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COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIAL

Sector: CONSTRUCTION

Qualification Title: CARPENTRY NC III

Unit of Competency: INSTALL BUILT-IN AND/OR PRE-FABRICATED


CABINETS
Module Title: INSTALLING BUILT-IN AND/OR PRE-FABRICATED
CABINETS

Technical Education and Skills Development Authority Jacobo Z. Gonzales Memorial


School of Arts and Trades San Antonio, Biñan City

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
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HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY BASED
LEARNING MATERIAL

Welcome to the module in Developing Competency-Based Learning


Materials. This module contains training materials and activities for you to complete.

You are required to go through a series of learning activities in order to


complete each learning outcome of the module. In each learning outcome are
Information Sheets, Self-Checks, Operation Sheets and Job Sheets. Follow these
activities on your own. If you have questions, don't hesitate to ask your facilitator for
assistance.
The goal of this course is the development of practical skills. To gain these
skills, you must leam basic concepts and terminology. For the most part, you'll get
this information from the Information Sheets and TESDA Website,
www.tesda.gov.ph
This module was prepared to help you achieve the required
competency, in "Developing Competency-Based Learning Materials".
This will be the source of information for you to acquire knowledge and
skills in this particular competency independently and at your own pace, with
minimum supervision or help from your instructor.
Remember to:
Work through all the information and complete the activities in each section.

Read information sheets and complete the self-check. Suggested


references are included to supplement the materials provided in this module.

Most probably your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager.


He/she is there to support you and show you the correct way to do things.
You will be given plenty of opportunity to ask questions and practice on the
job. Make sure you practice your new skills during regular work shifts. This way you
will improve both your speed and memory and also your confidence.

Use the Self-checks, Operation Sheets or Job Sheets at the end of each
section to test your own progress.
When you feel confident that you have had sufficient practice, ask your
Trainer to evaluate you. The results of your assessment will be recorded in your
Progress Chart and Accomplishment Chart.
You need to complete this module before developing the CBLM of the
Learning Outcomes assigned to you.
Date Document No.
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MODULE CONTENT

UNIT OF COMPETENCY :INSTALL BUILT-IN/PRE-FABRICATED


CABINETS
MODULE TITLE :INSTALLING BUILT-IN/PRE-

FABRICATED CABINETS
MODULE DESCRIPTOR : This module covers the knowledge, skills

and attitude in preparing materials, tools


and equipment for installing built-in and/or
pre-fabricated cabinets,
fabricating/assembling built-in cabinet
components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet,
assembling and installing built-in and pre-
fabricate cabinet components.
NOMINAL DURATION : 40 hrs.

CERTIFICATE LEVEL : NC III

PREREQUISITE :

LEARNING OUTCOMES:

Upon completion of this module, the trainee/student must be able to:

Prepare materials, tools and equipment for installing built-in and/or pre-fabricated
cabinets;
Fabricate/assemble built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet ;
and,
Assemble and install built-in and pre-fabricate cabinet components.

Date Document No.


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ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

· Plans and details are correctly identified and interpreted


according to job requirements
· Materials, tools and equipment are identified and prepared
consistent with job requirements
· Materials are re-checked for correct specifications to ensure that they are
free from defects; otherwise defects are reported to immediate supervisor
for appropriate action
· Unexpected situations are dealt with according to company rules and
regulations
· Appropriate PPE is selected according to safety standards and
regulations
· Cabinet location is identified from working drawings and
specifications
· Cabinet components are fabricated and/or pre-fabricated cabinets are
prepared/assembled according to working drawings and specifications

· Unexpected situation are dealt with in accordance with company rules and
regulations
· Housekeeping is performed according to safety regulations
· Appropriate PPE is used according to job requirements and safety
regulations
· Built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet assembly are
set-out in accordance with working drawings and specifications

· Built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet assembly are


installed in accordance with working drawings and specifications

· Finishing hardwares are installed as per working drawings


· Unexpected situation are dealt with in accordance with company rules and
regulations
· Housekeeping is performed according to safety regulations
· Appropriate PPE is used according to job requirements and safety
regulations

Date Document No.


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LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 1 Prepare materials, tools and
equipment for installing built-in
and/or pre-fabricated cabinets
CONTENTS:
• Millwork Drawing
• Materials and specification
• Different types of wood defects
• Classification of hand tools & equipment and their uses

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA
1. Plans and details are correctly identified and interpreted
according to job requirements
2. Materials, tools and equipment are identified and prepared
consistent with job requirements
3. Materials are re-checked for correct specifications to ensure that they are
free from defects; otherwise defects are reported to immediate supervisor
for appropriate action
4. Unexpected situations are dealt with according to company rules and
regulations
5. Appropriate PPE is selected according to safety standards and regulations

CONDITIONS:
You must be provided with the
following:
• WORKPLACE LOCATION
• TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT • Hand Saw
• Hammer • Chalk Line
• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• TRAINING MATERIALS
· Leaning Packages
· Bond paper
· Ball pens
· Manuals
· Related References

ASSESSMENT METHOD

· Portfolio

Date Document No.


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Learning Experience
PREPARE MATERIALS, TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT FOR
INSTALLING BUILT-IN AND/OR PRE-FABRICATED CABINETS
Learning Activities Special Instructions
1. Read Information Sheet
No. 4.1-1 on Millwork
2. Answer Self-Check No. Compare your answer to the answer key
4.1-1
3. Read Information Sheet No.
4.1-2 on Materials and
Specifications
4. Answer Self-Check No. Compare your answer to the answer key
4.1-2
5. Perform Operation Evaluate your own work using the Sheet No. 4.1-2 on Re-
Performance Criteria
checking Material for Present your work to your trainer for
correct specifications evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the next
activities
6. Read Information Sheet No.
4.1-3 on Different Types of
Wood Defects
7. Answer Self-Check No. Compare your answer to the answer key 4.1-3

8. Perform Operation Evaluate your own work using the Sheet No. 4.1-3 on
Types Performance Criteria
of Defects Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the next
activities
9. Read Information Sheet
No. 4.1-4 on
Classification of Hand
Tools & Equipment and
their Uses
10. Answer Self-Check Compare your answer to the answer key No. 4.1-4

Date Document No.


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INFORMATION SHEET 4.1-1
MILLWORK DRAWINGS

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be


able to IDENTIFY PLANS AND WORKING DRAWINGS

The term millwork refers to custom; shop-built, wood components designed


for interior finish construction. It is typical to both residential and commercial work.
The project interior designer or architect designs and then produces the drawings for
such items. They are included in the set of construction drawings for the job.

Each item designed for a project is detailed. A plan view, a front elevation
(view), rear elevation, side elevations, sections and enlarged details explain the
design. Dimensions and notes are added to describe construction and finishes.

Figure 1. Millwork drawing

Some project only requires a few fixtures. The detailing of these will often be
incorporated into other pages of the construction drawings. Trim is shown on interior
wall elevations with the desired profile provided. A floor fixture might be detailed on
the same page as the plan or on another drawing.

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Projects, which involve many items, will require several pages to cover them
all. These drawings pages are usually grouped together and included at the end of
the architectural set of drawings.
Drawing notes and finish schedules provide specify the type, solid or plywood
veneer, maple, pine, oak, etc. and the finish.
The following is an example of a millwork drawing. The drawing has been
reduced to fit on this page. It is only to provide an overview, not to shown any
specific information.

Figure 2. Millwork drawing with finish schedule

Some typical notes on a millwork drawing are:


1. 3/ 4” thick plywood gable with p. lam. finish (symbol) applied to all surfaces
and edges
2. 3/4” thick melamine (symbol) adjustable shelves with matching finish applied
to all edges
3. metal pilaster strips c/w metal shelf clips (4) per shelf 3/4” thick plywood door
with p. lam. finish (symbol) c/w concealed hinges and 3” satin chrome ‘D’ pull

4. 3/4” thick oak veneer plywood end gable (symbol)


Date Document No.
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5. Shop drawings must be provided for approval by the designer prior to
manufacturing

The symbol shown in the notes above represents where a finish symbol is
placed. These finish symbols such, as “PL-1” in a rectangle is a reference. A
specification is listed for each in a Finish Schedule. The specification is by
manufacturer, model number, color, size, etc, or as required to describe the item.

Date Document No.


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SELF-CHECK NO. 4.1-1

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________


IDENTIFICATION. Study the drawing of a built-in cabinet illustrated below. Identify
what is being ask from the drawing by writing your answer on the space provided.

1. Maximum height of the


countertop in millimeter

2. Height of utility outlet from


center line

3. Width of adjustable countertop


from back of knee space in millimeter

4. Material used in frame (typical


section)

5. Backsplash height in milimeter


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ANSWER KEY NO. 4.1-1

Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer
back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect.

1. Maximum height of the 940 mm


countertop in millimeter

2. Height of utility outlet from 4 inches


center line

3. Width of adjustable countertop 555 mm


from back of knee space in
millimeter

4. Material used in frame (typical Steel tubular frame


section)

5. Backsplash height in milimeter 175 mm

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INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.1-2
MATERIALS AND SPECIFICATION

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be


able to IDENTIFY MATERIALS CONSISTENT TO JOB REQUIREMENTS.

INTRODUCTION

In cabinetmaking, those characteristics of wood with which we are concerned


differ somewhat from those characteristics of wood with which we are concerned
when we are dealing with frame construction. For example, in cabinetmaking, beauty
and finishing qualities are the determining factors rather than strength.

Many beautiful hardwoods are strong. Being strong and naturally beautiful,
they are favored for cabinetwork.
In this section you will learn the types of wood used in cabinetwork and the
characteristics of each type. After studying these characteristics, you should be able
to identify and select the proper wood for a particular job. The most desirable woods
for cabinetwork should:
• Have the ability to keep their shape without shrinking, warping, or
swelling.
• Be easily workable with tools and machinery without causing rough
surfaces
• Be strong, with suitable grain characteristics that are pleasing to the eye

CLASSIFICATION OF LUMBER

Softwoods
Many softwoods are used in cabinetmaking. Among these, white pine is one
of the most useful of all. It is also easy to work, because it has a uniform grain and
holds its shape well. White pine is soft, light, and of medium strength. It splits easily
but holds nails fairly well. It also takes glue well. The grain is not prominent;
therefore, it has no particular beauty. For this reason, coupled with its ability to hold
paint, it is most often painted.

Hardwoods
Hardwoods are used extensively for fine furniture and cabinets. Their
strength, plus beauty and ability to take clear finishes (varnish and lacquer), makes
them ideal for the finest products of the cabinetmaker.
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There are many types of hardwoods; however, we will cover only the principal ones.

Walnut is one of the finest of cabinet woods, because the grain is porous and
varies from straight to irregular. Walnut works well with tools, finishes smoothly, and
holds glue and stain well. It is a hard, strong wood and is easily identified by its dark
heartwood. It is used extensively for plywood, veneers, furniture, and millwork.

Mahogany is not a native wood; therefore, all species are imported. Most
varieties come from Central America, Africa, and India. It is a hard, strong wood;
however, the hardness can vary with the species. Color can vary in shade, but
generally speaking, it is reddish brown. Mahogany has a close, varying grain,
causing a pleasing reflection of light. It is used chiefly for fine furniture, plywood
panels, veneers, and interior finishes.
Oak is a very hard, strong wood with two main species: white and red. Unless
it is carefully seasoned, it will warp and check; however, once it is worked to a finish
it is without rival for strength and beauty. Oak bends excellently, holds nails well,
finishes smoothly, and holds glue satisfactorily. The grain is coarse and porous; and
when quartersawed, the medullary rays are broad and numerous, making pleasing
patterns. It takes stain very well, making beautiful grain contrasts, and is used for
interior finishes, flooring, plywood panels, veneers, and furniture. Oak sometimes is
used in boatbuilding where strength is required.

Plywood
Today plywood is used for thousands of products, and the average
person comes into contact with it every day. It, too, is used extensively in
cabinetwork. Modern plywood
consists of veneers that are
fabricated with glues. In simple
terms, it consists of three or more
layers of thin wood firmly glued
together, with the grain direction
of the middle layer at right angles
to the outer layers. By this means
of fabrication, swelling and
shrinking is reduced and stability
and strength are added, qualities
which would not be found in the
original material.

Figure 3. Grain Direction in a sheet of


plywood

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Two Basic Types of Plywood

1. Exterior Plywood - Exterior plywood is bonded with waterproof glues. It can be


used for siding, concrete forms, and other constructions where it will be
exposed to the weather or excessive moisture.
2. Interior plywood is bonded with glues that are not waterproof. It is used for
cabinets and other inside construction where the moisture content of the
panels will not exceed 20 percent. Finishing plywood presents no unusual
problems; it can be sanded or texture coated with a permanent finish or left to
weather naturally.
Plywood is made in thicknesses of 1/8 inch to more than 1 inch, with the
common sizes being 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 inch. A standard panel size is 4-feet
wide by 8-feet long. Smaller size panels are available in the hardwoods.

There is probably no other building material as versatile as plywood. It is used


for concrete forms, wall and roof sheathing, flooring, box beams, soffits, stressed-
skin panels, paneling, shelving, doors, furniture, cabinets, crates, signs, and many
other items.
Wood used in cabinetwork consists of a variety of hardwoods, softwoods, and
plywood. When selecting materials for cabinets, you should select the type best
suited for the job you are doing. That is, don't use the highest grade of lumber or the
best grade of plywood to construct a cabinet that is to be used for storage.

Table 1. Classification of Softwood Plywood Rates Species for Strength and


Stiffness

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Bill of Materials and Cutting List

Before beginning the work of laying out, a complete list must be made of all
the different pieces of lumber needed for a job. Such a list is called “bill of material”
or a “finished-stock list.” It is made out directly from the drawing, which shows the
dimensions of each piece and the method of construction.

A bill of material specifies the wood to be used, lists the number of pieces
needed, gives the exact dimensions for each piece, and names the part of the
construction for which it is to used, such as sides, legs, or top.
For cabinet works the dimensions are given in inches and in the following
order: thickness, width, length. Usually the length is the greatest dimension, but
there are cases that the width is greater the length.
A rough-stock list or a cutting list usually is made from the finished-stock list
by adding 1/8 in. to the thickness, ¼ in. to the width, and ½ in. to the length. This is
to allow for planing and squaring. No allowance is made for plywood.

Lumber for building purposes is sawed and planed to various standard


dimensions. Planed lumber is slightly less in thickness and width than rough-sawed
lumber. From 1/16 to 1/8 in. is allowed for each planed surface. Therefore, a planed
1 in. board is only 7/8 or 13/16 in. thick. The symbol S2S, used by lumber dealers,
means surfaces or dressed on two sides. Lumber for cabinet is sold in odd widths
and short lengths and at a lower price than is charged for standard width and
lengths.

Figure 4. Pictorial
Drawing of Built-in
Book Shelves

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Table 2. Bill of materials
FINISH LIST CUTTING (ROUGH) LIST
No.
of Thicknes Width Length Kind of Name Thickness Widt Lengt
Piece s Material of Part h h
s
12 3/4 2 68 ½ cherry sides 7/8 2¼ 69
6 3/4 6 22 cherry bottom 7/8 6¼ 22 ½
Rails
6 3/4 3 22 cherry Middle 7/8 3¼ 22 ½
rails
6 3/4 5½ 22 cherry Top 7/8 5¼ 22 ½
rails
6 3/4 20 ½ 45 ½ Cherry Panels ¼ 20 ½ 45 ½
plywood
3 3/4 20 ½ 16 ½ Cherry panels ¼ 20 ½ 16 ½
Plywood

Table 3. Cutting List of Built-it Book Shelves

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SELF-CHECK NO. 4.1-2

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________

TRUE OR FALSE. Read the statement carefully. Write TRUE if the statement is true
and FALSE if the statement is false. Write your answer on the space provided before
the number.
1. Many softwoods are used in cabinetmaking.

2. Hardwoods are used extensively for fine furniture and cabinets.

3. Mahogany has a close, varying grain, causing it to split easily.

4. Plywood is used extensively in cabinetwork. It is used also for concrete


forms, wall and roof sheathing, flooring, box beams, soffits, stressed-
skin panels, paneling, shelving, doors, furniture, cabinets, crates,
signs, and many other items.
5. Finishing plywood cannot be sanded nor texture coated with a
permanent finish.

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ANSWER KEY NO. 4.1-2

Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer
back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect.

1. TRUE

2. TRUE

3. FALSE

4. TRUE

5. FALSE

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OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.1-2
Title: Re-Checking Material for Correct
Specifications
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be
able to re-check materials for correct
specifications
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan
Sample Materials (Lumber)
Equipment:

Steps/Procedure:

1. Study carefully the working drawing/plan provided to you.


2. Look for the overall dimensions and detailed dimensions of the project
according to the drawing.
3. Get the actual measurement of the materials/stock assigned to you and get
the number of pieces needed using the form provided to you.

4. Accomplish Form 01a Materials Inspection List.

Assessment Method:
Portfolio Assessment
Performance Criteria Checklist

FORM 01a. MATERIAL INSPECTION LIST

SPECIFICATION REQUIREMENTS ACTUAL


UNIT NO. OF DIMENSION (INCHES) NO. OF ACTUAL MEASUREMENT
NAME PIECES THICKNESS WIDTH LENGTH PIECE THICKNESS WIDTH LENGTH
S
1 2 2 2 6½
2 4 1½ 2 4 1/4
3 4 2½ 2¼ 5
4 1 ¾ 24 16
Remarks: __________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
Inspected by: _______________________ Date Inspected: ________________

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PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.1-2

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________

CRITERIA YES NO
1. Can I identify material specification from parts lists from
the actual/physical materials?
2. Are all required materials checked and re-checked
according to job requirement, such as:
1. Dimensions;

2. No. of required pieces; and,

3. Type of materials?

3. Is the required form for inspection properly


accomplished and completed?

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INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.1-3
WOOD DEFECTS

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be


able to IDENTIFY WOOD DEFECTS.
No matter what species of timber you use, you will undoubtedly come across
some pieces that contain defects come across some pieces that contain defects.

Defects may be naturally occurring or can be man-made. Natural defects can


be due to many reasons such as environmental factors, growth patterns, soil
composition, etc. Man- made defects can occur at many points ... from the felling of
the tree, transport, storage, sawing, drying, etc.

Although you can work around some defects such as knots, or cut off defects
such as splits, boards that are heavily twisted, bowed, cupped, or crooked usually
are not usable.
Bow A curve along the face of a board that
usually runs from end to end.

Checking A crack in the wood structure of a


piece, usually running lengthwise.
Checks are usually restricted to the
end of a board and do not penetrate
as far as the opposite side of a piece
of sawn timber.

Crook Warping along the edge from one end


to the other. This is most common in
wood that was cut from the centre of
the tree near the pith

Cupping Warping along the face of a board


across the width of the board. This
defect is most common of plain sawn
lumber.

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Split A longitudinal separation of the fibres
which extends to the opposite face of
a piece of sawn timber.

Twist Warping in lumber where the ends


twist in opposite directions

Wane The presence of bark or absence of


wood on comers of a piece of lumber

Blue A discoloration that penetrates


Stain the wood fibre. It can be any colour
other than the natural colour of the
piece in which it is found. It is classed
as light, medium or heavy and is
generally blue or brown

Machine A darkening of the wood due to


Burn overheating by the machine knives or
rolls when pieces are stopped in a
machine.
Pitch An accumulation of resinous material
on the surface or in pockets below the
surface of wood. Also called gum or
sap.
Loose A knot that cannot be relied upon
Knot to remain in place in the piece.
Caused by a dead branch that was
not fully integrated into the tree before
it was cut down
Tight A knot fixed by growth or
Knot position in the wood structure so that
it firmly retains its place in the
surrounding wood
Worm Small holes in the wood caused
holes by insects and beetles

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SELF-CHECK NO. 4.1-3

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________

IDENTIFICATION. Read the statement carefully. Identify the type of wood defects
from the given statements. Write your answer on space provided.

1 A discoloration that penetrates the wood fibre. It can be any colour


other than the natural colour of the piece in which it is found. It is
classed as light, medium or heavy and is generally blue or brown
2 Small holes in the wood caused by insects and beetles
3 Warping along the face of a board across the width of the board.
This defect is most common of plain sawn lumber.
4 A longitudinal separation of the fibres which extends to the
opposite face of a piece of sawn timber.
5 A curve along the face of a board that usually runs from end to
end.

10

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ANSWER KEY NO. 4.1-3

Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer
back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect.

1. Blue stain
2. Worm holes
3. Crook
4. Cupping
5. Bow
6. Cracking
7. Split
8. Twist
9. Wane
10. Loose Knot

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OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.1-3
Title: Identify Wood Defects
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should
be able to identify wood defects from the
given materials/stocks
Supplies and Materials: Lumber (with visible wood defects)

Equipment:

Steps/Procedure:

• Check thoroughly the physical appearance of the wood/lumber provided to


you in your station.
• Examine the appearance of the stocks.
• Accomplish Form 02 Wood Defects Inspection List for visible defects of
wood.
Assessment Method:
Portfolio Assessment
Performance Criteria Checklist

FORM 01b WOOD DEFECTS INSPECTION LIST

PART NO. 1 Type of Wood: ______________________________________

Remarks: __________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
PART NO. 2 Type of Wood: ______________________________________

Remarks: __________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
PART NO. 2 Type of Wood: ______________________________________

__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
Others: __________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________
Inspected by: _______________________ Date Inspected: ________________

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PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.1.3

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________

CRITERIA YES NO

• Can I identify different defects of wood?

• Are materials like lumber checked to correct


specification to ensure that they are free from
defects?
• Are defected wood/stock identified and properly
reported using corresponding form?

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INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.1-4 CLASSIFICATION OF HAND
TOOLS & EQUIPMENT AND THEIR USES

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be


able to IDENTIFY THE CLASSIFICATION OF HAND TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
AND THEIR USES
The whole range of tools for carpentry is quite extensive and includes power
and battery-operated (cordless) tools in the essential list. The following details,
therefore, do not cover all the tools that you could have, rather all the tools that you
should have.
MARKING AND MEASURING
Pencils
For more accurate marking and a
longer-lasting point, they can easily be
sharpened to a chisel-point.
Tape Rule Figure 5. Pencils

This is essential for fast, efficient


measuring on site work. For this type of
carrying-rule, sizes vary between 2 m
and 10 m. Models with lockable, power-
return blades and belt clips, one of 3.5
m and one of 8 m length are Figure 6. Tape Rule
recommended.

Chalk Line Reel


This tool is very useful for marking straight lines by
holding the line taut between two extremes, lifting at any
mid point with finger and thumb and flicking onto the
surface to leave a straight chalk line.

Figure 7. Chalk Line Reel

Marking Gauges
Gauges are used for cutting parallel lines at a
given distance from the edge

Figure 8. Marking Gauge


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Spirit Level
This is an essential tool for plumbing and leveling
operations. When checking or setting up a level or plumb
position, be sure that the bubble is equally settled between
the lines on the vial for accurate readings.

Figure 9. Spirit Level

Plumb Bob
There is still a use, however limited, for these traditional
plumbing devices. They should, as illustrated, always be
suspended away from the surface being checked and
measured for equal readings at top and bottom. The point is
very useful for plumbing to a mark on the floor.

Figure 10. Plumb Bob

Combination Mitre Square


This tool can be used for testing or marking
narrow rebated edges, as shown, or for testing or
marking angles of 90°, 45°, and 135°; the blade can
be adjusted from the stock to a set measurement
and, with the aid of a pencil, used as a pencil gauge.

Figure 11. Combination Miter Square

Sliding Bevel
This is an essential tool for angular work, especially
roofing if using the Roofing Ready Reckoner method.

Figure 12. Sliding Bevel

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CUTTING TOOLS
Handsaws
• Crosscut Saw -This is for cutting timber
across the grain. When crosscutting, the
saw should be at an approximate angle of
45° to the timber.

Figure 13. Crosscut Saw


• Tenon Saw - This saw is sometimes referred to
as a back saw. Technically thought of as a
general purpose bench saw for fine cutting, it is
however widely used on site for certain second-
fixing operations involving fine crosscutting of
small sections.

Figure 14. Tenon Saw

• Rip Saw - Used for cutting along or with the


grain. When ripping (cutting along or with the
grain), the saw should be used at a steep
angle of about 60–70° to the timber.

Figure 15. Rip Saw

• General Saw and Fine Saw - The first model is


general carpentry saw is recommended for
cutting worktops and laminates without
chipping. The second model is called a fine cut
saw and has a half-length back or full-length
back support and is said to surpass
conventional tenon saws.

Figure 16. General Saw and Fine Saw

• Coping Saw - This is mainly used for scribing


(cutting the profile shape) of molded skirting
boards where they meet in the corners of a
room, but occasionally comes in useful for
other curved cuts in wood or plastic.

Figure 17. Coping Saw


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CHISELS
Firmer chisels are generally for heavy
work, chopping and cutting timber in a variety of
operations where a certain amount of
mallet/hammer work and levering might be
necessary to remove the chopped surface.
Bevelled-edge chisels are generally for more
accurate finishing tasks.
Figure 18. (a) Firmer Chisel; (b)
Bevelled-edge Chisel
HAND PLANES
The two planes to be recommended as
most useful for site work are the No. 4 1-2
smoothing plane with a cutter width of 60 mm
and a base length of 260mm and the No. 5 1-2
jack plane, also with a cutter width of 60mm, but
a base length of 381mm.
Figure 19. Metal Jack Plane

DRIVING TOOLS
HAMMERS
• Claw Hammer - Although this tool is basically for nailing and extracting nails, it
has also been
widely used over the years by using the
side of the head as an alternative to the
wooden mallet. The claw is also used for a
limited amount of leverage work, such as
separating nailed boards, etc.

Figure 20. Claw Hammer

• Mallet - The conventional wedge-shaped pattern is rather bulky and not


generally favoured for site work, even though the tapered shaft
– retaining the head from flying off – can be removed for easier carriage. A
recommended alternative is a round-headed mallet, such as a Tinman’s
mallet – used
traditionally by sheet-metal workers – which
has a boxwood or lignum-vitae head of about
70 mm diameter. Finally, wooden mallets
should only strike on their end grain, not on
their sides.
Figure 21. Mallet

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SCREWDRIVERS
· Ratchet Screwdriver - The ratchet
screwdriver is available with flared
slotted tip in four blade-lengths of
75mm, 100mm, 150mm and
200mm. They are also available
with a No 2 Supadriv/Pozidriv tip
and a No 2 Phillips’ tip in blade-
lengths of 100 mm only.

Figure 22. (a) Rachet screwdriver; (b) Spiral


pump Screwdriver; (c) Plastic-handled screwdriver

· Spiral Pump Screwdriver - can be used as a ratchet. The use of drill bits in
this compact-size pump is an attractive alternative for making speedy pilot
holes. Interchangeable bits are supplied with the whole range of this type of
screwdriver in different sizes.
· Plastic-Handled Screwdrivers - has a well-shaped polypropylene handle
integrated with thermo-plastic elastomeric inserts to provide improved grip
and comfort in use.
RATCHET BRACE
Used for making large holes, it has
wooden head and handle which is fitted in
bearings to turn easily. At the bottom it is
provided with a chuck to hold the bit. The
ratchet positioned above the chuck helps to
rotate the bit in one direction only

Figure 23. Rachet Brace

BITS
• Twist bits and flat bits - Also referred to as
auger bits used for drilling shallow or deep
(maximum 150 mm) holes of 6–32 mm
diameter.

Figure 24. Twist bits/ Auger bits and


flat bits

• Countersink bits - These are for screw-head recessing in soft metal and
timber.
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• Combined countersink and counterbore bits - Used for drilling a pilot hole,
shank hole and countersink for woodscrews in one operation.

Figure 25. Countersink bits Figure 26. Combined


countersink and counterbore bit

PORTABLE POWERED AND CORDLESS CIRCULAR SAWS


These saws are widely used
nowadays to save time and energy spent on
hand sawing operations. They can also be
used for bevel cuts, sawn grooves and
rebates.

Figure 27. Portable powered


circular saw

POWERED AND CORDLESS DRILLS AND


SCREWDRIVERS
There is nowadays a wide range of dual-
and triple-purpose drills to choose from, starting
with the basic rotary-only drill and ending with
the advanced electro
pneumatic hammer drill. the drill/screwdriver,
drill/impact (percussion) drill/screwdriver,
drill/rotary hammer drill/screwdriver, and
combinations of battery-powered models such
as the cordless screwdriver, drill/screwdriver,
drill/impact drill/screwdriver, and the drill/rotary
hammer drill/screwdriver.

Figure 28. Powered and cordless drills and screwdrivers

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POWERED AND CORDLESS PLANERS
Powered planers are often used nowadays in conjunction with traditional
planes such as the jack and the smoothing plane. They are sometimes preferred on
such jobs as door-hanging, to lessen the strenuous task of ‘shooting-in’ the door by
planing its edges.

(a) (b)
Figure 29. (a) Powered plane; (b) Cordless plane

POWERED AND CORDLESS JIGSAWS


The essential purpose for a jigsaw is to enable pierced work to be carried out.
This self-explanatory term means to enter the body of a material, without leading in
from an outside edge. By so doing, small, irregular shapes can be cut.

Figure 30. (a) Powered jigsaw; (b) Cordless jigsaw

POWERED (PORTABLE) ROUTERS


These include cutting recessed housings for door
hinges; apertures for letter plates (often referred to as letter
boxes); mortises for door locks and latches; joints in laminate
kitchen-worktops with post-formed edges; end-shaping of
laminate worktops; cutting ‘dog-bone’ or ‘T-shaped’ recesses
for inserting panel bolt connectors; and cutting segmental
slots in the joint-edges of worktops for the insertion of so-
called ‘biscuits’.

Figure 31. Powered router

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NAILING GUNS
Nail guns are being used on sites nowadays – especially on new-build
projects. The reason for this is that these tools eliminate the effort involved in
repetitive nailing and speed up the job.

Figure 28 (a) Pneumatic Framing Nailer; (b) cordless gas/battery Framing Nailer; (c)
cordless battery-only Finish Nailer

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SELF-CHECK NO. 4.1-4

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________

IDENTIFICATION. Look at the illustration carefully. Identify the kind and


classification tools and equipment. Write your answer on the space provided.

CLASSIFICATION NAME OF
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT (DRIVING, BORING,
CUTTING, MARKING, TOOL
MEASURING)
1

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ANSWER KEY 4.1-4

Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer
back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect.

CLASSIFICATION NAME OF TOOL


1 DRIVING TOOL SCREWDRIVER
2 CUTTING TOOL WOOD CHISEL
3 BORING TOOL RACHET BRACE
4 CUTTING TOOL HAND PLANE
5 BORING TOOL BITS

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LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 2 Fabricate/assemble built-in cabinet
components and/or pre-fabricated
cabinet
CONTENTS:

1. Woodworking process
2. Classification of wood joints and their uses
3. Description of manufactured cabinets
4. Procedure in laying-out and assembling on the location of cabinets

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA
1. Cabinet location is identified from working drawings and
specifications
2. Cabinet components are fabricated and/or pre-fabricated cabinets are
prepared/assembled according to working drawings and specifications

3. Unexpected situation are dealt with in accordance with company rules


and regulations
4. Housekeeping is performed according to safety regulations
5. Appropriate PPE is used according to job requirements and safety
regulations
CONDITIONS:
You must be provided with the
following:
• WORKPLACE LOCATION
• TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT • Hand Saw
• Hammer • Chalk Line
• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• TRAINING MATERIALS
• Leaning Packages
• Bond paper
• Ball pens
• Manuals
• Related References
ASSESSMENT METHOD
• Portfolio

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Learning Experience
FABRICATE/ASSEMBLE BUILT-IN CABINET COMPONENTS
AND/OR PRE-FABRICATED CABINET
Learning Activities Special Instructions
1. Read Information Sheet
No. 4.2-1 on Wood working
process
2. Perform Operation Evaluate your own work using the
Sheet no. 4.2-1 on Performance Criteria
Planing and Squaring Present your work to your trainer for
Stock to Dimension evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the next
activities
3. Read Information Sheet
No. 4.2-2 on Classification
of Wood Joints and their
Uses
4. Answer Self-Check No. Compare your answer to the answer key
4.2-2
5. Read Information Sheet
No. 4.2-3 on Description
of Manufactured
Cabinets
6. Answer Self-Check No. Compare your answer to the answer key
4.2-3
7. Read Information Sheet
No. 4.2-4 on Laying-out
Manufacture Kitchen
Cabinet
8. Read Information Sheet
No. 4.2-5 on Installing
Manufactured Kitchen
Cabinet
9. Perform Operation Evaluate your own work using the
Sheet No. 4.2-5a on Performance Criteria
Laying-out the Wall Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the next
activities
10. Perform Operation Evaluate your own work using the
Sheet No. 4.2-5b on Performance Criteria
Installing Wall Units Present your work to your trainer for
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evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the next
activities
11. Perform Operation Evaluate your own work using the
Sheet No. 4.2-5c on Performance Criteria
Installing Base Cabinet Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the next
activities
12. Read Information Sheet
No. 4.2-6 on Installing
Manufactured Countertops
13. Perform Operation Evaluate your own work using the
Sheet No. 4.2-6a on Performance Criteria
Installing Manufactured Present your work to your trainer for
Countertops evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the next
activities
14. Perform Operation Evaluate your own work using the
Sheet No. 4.2-6b on Performance Criteria
Installing the Cabinet Present your work to your trainer for
Ends evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the next
activities
15. Perform Operation Evaluate your own work using the
Sheet No. 4.2-6c on Performance Criteria
Making the Face Frame Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the next
activities
16. Read Information
Sheet No. 4.2-7 on
Drawer Construction
17. Perform Operation Evaluate your own work using the
Sheet No. 4.2-7a on Performance Criteria
Overlay Drawer Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the next
activities
18. Perform Operation Evaluate your own work using the
Sheet No. 4.2-7b on Performance Criteria
Making Lipped Drawer Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
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Keep a copy of your work for the next
activities
19. Perform Operation Evaluate your own work using the
Sheet No. 4.2-7c on Performance Criteria
Making Flush Drawer Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the next
activities

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INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.2-1
WOODWORKING PROCESS

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be


able to KNOW the different WOODWORKING PROCESSES
Preliminaries to any sound construction are (1) a full cutting list of all the
pieces required; (2)good timber free from natural defects, accurately sawn and
planed up flat, square and out of twist;(3) careful planning of the work ahead,
including the choosing of appropriate jointing methods, the order in which they are to
be cut and the order and method in which the various pieces and parts are to be
assembled in the completed carcass. This last is important and must be accurately
visualized if there are to be no last-minute hitches, with carefully cut joints glued
ready for assembly unable to be driven home because the direction of entry conflicts
with other parts already in position.

A. SETTING/LAYING OUT
The wood must first be cut to approximate length, and it is always better to
square off from either a sawn edge or a pencil-line along the length if the planks
are waney. If an incorrect line is drawn—and all measurements should always be
checked and double checked—then it should be cancelled out and a broad arrow
drawn against the corrected measurement. The ends of the plank should be
carefully examined for hidden splits and the first few inches of any plank which has
been stored for any length of time may have to be sacrificed.

Due allowance for working must be made, with 1/4 in (6 mm) on width and
1/2 in (12 mm) on the length for the first rough sawing to dimension unless the
cuts are machine -made and accurate. Customary allowance for planing
(surfacing) sawn thicknesses is usually 3/32 in (2.5 mm) for each finished face.

The following is an outline of procedure using predominantly hand tools.


Although many of these operations would normally be undertaken with the aid of
machinery in professional shops, at some time or other, particularly on one-off,
prototype or site work, every one of these hand processes might be used. Also,
there is no better way of understanding the materials we work with than through a
basic training in hand skills and techniques.

B. MARKING/LAYING OUT
Face-marks and edge-marks must be bold and should be done with a thick soft pencil. For the first
approximate dimensioning of lengths, etc.
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a B or HB pencil can be used, but for accurate dimensions at later stages a 2H or
4H is necessary, while shoulder-lines should always be marked with a knife.

Figure 29. Marking a new line (A) and marking the trued edge

C. SAWING OUT
The rip-saw is used for long-grain sawing, the large crosscut or crosscut
panel-saw for cutting across the grain, and the temptation to use the finer tenon-
and dovetail- saws for rough work should be strenuously resisted, for more often
than not the plank will be gritty. A usual tendency on the part of the beginner is to
saw too fast, and in comparison the skilled worker's pace is almost leisurely, but he
will cut more wood in the end and it will be accurate. Every effort should be made to
saw not only on the line but also truly vertical, as this will save not only material but
a great deal of unnecessary work at later stages.

D. PLANING (SURFACING)
Either the fore- or jack-plane is used for the first rough levelling, the try-plane
for true leveling and the finely set smoothing-plane for final surfacing. In planing
wide boards the best or face surface should first be levelled off along, across or
diagonally, according to how the grain works (interlocked grain is best planed
diagonally to prevent tearing out), When the board is out of wind then the try-plane
should be capable of taking fine shavings the full length of the board over the entire
area, to be followed up by the finely set smoothing-plane to ease out any ridges and
roughened patches. When the surface is planed perfectly true and out of wind it
should be marked with a 'face' mark (128B) which should never be omitted from any
piece of prepared wood.

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E. SQUARING EDGES
Immediately after the face surface is true, the leading or best edge should be
trued straight in its length and at right angles to the face, checking carefully with the
try-square all along the length; it is then known as the 'trued' or face edge and is
marked accordingly. This is, perhaps, the most difficult of all planing operations, for
while it is comparatively easy to plane a straight edge with a long try-plane, always
remembering that pressure is applied at the front of the plane at the start of the
stroke and gradually transferred to the back as the plane moves forward, it is much
more difficult to keep the edge truly square to the face.

Figure 30.

F. SQUARING ENDS
The shooting-board is used for squaring ends, but if the wood is too wide or
too heavy to be held on the board then the ends will have to be shot in the vice and
checked against a long trysquare. The practice of nicking off the far corner to prevent
the grain splintering out is not to be recommended, and it is advisable to learn how to
use the try-plane in both directions, leading with the left hand, reversing the plane
and leading with the right. An alternative method is to cramp/clamp a block at the far
corner to support the grain, and a similar scrap piece is sometimes necessary when
squaring ends on the shooting-board.

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OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-5
Title: Plane and Square Stock to Dimension
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should
be able to plane and square stock to
dimension
Supplies and Materials: Lumber/ stock
Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Try-square
• Marking Tools • Hand Saw
• Measuring Tools • PPE
• Hand Planer
1. Plane one broad surface
smooth and straight.
Test it crosswise,
lengthwise, and from
corner to corner. Mark
the work
X

Work on face

2. Plane one edge smooth


straight and square to the
work face test it from work
face. Mark the work edge
X

Work on edge

3. Plane one end smooth


and square. Test it from
the work face and work
edge. Mark the work end
X

Work on end

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4. Measure length and scribe
around the stock. A line
square to the work edge
and work face. Saw off
excess stock near the line
and plane smooth to the
scribed line. Test the
second end from both the
work face and the work
edge.

5. From the work edge


gauge a line for width on
both faces plane
smooth, straight, square
and to the gauge line. Test
the second edge from the
work face

Work on second edge

6. From the work face gauge


a line for thickness around
the
stock. Plane the stock to
the gauge line test the
second face as the work
face is tested.

Work on second face

Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist

Date Document No.


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INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.2-2
CLASSIFICATION OF WOOD JOINTS AND THEIR USES

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be


able to KNOW and APPLY the different classification of WOOD JOINTS and their
USES

Jointing methods are designed to hold or lock pieces of wood together, either
in the same plane or in opposing planes, so that the method of attachment is
permanent and strong against loading stresses, thrusts, sudden impact, the wear
and tear of daily use and the constant movement of the wood fibers.

Methods of joining wood together can be classified under four broad


headings:
• Butted joints, either edge to edge, side to side and with or without additional
reinforcement
• Interlocking joints where one piece of wood is cut or shaped to fit a
corresponding socket in the other piece
• Mechanical joints which permit controlled movement
• Knock-down metal or plastic fittings which secure the various wood sections
together to form rigid structures

Figure 31. Basic joint cuts

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A. Types of Carpentry Joints

1. Halving joint

• used in construction of frames

Figure 32. Halving Joints

• after marking and cutting, the two parts are glued together with final
external surfaces level

Figure 33a. Corner Halving Joint joint Figure 33b. T- halving

2. Mortise and tenon joint

• strong joint used in


construction of doors,
windows and frames
• the tenon (tongue)
fits into a
mortise(mouth)
• the open mortise and
tenon joint is called
briddle joint and is
usually made in square
sections

Figure 44. Mortise & tenon joint


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Figure 35. Briddle joint

3. Mitre joint

• formed by cutting the ends at an


angle
• the two ends are joined by nails or
screws
• this joint is used in photo frames

Figure 36. Miter joint

4. Dowel joint

· used as substitute for mortise and tenon joint, and securing loose parts to
a product

Date Document No.


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Figure 37. Dowel joint

5. Butt & rubbed joint

1. used to produce wide boards like drawing


boards, table tops
2. to make the joint the edges are planed with trying
plane and joined together with glue
Figure 38. Butt or rubbed joint

6. Screw & slot joint

• used for thick wooden pieces


which do not glue readily
• on piece carries the screw while the
other has a hole for head of the
screw and a slot for shank
Figure 39. Screw & slotted joint

Date Document No.


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7. Tongue & grooved joint

• widening joint used for flanks and boards


• this is prepared by cutting a groove on one edge and a matching tongue
on the other
• tongue is fitted into groove
• sometimes, grooves are made on both the edges and a separate tongue is
inserted in it --such joints are called inserted tongue and groove joint

Figure 40. Tongue & grooved joint

8. Dovetail

• the best method of jointing two pieces of wood together in their width
and at right angles to each other

Figure 41(1-2). Hand Dovetail Figure 41(3-4). Machine Dovetail

Figure 42. Box Dovetail


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SELF-CHECK NO. 4.2-2

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________

IDENTIFICATION. Look at the illustration carefully. Identify the kinds of wood joints.
Write your answer on the space provided.

1. _____________________________

2. ______________________________

3. _____________________________

4. _____________________________

5. _____________________________

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ANSWER KEY 4.2-2

Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer
back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect.

1. Miter Joint

2. Halving Joint

3. Mortise and Tenon

4. Dado

5. dovetail joint

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INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.2-3
DESCRIPTION OF MANUFACTURED CABINETS

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be


able to be familiar with the various kinds, sizes, uses, and construction of the
cabinets and to know how to and install them.

For commercial buildings, many kinds of specialty cabinets are manufactured.


They are designed for specific uses in offices, hospitals, laboratories, schools,
libraries, and other buildings. Most cabinets used in residential construction are
manufactured for the kitchen or bathroom. All cabinets, whether for commercial or
residential use/ consist of a case which is fitted with shelves, doors, and/or drawers.
Cabinets are manufactured and installed in essentially the same way. Designs vary
considerably with the manufacturer, but sizes are close to the same.

Kinds and Sizes

One method of cabinet construction utilizes a face frame. This frame provides
openings for doors and drawers. Another method, called European or frameless,
eliminates the face frame. Face-framed cabinets usually give a traditional look.
Frameless cabinets are used when a contemporary appearance is desired.

Figure 43. Two basic methods of cabinet construction are with a face
frame or frameless

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The two basic kinds of kitchen cabinets are the wall unit and the base unit.
The surface of the countertop is usually about 36 inches from the floor. Wall units are
installed about 18 inches above the countertop. This distance is enough to
accommodate such articles as coffee makers, toasters, blenders, and mixers. Yet it
keeps the top shelf within reach, not over 6 feet from the floor. The usual overall
height of a kitchen cabinet installation is 7'-0" .

Figure 44. Parts of manufactured kitchen cabinet

1. Wall Cabinets. Standard wall cabinets are 12 inches deep. They normally
come in heights of 42, 30, 24, 18, 15, and 12 inches. The standard height is 30
inches. Shorter cabinets are used above sinks, refrigerators, and ranges. The 42-
inch cabinets are for use in kitchens without soffits where more storage space is
desired. A standard height wall unit usually contains two adjustable shelves.

Usual wall cabinet widths range from 9 to 48 inches in 3-inch increments.


They come with single or double doors depending on their width. Single-door
cabinets can be hung so doors can swing in either direction.

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Wall corner cabinets make access into corners easier. Double-faced cabinets
have doors on both sides for use above island and peninsular bases. Some wall
cabinets are made 24 inches deep for installation above refrigerators. A microwave
oven case/ with a 30-inch wide shelf, is available.

Figure 45. Common cabinet heights and dimensions

2. Base Cabinets. Most base cabinets are manufactured 34 1/2 inches high
and 24 inches deep. By adding the usual countertop thickness of 1 ½ inches, the
work surface is at the standard height of 36 inches from the floor. Base cabinets
come in widths to match wall cabinets. Single-door cabinets are manufactured in
widths from 9 to 24 inches. Double-door cabinets come in widths from 27 to 48
inches. A recess called a toe space is provided at the bottom of the cabinet.

The standard base cabinet contains one drawer, one door, and an adjustable
shelf. Some base units have no drawers; others contain all drawers. Double- faced
cabinets provide access from both sides. Corner units/ with round revolving shelves,
make corner storage easily accessible

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Figure 46. Base cabinets

3. Tall Cabinets. Tall cabinets are usually manufactured 24 inches deep, the
same depth as base cabinets. Some utility cabinets are 12 inches deep. They are
made 66 inches high and in widths of 27.30, and 33 inches for use as oven cabinets-
Single-door utility cabinets are made 18 and 24 inches wide. Doubledoor pantry
cabinets are made 36 inches wide (Fig. 87-6). Wall cabinets with a 24-inch depth are
usually installed above tall cabinets.

Figure 47. Tall cabinets are manufactured as oven, utility, and pantry
units

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4. Vanity Cabinets. Most vanity base cabinets are made 311/2 inches high
and 21 inches deep. Some are made in depths of 16 and 18 inches. Usual widths
range from 24 to 36 inches in increments of 3 inches, then 42,48, and 60 inches.
They are available with several combinations of doors and drawers, depending on
their width- Various sizes and styles of vanity wall cabinets are also manufactured.

Figure 48. Vanity cabinets are made similar to kitchen cabinets, but
differ in size

5. Accessories. Accessories are essential to or enhance a cabinet


installation. Filler pieces fill small gaps in width between wall and base
units when no combination of sizes can fill the existing space. They are
cut to necessary widths on the job. Other accessories include cabinet
end panels, face panels for dishwashers and refrigerators, open
shelves for cabinet ends, and spice racks.

Date Document No.


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SELF-CHECK NO. 4.2-3

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________

MATCHING TYPE. Choose from the letters under Column B the answers in Column
A. Write your answer on the space provided.

COLUMN A COLUMN B

____1. Manufactured at standard a. wall cabinet


height of 36 inches from the
floor and 24 inches deep.

____2. Most of these cabinets are b. base cabinet


made 31 1/2 inches high and
21 inches deep.

____3. Standard cabinet height is c. tall cabinet


30 inches, usually contains two
adjustable shelves.

____4. The standard cabinet d. vanity cabinet


contains one drawer, one door,
and an adjustable shelf, a
recess called a toe space is
provided at the bottom of the
cabinet.

____5. They are made 66 inches


high and in widths of 27.30.

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ANSWER KEY 4.2-3

Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer
back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect.
1. b

2. d

3. a

4. b

5. c

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INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.2-4
LAYING OUT MANUFACTURED KITCHEN CABINETS

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be


able to KNOW how to layout manufactured kitchen cabinets

The blueprints for a building contain plans, elevations, and details that show
the cabinet layout. Architects may draw the layout. But they may not specify the size
or the manufacturer's identification for each individual unit of the installation. In
residential construction, particularly in remodeling, no plans are usually available to
show the cabinet arrangement.

In addition to installation/ it becomes the responsibility of the carpentry contractor to


plan, lay out, and order the cabinets, in accordance with the customer's
specifications.
1. The first step is to measure carefully and accurately the length of the walls
on which the cabinets are to be installed. A plan is then drawn to scale. It must show
the location of all appliances, sinks, windows, and other necessary items.

2. Next, draw elevations of the base cabinets, referring to the


manufacturer's catalog for sizes. Always use the largest size cabinets available
instead of two or three smaller ones- This reduces the cost and makes installation
easier.
3. Match up the wall cabinets with the base cabinets, where feasible. If
filler strips are necessary, place them between a wall and a cabinet or between
cabinets in the corner. Identify each unit on the elevations with the manufacturer's
identification. Make a list of the units in the layout. Order from the distributor.

Date Document No.


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Figure 49. Typical plan of a kitchen cabinet layout showing location of
walls, windows and appliances

Figure 50. Sink Wall Elevation

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Figure 51. Elevations of the installation are drawn and the cabinets
identified.

Computer Layouts

Computer programs are available to help in laying out manufactured kitchen


cabinets. When the required information is fed into the computer, a number of
different layouts can be quickly made. When a acceptable layout is made, it can be
printed with each of the cabinets in the layout identified and priced. Most large
kitchen cabinet distributors will supply computerized layouts on request.

Date Document No.


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INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.2-5
INSTALLING MANUFACTURED CABINETS

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be


able to Install manufactures cabinets.
Cabinets must be installed level and plumb even though floors are not always
level and walls not always plumb. Level lines are first drawn on the wall for base and
wall cabinets. In order to level base cabinets that set on an unlevel floor, either shim
the cabinets from the high point of the floor or scribe and fit the cabinets to the floor
from lowest point on the floor. Shimming the base cabinets leaves a space that must
be later covered by a molding. Scribing and fitting the cabinets to the floor eliminate
the need for a molding. The method used depends on the various conditions of the
job. If shimming base cabinets, layout the level lines on the wall from the highest
point of the floors where cabinets are to be installed. If fitting cabinets to the floor,
measure up from the lowest point.

The fabrication and installation of manufactured cabinets will be


discussed in detail on the following operation sheets.

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OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-5a
Title: Laying-out the Wall
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should
be able to lay-out the wall where the
cabinet will be installed
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan
Lumber, plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Chalk Line


• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• Hand Saw

Steps/Procedure:

1. Measure 34 ½ inches up the wall. Draw a level line to indicate the tops of
the base cabinets. Another level line must be made on the wall 54 inches
from the floor. The bottoms of the wall units are installed to this line.

Note: It is more accurate to measure 19 1/2 inches up from


the first level line and snap lines parallel to it than to level
another line.
2. The next step is to mark the stud locations in a framed wall. (Cabinet
mounting screws will be driven into the studs.) Lightly tap on and across a
short distance of the wall with a hammer. Drive a finish nail in at the point
where a solid sound is heard. Drive the nail where holes are later covered
by a cabinet- If a stud is found, mark the location with a pencil. If no stud is
found try a little over to one side or the other.

3. Measure at 16-inch intervals in both directions from the first stud to locate
other studs. Drive a finish nail to test for solid wood. Mark each stud
location. If studs are not found at 16-inch centers, try 24-inch, centers- At
each stud location, draw plumb lines on the wall. Mark the outlines of all
cabinets on the wall to visualize and check the cabinet locations against the
layout.
See illustration on the following page.

Date Document No.


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The wall is laid out with outlines of the cabinets

Assessment Method:
Direct Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist

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PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-5a

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________

CRITERIA YES NO
• Did my measurements corresponds to the
measurements on the drawing?
• After laying-out the tops of the base cabinets and
the bottom of the wall units, is the measurement
from the first and second line equal to 19 ½
inches?
• Did I located the studs on the framed wall and draw
plumb lines on the wall?
• Did I marked the outlines of all cabinets on the wall
to visualize and check the cabinet locations against
the layout?

Date Document No.


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OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-5b
Title: Installing Wall Units
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should
be able to install wall units
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan
Lumber, plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Chalk Line


• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• Hand Saw
Steps/ Procedures:
1. Remove all doors and adjustable shelves. This makes the cabinets
lighter and easier to clamp together.
• If possible, screw a 1 X3 strip of lumber so its top edge is on the level
line for the bottom of the wall cabinets. This is used to support the wall
units while they are being fastened.
• If it is not possible to screw to the wall, build a stand on which to support
the unit near the line of installation (as shown below).

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2a. Start the installation of wall cabinets in a corner.

• On the wall, measure from the line representing the outside of the cabinet
to the stud centers
• Transfer the measurements to the cabinets
• Drill shank holes for mounting screws through mounting rails usually
installed at the top and bottom of the cabinet
• Place the cabinet on the supporting strip or stand so its bottom is on the
level layout line
• Fasten the cabinet in place with mounting screws of sufficient length
to hold the cabinet securely
• Do not fully tighten the screws

2b. On masonry walls, first drill holes through the mounting strips. Place the
cabinet in position, and mark the location of the drilled holes on the wall.
Remove the cabinet. Drill holes into the masonry wall for lead inserts. Replace
the cabinet, and screw in place.
3. The next cabinet is installed in the same manner.

• Align the adjoining stiles so their faces are flush with each other
• Clamp them together with C-clamps
• Screw the stiles tightly together
• Continue this procedure around the room
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• Tighten all mounting screws

4. If a filler needs to be used, it is better to add it next to a blind corner cabinet or


at the end of a run. It may be necessary to scribe the filler to the wall as shown
on the illustration below.

Assessment Method: Direct Observation


Performance Criteria Checklist

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PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-5b

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________

CRITERIA YES NO
• Are all doors and adjustable shelves removed
before installing the cabinet?

• Did I installed wall cabinets in a corner first?

• Are all adjoining stiles aligned so their faces were


flushed with each other?

Date Document No.


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OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-5c
Title: Installing Base Cabinets
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should
be able to install base cabinets
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan
Lumber, plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Chalk Line


• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• Hand Saw
Steps/ Procedures:
1. Start the installation of base cabinets in a comer.
• Shim the bottom until the cabinet top is on the layout line
• Then level and shim the cabinet from back to front
• If cabinets are to be fitted to the floor, shim until their tops are level
across width and depth. This will bring the tops above the layout
line that was measured from the low point of the floor

• Adjust the pencil dividers so the distance between the points is equal
to the amount the top of the unit is above the layout line

•Scribe this amount on the bottom end of the cabinets by running


the dividers along the floor
2. Cut both ends and toeboard to the scribed lines. There is no need to
cut the cabinet backs because they do not/ ordinarily, extend to the floor.

3. Place the cabinet in position.


• The top ends should be on the layout line.
4. Fasten it loosely to the wall.
Note: The remaining base cabinets are installed in the same manner.
Align and clamp the stiles of adjoining cabinets. Fasten them together.
5. Finally, fasten all units securely to the wall
Assessment Method: Portfolio Assessment
Performance Criteria Checklist

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PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.1.5c

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________

CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I started installing the base cabinets in the
corners first?

• Did I cut both ends and toe board to the


scribed lines?

• Are the cabinets placed in its prescribed


positions?
• Are all adjoining stiles aligned so their faces were
flushed with each other?

• Are all cabinets fastened to the walls securely?

Date Document No.


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INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.2-6
INSTALLING MANUFACTURED COUNTERTOPS

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be


able to be familiar with countertops, where it is made from, and LEARN the
procedure in installing manufactured countertops.

Countertops are manufactured in various standard lengths. They can be cut


to fit any installation against walls. They are also available with one end precut at a
45 degree angle for joining with a similar one at comers. Special hardware is used to
join the sections.
The countertops are covered with a thin, tough high-pressure plastic
laminate. This is generally known as mica. It is available in many colors and
patterns. The countertops are called postformed countertops. This term comes
from the method of forming the mica to the rounded edges and corners of the
countertop. Postforming is bending the mica with heat to a radius of 3/4 inch or less.
This can only be done with special equipment.

Steps in Installing Manufactured Countertops

1. After the base units are fastened in position, the countertop is cut to length. It
is fastened on top of the base units and against the wall. The backsplash can
be scribed, limited by the thickness of its scribing strip/ to an irregular wall
surface. Use pencil dividers to scribe a line on the top edge of the backsplash.
Then plane or belt sand to the scribed line.

2. Fasten the countertop to the base cabinets with screws up through triangular
blocks usually installed in the top corners of base units. Use a stop on the drill
bit. This prevents drilling through the countertop. Use screws of sufficient
length, but not so long that they penetrate the countertop.

3. Exposed cut ends of postformed countertops are covered by


specially shaped pieces of plastic laminate.
4. Sink cutouts are made by carefully outlining the cutout and cutting with a
saber saw. The cutout pattern usually comes with the sink.
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Use a fine tooth blade to prevent chipping out the face of the mica beyond
the sink. Some duct tape applied to the base of the saber saw will prevent
scratching of the countertop when making the cutout.

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OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-6a
Title: Install Manufactured Countertop
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should
be able to install manufactured countertop
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan
Lumber, plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Chalk Line


• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• Hand Saw
Steps/Procedure:

1. Use pieces 3/4- or 5/8-inch with width of 24 ½ inches panel material for
the countertop.
2. Place the countertop on the base of the cabinets, against the wall.
Its outside edge should overhang the face frame the same amount the entire
length. Open the pencil divider or scribers to the amount of overhang.

3. Scribe the back edge of the countertop to the wall.

4. Cut the countertop to the scribed line.

5. Place it back on top of the base cabinets. The ends should be flush with
the end of the base cabinets. The front edge should be flush with the face of the
face frame (as shown below).

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Scribing the countertop to fit the wall with its outside edge flush with
the face of the cabinet
6. Install a 1x2 on the front edge and at the ends, if an end overhang
is desired. Keep the top edge flush with the top side of the countertop.

7. If a backsplash is used, rip a 4-inch wide length of ¾ inch stock


the same length as the countertop.
8. Fasten the backsplash on top of and flush with the back edge of
the countertop. Use driving screws up through the countertop and into the
bottom edge of the backsplash. In corners, fasten the ends of the backsplash
together with screws.

Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist

Date Document No.


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PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-6a

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________

CRITERIA YES NO

• Is the outside edge of the countertop overhang the face


frame the same amount the entire length?

• Are the ends flushed with the end of the base


cabinet?

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
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2010
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Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
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OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-6b
Title: Installing the Cabinet Ends
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should
be able to install the cabinet ends
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan
Lumber, plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Chalk Line


• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• Hand Saw
Steps/Procedure:
1. Cut the cabinet ends to a rough length and width with
square ends. The length should be about 36 inches and the width
about 23- 1 / 2 inches.
2. Place one end in position. Plumb the outside edge. Use shims between
it and the wall and floor, if necessary, to hold it steady.
3. Adjust the pencil dividers to the same distance the top end projects
above the top cleat. Scribe this amount on the bottom.

4. Cut the bottom end to the scribed line to fit to the floor.

5. Place the end back in position. Its bottom end should fit the floor. Top
end should be flush and level with the top edge of the top cleat, and its
outside edge plumb.
6. Adjust the pencil dividers to the same distance the outside edge
projects beyond the cabinet bottom. Scribe this amount on the edge
against the wall.
7. Cut to the scribed line.

8. Before fastening the end in position, mark and cut a circular arc out of
the bottom outside corner for the toespace. The top of the cut is
started 1 1/2 inches below the cabinet bottom. The cut is flush with the
face of the toeboard at the floor line.
Date Document No.
JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
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9. Smooth the cut edge.

10. Fasten the cabinet end in position. Nail into the end of the cabinet
bottom and into the ends of the wall cleats (as shown below).

11. Cut and install the other end in the same manner.

Method of fitting the base cabinet end panels.

Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 79 of
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Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
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PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-6b

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________

CRITERIA YES NO

1. Did I fastened the cabinet ends in position?

• Is the flushed cabinet end fits the wall?

• Is the front end of flushed cabinet end


plumb?

• Is the bottom end fits the floor?

• Are the edges of the cabinet ends


smooth?
• Is the top edge of the cabinet end
flushed with the top edge of the
countertop cleat?

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 80 of
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Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
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OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-6c
Title: Making the Face Frame
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, and after installing the
cabinet ends, you should be
able to make the cabinet face frame.
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan
Lumber, plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Chalk Line


• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• Hand Saw
Steps/Procedure:
1. Install stiles on each cabinet end.
2. Install the bottom rail between the stiles. Keep the top edge flush
with the top side of the cabinet bottom.
3. Cut the top rail and drawer rail to the same length as the bottom
rail.
4. Fastened the top rails by clamping and gluing them to short
blocks of 1X2 stock installed in back of the joint (as shown
below).

Construction of the base cabinet face frame

Date Document No.


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5. Sand all joints flush.

6. Ease all sharp exposed comers.

Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist

Date Document No.


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Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
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PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-6c

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________

CRITERIA YES NO

• Is the top edge flushed with the top side of the


cabinet bottom?

• Did I cut the top rail and drawer rail to the same
length as the bottom rail?

• Did I installed a short blocks of 1x2 stock in the


back joint of the top rails?

• Are all flushed joints and sharp exposed


corners sanded?

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
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INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.2-7
DRAWER CONSTRUCTION

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be


able to be familiar with the VARIOUS KINDS of JOINTS USED DRAWER
CONSTRUCTION.

Drawers are classified as overlay, lipped, and flush in the same way as doors.
In a cabinet installation, the drawer type should match the door type.

Drawer Construction

Drawer fronts are generally made from the same material as the cabinet
doors. Drawer sides and backs are generally 1/2 inch thick. They may be made of
solid lumber/ plywood, or particleboard. Medium- density fiberboard with a printed
wood grain is also manufactured for use as drawer sides and backs. The drawer
bottom is usually made of 1/4-inch plywood or hardboard. Small drawers may have
1/8-inch hardboard bottoms.

Drawer Joints

Typical joints between the front and sides of drawers are the dovetail, lock,
and rabbet joints. The dovetail joint is used in higher-quality drawer construction. It
takes a longer time to make, but is the strongest. Dovetail drawer joints may be
made using a router and a dovetail template. The lock joint is simpler. It can be
easily made using a table saw. The rabbet joint is the easiest to make. However, it
must be strengthened with fasteners in addition to glue.

Figure 52. Typical joints between drawer front and side

Date Document No.


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Joints normally used between the sides and back are the dovetail, dado and
rabbet, dado, and butt joints. With the exception of the dovetail joint, the drawer back
is usually set in at least 1/2 inch from the back ends of the sides to provide added
strength.
This helps prevents the drawer back from being pulled off if the contents get
stuck while opening the drawer.

Drawer Bottom Joints

The drawer bottom is fitted into a groove on all four sides of the drawer. In
some cases, the drawer back is made narrower, the four sides assembled, the
bottom slipped in the groove, and its back edge fastened to the bottom edge of the
drawer back.

Figure 53. Typical joints between drawer back and side

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
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Figure 54. Drawer bottom fitted in groove at drawer back.

Figure 55. Drawer bottom fastened to bottom edge of drawer back.

Date Document No.


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OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-7a
Title: Overlay Drawer
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should
be able to lay-out the wall where the
cabinet will be installed
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan
Lumber, plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Chalk Line


• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• Hand Saw
Steps/Procedure:
1. Cut the drawer sides to height and length. The height should be about 1/8
inch less than the height of the drawer opening. If metal drawer guides are used,
the height of the drawer sides depends on the type and manufacturer of the drawer
guide. Care must be taken not to make the drawer sides too long. They are usually
made 22 inches long for a standard base cabinet.

2. Dado the sides for the back and front of the drawer, 1/4 inch deep as
shown below. The dadoes are cut to the same depth so the front and back can be
cut to the same length.

Overlay drawer sides are dadoed on the front and back ends

Date Document No.


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3. Cut the false fronts and backs to width and length. The width is the same
as the drawer sides. The length determines the overall width of the drawer. The
length should be such to allow the proper clearance between the drawer sides and
the opening. This depends on t he type of drawer guides used. A clearance of 1/2
inch on each side is required for most metal side guides- If the drawers are to slide
on wood guides, generally about 1/8 inch clearance is required on each side.

4. Rabbet both ends of the false front to fit into the dado in the drawer sides.
Round off and smooth the top edges of all sides, fronts, and back.

5. Make a groove on all parts for the drawer bottom. The width of the groove
should be such that the drawer bottom will slide easily into it without being forced.
The depth of the groove should be about 1/4 inch, if 1/2-inch drawer sides are
used. If the groove is too deep, it will weaken the sides. If the groove is too
shallow, the bottom may fall out after assembly. The distance from the bottom
edge should be about 3/8 inch to the bottom of the groove (as shown below).

Location of the groove for the drawer bottom.

6. Glue and fasten the sides to the back. Slip in the bottom. Do not apply glue
to the bottom- Fasten the false front to the sides.
7. Cut and fasten the overlay front to the drawer with screws driven from
the inside. Care must be taken to position the drawer front correctly.

Date Document No.


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Plan view of the overlay drawer.

Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist

Date Document No.


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PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-7a

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________

CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I cut the drawer sides to height and
length?

• Did I dadoed the sides for the front and back of


the drawer at ¼ inch deep?

• Is the false fronts and backs cut to its width and


length?

• Did I rabbet the false front of the drawer fit to the


dado in the drawer sides?

• Are the grooves on the drawer sides fit the


bottom part of the drawer at ¼ inch deep?
• Did I allow 3/8 inch distance from the bottom edge
to the drawer to the bottom of the groove?

• Did I glued and fastened the sides of the


drawer to the back securely?
• Is the overlay front cut and fastened to the drawer
correctly with screws driven from the side?

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 90 of
2010
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Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-7b
Title: Make a Lipped Drawer
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should
be able to lay-out the wall where the
cabinet will be installed
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan
Lumber, plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Chalk Line


• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• Hand Saw
Steps/Procedure:

1. Cut the front 5/8 inch over the opening size on both the width and
length.
2. Rabbet the top and bottom edges 3/8”x3/8”.

3. On each end, make rabbets 3/8”X7/8” to allow for the overlap, the
thickness of the drawer sides, and clearance. The depth of the rabbet may
be greater if more clearance is needed (depending on the type of drawer
guide used).
4. Shape the edges and ends of the drawer front as required.

5. Assemble the drawer in a manner similar to that used for the overlay
drawer.
6. The sides are fastened to the rabbeted ends of the drawer front.

Date Document No.


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Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
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Plan view of the lipped drawer

Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 92 of
2010
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Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-7b

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________

CRITERIA YES NO
1. Did I rabbeted the top and bottom edges to 3/8”X 3/8”?

2. Did I rabbeted each end to 3/8”X7/8” allowing for the


overlap?

3. Did I assembled the drawer as required?

Date Document No.


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Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
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OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-7c
Title: Make a Flush Drawer
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should
be able to make a flush drawer
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan
Lumber, plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Chalk Line


• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• Hand Saw
Steps/Procedure:
1. Cut out the drawer front to the overall height and width of the drawer
opening.
2. Rabbet the two ends of the drawer front to receive the drawer sides
plus an allowance for side clearance. The amount of clearance depends
on the type of drawer guide used.
3. Cut out the other drawer parts.

4. Assemble in a manner similar to that used for other type drawers (as
shown below).
5. After the drawer is assembled, try it in the opening. Fit the drawer front to
the opening by hand planing/ if necessary.

Date Document No.


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Plan view of the flush drawer

Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 95 of
2010
QA Install Built-In/Pre-
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-7c

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________

CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I cut the drawer front to the overall height and
width of the drawer opening?

• Did I rabbeted the two ends of the drawer


front?

• Is the drawer fitted to the drawer opening?

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 96 of
2010
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LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 3 Assemble and install built-in and pre-
fabricate cabinet components
CONTENTS:
1. Classification of cabinet hardwares and their uses
2. Wood Filling
3. Installing built-in and/or pre-fabricated cabinets components

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA

1. Built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet assembly are


set-out in accordance with working drawings and specifications

2. Built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet assembly are


installed in accordance with working drawings and specifications

3. Finishing hardwares are installed as per working drawings


4. Unexpected situation are dealt with in accordance with company rules and
regulations
5. Housekeeping is performed according to safety regulations
6. Appropriate PPE is used according to job requirements and safety
regulations
CONDITIONS:
You must be provided with the
following:
· WORKPLACE LOCATION
· TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT · Hand Saw
· Hammer · Chalk Line
· Marking Tools · Water Hose Level
· Measuring Tools · Plumb Bob
· Screwdriver · Hand Saw
· Steel Square · PPE
· Try-square · Circular Saw
· TRAINING MATERIALS
· Leaning Packages
· Bond paper
· Ball pens
· Manuals
· Related References
ASSESSMENT METHOD
Portfolio
Demonstration

Date Document No.


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Learning Experience
ASSEMBLE AND INSTALL BUILT-IN AND PRE-FABRICATE
CABINET COMPONENTS
Learning Activities Special Instructions
1. Read Information Sheet No.
4.3-1 on Classification of
cabinet hardwares and their
uses
2. Perform Operation Sheet No. Evaluate your own work using the
4.3-1a on Installing Pulls and Performance Criteria
Knobs on Doors Present your work to your trainer
for evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the
next activities
3. Perform Operation Sheet No. Evaluate your own work using the
4.3-1b on Installing Pulls and Performance Criteria
Knobs on Doors Present your work to your trainer
for evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the
next activities
4. Perform Operation Sheet No. Evaluate your own work using the
4.3-1c on Install Magnetic Performance Criteria
and/or Friction Catches Present your work to your trainer
for evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the
next activities
5. Read Information Sheet No.
4.3-2 on Wood Filling
6. Perform Operation Sheet No. Evaluate your own work using the
4.3-2 on Apply Wood Filler Performance Criteria
Present your work to your trainer
for evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the
next activities
7. Read Information Sheet No.
4.3-3 on Installing built-in
and/or pre-fabricated
cabinets components
8. Perform Operation Sheet No. Evaluate your own work using the 4.3-3 on
Installing Metal Drawer Performance Criteria
Guides Present your work to your trainer
for evaluation; Keep a copy of your
work for the next activities

Date Document No.


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INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.3-1
CLASSIFICATION OF CABINET HARDWARE AND
THEIR USES
Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be
able to KNOW the different Classification of Cabinet Hardwares and their Uses.

1. Hinges

All hinges are used to make a movable joint between


two pieces of material. A hinge consists primarily of a pin and
two plates. There are three most commonly used hinges: full-
mortise, half-surface, and full-surface.

Figure 56. Common door hinge

a. Full-Mortise. The full-mortise hinge is cut or mortised


(gained) into both the door jamb and the door. The leaves
of a full-mortise hinge are completely hidden, leaving only
the barrel exposed when the door is closed.

Figure 57. Full-mortise hinge

b. Full-Surface. The full-surface hinge is fastened


directly to the door and jamb, and no mortise is
required. Note that the edges of the full-mortise are
beveled. The surface of the frame and door must be
flush when full-surface hinges are used.

Figure 58. Full-surface hinge

Date Document No.


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c. Half-Surface. The half-surface butt-type hinge is like the
other hinges, except that one leaf is fastened on the surface
of the door and the other leaf fits into a grain in the frame.

Figure 59. Half-surface hinge

d. Cabinet Hinges. Hinges come in many styles and finishes for every type of
cabinet. Either full-mortise, full-surface, or half-surface hinges are used for
cabinet work. A few of the designs of cabinet hinges are shown in Figure 5.

Figure 60. Cabinet hinges

e. Special Hinges. Many other types of hinges are available. Several are
shown in below.

Figure 61. Special hinges

Date Document No.


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2. Hinge Hasps

Hinge hasps are like hinges, except for the leaves. One leaf has screw holes
for fastening the hasp in place. The other leaf is longer with a slot cut near the outer
end. A metal loop, riveted to a square metal base, is used with the hinge hasp. The
base of the loop is fastened in place with four screws. The slot in the long leaf of the
hasp fits over the loop. A hinge hasp is used with a padlock as a locking device. The
long leaf of the safety hasp covers the heads of all screws when it is in the locked
position.

Figure 62. Hinge hasps

3. Locks and Striker Plates

a. Tubular Locks. Tubular locks have all the advantages of mortise locks, but
are much easier to install because they only need bored holes. They are
used mainly for interior doors for bedrooms, bathrooms, passages, and
closets. They are available with a key tumbler lock in the knob on the
outside of the door or with a turn button or push button on the inside.

Figure 63. Tubular lock

Date Document No.


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b. Cylindrical Locks. Cylindrical locks are basically the same as the tubular
type. The cylindrical lock is a sturdy, heavy-duty, and stronger lock, which is
used on exterior doors for maximum security.

Figure 64. Cylindrical lock

c. Mortise Locks. Mortise locks are used mainly on front or outside doors for
high security. The present trend is away from using mortise locks because
of the difficulty and time required to install them.

Figure 65. Mortise lock

d. Dead Bolts. Dead Bolts are used where added security is needed.
They are constructed of very hard steel.

Figure 66. Dead bolt locks

Date Document No.


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e. Rim Locks . Rim locks are easier to install because they are normally
installed on the inside surface of exterior doors. One bored hole is usually all
that is required.

Figure 67. Rim lock

f. Striker Plate. A striker plate is usually mortised into the frame of the
opening for a lock. It prevents the wood from wearing or splitting and
cannot be pried loose easily.

Figure 68. Striker plate

4. Pulls and Knobs

Cabinet pulls or knobs are used on cabinet doors and drawers. They come in
many styles and designs. They are made of metal, plastic, wood, porcelain, or other
material.

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Figure 69. A few of the many styles of pulls and knobs used on cabinet
doors and drawers.

5. Door Catches

Doors without self-closing hinges need catches to hold them closed. Catches
should be placed where they are not in the way, such as on the bottom of shelves,
instead of the top.

Kinds of Catches

• Magnetic c atches. These are widely used, available in single or double


magnets of varying holding power. An adjustable magnet is attached to the
inside of the case and a metal plate is attached to the door.

• Friction catches. Installed in similar manner to that used for magnetic catches.
Date Document No.
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• Elbow catches. These are used to hold one door of a double set. They are
released by reaching to the back side of the door. These catches arc usually
used when one of the doors is locked against the other.

• Bullet catches. These are spring loaded. They fit into the edge of the door.
When the door is closed, the catch fits into a recessed plate mounted on
the frame.

Figure 70. Kinds of catches

Date Document No.


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OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.3-1a
Title: Install Pulls and Knobs on Doors
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should
be able to install pulls and knobs
Supplies and Materials: Pulls and knobs

Tools and Equipment: 1. Hammer 5. Screwdriver


2. Marking Tools 6. Electric drill with
3. Measuring Tools drill bits
4. Try-square 7. PPE
Steps/Procedure:

1. Drill holes through the door.

2. Fasten them with machine screws from the inside.

3. When two screws are used to fasten a pull, drill holes slightly oversize in
case they are a little off center. This allows the pulls to be fastened easily
without cross-threading the screws. Usually 3/16-inch diameter holes are
drilled for 1 / 8 inch machine screws.

4. To drill holes quickly and accurately, make a template from scrap wood that
fits over the door. The template can be made so that holes can be drilled for
doors that swing in either direction (as shown below).

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
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2010
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Using a template when drilling holes for cabinet door pulls
Assessment Method: Portfolio Assessment
Performance Criteria Checklist

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 107 of
2010
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PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.3-1a

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________

CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I installed the finishing hardwares as per
working drawings?
• Are all unexpected situation dealt with in accordance
with company rules and regulations?

• Did I performed housekeeping according to safety


regulations?

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 108 of
QA Install Built-In/Pre- 2010
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.3-1b
Title: Install Pulls and Knobs on Drawers
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should
be able to install pulls and knobs
Supplies and Materials: Pulls and knobs
Tools and Equipment: 1. Hammer 5. Screwdriver
2. Marking Tools 6. Electric drill with
3. Measuring Tools drill bits
4. Try-square 7. PPE
Steps/Procedure:

1. Drill holes through the drawer.

2. Fasten them with machine screws from the inside.

3. When two screws are used to fasten a pull, drill holes slightly oversize in
case they are a little off center. This allows the pulls to be fastened easily
without cross-threading the screws. Usually 3/16-inch diameter holes are
drilled for 1 / 8 inch machine screws.

4. To drill holes quickly and accurately, make a template from scrap wood that
fits over the drawer.
5. Align the template center with the center of the drawer. By using the
template, all that is required to locate holes is to find the center of any width
drawer. The template can be made for use in drawers of different heights (as
shown below).

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 109 of
QA Install Built-In/Pre- 2010
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
Making template for quick and accurate installation of drawer
full

Assessment Method:
Portfolio Assessment
Performance Criteria Checklist

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 110 of
2010
QA Install Built-In/Pre-
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.3-1b

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________

CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I installed the finishing hardwares as per
working drawings?
• Are all unexpected situation dealt with in accordance
with company rules and regulations?

• Did I performed housekeeping according to safety


regulations?

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 111 of
QA Install Built-In/Pre- 2010
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.3-1c
Title: Install Magnetic and/or Friction Catches
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should
be able to install catches.
Supplies and Materials: Magnetic and/or Friction Catches
Tools and Equipment: 1.Hammer 5.Screwdriver
2.Marking Tools 6.Electric drill with
3.Measuring Tools drill bits
4.Try-square 7.PPE
Steps/Procedure:

1. First attach the magnet.


2. Then place the plate on the magnet.
3. Close the door and tap it opposite the plate.
4. Mark the location of plate projection on the door.
5. Attach the plate to the door where marked.
6. Try the door. Adjust the magnet, if necessary.

Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist

PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST


Date Document No.
JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 112 of
2010
QA Install Built-In/Pre-
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.3-1c

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________

CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I installed the finishing hardwares as per
working drawings?
• Are all unexpected situation dealt with in accordance
with company rules and regulations?

• Did I performed housekeeping according to safety


regulations?

INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.3-2


Date Document No.
JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 113 of
2010
QA Install Built-In/Pre-
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
WOOD FILLERS

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be


able to be familiar with the various TYPES OF WOOD FILLERS.

Wood fillers fix mistakes, fill holes and cover imperfections in a piece of
wood or woodworking project. Certain wood fillers work better in a given situation
than others and appear different on separate species of wood. Some wood filler may
also act as a glue or adhesive so that joints appear seamless within a woodworking
project.
Types of Wood Fillers

Epoxy

9. a very hard, durable wood filler that can be used to fill any sized hole from
large and gaping to tiny and minuscule
10.commonly used to fill large spaces since it doesn’t react to heat and cold by
expanding and contracting like other wood fillers
11.generally comes in two parts, in a resin and an adhesive, that mix together to
form a paste.
12.epoxy molds, shapes and stretches easily when wet, making it ideal to build
up, repair or replace extremely damaged or missing areas of wood or
woodworking projects
13.because of its durability and strength, mistakes in patching with epoxy are not
easily resolved
14.epoxy may dry clear, white or in a wood tone depending on the brand and
specific type used.

Putty
• comes in different colors and shades to match the species of wood or stain
used

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
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2010
QA Install Built-In/Pre-
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
• colors may not match perfectly, but closely resemble the wood or stain so that
no extra stain or coloring is required to cover the patch
• if a premixed color doesn’t match the damaged wood, mixing two or more
colors together may achieve the desired match
• wood putty performs best on small- to medium-sized holes

• should not be used to repair larger holes as it is not as durable as other types
of wood filler
• oil-based wood putty is available for filling small holes such as nail holes and
joints for a finished look, and remains flexible after drying.

Glue
• for small holes or imperfections in a woodworking project, a quick wood filler
is a clear drying wood glue mixed with some fine sawdust
• this method creates a patch that closely or completely resembles the original
wood.
• glue and sawdust should only be used to patch very small holes or damages,
as it will not hold up structurally or look as good on larger holes

• sawdust should be made from the existing wood if possible

Sanding Sealers

• as their name implies, these are used to seal the wood and are made for
sanding
• sanding sealers are made with zinc stearate ( a soap-like material ) which is
added so that the sandpaper will not gum up while sanding
• use after staining and prior to finish clear coat

• sanding sealers are quick drying, allowing for multiple coats in a short period
of time and a quick finishing system
• because of the stearates in them will repel some clear coat finishes
Date Document No.
JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 115 of
QA Install Built-In/Pre- 2010
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
• latex and polyurethanes in particular will not adhere well to these intermediate
clear coats
• it is important that you use a "system" of stain, sealer and clear coat that is
compatible

Shellac

• preferred for sanding sealer

• although shellac will gum up a little when sanding, it is very quick drying

• will not lift an oil based stain

• will not re-soften when varnished over

• shellac (unless "de-waxed") must be overcoated with an oil varnish

• other finishes will not adhere to shellac because of the naturally occurring wax
contained in it

Pre-Stain Sealers

· used on soft woods like pine to allow a more uniform and less freckled stained
finish
· be careful with these, you can overseal the bare wood so that it will not take
any stain.

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 116 of
2010
QA Install Built-In/Pre-
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.3-2
Title: Steps in Using Wood Filler

Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be


able to install catches.
Supplies and Materials: 1. Wood Filler
2. Paint Thinner
3. Primer
4. Large cloth
Tools and Equipment: 1. Standard 3. Sandpaper (low
2. screwdriver 4. and high grain)
Scissors or Paintbrush
Stanley knife
Steps/Procedure:

1. Sand Holes
• A nail or screw hole has to be tidied before filler can be applied
• Rotate a flat head screwdriver in the hole to be filled as this will clean it of
any immediate debris
• Use a small piece of sandpaper to gently rub away at the edges of the hole

• Be sure to cut away any loose wood fibers with a Stanley knife or small pair
of scissors
• Ignore this step and a paint layer will have visible edges on the surface after
painting

2. 2. Apply Filler
1. Get a paste-base wood filler and apply it in the neatened hole
2. Spread enough filler into the hole so a small excess will be left above the
surface
3. Sand down excess to leave a perfectly level surface to paint on
4. Do this for all the holes that need filling.
5. Do not use a liquid-based filler, as this is only required for refined grained
wood patterns
3 3. Sand Filler
1. Allow the filler to dry before any attempts are made to sand
2. Use a medium or high grain sandpaper and apply even pressure to the
areas where you have used the wood filler
3. Sand the filler as even to the surface

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 117 of
2010
QA Install Built-In/Pre-
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
4. If you do not refine the wood filler with sandpaper, the filled areas will stick
out once paint dries over them.

4. 4. Clean
1. Use a large cloth and some hot water to gently wipe over the surface you
have been working on
2. Alternatively, use a small amount of paint thinner on the cloth to strip away
any flaky areas of paint and woodwork
3. Allow the water or thinner to dry and check that the debris has been cleared

5. Check
1. Run your hand over the top of the surface that will be painted; it should feel
smooth and even over the entire area
2. Sand away any lumps you come across
3. Carefully check the surface for any small holes you may have missed and
apply extra wood filler accordingly.
4. Apply a layer of primer with a large paintbrush and you are ready to paint
once it has dried.

Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 118 of
QA Install Built-In/Pre- 2010
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.3-2

Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________

CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I filled all holes and covered wood
imperfections using wood filler?
• Are all top of surfaces covered with wood filler sanded
smooth?

• Did I performed housekeeping according to safety


regulations?
• Did I used appropriate PPE according to job
requirements and safety regulations?

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 119 of
2010
QA Install Built-In/Pre-
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.3-3 INSTALLING
BUILT-IN AND/OR PRE -FABRICATED CABINETS
COMPONENTS

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be


able to be familiar INSTALLING BUILT-IN AND/OR PRE-FABRICATED
CABINETS COMPONENTS

Drawer Guides

There are many ways of guiding drawers. The type of drawer guide selected
affects the size of the drawer. The drawer must be supported level and guided
sideways. It must also be kept from tilting down when opened.

Figure 71. Wood drawer guides are installed in several ways.

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 120 of
QA Install Built-In/Pre- 2010
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
Wood Guides

Probably the simplest wood guide is the center strip. It is installed in the
bottom center of the opening from front to back. The strip projects above the bottom
of the opening about 1/4 inch. The bottom edge of the drawer back is notched to ride
in the guide. A kicker is installed. It is centered above the drawer to keep it from
tilting downward when opened.

Figure 72. Simple center wood drawer guide. The back of the drawer is
notched to run on the guide
Another type of wood guide is the grooved center strip. The strip is placed in
the center of the opening from front to back. A matching strip is fastened to the
drawer bottom. In addition to guiding the drawer, this system keeps it from tilting
when opened, eliminating the need for drawer kickers.

Figure 73. the grooved center wood drawer guide eliminates the need of
a kicker.

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 121 of
2010
QA Install Built-In/Pre-
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
Another type of wood guide is a rabbeted strip. Strips are used on each side
of the drawer opening. The drawer sides fit into and slide along the rabbeted pieces.
Sometimes these guides are made up of two pieces instead of rabbeting one piece.
A kicker above the drawer is necessary with this type guide.

Figure 74. Rabbeted wood guides are installed on each side of the
drawer.

Metal Drawer Guides

There are many different types of metal drawer guides. Some have a single
track mounted on the bottom center of the opening- Others may be centered above
or on each side of the drawer. Nylon rollers mounted on the drawer ride in the track
of the guide.

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 122 of
QA Install Built-In/Pre- 2010
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
Figure 75. Installing metal drawer guides

Instructions for installation differ with each type and manufacturer. When
using commercially made drawer guides, read the instructions first before making the
drawer so proper allowances for the drawer guide can be made.

Date Document No.


JZGMSAT Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22, Page 123 of
2010
QA Install Built-In/Pre-
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____