Basic Steps to Make Wine

The essential steps in winemaking can be summarized as follows:

1. Extract the flavor and aroma from the base ingredients by chopping, crushing, pressing, boiling
or soaking them.
2. Add sugar, acid, nutrients, and yeast to the fermentation media or liquor to achieve the proper
ratio and ferment, covered, for 3 to 10 days in a primary fermentation vessel (crock, jar or
polyethylene pail) at 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit.
3. Strain off the liquid from the pulp, put it (the liquid) into a secondary fermentation vessel (a
carboy or jug), fit a fermentation trap (airlock) on the mouth of the bottle, and allow
fermentation to proceed at 60-65 degrees Fahrenheit until all bubbling ceases (after several
weeks).
4. Siphon the wine off the sediments (lees) into another clean secondary fermentation vessel.
Reattach the fermentation trap. Repeat after another one or two months and again before
bottling.
5. When wine is clear and all fermentation has stopped, siphon into wine bottles and cork the
bottles securely. Leave corked bottles upright for 3-5 days and then store them on their side at
55 degrees Fahrenheit for six months (white wine) to a year (red wine) before sampling. If not
up to expectations, allow to age another year or more.

Detailed instructions for each of the five steps:

You can make this process as complicated and exacting as you please, but in fact it need not be. Recipes
have been developed over the centuries which pretty much make this a simple process of measuring,
squeezing and siphoning. Sure, there are ports and sherries and Madeiras which require a few extra
steps and exactitude, but even these methods were developed hundreds of years ago by people far less
sophisticated than you, so I'm wagering that you can master even those techniques if you decide to do
so. Further, there are recipes and there are dissertations on organic chemistry. While some authors
seem to try their dardest to make the whole process seem tedious, exacting and highly technical, others
try to get you from fruit to wine as simply as possible. I'd like to think I fall into the latter category,
despite the fact that I absorb as much of the technical details as I can.

It certainly doesn't hurt to know about the finer, more exacting points of winemaking. Indeed, these do
help in making better wine. But in fact, you don't really need to know them to make pretty good vino.
But to assist the viewer who wants to know them, I've put together a section I call "Advanced
Winemaking Basics." It's supplemented by a section devoted entirely to "The Miracle of Yeast," a subject
so large as to demand it's own section. You can view these at your leisure or ignore them altogether and
go straight to the recipes, because the wine is in the recipes.

EXTRACTING FLAVOR

"The base [base ingredients] is where the wine's flavor and aroma comes from."

The first essential step in winemaking is to extract the flavor and aroma from the base ingredients by
chopping, crushing, pressing, boiling or soaking them. This can be done in several ways. The recipes on
this site each select and specify a particular method for accomplishing this.

WHOLE FRUIT OR BERRIES: If you begin with whole fruit or berries, there are four basic methods of
extracting flavors and aromas. The base is first prepared. It might be peeled or not. Seeds (pits) might be
removed or not. Immature (not yet fully ripe) fruit or berries are culled (removed), as are those showing
signs of over-ripeness (brown spots, mold, rot) or bird or insect damage. After washing to remove dust,
bird droppings, insects and pesticides, the extraction method is selected. Placing the fruit or berries in a
nylon straining bag before it is placed in the primary greatly eases the later removal of the pulp from the
must.

Cold maceration. The fruit or berries are crushed or chopped or sliced and placed in the primary
fermentation vessel (called simply the primary). Sugar, water and sulfites (crushed Campden tablets or
potassium metabisulfite), as specified in the recipe, are added and stirred in well and the primary is
covered and set aside for 8-10 hours. Then pectic enzyme is added, stirred in well, and the primary is
refrigerated for a specified period (usually 24-48 hours). It is then removed and allowed to return to
room temperature. Additional ingredients are then added, stirred in well, and the yeast culture (in the
form of a starter solution) is introduced.

Hot water extraction. The fruit or berries are crushed or chopped or sliced and placed in the primary
fermentation vessel. The necessary amount of sugar is added and boiling water is poured over the fruit
and sugar. A sanitized wooden spoon or paddle is used to stir the must to help dissolve the sugar. The
primary is covered and set aside to cool to room temperature. Additional ingredients are then added in
a timed fashion according to the recipe and then the yeast culture is introduced in a starter solution.

Direct heat extraction. The fruit or berries are crushed or chopped or sliced and placed in a stainless
steel cooking pot. A small amount of water is added to prevent scorching and the pot is placed on the
stove on medium-high heat until the juices begin to flow from the base. Usually, the liquid is not allowed
to boil. The base is stirred to heat it evenly. After a set amount of time, it is removed from the heat. The
liquid is usually fermented without the pulp, but in some cases the pulp is left in the liquid and the two
are fermented together. If the liquid only is to be fermented, the base is either strained hot or allowed
to cool before being strained. The fruit and berries, or just the juice, are placed in the primary for
fermentation. The sugar and water may be added while still hot, but most other ingredients are not
added until the mixture cools to room temperature. This method is only used for particular reasons, as
the cooking adds another flavor component to the finished wine that many find objectionable.

Fermentation extraction. The fruit or berries are crushed or chopped or sliced and placed in the primary
fermentation vessel. Other ingredients, including sugar, water, sulfites, pectic enzyme, acid blend, yeast
nutrients, etc., are added in a time-dependent fashion and then the yeast culture is introduced in a
starter solution. Flavors and aromas are extracted by the fermentation action of the yeast on the must.
This occurs at a normal (room) ambient temperature.

FRUIT JUICE OR CONCENTRATE: Concentrates are reconstituted (diluted with water) into juice before
fermenting. Other ingredients are added to protect and balance the must after it is placed in a primary.
Always begin fermentation in a primary, without an airlock, unless specially instructed to begin in a
carboy. The inoculate (yeast culture added to the juice) needs exposure to oxygen for the first 48-72
hours to assist the yeast in rapid reproduction and increase the population to a density suitable for rapid
fermentation.

FLOWERS AND LEAVES: Some of the best wines are made from flower petals. Dandelion, rose petal and
hibiscus are three flowers that make excellent wines. Honeysuckle, cactus flower, tulip, red or white
clover, and coreopsis also make wonderful wines. Flavor is usually extracted by one of three methods.
Place the flowers (usually just the petals) in a nylon straining bag to reduce cleanup time and effort.
Brambles, vine prunings, nettle tops, and leaves of selected trees and herbs are processed the same as
are flowers and petals.

Hot water extraction. The flowers or petals are placed in the primary fermentation vessel. The necessary
amount of sugar is added and boiling water is poured over the flowers and sugar. A sanitized wooden
spoon or paddle is used to stir the must to help dissolve the sugar. The primary is covered and set aside
to cool to room temperature. Additional ingredients are then added in a timed fashion according to the
recipe. The mixture is sometimes allowed to steep for some time and then brought to a boil in a
stainless steel pot, allowed to cool, and then placed in primary. When cooled and fortified with all
additional ingredients (acid blend, tannin, yeast nutrient, etc., the yeast culture is introduced in a starter
solution.

Direct heat extraction. The flowers or petals are placed in a stainless steel cooking pot. A small amount
of water is added to prevent scorching and the pot is placed on the stove on medium-high heat and
brought to a boil for a set amount of time. It is removed from the heat and poured through a straining
bag or muslin cloth draped in a funnel. The liquid is allowed to cool and transferred to a primary. The
sugar and remaining water may be added while still hot, but most other ingredients are not added until
the liquid cools to room temperature.
Fermentation extraction. The flowers or petals are placed in the primary fermentation vessel. Other
ingredients, including sugar, water, sulfites, pectic enzyme, acid blend, yeast nutrients, etc., are added in
a time-dependent fashion and then the yeast culture is introduced in a starter solution. Flavors and
aromas are extracted by the fermentation action of the yeast on the must. This occurs at a normal
(room) ambient temperature.

ADDITIVES AND OTHER INGREDIENTS

"The additives and other ingredients protect and balance the must."

The second essential step in winemaking is to add additional ingredients to the base and ferment in a
primary for 3 to 10 days at 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit.

Unless we use boiling water or direct heat for flavor extraction, or unless we use pasteurized juice or
frozen concentrate, it is important that the must be protected against bacteria and mold from the
earliest moment, and against oxidation. We do this by adding sulfites to the must in the form of crushed
and thoroughly dissolved Campden tablets or powdered potassium metabisulfite. This does not sterilize
the must, but brings it to an aseptic level of protection against microscopic organisms that can do
terrible things to wine. Just as importantly, the addition of sulfites creates both bound and unbound
(free) sulfur in the must. The later occurs most notably as sulfur dioxide gas, which tends to fill the
spaces between molecules of solid and liquid matter in the must. This is real important, because those
spaces are normally filled with oxygen atoms and they react with other molecules in the wine to
eventually reduce it to something undrinkable. Oxidation is the death-blow for all wine, so getting rid of
that oxygen and replacing it with sulfur dioxide helps protect and prolong the life of the wine. But it also
retards the tendency of all white wines to turn brown and red wines to turn brickish (reddish-brown).
Finally, they also inhibit the early growth of most wild yeasts that find their way into musts (on the skins
of grapes, fruits, berries, flowers, leaves, and other natural ingredients), while cultured wine yeasts are
largely sulfite tolerant. This allows the cultured yeasts to grow quickly without competition and
dominate the must. So, even if the recipe doesn't say to add sulfites, add them as early in the process as
practicable. They can even be added to warm (but not hot) must. The normal dose is one crushed and
dissolved Campden tablet to each gallon of must, or 1/4 teaspoon of potassium metabisulfite to each 5
gallons of must. Do not add more than this, as too much is in some cases worse than not enough.

Pectic enzyme is an additive to most fruit and berry musts. It not only breaks down natural pectin found
in most fruit, but also helps break down the cell walls in the pulp and skins and make it easier to extract
the flavors, aromas, acids, tannins and other and components that contribute to the complexity of
finished and aged wines. It is best to wait a few hours after adding sulfites (Campden tablets or
potassium metabisulfite) before adding pectic enzyme, as its action is retarded by an excess of sulfur
dioxide. After 8-10 hours, however, it is quite safe to add it. It comes in either liquid or powdered form.
The liquid is more concentrated and preferred by commercial winemakers, but it has a very finite shelf
life and must be refrigerated to even achieve that. It also varies in strength from different manufacturers
and cannot be reliably included in recipes, whereas the powdered form is fairly constant among
manufacturers, does not require refrigeration, and can be kept for several years without losing its ability
to reduce pectin. Pectic enzyme works best at cooler temperatures. Do not add it to musts above 75
degrees F.

Except for perfectly ripened wine grapes, most musts require acid adjustment to achieve balance. Some
fruit and berries contain too much acid and need dilution with water to bring their acidity to acceptable
levels. But most are acid-deficient to begin with and acidity needs to be added. Recipes most generally
call for the addition of acid blend, which is a mixture of citric, malic and tartaric acids in crystalline form.
Many recipes, especially older ones, use citric acid in the form of orange or lemon juice (or both). One
can buy crystalline citric, malic and tartaric acids. These have very long shelf lives and can be used to
change the acid profile of a wine, especially the finish and after-taste. Acids can be added at any time
before yeast inoculation.

The bite in wines is produced by tannin, a natural component of most fruit and berry skins, seeds and
stems. But most white wines lack sufficient tannin to produce a bite, and so tannin is generally added in
small amounts to help balance the wine's astringent side. Do not overdo it. A 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon
amount is usually sufficient to give the wine that "something" it needs. Tannin is usually either grape or
gallic in origin. Grape tannin is preferred. It is brickish in color and has a shelf life of many years. But it
does not dissolve well if added to liquid. Add it to a clean juice glass and then pour a little water or fruit
juice in on top of it. Stir it briskly with a fork or small whisk to dissolve it and pour that into the must.

Except for well-ripened wine grapes, almost all other winemaking bases lack the nutrients required by
yeast to produce a good, thorough fermentation. Yeast nutrients contain a variety of trace minerals, but
especially nitrogen. For a sterile must (one without any natural nutrients whatsoever), 1-1/2 to 2
teaspoons of nutrients per gallon of must might be required, but for most wines made from other than
wine grapes, a teaspoon of nutrients is sufficient. Do not mistaken yeast energizer for yeast nutrients.
Energizer is used rarely and then sparingly, with only 1/4 teaspoon per gallon being sufficient to do what
it is meant to do. It is rarely added to a must before the beginning of fermentation (an exception is for
blueberry wine) and is really only called for when a fermentation turns sluggish (slows considerably
while still possessing plenty of unfermented sugar) or sticks (stops fermenting while still possessing
considerable unfermented sugar) altogether. It is not a substitute for yeast nutrient.
Sugar is essential for making wine, as without it the yeast will not produce alcohol. Natural sugars in the
fruit, berries or juice are often insufficient to produce anything stronger than a weak cider. Most recipes
simply call for sugar. This means white, granulated cane or beet sugar. Do not use powdered sugar at all,
and only use brown or raw sugar in small quantities unless a larger amount is specified in the recipe.
Corn sugar can be used in direct proportions to granulated. Fructose (fruit sugar) is sweeter than other
kinds and should be used only when a sweet wine is desired or in sweetening a wine after fermentation.
Honey can be used in lieu of sugar, but use 1-1/4 pounds of honey for every pound of sugar called for.
Be sure to check the Glossary of Winemaking Terms on this web site for each of these additives,
including sugar.

Another essential ingredient found in every must is water, whether added by the winemaker or
contained in the juice to be converted to wine. It is not recommended that distilled water be used at all,
with the possible exception of topping up a carboy with too much air space between the wine and the
bung/airlock. If your local tap water tastes bad enough to require you to buy bottled water for
consumption, then at least use spring water in your winemaking. Distilled water contains none of the
trace elements essential to yeast health, while spring water always contains what yeast need. This need
is in addition to trace elements included in yeast nutrient. If your tap water is biologically untrustworthy
(contains microorganisms detrimental to your health), then by all means do not use it unless you bring it
to a full boil for 10 minutes first. Do not top up with recently boiled water -- allow it to cool down to
room temperature first, as yeast die at 104 degrees F.

Yeast make the wine and therefore are essential to the process. If you use fresh ingredients, such as
fruit, berries or herbs, yeast will come into your wine from outside naturally. They also float in the air in
almost every kitchen, so that a fruit juice left uncovered for an hour on the kitchen counter will collect a
culture. Neither of these yeasts should be used in making wine, nor should baking (bread) yeast. The
yeast on fruits and berries are wild, and probably contain strains of yeast unsuitable for wines. Some
produce off-flavors and odors, while others only produce small amounts of alcohol. Yeasts found in the
kitchen air are generally bread yeasts and also do not make enough alcohol for most table wines. More
importantly, molds also float around in the kitchen and will ruin an otherwise perfect must. Inhibit these
yeasts with sulfites and inoculate your must with cultured wine yeast strains. Hydrate the active dry
yeast (ADY) cultures in a starter solution and allow them time to begin reproducing themselves. The
more yeast you add to your must, the sooner they will convert it to wine. A 5-gram sachet (packet) of
ADY is sufficient to inoculate a 1- to 5-gallon batch, but if you allow it to begin in a good starter solution
it will double in population in about two hours. During the first 48-72 hours in the must, the yeast
population will double many times.

Always begin fermentation in a primary, without an airlock, unless specially instructed to begin in a
carboy. The inoculate (yeast culture added to the must) needs exposure to oxygen for the first 48-72
hours to assist the yeast in rapid reproduction and increase the population to a density suitable for rapid
fermentation. If the must has been sulfited, they need the large surface area to take in the oxygen
needed. The top of the primary need only be covered with a clean cloth of tight weave, such as muslin,
held in place with an elastic band. If you have a primary with rigid lid drilled for an airlock, use the lid but
plug the hole with a ball of cotton for the first few days.

TRANSFER TO SECONDARY

"Begin the anaerobic fermentation."

The third essential step in winemaking is to additional ingredients to strain off the liquid from the pulp,
put it (the liquid) into a secondary fermentation vessel (a carboy or jug), fit a fermentation trap (airlock)
on the mouth of the bottle, and allow fermentation to proceed at 60-65 degrees Fahrenheit until all
bubbling ceases (after several days to weeks).

Transfer does not mean rack. While the solids are strained off and discarded, the liquid and lees are
poured through a funnel into the secondary. The lees are important at this stage because many of the
live yeast cells will have settled into the lees. Without them, fermentation will get very sluggish or stick
(stop altogether). The best procedure is to stir the wine to get the lees into suspension, then pour the
liquid through a large funnel into the secondary. If the funnel has a fine-mesh screen insert, use it to
filter out the gross lees (large bits of pulp). The fine lees, containing the yeast, will pass through the
mesh.

The timing of the transfer has long been the subject of debate. In most of the 20th century, the
commonly accepted procedure was to ferment for three to five days and then transfer regardless of
specific gravity. The set number of days was usually arrived at by averaging the time it took to ferment
enough sugar to reduce the specific gravity to between 1.050 to 1.030. The idea was to get the wine
under airlock so it could begin a true anaerobic fermentation, or fermentation without access to oxygen.
The reason for this is because this is when the yeast converts sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide
while extracting energy from the transformation. More recently, it was discovered that yeast create a
micro-anaerobic environment around themselves as they submerge by using whatever oxygen atoms
are trapped in the spaces between molecules surrounding them. Only when they float up to the surface
are the possibly exposed to oxygen, and after the first 48-72 hours atmospheric oxygen has been
replaced with carbon dioxide created by fermentation. Thus, the old idea of getting the wine under
airlock quickly to create an anaerobic environment was shown to be mostly irrelevant and a new
practice was adopted.

Today the accepted practice is to keep the wine in the primary until the vigorous fermentation subsides.
This normally occurs at around specific gravity 1.010. As the vigorous fermentation subsides, the
production of carbon dioxide slows considerably and oxygen is able to migrate down through it to the
surface of the wine. Free sulfur dioxide still protects much of the surface wine from absorbing oxygen,
but sulfur dioxide is a gas and slowly escapes the wine. The intermolecular spaces vacated by the sulfur
dioxide are filled either with carbon dioxide rising through the wine or by oxygen scavenged from the
atmosphere by the wine -- a natural ocurrance. So, as the vigorous fermentation subsides, the wine
becomes more vulnerable to oxygen uptake. This is the best time to transfer the wine to secondary.

The best way to accomplish the transfer without exposing the wine to more oxygen than is necessary is
to tilt the funnel so that the wine escaping it slides down the inside of the carboy rather than drop free-
fall through the air to the bottom. This may require the tilting of the carboy itself, but simply tilting the
funnel means this is a two-person operation. An alternative procedure is to fit a hose or tubing to the
bottom of the funnel that extends to the bottom of the carboy. This, too, minimizes air contact.

Another way to minimize air contact while transferring the wine to secondary is to fill the carboy with
carbon dioxide. A small bottle of compressed CO2 will do this most efficiently. As the carboy fills with
CO2, it settles and fills the carboy from the bottom up, pushing oxygen-laden air up and out of the
carboy. The trick is to not fill the carboy too quickly, thereby allowing the CO2 to settle. Argon is another
inert gas that can be used in the same way to protect the wine against exposure to oxygen-laden air, but
both methods are really unnecessary if care is taken in tilting the funnel appropriately or using an
extension hose or tubing as described.

It sometimes happens that everything in the must is just perfect for the yeast and they ferment the
must to absolute dryness in only two or three days. When this happens (a hydrometer reading will show
the specific gravity at less that 1.000), go ahead and rack the wine into the secondary and slap an airlock
on it immediately.

When the fermentation in the secondary stops -- that is, when positive pressure inside the carboy stops
pushing bubbles through the airlock -- it is essential to use the hydrometer to ensure fermentation is
finished rather than stuck. This is only common sense, but it is surprising how many people forget it and
assume the fermentation has stuck rather than finished.

RACKING THE WINE

"Get the wine off the lees."

The fourth essential step in winemaking is to siphon the wine off the sediments (lees) into another clean
secondary, reattach the fermentation trap, and repeat after another one or two months and again
before bottling.

This procedure is called racking. It is done when necessary, not just two or three times as stated above.
The rule is, as long as there are fresh deposits on the bottom after a regular interval (30 to 60 days),
even if they are just a light dusting, the wine should be racked. Only when that interval passes and there
are no fresh lees -- AND the specific gravity is 1.000 or lower -- is the wine ready to be prepared for
bottling.

It is not necessary that the interval between rackings be 30 days, 45 days or 60 days, but it should not be
less than three weeks. It is perfectly okay to leave the wine on the lees for three months. Beyond that
and the wine enters a danger zone caused by dead yeast cells breaking down -- rotting. While this can
cause off-flavors and odors if allowed to go on too long, the bigger danger is the formation of hydrogen-
sulfide gas, which smells like rotten eggs and can be the death of the wine. But if the lees are stirred
every week or so, neither the off flavors, off odors nor hydrogen-sulfide gas form. Indeed, the wine is
actually improved by extended contact with the lees as long as they are stirred frequently.

During this entire period, the sulfur dioxide gas released into the wine from crushed Campden tablets or
potassium metabisulfite is slowly dissipated through the airlock and its protective qualities are lost. It is
therefore necessary to replenish this protection, and this is done at every other racking. The new sulfites
are added to the receiving secondary and the wine racked into it.
As in the transfer of the wine from the primary to the secondary, during rackings the wine's exposure to
oxygen-lade air should be minimized. This is much easier to do during racking than during the initial
transfer, as the downward end of the racking tube can easily be directed against the inside wall of the
carboy or under the surface of the transferred wine. Again, those who are extra cautious can sparge the
receiving carboy with carbon dioxide or argon gas before racking the wine into it.

Racking can be made easier by attaching a racking wand to the racking hose. A racking wand is a rigid, L-
shaped plastic tube that allows you to better control where the bottom of the take-up is located. The
take-up end of the wand is fitted with a protective cover that allows the wine to enter the wand from
above rather than below. This helps prevent it from sucking the lees below it into the receiving
secondary. A racking clip can also be attached to the mouth of the carboy to hold the take-up end of the
wand at a determined height (or depth). This depth should be midway between the surface of the wine
and the lees, and adjusted periodically to maintain that aspect.

Racking is not as difficult as many new winemakers make it. There is no reason to agonize over racking
at an exact interval, or leaving the wine in contact with the lees an extra week -- or even a month. But is
is prudent not to be sloppy about it, and to sanitize all equipment with sulfited water or a specialized
sanitizer before and after use. Cleanliness in winemaking is everything.

BOTTLING THE WINE

"There is more to finishing the wine than bottling it."

When the wine is clear and all fermentation has stopped, siphon it into wine bottles and cork the bottles
securely. Leave bottles upright for 3-5 days and then store them on their side at 55 degrees Fahrenheit
for six months (white wine) to a year (red wine) before sampling. If not up to expectations, allow to age
another year or more. While this is the essence of this step, there is actually a bit more to it.

It is assumed the wine will fall clear on its own within six months and perhaps another three rackings.
Almost all wines will, but some may need help. Help means either cold settling or fining. It does not
mean filtering, as only clear wines should be filtered. Filtering a cloudy or hazy wine will almost always
clog the filters prematurely and could burn out a filter's pump.
Generally, fining agents work because they possess one charge (positive or negative) and the cloudiness
is caused by something that possesses the opposite charge. Opposites attract, creating larger (and
heavier) particulates, which fall into the lees. If you use the wrong fining agent, it will repel the
particulate and serve no purpose. Indeed, it could exacerbate the problem.

After the wine is clear, it must be stable before being bottled. Stable means all fermentation has
stopped for good. An unstable wine can resume fermentation in the bottle and lead to disaster -- a
popped cork or exploded bottle.

Any wine that is absolutely bone dry will stabilize itself within a few days to weeks, as no food remains
to keep the yeast alive. For bone dry wines (specific gravity of 0.990 or lower), allow them to sit for 30
days before bottling.

If the wine is not bone dry, it may be cold stabilized at 30-32 degrees F, for 3-4 weeks. This will kill all
popular strains of wine yeast. If you cannot reliably reduce your wine to this temperature range for an
extended period, you can chemically stabilize it.

Potassium sorbate, sold as a chemical or behind a product name such as Sorbistat K, is a commercial
wine stabilizer that should be used in conjunction with Campden or its active ingredient, potassium
metabisulfite. In other words, it works better with sulfites present than without, and it works better than
sulfites alone. Potassium sorbate disrupts the reproductive cycle of yeast. Yeasts present are unable to
reproduce and their population slowly diminishes through attrition.

Potassium sorbate is added in the amount of 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of wine. Sorbic acid results and
stabilizes the wine. Usually the crushed Campden and potassium sorbate are dissolved in a cup or two of
the wine to be stabilized and stirred thoroughly. Allow the stirred wine to sit a few moments and look
for small white lumps of undissolved powder. If present, continue stirring until the wine is clear without
any undissolved lumps. This is then added to the larger batch and stirred in well with a sanitized glass
rod or wooden dowel.

It is not uncommon for wine to absorb carbon dioxide, the gas created as a by-product of fermentation.
This especially tends to occur when fermentation slows to the point that bubbles escape the airlock at a
rate slower than one bubble every 15 minutes. The positive pressure of CO2 in the headspace between
the wine and the airlock bears equally on the wine and the liquid inside the airlock. Some of that CO2 is
simply absorbed into the wine. The result is a wine that fizzes when poured. It may not fizz as much as a
sparkling wine, but it greatly detracts from a wine that is supposed to be a still (nonsparkling) wine.

There are several ways to release this gas and return the wine to a true still wine. The simplest way is to
simply stir the wine with a wooden dowel or a plastic rod. Stir the wine vigorously for about a minute
and then replace the airlock and let the wine settle down for 30-45 minutes. Then repeat the procedure
several times until the wine stops giving up CO2 gas. One may use a plastic rod used to pull curtains
closed. One may heat one end of the rod in boiling water for a few minutes, lay the heated end on a
wooden cutting board, and gently tap it with a wooden mallet to flatten the end of it into a narrow
"paddle" shape. One can sanitizes it and then puts the paddle end into the carboy and attaches the
other end to an electric drill. This is undoubtedly safer than using a wooden dowel because the plastic
cannot absorb bacteria or mold the way the wooden dowel can.

All wines benefit from bulk aging before bottling. The length of time a wine is bulk aged is up to you, but
whites generally should be aged at least six months, Low acid, low tannin reds should be aged for 9-12
months. High acid, high tannin wines should be aged considerably longer. Aging is usually done under
airlock, but long aging can be done in sealed carboys, the seal being provided by a solid bung or tapered
cork.

You may bottle the wine with simple racking tubing. I insert the tubing into the bottle at the depth I wish
the wine to rise to (1-3/4 inches if using 1-1/2-inch corks, 2 inches if using 1-3/4-inch corks. When the
wine rises to that height, I simply lift the bottle above the height of the wine in the secondary. Flow
stops and wine above the end of the tubing is siphoned back into the carboy. There are also valves that
can be fitted to the end of the tubing and used to cut off wine flow at the appropriate time. Finally,
there are bottling wands that fit into the end of the tubing and are inserted into the bottle. They contain
a spring-loaded valve that is opened when the tip is pressed against the bottom of the bottle. When the
bottle is filled to the appropriate height, the wind is merely lifted and flow stops. The choice is yours.
Each method requires a few attempts to become expert at, but there is no rocket science involved and
anyone can quickly master either of the methods.

Newly bottled wine should be stood upright for three days. During this period it is labeled and a
decorative heat-shrink capsule may be fitted over the corked neck. After three days, it is stored on its
side so the cork is fully in contact with the wine.
Bottled wine should be allowed to age in the bottle at least two and preferably three months to recover
from the agitation bottling imposes upon it (so-called "bottle sickness" or "bottling shock") and to
develop a bottle bouquet.
How to Learn About Wine

Even a novice can appreciate a glass of wine , because wine and food are part of our
daily lives. However, the more you know, the more fun it can be. Follow these tips from
David Rosengarten, author of "Red Wine With Fish" and "The Dean and DeLuca
Cookbook."
Difficulty: Easy
Instructions
Things You'll Need:

 Breads
 Cheeses
 Crackers
 Olives
 Wines
 Wine Glasses

Starting Out

Step 1

Keep in mind that wine is for food; that's how it was developed.

Step 2

Enjoy wine, if not with a meal, then with cheese, bread, crackers or olives.

Step 3

Employ the European sensibility when enjoying wine: Don't be intimidated by it.

Step 4

Read about wine so you have an idea of what you're drinking. "The World Atlas of
Wine" is an excellent book for beginners.
Learning More
Step 1

Learn about the chemistry of wine making. Understand wine and analyze it
technically.

Step 2

Subscribe to wine geek newsletters such as the "Wine Spectator" or the "Wine
Advocate."

Step 3

Find a wine columnist or writer with whom your tastes seem to agree.

Step 4

Find a writer whose palate seems to have been "separated at birth" from yours.
Follow that critic.

Step 5

Test the critic's palate against your own by tasting the same wines reviewed.

Step 6

Organize your own wine tastings, both vertical and horizontal.

How to Taste Wine Like a Pro

Taste Wine Like a Pro

The most important aspect of tasting wine is smelling it. Most of "tasting" something is
experiencing its aroma.
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Instructions
Things You'll Need:

 Wines
 Corkscrews
 Wine Glasses

Smelling and Initial Tasting

Step 1

Bring the glass down to a normal level and, while holding the stem, swirl the glass
rapidly. This will increase the surface area of the wine by allowing it to move up the
sides of the glass. This also helps to release the volatile chemicals of the wine into
the air.

Step 2

Stop swirling. Insert your nose into the glass and inhale by taking quick, full sniffs.
Some people prefer to take short sniffs, some prefer to just stick their nose in and
leave it there for a while. Determine any off-odors, identify any grape aroma and
rank the strength of the aroma.

Step 3

Analyze the aroma further. Try to detect the smell of fruity or floral notes. Decide
what they remind you of if possible. Next, note the presence of spices, such as
pepper, anise, cinnamon, vanilla, tea or possibly nuts. Finally, note the presence of
other aromas, such as cedar, oak, dust, moist earth, herbs, chocolate, tobacco,
toastiness, smoke, tar, mushrooms, red meat, grass, hay, or asparagus .

Step 4

Sip a small amount of wine and move it over your entire tongue so that all your taste
buds come in contact with it. The trick to tasting wine is to allow the aromas of the
wine to enter your nasal passageway at the back of your throat. Some people
pucker their lips and suck in a small amount of air through the wine. Others find it
easier to chew the wine as if it were food. Both of these methods will force the
aromas of the wine through the nasal passage and will increase your experience of
the wine.

Step 5

Note how long the flavors remain in your mouth after you've swallowed the wine.
This is called length. Some wines can have up to one minute of length. Also be
 aware of any overbearing presence of alcohol. A wine should have enough balance
that you're barely aware of the alcohol in it.
Judging

Step 1

Look for a very light shade of straw-toned color in white wines such as chardonnay
and white Riesling. For semillon and sauvignon blanc, look for a more definite yellow
color. For sweeter wines, look for a more golden color.

Step 2

Note colors of red wines range from pink to different tones of purple. Rosés are
usually medium pink. A brown tinge in a rosé is usually not desirable. Red wines
range from "medium red" to "high red." A purple could indicate a young wine or a
particular variety of grape.

Step 3

Check for clarity of the wine. Notice if the wine is clear and free of suspended
material - this is termed a brilliant wine. Some descriptions to use include brilliant,
clear, dull, and cloudy. Dull indicates haziness, and cloudy indicates heavy amounts
of suspended material.

Step 4

As a beginner, focus on unwanted smells such as yeast, wood, mold, sulfur dioxide,
oxidation (brackishness), acetic acid (vinegar) and hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg).

Step 5

Taste for sweetness or dryness. An acid bite indicates the vitality of the wine. Taste
for excessive tannins (bitter and rough)and for vinegar flavor, which is usually not
desirable.

Step 6

Note boldness, fullness and richness while tasting. These tend to indicate a wine
with good body.

How to Become a Wine Maker

There are many ways to make a fortune, but buying a winery isn't one of them. Those
who can afford to plunk down several million dollars on a boutique winery may be more
into the bucolic lifestyle and bragging rights than future profits. Buying a winery outright
is the most expensive way to get into the business, but it's also the easiest.
Difficulty: Challenging
Instructions

Step 1

Research what's involved with wine making. The University of California at Davis
has a world-renowned department of viticulture and enology offering programs in all
aspects of the business. Visit www.wineserver.ucdavis.edu for more information.

Step 2

Take stock of your assets and your determination. Producing quality wines year after
year takes expertise in microbiology, agronomy, marketing, enology and machine
repair, or the time and money to hire experts. Wine making is hard work regardless
of whether it turns a profit and requires 100 percent determination and dedication.

Step 3

Choose a location. Wines from states other than California, Oregon and Washington
will be difficult to market. Every wine-growing region has different microclimates
suited to the cultivation of specific varietals. If you favor one type of wine over
another, buy a winery where those grapes grow.

Step 4

Consider buying a winery Down Under. Australia is quickly becoming one of the
world's fastest-growing wine exporters by volume, and Aussie vineyards are dirt
cheap compared with those in California's wine country.

Step 5

Find out if the winery has a strong, popular public identity, up-to-date equipment and
facilities, and established distribution and sales networks. If growth is important,
make sure that the existing facilities have room to expand.

Step 6

Establish an annual output. Most U.S. wineries are small, familyor individually
owned businesses, and produce from 3,000 to 10,000 cases per year. Anything
more and you're leaving boutique territory and venturing into the mass-market
realm.

Step 7
 Retain quality personnel. If the winery is strongly associated with a well-regarded
wine maker, it's important that he or she stay on. Consistency is crucial to a winery's
success.

Step 8

Determine whether you want to cultivate your own grapes or just own a wine-making
facility. In the Napa Valley, an acre of prime vineyard goes for about $64,000 to
$102,000, not including the additional $15,000 to $20,000 to plant, maintain and
harvest each acre. If you don't have the capital to invest in starting an average
boutique vineyard--which won't produce for three years--consider purchasing grapes
from growers. You'll knock five years off getting your brand to market--three for the
vines to bear fruit and two to age your reds.

Step 9

Decide if you want to build a tasting room (or keep an existing one), and who will
manage it while you're away. Direct sales allow you to keep 100 percent profit; sell
through a distributor and your share drops to 50 percent.

How to Make Red Wine From Fresh Grapes

People spend lifetimes perfecting the science of making wine. Here is an overview of
the basic steps involved. Equipment and materials needed for this procedure can be
rented or bought at a winemaking supply shop.
Difficulty: Moderate
Instructions
Things You'll Need:

 granulated sugars (sucrose) or corn sugar (dextrose)

 wines yeast
 fining materials materials
 siphon hoses
 fermentation locks
 hydrometer
 acid-testing kits
 plastic bucket for mixing
 glass gallon jugs or barrels for fermenting
 vinifera red grapes
 sulphite crystals
 grape crushers
 grape press
 Fermentation Locks
 Fining Materials Materials
 Grape Crushers
 Grape Press
 Sulphite Crystals
 Hydrometer
 Siphon Hoses
 Granulated Sugars (sucrose) Or Corn Sugar (dextrose)
 Vinifera Red Grapes
 Wines Yeast
 Glass Gallon Jugs Or Barrels For Fermenting
 Acid-testing Kits
 Plastic Bucket For Mixing

Before Fermentation

Step 1

Crush grapes into primary fermentor. Fill fermentor only 2/3 full.

Step 2

Remove up to 80 percent of stems.

Step 3

Add sulfite crystals to fermentor. Use about .1 gram of sulfite powder per liter or 1
campden tablet per 10 liters. Dissolve into 1 cup of warm water and stir into
fermentor using a wooden or plastic spoon.

Step 4

After adding sulfite, let the crushed grapes, or "must," sit for 2 hours.

Step 5
 Check Brix (a measure of sugar content) of juice. It should be around 22 to 24
degrees, depending on varietal. (See "How to Monitor Brix of Fermenting Wine
Must" in related eHows.)

Step 6

If Brix is lower than 21 degrees, add sugar to juice.

Step 7

Check and adjust acid level of juice, using an acid-testing kit found at a winemaking
shop. Acid content should be about 5.5 to 6.5 g/liter.

Step 8

Check temperature of must and adjust if necessary. Temperature should be 70 to 75

degrees F (21 to 23 degrees C). Raise temperature by placing a heating pad
underneath the fermentor or applying a heating belt. One way to lower temperature
is to place a heavy object into a large freezer bag. Add ice to the bag, tie the bag
securely and lower into the fermentor. Monitor the temperature for changes and
remove the heating or cooling element when the proper temperature has been
reached.

Step 9

When the proper Brix, acid level, and temperature are reached, dissolve 1 gram
yeast pellets in 1 cup of warm water for every 3.8 liters of must. Let yeast solution sit
for 10 minutes, then add to fermenter.

Step 10

Cover fermenter with cheesecloth.

Fermentation

Step 1

Check after 24 hours. Bubbles and gurgling noises indicate fermentation is taking
place. As fermentation takes place, the temperature will rise, which is acceptable.

Step 2
 Stir twice daily to keep the "cap" wet. The cap is the top layer of seeds and grape
skins.

Step 3

Check Brix daily. There should be an average drop of about 2 degrees in Brix.

Step 4

When the cap stops pushing up to the top or when Brix is around 0 degrees, press
the wine into gallon jugs and attach a fermentation lock. Save the cap material (pulp)
to top up after initial racking.

Step 5

When sediment drops out, rack and top up with pulp. Add sulfite. (See "How to Rack
Wine" in related eHows.)

Step 6

Add fining material right after racking, or later, when wine is clear. (See "How to Add
Fining Material to Wine" in related eHows.)

Step 7

After sediment drops out, rack and add sulfite crystals. Continue racking as
necessary when sediment drops out.

Step 8

Depending on varietal, age for appropriate amount of time.

Step 9

Bottle. (See "How to Bottle Wine" for details.)

Step 10

Depending on varietal, bottle age for the appropriate amount of time.

How to Choose Grapes and Concentrates for Home Wine Making

Grapes are grown in most states and can be purchased fresh from a wine grape
vendor. However, you will most likely have to go pick them up yourself. Grapes can be
shipped frozen as juice or pre-crushed as must, but not many vendors supply grapes
this way. Wine can also be made from grape juice concentrate and from fresh fruits
such as apricots, blackberries and peaches.
Difficulty: Easy
Instructions
Things You'll Need:

 Winemaking Equipment
 Juice Concentrates
 Wine Grapes

Step 1

Use cabernet sauvignon if you want to produce a hearty, pleasant and bold red wine
. Its peak flavor is attained after one to three years of aging in the cask and four
years in the bottle.

Step 2

Use pinot noir blended with petite sirah to attain a rich and complex red wine. Allow
it to age for three to six years.

Step 3

Use chenin blanc to make a fruity and sweet white wine . It does not age well, so
drink it within one or two years.

Step 4

Choose among cabernet sauvignon, gamay beaujolais, merlot, pinot noir, petite
sirah and zinfandel to produce a fine red wine of rich quality.

Step 5

Choose among chardonnay, pinot blanc, sauvignon blanc, semillon and white
riesling to produce a fine white wine of high quality.

Step 6

When buying red grape juice concentrate, be sure it is blue-red in color. If it's brown,
don't purchase it.

Step 7

When buying white grape juice concentrate, be sure it is very pale gold in color.
How to Monitor the Brix of Fermenting Wine Must

Brix is a measurement of the amount of sugar in a liquid. The sugar converts to alcohol
during fermentation. As Brix numbers decrease, the amount of alcohol in the liquid
increases. Measure Brix with a device called a hydrometer.
Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions
Things You'll Need:

 Hydrometer And Testing Jar

 Fermenting Wines
 Granulated Sugars
 Thermometers
 Record Logs And Pencil
 Thermometers

Measuring Brix

Step 1

Be sure the hydrometer is clean and free of oils from your fingers.

Step 2

Fill 3/4 of a graduated cylinder or testing jar with juice. Avoid including seeds, stems,
skins and bits of fruit in the sample.

Step 3

Check the temperature of juice with a thermometer and note it.

Step 4

With the bulb end first, place the hydrometer into the juice and give it a gentle spin
with your fingers.

Step 5
 After about 5 to 10 seconds, at eye level, inspect the location of the bottom portion
of the meniscus against the hydrometer. (The meniscus is very top of a column of
liquid; when seen in a clear container, it almost looks like a thin lid.)

Step 6

Record the number on the hydrometer that coincides with the lowest portion of the
meniscus.
Adjusting Sugar Level in Liquid

Step 1

To increase Brix by 2 degrees, add 3 1/2 ounces of standard granulated sugar

(sucrose) to 1 gallon of juice.

Step 2

Add water to sugar to create sugar syrup.

Step 3

Add sugar syrup to must (juice with seeds and skins) in small amounts. Stir
thoroughly.

Step 4

Check the Brix and add more sugar to raise the level.

Step 5

To decrease the Brix, add water, in small amounts, to dilute the must, or add low-
sugar grapes. If you add water, check the acid level and make the necessary
adjustments.

How to Add Fining Material to Wine

Fining material is used to remove yeast, bacteria and other substances suspended in
wine. If you buy a wine-making kit from a wine-making supply shop, it should include
fining materials and directions. Follow the instructions below when using gelatin as a
fining material.
Difficulty: Easy
Instructions
Things You'll Need:
 Tannins
 Discount Groceries
 Gelatin Fining Materials

Step 1

Before adding fining material, add 1 1/4 tsp. tannin for every 5 gallons of wine. Stir
and let sit for 24 hours.

Step 2

Add 1 tsp. gelatin fining material to 1/2 c. cold water and let soak for 1 hour.

Step 3

Stir vigorously.

Step 4

Bring to a boil, either on the stove or in a microwave, then remove from heat.

Step 5

Stir into wine and let stand for 10 to 15 days.

Step 6

Rack the wine to remove the sediment at the bottom. (See "How to Rack Wine" in
the Related eHows.)

How to Rack Wine

"Racking" wine is the process of separating wine from its sediment, or lees, and
transferring the wine into another container using a siphon.
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Instructions
Things You'll Need:

 Clamps For Wine Bottling

 Clean Containers Such As Gallon Jugs Or Barrels
 Siphon Hoses

Step 1

Place the container of wine on a table.

Step 2

Place an empty container below the table, such as on the floor or on a lower table.

Step 3

Place the notched end of the siphon tube into the container of wine. Be sure the
tube is in the wine but does not touch the layer of sediment. (The sediment should
be at the bottom of the container.)

Step 4

Suck on the other end of the tube until wine begins to flow.

Step 5

When the wine begins to flow, insert the tube into the lower container.

Step 6

Fill the container.

Step 7

When the container is full, or if sediment starts to travel with the wine, stop the flow
by holding the hose in a downward position and pinching a section of it. Clamp if
necessary.

How to Bottle Wine

Once your wine is fermented and racked (cleared of sediment) to your satisfaction, it's
time to bottle it.
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Instructions
Things You'll Need:

 Clamps For Wine Bottling

 Siphon Hoses
 New Or Used Wine Bottles
 Corks
 Corking Machines

Step 1
 If the bottles are new and unused, rinse them with hot water and dry them. If the
bottles are used, soak them in a cleaning solution recommended by a wine-making
supply shop. Then rinse them with water and dry. Be sure the bottles are completely
dry.

Step 2

Prepare new corks by soaking them in water for 1 to 2 hours, then rinsing them
several times with warm water.

Step 3

Prepare used corks by soaking, boiling gently, then rinsing with hot water. Finish
with a cold-water rinse.

Step 4

Place the bottles below the wine container.

Step 5

Insert the notched end of the siphon tube into the container of wine. Be sure the
tube isn't touching the bottom of the container.

Step 6

Suck on the other end of the tube until the wine begins to flow. Then insert the tube
into a bottle.

Step 7

Fill up bottles to 3/4 inch below the bottom of the cork.

Step 8

Use a corking machine to insert the corks into the bottles. Corking machines can be
rented from wine-making supply shops.
How to Make White Wine From Fresh Grapes
While red wines are fermented with the skins and seeds of grapes, white wines are
fermented from the clear grape juice. These guidelines are for the novice winemaker.
You can buy or rent the equipment at a winemaking supply shop.
Difficulty: Moderate
Instructions
Things You'll Need:

 fermentation locks
 plastic bucket
 sulphite crystals
 wine yeast
 wine grapes
 glass wine fermentors
 acid-testing kits for wine
 Fermentation Locks
 Glass Wine Fermentors
 Sulphite Crystals
 Wine Grapes
 Wine Yeast
 Acid-testing Kits For Wine
 Plastic Bucket
 Plastic Bucket

Before Fermentation

Step 1

Crush grapes and remove stems.

Step 2

Press into plastic buckets, discarding the pulp and skins (pomace). You should have
clear juice left.

Step 3

Add sulfite crystals. Use about 0.1 gram of sulfite powder per liter or 1 campden
tablet per 10 liters. Dissolve into 1 cup warm water and stir into juice using a wooden
or plastic spoon.

Step 4
 Check Brix of juice. It should be around 22 to 24 degrees, depending on varietal.

Step 5

If Brix is lower than 21 degrees, add sugar to juice. (See "How to Monitor Brix of
Fermenting Wine Must.")

Step 6

Check and adjust acid level of juice using an acid-testing kit supplied by winemaking
shops. Acid content should be at about 6.5 to 7.5 g/liter.

Step 7

Check temperature of juice and adjust if necessary. Temperature should be between

55 and 65 degrees F. Monitor temperature. It is absolutely necessary that the
temperature be lower than 60 degrees F throughout entire process, including
fermentation.

Step 8

Transfer juice to glass fermentors and fill only 2/3 full. Attach a fermentation lock.

Step 9

Let sit 24 hours.

Step 10

After 24 hours, add 1 gram yeast pellets dissolved in 1 cup warm water for every 3.8
liters of juice. Let yeast solution sit for 10 minutes before adding to fermentor. Attach
fermentation lock.
Fermentation

Step 1

Check Brix twice daily.

Step 2

Check temperature twice daily. Remember that the temperature must stay at or
below 60 degrees F.

Step 3
 When Brix reaches 0 and the fermentation is complete, leave fermentation lock
attached and let sediment settle out.

Step 4

When sediment has settled, rack, or siphon off the sediment from the clear wine,
into clean, glass containers. Containers should be completely filled. (See "How to
Rack Wine.")

Step 5

Add sulfite. Fit with a fermentation lock. Keep temperature at or below 60 degrees F.

Step 6

Rack each time sediment settles out, usually at intervals of three to six week.

Step 7

Add fining materials to wine. (See "How to Add Fining Materials to Wine" for
instructions.)

Step 8

When sediment has settled, rack and add sulfite.

Step 9

Depending on varietal, let age for the appropriate amount of time.

Step 10

Bottle. (See "How to Bottle Wine.")

Step 11

Let wine bottle age for appropriate amount of time.

Read more: How to Make White Wine From Fresh Grapes | eHow.com
http://www.ehow.com/how_1607_legally-adopt-foreign.html#ixzz0wNZZyAQd
How to Organize Your Wine Collection
Cheaper by the dozen doesn't just apply to doughnuts. If you buy wine
by the case, you need to store it--and if you do it right you'll have
fine-tasting wines to enjoy for years to come. Many white wines can
be stored from two to five years, while red wines will last--and generally
improve--for five to 20 years, sometimes longer.
From Quick Guide: Wine Clubs

Storing Wine

How to properly store wine; learn more about wine in this free instructional video.
… More

How to Store Wine

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instructional video.… More

How to Find the Right Wine Rack for You

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need a place to store… More


How to Keep Wine From Going Bad

Wine is a complex, ever evolving beverage. If not treated with care, it can spoil
very easily. There are… More

How to Convert a Bedroom Closet into Wine Storage

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closet into wine storage.… More

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enthusiasts can benefit from a… More
 

How to Organize Your Wine Collection

Cheaper by the dozen doesn't just apply to doughnuts. If you buy wine by the
case, you need to store… More

More: See All Articles in this Quick Guide

Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Instructions

Step 1

Keep the temperature of your wine closet, refrigerator or cellar between 50 and 65
degrees F (10 and 18 C) for red wines, 45 to 60 degrees F (7 to 15 C) for whites, or
as directed by a vintner or wine merchant. Store your white wines closer to the floor
and reds higher up. Cooler temperatures generally won't harm wines, but can delay
their development.

Step 2

Maintain a relative humidity in your cellar or storage area of about 70 percent for
cork health.

Step 3

Store bottles on their sides so that the corks stay in contact with the wine. Keep the
area dark, if possible, but definitely out of direct sunlight. Use incandescent lights:
Fluorescent bulbs give off more ultraviolet light, which can penetrate bottles.

Step 4

Use untreated redwood for storage bins or racks. It won't deteriorate in cool, humid
wine-cellar conditions.
Step 5

Hang identifying tags on the necks so the bottles don't need to be disturbed when
you want to know what bottle is what. Keep bottles of the same vintage together as
much as possible.

Step 6

Use many small bins rather than a few large ones. Racks that hold individual bottles
are ideal.

Step 7

Think strategically when you arrange your cellar. Keep the more frequently used
wines by the door, and the long-term investments in the cooler, darker corners.

Step 8

Know what you own and be able to find it quickly. Make a database of your cellar's
inventory. Give each wine a location number and listing, including the wine's name,
vintage, producer, appellation, vineyard name, region, county, type (red, white,
rose', sparkling), quantity owned, price paid per bottle, value (at latest estimate) and
size of bottle (half-bottle, magnum). Add tasting and pairing notes, and keep the file
outside of the cellar so you don't have to disturb the bottles to check.

Step 9

Store wine in the garage if where you live doesn't get beastly hot in the summer.
Garages tend to be cool, dark and free of ultraviolet light--ideal for wine. See 90
Organize the Garage.

Step 10

Get a freestanding wine refrigerator if your house doesn't have a basement, an

appropriate cellar or a garage. A wine refrigerator will hold between 24 and 200
bottles under ideal conditions.
How to Collect Wine

Wine collecting is fun and challenging and affords you the chance to explore new parts
of the world - in person or in taste only! Take the plunge!
From Quick Guide: A Wine Enthusiast's Guide

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different scales,… More


Merlot Wine Guide

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has been made for over… More

Guide to French Wine

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wine. For thousands of… More

The Eco Friendly Guide to Italian Wine

 Italy, much like its neighbor France, produces a wide variety of wines, though it is
probably best known… More

Filtering Wine in Wine Making

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Bottling Wine

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more about wine in this free… More

How to Cook With Wine

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"Taste" and "The Dean &… More


About Wine Labels

A wine label is our first impression of a wine. These labels give us valuable
information about the wine… More

A Brief History of Wine

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instructional video.… More

How to Use a Wine Prism

You probably know that allowing wine to "breathe" intensifies its flavor. That's
because the chemical… More


Does Wine Need to Be Refrigerated?

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answered than others.… More

How to Keep a Wine Journal

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parts of the world - in… More
 

How to Become a Director of Wine

The director of wine at a restaurant, also called a sommelier, is the person who
chooses wines for the… More
More: See All Articles in this Quick Guide
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Instructions
Things You'll Need:

 Wine Racks
 Wine Glasses
 Wine Bottle Openers
 Wine Refrigerators
 Wine - Red
 Wine - White
 Wine Spectator Subscription
 Room Thermometers

Step 1

Start by finding a place to store your wine. There's no point in spending money on a
collection unless you have a cool, dark place to store it.

Step 2

Identify your interests. Do you want to collect reds, whites or both? Do you want to
collect U.S. wines, international vintages or both? Create a "collecting plan" to help
keep yourself focused.

Step 3

Educate yourself. Subscribe to winery and specialty magazines and newsletters.

Join local wine clubs and get to know local experts and wine merchants.
Step 4

Consider joining "wine of the month" clubs. These are good ways to try wines you
might not taste otherwise.

Step 5

Attend local wine-tasting events and talk with other collectors to identify potential
new wines.

Step 6

Try only similar varieties when tasting wines in preparation for aging. You'll get a lot
more out of a wine-tasting that focuses on one variety, say Sangiovese, than a wide
selection of varieties.

Step 7

Identify flavor characteristics and distinguish between vintages when tasting the
single wine variety.

Step 8

Wait until you know what you like and that you like the specific wine before buying in
bulk.

Step 9

Buy magnums for storage. They age well; since there is only one cork and the total
bottle surface area is smaller for the volume of wine, there is less exposure to air
and light.

Step 10

Let merchants know what you are interested in and ask them to contact you if your
requested wines become available.

Step 11

Consider buying "wine futures," which can guarantee you access to some good
international wines.

Step 12

Visit a wine region for the day, a weekend or vacation. Schedule tastings at as many
wineries as possible, and enjoy!