Trends in Food Science & Technology 95 (2020) 21–32

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Trends in Food Science & Technology

journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/tifs

Feeding the skin: A new trend in food and cosmetics convergence T

a b a a a
Catarina Faria-Silva , Andreia Ascenso , Ana M. Costa , Joana Marto , Manuela Carvalheiro ,
Helena Margarida Ribeiroa, Sandra Simõesa,∗
a
Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.ULisboa), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, Avenida Professor Gama Pinto, 1649-003, Lisboa, Portugal
b
Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, Avenida Professor Gama Pinto, 1649-003, Lisboa, Portugal

ARTICLE INFO ABSTRACT

Keywords: Background: The convergence of food and cosmetics in the beauty industry is a major trend in the recent years,
Nutricosmetics gaining an enormous importance on consumer habits including the diet, the nutritional supplement intake and
Food and skin food-based cosmetics.
Antioxidants Scope and approach: An overview about the concept of nutricosmetics is here presented, and how food and skin
Food science
convergence trends the cosmetic industry. Examples of recently developed products are given.
Key findings: Food ingredients are being included in cosmetics and other personal care products with the aim of
bringing into cosmetic products certain benefits of food ingredients. Moreover, due to the recommendation of
the circular economy implementation, an approach to economic growth that is in line with sustainable en-
vironmental and economic development, a large number of food industry wastes are being recovered as added-
value products by more sustainable and innovative extraction processes to be incorporated into cosmetic pro-
ducts amongst others. Although the potential of bioactive compounds extracted from food is already known, the
specific biological activity is now being studied and reported.
Conclusions: Natural active food-derived ingredients are marketed as having several benefits on the skin. Their
incorporation in food supplements and cosmetics is a reality already marketed. The truth about the benefits of
food ingredients in cosmetics is not always properly discussed. The trend of “beauty from within” by oral
supplementation is now accompanying the other trend that is “from the kitchen table to the skin”, that refers to
the possibility to create cosmetics with the ordinary ingredients one have in the kitchen.

1. Introduction 2012; Feetham et al., 2018; Kligman, 2006; Reed, 1962).

Nowadays, consumers are driving innovation in cosmetics through
the use of safe ingredients. They have increasingly preferred cosmetics
made of natural ingredients with active functions on their skin and
would prefer to pay more for a cosmetic that promises more skin ben-
efits (Draelos, 2019). Food-derived ingredients have been explored to
obtain “healthier” cosmetics (Anunciato & da Rocha Filho, 2012).
The concept of “Cosmeceutical” was first described in 1962 by
Raymond Reed (Reed, 1962) and spread in 1980s by Albert Kligman
(Kligman, 2006) based on scientific research of tretinoin administration
for ultraviolet radiation (UV)-damaged skin (Feetham, Jeong, McKesey,
Wickless, & Jacobe, 2018). Cosmeceuticals are topical products with
effects on both skin appearance and functioning. These products are
more than a simple cosmetic, being a mixture of “cosmetic” and
“pharmaceutical”. Scientifically, cosmeceuticals have similar properties
to pharmaceuticals, and thus, have a lasting effect through a physio-
logical and/or pharmacological action (Anunciato & da Rocha Filho,
Other concepts have appeared along time as “Nutraceuticals” and
“Nutricosmetics” (Fig. 1). Nutraceuticals were defined by DeFelice et al.
(DeFelice, 1995), as “any food or part of a food that provides medical or
health benefits”. This concept started to gain more attention in the 80s
with the discussion of the food components benefits and the role on
human health of each active component (Anunciato & da Rocha Filho,
2012; DeFelice, 1995). These active agents were regarded as key ele-
ments in the skin protection from damage and antiageing effects
(Pearson, 2018).
Nutricosmetics can be described “as the consumption of food or oral
supplements to produce an appearance benefit and are also called
‘‘beauty pills,’’ ‘‘beauty from within,’’ and even ‘‘oral cosmetics’’
(Anunciato & da Rocha Filho, 2012; Pearson, 2018).
All these concepts have arisen due the perception that we are sur-
rounded of food capable of having effects in human body including
skin. For example, fruits and vegetables have many variable anti-
oxidants (Lademann, Meinke, Sterry, & Darvin, 2011).

∗
Corresponding author.
E-mail address: ssimoes@ff.ulisboa.pt (S. Simões).

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tifs.2019.11.015
Received 25 June 2019; Received in revised form 3 October 2019; Accepted 5 November 2019
Available online 15 November 2019
0924-2244/ © 2019 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
C. Faria-Silva, et al.
List of abbreviations
CO2 Carbon dioxide
CS Cynara scolymus L.
DPPH 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl
ECM Extracellular matrix
GAGs Glycosaminoglycans
GCO Green coffee oil
HA Hyaluronic acid
IL Interleukin
More recently, several research groups have started to process plant
and food waste to obtain new sources of active agents, mostly anti-
oxidants, antimicrobials and antiageing compounds to be incorporated
in cosmetic products. This has led to the selective extraction of mainly
phytochemicals from natural material, such as vegetables, creating the
opportunity to substitute synthetic chemicals that are currently in use
in cosmetic industry (Fig. 2) (Peixoto et al., 2018). This is a growing
market that promises to improve our general health as well as ecolo-
gical recycling issues (Taeymans, Clarys, & Barel, 2014, pp. 583–596).
In fact, efficient and low-cost re-use of industrial by-products for high
added-value products in the context of health and well-being represents
a real societal challenge from the technological, economic and ecolo-
gical point of view.
2. “Beauty from the inside”
The benefit of ingesting products for a healthy lifestyle is gaining a
growing impact in the consciousness of individual possibility to pro-
mote beauty from within. “Feeling healthy” and “looking good” are
concepts much more overlapped. Nutrient is any substance that is ab-
sorbed and either provides energy or enables growth, repairs or proper
functioning of the body. Nutrients are divided in different categories
like minerals, vitamins, proteins, carbohydrates, lipids and water (Jew
et al., 2015). In this review, food-derived nutrients will be designated as
dietary ingredients obtained from food, able to have an effect on the
body. An important benefit taken from dietary ingredients is the anti-
oxidant effect, more pronounced in certain type of food products. The
antioxidants are widely known to help neutralizing free radicals within
the body, and this is thought to ameliorate overall health.
Cellular metabolism, irradiation with UV, visible and infrared (IR)
light produce reactive oxygen species (ROS), that can react with DNA,
proteins and fatty acids (Ascenso, Ribeiro, Marques, & Simoes, 2011;
Lademann et al., 2011; Taeymans et al., 2014, pp. 583–596). ROS are
deeply associated with skin aging especially at a critical concentration
range (Pearson, 2018). However, the human body protects itself with
endogenous and exogenous antioxidants. A coordinated system
Fig. 1. Cosmeceutical vs Nutraceutical vs Nutricosmetic.
22
Trends in Food Science & Technology 95 (2020) 21–32
IR Infrared radiation
MMP Matrix metallopeptidase
NF-kB nuclear factor-kappaB
ROS Reactive Oxygen Species
SCG Spent coffee grounds
SMA smooth muscle actin
SPF Sun protection factor
TNF Tumor necrosis factor
UV Ultraviolet radiation
comprising enzymes and other proteins and low molecular weight
compounds, both hydrophilic and hydrophobic, is involved in the
protection against ROS toxicity (Ascenso et al., 2011; Lademann et al.,
2011).
From all dietary ingredients, those presenting antioxidant properties
(among others), have a crucial role, themselves or synergistically
combined, in skin protection from oxidative stress besides improving
skin structural characteristics (Afaq & Mukhtar, 2006; Andreassi &
Andreassi, 2003; Lademann et al., 2011). The oxidative stress can be
measured under normal cell metabolism and through exposure to toxins
and pollutants, inflammation and UV-damage (Ascenso et al., 2011).
Although some results from in vitro and in vivo reports remain con-
troversial in literature, the main and generally accepted biological
properties on skin cells by antioxidants are summarized in Table 1.
These properties justify their inclusion in cosmetic formulations with
specific claims, as described in section 3.
2.1. Vitamins
Vitamins have an important role on skin health. Vitamin C (L-as-
corbic acid, the active form) is a potent hydrophilic antioxidant able to
scavenge and quench free radicals, commonly found in raw red and
green peppers, oranges, acerola, grapefruits, kiwi, strawberries, broc-
coli and Brussels sprouts (Souyoul, Saussy, & Lupo, 2018). Furthermore,
it is a potent anti-inflammatory agent through the inhibition of nuclear
factor-kappaB (NF-kB) (Pearson, 2018), and its active form is essential
for collagen biosynthesis (Taeymans et al., 2014, pp. 583–596).
Vitamin E (α-tocopherol as the active form) is a hydrophobic vi-
tamin that can be found mainly in nuts, seeds, vegetables, corn, soy and
margarine (Draelos, 2010). It works as an antioxidant defense of the
skin, as it absorbs UV light (Taeymans et al., 2014, pp. 583–596). Oral
supplementation of vitamin E for 8 weeks showed a significant increase
of vitamin E concentration in the skin even though the effect on in-
dicators of oxidative tissue damage in the skin was insignificant
(McArdle et al., 2004). If oxidized, vitamin E can be regenerated to the
reduced form by vitamin C (Draelos, 2010; Taeymans et al., 2014, pp.
583–596). Different studies showed that vitamins C and E supple-
mentation promoted higher effect in decreasing UV-induced skin da-
mage than vitamin C alone (Fuchs & Kern, 1998; Pullar et al., 2017),
probably due to vitamin E regeneration.
Vitamin B3 (niacin) is obtained from meat, fish, milk, egg and nuts,
and acts also as antioxidant. In vitro, it increased collagen production
and dermal elasticity and reduced inflammation, acting as an anti-
ageing nutrient (Draelos, 2019; Taeymans et al., 2014, pp. 583–596).
Retinol is a vitamin A form, obtained from animal sources
(Taeymans et al., 2014, pp. 583–596). It can be mainly found in liver
and fish oils. Milk and eggs are other sources. It is involved in epidermal
differentiation, modulation of dermal growth factors, regulation of se-
baceous gland activity and suppression of androgen formation
(Pearson, 2018).
C. Faria-Silva, et al.
Fig. 3. Left panel: Photographs of the evolution of wrinkle reduction (from day 0 (D0) to day 28 (D28) in two volunteers (Vol #7 and Vol #32), showing the anti-
wrinkle effect of an O/W emulsion with donkey milk, pomegranate extract and a SPF of 20. Right panel: Photographs of skin colour homogeneity (on day 0 (D0) and
on day 28 (D28) after topical application the same formulation. Skin colour homogeneity is higher on D28. Photographs are experimental data from Baltazar et al.,
2017. (For interpretation of the references to colour in this figure legend, the reader is referred to the Web version of this article.)
2.2. Carotenoids
Carotenoids are obtained from vegetable source and are usually
present in orange, red and yellow foods (Draelos, 2010). Humans with
high carotenoid levels have a younger skin appearance (Lademann
et al., 2011). Beta-carotene, lycopene, lutein and zeaxanthin are ex-
amples of carotenoids that play an UV photoprotection by scavenging
ROS (Anunciato & da Rocha Filho, 2012). As these molecules cannot be
synthesized by humans, their ingestion is essential (Fiedor & Burda,
2014). Beta-carotene is a precursor of vitamin A able to inhibit free
radicals (Evans & Johnson, 2010). It can be mainly found in orange
fruits and vegetables and green leafy vegetables (Evans & Johnson,
2010). β-carotene accumulates in the skin, protecting it against UV-
induced erythema, and thus, it is widely used as oral supplement for sun
protection (Anunciato & da Rocha Filho, 2012).
Lutein and zeaxanthin accumulate mainly in the macula lutea,
having an antioxidant activity against UV light (Anunciato & da Rocha
Filho, 2012). Nevertheless, these molecules can be also found in skin as
blue light blockers and antioxidants (Juturu, Bowman, & Deshpande,
2016). Green leafy vegetables and eggs are the main source of these two
carotenoids (Souyoul et al., 2018).
Lycopene is a non vitamin A precursor present in most red color
fruits and vegetables (Draelos, 2010), being tomato the food with one of
the highest lycopene concentration. Lycopene exhibits multiple bioac-
tive roles (Palozza et al., 2011). The ingestion of 40 g of a tomato paste
(with 16 mg of lycopene) was able to reduce UV-induced erythema by
40% (Stahl et al., 2006), proving their photoprotection activity. Ac-
cordingly, researchers have previously evaluated the effect of lycopene
pre-exposure on UV-B irradiated human keratinocytes, and concluded
that depending on the level of photodamage, lycopene plays a correc-
tive role in irradiated cells (Ascenso et al., 2016). In vitro studies have
also shown that the anti-inflammatory effect of lycopene complements
the antioxidant action of ascorbic acid and α-tocopherol (Hazewindus
et al., 2012).
2.3. Polyphenols
Polyphenols have a high antioxidant activity and are present in our
23
Trends in Food Science & Technology 95 (2020) 21–32
Fig. 2. Conversion of food-industry residues
into added-value products to be used in
cosmetic industry.
diet, as fruits, vegetables, cereals, chocolate, coffee, tea and wine
(Anunciato & da Rocha Filho, 2012; Souyoul et al., 2018).
Curcumin, a polyphenol from turmeric spice has antioxidant ac-
tivity by quenching free radicals and anti-inflammatory activity by in-
hibiting NF-kB (Draelos, 2010; Pearson, 2018). Its potential to slow
down ageing process by suppressing age-related changes in in-
flammatory indices in albino Wistar rats was demonstrated (Shailaja,
Damodara Gowda, Vishakh, & Suchetha Kumari, 2017). Although the
role of curcumin in health has been described by several studies and
even reviewed by some authors (Nagpal & Sood, 2013) there is scarcity
of information and research in its application in the cosmetic field.
Tea polyphenols (mainly epicatechins), present in highest amount in
the green tea (Draelos, 2010), are able to prevent UV-B-induced in-
flammation and diminishes oxidative stress (Katiyar, 2003). Katiyar
have studied the effect of topical treatment or oral consumption of
green tea polyphenols in inhibiting skin carcinogenesis, either chemi-
cally induced or UV radiation-induced in different laboratory animal
models (Katiyar, 2003). Through a regular consumption for 12 weeks,
polyphenols reduced 25% the UV-induced erythema and improved skin
structural characteristics as elasticity, roughness, scaling and density
(Heinrich, Moore, De Spirt, Tronnier, & Stahl, 2011).
Grapes are highly rich in polyphenols too, namely anthocyanins,
flavonols and proanthocyanidins as flavonoids and hydroxybenzoic
acids, hydroxycinnamates and stilbenoids (e.g. resveratrol) as non fla-
vonoids (Giovinazzo & Grieco, 2015). Its seeds, skin and stems can be
obtained during wine production and have many phenolic compounds
with antioxidant, antitumor, antiageing, antimicrobial (Baharfar,
Azimi, & Mohseni, 2015) and anti-inflammatory activities (Peixoto
et al., 2018). It is though that the proanthocyadins present in the seed
extracts protect the skin from UV radiation (Nichols & Katiyar, 2011).
2.4. Minerals
Copper, zinc and selenium are minerals present in food products
with important roles in skin function.
Cooper can be found in nuts, seeds, seafood, meat and grains
(Souyoul et al., 2018). It promotes keratinocyte and fibroblast pro-
liferation which will contribute for skin rejuvenation through its
 C. Faria-Silva, et al.

Table 1
Summary of biological properties of most common antioxidants used for cosmetic purpose.
Antioxidant Effect on Skin Reference

Vitamin L-ascorbic acid - cofactor for a family of biosynthetic and gene regulatory enzymes (Carr & Maggini, 2017; Pullar, Carr, & Vissers, 2017; Taeymans et al.,
- supports epithelial barrier function in epidermis layer via modulating signaling and biosynthetic pathways of skin lipids 2014, pp. 583–596)
- increases collagen level in dermis
- increases collagen gene expression in fibroblasts
- regulates the expression of various wound healing mediators
- promotes fibroblast proliferation and migration
- anti-inflammatory and immunologic activities
α-Tocopherol - reduces UVB-induced lipid peroxidation (Caddeo et al., 2018; Fiume et al., 2018)
- regulates the SC lipid homeostasis, recovering the physical integrity of the penetration barrier
- synergistic effect with L-ascorbic acid among other antioxidants
Retinol - reduces wrinkles, fine lines and hyperpigmentation by peeling action (Green, Gostomski, Edison, Chua, & Sadick, 2017; Rouvrais,
- regulates cell metabolism in the epidermis Baspeyras, Mengeaud, & Rossi, 2018)
- triggers the production of collagen and elastin fibers
Carotenoid Beta- Carotene - protects proteins, lipids and DNA from oxidation (Ascenso et al., 2014; Fazekas et al., 2003; Hazewindus, Haenen,
And Lycopene - modulates redox sensitive cell targets Weseler, & Bast, 2012; Lademann et al., 2011; Milani, Basirnejad,

24
- induces gap-junctions communications Shahbazi, & Bolhassani, 2017; Palozza et al., 2011; Stahl, Heinrich,
- exhibits retinoid-like activity Aust, Tronnier, & Sies, 2006)
- regulates cell proliferation and apoptosis.
Polyphenol Curcumin - antioxidant, immunomodulatory, anti-inflammatory, and antiseptic (X. Liu et al., 2019; Pagano, Romano, Izzo, & Borrelli, 2018; Yen
- regenerates skin through TNF-α, MMP-9, α-SMA, and collagen modulation et al., 2018)
- skin brightening agent
Flavonoids (e.g., Rutin; - antioxidant (Anazco et al., 2018; Nunes et al., 2018; Panche, Diwan, & Chandra,
Quercetin; Apigenin) - photoprotector 2016)
- antiseptic and antibacterial
- stabilizes dermal collagen in interstitial matrix
- promotes wound healing
Trends in Food Science & Technology 95 (2020) 21–32
C. Faria-Silva, et al.
important role on collagen production being a cofactor in enzymatic
reactions during collagen crosslinking with lysyl oxidase (Pearson,
2018). Its anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties are the ra-
tional for its inclusion in topical treatments for wound healing (Driscoll,
Kwon, Skupsky, Kwon, & Grant-Kels, 2010).
Zinc is an important cofactor for cellular activity and defense and
protects against lipid peroxidation, UV-induced cytotoxicity (Souyoul
et al., 2018). Is used as a supplement in the treatment of certain der-
matologic conditions (Driscoll et al., 2010) for its anti-inflammatory
activity and UV radiation protection (Pearson, 2018). It is essential for
skin function, being a necessary element for epidermal proliferation and
keratinocyte differentiation (Driscoll et al., 2010). Whole grains, red
meat, seafood and cereals have a high zinc content (Souyoul et al.,
2018).
Selenium is found in animal proteins as meat and seafood (Souyoul
et al., 2018). It is considered an essential mineral responsible for cell
membrane stabilization and defense against DNA damage. More spe-
cifically, selenium promotes the elimination of damaging lipid hydro-
peroxides formed during oxidative stress (Souyoul et al., 2018). Sele-
nium effects on skin photoageing remain unclear and were found to be
dependent on the selenium form used (Taeymans et al., 2014, pp.
583–596).
2.5. Omegas
Essential fatty acids are long-chain polyunsaturated fatty acids
being divided in omega-3 (derived from linolenic acid) and omega-6
(derived from linoleic acid). These ingredients are mainly present in
oils, as canola oil, cold-water fish, nuts and seeds, and can reduce UV-
induced inflammation (Draelos, 2010; Souyoul et al., 2018). In addi-
tion, they contribute for cell membranes’ structure, flexibility and
functioning, being involved in the synthesis of intracellular lipids in the
stratum corneum (Szyszkowska, Łepecka-Klusek, Kozłowicz, Jazienicka,
& Krasowska, 2014). A fish oil supplement, rich in omega-3, consumed
during 3 months, reduced UV-B-induced inflammation (Draelos, 2010).
2.6. Amino acids and peptides
Bioactive peptides used for cosmetic formulations are usually de-
rived from collagen with increased bioavailability and solubility com-
pared to the whole protein. While most food sources contain anti-
oxidants and other elements to improve the synthesis of collagen, bone
broth is one of the rare foods which actually contains a bioavailable
form of collagen. In addition, bone matrix component is also composed
by glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), chondroitin sulfate, keratin sulfate and
hyaluronic acid (HA) (Siebecker, 2005). Collagen is one of the most
abundant proteins in humans present in all tissues. At least, 28 different
types of collagen were discovered (Ricard-Blum, 2011). Collagen types I
and III constitute 90% of the dermis, being essential for delaying skin
aging (Avila Rodríguez, Rodríguez Barroso, & Sánchez, 2018). Collagen
has a structural function and it is the major component of skin extra-
cellular matrix (ECM) (Raab, Yatskayer, Lynch, Manco, & Oresajo,
2017). However, it is though that proteins like collagen are degraded
into amino acids in the digestion, questioning its efficacy as an oral
supplement (D. Liu, Nikoo, Boran, Zhou, & Regenstein, 2015). There-
fore, the most common way to obtain collagen is through nutritional
supplements, namely of fish collagen hydrolysates, where its efficacy
has already been proved on skin properties (Choi et al., 2014; D.; Liu
et al., 2015). Oral administration of collagen peptides has also revealed
to provide protection on UV-damaged skin (Tanaka, Koyama, &
Nomura, 2009).
HA fills the space around collagen fibers (Raab et al., 2017) being
essential for skin health by retaining water (Papakonstantinou, Roth, &
Karakiulakis, 2012) and for skin antiageing as it maintains elasticity,
firmness and volume of skin layers (Raab et al., 2017).
Bioactive proteins such as collagen, elastin and fibronectin, interfere
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Trends in Food Science & Technology 95 (2020) 21–32
in wrinkle repair, skin thickening and skin firming which supports
antiageing claims of commercial formulations based on these actives
(Pérez-Sánchez, Barrajón-Catalán, Herranz-López, & Micol, 2018).
Furthermore, they are also able to modulate melanin synthesis and
stimulate lipolysis besides other properties (Lintner, 2007).
3. Nutricosmetics - a way to add value to cosmetic formulations
The regular consumption of fruits and vegetables rich in biologically
active ingredients is pointed to be one of the best strategies against skin
aging (Lademann et al., 2011). Nutritional supplements can improve
skin structure and function due their antioxidant protection, anti-in-
flammatory activity, photoprotection properties, collagen synthesis and
skin cell turnover (Pearson, 2018). Nutricosmetics idea appears as a
combination of nutrition, health and cosmetics using functional foods
and nutraceuticals (Madhere & Simpson, 2010). The “beauty from
within” can be provided by either oral supplements, beauty foods or
antiageing cocktails. The followers of this concept believe that a
“beautiful face is a healthy body” (Madhere & Simpson, 2010). The
advantage of oral supplementation is based on the dietary ingredients
delivery to all skin layers (Pearson, 2018). More recently, the idea of
supplementing the skin from the outside is gaining more impact
(Ascenso et al., 2013; Carneiro et al., 2011). Cosmetics industry clearly
understood the potential of food-based ingredients. However, do
dietary ingredients added to cosmetics have a measurable effect on of
skin, hair and nails health and appearance? Ingredients can be suitably
formulated, topically applied and successfully delivered on the skin,
depending on the type of formulation. Deep skin absorption can be
modulated based on formulations containing skin penetration en-
hancers. In other cases, skin supplementation is intended to occur at a
cutaneous superficial level. For example, lipid supplementation is in-
tended in the case of dry skin or skin barrier impairment management
(Carneiro et al., 2011). Vitamin C is better absorbed through topical
application rather than internally, and when topically applied, this vi-
tamin can provide additional UV-B protection in a sunscreen formula-
tion (Pullar et al., 2017).
Therefore, several examples of research and commercial cosmetic
formulations based on these dietary ingredients are presented below in
the context of main skin alterations.
3.1. Skin aging
The process of aging is due to both intrinsic and extrinsic factors.
Intrinsic factors are basically mediated by genetics, while the extrinsic
factors are caused by environmental factors, such as smoking, wind,
chemical exposure and UV radiation. In the skin, it causes dryness,
laxity, roughness, skin atrophy, wrinkles, pigmentation, telangiectasias,
weakening of the dermoepidermal junction, and reduction of dermal
thickness and decrease of dermal vascularity (Rokhsar, Lee, &
Fitzpatrick, 2005). In addition, dermal fibroblasts also produce less
collagen due to UV light exposure (Rokhsar et al., 2005) and, as part of
natural aging process, collagen fibers start to get damaged by matrix
metalloproteinases (MMPs) (Panwar et al., 2018), as well as there is a
decrease of HA in epidermis causing loss of skin moisture which in turn
leads to skin aging (Papakonstantinou et al., 2012).
An example of HA skin supplementation is the clinical study con-
ducted by Raab et al. where a facial serum containing HA, proxylane,
purple rice extract, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate enhanced HA
synthesis in vivo, and skin hydration. Skin hydration improvement in
photodamaged skin was also observed (Raab et al., 2017).
Rice-derived products are often introduced in cosmetic products,
however, most of the times in combination with other ingredients (Raab
et al., 2017). In a recent study, rice water presented in vitro biological
antioxidant activity comparable to that of ascorbic acid and remarkable
elastase inhibition activity (Marto et al., 2018).
Coffee is one of the most important food commodities worldwide
C. Faria-Silva, et al.
and green coffee beans are a rich source of phenolic compounds, mainly
found in the form of chlorogenic acids, which are ester derivatives of
trans-cinnamic acids and quinic acids (International Coffee
Organization, 2017). In a recent study, bioactive extracts obtained from
spent coffee grounds (SCG) by subcritical water extraction were ana-
lyzed for phenolic acids, carbohydrates, antioxidant activity (AA)
measured by the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay, ROS
scavenging activity in keratinocyte cells, and elastase and tyrosinase
inhibitory activity. Bioactive SCG extracts collected up to 140 °C had
higher phenolic acids content, higher AA, and lower carbohydrate
content than the fraction collected from 140 to 220 °C. The extracts
were proven to have antiageing and skin lightning effects by inhibiting
elastase and tyrosinase activity (Ribeiro et al., 2018).
Topical vitamin C was investigated on aging according to the pa-
pillary index (Sauermann, Jaspers, Koop, & Wenck, 2004). Authors
have found that vitamin C has the potential to enhance the density of
dermal papillae and discussed the results obtained in terms of an an-
giogenesis based mechanism (Sauermann et al., 2004). Its use is widely
spread in the cosmetic industry. The concomitant use of collagen and
vitamin C was able to protect against intrinsic oxidative stress-induced
skin atrophy (Shibuya et al., 2014), suggesting a synergism between
peptides and vitamin C.
Plant oils have been used for centuries most of the times integrated
in cosmetics as excipients. Their recognition regarding the effects on
skin repair and on skin diseases is rising (Lin, Zhong, & Santiago, 2017).
Olive oil received great attention in recent years and has been in-
tegrated in advanced systems with antiageing purposes (Mota et al.,
2018), potentiating its photoprotective effect by modern science.
Olive + M® produces olive oil-based skin and body products claimed to
be “food for the skin”. Other brands, as Innéov, have different nu-
tricosmetics launched. An Anti-Age Firming commercial formulation is
composed by lacto-lycopene (similar to tomato lycopene), soy iso-
flavones and vitamin C. In a clinical trial performed by the brand re-
searchers, a nutricosmetic formulation (not specified) composed by
probiotic and carotenoid, revealed to have a positive influence in skin
photoaging (Bouilly-Gauthier et al., 2010; Taeymans et al., 2014, pp.
583–596). Other examples comprise liposomal formulations with vi-
tamin C and HA (C-Vit from Sesderma) or a cosmetic with retinol, HA
and vitamin B3 (Retises 0.25% Gel from Sesderma), among others.
SkinCeuticals have combined 15% vitamin C, 1% vitamin E and 0.5%
ferulic acid in an antiageing cream (C E Ferulic®). Filorga has a patented
complex, named New Cellular Treatment Factor (NCTF) composed by
amino acids, vitamins, coenzymes, minerals, antioxidants and HA, with
claims for all skin aging signals (wrinkles, firmness, luminosity, pores,
and hydration).
3.2. Skin pigmentation
Melanin is the pigment produced in melanosomes, by melanocytes,
in a process called melanogenesis. After production, melanosomes are
transferred to the keratinocytes around the melanocytes (Videira,
Moura, & Magina, 2013). Hyperpigmentation is due to excessive mel-
anin production and can be caused by genetic causes, UV radiation,
female sex hormones and inflammation processes (Lee, 2015).
Proanthocyanidins present in the grape seeds, can reduce skin hy-
perpigmentation caused by melasma (Anunciato & da Rocha Filho,
2012). Caudalie, a cosmetic brand, has a product line formulated with
viniferine, a polyphenol from the grapevine sap, which is claimed to be
62 times more efficient than vitamin C in reducing hyperpigmentation
(Thomas, 2015).
Retinoids reduce hyperpigmentation, either by stimulating kerati-
nocyte turnover, which will cause melanin loss, or by reducing mela-
nosome transfer. These bioactive molecules also inhibit tyrosinase
transcription and thus, interfering with melanin synthesis (Vashi &
Kundu, 2013).
Vitamin C can also stop melanin production (Draelos, 2019), due to
26
Trends in Food Science & Technology 95 (2020) 21–32
antioxidant properties of scavenging free radicals (Rokhsar et al.,
2005). As topical vitamin C is unstable, it is usually substituted by its
derivatives (Sarkar, Arora, & Garg, 2013). One of its derivatives,
magnesium phosphate ascorbyl, decreased melanin synthesis in in vitro
and in vivo studies. It is thought that it may interfere with tyrosinase, an
enzyme essential in the process of melanogenesis (Pullar et al., 2017).
Vitamin B3 can also reduce hyperpigmentation, as it interferes in the
interaction between keratinocytes and melanocytes, inhibiting mela-
nogenesis and the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to the
keratinocytes (Sarkar et al., 2013; Vashi & Kundu, 2013). Accordingly,
a clinical trial with 5% niacinamide moisturizer was able to reduce
hyperpigmentation (Hakozaki et al., 2002). Vitamin E causes de-
pigmentation through lipid peroxidation of melanocyte membranes,
which enhances intracellular glutathione content which in turn will
inhibit tyrosinase (Sarkar et al., 2013).
The concomitant use of these ingredients is quite common in cos-
metic industry due to higher effect on skin pigmentation. Commercial
examples are Melascreen Eclat from Ducray combining vitamins C and
B3, and D-Pigment from Avène with vitamin A derivative and vitamin E
precursor.
3.3. UV protection
UV radiations can have both harmful and beneficial effects on
human skin. The incidence of melanoma and non-melanoma skin
cancer associated to UV radiation has been increasing worldwide (Lucas
et al., 2019). UV radiations activate the cutaneous immune system,
which leads to an inflammatory response by different mechanisms
(Mohania et al., 2017).
In spite of the general knowledge about food-derived products with
UV protective action, only few studies have investigated the potential of
herbal products to effectively protect the skin against the harmful sun
rays (Kapoor & Saraf, 2009). Authors found that commercial sunscreen
formulations containing cucumber, basil, wheat germ, olive derived-
ingredients have enough potential to protect skin from UV-induced
damages (Kapoor & Saraf, 2009).
The UV blocking potential of various natural oils like coconut oil,
olive oil, soya bean oil was tested, and results indicated that it was
insufficient to obtain a significant UV protection, when compared with
commercial sun blockers (Gause & Chauhan, 2016). However, for-
mulations containing purple carrot showed good UV blocking proper-
ties (Gause & Chauhan, 2016). Cosmetic emulsions composed of carrot
seed oil were tested for sun protection and have shown potential to be
used as skin rejuvenating agents (Singh, Lohani, Mishra, & Verma,
2019). Topical almond oil was tested in mice skin and was found to be
capable of preventing structural damages caused by UV irradiation
(Sultana, Kohli, Athar, Khar, & Aqil, 2007). A study from 2000 de-
monstrated that raspberry seed oil showed absorbance in the UV-B and
UV-C ranges with potential to be used as a broad spectrum UV protector
(Oomah, Ladet, Godfrey, Liang, & Girard, 2000). Rice bran oil and
raspberry seed oil were co-formulated in lipid nanocarriers into creams
and such composition permitted to increase the sunscreen effect of the
chemical filters incorporated in the formulation (Niculae et al., 2014).
Green coffee oil (GCO), a rich source of antioxidants and poly-
phenols, has arisen as a potential candidate to combine natural and
multifunctional compounds (Marto et al., 2016). A novel sunscreen
formulation with a high UVA and UVB protection, biological activity
and better tolerability was designed based on the Pickering emulsions
concept. GCO was associated to UV physical absorbers (TiO2 and ZnO)
at lower concentrations and with particles larger than 100 nm in a
starch Pickering emulsion. This formulation showed a sun protection
factor (SPF) improvement by the presence of both starch particles and
GCO (Marto et al., 2016). The use of GCO as a potential natural product
for improving SPF in sunscreens formulations would allow the decrease
of the concentration of chemical filters in sunscreen formulations
(Chiari et al., 2014).
C. Faria-Silva, et al.
Extracts of Cynara scolymus L. (globe artichoke) presented about
30 mg of polyphenols (namely cynarin, chlorogenic acid and cymaro-
side) per 100 g of extract, becoming a rich source of polyphenols
(Marques et al., 2017). These extracts were incorporated in topical
formulations and were tested in vitro for antioxidant and sun protection
potential. The results showed a powerful ROS scavenging effect of the
formulation and photoprotective activity (Marques et al., 2017).
A topical formulation based on an O/W emulsion was developed to
provide a broad-spectrum (UV-A and UV-B) protection and dress signs
of skin aging by combining different cosmetic ingredients: donkey milk
(with high whey protein content), pomegranate extract and UV filters
(SPF 20) (Baltazar, Marto, Berger, Pinto, & Ribeiro, 2017). The anti-
ageing efficacy of this synergistic blend was assessed by imaging, bio-
mechanical and electrometric methods on 30 volunteers, after 28 days
of application (see Fig. 3). The wrinkle count decreased by 32.9% and
the wrinkle length was reduced by 9.6%. Skin hydration increased by
11.4%, while skin firmness and elasticity increased by 9.6% and 16.1%,
respectively. Furthermore, skin colour homogeneity was enhanced.
Thus, this product was proven to have antiageing effects, both by
preventing photoageing and by diminishing existing signs of ageing. It
is suggested that donkey milk, due to its high whey-protein content,
was responsible for the significant increase in skin hydration. Donkey
milk may have also contributed, in synergy with the pomegranate ex-
tract, to the increase in skin colour homogeneity due to the tyrosinase-
inhibiting capacity of α-lactoalbumin and β-lactoglobulin.
Prolonged tomato consumption can mitigate UV-induced skin sun-
burn (Cooperstone et al., 2017). In an attempt to supplement cutaneous
levels of antioxidants, lycopene was incorporated into lipid-based ul-
tradeformable vesicles (Ascenso et al., 2013). Lycopene is a highly
unsaturated hydrocarbon and the incorporation in a phospholipid-
based vehicle resulted in a successful carotenoid solubilization and
stabilization in the formulation and skin deposition after topical ap-
plication (Ascenso et al., 2013). Moreover, lycopene topical application
presented antioxidant potential in vivo (Ascenso et al., 2013). Studies
also demonstrated the lycopene corrective role in photodamaged and
preneoplastic keratinocytes (Ascenso et al., 2016). An example of a
commercial available lycopene-containing cosmetic is Diabolique To-
mate Reg from Garancia®, an orange-red color moisturizing cream
containing tomato lycopene.
An example of a commercially available sunscreen with high UV
protection (SPF 50) rich in food-based ingredients is Valeve Sunscreen
from Valeve. This formulation has been especially formulated with
chemical filters, Valais apricot (from Switzerland) extract and walnut
oil extract.
3.4. Wound healing
Another important application of topical supplementation is in
wound healing management. Wound healing is a complex process
which repairs a disruption in the structure and function of a skin tissue.
It is characterized by inflammation, granulation, wound contraction,
collagen formation, epithelialization and cicatrization.
Topical vitamin E was able to improve the healing of difficult
wounds with local infection (Stanizzi, Bottoni, Torresetti, Campanati, &
Di Benedetto, 2015). The clinical outcomes were correlated with mo-
lecular and cellular effects of vitamin E through stimulation of granu-
lation tissue, reduction of bacterial growth and modulation of angio-
genesis (Stanizzi et al., 2015). In addition, this vitamin also accelerates
wound closure and repair by promoting cell polarization and migration
in keratinocytes through phosphatidylinositol kinase/protein kinase C
signaling cascade (Horikoshi et al., 2018).
Curcumin accelerated wound healing in mice and rats through
various mechanisms: a) reduction of inflammation (TNF-α, matrix
metallopeptidase 9 (MMP-9) and interleukin (IL)-1β decreased expres-
sion and IL-10 increased expression); b) enhancement of fibroblast
differentiation and ECM production (related to collagen levels); c) and
27
Trends in Food Science & Technology 95 (2020) 21–32
increase of antioxidant enzymes in the wound (Yen et al., 2018). When
applied with HA, it presented a higher efficacy in healing wounds than
curcumin or HA alone due to a well-formed dermal layer with mature
collagen, dermal papillae and re-epithelialization. Together, they have
a synergist effect on proliferation and migration of skin cells and col-
lagen deposition (Sharma, Sahu, Singh, & Jain, 2018). In another for-
mulation, curcumin encapsulated poly(lactic-co-glycolic acid) micro-
spheres in chitosan/aloe membrane was able for promote skin
regeneration as well (X. Liu et al., 2019).
Vitamin C is one of the most important factors in wound healing, as
it is an essential cofactor in collagen synthesis (Pullar et al., 2017).
Topical vitamin C solution proved to accelerate epithelialization and
wound healing process, improve granulation tissues and remove ne-
crotic tissues (Sarpooshi, Haddadi, Siavoshi, & Borghabani, 2017). In
rats, enhanced fibroblasts proliferation, less macrophages, new vessels
and higher collagen fibers synthesis were also observed after topical
application of this solution, increasing wound healing (Lima et al.,
2009).
An example of a commercially available product is Turmeric WSO
Ayurvedic Skin Cream from Vicco®, with 16% curcumin, and its
benchmark claims to treat and prevent skin infection, inflammation and
wounds. Aspen Medical produces a range of antibacterial honey-en-
riched dressings and ointments for wound care (L-Mesitran®) based on
wound healing properties of honey.
3.5. Xerosis
Xerosis is the medical term used to describe a severe dryness of the
skin resulting from decrease of oils and dehydration of the stratum
corneum. The visible signs include the accentuation of skin markings
and scaling. This condition, especially common in older adults and in
families with a history of atopy, causes itchiness and scratching of the
skin prompting inflammation. Xerosis can be triggered by environment
factors (cold climates or extended exposure to sun) aging, inadequate
skin care (excessive bathing and use of alkaline soaps) and other
medical conditions (diabetes) and medications (Parker, Scharfbillig, &
Jones, 2017). The management of xerosis starts by identifying the un-
derlying causes and the treatment aims at efficiently restoring skin
hydration and barrier function.
Conventional topical medication containing steroids is prescribed to
reduce itching and irritation and skincare products with emollients such
as urea can be particularly effective in improving the skin appearance
(Terrie, 2013). Topical emollients can be used on a daily basis to im-
prove skin hydration in people susceptible to dry skin. The perception
that products with natural ingredients are safe increases their use in
skin conditions that can be controlled with consistent moisturizing
practices. For xerosis prevention and treatment, the key ingredients are
oils (Karagounis, Gittler, Rotemberg, & Morel, 2019). In a study in-
vestigating the effect of coconut, jojoba, and almond oils on the skin
barrier function of xerosis patients, participants were randomized to
apply 1 moisturizer twice daily for 2 weeks. All oils significantly in-
creased hydration and were as effective as white petrolatum (used as
reference). The preferred moisturizers were almond and coconut oil and
the least preferred was white petrolatum suggesting benefits of non-
conventional therapies in patient compliance (Vaughn et al., 2018).
Coconut oil has been used in tropical regions as a moisturizer, and
studies have shown its beneficial effects in neonates as an emollient
(Nangia et al., 2015), and proved it to be as effective as mineral oil in
children with mild to moderate atopic dermatitis (Evangelista, Abad-
Casintahan, & Lopez-Villafuerte, 2014). Sunflower seed oil is a rich
source of linoleic acid, a fatty acid with a direct role in skin barrier
function. Evidence-based research has shown that topical application of
this oil restores the skin barrier by soothing dermatitis in infants with
linoleic acid deficiency (Friedman, Shochat, Maisels, Marks, &
Lamberth, 1976). Other reports suggest that sunflower seed oil can be
used as a safe and effective treatment for xerosis and atopic dermatitis.
C. Faria-Silva, et al. Trends in Food Science & Technology 95 (2020) 21–32

Nonetheless, further studies may be needed to propose definitive re-
commendations.
3.6. Rosacea
Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin disorder in adults with a
complex pathophysiology. Often, patients with rosacea present a
variety of signs and symptoms including erythema papules, pustules,
telangiectasias, flushing, phymatous changes, and ocular manifesta-
tions (Rivero & Whitfeld, 2018). Conventional treatments include the
topical formulations containing anti-inflammatory and/or anti-anti-
oxidant drugs to reduce inflammation and erythema and several forms
of laser/light therapy, radiofrequency and ultrasounds aimed at elim-
inating the cutaneous vascular lesions. Treatments combining drugs
and physical therapies have recently proven more efficient to treat
rosacea and reduce relapse rates (Feaster, Cline, Feldman, & Taylor,
2019).
Skincare products containing plant extracts, phytochemicals, or
herbal formulations are commonly used for the management of rosacea
(Fisk, Lev-Tov, Clark, & Sivamani, 2015). For example, they can play an
important role as adjuvants in moderate to severe cases by improving
skin barrier and hydration leading to soothing benefits due to their
moisturizing properties (Draelos, Gunt, & Levy, 2019; Saric, Clark,
Sivamani, Lio, & Lev-Tov, 2017). However, some studies behind these
findings have methodological limitations, and therefore, additional
clinical trials are necessary to support efficacy and safety of new food-
based products in the treatment of rosacea. Polyphenols were identified
as having beneficial properties for the treatment of rosacea symptoms
(Saric et al., 2017).
DC Moisturizing Reactive Skin/Rosacea from Dermoteca Cosmetics,
for example, contains resveratrol, malted barley polyphenols, centella
asiatica, shea butter and tapioca glucan biopolymer. Manufacturers
claim the reduction of redness and the improvement of microcirculation
in sensitive, reactive and rosacea prone skin. Even considering the ab-
sence of scientific reports the brand also claims ability of the product to
protect against UV radiation and free radicals. SkinCeuticals, a cosmetic
brand, markets various products with natural ingredients such as re-
sveratrol to prevent or correct rosacea skin symptoms. These products
are claimed by the brand to soothe skin, improve visible signs of aging,
reduce visible skin redness and restore loss of hydration.
3.7. Cellulite
Cellulite, also known as edematous fibrosclerotic panniculopathy, is
a multifactorial and unaesthetic skin condition that affects more than
80% of postpubertal women. Several factors are known to contribute to
the development of cellulite (Davis, Boen, & Fabi, 2019) and several
treatment options exist varying from noninvasive techniques, such as
topical agents, oral regimens with or without nutritional supplements,
massages and garments, to invasive ones (Sadick, 2019).
Cosmetic and/or cosmeceutical agents mostly methylxanthines
(theophylline and caffeine), retinoids and several types of botanical
extracts, combined with vigorous massage, were the earliest approaches
to treat cellulite by a non-invasive way. The main challenge of topical
formulations is to reach their target on deepest skin layer at sufficient
concentration to obtain a biological effect. In this regard, Ascenso et al.
have formulated three related ultradeformable vesicles, transfersomes,
ethosomes and transethosomes for the incorporation of caffeine. A high
skin penetration and permeation of all caffeine-loaded vesicles were
observed (Ascenso et al., 2015). Regarding the mechanism of action,
methylxanthines are hypothesized to stimulate lipolysis and inhibit
phosphodiesterase, increasing the cyclic adenosine monophosphate
ratio. Retinoids may increase dermal thickness, stimulate angiogenesis
and the synthesis of connective tissue components such as fibroblasts
(Sadick, 2019).
Regardless of various approaches that attempt to treat and amelio-
rate cellulite, no procedures have been successful at long term since this
involves an extensive tissue remodeling. Thus, internal and external
approaches used in a staged manner to yield synergistic results would
be desirable to achieve the best outcomes (Sadick, 2019).
Skin care market is the largest category in the global cosmetics in-
dustry, being moisturizers ointments, creams, and lotions a very pop-
ular category of products and a million market especially in the eastern
countries. Among these products, there are several cosmetics in the
market containing food-based active ingredients for topical application
as here described. Table 2 presents examples of commercial products
and the manufacturer's activity claims.
4. Challenges of the food and skin care convergence
“Green Beauty” is the new trend of a consumer that cares not only
about his beauty and well-being, but also about his ecological footprint.
Sustainability is the word for new cosmetic consumers and ingredient
buyers (Fevola, Sun, & York, 2017). People increasingly desire green
cosmetics with natural and organic ingredients, and without pre-
servatives, dyes, silicones or fragrances. However, this specific com-
position will influence the storage time, and the list of allowed pre-
servatives will be much more limited. Furthermore, there is the
question of the allergies. Will a person with a food allergy have the
same skin allergy? Ingredients need to be carefully tested in these cases,
in order to prove their safety.
The content of bioactive components in natural products depends
tremendously on the harvest time and storage conditions (Kodad,
Socias i Company, Prats, & López Ortiz, 2006). This fact will influence

Table 2
Examples of benchmark products for topical application containing food-based active ingredients.
Brand Product name Active ingredient Claim

Avene Les essentials Red fruits extract Anti-oxidant and anti-fatigue

Caudalie Vine[Activ] Grape seeds polyphenols Anti-oxidant and anti-wrinkle
Vichy Idealia Blueberry extract polyphenols, black tea extract Anti-wrinkle
Caudalie Resveratrol[Lift] Resveratrol (grape vine) Antiageing, firming
Repavar® Revitalise active vitamin C ampoules Vitamin C Antiageing
La Roche Posay Redermic C Vitamin C, hyaluronic acid Antiageing
Sesderma C-Vit Vitamin C Antiageing
Vichy Slow Age Resveratrol Antiageing
Filorga NCTF-INTENSIVE® Retinol, vitamin C Anti-wrinkle, firmness, luminosity
Filorga NCTF-REVERSE® Hyaluronic acid, collagen, vitamins A, H and E. Anti-wrinkle, firmness, luminosity
Isdinceuticals Flavo-C Ultraglican ampoules Vitamin C, proteoglycans, hyaluronic acid Anti-wrinkle, firmness
Marti Derm Black Diamon Skin Comples ampoules Vitamin C, B5, F, A, E Antiageing, antioxidant, firmness, elasticity
Caudalie Vinoperfect Viniferine (grape vine sap) Hyperpigmentation, luminosity
Filorga Pigment-Perfect Hop extract, Oleuropein, Vitamin C Hyperpigmentation
Isdinceutics Melaclear Vitamin C Hyperpigmentation
Elancyl Slim Design Caffeine, Salacia, Phloridzin Anti-cellulite

28
C. Faria-Silva, et al.
directly both quantitatively and qualitatively the food-derived com-
pounds and, as a consequence, the biological effect of the cosmetic
products. American Herbal Products Association prepared in 2017 a
“Good Agricultural and Collection Practices and Good Manufacturing
Practices for Botanical Materials” (American Herbal Products
Association, 2017). These guidelines present a general technical gui-
dance on obtaining materials of good quality and may be useful in any
country; however, in no case does the document overlap the regulations
applicable in each producer country.
Ecocert® certification allows the certification of a 100% natural or
organic cosmetic. Ecocert® ensures ingredients from organic agriculture
or natural origin, a green production process and a certification to the
consumer. The formulations cannot have contaminants in a con-
centration superior of the one naturally present, and all the processes
that ingredients may suffer should be authorized. Obtaining this certi-
fication is extremely hard, as all the steps from ingredients production
until reaching the consumer are bound to strict rules. Notwithstanding,
how will the benefit-cost relation of this product be? For the same
benefit of a synthetic cosmetic, the price will certain be much higher.
Are consumers willing to pay much more for a product with the same
benefit, just because it is “green”? Consumers’ beliefs will certainly be
crucial in this decision. The awareness of the world around us is leading
to this mind-set: we will certainly need to respect the environment and
ourselves.
The risk of some consumer products packaged to imitate food and
containing food-appealing odor to be confused with food and swal-
lowed is real. The closer a product resembles food and the more at-
tractive it is to children, bigger will be the risk. This is especially im-
portant in the case of cosmetic products like shower gels, shampoos,
body lotions, soaps and liquid soaps. Authorities are concerned about
acute oral toxicity associated with unintentional ingestion of such
products and measures including modification of packaging and la-
beling, and substitutions of chemicals with a lower toxicity profile have
been proposed (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, 2011).
Food-derived ingredients can be suitably formulated to promote
skin absorption and enhanced skin delivery. Nanotechnological ap-
proaches have gained special interest in the cosmetic arena despite the
concern about penetration of nanomaterials through the skin and their
potential hazard to human health (Lohani, Verma, Joshi, Yadav, &
Karki, 2014). Deep skin absorption can be modulated based on for-
mulations containing skin penetration enhancers and food-derived in-
gredients can act themselves as permeation enhancers (Chen et al.,
2016). It is thus difficult to define when does a product that causes
transient physiological changes within the skin become therapeutic.
Food and skin care convergence should be thus designed respecting,
legislation, transparency and consumer's health.
5. Potential for food and cosmetics convergence
The combination of both topical and oral food-based products is the
most recent trend, mixing cosmeceuticals and either nutraceuticals or
nutricosmetics for feeding the skin from inside and from outside. There
is an increasing market based on the investment of skin-friendly pro-
ducts composed by a “green” generation compounds obtained from
natural sources including food ingredients and agro-food industrial
residues as well. The idea of preparing at home safe and inexpensive
cosmetics is gaining followers in the context that one would not put
anything on own skin that wouldn't be prepared to eat! (Oates, 2007). A
variety of easy-to-make recipes for natural beauty treatments that can
be made from everyday ingredients is now published in books (Gerber,
2016). An example is a detox mask just using grapefruit juice and yo-
gurt and applying it on the face for at least 10 min. It is claimed to
remove dead cells and to quench free radicals on the skin by the retinol
present in this fruit. If simultaneously, grapefruit is introduced in the
diet, it will help to keep a clean skin and promote weight loss (Gerber,
2016). A turmeric mask, rich in curcumin, has been used for Indian
29
Trends in Food Science & Technology 95 (2020) 21–32
brides for years as exfoliating, unifying skin pigmentation and reducing
skin inflammation. If turmeric is ingested as a smoothie, it will have an
antibacterial against E.coli (Gul & Bakht, 2015), antiseptic and anti-
inflammatory activity (Gerber, 2016). Ancient beauty tips thus suffered
a makeover converting it in DIY all-natural beauty products right from
the kitchen, easily spread through the internet. This trend has a great
potential to involve people, especially women, in the skin care products
manufacturing.
Food-residues represent a sustainable and rich source of several
bioactive agents, as explained before. Recovery of the added-value
product from food waste not always involves sustainable extraction
techniques. Citrus waste is an example of potential source of bioactive
compounds which can be extracted using different techniques (Mahato,
Sharma, Sinha, & Cho, 2018). Such compounds have been used in skin,
hair and nails cosmetic formulations. The possibility to transform by-
products derived from food wastes into an economic and renewable
source for valuable compounds will certainly promote the collabora-
tions between food companies and cosmetic industries with common
benefits. Academia is also involved in this collaboration as alternative
“green” extraction techniques are demanded. In the last years, clean
and sustainable extraction techniques have been used to obtain extracts
with high bioactivity and safety due to the solvent used. Is the case of
the extracts from Cynara scolymus L., obtained by decoction of plant
bracts in distilled boiling water followed by lyophilization (Marques
et al., 2017). The process allowed obtaining dried extracts with anti-
oxidant and photoprotective properties (Marques et al., 2017). Ex-
traction processes involving supercritical carbon dioxide or subcritical
water extraction can solve some current problems of extractive in-
dustries because they reduce the environmental impact and toxic waste
(Coelho et al., 2018; Ribeiro et al., 2018). Therefore, innovative ex-
traction techniques are important research subjects to recover and
stabilize out the active molecules from the food. SCG, which are the
residue obtained from the treatment of coffee with hot water or steam
were used by Ribeiro and collaborators (Ribeiro et al., 2013). The lipid
fraction of SCG extracted with supercritical carbon dioxide seems to be
a suitable approach to recycle the wastes from coffee industry due to
free fatty acids and unsaponifiable matter, 1.6 and 5.5% w/w content,
respectively. The oil fraction of SCG and green coffee oil extracted with
supercritical CO2 were used in the development of new generation of
sunscreens with improved sun protection performance (Marto et al.,
2016). Later, the same authors evaluated the skin antiageing and
lightning effects of the bioactive extracts of SCG, obtained by another
extraction technique, the subcritical water extraction, at 100 bar and
temperatures up to 220 °C, in a semi-continuous mode (Ribeiro et al.,
2018).
An important issue regarding the application of food-based in-
gredients in cosmetic formulations is the stability of these ingredients.
Some ingredients are stable in the fruit and once extracted can be easily
degraded by the light or by the air (Pullar et al., 2017). However, very
few reports concerning the stability of food-based ingredients in cos-
metics exist. Considering the application on skin surface of liquid to
semi-solid preparations, without occlusion, formulation of food-derived
ingredients will benefit from the use of more advanced systems, micro
and nanoparticulated, with proven results on drug stability (Lohani
et al., 2014).
6. Conclusions
Nowadays, beauty can no longer be dissociated from health and
consumers consider nutrition an important pillar in skin beauty. These
concepts are the principles for food and cosmetic convergence to be-
come a new trend in the personal care and cosmetic field. On the one
hand, cosmetic companies are developing food supplements, on the
other hand food ingredients are being included in cosmetics and the
potential of bioactive compounds extracted from food is gaining a new
scientific interest. These compounds can be incorporated in
C. Faria-Silva, et al.
nutraceutics and/or in nutricosmetics completing the cycle “beauty-
from-inside-and-beauty-from-outside”. Many recent studies present
food-derived compounds as having antiageing, antioxidant, anti-
microbial and antiseptic properties, and there is also demonstrated
evidence of skin antiageing activity. Skin care products developers and
formulators are increasingly searching for natural and sustainable in-
gredients and are looking to the kitchen table for inspiration. Raw
material companies are developing novel actives from food sources, and
food-derived wastes are being used to extract bioactive compounds.
These approaches bring many sustainability implications and several
studies report the use of green technologies for the extraction of
bioactive compounds from fruits and vegetables. Food and cosmetics
convergence has, thus, a great potential for development and present
several challenges. The main challenge is related to the stability of such
ingredients when out of their natural source and the maintenance of
their bioactive properties once formulated. This is a renewed area of
research requiring interdisciplinary investigation in fields such as bio-
technology, chemistry, food technology, molecular biology, pharma-
ceutical technology and toxicology.
Funding
This work was supported by Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
(FCT) through the projects UID/DTP/04138/2019 and PTDC/SAU-
SER/30197/2017.
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