translated it from a free blog‐link pattern, which was written in Russian by Elena Belova. I made
many of my own changes, but the original pattern has been linked below. I am not making any claim
that this is my pattern design, simply that I translated it to English, made my own design changes,
and also offer it free, like the designer did.
http://knitted‐style.blogspot.ru/2013/07/vazanaya‐taksa‐ot‐eleni‐belovoy.html
You may sell anything you make from this pattern – it is your creation!
You may not use any of the photos I have included in this pattern to advertise or sell your items –
you must take your own photos, of your own projects.
I would appreciate a link back to my shop anytime you sell items online.
Linking back to the original post by Elena Belova would also be a fantastic idea!
11
Happy hooking!
This pattern has been extensively tested to ensure accuracy; if you DO notice any corrections, please
feel free to contact me at
www.facebook.com/ShopKimberlie or taurusduck@yahoo.com
ShopKimberlie patterns can be found at

www.ravelry.com/designers/kimberlie‐goodnough
www.ShopKimberlie.etsy.com
http://www.craftsy.com/user/490928/pattern‐store
12

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Rainbow

My best tip on amigurumi:

This pattern was adapted by Kimberlie Goodnough of ShopKimberlie.

ShopKimberlie patterns can be found at

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