Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
France
Loire – Pays Nantais
Domaine de la Bregeonnette
Joseph Orieux founded this domaine in the town of Vallet in the 1960's and has been organic from the start, recently becoming certified (only 12
producers out of 600+ actually have the certification). Today, Joseph's grandson, Stéphane Orieux upholds his family's traditions of organic farming,
hand-harvesting, wild yeast fermentations, and long, sur-lie aging. Due to the many decades of experience, Bregeonnette has become a reference
point for other winemakers in the region who want to learn how to work organically in the vines. Even Marc Ollivier of Domaine de la Pépière consults
Stéphane when he has questions about organic treatments. The same care and dedication to quality is present throughout the entire range of wines.
Everything is harvested by hand, including the Gros Plant, and the top, single-parcel wine, "Clos de la Coudray", spends 18 months sur-lie.
Loire – Anjou-Saumur
Bertin-Delatte
In the past decade or so, the town of Rablay-sur-Layon has become a small hub for dedicated young winemakers in the Loire Valley. There’s a strong
community spirit – each year the town organizes a small music festival, and there is a cooperative grocery store in the town center. Geneviève Delatte
and Nicolas Bertin started out in the area working for other winemakers, and in 2008, they purchased their own small vineyard, a 1.5ha lieu-dit named
"L’Echalier". In 2012 they built a small home and winery at the edge of their vines and found a few other small vineyards in the hills around Rablay.
The winemaking philosophy is to keep things simple; accompany the vines, the grapes, and the wine. Spend a lot of time observing, intervene as little
as possible.
Mary Taylor
When founding partner Mary Taylor first fell in love with wine in the early 90s, it was the European classics that truly spoke to her and stole her heart.
As a young professional selling wine, she quickly learned to appreciate wine in the “Old World” way — not as a luxury good reserved for special
occasions, but a living agricultural product that belongs to everyday life. After many years working with the wines of Europe, Mary arrived at an
important insight. Left in the dark by decades of simplistic marketing efforts that placed grape above geography, American consumers needed a
brand they could trust to decipher the complex notion of terroir in a clear and straightforward way. Out of this realization, the “White Label” series
was born. Today, it is Mary’s mission to unlock the world of European appellation wines by working with individual growers in multiple villages — from
Bordeaux to Nîmes to Valençay to the Douro and beyond — who produce exceptional, regionally-distinctive wines at extremely accessible prices. In
the traditional spirit of the Old World, each Mary Taylor wine has been selected as a faithful ambassador of its geographic origin, true to local traditions
and the vision of the individual farmer who bottled it. All fruit is farmed sustainably or organically, only indigenous varieties are used, fermentations are
with native yeast, and only inert vessels are used for aging to yield a set of wines of genuine quality and integrity that will bring the magic of their
terroirs to life wherever you choose to enjoy them.
Vins Hodgson
The Hodgsons' story is irresistibly bizarre: they're Japanese-Canadian winemakers who've settled in Rablay-sur-Layon via Vancouver and the Tochigi
prefecture of Japan. Kenji and Mai met in Vancouver, where Kenji studied engineering before abandoning it to work as a wine writer. Further curiosity
led them to intern at wineries in BC and Japan. Along the way, they became interested in natural wine, experimenting with low-sulfur use and natural
fermentation, and tasting widely among the plethora of French natural wines imported in Japan. So in 2009, Kenji and Mai decided to up and move to
France to work harvest with the legendary Mark Angéli of Ferme de la Sansonnière in Anjou. A year later, with encouragement from natural Loire
luminaries like Olivier Cousin and Claude Courtois, they purchased their first 3ha of vineyards in Rablay-sur-Layon, and are finally producing their first
wines under their own labels.
Loire – Touraine
Domaine Courtault-Tardieux
As a teenager, Simon Tardieux began working in the vines of Catherine Roussel and Didier Barrouillet of Clos Roche Blanche. After university and a
short stint as a social worker, Simon decided to return to his hometown and get back to his true calling: working outside in the vines. The only problem
was that he didn’t have any vineyards. So, he teamed up with his neighbor, Alain Courtault, who has long been practicing organics (Alain was the
third producer in the region to practice organic viticulture, starting back in 1998). Together, they make a range of simple, eminently drinkable wines.
Domaine Guion
There are few properties in France that can boast such a great pioneering legacy in organic farming as Domaine Guion. In the 1950’s, the Guion
family established their farm in the heart of the Bourgueil appellation, a stone’s throw from the banks of the Loire River. Since it was a polycultural
estate, the family was able to live almost entirely off the land. By 1965, they began farming organically, with a holistic understanding of its effects far
ahead of their time. Since taking the reins from his father in 1990, Stéphane Guion has a put a much greater emphasis on viticulture, managing 8.5ha
of land. Quiet and curious, he is a well-respected member of the vigneron community in Bourgueil and is often consulted by other growers eager to
adopt organic farming practices. While Stéphane rarely appears at tastings and trade shows, it is clear that the extra time in the vineyards and cellars
is well spent. Situated on meticulously cultivated clay and limestone soils, the Guions’ vineyards range from 10-80 years old, with the younger vines
designated for the “Cuvée Domaine” and the older for the “Cuvée Prestige”. Stéphane prunes the buds rather than clusters to achieve a judicious
yield and hand harvests all of his fruit. In the cellar, he only employs native yeasts and allows a moderate maceration of the grapes. Once the bottles
are ready for aging, they are stored in a large cave shared with six other families that once served as a historic Resistance hideout during World War
II. Rustic, focused, and lively, with fresh acidity and minerality, the wines of Domaine Guion are known for their fine tannins, great aging potential, and
terrific price.
Mary Taylor
When founding partner Mary Taylor first fell in love with wine in the early 90s, it was the European classics that truly spoke to her and stole her heart.
As a young professional selling wine, she quickly learned to appreciate wine in the “Old World” way — not as a luxury good reserved for special
occasions, but a living agricultural product that belongs to everyday life. After many years working with the wines of Europe, Mary arrived at an
important insight. Left in the dark by decades of simplistic marketing efforts that placed grape above geography, American consumers needed a
brand they could trust to decipher the complex notion of terroir in a clear and straightforward way. Out of this realization, the “White Label” series
was born. Today, it is Mary’s mission to unlock the world of European appellation wines by working with individual growers in multiple villages — from
Bordeaux to Nîmes to Valençay to the Douro and beyond — who produce exceptional, regionally-distinctive wines at extremely accessible prices. In
the traditional spirit of the Old World, each Mary Taylor wine has been selected as a faithful ambassador of its geographic origin, true to local traditions
and the vision of the individual farmer who bottled it. All fruit is farmed sustainably or organically, only indigenous varieties are used, fermentations are
with native yeast, and only inert vessels are used for aging to yield a set of wines of genuine quality and integrity that will bring the magic of their
terroirs to life wherever you choose to enjoy them.
Michel Autran
Although his first official vintage wasn’t until 2013, Michel Autran is already making a name for himself as one of the top producers in Vouvray. This
didn’t just happen out of the blue though, as Michel has quietly been putting in the work behind the scenes for many years now. Michel started off as
a doctor, working in emergency medicine for nearly 20 years, but somewhere along the way the wine bug bit. Despite being in his 40s, Michel
eventually decided a career change was the only solution and he set about acquiring the necessary experience, working with and learning from some
of the top Chenin producers in the world, people like François Pinon, Vincent Carême, the Joussets, Frantz Saumon, Ludovic Chanson, and more. In
2011, he was able to purchase just under 1ha of prime vineyards in Noizay to start, and slowly expanded to 3.8ha today. Farming is completely
organic, and due to the steepness of some of the plots a horse is necessary for the vineyard work. The vines are all very old, between 50-70 years,
and all replanting is with massale selection of old vines from Pinon. Harvesting is by hand and with multiple tries to ensure the small team of workers
make the best selection in the vineyard. Fermentation begins with native yeast in stainless steel before immediately being racked off by gravity into
barrel, some new, but most 4-12 years old and coming from friends like Carême or the late Stéphane Cossais. A small amount of sulfur is used at
débourbage if necessary, otherwise the wines are raised completely sans souffre. The resulting wines have it all: purity, elegant fruit, incredible length,
richness balanced by enamel-stripping acidity, and off-the-charts minerality.
Vincent Grall
Since 1999, Vincent Grall has quietly been making tiny amounts of Sancerre in his garage from 3.8ha of vines, making him the second smallest
producer in the region. The production is split between two white cuvées coming from two distinct sites that are each vinified and aged differently, per
the soil type. While the sites are blended, "Cuvée Tradition" is mostly from the silex soils around the main hill of Sancerre, Le Plateau, and is done
entirely in stainless. "Le Manoir" comes mostly from Le Manoir de L’Etang where the soils are more marl and clay, and is aged in 600L barrels that
are 3-4 years old. Although not certified, the soils are worked manually and organic treatments are used. The intention is to work as naturally as
possible in both the vineyards and the cellar, but they will intervene if they risk losing their crop in bad vintages. Unlike most Sancerre producers, all
harvesting is done by hand.
Mary Taylor
When founding partner Mary Taylor first fell in love with wine in the early 90s, it was the European classics that truly spoke to her and stole her heart.
As a young professional selling wine, she quickly learned to appreciate wine in the “Old World” way — not as a luxury good reserved for special
occasions, but a living agricultural product that belongs to everyday life. After many years working with the wines of Europe, Mary arrived at an
important insight. Left in the dark by decades of simplistic marketing efforts that placed grape above geography, American consumers needed a
brand they could trust to decipher the complex notion of terroir in a clear and straightforward way. Out of this realization, the “White Label” series
was born. Today, it is Mary’s mission to unlock the world of European appellation wines by working with individual growers in multiple villages — from
Bordeaux to Nîmes to Valençay to the Douro and beyond — who produce exceptional, regionally-distinctive wines at extremely accessible prices. In
the traditional spirit of the Old World, each Mary Taylor wine has been selected as a faithful ambassador of its geographic origin, true to local traditions
and the vision of the individual farmer who bottled it. All fruit is farmed sustainably or organically, only indigenous varieties are used, fermentations are
with native yeast, and only inert vessels are used for aging to yield a set of wines of genuine quality and integrity that will bring the magic of their
terroirs to life wherever you choose to enjoy them.
Burgundy – Mâconnais
Domaine des Gandines
Domaine des Gandines was founded by Joseph Dananchet at the beginning of the 20th century. At the time, it was a polycultural farm like most
others in the area with cows, pigs, sheep, wheat, and a couple of hectares of vines. The property slowly expanded over the years, and in 2003,
Benjamin Dananchet – the 4th Dananchet generation – joined forces with his father, Robert, slowly bringing the vineyard holdings to 13ha they farm
today while also converting to organic viticulture (certified in 2009). Since 2011, they have even begun working biodynamically, which they feel helps
retain higher natural acidities. Benjamin was recently joined by his brother, Florent, who is now assisting in the cellar. Soils are an important focus of
the Dananchets' methodology for the enhancing the vine's nutrition. The family uses no herbicides on the ground, and the soils are plowed to give air
to the microorganisms while eliminating the grass without weed killers. In order to preserve the integrity of the grapes and avoid oxidation, all grapes
are harvested by hand. Grapes are pressed whole-cluster (no destemming) and are allowed to ferment slowly with native yeast, with the only addition
being a small amount of sulfur just before bottling.
Jura
Domaine de Saint Pierre
After studying enology in Beaune and working several years at the cooperative in Pupillin, Fabrice Dodane started working at Domaine de Saint Pierre
in 1989 as manager. Fabrice took full control of the estate in 2011 after the untimely death of the former owner. The winery is based in the small town
of Mathenay and covers approximately 6ha in the Arbois and Côtes du Jura AOCs with the vines planted in limestone and marl soils. Saint Pierre
achieved organic certification in 2012, having started conversion in 2002. All wines are fermented with native yeasts either in tank or neutral barrel.
Vinifications for the reds are done without the addition of sulfur, and the whites are done flawlessly in both the traditional sous voile method, as well
as topped-up, or ouillé style. These are clean, balanced expressions of their terroir, and drink almost too easily.
Savoie/Isère
Nicolas Gonin
Located between Lyon and Grenoble, the Isère is just now gaining attention for its wines. Part of the attention is because of young growers like
Nicolas, who are seeking out and rediscovering the great, noble grapes of the past that (mostly for political and economic reasons) have been
abandoned in favor of the more well-known grapes of France. Nicolas discovered the 'cépages anciens' while working at Domaine Tempier in Bandol,
where he found a book that outlined the great old grapes of all the regions of France. Nicolas was hooked, and he now spends his weekends seeking
out old vineyards in France to find cuttings of these grapes. Nicolas currently owns part of the only 10ha of Persan that exist in the world, and will
soon make wine from grapes like Bia and Mècle de Bourgin. The vineyards are all certified organic, and fermentation and aging are exclusively in
enamel tank in order to give a true, unobstructed taste of these ancient varieties.
Domaine Thillardon
Contemporary Beaujolais is rife with opportunity – overlooked terroirs, abandoned vines, appellations ripe for rehabilitation. But few young vignerons
have committed to such ambitious challenges as brothers Paul-Henri and Charles Thillardon, who have positioned themselves as the future of
Beaujolais' smallest, sleepiest cru, Chénas. In 2008, Paul-Henri Thillardon began making wine from 3ha of vineyards, with the conviction that Chénas
has always been unjustifiably overshadowed by Moulin-à-Vent. He has slowly added new parcels to form the 12ha he works today. From the start,
he has farmed organically, working some of the vineyards with a horse and using biodynamic treatments. In 2009, he met Fleurie winemakers and
lynchpins of the Fleurie natural winemaking scene, Jean-Louis Dutraive and Yvon Métras, who took the young Paul-Henri under their wing. Until
2015, Paul-Henri partially destemmed most cuvées and practiced a more Burgundian vinification. Starting in 2014, he decided to switch to semi-
carbonic, and then went fully cool semi-carbonic in 2015, following in the footsteps of his mentors. With the dedication and attention to detail of the
Thillardons, the future of natural Chénas is in good hands.
Mary Taylor
When founding partner Mary Taylor first fell in love with wine in the early 90s, it was the European classics that truly spoke to her and stole her heart.
As a young professional selling wine, she quickly learned to appreciate wine in the “Old World” way — not as a luxury good reserved for special
occasions, but a living agricultural product that belongs to everyday life. After many years working with the wines of Europe, Mary arrived at an
important insight. Left in the dark by decades of simplistic marketing efforts that placed grape above geography, American consumers needed a
brand they could trust to decipher the complex notion of terroir in a clear and straightforward way. Out of this realization, the “White Label” series
was born. Today, it is Mary’s mission to unlock the world of European appellation wines by working with individual growers in multiple villages — from
Bordeaux to Nîmes to Valençay to the Douro and beyond — who produce exceptional, regionally-distinctive wines at extremely accessible prices. In
the traditional spirit of the Old World, each Mary Taylor wine has been selected as a faithful ambassador of its geographic origin, true to local traditions
and the vision of the individual farmer who bottled it. All fruit is farmed sustainably or organically, only indigenous varieties are used, fermentations are
with native yeast, and only inert vessels are used for aging to yield a set of wines of genuine quality and integrity that will bring the magic of their
terroirs to life wherever you choose to enjoy them.
Domaine du Chapitre
Frédéric Dorthe runs his family's 20ha of vineyards located on the right bank of the Rhône River in the picturesque town of Saint-Marcel d'Ardèche.
Due to long-standing contracts to sell most of his fruit, Fred's domaine has flown under the radar for a long time. On the bright side, this allows him
to make small amounts of honest, highly-drinkable wines from Southern Rhône grapes fermented and aged in cement with no additions except a
small amount of SO2 at bottling, and sell them for a song.
Mary Taylor
When founding partner Mary Taylor first fell in love with wine in the early 90s, it was the European classics that truly spoke to her and stole her heart.
As a young professional selling wine, she quickly learned to appreciate wine in the “Old World” way — not as a luxury good reserved for special
occasions, but a living agricultural product that belongs to everyday life. After many years working with the wines of Europe, Mary arrived at an
important insight. Left in the dark by decades of simplistic marketing efforts that placed grape above geography, American consumers needed a
brand they could trust to decipher the complex notion of terroir in a clear and straightforward way. Out of this realization, the “White Label” series
was born. Today, it is Mary’s mission to unlock the world of European appellation wines by working with individual growers in multiple villages — from
Bordeaux to Nîmes to Valençay to the Douro and beyond — who produce exceptional, regionally-distinctive wines at extremely accessible prices. In
the traditional spirit of the Old World, each Mary Taylor wine has been selected as a faithful ambassador of its geographic origin, true to local traditions
and the vision of the individual farmer who bottled it. All fruit is farmed sustainably or organically, only indigenous varieties are used, fermentations are
with native yeast, and only inert vessels are used for aging to yield a set of wines of genuine quality and integrity that will bring the magic of their
terroirs to life wherever you choose to enjoy them.
Langeudoc
Le Clos des Jarres
Les Clos de Jarres is an ambitious new domaine in Minervois started by the young Vivien Hemelsdael. Vivien’s parents had originally farmed the land
here for over 25 years, selling the fruit to the local cooperative. After studying winemaking around the world and in France in Alsace, where he initially
became interested in organic farming, Vivien returned home in 2010 and immediately converted the family's 12ha of vineyards to organics (now
certified), and has even begun incorporating some biodynamic treatments and principals. Vivien is working with a range of traditional red and white
varieties, with some of the vineyards over 80 years old. The vines are planted in the foothills of the Montagne Noire (Black Mountains), where the
cooling breezes combined with the limestone subsoil of the area helps give these wines extra freshness. The grapes are all hand harvested into small
crates to help sort the fruit in the vineyard. Fermentations are all with native yeast, and the wines are not fined or filtered, with the only addition being
a minimal amount of SO2 at bottling. These are delicious wines full of life, and we are glad to see all of Vivien’s hard work paying off.
Mas Foulaquier
Winemaker Pierre Jéquier, a native of Switzerland and formerly an architect, created Mas Foulaquier in 1998 following an exhaustive search for his
dream wine estate. Situated in the most northerly corner of Languedoc's most northerly appellation, Pic Saint-Loup, the 8ha of existing vines were at
the time just 8 years old, but happened to be planted on some great terroir. Now, at more than 25 years of age, those vines are the source of a quite
brilliant set of wines. Pierre's wife and fellow winemaker, Blandine Chauchet, joined the team in 2003, bringing with her the ownership of a further 3ha
of 50+ year-old Grenache and Carignan in the lieu-dit of "Les Tonillières". The vines are certified organic, and since 2007, are also certified
biodynamic by Demeter. In the cellar, the wines all are raised in Foulaquier’s signature, low-intervention style – native yeasts, no filtering, and minimal
sulfur added only at bottling.
Bordeaux – Entre-Deux-Mers
Mary Taylor
When founding partner Mary Taylor first fell in love with wine in the early 90s, it was the European classics that truly spoke to her and stole her heart.
As a young professional selling wine, she quickly learned to appreciate wine in the “Old World” way — not as a luxury good reserved for special
occasions, but a living agricultural product that belongs to everyday life. After many years working with the wines of Europe, Mary arrived at an
important insight. Left in the dark by decades of simplistic marketing efforts that placed grape above geography, American consumers needed a
brand they could trust to decipher the complex notion of terroir in a clear and straightforward way. Out of this realization, the “White Label” series
was born. Today, it is Mary’s mission to unlock the world of European appellation wines by working with individual growers in multiple villages — from
Bordeaux to Nîmes to Valençay to the Douro and beyond — who produce exceptional, regionally-distinctive wines at extremely accessible prices. In
the traditional spirit of the Old World, each Mary Taylor wine has been selected as a faithful ambassador of its geographic origin, true to local traditions
and the vision of the individual farmer who bottled it. All fruit is farmed sustainably or organically, only indigenous varieties are used, fermentations are
with native yeast, and only inert vessels are used for aging to yield a set of wines of genuine quality and integrity that will bring the magic of their
terroirs to life wherever you choose to enjoy them.
Domaine Séailles
Domaine Séailles is one of the pioneers of organic viticulture in the Côtes de Gascogne region of Southwest France. A family-owned estate since
1961, Séailles is now run by Jean Labérenne, who lead the domaine to Ecocert organic certification in 1997, swearing off all chemical fertilizers,
herbicides, insecticides, and synthetic chemical products. Located in the town of Ténarèze, which is unique in the region for its limestone soils, Jean
farms a total of 25ha of hillside vineyards with help the of Julien Lanclet and Laurent Lefèvre, even saving 2ha of vines to make the traditional spirit
of the region, Armagnac. Both native yeast fermented, the reds are aged in cement tank, while the whites are all done in stainless.
Elian Da Ros
Historically, the region around Marmande has been more famous for tomatoes than for wine, but Elian Da Ros might change all that. Returning to
his native town of Cocumont in 1998, Elian constructed a simple winery and took the daring step of being the first winemaker to produce and bottle
his own wine under the Côtes du Marmandais AOP. Crafting superb, biodynamic wines from Bordeaux varieties as well as the local Abouriou,
Elian is one of those French vignerons that is universally respected by just about every other vigneron you talk with, regardless of their views on
agriculture and winemaking. These are some of the purest expressions of the limestone and gravel soils of the region, and display tremendous
elegance and finesse, even when working with grape varieties more famous for their masculinity and strength.
Guirardel
After working as engineers in the semiconductor industry for over 15 years, Françoise Casaubieilh (the eldest daughter of Anne-Marie Guirardel) and
her husband, Pierre Coulomb, were both fed up and looking for a change. In August of 2008, just as Françoise’s father was ready to retire from a life
working in the vineyards around the family’s home in Jurançon, Françoise and Pierre decided to return to the property, becoming the 15th generation
of the Guirardel family to make wine from this special vineyard. Neither had any experience with winemaking, but Françoise had just graduated from
an agricultural course at the local university, and Pierre would later go on to work with the Plageoles family in Gaillac, and still frequently calls on his
good friend Richard Leroy for advice. Françoise and Pierre immediately stopped using chemicals in the vines, and would eventually file for organic
certification in 2012 (which they were granted in 2015). They are also working closely with a doctor interested in energy, aligning their winery to the
lines of the “sacred network” and using their own essential oils and herbal infusions in the vineyard in place of treatments (even organic ones). The
4.5ha of vines are planted predominately to Petit Manseng (75%) with some Gros Manseng (25%) and slope steeply due south towards the Pyrénées.
The vines are 20 years old on average with very low yields (12-25 hL/ha) thanks to excellent farming and the poor clay-limestone soils with lots of
stones and glacial deposits from the ice age. Grapes are harvested by hand in successive passes from October through December, with each parcel
kept separate. Natural fermentations occur in 10 year-old, traditional 400L barrels, although they are also experimenting with some 700L barrels,
acacia barrels, and even amphora for their dry wine. In 2011, Pierre made his first trials with a no SO2 added dry wine from late harvest grapes, and
continues to refine his technique as he gains more experience, releasing wines with as little added sulfur as possible. These wines are the
continuation of an incredible family tradition and represent a throwback to Jurançon’s past that is sadly becoming more and more rare.
Germany
Mosel
Hild
You’ve probably never heard of the “upper Mosel". I really hadn’t either, aside from mildly derogatory remarks made in passing. Some of this derision
is probably deserved: the upper Mosel has had a long tradition of selling grapes en masse to cooperatives interested in high yields, irrespective of
quality. However, this is also a fascinating place, a vision of the Mosel that has nothing to do with Riesling or slate. Here we find limestone (this is the
beginning of the Paris Basin, the geological reality that informs places like Chablis and Sancerre) and a winemaking culture based on one of Europe’s
oldest grapes: Elbling. Matthias Hild farms 5ha in the upper Mosel doing something that makes almost zero financial sense: saving old, terraced
parcels of Elbling. In this area, however, it’s important to understand Elbling is something of a religion. It’s a culture, a regional dialect that is spoken
through this wine of rigorous purity, of joyous simplicity, of toothsome acidity. Even at its best, Elbling is not a grape of “greatness” as much as it is a
grape of refreshment and honesty and conviviality. The comparisons are plenty, though none of them are quite right: If Riesling is Pinot Noir, then
Elbling is Gamay. If Riesling is Chenin Blanc, then Elbling is Muscadet. You get the idea. The joy of Elbling is its raucous acidity, the vigor and energy,
the fact that it is so low in alcohol you could probably drink a bottle and still operate heavy machinery.
Stein
While Ulli Stein’s wines are not widely known in the U.S., he has nothing less than a fanatical following in Europe. He could likely sell every last bottle
to his friends in Germany alone, yet there are places of some importance, like Noma in Copenhagen, that put in sizable orders for Stein wine. He
farms meaningful parcels of land that have a few important things in common: They are not easy to work. They are commercially unknown. And,
most importantly, Ulli loves them. In fact, Stein is more than a winemaker – he is a passionate advocate for the traditional, steep, slate vineyards
of the Mosel. In 2010, Ulli published a manifesto warning of the threats to the region’s 2000 years old viticultural tradition. Winemaking with Ulli is
refreshingly light on “style,” instead focusing on what the vineyards say to him. Certainly there is a focus on wines that are dry; lightness and zip are
more important than gobs of fruit. Complexity is good, but not at the expense of the whole – better to be simple and well done than overdone and,
well, a mess. Cut is more important than size.
Peter Lauer
Over the last few years, Florian Lauer, proprietor of Peter Lauer in the Saar, has gone from relatively unknown, to wine geek darling, to cult classic, to
finally, an established, blue-chip estate. Florian’s general style is exactly the opposite of his famous Saar neighbors Egon Müller and Hanno Zilliken.
At Lauer, the focus is on dry-tasting Rieslings as opposed to the residual sugar, Prädikat wines (Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese) of the latter two.
Employing natural-yeast fermentations, Lauer’s wines find their own balance. They tend to be more textural, deeper and more masculine, yet the
hallmarks of the Saar are there: purity, precision, rigor, mineral. Florian’s main playground is the breathtaking hillside of the Ayler Kupp. Though the
many vineyards of this mountain were unified (obliterated?) under the single name "Kupp" with the 1971 German wine law, it has been Florian’s life’s
work to keep the old vineyard names alive. Lauer bottles based on "fass", or cask, numbers that are often aligned with these pre-1971 vineyard
names. However, one shouldn’t take the fass numbers too seriously; they are based on the parcels that historically went into these fass and the style
of wine they most often produced. One example, "Fass 6 – Senior", is based on a selection that Florian’s grandfather made every year for his
personal consumption. On this barrel, he would write "Senior", and according to Florian, nine times out of ten, his grandfather would pick Fass 6,
which held wine sourced from the western-most region of the Kupp. Thus, today, the wine from this parcel is called "Fass 6 – Senior". In any case, the
results are undeniable: intensity without weight, grandiosity without size, clarity, and cut.
Rheinhessen
Seehof
The Rheinhessen has seen a rebirth the likes of which could not be fathomed even just ten years ago. This horrid, flat farmland and birthplace of
"Liebfraumilch", so it turns out, can produce world-class Riesling. Klaus Peter Keller has proven this point with emphasis. If there is a downside to this
glory, it is the creeping influence of the international wine press. For the 30-second taste test and the ever important score, fireworks always win. This
means young producers trying to make names for themselves focus on concentration, weight, density, power. Florian Fauth, the young winemaker at
his family estate, is the counterpoint to this trend. His wines eschew weight for fineness, power for clarity, fireworks for whispers; Florian has clearly
spoken quite a bit with his friend and brother-in-law Klaus Peter Keller. For the wines of the Rheinhessen, the key is limestone. This is what gives the
wines their glycerin-induced sexiness, but is also what gives them the flair of acidity, a presence strong enough to counter the lavish extract and to
keep the wines from feeling gooey or too heavy. At the moment Florian at Seehof is making some of the most charming and compelling Rheinhessen
wines around. The wines, both the dry and off-dry, are crystalline and pure with buoyant fruit and plenty of energy. For the money, you just can’t find
anything better.
Pfalz
Brand
Young brothers Daniel and Jonas Brand (both in their twenties) recently took over their family’s century-old estate, and are quickly breathing new life
into this former workhorse of the Northern Pfalz. The kids are smart, eager, and dialed into the growing natural wine scene both in Germany and in
neighboring France. They’re just starting to make waves –– converting all their viticulture to organic (certified as of 2015) and are experimenting like
crazy in the cellar. They have a pét-nat that’s so popular it sells out before they’ve even made it, and they make the best organic, entry-level liters of
dry Riesling and Weissburgunder you’ll ever find. The Nordpfalz borders the Rheinessen (their village is closer to Keller’s than to anybody famous in
the Pfalz), and that airy but firm sensibility informs these bright and mineral-laden wines.
Baden
Enderle & Moll
Enderle & Moll is really just two guys, a tiny cellar, a few hectares of old vines, and a hell of a lot of buzz – even Jancis Robinson has called them
“cult". Sven Enderle and Florian Moll farm a total of 2.1ha on the western fringe of the Black Forest. Most of their Pinot comes from two sites: one with
25-45 years old vines planted in colored sandstone (Buntsandstein), and one other miniscule plot (0.045ha total) from four tiny terraces, home to 60
years old vines (the oldest in the region) planted in shell limestone (Muschelkalk). All work in the vineyard is done by hand, yields are low, and
vineyard work is organic/biodynamic. Walking through the vineyard, it is easy to see where the Enderle & Moll plots begin and end, so clear is the
vitality of their vines and soil. Sven and Florian are hands-off in the cellar and it shows in the wines. Parcels are vinified separately, with one-third
whole clusters. Grapes are crushed in an old wooden basket press and then go into secondhand Burgundian barrels (mostly from Domaine Dujac).
Bottling, like everything else, is done by hand, and there is no fining or filtration. Because they don’t care for the quality criteria for Pinots in Baden,
they’ve decided to declassify their Pinot Noir as a Tafelwein, which legally disallows them from putting vineyard names on the label. Florian thinks it
foolish to automatically equate higher ripeness levels with better quality and that doing so often leads to overripe, high-alcohol wines with lots of
extract and a shortage of acidity and delicacy. These are delicious Pinots (to say nothing of their Müller-Thurgau, which is likely the best version of
that grape you will ever taste) of enormous integrity, made with undeniable passion and point of view. Also, Sven Enderle has the best facial hair in
the wine business with the possible exception of Jo Landron. Silly-limited production.
Shelter Winery
Hans-Bert Espe and Silke Wolf farm roughly 5ha in the not-so-famous region of Baden. Let’s go ahead and equate not-so-famous with not-so-ripe
and we get, immediately, a sense of the philosophy here. There are lots of words we would use to describe the bulldozer-Pinots we’ve tasted from
Baden over the years; delicacy would not be one of them. Until we tasted with Hans-Bert and Silke. This husband-and-wife team has spent the last
decade in the nooks and crannies of the wine-geek world, slowly building a reputation for pristine, delicate Pinot Noirs from Baden (there, we’ve used
the word). You might call them understated, though the rather petite structure and lively animation of the wines gives way to a mid-palate that is
awash with sweet perfumed fruit, transparent and mineral. In style, sensibility and size, they remind us quite a bit of Weiser-Künstler in the Mosel
(indeed they are all friends) – except this is Pinot Noir, from Baden. You may have to remind yourself of this when you’re tasting the wines.
Weingut Beurer
A one time European BMX champion running a small garagiste estate in Württemberg, at the farthest southern end of Germany, Jochen Beurer could
hardly be farther removed from the staid, landed traditions of his more Northern neighbors. His dry, terroir saturated wines from a variety of Jurassic
and Triassic soils on the hills around Kernen im Remstal have similarly little in common with historical conceptions of "German Riesling". These are,
first and foremost, "Swabian" wines, steeped in the traditions of a region that has long remained outside the national mainstream. The Beurer family
have farmed their land just outside of Stuttgart for generations, growing fruit and making wine that typically ended up in the bottles of the local coop.
Then, in 1997, Jochen, his wife, Marion, and father, Sigfried, set out on their own, making and bottling the wine for themselves. In 2003, Jochen
started experimenting with organic viticulture and spontaneous fermentations, converting fully to biodynamics over the next few years (now certified
by Demeter). Today, we can think of no other winemaker whose wines speak of the soil – a mixture of ancient lime and sandstones, and the ancient
Keuper soils beneath them – as much as Jochen’s do. Respect for nature and patience are reflected everywhere: in cool years, Jochen is inevitably
the last to pick, successive tries are the norm, and spontaneous fermentations follow their own course, usually including malolactic. Élevages are
similarly slow and careful, with wines being committed to bottle only when Jochen feels that the time is exactly right. The results are singular: a range
of completely unforced yet strikingly intense wines that are long, structured, and saturated in Swabian minerality.
Italy
Valle d'Aosta
Feudo di San Maurizio
Michel Vallet works in the small Alpine town of Sarre in the Valle d’Aosta region. The population of 4,878 people enjoy the sunniest part of this Alpine
valley as it climbs toward Mont Blanc. The icy air and warm sun give perfect tans to vintage skiers and a bevy of rare native grapes: Fumin, Petit
Arvine, Mayolet, and (even rarer) Cornalin and Vuillermin. Michel started in 1998 to recover three ancient stone terraced vineyards that were
abandoned during Italy’s ‘boom economico’ of the 1960s. He is slowly expanding the terraced areas to accommodate more vineyards. The wines are
not traditional in the rustic sense, nor are they modern in the highly-polished sense. What they do have is an exceptionally precise and tightly
composed architecture of fruits, minerals, and bitter components that neither leap out of the glass nor remain stubbornly shy. Hand harvested, native
yeast, minimal to no intervention in the cellar.
Piero Brunet
Morgex and La Salle are neighboring villages at the foot of Mont Blanc in the Alta Valle, or High Valley, of the Vallée d’Aoste. The local grape variety,
Prié Blanc, was brought to fame by Alexandre Bougeat who, besides serving as parish priest of Morgex, began bottling wine in 1964. In 1985, Piero
Brunet took over his family’s vineyards and purchased a part of the original vineyards of "Curé Bougeat". Piero, his wife, and their two daughters now
farm 4ha of high-altitude (1000-1200m), steeply-terraced, pergola-trained, own-rooted, organic vines and make just over 300 cases of their single and
singular wine. Lovers of heroic viticulture and Alpine wines, take note!
Ferdinando Principiano
It’s admittedly odd in today's age of 'Barolo as King' to introduce an historic Barolo estate in Monforte with its old school, 10.5% Dolcetto called "Dosset".
Yet, that wine informs Ferdinando Principiano's style for Barolo and all his other wines: elegant, natural wines with a watermark of traditional Barolo
terroir. Ferdinando began his conversion to natural winemaking in 2003, and nowadays his vineyards teem with wildflowers in spring. A wild and thick
leaf canopy provides shade to the grape clusters; early-picking tightens the acidity and lowers the alcohol. Whole-clusters are crushed by foot and
fermented without sulfur to give an ease and suppleness to the fruit. Here's finally a traditional Barolista taking on climate change, being thoughtful
instead of dogmatic about making natural-yet-princely Dolcetto and Barolo (and a few other native Piemonte varieties) to drink – instead of taste. A
total of 21ha of vineyards are located in Monforte and Serralunga, with a smattering in Alta Langa. The far southeast part of Barolo is an area off the
beaten path (for Barolo at least). Instead of dusty vine row after vine row, there are woods between the vineyards, and Ferdinando has created what
looks like an extra-large koi pond for migratory birds. The smell of grapes amid apples, pears, apricots, peaches, cherries, persimmons, almonds, figs,
prunes, and quince hint at the complex biodiversity here. Ferdinando Principiano is walking the line between tradition, natural wines, and a thoughtful
aesthetic of elegance that we want to drink some now, and cellar some for later.
FUSO
FUSO is PortoVino’s project to search for and bottle the best of Italy’s daily drinkers – the wines you’d find in a memorable trattoria or wine bar. Italians
have a long DIY tradition of filling up big, glass jug 'damigiana' from their favorite local producers and storing it in their garage or cellar to siphon off a
bottle or carafe when needed for lunch or dinner. In that spirit, FUSO works only with real producers, native grapes, low sulfur, practicing or certified
organic farming, and native yeasts. These are daily drinkers with character: a touch vinous, and lots of deliciousness. One day, PortoVino founder
Ernest asked Walter Massa (2011 Gambero Rosso Wine Grower of the Year) for a favor: Walter is most famous as the prophet of Timorasso in Colli
Tortonesi, but the area has a long tradition for delicious Barbera (including Walter’s Barbera ‘Monleale’). FUSO Barbera isn’t a private label with wine
from anywhere; it’s all estate fruit, vinified with a slow, traditional fermentation, and aged in concrete tanks. We work closely with Walter to choose the
vineyards and make the final cuvée.
M. Sokolin
After working as a sommelier in San Francisco at Michael Mina and Acquarello, Mitchell Sokolin decided to spend the last several years traveling the
globe learning to make in both hemispheres, at places like Mac Forbes in Australia. Finally, for his first solo project, he settled down in the southern
part of Castilla y León in Sierra de Salamanca. Always searching for new and interesting opportunities, Mitchell began sniffing around the Langhe
for his second project. Inspired by producers like Vajra, Olek Bondonio, Chionetti, and Abonna, Mitchell decided to search out interesting parcels of
Dolcetto, convinced that in the right hands, it can producer floral, perfumed wines full of interest and character. He eventually found the right site, a
beautiful north-facing slope on white soils, just on the Dogliani side of Monforte. The fruit was fermented in stainless steel with almost half as whole
bunches and the rest destemmed on top. After two weeks in tank, it was pressed off into old 300L barrels to finish fermentation. The wine made it to
bottle with no fining, no filtration, and no additions besides SO2.
Scarpa
We sometimes assume that the great, historic producers in Italy are all well-known in the U.S. But ask the old timers: "I remember Scarpa…"
Antica Casa Vinicola Scarpa has been producing traditional, aristocratic wines in the Monferrato hills of southeast Piemonte for 150 years. They
have vineyards, farmed organically, in the Langhe as well as the Monferrato. Mario Pesce, admired by both Giacosa and Gaja, made Scarpa’s
reputation in the late 20th century, and today Maria Pier Zola and her family carry on his tradition of aging all the wines for years, and sometimes
decades before release. Traditional sometimes means 'rustic', but that's not the case here; Scarpa produces elegant wines with arrow-like acidity
and well-aged tannins. Bottle evolution and vintage characteristics emerge instead of pointillist fruit. Be on the lookout for releases from the
family's 45,000+ bottle library.
Terre Sparse
When you travel from the Piemonte region into Valle d’Aosta, you pass through the pre-alpine growing areas of Caluso and Carema. Unfortunately,
as you drive along the road, you’ll also notice many abandoned terraces. There’s now a few less, grazie to Matteo Trompetto and his farm, Terre
Sparse. Matteo’s given love to those abandoned terraces, and life to a small traditional farm. There’s much work to be done and Terre Sparse is an
ambitious undertaking. It’s an area we don’t usually see many new wine producers popping up, let alone ones with working farms. And that’s a shame
since the soil and climate here are unique and warrant our attention. The Caluso DOCG sits a bit lower than the Carema DOCG, which is more Alpine
in nature. Both are located in a natural morainic amphitheater, whose soil composition of sand and other elements renders it alkaline, producing wines
with low alcohol and a savory quality. Matteo’s winemaking reflects the ethos of his organic farm; the wines have minimal intervention and use native
yeasts. Sulfur levels are low and coming down each year as he gains confidence (and feeds the family). These wines are not glou-glou; they have too
pithy of a texture, and the savory notes have a tinge of bitter, which maybe is a hallmark of many Italian wines. But they sure do go down easy after
day of hard of work on the farm.
Umberto Fracassi
Umberto Fracassi’s family has been producing Barolo since 1880, a time when Barolo went from being 'un vino dolce' to the grande vino secco that
we all know today. After the Second World War, Marchese Fracassi, or simply Umberto, dedicated himself to carrying on the family tradition of
producing old-school Barolo in Slavonian oak botti. The town of Cherasco sits at the northwest corner of the Barolo zone, just west of La Morra and
Verduno, and its growing area includes Fracassi’s 2ha Barolo monopole cru, Mantoetto. This area is also known as Italy’s capital of snail production.
Umberto also produces some white Favorita (Vermentino) that’s a good way to start a meal, as the Barolo is opening up in the decanter.
Vigneti Massa
It’s hard not to get worked up about Walter Massa’s wines. He had a vision for a variety nobody wanted (Timorasso), worked in obscurity for years,
rescued the grape, and doesn’t talk about himself but instead about the territory of Colli Tortonesi. When you get lost going there, start asking people
100 kilometers out; they all know and love him, from the gas station guy to the producer next door. You'll often hear it bandied about: "There are
thousands of native grape varieties in Italy!" That's true, but a lot of them are merely cute. Timorasso, however, deserves another category (and it’s
white to boot). It’s utterly unique, complex, capable of aging, and transparent to where it's grown. Walter is the 'contadino straordinario' who started to
replant the variety in the 1980s and remains the leading producer and go-to grower for Timorasso today. We often say that Timorasso is like Ali: 'Float
like a butterfly (baroque fruit and honeyed minerality) and sting like a bee (lots of well-integrated acidity). Remarkable and distinctive red wines made
from Barbera, Croatina, and Freisa demonstrate that Walter is more than just the "King of Timorasso".
Veneto
Bella Vita
While our focus is on small growers that work well in the vineyard and the cellar, we also understand the realities and needs of our customers. So,
we found a Pinot Grigio from Treviso that fits in qualitatively with our portfolio, and that we feel good about offering at a great price. Made by the third
generation, sibling winemaking team of Annalisa, Alessandro, Carlo, and Luca Botter (also responsible for Bella Vita Montepulciano from their
holdings in Abruzzo).
FLORA
FUSO is PortoVino’s project to search for and bottle the best of Italy’s daily drinkers – the wines you’d find in a memorable trattoria or wine bar. Italians
have a long DIY tradition of filling up big, glass jug 'damigiana' from their favorite local producers and storing it in their garage or cellar to siphon off a
bottle or carafe when needed for lunch or dinner. In that spirit, FUSO works only with real producers, native grapes, low sulfur, practicing or certified
organic farming, and native yeasts. These are daily drinkers with character: a touch vinous, and lots of deliciousness. FLORA is the Prosecco made by
the family winery Col di Luna in the pre-Dolomites of Vittorio Veneto. This is a Brut Nature Prosecco, bone-dry, mountain flowers and honeysuckle
mixed with wild tart apples. The crown cap closure is the best there is to keep the wine fresh and fizzy and is also quick to open and enjoy.
Nevio Scala
Soccer fans know Nevio Scala as the player-turned-coach who took the underdog provincial team of Parma to become champions in the ’80s and ’90s.
His son, Claudio, just three vintages in, is echoing his father’s underdog success with the provincial volcanic-alluvial soils of the Colli Euganei in the
Veneto. Claudio puts the local grape of Garganega as center midfielder (the same grape that you find in Soave, though not always without a touch of
Sauvignon Blanc). Claudio picks just before the grapes are perfectly ripe, and he’s not scared of a bit of oxidation. Work in their 8ha of vineyards is
completely organic, but they also raise crops such as wheat, barley, hemp, and beans, and hedge the vineyards with hazel, elder, and wild roses to
encourage biodiversity and give a nesting place for useful local fauna. In the cellar, all fermentations are spontaneous, minimal SO2 is added only
when needed, and everything is bottled unfined and unfiltered. What results are delicate, volcanic-spicy, and refreshing wines, with a hint of oxidation
to add complexity.
Serata
While our focus is on small growers that work well in the vineyard and the cellar, we also understand the realities and needs of our customers. So, we
found a Prosecco that fits in qualitatively with our portfolio, and that we feel good about offering at a great price. Located in San Polo di Piave, this family
winery has been around since 1427 and began its organic conversion in the 1980s. Today, the estate is fully certified organic, and the wines are all
fermented with indigenous yeasts with very low (to no) additions of sulfur. Clean, crisp, lively bubbles that are an amazing value and will please even the
biggest wine geeks!
TreMat
Azienda Agricola TreMat was founded in 2009 by Gianni Bartolin, whose family has been growing grapes in Veneto since the early 1900s. The name of
the winery translates to "three times crazy" and refers to Gianni being written off as a fool by other producers in the area, namely for his conviction and
adherence to natural and slow grape-growing and winemaking practices. His sensibility as a farmer and winemaker is inspired by the pre-industrial
viticultural traditions of Valdobbiadene (long, native fermentations, macerating 'sulle bucce', not disgorged/'col fondo' method, etc.). Gianni's vineyard in
the hamlet of Santo Stefano is regarded as one of the crown jewels of the region as it is one of the steepest vineyards in the Conegliano Valdobbiadene
DOCG and has always been worked by hand. The vineyard was first established by Gianni's grandfather and great-grandfather 80 years ago with
alternating rows of the antique varieties of Valdobbiadene: Perera, Verdiso, Bianchetta, and Glera. Vines grow at 380m in thick humus topsoil with banks
of limestone and gravel beneath. Farming follows the holistic principles of Japanese Kiyusa Nature Farming (aka "do nothing farming" developed in the
1970s by Masanobu Fukuoka). The goal is to increase vitality and microbial diversity of soils through the application of preparations of beneficial
microorganisms (think probiotics) coupled with organic agricultural practices. After harvest, grapes for "Vinell" are left to dry ever so slightly for 6-7 days
using the 'appassimento' method. Grapes are crushed and macerated on the skins for four days, then pressed and left to ferment spontaneously in
wooden cask on fine lees for six months. The wine is bottled for secondary fermentation in bottle using must from the same vintage (col fondo method),
and is released unfined, unfiltered, and without the addition of any SO2.
Emilia-Romagna
Bulli
Bulli is a traditional gem of a producer from the northwest corner of Emilia-Romagna in the Colli Piacentini, those steep hills just south of Piacenza
squeezed between the Po river to the north and the Apennine mountains to the south. The area itself is sleepy, a time-capsule from the 1940s, with
farmers that still have that askance look of their forefathers, those ex-Roman soldiers who tended vines in retirement. There’s a long tradition of making
'frizzante rifermentato in bottiglia' in this area, and Bulli has been doing it for five generations since the late 1800s. The Bulli family is humble and happy
to serve locals every day from their repurposed horse stall where all the sparkling in-the-bottle fermentation happens. Leonardo, the current generation
of Bulli to tend the vines and make the wines, is especially proud of the fact that they never used SO2; in fact, 'senza solfiti aggiunti' is written on their
original vintage-kitsch style labels they have used since the 1950s. One key that helps preserve their wines and gives them a sprightly character is the
soil. Bacedasco Alto is the town where the Bulli family has their house and horse stall-cellar, and it is right next to an important geological park that
contains a series of ancient limestone calanques from the Pliocene period. These are the kind of wines we are proud to work with: a rich history,
complex soils, organic farming, handcrafted natural wines, and good people.
Mariotti
Mirco Mariotti's vineyards are located in the eastern ‘Romagna’ part of Emilia-Romagna, an area much less known than the western Lambrusco area
of Emilia. In fact, you’ll notice that Mirco’s wines use an Emilia IGP designation for what should be Romagna IGP – if only it existed. Nevertheless, it’s
a place with lots of local color, there’s a beach nearby, and folks often play cards here into the night, accompanied by sweating bottles of their own
DIY sparkling wines from the local grapes. Mirco, too, had started off making some of these DIY wines made from his own vineyards in the Bosco
Eliceo area. The vines are old, some planted in 1952, some well over 100 years old. All are on native rootstock (piede franco), as they are planted in
the beach sand, just 300 meters from the waves. Mirco chooses to work exclusively with the local varieties: Fortana, the low alcohol, high acid red
with some pretty rustic-rusty tannins, ideal for a refreshing rosato, and Trebbiano Romagnolo and Malvasia di Candia for the bianco, where the
savory, herbal, salty aspect of growing vines so close to the beach really comes through. After hand harvesting, the first fermentations are all with
native yeasts in concrete tank. Secondary fermentation is in bottle, using must from the same harvest instead of adding sugar. There is one gentle
decantation, but other than that, the wines are not filtered or disgorged. Kick off your sandals, light up the grill, deal the cards. This farmer fizz is a
good bet on rare, local varieties that are unique, delicious, and without pretense.
Toscana
BRUSCO
FUSO is PortoVino’s project to search for and bottle the best of Italy’s daily drinkers – the wines you’d find in a memorable trattoria or wine bar. Italians
have a long DIY tradition of filling up big, glass jug 'damigiana' from their favorite local producers and storing it in their garage or cellar to siphon off a
bottle or carafe when needed for lunch or dinner. In that spirit, FUSO works only with real producers, native grapes, low sulfur, practicing or certified
organic farming, and native yeasts. These are daily drinkers with character: a touch vinous, and lots of deliciousness. “Brusco” is still used in the
Tuscan dialect today defining a person or thing that is off the cuff and a bit rough but genuine through and through. This is 100% Sangiovese made by
one of our Chianti Classico producers, Tenuta Maiano from their certified organic estate fruit in Montespertoli, Tuscany. Soils are limestone with silt
below composed of marine sand and clay. The fruit is all destemmed with fermentation and aging in old-school cement tanks with native yeast.
Il Borghetto
If you think you’ve seen all of Chianti’s expressions, Il Borghetto’s extremely detailed and ethereal Sangiovese may surprise you. Owner Antonio
Cavallini is an outsider, as the Chianti consortium has often denied him DOCG status for his wines. They cite his use of Burgundy bottles and other
"problems" with the wine. As Bob Dylan sings in Absolutely Sweet Marie, "To live outside the law, you must be honest." And it’s no secret that some
of Italy’s best producers, some of it's most honest producers, are living "outside the [DOC/G] law." Antonio organically farms 5ha of vineyards and
12ha of olive groves in Montefiridolfi, a hilltop town in the northwest corner of Chianti Classico. The area could be considered a 'sottozona' or
subzone of the San Casciano zone. The clay soil with some limestone has excellent water retention and gives wines with finesse, freshness, and
elegance, even during hot and dry vintages. The vineyard consists of an interesting mix of Sangiovese clones and biotypes (e.g. F9/R24 Biondi Santi
clone). The harvest takes place in multiple passes row by row. The musts are then fermented in multiple parcels in the cellar before a final blending.
Antonio ferments using a percentage of whole clusters, which is unusual in Italy. This technique gives the wines a distinctive aromatic elegance and
silky tannins. The approach in the cellar, in general, is minimal intervention, including native yeast fermentations in large open concrete vats or plastic
containers. There are no pumps, and all racking is with gravity. Herbal notes, crushed flowers, and elegant fruit describe the wines in general. If these
Sangiovese wines are made by a Chianti outsider, I say let him in.
Le Masse di Lamole
Lamole could be thought of as a sub-zone of Chianti Classico with its unique, high altitude vineyards (400-650m), grown on marl and sandstone soils.
Lamole produces elegant wines that are often described as 'profumati' or aromatic (red fruits, rosa canina, Iris flower, orange zest), with structure built
more on acidity rather than tannins. Toscana, yes, but nothing rustic here. Le Masse di Lamole has the highest vineyards in the area at 650m. The
mountaintop vineyards are unprotected and are home to some 100+ year-old, albarello (bush) vines, many of which are planted on their own roots
(thanks to the sandstone soils in the area). Sometimes I think owners Anna Maria and Giuliano worship Zeus, for their Sangiovese is electric. A very
humble cellar is cut out of the wall of a medieval borgo. Vinification is done in steel without temperature controls, then botti di castagno (Chestnut, not
Slavonian oak) of 15 and 25 HL that don’t have a manufacturer’s name since they were made by local artisans over 100 years ago. Lamole is a
special area and there are few wines I wouldn’t want to drink there. But, I have to put an extra wink in for Le Masse. Maybe it’s just me and a perverse
desire to swallow Sangiovese-lightning and live to tell about it.
Ranchelle
The best wine producers have their own brand of authenticity, and it comes through in the wines. Christoph Fischer is a long-time German expat
who’s fixated on a preservation project (recupero) of Maremma’s abandoned vineyards and varieties. The Maremma area lies mostly along the
Tuscan coast. It’s a place where the ancient Etruscans once cultivated vines and where the Butteri (Tuscan cowboys) still roam. Morello di Scansano
is perhaps the best-known wine from the Maremma. It can offer juicy fun, but the old local varieties here are way more soulful. We know of no one
doing such interesting work as Christoph in the area: all organic farming, all native yeasts, extremely low sulfur. Soils are an even mix of sand,
limestone, and clay. Christof works from a one hectare plot of 60 year-old albarello (bush) vines in an area named on old maps as Millocchio: literally
a ‘thousand-eyes’ (mille + occhio). According to locals, it was an area where there were once so many vineyards on the hills that thousands of vine
buds would look down on you. From that one abandoned vineyard, he has planted two more hectares using massale selection. Both wines (one white
and one red) ferment to dryness in open-topped fermenters with skin contact for about three weeks and punchdowns twice a day using a multi-
pronged mandrone stick that he got from an old farmer in the area. Christoph’s makeshift cellar was a Super Alimentari (corner grocery store) in the
1970s. It’s extremely clean now. After a light pressing, most of the juice goes into used 500-liter tonneaux; about 30% goes into stainless steel tanks.
A tiny amount of sulfur is used only when he blends the two parts.
Umbria
Marco Merli
Over ten years ago, Marco Merli left a career as a clothing designer to find his true calling as 'naturalista' farmer on 7ha of high altitude vineyards in
Umbria that his father Enzo had purchased as a retirement project. In the past few years, Marco has searched for local, abandoned, old-vine vineyards
just outside of Perugia, in a town called the House of the Devil (Casa del Diavolo) to add to the project. Marco brought right away a rigorous yet
'selvatica' esthetic to the wines, each a slice, or layering of slices, of the wildness of the Altotiberini hills. He works with traditional grape varieties, often
planted together in field blends he parses out in the cellar. Fermentation takes place parcel-by-parcel, variety-by-variety, before eventual final blending
in dozens of re-conditioned small cement or fiberglass tanks. Sangiovese, Cigliegiolo, old vine (40-50 years) Trebbiano Toscano, and Verdicchio are
varieties you’ll recognize from central Italy. His use of Grechetto di Orvieto (not Grechetto di Todi) in his blends and the single varietal bottling "Venco"
underpins the esthetic Marco strives for. The variety's wild acidity and bitterness are cut with techniques, such as partial whole-grape fermentation and
various blending of the different soil parcels, in a way that the wild, eco-chic rustic part remains intact.
LE SALSE
FUSO is PortoVino’s project to search for and bottle the best of Italy’s daily drinkers – the wines you’d find in a memorable trattoria or wine bar. Italians
have a long DIY tradition of filling up big, glass jug 'damigiana' from their favorite local producers and storing it in their garage or cellar to siphon off a
bottle or carafe when needed for lunch or dinner. In that spirit, FUSO works only with real producers, native grapes, low sulfur, practicing or certified
organic farming, and native yeasts. These are daily drinkers with character: a touch vinous, and lots of deliciousness. This wine is made by Cantine
Belisario, a high-quality co-op in Matelica, whose members are all committed to working sustainably and organically in the vineyards. It’s our response
to the ocean of Pinot Grigio that has washed up on U.S. shores: refreshing, versatile, glug-able, but with the real character that most Pinot Grigios lack.
The vineyards are on top of a Jurassic-period raised seabed, near saltwater springs called 'le salse' (from 'sale' meaning salt) at an altitude of 450m.
Lazio
Podere Orto
Podere Orto lies on Lazio’s high plains at 600m elevation in an area called L’Alta Tuscia Viterbese, or simply Tuscia. It’s a bit of a Bermuda Triangle,
between Italy’s center and south, at the 'trivium' of Lazio, Umbria, and Tuscany. When Chianti Classico is getting too hot in the summer, this is a good
place to come to cool off. Many of the grapes grown here are biotypes of varieties found in Toscana, but these wines are more nervous, with more
tension and a skeined elegance. Part of this is due to the diverse varieties, but just as important is the high altitude and complex soils, including blue
limestone marls. Giuliano Salesi and Simona De Vecchis planted their vineyards here in 2009 from a massale selection gleaned from abandoned
vineyards in the area. In 2011, they completed the restoration of their small farmhouse and cellar. Today, they are making fine, natural wines with
minimal intervention: there are no chemicals used in the vineyards, instead preferring biodynamic treatments, weeds are all pulled by hand, and the
wines are fermented with native yeasts without any additives. The resulting wines are a keen, fine, and natural expression of utterly unique varieties
and soils.
Abruzzo
Bella Vita
While our focus is on small growers that work well in the vineyard and the cellar, we also understand the realities and needs of our customers. So, we
found an old vine Montepulciano that fits in qualitatively with our portfolio, and that we feel good about offering at a great price. Made by the third
generation, sibling winemaking team of Annalisa, Alessandro, Carlo, and Luca Botter (also responsible for Bella Vita Pinot Grigio from their holdings
in the Veneto).
Colle Trotta
In 2006, Maurizio di Nicola aided by his great-nephew began the work of recuperating a century-old farm in the village of Colle Trotta, situated in the
shadow of the 2900m Gran Sasso mountain in Abruzzo. The crops include farro fields, fruit and olive trees, and 3.5ha of vineyards. Maurizio calls the
wines Q500 (Quota 500) because all of the vineyards sit at 500m or higher (and incidentally, they look down on Valentini’s). Farming is certified
organic, fermentations are indigenous, and the wines are unfiltered.
Campania
Antica Masseria Venditti
Back in 1988, the Italian wine guide Gambero Rosso introduced the word "organic" for the first time in its review of Venditti’s wines. Those who still
believe that “organic” equals “unscientific” should think again. Nicola Venditti is both an enologist and the very incarnation of a contadino (farmer). The
vineyards have been in the family for over 400 years — thus the “antica” part of Antica Masseria — and he is deeply passionate about his territory of
Sannio, adjacent to better-known Taurasi. Nicola eschews oak and kneels at the altar of steel, thus letting all of the wines really show the clean and
distinct fruit of their native grapes (some of which only he cultivates). His cantina is squeaky clean, and he gladly whistles out pH and acid levels for
those inclined. This humanist-techno-geek approach, he explains, is a combination of the “humanity” of ancient methods and local varieties, together
with the “rationality” offered by technology. The new "Assenza" (meaning, "not containing" or, "absent of") wines are made completely without SO2.
Cantine Matrone
The Matrone family has been cultivating vines on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius, just east of Naples, since the 1700s. Fast forward to this century,
when Andrea Matrone and his cousin Francesco reappropriated the original 18th-century family cantina and 2.3ha of vineyards on the southern
slopes of Vesuvius. If Etna’s volcanic wines are noble, Vesuvius’ are wild, with potassium and iron-rich volcanic soils providing more funky bitter and
salt notes. There’s a bianco made mostly from Caprettone (which may be none other than Trebbiano d’Abruzzo according to Andrea), a part of which
sees two days of skin contact, and a rosso made mostly from Piedirosso with other local varieties. Farming is uncertified organic and fermentations
are with a pied de cuve from the local vineyard yeasts. This is another compelling, young producer springing from an old family tradition — a
combination that increasingly is making some of the most exciting wines in Italy.
Pierluigi Zampaglione
Pierluigi Zampaglione’s family has farmed tomatoes, grains, and beans for generations in the town of Calitri, located 75 miles east of Avellino in the
Alta Irpinia. In 2002, Pierluigi decided to plant 2ha of Fiano vines at 800 meters of elevation and to make a single wine called "Don Chisciotte" (Don
Quixote – among other things, Pierluigi sees his vineyards and himself as tilting at the windmill farms that dot the Alta Irpinia landscape). Farming is
certified organic. All stainless steel, native yeasts, extended skin contact, very little sulfur, no other additives, and no filtration. The wine is complex
and chock full of character on the highest elevation Fiano vineyards we know of.
Puglia
CALX
FUSO is PortoVino’s project to search for and bottle the best of Italy’s daily drinkers – the wines you’d find in a memorable trattoria or wine bar. Italians
have a long DIY tradition of filling up big, glass jug 'damigiana' from their favorite local producers and storing it in their garage or cellar to siphon off a
bottle or carafe when needed for lunch or dinner. In that spirit, FUSO works only with real producers, native grapes, low sulfur, practicing or certified
organic farming, and native yeasts. These are daily drinkers with character: a touch vinous, and lots of deliciousness. CALX Primitivo is made by Filippo
Cassano. Filippo's certified organic vineyards are located in Gioia del Colle, a quick 30-minute drive inland west of Bari and home to the highest
elevation vineyards in Puglia. Soils are deep red clay with an underlying base of pure limestone, which, when combined with the elevation, gives
wines that have plenty of fruit, while still retaining their freshness and minerality. Fruit from Filippo's 20-year-old vines is hand-harvested, fermented
with native yeasts in stainless steel, and also aged entirely in steel with only a small amount of SO2 added for bottling.
Sardegna
Cardedu
The vineyards of Cardedu (car-DAY-do) are in the area of Ogliastra, the most mountainous and least populous province on the island; a land of
turquoise shimmer and ragged-dry cliffs. Here on the southeast coast of Sardegna the Loi family grows and makes wines from the native varieties
Vermentino, Cannonau, and Monica. Cardedu is one of the island's better-known (in Sardegna, at least), traditional producers. The Loi family doesn’t
think of itself as a natural wine producer; they are not in that hipster 'giro'/circle. Yet, all wines are fermented with native yeasts in temperature
controlled tanks (if needed), and there’s dry farming without the use of herbicides or pesticides.
Sicilia
Alcesti
Gianfranco Palladino and family are making honest, pure wines from local grapes in the Marsala region of Sicily. Certified organic farming and hand-
harvesting in a region and price-point that isn’t always the norm. Our idea of fresh, Sicilian wines ready to drink; both are fermented and aged in
stainless steel.
CALA
FUSO is PortoVino’s project to search for and bottle the best of Italy’s daily drinkers – the wines you’d find in a memorable trattoria or wine bar. Italians
have a long DIY tradition of filling up big, glass jug 'damigiana' from their favorite local producers and storing it in their garage or cellar to siphon off a
bottle or carafe when needed for lunch or dinner. In that spirit, FUSO works only with real producers, native grapes, low sulfur, practicing or certified
organic farming, and native yeasts. These are daily drinkers with character: a touch vinous, and lots of deliciousness. CALA is a collaboration between
Dario Serrentino or Mortellito with his good friend Francesco Sciré, an organic viticulturist in the Val di Noto in Sicily’s southeastern tip. Dario wanted
CALA Nero d'Avola to be light-on-it's-feet drinky, but not lose sight of that telltale Nero d’Avola warm spice and earth. So, he followed Franco’s vineyards
and had them pick just a bit early, and added a dollop (10%) of the local, punchy white, Grillo. Dario believes that the desert-like calcareous soils and
cool night air here help temper alcohol and give lift to the wines. And so it would seem with CALA, which drinks like a welcome oasis of shade, corrective
and invigorating. Chill CALA down and it’s like swimming in the Ionian Sea at sunset.
I Custodi
Mount Etna is a current darling of the Italian wine scene, and I Custodi is among the 21st-century Etna Renaissance producers who are now making
wines as compelling as the active volcano’s cooled lava flows. Founder Mario Paoluzi has teamed up with Etna guru Salvo Foti and I Vigneri, the local
vineyard workers who tend the ancient albarello vines and volcanic terracing. The Etna Rosso "Pistus" (mostly Nerello Mascalese) comes from Etna’s
north slope, where the wines are known to be structured and savoury. In 1774, the Florentine scholar Sestini called them ‘navigabile’ or ship-worthy,
keeping after long voyages. Don’t miss 150+ year-old vines mostly-Nerello cru "Aetneus". The racy Etna Bianco "Ante" (mostly Carricante) comes
from 1200m high vineyards on the sea-influenced eastern slopes; raw fish come alive with this wine. "Alnus" is the traditional ‘pista e mutta’ (press
and rack) Etna rosato. Organic.
Mortellito
Val di Noto sits in the southeast corner of the Sicilian triangle, dipping down to the latitude of North Africa. In spite of the warm climate, the local
varieties (especially Grillo and Frappato) and white limestone soils are capable of producing balanced wines with tension and moderate alcohol. Dario
Serrentino, after years of selling off his grapes (to naturalistas Frank Cornelissen, Lamoresca, inter alia), started to vinify and bottle his own wines in
2014 as Mortellito. Dario is a naturalista as well, but he insists on making clean wines that taste extreme only in their deliciousness. He works his
family’s 25ha, 15 of which are under vine; the rest are a mix of ancient olive groves and heirloom almond varieties. His wines have a tempered
hedonism, a mix of 'taking' in the sun (as the Italian idiom goes), and then 'taking a bath' in the salty-cool sea.
Spain
Galicia
Adega Sernande
Adega Sernande is a project born of the friendship between Ribeira Sacra natives María Aira Pumar and Antonio López Casas and Gredos vigneron Orly
Lumbreras. The trio met at a natural wine event in Galicia where Orly was showing his wines, kept in touch, became good friends, and eventually
succeeded in launching an incredible project together. Orly has a strong connection to Galicia, having spent a formative decade living in Santiago de
Compostela before moving with his young family to Madrid, where he discovered the world of natural wine. After working alongside Alfredo Maestro in
the austere mountain village of Navarredondilla, Orly fell in love with Grenache and the Sierra de Gredos and decided to pursue a second career in
winemaking (he is a sound engineer by training). Orly admits, however, to obsessing over Galicia’s intense landscapes as he developed his point of
view as a winemaker; he yearned to interpret the Ribeira Sacra’s characterful local varieties. In 2014, when María and Antonio invited him to make a
wine together from their vertiginous parcel of Mencía on the edge of the River Sil, he jumped at the chance. The project takes its name from the village
of Sernande, where the trio built out a small winery in an old stone house in time for the 2018 vintage. The heart of Adega Sernande is the historic
winemaking village of Vilachá de Salvadur, home to an epic panorama of slate and schist terraces of vines, stacked straight up from the shores of the
Sil. This is the steep, swirling vista that gave Orly Lumbreras 'vertixe' (“vertigo” in Gallego) the first time he visited Vilachá. María’s father used to have
a winery in the area and her brother farms the family’s vines. Her razor-sharp palate quickly became the guide for Adega Sernande’s aesthetic. Antonio
is a relentless vineyard sleuth, scouring the Ribeira Sacra’s legendary twists and turns for hidden vineyard gems that the Sernande team can adapt,
explore, and interpret. The results are sensitive micro-vinifications that reveal layers of this region through an exciting new lens.
Benaza
The wine region Monterrei is located just above Portugal in the province of Ourense. Monterrei is a relatively new DO but possesses a long history of
winegrowing, and at the moment is experiencing a renaissance in winemaking. The climate is relatively dry and warm for Galicia and more continental
than Atlantic. The soils are a mix of clay and alluvial. Benaza Godello is a balanced, drinkable, and food-friendly vino blanco. It expresses the unique
personality and inherent qualities of the Godello grape and Monterrei terruño. Benaza Godello is a cuvée made especially for Vinos de Terruños in
collaboration with Álvaro Bueno, a vintner with deep roots and intimate knowledge of the Monterrei region. Fermented in stainless steel vat and
raised on the lees for up to a year.
La Milla
Rías Baixas represents the lowlands of Galicia, with an elevation generally less than 300m near the sea and the lower reaches of the rivers, giving
the region a distinct Atlantic influence with mild temperatures and high rainfall. Here, Albariño finds its natural habitat. La Milla is a cuvée made in
collaboration with third generation winegrower and winemaker Angel Parada. It is sourced from an organically and biodynamically farmed plot of old
vines (up to 80 years old) in the sandy soils of the Soutomaior subzone of Rías Baixas. After hand harvesting, spontaneous fermentation and aging
occur entirely in stainless steel tanks.
Pago Cativo
The Ribeiro DO is located in southern Galicia in the confluence of the valleys formed by the Miño, Avia, and Arnoia rivers. These valleys protect the
region from Atlantic squalls, providing an Oceanic-Mediterranean transitional climate that allows fruit to ripen while preserving acidity and freshness of
aromas. Ribeiro is also home to a slew of traditional, indigenous varieties such as Brancellao, Caiño Tinto and Blanco, Souson, Treixadura, and more,
which yield incomparable wines with strong personalities. Pago Cativo is made especially for Vinos de Terruños in collaboration with winemaker Álvaro
Bueno. Fruit is sourced from biodynamically farmed vineyards up to 70 years old on the classic granite and slate soils of the region. Only indigenous
varieties are used, and the wines are fermented with native yeast in stainless steel.
La Rioja
Siete
Siete Rioja comes from a second generation family farm using environmentally friendly methods for producing the best wines. Vineyards are divided
among several municipalities – Calahorra, Andosilla, and San Adrián – all within Rioja Baja. The soils are diverse, with limestone dominating, but also
sand, clay, and gravel. Siete is a wine made especially for Vinos de Terruños in collaboration with brothers Andrés and Ramón Serrano, pioneers in
organic farming in Rioja Baja. Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Mazuelo are each vinified separately in stainless steel before final blending.
Navarra
Naipes
The region of Navarra is located northeast of the Rioja border. It’s a region that enjoys three distinct climatic influences: Atlantic, Continental, and
Mediterranean, as well as a great variety of soils types and elevations. This makes Navarra one of the most interesting regions for viticulture in Spain.
The fruit for Naipes is sourced from the town of Carcar located in the Ribera Alta sub-zone of Navarra. Due to its limestone subsoils, high elevation,
and accompanying temperature fluctuations between day and night, it is a well-known area to produce excellent wines based on Garnacha Blanca and
Tinta. Naipes is made in collaboration with the brothers Andrés and Ramón Serrano, pioneers in organic and biodynamic agriculture in Navarra. The
wines are certified organic and biodynamic by Demeter and fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks to highlight the fruit and minerality
of the region.
Castilla y León
La Capra Loca
This wine is made in Pesquera de Duero, in the Valladolid province of Ribera del Duero. This vineyard’s location is characterized by very cold winters
and hot summers. The wide variations in temperature between day and night contribute to a slower ripening of the grapes and provide excellent
levels of acidity. La Capra Loca is a cuvée made especially for Vinos de Terruños in collaboration with the viticulturist Federico Fernandez of the
Fernandez family, who has a great wine tradition in Ribera del Duero and are pioneers in developing the Tempranillo grape in Pesquera de Duero.
Fermented in stainless steel and aged 6 months in American and Hungarian oak.
M. Sokolin
After working as a sommelier in San Francisco at Michael Mina and Acquarello, Mitchell Sokolin decided to spend the last several years traveling the
globe learning to make in both hemispheres, at places like Mac Forbes in Australia. Finally, for his first solo project, he has settled down in the
southern part of Castilla y León in Sierra de Salamanca. The grapes for this wine come from a vineyard planted in 2004 as part of research
collaboration with the regional government. Called "La Espaldera" ('trellis' in English), it represents the most comprehensive collection of the known
clones of Rufete. While the trellised, cordon-pruned vines are a departure from the more traditional bush vines of the region, it is tightly planted on a
steep WNW-facing slope of decomposed granite and quartz, supported by hand-built stone terraces. It has been farmed organically (and certified as
such) since it was planted, and the winemaking follows a very minimalist approach, with SO2 as the only addition.
Vevi
The wine region Rueda is located in the heart of Spain, in the southwestern part of Castilla y León. It is high in elevation and possesses a continental
climate with wide shifts between very warm days and cold nights. Rueda has a long tradition of winegrowing and is the ancestral home of the noble
Verdejo grape. Verdejo makes one of the most distinctive white wines in all of Spain. Vevi Rueda is a cuvée made especially for Vinos de Terruños in
collaboration with Silvia García, an organic farmer and vintner with deep roots and intimate knowledge of the Rueda region. Vevi expresses the
unique personality of the native Verdejo grape, along with the inherent qualities of the Rueda terruño. It is a balanced, drinkable, and food-friendly
vino blanco. Fermented in stainless steel vat and raised on the lees 6-8 months before bottling.
Aragón
Bielsa
The wine region Cariñena is located just southeast of Navarra in the province of Zaragoza. It is part of the larger political region of Aragón, the area
considered to be the ancestral home of the Garnacha grape. Cariñena possesses an ideal terruño for growing and making wine from old vine
Garnacha. The soils are poor and limestone based. The climate is continental, with hot days to ensure ripening and cool nights to preserve acidity,
along with a unique cooling influence from a wind that blows from the north, called Cierzo. This cooling influence helps give unusually delicate
aromatics and elegant wines from the late-ripening and potentially alcoholic Garnacha grape. Bielsa Garnacha is meant to be a drinkable and food-
friendly wine that expresses the unique personality and inherent qualities of self-sustaining, old vine viticulture and the Cariñena terruño. It is a cuvée
made especially for Vinos de Terruños in collaboration with Ana Becoechea, a vintner with deep roots and intimate knowledge of the Cariñena region.
Fermented and raised 3 months in American barrels. Bottled unfiltered.
Catalunya
Bernaví
Marco Bernava and Ruth Fullat met on the beach as teenagers, when Marco and his buddies road-tripped from their home near Milan, Italy to vacation
on Ruth’s local beach on the Catalan coast. In the years that followed, they exchanged love letters and taught each other Spanish and Italian. Eventually,
Ruth moved to Italy and they both became winemakers. After years of running large, technical, they decided to return to Catalunya in search of a place to
settle down and start a small, family project. The potential of Terra Alta’s unique location on the southwest border of Catalunya (where the Mediterranean
zone meets the Spanish highlands) and fascinating local 'panal' soils (deep, silty loam with limestone and gypsum) to make fresh and interesting wines
drew them to the historic winegrowing village of Vilalba dels Arcs. The salty finesse of Garnatxa Blanca from Terra Alta blew them away, as did the rare
old plantings of Morenillo, a high-acid native red variety that is experiencing a revival among the region’s forward-thinking vignerons. Terra Alta’s relative
affordability gave Marco and Ruth the freedom to develop personal interpretations of Terra Alta’s local varieties, to take risks, and explore (Marco
particularly loves the way Montepulciano reacts to 'panal' soils, for example, and blends it with Morenillo to delicious effect). Bernaví’s vines are farmed
organically, as are any grapes purchased from their neighbors. In the cellar, they seek clear, nuanced wines through the use of stainless steel and large,
used foudres (no barriques or new oak). Their value label, Xalera, showcases a light and playful side of Terra Alta at a great price. The Bernaví lineup is
composed of subtly rebellious, racy, and complex wines that combine the fine structure from calcareous terroirs with jewel-toned Mediterranean fruit at
low alcohols.
Portugal
Duriense
Mary Taylor
When founding partner Mary Taylor first fell in love with wine in the early 90s, it was the European classics that truly spoke to her and stole her heart.
As a young professional selling wine, she quickly learned to appreciate wine in the “Old World” way — not as a luxury good reserved for special
occasions, but a living agricultural product that belongs to everyday life. After many years working with the wines of Europe, Mary arrived at an
important insight. Left in the dark by decades of simplistic marketing efforts that placed grape above geography, American consumers needed a
brand they could trust to decipher the complex notion of terroir in a clear and straightforward way. Out of this realization, the “White Label” series
was born. Today, it is Mary’s mission to unlock the world of European appellation wines by working with individual growers in multiple villages — from
Bordeaux to Nîmes to Valençay to the Douro and beyond — who produce exceptional, regionally-distinctive wines at extremely accessible prices. In
the traditional spirit of the Old World, each Mary Taylor wine has been selected as a faithful ambassador of its geographic origin, true to local traditions
and the vision of the individual farmer who bottled it. All fruit is farmed sustainably or organically, only indigenous varieties are used, fermentations are
with native yeast, and only inert vessels are used for aging to yield a set of wines of genuine quality and integrity that will bring the magic of their
terroirs to life wherever you choose to enjoy them.
Georgia
Kakheti
Chona's Marani
Chona’s Marani is a family winery located in Telavi in the Kakheti region. The family has a long tradition of producing natural wines entirely in Qvevri
that has been passed down for generations. 36-year-old Mikheil Chonishvili is the current generation to make the wines here, but the entire family is
still involved in preserving these natural and ancient winemaking techniques. The Chonishvili family sources fruit only from their own 2ha of organically
farmed vineyards located in the Tsinandali micro-zone of Kakheti at 500m elevation. Fermentation and aging occur entirely in underground Qvevri with
native yeasts, and the wines age on their skins in sealed Qvevi until spring when they are opened for tasting (accompanied by Georgian polyphonic
singing). Bottled without fining or filtration and only a minimal addition of SO2, these wines show how these ancient techniques can produce some of
the most elegant natural wines today.
Orgo
Orgo, a small, artisan winery located in the Kakheti AOP in eastern Georgia, is a project between Georgian winemaker Gogi Dakishivili and his son
Temur Dakishvili. Temur’s youth and energy coupled with Gogi’s experience and wisdom create a unique partnership that both honors the centuries-old
Dakishvili family winemaking tradition, yet strives to make it new again each year. Their mission is to make singular, unique wines that add their own
voice to the 8,000-year-old Georgian winemaking tradition. To this end, Orgo only works with old vine, 50-80-year-old vineyards, with yields as low as
1.5kg of grapes per vine-tree. Sourcing from old vines is an extremely rare and difficult project in Georgia since during the Soviet era, these older
vineyards were ripped up and replaced to increase production. The wines are all fermented spontaneously with native yeast and age in traditional clay
Qvevri with very low sulfur additions. In addition to Orgo, Temur and Gogi have created Dila-o as a way to show off these traditional Georgian
winemaking techniques while overdelivering on price.
Kartli
Tevza
Goga Tevzadze established his traditional micro-winery at his home in Mtskheta in the Kartli region of Georgia in 2018. After starting a small, craft
distillery, Goga eventually left to pursue his love of winemaking. Tevza is focused on producing lively, natural, and highly expressive wines from the
unique and ancient grape varieties of Kartli. The wines are made from younger vine, 10-14-year-old vineyards with super low-intervention work in the
cellar. Fermentations are spontaneous in 900-1,300L traditional Qvevri with extended maceration, and the wines are bottled with no filtration.
Imereti
Baia's Wine/Gvantsa's Wine
Baia Abuladze is a young woman, who together with her sister, Gvantsa Abuladze, and their family in Obcha, Imereti in the west of Georgia, are bringing
new life and energy to a region with a storied history but whose winemaking traditions had suffered greatly during communist times. Baia began studying
viticulture and winemaking by working with her grandfather when she was younger. Starting in 2015, Baia, who was then only 22 years old, decided to
bring new life to her family's 1.5ha estate and wine cellar. With the help of some grants specifically for female winemakers, she procured the necessary
tools to bottle their first vintage in 2015 of just 5,000 bottles. Over the years, Baia and Gvantsa have been making unique, woman-made wines with the
desire to preserve (and expand upon) the 8,000-year-old Georgian winemaking tradition. Baia's and Gvantsa's wines all center around the indigenous
grapes varieties of Imereti. Located in the western part of Georgia closer to the Black Sea, Imereti is more humid than eastern Georgia thanks to a
mountain range that traps the humid sea air, leading to uniquely adapted grape varieties with higher acids. Work in the cellar is generally divided by
grape color, with Baia working primarily with the local white grapes Tsitska, Tsolikouri, and Krakhuna, while Gvantsa handles the reds, made from
Otskhanuri Sapere, Ojaleshi, and Aladasturi. Fermentations are all spontaneous and sulfur additions are kept to a minimum. Most wines of the wines
age in traditional, buried Qvevri with extended skin contact (on both whites and reds), although they do also work with some stainless steel. Over 50%
of Georgia's agriculture sector workforce is comprised of women, but there are only have a handful of women winemakers in Georgia. We are inspired
by the vision, energy, and, of course, the wines of Baia and Gvantsa that showcase this unique region and rare grape varieties!
Guria
Dato's Wine
Dato Kobidze of Dato's Wine makes fascinating and expressive natural wines from his family vineyard in Ereketi in the western region of Guria bordering
the Black Sea. His wines are precious: often made from rare grapes and produced in small quantities, celebrating indigenous Gurian varieties that nearly
disappeared during the Soviet era, all of which are made traditionally in Qvevri. In past vintages, Dato has offered fascinating wines, such as a Qvevri
rosé from the uncommon, tree-climbing variety Chkhaveri, fruit-forward reds from the autochthonous variety Aladasturi, and wines from almost extinct
varieties such as Jani and Skhilatubani. Look for more exciting things to come from this hero of Western Georgian viticulture!
Brea
Brea is a collaboration between "New California Wine" OG, Chris Brockway of Broc Cellars, and wine importer and logistics veteran, Tim Elenteny.
Their goal is to craft site-specific, terroir-driven, sustainably-farmed versions of beloved California grape varieties, such as Chardonnay, Cabernet
Sauvignon, and Pinot Noir. By working closely with farmers and choosing unique vineyard sites, the two are able to craft classic expressions of these
grapes while also keeping them accessible in both price and quality, ready to drink now but also suitable for short term aging. The work is natural in
the cellar, utilizing only native yeasts for fermentation, with no added bacteria, enzymes, or powdered tannins, no new oak, and minimal use of sulfur.
These are real deal, unadulterated expressions of Cali fruit that we believe are a big step above most “private labels”.
Broc Cellars
After growing up in Nebraska and working in Seattle, Chris Brockway arrived in California to study winemaking. Following a textbook education at UC
Davis and Fresno State, Chris’ experience of drinking and enjoying more low-intervention, natural wines persuaded him to take a somewhat different
path than most of his classmates. In 2002, he began working at an urban winery in Oakland before leaving in 2006 to set up his own label from a
small industrial unit in Berkeley. Today, he runs his operation from a slightly bigger premises around the corner, but the focus remains the same:
producing site-specific wines from off-the-beaten-path vineyards or with unique, heritage grapes varieties, working only with fruit that is organically or
biodynamically grown, and taking a decidedly hands-off approach in the cellar, with only natural ferments and no additions other than sulfur when
needed. Chris' work continues to push the boundaries of "The New California", and his wines are some of the most compelling, terroir-expressive
examples being produced in the state today.
Colston Biblio
Originally from Cincinnati, Matty Colston spent the last decade in Chicago working in the wine and restaurant biz at places like Webster's Wine Bar,
Telegraph, Rootstock, and was most recently the Beverage Director at Parachute Restaurant since its opening in 2014. However, his experience has
weaved its way into his love for many things beyond the calls of a traditional sommelier. With the release of his Biblio wines, he aims to portray these
facets in a way that highlights a soulful thread of expression by the way he collaborates with winegrowers, artisans, authors, and even musicians.
"CB001" is his first wine and the first release of a future catalog that will create form and artistic expression through a love for curating and taste-making
available to everyone.
Limited Addition
Chad Stock (formerly of Minimus, Omero, and Origin) and his wife Bree Stock, MW have come together to create their new project, Limited Addition,
formed around their belief that there is still more to be considered in the Willamette Valley. After their departure from Minimus, the husband-and-wife
team took the opportunity to recreate their ideal work relationship, free from investors, and with a desire to continue their work exploring alternative
varieties and pushing the boundaries of what is possible in Oregon. Limited Addition are personal, handmade wines raised from Chad and Bree’s long
collaborations with inspired farmers to develop a diverse and sustainable wine landscape in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. They are committed to
expanding the conversation around sustainable practices in the wine industry; this is not limited just to farming philosophies but is also deeply rooted
in a commitment to farmers and farm-workers who rely on the wine industry to sustain them. For these reasons (along with Chad’s constant need to
explore the possibilities), Ltd+ works with a unique assortment of early, mid, and late-ripening grape varieties that allow labor to extend throughout the
growing season, which helps provide economic security to farmers and farm-workers. Limited Addition wines are made as the vintage dictates and
inspires. Additive-free and without recipe, there is just a curiosity to express the best of the grape and the place from a given moment in time.
Maryland
Old Westminster Winery
Nestled in Carroll County, Maryland’s rolling countryside, Old Westminster Winery is the Baker family’s project to preserve their family farm and put
their land to work to craft distinctive wines with a sense of place. They set out in the spring of 2011 by planting Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Chardonnay,
and Albariño in their Home Vineyard at 800ft elevation on channery loam soils overlaying a bedrock of greenstone schist. In addition to their own
vines, Old Westminster works closely with neighboring vineyards to source fruit from a variety of soil types and expositions, allowing them to represent
the region’s diverse geologies and variable climate. In the vineyards, they implement a pragmatic farming program using environmentally sound
materials; mostly organic (and even experimenting with biodynamics), but also synthetic when it's known to be more effective and less intrusive for
Maryland’s demanding climate. Drew Baker, who handles the vineyard work, systematically rotates sprays to avoid resistance and reduce the volume
of necessary applications and utilizes diverse cover crops to promote beneficial insects and vines with stronger immune systems that need fewer
inputs. In the winery as well, the goal is to produce wines that reflect both the vineyard and vintage with minimal additions. Drew’s sister, Lisa Hinton,
who handles winemaking duties, achieves this by hand-picking and sorting the fruit, using gravity rather than pumps, fermenting all wines with
indigenous yeast, and bottling without fining or filtration. They are also experimenting with carbonic maceration and skin-contact whites, have gone
all-in on an impressive set of pét-nats, and have even produced the first true natural wines in can! Through the Baker family's collective expertise,
meticulous vineyard care, and thoughtful cellar practices, they have already managed to produce distinctive wines that are a pleasure to drink and
are putting Maryland wine on the world map.
Argentina
Mendoza
Campo
We are proud to introduce Campo. Old-vine, organically-farmed fruit, made with low intervention: wild yeast fermentation, no acid adjustments, no new
oak... Pure, straight-forward Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon from Argentina that don’t taste like blueberry pie!
Cider
France – Loire Valley
Julien Thurel
In Loury, about 30 minutes northeast of Orléans on the edge of the forest, the young Julien Thurel is undertaking one of the most ambitious and
exciting projects in France, attempting to resurrect the long history of cider production in the Loire Valley. Starting with just 1ha of certified organic
orchards, Julien is working with five local apple varieties as well as four local pears, plus a handful of varieties from Brittany (where he originally
learned cidermaking). He is also planting more trees just outside of the newly constructed chai, but many of these old varieties indigenous to the
Loire can take 8-12 years before they yield usable fruit. Alas, Julien is in this for the long haul. All fruit is harvested by hand and undergoes a long, 6
to 8-month fermentation with native yeast in old oak barrels. Secondary fermentation is in bottle (méthode traditionnelle), and Julien releases
everything undisgorged, as he finds this allows bottles to remain fresh open for a longer time. These are some of the most vinous, complex, and
structured cidre and poiré being produced in France today. Julien is also incorporating some local, organic honey for his triple fermentation cuvée,
"Mellicidre", as well as the still dessert/aperitif "Cydromel" (which also happens to be amazing for cocktails). With only a few vintages under his belt,
we can't wait to see what the future holds for this already impressive project.
France – Southwest
Domaine Séailles
Domaine Séailles is one of the pioneers of organic viticulture in the Côtes de Gascogne region of Southwest France. A family-owned estate since
1961, Séailles is now run by Jean Labérenne, who lead the domaine to Ecocert organic certification in 1997, swearing off all chemical fertilizers,
herbicides, insecticides, and synthetic chemical products. Located in the town of Ténarèze, which is unique in the region for its limestone soils, Jean
farms a total of 25ha of hillside vineyards with help the of Julien Lanclet and Laurent Lefèvre, even saving 2ha of vines to make the traditional spirit
of the region, Armagnac. The distillation is carried out at the domaine using an old, direct wood flame heated still, and the resulting spirits are aged
in 400L barrels for a minimum of 20 years.
Italy – Piemonte
Monterosa
Monterosa is a new, artisanal Vermouth project in Alto Piemonte from Daniele Garella, brother of Cristiano Garella of Colombera & Garella fame.
Daniele hand-picks herbs in Alto Piemonte around Mount Rosa, including “muttolina”, a local biotype of genepy. Cold extractions of the herbs help
preserve their delicate volatile oils. The base wines for both Vermouths are grown and made locally: Erbaluce for the white, and mostly Nebbiolo for
the red. These are an exciting, new chapter in the century-and-a-half-old tradition of Piemontese Vermouths.
Scarpa
We sometimes assume that the great, historic producers in Italy are all well-known in the U.S. But ask the old timers: "I remember Scarpa…"
Antica Casa Vinicola Scarpa has been producing traditional, aristocratic wines in the Monferrato hills of southeast Piemonte for 150 years. They
have vineyards, farmed organically, in the Langhe as well as the Monferrato. Mario Pesce, admired by both Giacosa and Gaja, made Scarpa’s
reputation in the late 20th century, and today Maria Pier Zola and her family carry on his tradition of aging all the wines for years, and sometimes
decades before release. Traditional sometimes means 'rustic', but that's not the case here; Scarpa produces elegant wines with arrow-like acidity
and well-aged tannins. Bottle evolution and vintage characteristics emerge instead of pointillist fruit. Be on the lookout for releases from the
family's 45,000+ bottle library.
Italy – Sardegna
Silvio Carta
The Carta family has been making (and storing) wine in the sleepy coastal town of Oristano for generations. The local grape is Vernaccia (though not
the one from Gimignano). The vine was possibly introduced by the Phoenicians or it was cultivated from wild vines of the Tirso valley. The style is
"oxidative", but no Englishman created or discovered this wine (as happened in Marsala). And maybe that’s a shame because these wines deserve
to be better known outside their home. The wine is vinified dry, and the nose is chalky and intriguing. Multiple aged vintages are available. The
register is something new for us, falling somewhere amid the mineral tones of Fino, the nuttiness of Marsala, and a bit of passito fruit.
Spain – Valencia
Vidte
Vidte Vermouths come from the La Marina Alta sub-zone of Alicante, a region with many years of history in both wine and vermouth production. The
climate is Mediterranean giving these vermouths distinctive herbal characteristics. The soils of La Marina Alta are very limy, with low levels of clay
and very little organic material, giving very high-quality base wines. Vidte Vermouths are made in collaboration with winemaker Pedro Sarrión, an
oenologist with extensive knowledge in the production of wines from Alicante and Castilla-La Mancha. The base wines are made from the traditional
varieties Muscatel and Merseguera and are then macerated for several months with a combination of local Mediterranean aromatic herbs.
Wine Cocktails
Spain – Castilla-La Mancha
El Chiringuito
El Chiringuito is a project created by Vinos de Terruños in collaboration with the Delgado brothers, pioneers in organic farming in Castilla-La Mancha.
Named after the small beach bars selling drinks and tapas in coastal Spain, the intention is to create an authentic, organic version of the local favorite
drink, Sangria, transporting the aromas of beach evenings, summer times, and moments with friends. The Delgado brothers use only certified organic
grapes for the base wines and blend them with organic Valencian orange and lemon juice, with no sugar added.
Dessert
Name Vintage Grapes Size Pack Importer SLO Code
France
Domaine de Saint Pierre Vin de Liqueur "Les Larmes du Paradis" NV Chardonnay/Trousseau 750mL 6* MFW 570474
Mélaric Coteaux de Saumur "Funambule" 2013 Chenin Blanc 500mL 6* MFW 603343
Mélaric "Liquoreux de la Cerisaie" VdF Blanc 2011 Chenin Blanc 500mL 6* MFW 603342
Vins Hodgson "MF Doux" Rancio VdF Blanc 2016 Chenin Blanc 500mL 6 MFW 613741
United States
Eden Ice Cider "Heirloom Blend" NV ('13) Empire/McIntosh/++ 375mL 6* MFW 569675
Eden Ice Cider "Windfall Orchard" NV Heirloom Blend 375mL 6* MFW 569676
Eden Ice Cider "Northern Spy Barrel-Aged" NV ('13) Northern Spy 375mL 6* MFW 569677
Sparkling/Pét-Nat
France
Bernard Vallette "Née Bulleuse" VMQ Rosé NV Gamay 1.5L 6 597106 562442
White Wine
France
Domaine des Rouges-Queues Bourgogne Aligoté "L'Aligator" 2017 Aligoté 1.5L 6 MFW 613682
Georges Millérioux Sancerre "Les Collinots" 2015 Sauvignon Blanc 1.5L 6* MFW 625940
Germany
Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Spätlese Feinherb (11) 2019 Riesling 1.5L 6* MFW 624056
Italy
Bella Vita Pinot Grigio IGP Veneto 2019 Pinot Grigio 1.5L 6 MFW 538943
I Custodi Etna Bianco "Ante" 2017 Carricante/Grecanico/++ 1.5L 6* PV 617303
Rosé Wine
France
Bernard Vallette "La Rose Gorge" VdF Rosé 2019 Gamay 1.5L 6 MFW 624042
Germany
Weingut Beurer Württemberg Rosé Trocken 2019 Trollinger/Portugieser/++ 1.5L 6* VB 620778
Stein Mosel Rosé Trocken 2019 Pinot Noir/Cab Sauv/Merlot 1.5L 6* VB 620983
Italy
Marco Merli "Jacone" Vino Rosato 2018 Sangiovese/Ciliegiolo 1.5L 1 PV 622285
Red Wine
France
Le Clos des Jarres "Insouciance" IGP Aude 2018 Caladoc/Merlot 1.5L 6 MFW 625974
Elian Da Ros Côtes du Marmandais "Le vin est une fête" 2018 Abouriou/Cab Franc/Merlot 1.5L 6 MFW 622709
Benoît Roseau "Petit Patagon" IGP Collines Rhodaniennes 2015 Syrah 1.5L 6 MFW 579560
Bertin-Delatte "Rabatière" VdF Rouge 2017 Grolleau 1.5L 6* MFW 608469
Mélaric Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame "Clos de la Cerisaie" 2017 Syrah 1.5L 6* MFW 604063
Le Clos des Jarres "Une pour 2" IGP Aude 2017 Carignan 1.5L 6 MFW 608516
Domaine des Rouges-Queues Coteaux Bourguignons "Celsius" 2017 Gamay 1.5L 6* MFW 613690
Domaine Thillardon Chénas "Les Carrières" 2018 Gamay 1.5L 6* MFW 611602
Elian Da Ros Côtes du Marmandais "Histoires de Boire" 2018 Merlot 1.5L 6 MFW 622711
Domaine Thillardon Chénas "Les Vibrations" 2018 Gamay 1.5L 6* MFW 611601
Domaine des Rouges-Queues Maranges "En Buliet" 2017 Pinot Noir 1.5L 6* MFW 613686
Benoît Roseau Côte-Rôtie "Coteaux de Tupin" 2016 Syrah 1.5L 6* MFW 605016
Italy
Bella Vita Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2018 Montepulciano 1.5L 6 MFW 538945
I Custodi Etna Rosso "Pistus" 2017 N. Mascalese/N. Cappuccio 1.5L 6* PV 617301
Scarpa Barbera d'Asti "Casa Scarpa" 2016 Barbera 1.5L 1 PV 617441
I Custodi Etna Rosso "Aetneus" 2011 N. Mascalese/N. Capuccio/+ 1.5L 6* PV 617297
Scarpa Barbera d'Asti "La Bogliona" 2006 Barbera 1.5L 1 PV 617438
Spain
Adega Sernande "Mil Vueltas" Vino Tinto 2018 Mencía/Caíño/Palomino/++ 1.5L 3* ARW 625860