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DOI: 10.1111/cote.

12465

EDITORIAL

ICONTEX and ICONWOOLF 2019 Special Issue

As a result of the growing numbers of conferences within an alternative solution to traditional mordanting in wool
various fields, their respective organisers seek ways in which dyeing processes with natural dyes. Another sustainable ap-
to both improve the quality of the events and to raise aware- proach was taken by Aminoddin Haji from Yazd University,
ness of them within the scientific world. A good avenue to Iran.2 In his paper, he establishes the optimum processing
achieve this is to publish selected papers in a special issue conditions (oxygen plasma treatment, alum concentration,
of a high-quality journal, providing a clear and indisputable dyebath temperature and pH) for wool dyeing with three nat-
indication of the success of the related conference. In this ural dyes extracted from Arnebia euchroma, cotton pods and
sense, I am honoured to be a part of such a success by intro- harmal seeds by using a response surface methodology and a
ducing this Special Issue of Coloration Technology, which D-optimal design.
includes selected papers presented at two combined con- Martinia Glogar and her colleagues from the University
ferences, the International Congress of Innovative Textiles of Zagreb, Croatia, evaluate the suitability of screen print-
(ICONTEX 2019) and the International Congress on Wool ing of alpaca woollen hand-knitted samples with natural dye
and Luxury Fibres (ICONWOOLF 2019), which were held, extracted from green walnut shells by using iron(II) sulphate
respectively, on 17-18 April and 19 April, 2019, in Tekirdağ, as a mordant.3 Their results show that natural herbal dyes ex-
Turkey. ICONWOOLF 2019 was of special note because it tracted from green walnut shells can be used for alpaca knit-
was one of the few congresses in the world (and the first such wear printing with satisfactory fastness properties.
conference in Turkey) that was devoted to the field of wool Fazlıhan Yılmaz and co-workers from Erciyes University,
and luxury fibres. Both events were hosted by the Textile Turkey, discuss the effects of finishing of coloured wool fi-
Engineering Department of the Çorlu Faculty of Engineering bres with zinc chloride and garlic stem extracts.4 It was ob-
at Namık Kemal University. The Çorlu region is famed for its served that both treatments change the original colours of the
many sunflower fields, which extend for many kilometres. wools only slightly. However, the use of garlic stem extracts
The cover of this Special Issue thus sports a close-up photo- is shown to have limited antibacterial properties.
graph of a sunflower. The exploitation of natural auxiliaries in wool dyeing
I am pleased to present 10 papers from these conferences. is interesting as a topic because it has the potential to save
These include seven papers on pretreatment, dyeing and energy by reducing both the processing time and tempera-
printing of wool that consider sustainability, one on ecolog- ture used. Gökhan Erkan and colleagues from Dokuz Eylül
ical antifouling paint for fishing nets, one on e-textiles fea- University, Turkey, study the application of liposomes in the
turing conductive inks, and one on structural coloration of dyeing of wool/mohair fibres with acid dyes.5 In their paper,
textiles through the application of nanoparticles. liposomes are prepared with soybean lecithin and cholesterol
Nowadays, wet processing of textiles with natural com- according to the thin lipid layer method. Liposome usage
pounds has gained increased attention due to various en- provides darker shades showing more uniform and homoge-
vironmental and health problems related with the use of neous dyeings than conventionally dyed samples. In addition,
synthetic reagents. One of the papers adopting this angle better light and wash fastness values are obtained along with
of sustainability describes a study by Jelena Peran and her less chemical damage to the fibres.
colleagues from the University of Zagreb, Croatia.1 The au- Sustainability covers not only the use of natural chemi-
thors demonstrate the positive effects of low-pressure oxygen cals but also novel synthesis strategies for dyestuffs with
plasma pretreatments on the dyeing of wool fabric with ex- enhanced properties. This Special Issue includes two papers
tract of pomegranate peel. Samples subjected to the plasma on this subject co-authored by Saira Faisal from Nadirshaw
pretreatment benefit from significant improvements in ten- Eduljee Dinshaw University of Engineering and Technology,
sile strength, wicking ability and colour yield, even when re- Pakistan. The first paper deals with microwave-enhanced
placing certain mordants in the wool dyeing process with the synthesis of a trichloropyrimidine reactive dye, drawn from a
pomegranate dye. All of the samples simultaneously exhibit class of colorants that show promise for reactive inks, and its
good antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus  aureus application on wool fabrics through an ink-jet printing tech-
and Klebsiella pneumoniae. Therefore, the study represents nique.6 The results suggest that microwave-assisted synthesis

Coloration Technology. 2020;136:99–100. wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/cote © 2020 Society of Dyers and Colourists    99 |


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100      EDITORIAL

of the pyrimidine-based reactive dye furnishes higher yields Finally, I would like to express my sincere thanks to the
within shorter reaction times. The prints possessed excellent chairpersons of ICONWOOLF and ICONTEX conferences,
light and wash fastness properties. The second paper de- Prof. Dr Fatma Göktepe and Prof. Dr Rıza Atav, the Editor-
scribes the synthesis and evaluation of a bifunctional reactive in-Chief of Coloration Technology, Dr Andrew Towns, and
dye based on a triazine reactive system.7 It exhibits superior the journal's Editorial Board, for their kind support. I hope
performance in terms of stability in water-based ink-jet for- that you find the articles in this Special Issue useful and that
mulations, dye fixation, colour strength and fastness proper- readers working in academia, public institutions and industry
ties due to its medium reactivity when applied to wool fabric take inspiration from them.
by ink-jet printing.
Another study, which aimed to find an ecological antifoul- İlhan Özen Prof. Dr., Guest Editor
ing paint for fishing nets, comes from Dokuz Eylül University,
Turkey, reported by Korhan Şen and his colleagues.8 In this Textile Engineering Department, Erciyes University,
paper, polyamide samples were treated with commercial anti- Kayseri, Turkey
fouling paints both with and without copper as biocide before Email: iozen@erciyes.edu.tr
being immersed in the marine environment close to an aqua-
culture. After 6 months, less fouling had occurred in the poly- R E F E R E NC E S
amide nets treated with copper-free antifouling paint and the 1. Peran J, Ražića SE, Sutlovića A, Ivanković T, Glogar MI. Oxygen
mesh openings were still clear. This study provides insight into plasma pretreatment improves dyeing and antimicrobial properties
innovation for producers aiming for sustainable aquaculture. of wool fabric dyed with natural extract from pomegranate peel.
Color Technol. 2020;136:177–187.
The final two papers have totally different approaches
2. Haji A. Application of D-optimal design in the analysis and mod-
and goals, although they are linked in that each comes from
elling of dyeing of plasma-treated wool with three natural dyes.
researchers at the University of Minho in Portugal who are Color Technol. 2020;136:137–146.
exploring topical means of producing functional or coloured 3. Glogar M, Tancik J, Brlek I, Sutlovic A, Tkalec M. Optimisation of
textiles. In the first paper, Pedro Gomes and colleagues in- process parameters of Alpaca wool printing with natural dye. Color
vestigate the behaviour of conductive inks applied on differ- Technol. 2020;136:188–201.
ent textile substrates treated and untreated with atmospheric 4. Yılmaz F, Aydınlıoğlu Ö, Benli H, Kahraman G, Bahtiyari Mİ.
plasma.9 Here, the method of choice for application of the Treatment of originally coloured wools with garlic stem extracts
and zinc chloride to ensure anti-bacterial properties with limited
conductive inks is conventional screen printing. This study
colour changes. Color Technol. 2020;136:147–152.
shows that it is possible to create conductive connections in
5. Kartal GE, Avcı BB, Erkan G, Sarıışık M. The effect of liposome
textile fabrics with conventional screen printing and that the on dyeing mohair/wool. Color Technol. 2020;136:167–176.
best results are obtained with cotton fibres. The application 6. Faisal S, Lin L. Green synthesis of reactive dye for ink-jet printing.
of plasma treatment enables lower values of rigidity in the Color Technol. 2020;136:110–119.
samples after the washing procedures but does not have a 7. Faisal S, Lin L, Clarke M. Synthesis, stability and printing prop-
positive effect on conductivity. erties of a novel 2-sulphophenoxy-4-chloro-s-triazine reactive dye
The second of these papers, by Rui Fernandes et al, explores for ink-jet printing of wool. Color Technol. 2020;136:153–166.
8. Şen K, Erdoğan UH, Cavas L. Prevention of biofouling on aqua-
the structural coloration of textiles by using monodisperse
culture nets with eco-friendly antifouling paint formulation. Color
latex nanospheres.10 In this context, poly(styrene-co-methyl Technol. 2020;136:120–129.
methacrylate-co-acrylic acid) nanospheres of different sizes 9. Gomes P, Tama D, Carvalho H, Souto AP. Resistance variation of
are synthesised by soap-free emulsion copolymerisation and conductive ink applied by the screen printing technique on differ-
applied onto polyamide 6,6 fabrics by gravitational sedi- ent substrates. Color Technol. 2020;136:130–136.
mentation and dip-drawing techniques. Different colours are 10. Fernandes RDV, Gomes P, Zille A, Souto AP. The influence of
observed according to particle size. Iridescence is also en- chemical reaction conditions upon poly(styrene-methyl methacry-
late-acrylic acid) synthesis: Variations in nanoparticle size, colour
countered, in which the fabric displays different colours at
and deposition methods. Color Technol. 2020;136:101–109.
different observation angles.

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