Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Qiuchen Guo
Louis A. Couston
Reza Alam
TAFLab
University of California, Berkeley
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Rogue waves: true story
CAPT RONALD WARWI CK (Queen Eliza bet h 2) : Out of the darkness came t his great wa ll of wat er. I
have never seen a wave as big as t his in my whole life.
CAPT BARRY PECK: You hit solid water and it is like running into a brick wa ll. The entire bridge was
wrecked.
CAPT DAI DAVI ES (Sm it Marine South Africa) : Horrif ic, monstrous. You fee l as if t he en d of the world
has come.
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The New Year Wave
[Walker et cl 2004]
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› Problem formulation
› Conclusions
› Future work
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Interesting aspects
› Rogue waves (or freak waves, monster waves, extreme waves) are
short lived very large amplitude waves
› Rare enough that very few measured cases have been documented
› What does rogue wave looks like on average and how to predict
them are two central questions
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Why study rogue wave shapes?
Design of offshore structures Parametric rolling of ship occurs when
𝐿𝑝 = 𝜆 𝑤
[worldmaritimenews]
Experimental study
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New year wave in experiment Averaged profile in time
Satellite images
𝑡/𝑇𝑝
[Christou & Ewans 2014]
1
𝜙𝑡𝑡 + 𝑔𝜙𝑧 + 𝜕t + 2 𝛻𝜙 ⋅ 𝛻 𝛻𝜙 ⋅ 𝛻𝜙 =0 for z=𝜂 𝑥, 𝑡
z
𝜂
𝛻 2 𝜙=0 for -h< 𝑧 < 𝜂
ℎ 𝜌, 𝜙 𝜙 − velocity potential
𝜂 − surface wave elevation
ℎ − mean depth
x
seabed 𝜙𝑧 = 0 for z= −ℎ
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Initial condition: a broadband spectrum of propagating
waves with their energy defined by JONSWAP spectrum
𝑆 𝜔 → 𝑆 𝑘 = 𝐶𝑔 (𝜔)𝑆 𝜔 → 𝜂 = 2∫ 𝑆 𝑘 𝑑𝑘
𝜂
𝜂= Average
𝐻𝑠 the peak-
𝑥
𝑥= centered Standard
Approach 2: 𝜆𝑝 deviation σ
waves
Validation with field measurements
Numerical
Field measurements
Simulations
[Christou & Ewans 2014]
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Averaged spatial profile
Approach 1 Approach 2
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Effect of nonlinearity
M: order of nonlinearity
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Prediction of rogue waves
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Measure current sea surfaces
Satellite images
Energy flux
across the
vertical
plane
x +
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Results
H1=1.8m
H2=0.7m
Hs=0.5m,
Tp=8.8s
𝜆3 = 𝜂 − 𝜂 3 /𝜂 3
𝑠𝑡𝑑
Time average
of wave
elevation
Gaussian waves:
Skewness = 0
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Future work:
› Include the effect of bottom topography in studying rogue
wave statistical properties