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CHRISTIAN BAU

BAU.STEINE
CREATIONS AND RECIPES: CHRISTIAN BAU
CONCEPT AND TEXT: DR. CHRISTOPH WIRTZ
PHOTOGRAPHY: LUKAS KIRCHGASSER

v;·c:t9r�
FINE
DINING
BY CHRISTIAN BAU

MATTHAES VERLAG GMBH


A dfv media group company
#will #teamspirit #respect #humility #skill #craft #loveofnature #serviceconcept
#taste #pursuitofquality #attentiontodetail #creativity
>>DO THINGS
WITH PASSION OR
NOT AT ALL!<<

CHRISTIAN BAU
CONTENT

9 INTRODUCTION 16 MENUS & REPORTS 344 BASIC RECIPES 354 PARTNERS


10 SCHLOSS BERG 340 VICTOR'S RESIDENZ­ 351 TEAM 356 THE CREATIVE ONES
14 BAU.STEINE HOTEL 353 THANKS 356 IMPRINT

Menu I Menu II Menu 111


19 >JAPANESE ROCK AND 65 BROWN CRAB 111 RED GAMBERONI
VEGETABLE GARDEN< XO CREME I SAKE GRANITA I CAVIAR I APPLE I LARDO SNOW

RAW ANO PICKLED VEGETABLES I JASMINE RICE

ICED CORIANDER I PONZU

115 BLUEFIN TUNA


71 AIJ [JAPANESE JACK
CUCUMBER I COMBAVA I BLACK
23 CHAR [IKEJIMEI MACKEREL] RICE VINEGAR
HERBS I KOHLRABI I HORSE RADISH APPLE I CAVIAR I CREME CRU

121 LANGOUSTINE
29 GREEN ASPARAGUS 74 TORO TUNA KOSHIHIKARI I DAIKON I DASHI BE-

>MONSIEUR ROBERT HEARTS OF PALM I TRUFFLES I URRE BLANC

BLANC< DASHI

RED SUMAC I YUZU I MISO


125 JOHN DORY
79 DOVER SOLE CARROT I PAK CHOI I SAVOURY

SPICY GAZPACHO I FRESHWATER MISO SOUP


32 HALIBU T PEARLS I EXOTIC MOUSSELINE
PEAS I MORELS I CHICKEN I
VIN JAUNE 130 VEAL•
85 KUROBU TA PORK SWEETCORN I SPINACH I TRUFFLE

[BACK AND TROTTER]


39 CHAWANMUSHI
YAMS I EDAMAME I JAPANESE
SNAILS I MUSHROOMS I GARLIC
CHIVES
SANSHO PEPPER 137 VENISON
AUBERGINE I ONION I
SAUERBRATEN SAUCE
89 PIGEON
43 BEEF FROM JAPAN
BLACK PUDDING I JERUSALEM
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE I WAKAME I
TRUFFLE
ARTICHOKE I RED AROMAS 143 VERBENA
PEACH I RASPBERRY I MERINGUE

95 BLACK FOREST
49 >SPRING AWAKENING<
CHERRIES
RHUBARB I BERRIES I BUTTERMILK 147 DARK CHOCOLATE
HOMMAGE TO BACK HOME
OLIVE Oil I CALAMANSI I
FLEUR OE SEL

55 >SOUVENIR FROM ASIA<


10 0 >RING OF DESIRE<
PANDAN I NASHI PEAR I GINGER
PISTACHIO I RASPBERRY I LIME

REPORT REPORT REPORT

59 BADEN 105PARIS 151 TOKYO


Menu IV Menu V Menu VI Menu VII
157 >DELUXE< SUSHI 203 SALMON FROM LOCH 249 >MEMORIES OF JAPAN< 297 SCALLOPS
KING CRAB I GILLARDEAU DUART [THE BELLY) SEAFOOD I PONZU I RED SHISO SASHIMI I MIKAN I SEA URCHIN
OYSTERS I BIJOU DE LA MER ICE CREAM
OYSTER I KUMQUAT I CUCUMBER

254 JAPANESE YELLOWFIN


161 BLUE LOBSTER 300 SALMON FROM THE
209 GOOSE LIVER FROM MACKEREL [SASHIMII
GREEN ZEBRA I BUFFALO AD OUR
LANDES YUZUKOSHO I BUTTERMILK DASHI I
AVOCADO I CITRUS I JALAPENO
MOZZARELLA I DASHI MELON
ARABICA COFFEE I PIEDMONT IMPERIAL CAVIAR
STOCK
HAZELNUT I SOUR CHERRY

164 ARTICHOKES 258 BLUE LOBSTER


WALNUT I TRUFFLES I POMELO 305 RED GAMBERONI
213 SCALLOPS CARROTS I CALAMANSI I COMBAVA
YAMS I THAI CURRY I PAK CHOI I
PUMPKIN I CHICKEN I WHITE OIL I CORIANDER BISQUE
BERGAMOT
TRUFFLE
170 TURBOT
RAZOR CLAMS I SPINACH I 265 ZANDER
311 BLACK COD
KATSUOBUSHI 217 SEA BASS [IKEJIMEI GREEN VEGETABLES I PEARL
OYSTERS I CAULIFLOWER I KOMBU
BBQ-EEL I AUBERGINE I KOJYU ONIONS I FOAMED DASHI
VINAIGRETTE
175 HOT & SOUR SOUP
>DELUXE< 317 CREAMY KOSHIHIKARI
269 THE BEST OF VEAL
SEAFOOD I FOIE GRAS I TRUFFLES 223 VENDEE GUINEA FOWL DIM SUM I HAZELNUT I ALBA WHITE
ABALONE I TRUFFLE I FOIE GRAS

RAZOR CLAMS I SMALL


TRUFFLE
ARTICHOKES I PRESERVED LEMON

181 LAMB 321 DUCK FROM


AUBERGINE I PEPPERS I M'HAMSA I >MONSIEUR MIERAL<
228 FLAT IRON STEAK 273 WILD HARE FROM THE
BLACK GARLIC BLACK SALSIFY IN SAKE I
CORN STRUCTURES I BLACK SOLOGNE BEETROOT I DIM SUM
GARLIC I ONION HEART OF PALM I ASIAN BROCCOLI I
PURPLE CURRY
187 WILD STRAWBERRIES
PLUM WINE I GREEN SHISO 327 >JAPANESE SNOWBALL<
SORBET I CRISPS
233 CITRUS FRUITS RED SHISO I CALPICO I YUZU SAKE
GREEK YOGHURT I 279 >JAPANESE MOMENT<
CANDIED OLIVES I SPONGE MATCHA TEA I LYCHEE I
GREEN SHISO
191 COCONUT YUZU ICE 330 >SNICKERS 2018<
CREAM
237 BANANA SPLIT PEANUT I CHOCOLATE I CARAMEL I
VITAMIN-RICH FRUITS IN TEXTURE MALOON SALT
[RELOADED) 283 >BAU.STEIN<
BANANA I CREAM I TAHITI TONKA BEAN I PEAR I RED WINE
VANILLA I CHOCOLATE

REPORT REPORT R E PORT REPORT

191 TIIE KITCHEN 243 SERVICE 2s9 FRIENOS 337 2 0 , I•:/\ RS


I I( I OR'S l'I\ 1: DI \I \G
I!\ CIIRISTI \\ ll\U
/

INTRODUCTION /

The title of this unique book, with its innovative recipes and impressive photos, is a play­
on-words in German: Christian Bau, voted Chef of the Year in 2018, whose name means
>build< has literally cleared some blockages in making his path. The art of cooking must
move with the times. But the somewhat stiff presentation which used to be the norm in
fine gastronomy created a blockage - going as far as to create a certain fear of entering the
>Star temples< - particularly for those guests for whom pleasure without any feeling of
compulsion is paramount. Until the Bau era began, in 1998 in >Victor's Gourmet-Restaurant
in Schloss Berg< ...
Because the development of >Victor's Fine Dining by Christian Bau< which has now been
under his tried-and-tested management for 20 years, demonstrates that a finely balanced,
natural nonchalance considerably increases enjoyment and it can nonetheless be accompa­
nied by outstanding perfection and exceptional creativity. The loyal long-standing guests
and the continually growing crowds of new fans should be the highest compliment for
him and also encourage him to continue with his love of experimentation and desire for
maximum performance.

The 3-star cook himself likes to describe his cuisine as light, contemporary and metropolitan.
I am very happy to confirm that these attributes hold true. To you, the reader of this lovingly
created book, I wish hours of interesting reading and lots of fun trying out one or another of
these culinary surprises.

My thanks go to Christian Bau for 20 years of pleasure at the highest level.


And I'm looking forward to many more BAU.STEINE!

Hartmut Ostermann
Founder und Chairman of the Supervisory Board of the Victor's Group
SCHLOSS BERG

Schloss Berg, the small Renaissance castle in


Nennig, is very close to the borders of France and
Luxembourg. It has been home to the gourmet
restaurant >Victor's Fine Dining by Christian Bau<
since 1998. Here, Christian Bau and his dedicated
team welcome their guests with great warmth.
_..
-
: 1,

10

11
12
I
13
EXCERPTED DISHES

BAU • STEINE
Hit-lists are not an option where issues of culture pheral location at the far west of Germany - within
are touched on. Whether Monet should get more earshot of France, Belgium and Luxembourg. It most
points than Matisse, whether Wagner should be certainly also comes from Bau's grounded training
ranked higher in the opera rankings than Verdi (and and his personality structure. Effects are not his
if so, where?) - there's no sensible answer to this. thing, nor highbrow experiments or empty artistry.
Naturally, the art of cooking it's just the same - This stance must be boring for those who confuse
objectivity remains an illusion. Which, of course, innovation with substance. The remainder will find
doesn't mean that there are no benchmarks to in this book a collection of masterly formulated
measure from! If you follow the judgement of all menus, among which there's not one dish which
the relevant publications, in 2018, Christian Bau is doesn't taste outstanding - if precisely followed. A
at the peak of culinary development in Germany. somewhat unique characteristic.
>Chef of the Year<, top rated in all guides from Lon­ However the bit about following precisely is a bit of
don to Seoul , on this his 20th anniversary as a chef an issue. What comes across as so appetising and
Bau can look back on a spectacular evolution. He light, harmonious and elegant is the natural; result
is among the few chefs in this country whose clear of great skill and often virtually absurd effort. No­
signature is always unmistakable and who has pro­ body could expect that these plates which Christian
vided innumerable colleagues with inspiration or a Bau works on all day along with ten cooks can be
template for more or less successful plagiarisms. In easily copied at home at the home stove. However
October, he was presented with the German Order this book offers more than just aesthetic enjoyment.
of Merit by the President of Germany. »As a master Because the gratifyingly unpretentious Christian
of cooking culture and as a culinary ambassador, he Bau doesn't just think in terms of a sacrosanct to­
makes an outstanding contribution to a positive im­ tal art work, there are exemplary excerpts from his
age of Germany« as it said in the official statement. dishes in every chapter which illustrate highlight­
So, it's time to record the current status. ed aspects of Bau's cuisine - products, techniques
In 2018, Bau's oeuvre is characterised above all by and fundamental ideas. Above all Bau's cuisine is a
the greatest possible technical cooking effort, the logical, disciplined cuisine. Grounded, meticulously
most precise craftsmanship and uncompromising thought-out and tested. Because every component
obsession with details. Asiatic influences - Japanese of his dishes must be tasty, because nothing is al­
techniques and products, the aromatic abundance lowed on his plates good reason, nothing is just a
of Thailand - still play a major role. At the same time, decoration, they make it possible to present funda­
the classical French basis has become more obvious mental concepts and make them comprehensible. In
again with the years. Not as a step backwards but these excerpted dishes basic building blocks of an
as a confident, conscious decision. It's clear that impressive oeuvre - not systematically but intended
the days when Christian Bau had to prove himself to stimulate - are presented.
to everyone are long past. »I just want to cook what
I myself like to eat« he says confidently today, »and Dr. Christoph Wirtz
above all not go over the guests' heads!« Maybe this Freiburg in Breisgau, Summer 2018
consciousness comes from his restaurant's peri-
>JAPANESE ROCK AND VEGETABLE GARDEN<
RAW AND PICKLED VEGETABLES I ICED CORIANDER I PONZU

CHAR [IKEJIME]
HERBS I KOHLRABI I HORSE RADISH

GREEN ASPARAGUS >MONSIEUR ROBERT BLANC<


RED SUMAC I YUZU I MISO

HALIBUT
PEAS I MORELS I CHICKEN I VIN JAUNE

CHAWANMUSHI
SNAILS I MUSHROOMS I GARLIC CHIVES

BEEF FROM JAPAN


JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE I WAKAME I TRUFFLE

>SPRING AWAKENING<
RHUBARB I BERRIES I BUTTERMILK

>SOUVENIR FROM ASIA<


PANDAN I NASHI PEAR I GINGER
MENU

DI SH I

>JAPANESE ROCK
AND VEGETABLE
GARDEN-<
RAW AND PICKLED VEGETABLES
ICED CORIANDER
PONZU

Affilla cress Kimizu

Atsina cress Kojyu vinaigrette

Avocado cream Pickled vegetables

Chive oil Ponzu gel

Coriander ice pearls Radish and garden radish

Cucumber blossoms Red shiso

Cucumbers Rock chives

Daikon cress Shiso vinaigrette

Edamame Yuzu and miso ganache

Garden cress

18

19
DISH I

>JAPANESE ROCK AND VEGETABLE GARDEN<


RAW AND PICKLED VEGETABLES I ICED CORIANDER I PONZU

Yuzu and miso stones Dyed stones Kimizu

Kombu water 5g silver powder 120g egg yolk


350ml water 25ml water 50ml mirin
15g kombu 2 pinches of Xanthan gum 50ml rice vinegar
2 g bonito flakes Octopus ink Salt

Bring the water with the kombu to the Stir the silver powder into the water Mix all the ingredients into a fine
boil. Let it stand for 15 minutes and until a viscous silver dye is created cream in the Thermo mix at 85·c.
then strain. Bring to the boil again, and then bind with xanthan gum. Paint Season to taste with salt and pass
add the bonito flakes, let it stand 15 the frozen stones with silver dye, through a fine strainer.
minutes again and strain again. ensuring that they're completely cov-
ered without any gaps. Freeze again.
As soon as the dye is frozen, blacken Soy cucumbers
Stones with octopus ink. Freeze again and
(Note: The recipe will produce some store in freezer until required. In or­ 1 cucumber
40 stones) der to serve at correct temperature, 1 tbsp salt
place on plates covered with clingfilm 50ml low-salt soy sauce
40 ml kombu water (see above) 30 minutes before use. 50ml mirin
30g miso paste 25 ml rice vinegar
30g passion fruit puree
10ml yuzu juice Ponzu gel Halve the cucumbers lengthwise,
240ml cream remove centre, cut into 1.5mm slices
25g egg yolk 250ml chanponzu and place in salt. Leave for 1 hour
20g sugar 125ml water and then squeeze out the remaining
2g salt 40g sugar water. Stir the soy sauce, mirin and
2.6g Iota 4g agar-agar rice vinegar into a marinade and then
2 sheets of gelatine, softened and 4g gel Ian gum vacuum-seal with the cucumbers. Let
squeezed 2 g cassava stand for 12 hours and then drain.

Heat the kombu water, miso paste, Bring the chanponzu, water and sugar
passion fruit puree, yuzu juice, 40ml to the boil and bind with agar-agar, Vegetable rolls
cream, egg yolk, sugar and salt in the gellan gum and cassava. Leave to cool
Thermomix to 50·c. Bring the 200ml and mix in Thermomix until cool. 2 carrots
cream and Iota to the boil and pour ½ yellow radish (finished product)
the mixture into the Thermomix while ½ white radish
still running. Lastly, add the gela­ Avocado cream
tine. Then strain and pour the warm Cut the vegetables as follows: 1 mm
mixture into silicon moulds and blast 3 ripe, peeled avocados with stones thick, 10cm long, 1 cm wide. Store the
freeze. Release from moulds when removed yellow radish in its own juice.
frozen. 70g yoghurt
10g chervil
Note silicon moulds: Make your own 5g tarragon
moulds using food-grade-silicon and 10g coriander
small white stones (2.5-3 cm diame­ 10g basil
ter; 1.5-2 cm high). Juice of 1 lemon
Salt, pepper, sugar

In the Thermomix beat all the ingre­


dients into a cream, season to taste,
strain and refrigerate until required.
MENU

Vegetables for pickling Seared white radish and garden Chive oil Garnish
radish slices
1 bunch of radishes: cleaned, de­ 120g chives 1 pack each of: Atsina, affilla, red
pending on size, cut into four, six or 200g peeled white (thick) radish 60g broad leaf parsley shiso, daikon and garden cress and
eight pieces 8g garden radish 200ml sunflower oil rock chives
½ lotus root: 1mm slices, cut out in 3g salt
circles and quartered Cut out (1 cm diameter) slices from
½ cauliflower: florets, sliced 1mm the white radish with an apple corer Mix all ingredients in Thermomix to
thick and blacken completely with a culi- 80·c. Once this temperature is
10 white asparagus tips cleaned and nary torch. Then cut into 2mm thick reached, continue to mix for 3 min­
TO SERVE
quartered slices. Clean the garden radishes and utes. Then strain through a cloth
1 pack of beech mushrooms: cleaned, then also cut into 2mm slices. strainer and cool the remaining oil in
leaving about 6mm stalk a blast freezer. Then the oil can be Place 2 stones on a cool plate, posi­
100 g Chinese artichokes, cleaned and drained off (the unusable remainder tioned at 6 and 12 o'clock. Then place
washed Coriander ice pearls freezes to the bottom). the soy cucumbers at 3 o'clock and fill
4 stalks of fermented burdock (fin- the gaps in a circle with the prepared
ished product): cut into 4 mm, oblique 25g basil vegetable rolls (carrots, radish, yellow
slices and stored in own juice 25g coriander 150 ml shiso vinaigrette radish). Then arrange the remaining
PAGE 348
75g ginger vegetables decoratively in the vegeta­
1 stalk lemon grass ble circle and adorn with dabs of the
Vegetable stock for pickling Zest of 1 untreated lime Kojyu vinaigrette ponzu gel, avocado cream and kimizu.
Untreated kaffir lime zest Place the different types of cress on
600ml water 1 kaffir lime leaf 1 shallot the rolls and marinade the vegetable
300ml rice vinegar 5g galangal 50g white part of leek garden with shiso and kojyu vinai­
100ml mirin Vegetable oil 100ml Japanese leek oil grette. Lastly, trickle the chive oil onto
30g salt 100ml milk 50ml mirin the plate and scatter the coriander
30g sugar 50ml coconut milk 50ml mizkan vinegar ice pearls on the marinated vegetable
10 juniper berries 1 egg yolk 50ml white soy sauce garden.
20 white peppercorns 1 g Super Neut rose 1 pinch of Xanthan gum
6 bay leaves 1 sheet of gelatine, softened and 10g tapioca pearls
squeezed 10g chives, finely chopped
Bring all ingredients to the boil and
pour the boiling mixture over the Blanch the basil and coriander. Lightly Lightly saute the shallots and leek
prepared vegetables (except the saute the lemon grass, lime zest, a in 25 ml leek oil until colourless, then
yellow radish rolls and the burdock). little kaffir lime zest, kaffir lime leaf add mirin, vinegar and white soy
Let the vegetables stand for 48 hours and galangal in a little oil and add mild sauce.
and then store in a cool place. and coconut milk. Bring to the boil Then vacuum-seal and let stand
and then let stand for 20 minutes. for 48 hours. Then strain and bind
Then strain and mix in Thermomix with with xanthan gum in order to create
the blanched herbs at 80·c. Increase the base. Combine base with the
the temperature to 85 ·c and add the remaining leek oil in a ratio of 2:1
egg yolk, Super Neutrose and gelatine (2 parts liquid, 1 part leek oil) to
to thicken the mixture. Then strain use as a vinaigrette. Lastly, boil the
and leave to cool. Using a spray bot­ tapioca pearls until translucent and
tle, trickle the coriander mixture into then stir into the vinaigrette with
liquid nitrogen in order to create the chives.
the pearls. Then with a skimmer care­
fully remove the pearls, place them
on a plate and freeze until needed.

20
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21
MENU

DI SH II

CHAR
[IKEJIME]
HERBS
KOHLRABI
HORSERADISH

Buttermilk dashi

Char

Char caviar

Citrus gel

Dill oil

Herb salad

Horseradish

Horseradish ice cream

Kimizu

Kohlrabi

22

23
BAU.STEINE DISH II

Char is one of the few freshwater fish on


Christian Bau's menu as he normally pre­
fers the firmness and full flavour of saltwa­
ter fish. He makes an exception for char,
because of the exceptional quality of the
fish, killed using the traditional lkejime
method which allows it to retain its tex­
ture and the purity of its flavour. Handled
gently - marinated in sugar and salt for a
mere eight minutes, smoked for a minute
and then tenderly tempered - it is accom­
panied by a sauce that is considered to be
a Bau classic: clear butter milk whey, fla­
voured with kombu, shiitake mushrooms
and ginger, with a fine-beaded blend of dill
and miso oil. The nitrogen-cooled horse­
radish ice provides an elegant contrast to
the tepid char.
MENU

Char Buttermilk dashi · Horse radish pearls

500g salt 500 g buttermilk 250 ml cream


250 g brown sugar for sprinkling 50 g fresh horseradish, grated
Zest of 1 untreated lime For the whey, freeze the buttermilk and let it thaw Salt, pepper, sugar
4 x 800 g char filleted ready for cooking (killed out on a cloth strainer. 1 sheet of gelatine, softened and squeezed
using lkejime method) Collect the clear strained butter milk whey. Flavour
3 tbsp beech chips the 200 g clear butter milk whey as follows. Mix the cream and horseradish, bring to the boil
and season to taste with salt, pepper and sugar.
Mix salt, sugar and lime zest and keep in an airtight Use the Thermomix to produce a fine mixture,
container until required. Bone and skin the char. Flavouring of buttermilk whey strain and then dissolve the gelatine into the mix-
Then cut along spine. Store the belly in a cool place ture. Using a spray bottle, trickle the horseradish
for further use. Set the skin aside for making chips 8g kombu mixture into liquid nitrogen in order to make
(see page 26). Remove any fat from the back of 6 g edamame, dried the pearls. Then with a skimmer carefully remove
the fish and cut into 12 cm long, approx 65 g pieces. 1 g Shiitake mushrooms, dried the pearls, place them on a plate and freeze
Dry marinate the back pieces for 8 minutes in 1.5 g ginger, dried until needed.
the mixture of spices. Then wash and dry off with 1 g garlic, dried
kitchen paper. Using beech chips, smoke for 1 min- 0.2 g xanthan gum
ute in the smoking oven on an oiled tray. 20 ml dill oil (see page 348)
10 ml miso oil (see page 348)

Heat the whey together with the flavouring to


80 ·c and let stand for 1 hour. Then strain and bind
with xanthan gum. Mix the two oils together in a
fine-beaded mixture before serving.

24
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25
DISH II

CHAR [IKEJIME]
HERBS I KOHLRABI I HORSE RADISH

Char Buttermilk dashi


- - -
-PAGE 25 --------PAGE 25

Char skin Flavouring of buttermilk dashi


PAGE 25

Char skin (see page 25)


1 tbsp clarified butter Herb salad
Salt, pepper
½ head of fine green frisee lettuce
Remove any impurities from the char skin and lay 1 tbsp parsley tips
flat on a lightly-buttered piece of baking paper. 1 tbsp chervil tips
Season sparingly with salt and pepper and then 1 tsp dill tips
cover with a lightly-buttered piece of baking paper. 1 tsp fine coriander leaves
Gently weighted down with another baking tray 10 tarragon tips
bake in the oven for 20 minutes at 180 'C. Whilst ½ pack daikon cress
still hot cut into form and season. Keep dry in ½ pack of red shiso cress
Hold-o-mat at 65 'C for a further 3 hours. until 4 leaves of radicchio lettuce
needed. 50 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)
Salt, pepper

Mix the tips of the washed frisee lettuce with the


herbs and mix with the cress. Cut the washed
radicchio lettuce into fine slices and add to the
mixture. Marinate everything with the vinaigrette
and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Kimizu

75ml mirin
64ml mizkan vinegar
180 g egg yolk
Salt, sugar

Mix together in Thermomix to 85 •c until thick.


Pass through a fine strainer and season to taste
with salt and sugar.
MENU
I

Citrus gel Picklestock Seared kohlrabi

15 g calamansi puree 60ml water ½ large kohlrabi


60g bergamot puree 30 ml rice vinegar Salt
45 ml yuzu juice, freshly pressed 10 ml mirin 2 tbsp shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)
180 ml water 2 g salt
30g sugar 2 g sugar Cut out 1.5 - 2 cm diameter cylinders out of the
4.2 g agar-agar 1 juniper berry kohlrabi with an apple corer. Sear the cylinders
4.2 g gel Ian gum 1 bay leaf with a culinary torch until a black crust is formed.
1.8 g cassava 2 peppercorns Cut the seared sticks into 1 mm thick slices. Lightly
salt before serving and marinate with the shiso
Bring all ingredients to the boil and allow a gel to Bring all ingredients to the boil and pour over the vinaigrette.
form. Then use the Thermomix to beat the mixture vegetables.
into a smooth gel.
Garnish
Kohlrabi sticks
Horse radish pearls 200 g char caviar
PAGE 25
1 large kohlrabi Fresh horseradish
2 tbsp shiso vinaigrette (see page 348) 1 pack marigolds
Kohlrabi leaves 1 pack cornflowers
Cut 16 sticks per person out of the kohlrabi Shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)
16 pickled kohlrabi loops (see below) (3 cm long, 1 mm edge) and marinate with shiso
128 kohlrabi sticks vinaigrette.
48 hijiki
1 pack daikon cress

TO SERVE

Pickled kohlrabi loops 10g dried hijiki


25 ml low-salt soy sauce Coat the marinated char with liquid butter and
½ large kohlrabi 20ml mirin place on a foil covered tray in Hold-o-mat at 60 ·c
50ml rice vinegar for 15 minutes (core temperature 36 "Cl. Then place
Cut 16 strips from the middle of the kohlrabi 10g sugar in the centre of the plate. Lay a 5 mm wide strip
(10 cm long, 1 cm wide, 1 mm thick), pour the hot 15ml water of the char caviar on the char and then dress with
pickle-stock over them and marinate for 12 hours. fresh horseradish. Decorate the caviar with kimizu
Keep the edges. Boil the hijiki in water until al dente. Heat the soy and citrus gel dabs and garnish with marigold and
sauce, mirin, rice vinegar, sugar and water together cornflower blossoms. Arrange the herb salad on the
to 80·c and add the al dente hijiki. middle of the char and top off with a char chip.
Next to the char lay 2 kohlrabi leaves and garnish
Loosely wrap 8 kohlrabi sticks per leave with a with the seared kohlrabi. Lightly marinate the
kohlrabi loop. Then insert 3 hijiki seaweed pieces kohlrabi leaves with shiso vinaigrette. Lastly, pour
and daikon cress in order to fill out the roll. on the buttermilk dashi and arrange the horse­
radish pearls on the plate.

26
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27
MENU
I

DISH 111

GREEN ASPARAGUS
>MONSIEUR
ROBERT BLANC<
RED SUMAC
YUZU
MI SO

Green asparagus
Miso caramel
Miso hollandaise
Red sumac
Yuzu confit
Yuzu zest

28

29
DISH Ill

GREEN ASPARAGUS >MONSIEUR ROBERT BLANC<


RED SUMAC I YUZU I MISO

Green asparagus

24 green asparagus spears supplied by >Monsieur 100 ml yuzu juice


Robert Blanc< (26 mm diameter) 100ml water
Salt, sugar 20 g sugar
Lemon juice 2.5 g agar-agar
Butter 2.5 g gel Ian gum
1.25 g cassava
Clean the asparagus, trim to 11.5 cm and turn the
bottoms to 2 cm. Season the water to taste with Bring all ingredients to the boil and pour onto a
salt, sugar, lemon juice and butter and boil the baking tray. Cool off and leave to harden. Beat the
asparagus for about 8 minutes. cooled mixture in a Thermomix until smooth and
then strain.

Miso caramel
Yuzu confit
50 g sugar
50 g light miso paste 35 g candied yuzu
12 g light soy sauce 15 g yuzu gel (see above)
12 ml passion fruit juice
Salt Chop the candied yuzu finely and add it to the yuzu
gel.
Make a bright caramel out of the sugar, then
add the miso paste, soy sauce and passion fruit
juice and stir until smooth. Then strain and Miso hollandaise
season to taste with a little salt.
80 g whole eggs
20 g egg yolk
60 g light miso paste
250 g liquid butter
Salt

Put whole eggs, egg yolk and miso paste into a tall
container. Beat the liquid butter with a hand-held
blender and season to taste with a little salt.
Put into a iSi-Siphon, load with 2 gas capsules and
store at 57 ° C.
MENU

Shiso vinaigrette

TO SERVE
65ml white soy sauce
100ml mirin
100ml rice vinegar Marinate the cooked asparagus with the shiso
5 cloves of garlic vinaigrette over a low heat and season to taste with
10g bonito flakes salt and sugar. Arrange 3asparagus spears in parallel
15 large green shiso leaves lines on a warmed plate, spray a thin strip of miso
Xanthan gum caramel and place 2 pieces of yuzu peel on each
225ml grape seed oil one. Sprinkle an even amount of red sumac around
the asparagus. Place 2 servings of yuzu confit on
Bring all the ingredients except for the xanthan gum the plate. Garnish with violet blossoms and a dab of
and the grape seed oil to the boil, cover and let miso hollandaise.
stand for 30 minutes. Strain off the liquid, bind with
a little xanthan gum and then emulsify the grape­
seed oil with a whisk.

Garnish

50 pieces of fine candied yuzu peel


1 tbsp red sumac
Violet blossoms

30
I
31
DISH IV

HALIBUT
PEAS
MORELS
CHICKEN
VIN JAUNE

Chicken

Halibut

Morels

Pea puree

Pea vinaigrette

Peas

Vin Jaune sauce


BAU.STEINE DISH IV

An ideal spring combination: petits pois,


steamed morels and a liberal serving of
vin jaune sauce - a wonderfully appetising,
fresh, vegetarian entree. And, of course,
an excellent base and accompaniment for
a snow-white piece of halibut. An excel­
lent technique to use at home, the halibut is
filleted, skinned, portioned and immersed
in a mild salt solution for twenty minutes,
then dried on a greased tray at room tem­
perature and baked at 48 °C in a convec­
tion oven for 8 minutes. The result is a juicy,
translucent fish with a perfect texture, sea­
soned merely with a miso glaze seared for
just a couple of seconds. The ideal prepa­
ration, also perfect for zander, Norwegian
and Atlantic cod.
-
MENU

Pea salad Morels Vin Jaune sauce

500 g fresh peas 64 small, fresh morels 2 shallots


Salt 50g shallots, finely chopped 4 mushrooms
100g French radishes 50 g butter 250-300g morel remnants
50g chives, finely chopped 50ml vin jaune 500g butter
100g shiso vinaigrette (see page 348) 30ml white port 200ml vin jaune
Pepper, sugar 30ml madeira 1 L dashi (see page 347)
20 g butter Salt, cayenne pepper, sugar
Blanch the peas briefly in salted water and then Salt, pepper
shock in iced water. Then peel the peas. Cut the Dice the shallots and mushrooms and saute them
radishes into a fine brunoise and mix with the peas Wash the morels well in order to remove all the together with the morel remnants in a little butter.
and the chives. Marinate everything with shiso sand. Then immediately dry thoroughly before Add vin jaune and boil down . Then fill up with dashi
vinaigrette and season to taste with salt, pepper processing. Remove the stalks from the morels and reduce by two thirds. Mix in the remaining
and sugar. and then, depending on size, halve. Keep the stalks butter with a hand-held blender, and season to
and the worse-looking morels for further use. taste with a little salt, cayenne pepper and sugar.
Then saute the morels with butter in a pan, add vin
jaune, white port and madeira and reduce. Then
glaze with butter and season to taste with salt and
pepper.

34
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35
DISH IV

HALIBUT
PEAS I MORELS I CHICKEN I VIN JAUNE

Halibut Pea salad


- - - - - PAGE 35

80 g salt
1 L cold water Pea vinaigrette
8 slices of halibut fillet 65-70 g (gross weight of fish:
6 kg without the head) 100 ml fresh pea juice
20 g clarified butter 1 pinch of Xanthan gum
30 g butter 20 ml white balsamic vinegar
30g miso paste for flaming (see page 349) 50 ml grape seed oil
Salt, pepper, sugar
Dissolve the salt completely in the water, then mari­
nate the halibut fillets for 18 minutes in the brine. Let the pea juice rest for about 30 minutes (to let
Take the fish out of the water and place on a baking the starch settle). Then carefully pour into another
tray coated with clarified butter. Brush the fish with container in order to separate the juice from the
butter as well. starch. Then bind the juice with the xanthan gum
Cover the fish with foil and cook at 52 ° C for 8 and stir in the balsamic vinegar and grape seed oil.
minutes (turning the fish after 4 minutes). Then Season to taste with salt, pepper and sugar.
baste the fillets on all sides in a pan with the foamed
°
butter. The core temperature should be 41-42 C.
Then coat with paste and sear with a culinary torch. Morels
PAGE 35

Vin Jaune sauce Sepia chips


PAGE 35

15 g flour
Pea puree 15 g starch
150 ml water
50 g bacon 150 ml veal jus (see page 344)
50 g shallots 100 ml olive oil
200 ml cream 20 g butter, melted
1 sprig of thyme 2 tbsp sepia ink
2 bay leaves Salt
1 kg frozen peas Oil for frying
Salt, pepper, sugar
Mix the flour and starch in a hemispherical bowl.
Dice the bacon and shallots coarsely and then Add water and veal jus and stir in well. Then add the
saute in a pot. Add cream, thyme and bay leaves, olive oil and butter, dye with the sepia ink and
and reduce by half. Blanch the peas in salted season with salt.
water and then shock in iced water. Then add the Heat a Teflon-coated pan to 150 °C and pour in a
reduced cream and beat to a smooth puree in the little oil. Then gradually fry the mixture until crispy
Thermomix. If necessary, add additional cream. and then remove carefully from pan. Store the
Season to taste with salt, pepper as well as sugar crunchy chips on kitchen paper in a dry, warm
and pass through a fine strainer. place.
MENU

Chicken skin

TO SERVE
4 pieces of chicken skin from breast
Salt, icing sugar
Use a ring to place the pea salad on a warmed
Clean off any excess fat from the chicken skin and plate. Spread the hot pea puree on the plate and
lay flat on a baking tray covered with baking paper. make an attractive arrangement with the glazed
Then cover with another sheet of baking paper and morels. Place the halibut in the centre of the plate
weight down with a second tray. Bake the skin in and decorate with chicken skin and sepia chips.
the oven at 200 'C for around 30 minutes. Then salt Then pour over the pea vinaigrette and hot, foamed
and sprinkle with icing sugar and continue to bake vin jaune sauce and garnish with affilla cress.
until the sugar is lightly caramelised. Finally break
the skins into the desired size and keep in a warm,
dry place until required.

Garnish

8 heads of affilla cress

36
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37
MENU

DISH V

CHAWANMUSHI
SNAILS
MUSHROOMS
GARLIC CHIVES

Beech mushrooms

Bread chips

Chawanmushi

Enoki mushrooms

Garlic chips

Garlic chive foam

Parsley

Snails

Spinach puree

38

39
DISH V

CHAWANMUSHI
SNAILS I MUSHROOMS I GARLIC CHIVES

Chawanmushi Snails

400 ml dashi (see page 347) 200g kitchen-ready, gutted snails, boiled
4g Jakobs dashi (finished product) 4 tbsp finely diced mushrooms ( 4mm cubes)
1.5g bonito flakes 4 tbsp herb butter
1g kaffir lime leaves 4 tbsp veal jus (see page 344)
2g peeled ginger 1 tbsp each of crushed garlic and parsley, mixed
2.2g kombu Salt, pepper
0.5g Yuzu zest (or lemon zest)
3.5 light soy sauce Saute the snails and mushrooms in the herb butter
8g oysters and glaze with veal jus. Add the garlic-parsley mix­
50g cream ture and season to taste with salt and pepper.
4 egg yolks
4 eggs
Salt, sugar Garlic chive mat

Heat the dashi to 70 •c, then add all the ingredi­ 500g garlic chives
ents except the cream and the eggs, cover and let
stand for 30 minutes. Then strain, add the cream Clean the garlic, blanch and cool in iced water.
and eggs and mix well. Season to taste with salt and Then rinse out well, put in a Pacojet container, and
sugar. Fill the small china bowls with the mixture freeze for at least 24 hours. Pacotize four times as
and place on a deep tray. required.
Cover the tray with aluminium foil and heat at 80•c
for 35-40 minutes in a steam oven. Ensure that
the chawanmushi is thickened when removed from Spinach puree
oven.
750g fresh spinach
Salt
100ml cream
2 tbsp butter
White pepper, nutmeg
2 tbsp brown butter
50g brown sugar

Clean the spinach thoroughly and remove stalks.


Blanch in salt water and shock in iced water. Rinse
out the blanched spinach in order to remove all
excess liquid. Then put in Pacojet container and
freeze for 12 hours. Then pacotize at least three
times. Freeze the spinach >mat< after each pacotiz­
ing. To serve, put the spinach mat with cream and
butter in a pot and bring to boil. Season to taste
with salt, pepper, brown sugar and nutmeg. If
necessary, strain the puree in order to remove the
remaining pieces of spinach.
MENU

Chive foam Garnish

TO SERVE
4 shallots 2 cloves of garlic
2 cloves of garlic Salt
6 mushrooms 500ml palm fat Spread the snails and mushrooms evenly on the
1 bunch of spring onions Pepper warm chawanmushi. Pour over the warm chive
2 tbsp butter ½ bunch curly parsley foam. Serve a bread chip with garnish or serve
100ml Noilly Prat 3 tbsp beech mushrooms separately.
100ml white wine 2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 L chicken stock (see page 345) 3 tbsp kitchen-ready, gutted snails
500ml cream 1 tbsp herb butter
Chive mat (see left) ½ bunch enoki mushrooms
Salt, sugar, nutmeg 3 tbsp spinach puree (see left)
Spinach puree (see left)
Peel the cloves of garlic and slice them very thin
Finely chop the shallots, garlic, mushrooms and with a truffle plane. Then blanch three times in
spring onions and saute in a little butter. Add Noilly lightly salted water. Lay on a kitchen towel and dry
Prat and white wine and boil down. Pour in the well. Fry the dried slices in 180 'C hot palm fat until
chicken broth and reduce by half, add the cream, golden, season with salt and pepper and then dry
simmer for 2-3 minutes and leave to stand on the them for a further 3-4 hours on kitchen paper
edge of the stove for 30 minutes. in a hot cupboard.
Strain and place in Thermomix with 5 tbsp of the Pluck, wash and dry the parsley and then fry in
garlic chive mat. Mix on the highest/fastest setting 190·c palm fat. Remove from fat after 1 minute,
and then strain again. Season to taste with salt, season and then also dry in the hot cupboard
sugar and nutmeg. Shortly before needed, boil up on kitchen paper. Saute the beech mushrooms in
again once, dye green with 1 tbsp of spinach puree vegetable oil and season to taste. Saute the snails
and 2 tbsp chive mat, then season to taste. Then in herb butter in a Teflon pan, season to taste
strain again. and glaze with the veal jus. Arrange all the ingre­
dients on the bread chips, together with the red
enoki mushrooms and the spinach puree. Keep
Bread chips warm until ready to serve.

200g white bread


20g clarified butter
Salt

Cut off the crusts and then freeze. Using the slicer
cut off 2 mm slices and cut out the right size
to fit the china bowls. Place the slices of bread on
a buttered Silpat mat, then cover with another
buttered Silpat mat and weigh down with a tray.
Bake in the oven at 200 ·c for around 7 minutes
until golden. Season with salt.

40
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41
MENU

DI SH VI

BEEF FROM
JAPAN
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE
WAKAME
TRUFFLE

Black truffles
Japanese sirloin steak
Jerusalem artichoke
Jerusalem artichoke puree
Onion crumble
Short ribs
Vealjus
Wakame and truffle vinaigrette
White onion puree

42

43
BAU.STEINE DISH VI

Christian Bau is proud of being the first


German chef to work with Japanese beef.
Even today he's still one of the only top chefs
cooking with this meat. Whether sourced
from Miyazaki, Kobe or Kagoshima, the in­
comparable texture and flavour of Jap­
anese beef demands an absolutely purist
approach to presentation and preparation.
Bau makes a humorous contrast to the beef
with his baroque stew accompaniment:
Wagyu short ribs. They melt in the mouth
with a spicy, sweet soy coating. The ex­
tremely rich, tender meat is finely set off
by the gentle acidic flavour of a truffle vin­
aigrette on a dashi base, which is given tex­
ture by crunchy Jerusalem artichoke cubes.
A mild Jerusalem artichoke puree helps to
bind it all together.
MENU

Short ribs Wakame and Jerusalem artichoke


truffle vinaigrette puree

2L water 60g light dashi (see page 47) 600g Jerusalem artichoke
1 garlic bulb 6g truffle juice (from conserved truffles) 200ml milk
200g seasoning salt 8 g rice vinegar for sushi 20ml cream
1 sprig of thyme Xanthan gum Salt, pepper, sugar
1 sprig of rosemary 3 tbsp grape seed oil 2g xanthan gum
1.8 kg of boneless Wagyu short ribs 3 tbsp hazelnut oil
Salt, pepper, sugar Peel the Jerusalem artichoke and cut into small
To make the marinade, stir the water, garlic 40g Wakame seaweed pieces. Mix milk and cream in a pot and boil the
and seasoning together. Then marinate the meat 250ml green tea peeled Jerusalem artichoke until soft. Pass through
for 12 hours. Rinse off with cold water and then 40g winter truffles, chopped a strainer and then work into a smooth puree.
dry. Vacuum-seal and cook at 72 ·c in a bain-marie 20g crunchy Jerusalem artichoke dice Season with salt, pepper and sugar and, if neces­
for 28 hours. Cool down in icy water. Cut the 10g chopped, roasted hazelnuts sary, bind with xanthan gum. Put the puree into
chilled short ribs into 3 x 3cm cubes and vacu- spray bottle and store at 65•c in a bain-marie until
um-seal. In order to serve, warm up for 12 minutes Bind the dashi, truffles and rice vinegar with needed.
°
at 57 C in a bain-marie, then fry on all sides and some xanthan gum and pass through a micro-sieve.
coat with the soy glaze. Make a light emulsion from both of the oils and
season to taste with salt, pepper and sugar.
Immerse the wakame seaweed for 12 hours in the
Soy glaze green tea and then bring to the boil. Then pour
PAGE 46
away, dry off and chop finely. Then mix seaweed,
truffles, Jerusalem artichoke dice and hazelnuts
with the vinaigrette until smooth.

44
I
45
DISH VI

BEEF FROM JAPAN


JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE I WAKAME I TRUFFLE

Beef Onion crumble

560 g Japanese sirloin steak, trimmed and 1 white onion


kitchen-ready (preferably: Miyazaki) 750 ml vegetable oil
Salt, pepper 10 g almond splinters
Butter Salt, sugar, cinnamon
1 sprig of thyme
1 sprig of rosemary Peel the onions and slice into fine rings, halve and
then deep fry until golden brown in 160 ·c oil. Dry
°
Season the meat on all sides with salt and pepper them overnight at 57 C in the dehydrator. Then
and sear on a 200 ·c griddle on all sides. Then brown the almond splinters and then cut them into
in a 200 •c preheated oven and bring to a 38 •c core evenly-sized squares. Chop the dried onions and
temperature and then rest in Hold-o-mat at 65 °C. mix them with the almonds. Season to taste with
As soon as the meat has reached a core tempe- salt, sugar and a small pinch of cinnamon.
rature of 48 •c, fry off in foaming butter with thyme
and rosemary. Smoke rapidly in Green Egg on all
sides before serving. The meat should have a core Braised Jerusalem artichoke balls
temperature of 54 ·c when served.
8 Jerusalem artichoke roots
1 shallot
Short ribs 1 tbsp sunflower oil
------ PAGE 45
100 ml veal jus (see page 344)
15 g butter
Soy glaze
Form the Jerusalem artichoke roots into evenly­
1g aniseed sized balls. Cut the shallots into brunoise. Saute the
1.5 g white peppercorns shallot brunoise in oil in a small pot until colourless
2.5 g coriander seeds and add the Jerusalem artischoke. Then pour on
0.5 g cloves the veal jus and cover everything with baking paper.
1 g Sichuan pepper Then braise for 9 minutes in an oven preheated to
5 g Madras curry 200 •c. Glaze with butter to serve.
2.5 g sweet paprika powder
1.5 g ground caraway
40 ml red wine vinegar Jerusalem artichoke puree
PAGE 45
100 ml soy sauce
200 g honey
Jerusalem artichoke chips
Grind all the spices in a mortar and then gently heat
in a pot over a very low heat. Add red wine vinegar 4 Jerusalem artichoke roots
and reduce until almost all the liquid has dis­ 750 ml vegetable oil
appeared. Add the soy sauce and simmer gently for Salt
25 minutes, then add the honey and simmer for
a further 30 minutes until a gently bound glaze has Scrub the Jerusalem artichoke roots well with a
formed. Then pass through a very fine sieve and vegetable brush under running water. Then wrap in
keep warm. aluminium foil and bake at 200 ·c in the oven on
a tray for 6 hours. Then leave to cool and carefully
remove the peel. Deep fry at 160 ·c, dry off on
kitchen paper and salt.
MENU
I

Artichoke crumble

TO SERVE
The peel of 4 Jerusalem artichokes
750 ml vegetable oil
Salt, pepper, sugar Saute the short ribs which have been heated in
the bain-marie and coat with soya seasoning.
Deep fry the peel at 160 ·c. Lay out on kitchen pa­ Sprinkle some finely chopped chives and the onion
per and dry at 57 ° C in the dehydrator for 12 hours. crumble. Squeeze a dab of white onion puree on
Season to taste the dried peel with salt, pepper the glazed short ribs and place one of the pommes
and sugar. soufflees on top. Place the short ribs on a warmed
plate. Arrange the Jerusalem artichoke puree,
braised Jerusalem artichoke ball, the raw with shiso
Light dashi vinaigrette marinated Jerusalem artichoke, crum­
ble, chips and the fresh watercress in an attractive
100 ml water manner around the short rib. Place the wakame
3 g dried wakame seaweed truffle vinaigrette in a ring in the middle of the
3 g bonito flakes plate. Then fry off the beef as described, slice and
1 tbsp light soy sauce season with Malden salt and crushed pepper. Serve
1 tbsp rice vinegar the veal jus separately in a gravy boat.
1 tbsp mirin

Heat the water in a pot to 70 •c and let the wakame


seaweed stand in the hot water for 1 hour. Strain
and heat again to 70 ·c. Then let the bonito flakes
stand in the liquid for 1 hour. Then strain again and
season to taste with soy sauce, rice vinegar and
mirin.

Wakame truffle vinaigrette


PAGE 45

Garnish

8 traditional pommes soufflees


1 tbsp chives, finely chopped
4 Jerusalem artichoke roots for raw marinated
slices and balls
2 tbsp shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)
100 g white onion puree (see page 266)
8 fine watercress tips
Malden salt
crushed black pepper
150 ml veal jus (see page 344)

46
I
47
MENU

DISH VII

>SPRING
AWAKENING<
RHUBARB
BERRIES
BUTTERMILK

Bilberry sorbet

Butter milk ice cream

Butter milk jelly

Raspberries

Raspberry crumble

Raspberry drops

Raspberry gel

Raspberry seed oil maltodextrin

Rhubarb

Rhubarb cream

Rhubarb gel

Rhubarb macaroons

Rhubarb sorbet

White chocolate crumble

Yoghurt sponge

48

49
BAU.STEINE DISH VII

Bau's aspiration to present outstanding


products is not confined to the search for
exotic ingredients. His goal at the beginning
of the season is also to present the earliest
and most eagerly-awaited fruit and vege­
tables of the season - asparagus, straw­
berries and truffles. The young rhubarb has
relatively little colour at the beginning of
April and quite a lot of acid but on the oth­
er hand they are terrifically tender. What is
lacking in taste, compared to the older, less
delicate stalks, can be compensated for by
using sous-vide with a sweetened rhubarb
stock. The colour in this light, spring des­
sert comes from a raspberry puree. The
puree's acidity is softened by creamy but­
termilk.
MENU
I

"Rhubarb jelly sticks Buttermilk pearls Rhubarb stock

125g raspberry puree 50g egg yolk 150g rhubarb peel


65g rhubarb puree 50g sugar 100g rhubarb
50g sugar 1 g salt 250g sugar
5g pectin 100 g yoghurt 500g water
12.5ml lemon juice 150g buttermilk 2 limes
2 sheets of gelatine, softened and squeezed 30g Yopol ½ vanilla pod
125g rhubarb dice, poached 250g cream 1 ½ star aniseed
2 sheets of gelatine, softened and squeezed 2.5g grenadine (Monin)
Bring the fruit puree to the boil. Mix the sugar
and pectin and add to the puree. Cook for 1 minute Heat all the ingredients except the gelatine to Bring all ingredients to the boil, cover and leave to
and then add lemon juice and gelatine. Then add 60 ·c. Dissolve the gelatine into the mixture and stand for 15 minutes. Then strain the mixture.
the rhubarb dice, pour the mixture into the then leave to cool. Using a spray bottle, trickle
prepared rhubarb silicon moulds and freeze. Once the buttermilk mixture into liquid nitrogen in order
frozen, release the shapes from the mould and to make pearls. Then with a skimmer carefully re-
store in freezer until required. move the pearls, place them on a plate and freeze
until needed.

50
I
51
DISH VII

>SPRING AWAKENING<
RHUBARB I BERRIES I BUTTERMILK

Rhubarb sorbet Raspberry drops Rhubarb jelly sticks


PAGE 51

250 g rhubarb puree 500 g frozen raspberries


250 g raspberry puree 50 g simple syrup (1:1) Rhubarb stock
PAGE 51
75 g sugar ½ vanilla pod
25 g glucose powder 1 g xanthan gum
250 g rhubarb juice Rhubarb gel
Put the raspberries with the syrup
Heat all ingredients to 80 ·c. and the vanilla in a deep tin, cover 500g rhubarb stock (see page 51)
Freeze in a Pacojet container and with tin foil and then place in the oven 6 g agar-agar
pacotize as required. at 120 •c for 1 hour. Then hang the 6 g gel Ian gum
raspberries for 12 hours in a cloth
strainer. Bind the resulting stock with Bring all ingredients to the boil and
Bilberry sorbet xanthan gum, pour into hemispherical leave to cool in a container. Then mix
silicon moulds and freeze. When the the gel in Thermomix until smooth
45 g dry glucose mixture is firm, release the drops. and strain.
5 g Super Neutrose
125 g sugar
500 g red berry puree Rhubarb drops Stewed rhubarb
300ml water
15 g inverted sugar 250 g rhubarb puree 200 g rhubarb
25 g raspberry puree Rhubarb stock (see page 51)
Mix the glucose, Super Neutrose and 80 g sugar 20 g rhubarb gel (see above)
sugar together. Heat the berry puree, 135 g butter
water and inverted sugar to 45 ·c and 120 g egg yolk Peel the rhubarb and cut into 3 x 3 cm
then add the sugar mixture little by 60 g egg white cubes. Poach in rhubarb stock until
little. Heat to 85 ·c and refrigerate for 4 sheets of gelatine, softened and al dente. Then strain in colander and
3 hours. Mix thoroughly after 3 hours squeezed dress with a little rhubarb gel.
and freeze in Pacojet containers.
Pacotize once, pour into prepared Heat all the ingredients except the
raspberry silicon moulds and then gelatine to 80 ·c. Then add the Raspberry gel
freeze again. Once frozen, release the gelatine, pour the mixture into the
shapes from the mould and store in cube-shaped silicon moulds and 500 g raspberry puree
freezer until required. freeze. 5 g agar-agar
5 g gel Ian gum

Lemon jelly coating Bring all ingredients to the boil and


(for raspberry and rhubarb drops) leave to cool in a container. Then mix
the gel in Thermomix until smooth
200g water and strain.
110 ml lime juice
1 g Citras
28 g sugar Buttermilk pearls
PAGE 51
25 g vegetable gelatine

Bring all ingredients to the boil. Stick


toothpicks into the drops and dip
in jelly as soon as it has formed a skin.
Remove the toothpicks, cover and
refrigerate the coated drops.
MENU

Raspberry segments Raspberry crumble Rhubarb macaroons

TO SERVE
100g raspberries 100g flour 100 g rhubarb juice
1 L nitrogen 150g butter 10 ml white balsamic vinegar
70g sugar 20g egg white Lay out 2 drops of each variety op­
Put raspberries in container with 100g Sosa raspberry crispies, finely 20g sugar posite each other and decorate with
nitrogen and then bash with scoop mixed silver leaf and macaroon. Sprinkle the
until broken into segments. Store Beat all the ingredients in a mixer. rhubarb jelly stalks with raspberry
segments in freezer. Knead all the ingredients into a Use an icing bag with a plain nozzle crumble and then lay them opposite
dough. Then make rolls out of the to create small macaroons on a Silpat each other. Make two small piles out
dough and freeze. Take out of freezer mat and dry at 80·c for 12 hours in of raspberry Malto and make a hole
Butter milk jelly when required and make crumble the dehydrator. in each one with a finger. Then stamp
with a grater. Lay on an baking tray the stewed rhubarb with a small
150g milk and bake at 120 •c for about 15 ring and lay on top. Cut out the same
40g sugar minutes. Rhubarb chips size of buttermilk jelly with a ring
3g agar-agar and lay on the stewed rhubarb. Then
50 g buttermilk 2 rhubarb stalks sprinkle the jelly with chocolate and
1 sheet of gelatine, softened and Yoghurt sponge 20g icing sugar raspberry sprinkles. Close up the gaps
squeezed with macaroons and jelly dabs and
10g flour Cut the rhubarb sticks to about 10cm decorate with cress and blossoms.
Bring the milk with sugar and agar­ 30g sugar long. Then with the peel, cut them Set the bilberry sorbet in the Malto
agar to the boil. Then stir in the 150g egg white lengthwise into thin pieces and lay on and put a scoop of rhubarb sorbet on
buttermilk and the gelatine. Pour onto 32g almond semolina the Silpat mat. Dust them with icing top. Then put the rhubarb chips on
a greased tray and then leave to cool. 30g Yopol sugar and dry in the oven at 70·c for the ice cream. Lastly, spread the
Cut out 3cm diameter pieces as about 12 hours. buttermilk pearls and raspberry seg­
required. Mix all ingredients in Thermomix ments and the yoghurt sponge around
until smooth. Put the mixture into the edges.
an iSi-Siphon and load with 2 gas Garnish
White chocolate crumble capsules then chill for 4 hours. Then
put 3cm layer into a microwaveable 2 sheets of silver leaf
100g sugar container and then microwave at 2 packs of atsina cress
100g water 800 watts for 45 seconds. Remove 1 pack of blossoms
100 g white couverture chocolate and after 2 minutes break into small
pieces. Put pieces onto a baking tray
Boil sugar and water to 130•c. Take and bake at 80·c for about 2 hours.
off heat and add couverture. Stir until
crumbs start to form.
Raspberry Malto

100g white couverture chocolate


7.5g raspberry seed oil
30g Malto
1 pinch of salt
50 g Eclat d'Or (crepe wafers)

Dissolve the couverture and mix with


raspberry seed oil and Malto until
bound. Finally add salt and the Eclat
d'Or.

52
I
53
MENU

DI SH VI 11

>SOUVENIR
FROM ASIA<
PAN DAN
NASHI PEARS
GINGER

Ginger ice cream

Ginger macaroons

Nashi pears

Pandan cream

Pear gel

Pear-flavoured edible paper

54

55

-- -- _..,.,...,.. nl"\l"'\T hu D C.MU KOf.QED


DISH VII I

>SOUVENIR FROM ASI A<


PANDAN I NASHI PEAR I GINGER

Pandan mixture

360ml cream 250g white couverture chocolate


300ml milk 200g cocoa butter
The pulp of 2 vanilla beans 4g white colouring (titanium dioxide)
7 pandan leaves, finely-chopped
230g white couverture chocolate, liquid Melt the couverture together with the cocoa butter
120g egg yolk with a bain-marie. Mix in the titanium oxide and
at 40 ·c load into an airbrush spray gun. Take the
Bring the cream and milk to the boil together with frozen gateaux carefully out of the moulds and
the vanilla pulp and add the pandan leaves. Place in spray them evenly with the spray. Then freeze the
refrigerator and let stand for 24 hours. Then heat sprayed gateaux until ready to serve.
up the mixture gently and strain. Heat up 330g
of the strained mixture in Thermo mix at 85 'C and
mix in the liquid couverture. Then thicken with Ginger ice cream
egg yolk. Pour the mixture into a terrine mould
and wrap in clingfilm. Then cook in a bain-marie at 250ml milk
130·c for 2 hours. Remove, allow to cool and then 250ml cream
warm in the Thermomix to 60 'C. Then pour into 30g fresh ginger, finely-chopped
the moulds of your choice, ensuring that there are 130g sugar
no air pockets. 120g egg yolk

Bring milk and cream to the boil once. Then pour


Crunchy base the mixture over the ginger and let stand for 4
hours. Then strain the mixture and mix with sugar in
100g hazelnut praline the Thermomix at 85 'C. Then thicken with egg yolk,
40g milk couverture chocolate pour into a Pacojet container and freeze. Pacotize
24g roasted almonds, chopped as required.
24g Eclat d'Or (crepe wafers)
16g Crue de Cacao (cocoa nibs)
Ginger macaroons
Melt the praline mixture together with the cou­
verture over a bain-marie. Fold in the almonds, 2g fresh Ginger
Eclat d'Or and Crue de Cacao and spread the mix­ 100g apple juice
ture about 3mm thick on a tray covered with 10ml white balsamic vinegar
baking paper. Then press the same-sized bases on 20g egg white
to the Pandan mixture in the silicon moulds leaving 20g sugar
no air pockets and freeze for 12 hours.
Grate the ginger with a microplane grater and mix
with the remaining ingredients in the mixer. Use
an icing bag with a plain nozzle to create small
macaroons on a Silpat mat and dry at 60 ·c for 12
hours in the dehydrator.
MENU

TO SERVE
200g pear puree
2.5 g agar-agar
2.5 g gel Ian gum Place a gateau in the centre of the plate.
1 tsp lime juice Spray different-sized dabs on the plate. Place the
pear slices on some of the dabs of gel. Place a
Bring the ingredients to the boil while stirring scoop of ginger ice cream on the plate and then
and then leave to cool in a container. Then decorate with ginger macaroons and pear cookies.
use the Thermomix to beat the mixture into an Lastly garnish with atsina cress and gold leaf.
even smooth gel. Then pass the mixture through
a fine sieve.

Pear cookies

50g pear puree


10g glucose
30g butter, liquid
20g icing sugar
30g flour
30 g egg white

Put all the ingredients into the Thermomix to make


a fine mixture and then spread a thin layer on a
Silpat mat. Bake in the oven at 160 ·c for around 15
minutes until golden-yellow. Store in a dry place
until needed.

Garnish

2 Nashi pears
1 pack of atsina cress
Gold leaf

Cut the Nashi pears into 2 mm thick slices and then


cut out circles.

56
I
57
BADEN

The motifs on Christian Bau's T-shirts come from a well­


known Black Forest clothing company. Bau is a Badener
through and through. He speaks gently and melodically,
and the closer to home the stronger the accent. Here in
South-west Germany, in the >promised< land between
the mild Rhine valley and the hills of the dark Black
Forest lie not only his personal roots but also the roots
of his own conception of cooking.
There are three places which stand out particularly:
Gutbert Fallert's >Talmiihle< in Sasbachwalden, nestled
in the picturesque wine country between Baden-Baden
and Offenburg, where Christian Bau, as he still accepts,
learnt more than anywhere else: the art of great, clas­
sic sauces, the repertoire of French haute cuisine from
the times of Careme through to those of Escoffier. Then,
of course, the legendary >Schwarzwaldstube> in the

58

59
>Traube Tonbach< hotel in Baiersbronn, where his eyes
were opened by Harald Wohlfahrt, who introduced him
to a hitherto unexpected degree of perfection. And lastly,
the >Schwarze Adler< in Oberbergen, that jewel of tradi­
tion - perhaps the most enduring bastion of sophisticat­
ed culinary art on German soil.
Bright yellow, it lies on the winding lane from Botzin­
gen to Burkheim, defiant and inviting at the same time,
the image of a German inn. Immediate to the left of the
porch stands the Stammtisch, scrubbed white, made out
of ancient Kaiserstuhl sycamore. Here Bau is a guest.
This is where the man that seeks his inspiration at Toru
Okuda in the Ginza or from Cesar Ramirez in Brook­
lyn, always returns. At least once a year. W hy? Because
here things are preserved that have largely been lost:
the carving of large joints of meat, servers in black and
white, the astonishing depth of the wine list, the ex­
traordinary hospitality of Bettina and Fritz Keller. But
above all the heavenly dishes: Filet Rossini, Duck from
the Dombe, Poulard en vessie with truffles. By the time
they are on the A5, Bau's daughters already know what
they want: Frogs' legs in garlic and parsley butter, tur­
bot on beurre blanc, poulet, and so it goes on. Bau says,
»Then I know that I have done everything right!«
60
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61
BROWN CRAB
XO CREME I SAKE GRANITA I JASMINE RICE

AIJ [JAPANESE JACK MACKEREL]


APPLE I CAVIAR I CREME CRU

TORO TUNA
HEARTS OF PALM I TRUFFLES I DASHI

DOVER SOLE
SPICY GAZPACHO I FRESHWATER PEARLS I EXOTIC MOUSSELINE

KUROBUTA PORK [BACK AND TROTTER ]


YAMS I EDAMAME I JAPANESE SANSHO PEPPER

PIGEON
BLACK PUDDING I JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE I RED AROMAS

BLACK FOREST CHERRIES


HOMMAGE TO BACK HOME

>RING OF DESIRE<
P ISTACHIO I RASPBERRY I LIME
MENU
II

DISH I

BROWN CRAB
XO CREME
SAKE GRANITA
JASMINE RICE

Bonito vinaigrette

Brown crab

Dashijelly

Dashi melon

Jasmine rice crisps

Nori seaweed crisps

Sake granita

XO creme

64

65
BAU.STEINE DISH I

Brown crab - like hamachi - is an emblem­


atic product for Christian Bau. Right from
the beginning, i.e. since 1998, it's been
on his menu in widely differing versions.
The current preparation is typical for Mr
Bau's cuisine - a pan-Asian interpretation
of an ultra-classical French product. In­
stead of mayonnaise, which accompanies
the sometimes straw-like crabmeat on
every plateau de fruits de mer, here we
have an elaborate, slightly matured XO
creme with a Chinese twist made of
dried scallops, shrimp, shaoxing rice wine,
chillies and air-dried ham. This creates an
aroma explosion that goes outstandingly
well with all kinds of shellfish or scal­
lops. A fully ripened dashi melon adds
harmonic balance with its fruity sweet­
ness.
MENU
II

Brown crab Dashi melon XO creme

240 g brown crabmeat, ready-prepared (cooked ½ watermelon 50 g egg whites


and shelled) 50 ml bonito vinaigrette (see below) 30 g XO mixture (see page 68)
3 tbsp lemon vinaigrette (see page 348) 80 ml chicken stock (see page 345)
2 tbsp chives, finely chopped Cut out a total of 16 pearls of 1 cm diameter and 2 tbsp shaoxing wine
2 tbsp blanched vegetable brunoise (carrots, 24 pearls of 0.5 cm diameter from the watermelon. 2 tbsp fish sauce
celeriac, zucchini) Vacuum-seal the watermelon pearls with the 2 tbsp mushroom soy sauce
Salt, pepper vinaigrette to 100 % and refrigerate for at least 3 10 g xanthan gum
hours. 20 ml XO oil (settles out on top of the XO mixture)
Mix the brown crab with the remaining ingredients, 280 tbsp grape seed oil
season to taste with salt and pepper and weigh
out 8 portions at 30 g each. Keep covered and cool Bonito vinaigrette Mix the egg-whites, the XO mixture, the chicken
until you are ready to serve. stock, the wine, the fish sauce, the mushroom soy
1 pinch of xanthan gum sauce and beat them with the hand-held blender
150 ml sambai bonito vinegar to form a mayonnaise. Add the oil slowly in this
100 ml grape seed oil process. Let the mayonnaise stand for 1 hour, then
strain it and refrigerate it until you are ready to
Mix the xanthan gum with the bonito vinegar and serve.
leave to soak. Then strain and add the grapeseed
oil to make a finely beaded mixture.

66
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67
DISH I

BROWN CRAB
XO CREME I SAKE GRANITA I JASMINE RICE

Brown crab XO sauce


- -
----PAGE 67

65 g dried scallops
Dashi jelly 65 g dried shrimp
40g be I Iota ham
200ml shellfish essence (see page 346) 325 ml chicken stock (see page 345)
20g kombu 300ml sunflower oil
1 tbsp bonito flakes 2 ½ chillies, finely diced
3 gelatine leaves, softened and squeezed 2 ½ finely-diced shallots
Salt, cayenne pepper ¾ garlic clove, finely diced
2 ½ tbsp shaoxing wine
Mix the essence with the kombu seaweed and 2 ½ tbsp fish sauce
bonito flakes and heat to 80•c. Leave it to stand 2 ½ tbsp mushroom soy sauce
covered for 1 hour and then strain. Dissolve the 2 ½ tbsp brown sugar
gelatine in the mixture. Season it with salt and 2 ½ tbsp chilli flakes
cayenne pepper and then refrigerate it. Once the
mixture has gelled, press it through a cooled In 2 different pots, bring about 300ml water to
press and refrigerate it in an icing bag until you the boil. Add the scallops to one pot and the dried
are ready to serve. shrimp to the other one. Then take the pots off
the heat and allow the contents to stand. Mean­
while, steam the ham in an ovenproof dish covered
Bonitovin aig er tt e with aluminium foil for 15 minutes at 100 'C. Steam
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ =- _ _ _ _ _ PAGE 67
it in the combi-steamer. Then leave the ham to
drain from a sieve and mix the liquid collected with
Dashi melon the chicken stock.
- - ---- PAGE 67
Remove the shrimp after 1 hour in hot water, allow
to drain and chop them finely. Likewise, after 1
Nori seaweed crisps more hour, remove the scallops from the water,
allowing them to drain. Chop them finely.
100g sugar Heat the oil to 107 ·c and then add the chopped
20g lsomalt scallops to the hot oil. After 5 minutes, add the
5 0g glucose syrup chopped shrimps and cook for another 15 minutes.
40ml water Add the Bellota ham and 3 minutes later add the
2 sheets of nori seaweed cubed chilli and cook the entire dish for an addi­
tional 3 minutes. Then strain and cook the shallots
°
Heat sugar, syrup and water together to 165 'C and garlic in the same oil, also at 107 C, for 5
and allow it to cool on a silicon mat. Then grind minutes until golden.
it to a fine powder with the nori seaweed in the Mix in the ingredients that were first fried with the
Thermomix. Using a round template (3cm diameter), ham, the chicken stock, the wine, the fish sauce
sieve the powder onto a baking mat and melt in the and the mushroom soy sauce and stir in the sugar.
oven at 220 ·c. Allow the chips to cool and store Then reduce almost completely. Add the chilli
packed airtight with the desiccant until needed. flakes and put in a jar with the oil, the shallots and
the garlic and allow to stand for 2 days.

XO creme
----- -PAGE 67
MENU
II

Sake granita

TO SERVE
125ml sake
10ml yuzu juice
10g simple syrup Using a ring (6 cm in diameter), form the crabmeat
1 pinch of xanthan gum on the plate and spread the dashi jelly over it
about 2mm thick. Remove the ring and garnish the
Bring the sake, yuzu juice and simple syrup to the brown crab with XO creme and the dashi melon.
boil, thicken lightly with xanthan gum and pour into Then add the vinaigrette to the plate, lay the rice
silicon ball forms (1 cm. in diameter). Freeze for chips and nori seaweed on top and arrange the
at least 12 hours and, when needed, release from sake granita in a visually attractive manner. Finally
the silicon forms while still frozen. garnish with cress.

Rice chips

125g cooked jasmine rice


125ml water
1g Maldon salt
10g rice flour
2g wakame seaweed powder
500 ml Vegetable oil for deep-frying
Salt

Process all ingredients to a homogeneous mixture


in the Thermomix at 90·c for 20 minutes and
then spread out to a thickness of 2mm on a silicon
mat. Dry at 50•c for 8 hours in the dehydrator.
Break the chips into the desired size and fry them
in vegetable oil at 230 ·c until golden. Season the
chips with salt while still hot and keep them warm
in a Hold-o-Mat until needed.

Garnish

1 pack of affilla cress


1 pack red shiso cress

68
I
69
MENU
II

DI SH II

AIJ
[JAPANESE JACK
MACKEREL]
APPLE
CAVIAR
CREME CRU

Apple Gel

Oyster cream

Buttermilk dashi

Creme cru ice beads

Dill oil

Gillardeau oysters

Granny Smith apple

Jack mackerel

Imperial Osietra caviar

Miso oil

Passe-pierre tips

Salty finger cress

Wakame seaweed crisps

70

71
DISH II

AIJ [JAPANESE JACK MACKEREL]


APPLEI CAVIAR I CREME CRU

Mackerel Parsley powder

5 Japanese Jack Mackerel (Aij), 500 g each 500 g parsley


50 g wakame seaweed powder
Wash and fillet the mackerel. Remove the fillets
from the skin, cut out the spine and extract the Wash the parsley, remove the stems and dry it for
fat from the fish. 12 hours at 50 ·c in the dehydrator. Then mix the
dried parsley with the wakame seaweed powder to
a fine powder and strain it through a sieve.
For the marinade and smoking
500g salt Sprinkle the marinated, cold-smoked mackerel
250 g brown sugar fillets on one side with the powder and form them
2 tbsp beech chips into a roll (6cm in diameter). When doing this, take
care that the sprinkled side faces inwards. Then
Mix salt and sugar dry and dry marinate the mack­ roll it up in clingfilm and fix it with aluminium foil.
erel fillets for10 minutes in the marinade. Then Store the prepared rolls for12 hours to allow them
remove it from the marinade and dry it off with to bind. Before serving, briefly freeze the rolls and
kitchen paper. Cold smoke the marinated fillets for cut them into1.5 cm thick slices.
11/2 minutes in the smoking oven with beech wood
smoke.
Buttermilk dashi

500 g buttermilk

8 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) For the whey, freeze the buttermilk and let it thaw
out on a cloth strainer.
Open the oysters and separate them from the Collect the clear strained butter milk whey. Flavour
muscle. Collect the oyster water and strain. Poach the buttermilk as follows.
the oysters at 42 ·c for1 minute in the oyster water.
Then remove the beard and slice each oysters
into 3 medallions. Flavouring of buttermilk whey
200 ml clear buttermilk whey (see above)
8g kombu
6g edamame, dried
1 g Shiitake mushrooms, dried
1.5 g ginger, dried
1 g garlic, dried
0.2 g xanthan gum
20 ml dill oil (see page 348)
10 ml miso oil (see page 348)

Heat the whey together with the flavouring to 80 ·c


and let stand for1 hour. Then strain it and thicken
with xanthan gum. Mix the two oils together in a
fine-beaded mixture before serving.
MENU
II

Kimizu Creme cru ice beads

TO SERVE
120 g egg yolks 2 sheets of gelatine, softened and squeezed
50 ml mirin 50 ml lime juice
50 ml rice vinegar 375 ml sour cream (10 % fat) Place a ring from the mackerel roll in the centre
Salt 125 ml cream of the plate and lay an oyster medallion on top.
40 g icing sugar Arrange the remaining two medallions behind the
°
Mix all the ingredients in a Thermomix at 85 C to 10 ml rice vinegar mackerel roll. Dot the kimizu and oyster cream
a fine cream. Season to taste with salt and strain 2 splashes of green tabasco between the oyster medallions and garnish with
through a fine strainer. 5 g salt salty fingers, passe-pierre, apple sticks and apple
slices. Then garnish with the caviar, press in the
Dissolve the gelatine in lime juice. Mix the remain­ wakame chip and drop the creme cru pearls loosely
Oyster cream ing ingredients and work in the lime juice. Using a on top. Finally pour the buttermilk dashi all around.
spray bottle, trickle the mixture into liquid nitrogen
1 shallot cut into brunoise in order to make the pearls. Then with a skimmer
2 tbsp vegetable oil carefully remove the pearls, place them on a plate
30 ml white wine and freeze until needed.
75 ml dashi (see page 347)
3 oysters (Gillardeau No 2)
90 g creme fraiche Garnish
10g chives
10 g coriander 1 Granny Smith apple
1 stalk of parsley 1 tsp lemon vinaigrette (see page 348)
Agar-agar 24 passe-pierre tips
Gellan gum 16 salty fingers
16 apple blossoms
Saute the shallot until translucent, then add white 80 g imperial osietra caviar
wine and dashi and reduce. Add the oysters and the
oyster water and bring to the boil once. Then im- Cut 1 mm thick and 1.5 cm wide sticks from the
mediately mix them with the creme fraiche, chives, apple and also cut 8 slices each (diameter 1 cm and
coriander and parsley in the Thermomix. Then pass 1.5 cm). Marinate in lemon vinaigrette.
through a splatter sieve. Add 1 g agar-agar and 1 g
gel Ian gum per 100 ml mixture. Bring the liquid to
the boil again with the agar-agar and gellan gum
and then let it form a gel. When cold, beat mixture
into a smooth gel in the Thermomix.

Wakame chips

200 g boiled floury potatoes


200 ml water for boiling potatoes
20 g parsley, stalks removed
20 g chervil, stalks removed
1 g wakame seaweed powder

Mix all the ingredients in the Thermomix at 70 ·c


until they are smooth. Pass through a conical
strainer. Spread the mixture thinly on a silicon mat
and dry in the dehydrator for 12 hours. Then break
into pieces of the required size.

72
I
73
DISH Ill

TORO TUNA
HEART OF PALM
TRUFFLE
DASH I

Heart of palm
Heart of palm puree
Truffle
Truffle dashi
Tuna belly sashimi
Tuna belly tartare
Tuna belly, grilled
DISH 111

TORO TUNA
HEARTS OF PALM I TRUFFLE I DASHI

Toro tuna For the belly piece

1 blue/in toro tuna at 800-1000 g (at least 8 tuna fish slices of 8 x 4 x 1.5 cm
20 x 10 x Bern in size) Salt, pepper

Cut the tuna fish belly as follows: Season the belly slices with salt and pepper and fry
8 slices at 8 x 4 x 1.5 cm (for the belly piece) briefly on both sides in a hot pan. Then keep the
16 strips of 2 mm thickness, 8 x 1.5 cm long fish warm in the Hold-o-Mat on a grate for 10 min­
(for the sashimi roll) utes at 65 ·c. Take out the tuna fish slices when
120 g rough cubes with 5 mm edge length they have reached a core temperature of 36 °C,
(for the tartare) then cut the edges cleanly and slice each belly slice
into 2 squares halves.

For the sashimi roll

16 tuna fish strips, each of which is 2 mm thick and


8 x 1.5cm long
50 ml lemon vinaigrette (see page 348)
Salt, pepper
100 g fresh heart of palm from Hawaii
40 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)

Brush the tuna fish strips with lemon vinaigrette


and season with salt and pepper.
Slice altogether 192 sticks (2 x 2 mm wide, 3 cm
long) from the heart of palm, marinate slightly in
shiso vinaigrette and then roll up evenly as a bundle
in the tuna fish strips. Keep covered and cool until
you are ready to serve.
Use the remaining heart of palm sections for mak­
ing puree (see right).
MENU
II

For the tartare Heart of palm puree

TO SERVE
120 g rough cubes with 5 mm edge length 1 shallot
2 tbsp chives, finely chopped 20 ml vegetable oil
1 tbsp minced truffle (see below) 1 kg fresh Hawaiian hearts of palm, minced Form the tartare on the plate and arrange the
Salt, pepper 400 ml unsweetened coconut milk filled sashimi rolls next to it. Attach the fried belly
Salt, pepper, sugar pieces and dot the heart of palm puree on the
Mix the tuna fish with the chives and chopped plate. Then lay the heart of palm wafers on top and
truffles and season with salt and pepper. Weigh Peel the shallots, slice them into a fine brunoise distribute the truffle slices and truffle julienne
out 15 g portions and cut out using a cutter (diam. and sweat them in oil until they are colourless. Add over the tuna fish. Garnish with bean blossoms and
2 cm). Keep covered and cool until you are ready the heart of palm, pour in the coconut milk and atsina cress and at the end pour on the lukewarm
to serve. cook the heart of palm in it until it is soft. Then truffle dashi.
strain and process the mixture into a smooth puree
in the Thermomix. Season to taste with salt, pepper
Truffle and sugar. Strain again and warm up in a spray
bottle in a bain-marie at 65 ·c.
2 truffle bulbs weighing 45 g (Perigord truffles or
Australian winter truffles)
Heart of palm wafers
Clean and peel the truffles and slice them into
1 mm thin slices. Cut out a total of 16 >donuts< 100 g fresh heart of palm from Hawaii
from the slices (diam. 2.5 cm and 1 cm). Cut fine Salt, pepper, sugar
julienne from the remaining slices. Keep the truffle 20 ml vegetable oil
donuts, the inner truffle slices and the truffle 20 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)
julienne covered and cool until required. Chop the
remaining truffle finely and use for the tartare and Cut out
truffle dashi. 2 mm thick slices from the hearts of palm on the
slicing machine and, using a cutter, cut out 8 rings
each at 1.5 cm and 2.5 cm. Use the heart of palm
Truffle dashi sections for making the puree. Season the larger
slices with salt, pepper and sugar, and lightly
150 ml dashi (see page 347) fry them in oil. Marinate the smaller slices in shiso
50 ml juice of preserved truffles vinaigrette.
1 pinch of xanthan gum
1 tbsp minced truffle (see above)
10 ml rice vinegar Garnish
10ml mirin
Salt, pepper, sugar 1 pack of atsina cress
8 bean blossoms
Warm up the dashi and truffle juice together
(do not boil) and thicken them with xanthan gum.
Add the chopped truffle and season with rice vine­
gar and mirin as well as salt, pepper and sugar.

76
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77
MENU
II

DISH IV

DOVER SOLE
SPICY GAZPACHO
FRESH WATER PEARLS
EXOTIC MOUSSELINE

Crispy spirals
Dover sole
Exotic mousseline
Fragrant foam
Herb salad
Seawater tapioca
Spicy gazpacho
Vegetable pearls

78

79
BAU.STEINE DISH IV

Christian Bau loves cooking fish on the bone


in foaming salted butter, especially dover
sole. It is lightly floured and thrives on the
delicate roasting aromas and the juiciness
which it gets so perfectly from this man­
ner of cooking. The classical sauce to go
with this firm, flavourful fish is the creamy
hollandaise, which is here exotically trans­
formed with rice vinegar, mint and fresh
coriander. The green flavours that would
be traditionally added by young spinach
leaves become more poetic with the addi­
tion of oyster tapioca. Fresh water pearls,
added to the maritime essence - spring
onion, chopped oysters, iodine poaching
liquid, all with a touch of ginger. The melt­
ing mousseline, the strength of the fish, the
spicy mineral tone of the tapioca pearls -
that is a classical summer dish!
MENU
II

Dover sole Oyster tapioca Exotic mousseline

2 whole fish: French dover sole, 900 g each 60 g tapioca pearls 5 egg yolks
Salt, pepper 3 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) 30 ml rice vinegar
flour 1 tbsp finely-chopped spring onions 20ml milk
4 tbsp vegetable oil 1 tbsp garlic oil (see page 348) 190 g butter
120 g butter 1 tbsp ginger oil (see page 348) Salt, cayenne pepper
2 tbsp enoki mushrooms, 3 cm heads 1 tbsp of chopped coriander
Remove the skin of the sole from the head to the 1 tbsp finely-chopped chives 1 tbsp chopped mint
tail. Wash the fish and cut off the outer tail-fin and Salt, pepper
the head with kitchen scissors. Clean the fish and Bring the egg white and vinegar to 65 'C in the
wash it out again. Pat it dry. Boil the tapioca pearls for 8 minutes in water until Thermomix at a low setting and continue to mix for
Expose the backbone of the fish using a straight cut soft, then strain and shock. Open the oyster and 5 minutes at this temperature. Then add milk and
both on the back side and belly side. Then, using collect the oyster water. Then remove the beard slowly add the butter in small pieces. Season with
scissors, cut the fish in half along the backbone and and muscle from oysters and dice them finely. salt and cayenne pepper, pour into a small iSi­
remove the middle part of the spine. Saute the spring onions with garlic and ginger oil. Siphon and gas treat it with 2 capsules. Warm the
Portion the resulting fillets into 4 pieces of equal Add the tapioca, the mushrooms and the oyster siphon at 55 ·c for 30-40 minutes in a bain-marie.
size per fish. Season them with salt and pepper and and boil down to a cream. Season with chives, salt Before serving, spray the hollandaise into a warm
dust them lightly with flour. Fry the fillets in a hot and pepper. saute pan and finish with the chopped herbs.
Teflon skillet until they are golden. Now pour off
the oil, add butter and baste the fish repeatedly.
Then place the fish in a 190 'C oven for about 3
minutes. Remove the fish when it reaches a core
temperature of 41 ·c and leave it to rest in a warm
location (or in the Hold-o-Mat) for another 2-3
minutes. Separate the fish from the backbone with
a sharp knife and place them on top of each other.
Keep warm until served.

80
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81
DISH IV

DOVER SOLE
SPICY G AZPACHO I FRESHWATER PEARLS I EXOTIC MOUSSELINE

Dover sole Spicy gazpacho


------PAGE 81

15 Pimientos de Padron
Exotic mousseline ½ cucumber
- - - -----PAGE 81
about 1 g xanthan gum
20 ml Thai fish sauce
Fragrant foam 10 ml almond oil
10 ml lemon oil
100 g mushrooms 5 splashes of green tabasco (Jalapeno)
100 g shallots 10 ml lime juice
1 clove of garlic, chopped 10 ml mizkan vinegar
2 g kaffir lime leaves 1 tbsp parsley or spinach puree
30 g ginger, roughly chopped salt, pepper, simple syrup
1 stalk of finely-chopped lemongrass
2 tbsp mild curry powder Cut the pimientos de Padron in half. Remove the
1 tsp ras el-hanout seeds and wash them once in hot water. Then juice
100 ml Noilly Prat them with the washed cucumber. Thicken the liquid
200 ml chicken stock (see page 345) with xanthan gum. Strain and process them with
200 ml unsweetened coconut milk the remaining ingredients. Season with salt, pepper
Salt, pepper, sugar and the simple syrup to a savoury sweet-sour and
½ tsp lecithin slightly hot flavour.

Roughly dice the mushrooms and shallots, sweat


them together with garlic, kaffir lime leaves, ginger Oyster tapioca
PAGE 81
and lemongrass. Dry mix the curry powder and ras
el hanout and dust the mix with it. Douse it with
Noilly Prat and reduce by half. Pour in chicken Oyster cream
stock and coconut milk and then reduce it again by
a third. Then let it simmer for 1 hour, then strain it 1 shallot cut into brunoise
through a cloth sieve and season it with salt, Vegetable oil
pepper and sugar. Before serving warm to about 30 ml white wine
75 ·c, add the lecithin and make it into a stable 75 ml dashi (see page 347)
foam with a hand-held blender. 3 oysters (Gillardeau No 2)
90 g creme fra1'che
10 g chives
10 g coriander
1 stalk of parsley
Agar-agar
Gellan gum

Saute the shallot in oil until translucent, then add


white wine and dashi and reduce. Open the oysters,
then bring to the boil with oyster water. Then
immediately mix together until creamy with the
creme fra1'che, chives, coriander and parsley in the
Thermomix. Pass through a conical strainer. Add 1 g
agar-agar and 1 g gel Ian gum per 100 ml mixture.
Bring the liquid to the boil again with the agar-agar
and gellan gum and then let it form a gel. When cold,
beat mixture into a smooth gel in the Thermomix.
MENU
II

Herb salad

TO SERVE
½ head of fine green frisee lettuce
1 tbsp parsley tips
1 tbsp chervil tips Make the oyster tapioca 1.5 cm deep on a plate
1 tsp dill tips using a ring (4cm diam.). Lay the sole on the
1 tsp fine coriander leaves tapioca and garnish it with the glazed vegetable
10 tarragon tips pearls and the wild herb salad. Dot the oyster
½ pack daikon cress cream with the crispy spirals, and decorate it with
½ pack of red shiso cress the flowers. Arrange them around the sole. Finally
4 leaves of radicchio add the fragrant foam on top of the tapioca and
50 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348) pour it on the spicy gazpacho. Serve the mousse­
line separately.
Mix the tips of the frisee lettuce with the herbs and
the cress. Cut the radicchio lettuce into fine strips
and add it to the mixture. Marinate everything in
the vinaigrette and season to taste.

Crispy spirals

60 g flour
15 g Surprises Trisol
50 g tapioca flour
10 g egg whites
6 g salt
80 ml mineral water
1 tbsp chive oil (see page 348)
500 ml palm fat

Dry mix the Surprises Trisol, tapioca flour, egg white


and salt and use the mineral water to work all of
the ingredients into a smooth batter. Then colour
with the chive oil and fry in palm oil at 180 •c.

Garnish

1 tbsp carrot pearls (diam. 3 mm)


1 tbsp yellow carrot pearls (diam. 3 mm)
1 tbsp cucumber pearls (diam. 3 mm)
2 tsp butter
Salt, sugar
8 borage blossoms
24 yellow marigolds
24 red marigolds
24 cornflowers

Blanch the vegetable pearls in salted water


until they are crunchy. Then glaze them with
some butter, salt and sugar in a small pot.

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MENU
II

DI SH V

KUROBUTA
PORK
[BACK
[& TROTTER]
YAMS
EDAMAME
JAPANESE SANSHO PEPPER

Edamame

Japanese sansho pepper

Pork back

Porkjus

Trotter croquette

Yam puree

Yams

84

85
DI SH V

KUROBUTA PORK [BACK & TROTTER]


YAMS I EDAMAME I JAPANESE SANSHO PEPPER

Pork back Trotter praline

1 piece pork back at 1.4 kg (Kurobuta pork, 1 L water


or: Berkshire pork) 50 g pickling salt
Salt, freshly ground Japanese sansho pepper 20 g salt
2 tbsp vegetable oil 2 bay leaves
50 g butter 2 cloves
1 clove of garlic, crushed 2 thyme sprigs
2 thyme sprigs 10 peppercorns
10 juniper berries
Prepare the pork back, portion into 4 slices at 2 cloves of garlic
220-230 g each and tie them together with string. 4 pig's trotters
Use the trimmings to make a jus. 150 g root vegetables, roughly chopped (shallots,
Season the meat with salt and pepper. Sear it on carrots, celeriac)
all sides in oil in a hot pan and then continue to 1 tsp Japanese mustard
cook it on a grill in the oven at 200 ·c for 3 more Salt, pepper, sugar
minutes. Then let the meat rest in the Hold-o-mat flour
at 62 ·c for 10 minutes. 2 egg whites
Before serving, foam up the butter in a pan, add 5 sheets of filo pastry, cut into fine flakes (3 x 3 mm)
the garlic and thyme and baste the meat in it until 500ml palm fat
it reaches a temperature of 54 ·c. Let the meat
stand again at 62 •c in the Hold-o-mat for 10 min­ Pickle the trotters for 24 hours in a mixture of
utes and then briefly fry off on all sides on the grill water, pickling salt, bay leaves, cloves, thyme,
plate or in a pan. Carve before serving. peppercorns, juniper and garlic. Then remove and
boil in salted water until soft along with the root
vegetables.
Take the trotters out of the water, detach the
meat from the bones and, when cooled, cut into
fine dice. Make sure that cartilage and tendons are
removed. Then warm up the diced meat again in
a pot with some stock and season with mustard,
salt, pepper and sugar. Roll the mixture in clingfilm
into rolls while it's still hot (2.5 cm diameter) and
then refrigerate. Slice the cooled rolls into 1.5 cm
thick slices and dust lightly with flour. Beat the
egg white to a fine foam, dip the pig trotter slices
in the egg white then carefully bread them in the
filo pastry flakes. Before serving, fry them at 180 ·c
in palm oil for approx. 90 seconds until golden
and crispy.
MENU
II

Yams

TO SERVE
100g root vegetables, finely chopped (carrots, 2 medium-sized yams (about 250g peeled)
celeriac, shallots) 1 L palm oil for deep-frying
3 tbsp vegetable oil 3 tbsp traditional tempura batter Lay the sliced meat in the centre of the plate and
400g trimmings from Kurobota pork (see left) 400ml water season with Japanese sansho pepper and Maldon
100ml red port 8g instant dashi powder salt. Arrange a circle of glazed yams, edamame and
50ml Noilly Prat 1 pinch of Japanese sansho pepper yam puree around the meat. Lay a pig foot praline
50ml madeira 10g ginger on the meat and garnish the plate with chickweed.
500ml veal jus (see page 344) 100g sugar Finally, pour the jus into the circle, generously
Salt, freshly ground Japanese sansho pepper 100ml mirin around the meat.
1-2 pinches of xanthan gum 200ml low-salt soy sauce
30g cold butter
Deep fry the whole peeled yams in oil at 180 'C un­
Fry the vegetables in a pot with oil without letting til golden. Then fry the tempura batter until golden.
them change colour, add the meat trimmings and Bring the water to the boil with the dashi powder
cook at medium heat until there is a slight col­ and leave to stand for 15 minutes. Then add the
ouring. Add the alcohol and reduce to a third. Then remaining ingredients except for the yams and re­
fill to the top with veal jus and leave to simmer duce to a third. Add the yams to the hot stock and
lightly for 2 hours. Then strain and reduce it to refrigerate, covered, for 24 hours. Then remove
150-170 ml. Season to taste with salt and pepper from the stock and cut into shapely balls. Strain the
and, if necessary, thicken with xanthan gum. stock and glaze the yams in it.
Add the cold butter before serving.

Garnish
Yam puree
Japanese sansho pepper and Maldon salt
1 finely-diced shallot 80 shelled edamame beans (heated in court bouil­
3 small mushrooms, finely diced lon, glazed with some butter and seasoned)
2 tbsp butter 48 chickweed tops
350g yams, peeled and finely diced
2 tbsp white port
4 tbsp Noilly Prat
100ml chicken stock (see page 345)
150ml cream
Salt, pepper, nutmeg, sugar

Saute the shallots and mushrooms in butter, then


add the yams and briefly cook together. Add the
port and Noilly Prat and reduce to a third. Fill to
the top with chicken stock and cook the vegetables
until soft with the lid on. Meanwhile boil down
the cream until thick and then blend with the vege­
tables in the Thermomix to a smooth puree. Season
with salt, pepper, nutmeg and sugar. Then strain
the puree through a sieve and keep hot in a spray
bottle in the bain-marie at 66 ·c until use.

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MENU
II

DISH VI

PIGEON
BLACK PUDDING
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE
RED AROMAS

Berries

Black pudding cream

Jerusalem artichoke crisp

Jerusalem artichoke puree

Jerusalem artichoke ragout

Jerusalem artichoke, raw, marinated

Pigeon

Pigeon jus

Red fruit gel

88

89
BAU.STEINE DISH VI

Pure gustatory harmony: Opulence and


animal power. No sharp contrast, no sur­
prise thrills. Just good flavour. And also an
ultra classical preparation: Blood and foie
gras cooked in the pigeon jus until clear -
not as heavy as a rouennaise sauce, but still
very elegant. Served with the intense black
pudding mousse; a sweetness, a mineral
flavour, a melting texture. The pigeon
breast is pink and crisp, roasted on the
bone, basted with foamed butter, a twig of
rosemary and a stalk of thyme. The result:
Super-crispy golden skin, juiciness, abun­
dance and depth of flavour from the sauce.
And what about fruit and tensioni What
else but a perfect pinot noir to go along
with iti
MENU
II

Pigeon breast Pigeon jus Black pudding


cream

_P_gi _e_o___
n 100 g mirepoix (shallots, carrots, 400 g high quality black pudding
PAGE 92
celery stalks) 75 ml unfiltered apple juice
2 finely diced mushrooms 20 g vegetarian gelatine (Sosa)
4 tbsp vegetable oil 1 pinch of xanthan gum
4 pigeons, cut into walnut-sized pieces 1 tbsp Calvados
2 bay leaves Salt
10 white peppercorns
3 cloves of garlic Mix the black pudding in the Thermomix for about
1 sprig of thyme 10 minutes and warm up to 50 'C. Then strain
75 g foie gras the homogenous mixture through a micro-sieve.
50 ml madeira Add apple juice and gelatine and bring to the boil.
60ml cognac Allow the mixture to gel in a container and process
60 ml red wine again in the Thermomix at 60"C until smooth.
120 ml red port Season with calvados and salt and, if necessary,
500 ml chicken jus (see page 345) thicken with xanthan gum. Put the mixture into
50 ml pig's blood spray bottles and store at 62 'C in a Hold-o-Mat
1 pinch of xanthan gum until needed.
Salt, pepper
50 g cold butter

Fry the vegetables in a pot with oil without letting


them change colour, add the meat trimmings and
cook at medium heat until they start to change
colour. Add the seasonings and the goose liver, and
briefly cook together. Then add the alcohol and
reduce by two thirds. Then pour in the chicken jus
and add the blood. Leave the jus on a low simmer
for 3 hours, then strain through a fine sieve, reduce
to 150-170 ml and thicken with xanthan gum.
Season with salt and pepper before serving and
add in the cold butter.

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DISH VI

PIGEON
BLACK PUDDING I JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE I RED AROMAS

Jerusalem artichoke puree

4 pigeons, weighing 680g each with heads and 600g Jerusalem artichoke
claws, well hanged (preferably from Theo Kieffer in 200ml milk
Alsace) 20 ml cream
Salt, pepper Salt, pepper, sugar
8 tbsp vegetable oil 2g xanthan gum
500g goose fat
100g butter Peel the Jerusalem artichoke and cut into small
2 thyme sprigs pieces. Mix milk and cream in a pot and boil the
1 sprig of rosemary peeled Jerusalem artichoke until soft. Pass through
a strainer and then work into a smooth puree.
Remove the legs from the pigeons and cut them in Season with salt, pepper and sugar and, if neces­
half so that the backbones can be removed while sary, thicken with xanthan gum. Put the puree
leaving both breasts attached to the bone. Remove into spray bottle and store at 65 ·c in a bain-marie
innards and blood, dry with kitchen towel and until needed.
clean. Pluck any remaining feathers and feather
shafts.
Cut the claws off the legs and pluck out any last Jerusalem arti choke chips
feathers and feather shafts. Season the legs with
salt and pepper and sear on the skin side with 300g Jerusalem artichoke
4 tbsp oil. Turn briefly and then cook as a confit in 100ml still water
the oven at 80 ·c immersed in melted goose fat 1 pinch of xanthan gum
for 6 hours. Release the hip bones from the leg 500ml palm fat
confits. Before serving, fry the legs in oil, primarily Salt
on the skin side, in a Teflon pan until crispy. Season
again . Season the pigeon breasts with salt and Wash the Jerusalem artichoke, brush clean and
pepper and sear the skin side with 4 tbsp oil, the steam at 100•c in the convection oven for 1.5
reduce the heat and add butter as well as thyme and hours. Then scrape the flesh from the skin and mix
rosemary. Baste the pigeon with the foamed butter, 150g flesh with 150g peel, water and xanthan gum
then put in the oven for 4 minutes at 200 ·c and in the Thermomix until fine and then strain.
then let it rest in the Hold-o-Mat for 35 minutes at Add half the strained residue back to the strained
62 •c. Before serving, baste the pigeon breast again mixture and stir until smooth. Then spread the
in butter until a core temperature of 52 •c has mixture 2mm thick on a silicon baking mat and dry
been reached. Finally sear the breast side with a for 2 hours at 110·c in the convection oven. Then
culinary torch and so crisp it up, then cut from the break off a piece of 5 x 5 cm, fry in 170·c hot oil
bone. Cut in half lengthwise and serve. and form into little baskets using a cork. Allow the
fat to drip off onto kitchen paper, season with salt
and keep in the Hold-o-Mat until required.
P i ge
� _o _n�ju__
_s
_� PAGE 91

Bla ck pudd ing cream


PAGE 91
MENU
II

Cassis gel

TO SERVE
200g cassis puree
50g raspberry puree
20ml Creme de Cassis Carve the pigeon breast and place on the plate.
30ml blackcurrant juice Dot the black pudding cream on the plate and lay
3g agar-agar on the Jerusalem artichokes.
3g gellan gum Place a Jerusalem artichokes basket on the plate
and fill with Jerusalem artichoke ragout so that the
Mix all ingredients together an process to a smooth basket is half-filled. Arrange the balls attractively
jelly in the Thermomix. and garnish the plate with Jerusalem artichoke
puree, cassis gel and the berries. Then decorate
with mizuna tips and lay the crispy pigeon leg on
Jerusalem artichoke garnish top. Pour the pigeon jus around it.

4 large Jerusalem artichokes


20ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)
1½ tbsp vegetable oil
Salt, pepper

Wash the Jerusalem artichoke and brush clean.


Then halve the 2 Jerusalem artichokes lengthways
and cut out sixteen 1 mm thick slices from the cut
side. Cut the ends of the Jerusalem artichokes
in 2 mm thick slices and cut into 8 slices each with
1 m and 2 m diameters using rings to help the
cutting. Make incisions into the 1 mm thick slices to
the middle, marinate in shiso vinaigrette, salt lightly
and roll into balls. Also marinate the cut out slices
in shiso vinaigrette and salt lightly.
Peel the remaining Jerusalem artichokes and cut
into brunoise with an edge length of 3 mm; shortly
before serving saute in a Teflon pan in some oil
and season with salt and pepper.

Garnish

4 juniper berries, quartered


8 blueberries, halved
16 mizuna tips

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MENU
II

DISH VI I

BLACK FOREST
CHERRIES
HOMMAGE TO THE HOMELAND

Cherry air

Cherry ragout

Cherry sorbet

Chocolate crumble

Chocolate mousse

Crunchy pearls

Kirsch foam

94

95
BAU.STEINE DISH VII

When Christian Bau speaks about his


homeland, he goes into rhapsodies. Ba­
den, the Black Forest, the gentle hills on
the edge of the Rhine valley. Bacon, trout,
Black Forest gateau ... what the madeleine
was for Proust, for Bau is this most famous
of German cakes - a timelessly perfect
combination of plain dark chocolate, high­
ly aromatic kirsch, fruity cherries with a
perfect balance of sweet and sour and cool
cream. The one problem with the Black
Forest gateau is that nobody can manage
it at the end of a large meal ... Since 1998,
Bau has been tinkering around to make
a perfect miniature. Here he shows the
three basic components which also stand
on their own; a perfect fruit sorbet, an
aromatic chocolate mousse and a kirsch
foam, which one could as easily imagine
on top of a juicy fruit pie.
MENU
II

Cherry sorbet Chocolate mousse Kirsch foam

250g cherry puree 400ml cream 500ml milk


60ml water 150g dark couverture chocolate 50g glucose
15g inverted sugar 3 egg yolks The pulp of 1 ½ vanilla pods
1.2 g Super Neutrose 50g sugar 2 00ml cream
15g sugar 1 whole egg 5 tbsp Xanthazoon
375g white couverture chocolate
Heat all ingredients to 60 •c. Put in a Pacojet Beat the cream and melt the couverture choco­ 125ml kirsch
container and freeze. Pacotize as required. late over a bain-marie. Beat the egg yolk with the
sugar in a bain-marie until it has reached a tempe­ Bring the milk to the boil with glucose, vanilla pulp,
rature of 40'C. Then take the mixture out of the cream and Xanthazoon. Then add the couverture
bain-marie and beat again until cold. Then fold the chocolate and the kirsch. Put the mixture into an
chocolate into the egg mixture and finally fold in iSi-Siphon and load with 2 gas capsules.
the cream. Store in a cool place until
needed.

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DISH VII

BLACK FOREST CHERRIES


HOMMAG E TO THE HOMELAND

Cher ry or et Ch oc olatemou s se
_ _ _ _ _ _s _ _b_ _ __ PAGE 97 ------- - PAGE 97

Cherry i
a r Cherrygel

445 ml cherry juice 500 g cherry puree


5 ml red food colouring 6 g agar-agar
1.2 g xanthan gum 6 g gel Ian gum
3g Emulzoon
3g Suero Bring all ingredients to the boil. Then refrigerate
and leave to gel. Then use the Thermomix to work
Mix all ingredients with a hand-held blender until the cooled mixture into a smooth gel and strain.
the thickener has completely dissolved. Finally
refrigerate the mixture for at least 4 hours.
If required, foam up with the hand-held blender. Cherry r g
a out

10 cherries, stones removed


10 g cherry gel (see above)

Cut the cherries into fine dice and marinate with


the cherry gel. Store in a cool place till needed.

Kirs h
c foam
----- -
- PAGE 97
MENU
II

Chocolate crumble

TO SERVE
350g flour
250g butter
100g sugar First arrange the chocolate mousse in a glass
75g cocoa powder dish. Then layer cherry ragout, chocolate crumble
and crispy pearls in equally thick layers, one after
Work together all ingredients with your hands until the other. Finally serve the kirsch foam on top and
a fine crumble has formed. Then spread out evenly place a scoop of cherry sorbet on top. Complete
on baking trays covered with baking paper and with the frothy cherry air.
bake at 180•c for 15 minutes.

Crunchy pearls

100g crunchy pearls (Valrhona)


5g silver powder

Colour the crispy pearls with the silver powder and


store cool.

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DI SH VI 11

>RING
OF DESIRE<
PISTACHIOS
RASPBERRIES
LIMES

Chocolate raspberry biscuits

Lime cress

Lime drops

Lime gel

Lime parfait ball

Pistachio cream

Pistachio sponge

Raspberry dashi

Raspberry gel

Raspberry segments

Raspberry sorbet
DISH VIII

>RING OF DESIRE<
PISTACHIO I RASPBERRY I LIME

Pistachio milk Spray for pistachio gateau Raspberry gel

115ml milk 150g white couverture chocolate 250g raspberry puree


130 ml cream 125 g cocoa butter 3g agar-agar
115g pistachios 8g white colouring (titanium dioxide) 3g gel Ian gum
Juice of ½ lime
Bring all ingredients to the boil. Melt the couverture chocolate and
Refrigerate the mixture for 24 hours. the cocoa butter. Mix in the titanium Bring the ingredients to the boil
Then strain the mixture. oxide and pour into an airbrush pistol while stirring and then leave to cool in
which has been warmed to 40 ·c a container. Then, use the Thermo­
and spray the frozen gateau evenly mix to beat the mixture into an even
Pistachio mixture with it. smooth gel. Finally, strain.

140ml pistachio milk (see above)


115g white couverture chocolate Raspberry sorbet
25g pistachio pulp
50g egg yolks 500g raspberry coulis 7 g kaffir lime leaves
125ml water 12 g lemongrass
Heat the pistachio milk in Thermomix 110g sugar 125ml Riesling
to 85·c. Then add the couverture 30g dry glucose 220ml lime juice
chocolate and the pistachio pulp and 65ml water
mix it all to a homogeneous mixture. Heat all ingredients to 85•c. 83g sugar
Then thicken with egg yolk. Put the Put into 2 Pacojet containers and 3g agar-agar
mixture in a terrine form, wrap in cling freeze. Pacotize as required. 3g gel Ian gum
film and cook in a bain-marie in the
oven at 130•c for 2 hours. Then re- Finely slice the lime leaves and lemon­
move the mixture from the bain-ma- >Fake< raspberries grass. Bring all the ingredients to
rie and leave to cool in a cooling the boil except for the agar-agar and
house. Then mix in the Thermomix at 1 Pacojet beaker of raspberry sorbet the gellan and pour over the lime
50 •c and pour into silicon ring forms (see above) leaves and lemongrass, then leave to
without creating air 1 silicon raspberry mould mat stand for 24 hours. Then strain and
bubbles. bring to the boil with agar-agar and
After pacotizing, pour the raspberry gellan. Pour into a glass dish and
sorbet into a spray bottle. Fill up the use the Thermomix to beat the mix­
Crispy gateau base previously frozen raspberry mould ture into an even smooth gel. Finally,
with it and distribute into the shapes strain again.
113g white couverture chocolate using a toothpick so that they are
11ml walnut oil completely filled without air bubbles.
11 g caramelised pistachios, chopped The freeze for at least 4 hours. Re- Chocolate raspberry biscuits
34g Eclat d'Or (crepe wafers) lease the raspberries from the mould
and keep frozen until serving. 250 g white couverture chocolate
Melt the couverture chocolate and 25g raspberry crispy (Sosa)
the walnut oil in the bain-marie.
Then fold in the pistachios and the Warm up the couverture chocolate.
Eclat d'Or. Spread the mixture around Fold in the raspberry crispy and
3mm thick on a pan covered with spread out on film to a thickness of
baking paper and freeze. Cut the fro­ 3 mm. Form with a 3cm diameter
zen base to the appropriate size. ring.
Then press into the ring-form without
letting any air enter and freeze for at
least 2 hours.
MENU
II

Pistachio sponge Spray for lime parfait Raspberry dashi

TO SERVE
85g pistachios, ground 150g white couverture chocolate 250g frozen raspberries
125 g egg whites 125 g cocoa butter 25ml simple syrup ( 1:1)
80g egg yolks 3g green food colouring 12 g raspberry syrup (Monin) Lay the sprayed ring on the pre­
82g sugar ½ vanilla pod cooled plate and warm for 8 minutes.
20g flour Melt the couverture chocolate and 1ml raspberry seed oil Decoratively arrange all the com­
12 ml olive oil cocoa butter with the food colouring. 10ml grape seed oil ponents in a circle on the pistachio
When warmed to 38-40•c, fill into an ring. Finally place on each a >fake<
Mix all ingredients at level 10 in the airbrush pistol. Spray the frozen lime Marinate the raspberries with simple raspberry and a scoop of raspberry
Thermomix for 4 minutes. Put the parfaits evenly with the pistol. syrup and raspberry syrup. Add to sorbet and - when next to the guest -
mixture into an iSi-Siphon, load with a deep pan with the vanilla pod and pour the raspberry dashi in the centre
4 gas capsules and refrigerate for cover with aluminium foil. Cook in the of the ring until the bottom of the
12 hours. Fill a plastic beaker one Lime drops oven at 120·c for 1 hour. Then leave plate is evenly covered.
quarter full with it and cook for about suspended in a cloth strainer for 12
40 seconds in the microwave at 1000 128ml lime juice hours. Finally work both oils into the
watts. Allow the sponge to cool and 125ml white wine juice collected.
shape to the desired size. 60ml water
45g sugar
25 g basil Raspberry segments
Lime parfait 6g kaffir lime leaves
6g lemongrass 1 punnet fresh raspberries
75ml lime juice Zest of ½ untreated lime
25ml orange juice Blast freeze the whole raspberries
50g sugar Bring all ingredients to the boil and in liquid nitrogen. Then wrap in a
2 gelatine leaves leave to stand for 12 hours. Then cloth and beat so that the individual
15ml almond syrup strain and pour into small silicon segments break up. Freeze until
110g egg whites ball-shaped forms. Freeze in the blast ready to serve.
60g sugar freezer.
75ml cream, whipped
Garnish
Warm up lime juice, orange juice and Coating for lime drops
sugar. Soak the gelatine in ice-cold 1 pack lemon cress
water. Stir the almond syrup into 150ml water 8 fresh raspberries, without tops
the warm liquid and refrigerate. Beat 80ml lime juice
the egg white with the sugar and fold 20g sugar
into the cooled liquid. Fold in the 20g vegetarian gelatine (Sosa)
whipped cream and fill into ball shape 1g Citras
of 3cm diameter. Freeze in the blast
freezer. Bring all ingredients to the boil. Push
a toothpick into the centre of the
lime drops and while still frozen, dip
them carefully into the coating. Allow
the drops to thaw then remove the
toothpicks.

102
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PARIS

Many so-called truths are quite straightforward: France


is the home of classic European haute cuisine. It is now
protected as part of the Unesco World Cultural Heritage.
French cuisine is still the undisputed basis of Christian
Bau's creative work. Ever since he was an apprentice,
Bau used to cross the Rhine to the Strasbourg market to
fetch Breton oysters, foie gras, wood-pigeon, comte and
buckets of creme fraiche. More importantly, a world of
tastes in his head and tongue, an understanding of har­
mony and good flavour became part and parcel of his
culinary thought process that even the most relentless
trends, the most renowned fashions couldn't shake.
Bau's cuisine, one might posit, is still fundamentally
French today. Unlike so many masters of French haute
cuisine, however, he manages to allow outside influ­
ences - particularly those from Asia - to flow into his
dishes and to blend with the French foundations of his
cuisine on an equal footing. That becomes apparent, for
example, in his sauces. Naturally Christian Bau makes
sauces only out of the carcasses and offcuts of the meats
and fish with which they are to be served - preferably
made with butter. But if a Langoustine Royale is to be
served with a beurre blanc, then it will be made on a
dashi base made from kombu, bonito flakes, rice vine­
gar and mirin, which could hardly be a more beautiful
way to set apart the crustacean. And he does this not
as an exotic gimmick, but as a thought-through, highly
elegant and personal take on the classic repertoire.
Christian Bau is convinced that this classic repertoire
can be found in its purest form at Bernard Pacaud's res­
taurant. There is no question: there are more fashionable
restaurants in Paris than the >L'ambroiserie< at the Place
des Vosges, but there are none that are better. Chris­
tian Bau says, »This is where you can experience clas­
sic cuisine better than anywhere else. Pacaud receives
the best ingredients available in all of Paris. He gets
first pick. You can't find better asparagus, more beau­
tiful truffles or finer caviar than chez Pacaud«. Wheth­
er it's Norwegian lobster with sesame, curry sauce and
spinach, sea bass with artichokes and caviar or tarte
au chocolat with vanilla ice cream - Pacaud eschews
gimmicks. Bau says, »It's perfect. Mature. Timeless.«
Afterwards, Bernard Pacaud, always diffident, joins his
German colleague in enjoying a glass of champagne.
No stress, relaxed. Like anyone would be when it is you
who sets the standards.
106
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107
RED GAMBERONI
CAVIAR I APPLE I LARDO SNOW

BLUEFIN T UNA
CUCUMBER I COMBAVA I BLACK RICE VINEGAR

LANGO USTINE
KOSHIHIKARI I DAIKON I DASHI BEURRE BLANC

JOHN DORY
CARROT I PAK CHOI I SAVOURY MISO SOUP

VEAL 3
SWEETCORN I SPINACH I TRUFFLE

VENISON
AUBERGINE I ONION I SAUERBRATEN SAUCE

VERBENA
PEACH I RASPBERRY I MERINGUE

DARK CHOCOLATE
OLIVE OIL I CALAMANSI I FLEUR DE SEL
MENU
Ill

DISH I

RED GAMBERONI
CAVIAR
APPLE
LARDO SNOW

Apple gel
Beurre blanc sauce
Chive oil
Crisps
Gamberoni tartare
Granny Smith apple
Lardo snow
Osietra imperial caviar

110

111
DISH I

RED GAMBERONI
CAVIAR I APPLE I LARDO SNOW

Gamberoni tartare Light shellfish stock

240 g meat from red carabinero shrimp (approx. 6 50g white part of leek
large animals) ½ fennel
50g diced Granny Smith (diam. 0.2cm) 2 shallots
20g chives, finely chopped 2 mushrooms
50ml lemon vinaigrette (see page 348) 25ml olive oil
Salt, pepper, sugar 1 kg different shellfish
120g Osietra imperial caviar 50ml white wine
150ml Noilly Prat
Cut up the carabinero's meat to make the tartare. 5 peppercorns
Die the apple and add it and the chives. Season 1 bay leaf
with the lime vinaigrette, salt, pepper and sugar. 1 sprig of thyme
Divide up the seasoned tartare into portions 1.5 L water
weighing 30 g each and form them into rings (4 cm
diameter). Weigh out 15g caviar per portion and Cut the vegetables into a mirepoix and saute
form into a ring on the tartare. Cover and refriger­ in olive oil until translucent. Add the shellfish, add
ate until you are ready to serve. a bit of white wine and Noilly Prat and add the
seasoning. Then top it up with warm water. Allow
the stock to simmer for about 2 hours and then
Beurre blanc pass it through a fine sieve.

200ml white wine


500 ml light shellfish stock (see right) Chive oil
60 g salted butter
60 g unsalted butter 120g chives
Salt, cayenne pepper 60g broad leaf parsley
20 g chive oil (see right) 200ml sunflower oil
3g salt
Reduce the white wine by half and top up with the
shellfish stock. Reduce all of this to 150 ml. Pass Mix all ingredients in the Thermomix at 8 0 ·c and
through a fine strainer and mix it with the butter. run it for 3 minutes. Then pour onto a cloth sieve.
Season with salt and cayenne pepper and lay aside Cool the oil that collects in the blast freezer.
until the beurre blanc is just a bit warm to the Then remove the oil, leaving the frozen water on
touch. While swivelling the container, pour in a the bottom.
ribbon of the chive oil and mix.

Lardo snow

100g Lardo

Freeze the lardo and grate it to a fine snow using


a microplane grater. Freeze until required.
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TO SERVE
300g green apple puree, sieved through a fine
cloth
3g agar-agar Place the tartare with its caviar topping in the
3g gellan gum centre of the plate. Remove the ring and place a
bit of lardo snow on top in the centre. Press in
Bring the ingredients to the boil and allow to cool 3 marigolds arounds each lardo snow and spray on
in a mould. Then use the Thermomix to beat the 3 dots of apple gel. Garnish the apple gel with the
mixture into a smooth gel. apple sticks. Finally pour the buerre blanc around
the tartare and set a green crisp on top of the lardo
snow.
Green crisps

5g flour
5g corn starch
50g veal stock (see page 344)
50ml water
8 g butter
30ml olive oil
5g green food colouring
Salt, pepper
1 L neutral oil for frying

Process all the ingredients to a smooth batter.


Cover the bottom of a well-coated Teflon pan in
fat and cook until a thin lattice crisp is produced.
Remove the fat from the crisps on kitchen paper
and store it in the warming cabinet until needed.

Garnish

1 marigold, plucked to individual segments


24 fine apple sticks (1 x 1 mm edge length, 2cm
long)

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113
ME I
II

DISH II

BLUEFIN TUNA
CUCUMBER
COMBAVA
BLACK RICE VINEGAR

Avocado cream

Bluefin tuna rolls

Bluefin tuna rolls tataki

Bluefin tuna tartare

Combava vinaigrette

Cucumber foam

Cucumber ice cream

Kimizu

Kiwi
Passion fruit core

Pickled cucumbers

Puffed rice

Wakame seaweed crisps

11

11
BAU.STEINE DISH II

What a wonderfully unpretentious, light­


weight kickoff: creamy tuna fish belly,
0-toro, carefully hand-chopped to make a
tartare, mixed with brunoise and flavoured
with lime marinade and chives. The tuna fish
is carefully encased in razor-thin radish
slices and pak choi: the creaminess of the
meat, the crunchy texture of the cucum­
ber and the subtle flavouring. Marinaded
cucumber pearls add an extra freshness.
The vinaigrette adds citrus scents and
tartness for the oily fish. As transparent as
it is, this is a good example of how harmo­
nious >fusion< cooking can be - while neg­
itoro is an iconic Japanese dish, the aroma
of the kaffir limes are clearly reminiscent
of a cuisine much more southwest, i.e. in
the direction of Thailand.
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Tuna tartare Cucumber pearls Combava­


Vinaigrette

Recipe, page 118 ½ cucumber 100ml black kombu rice vinegar


0.2g xanthan gum
Peel the cucumber and form a total of 16 pearls 50ml combava oil (see below)
using a melon scoop ( 0.5cm diameter). Put them
into a container. Cover them with the vacuum stock Thicken the rice vinegar with xanthan gum and then
and vacuum seal everything. whip in the combava oil to form a finely-beaded
emulsion.

Cucumber vacuum stock


Combava oil
100ml cucumber juice, freshly pressed
150ml gherkin juice 5g unwaxed kaffir lime zest (combava)
40 ml Chardonnay vinegar (Forum) 100 ml grape seed oil
10g mustard 2g salt
20ml dill oil (see page 348)
Salt, sugar Grate the kaffir lime with a microplane grater.
Vacuum-seal the zest with the oil and salt and
Mix all ingredients and season with salt and pepper. place in a bain-marie at 50 'C for 2 hours. Let
it stand in ice-water for 2 days. After 48 hours,
strain and store it in a cool dark place.

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117
DISH II

BLUEFIN TUNA
CUCUMBER I COMBAVA I BLACK RICE VINEGAR

Tuna _Cu
_ c_ u
_ m
_ b _ _ e_ar_ l_ s__
_ _ er_ p PAGE 117
Ki m i zu

1 kg bluefin tuna (centre cut, sashimi 120 g egg yolks


quality, including belly) Cucumber sl i ce s 50 ml mirin
Salt, pepper 50 ml rice vinegar
Sesame oil ½ cucumber Salt
50g mirin Vacuuming stock (see page 117)
100g low-salt soy sauce Mix all the ingredients in a Thermomix
°
50g cucumber brunoise (see right) Peel the cucumber and cut it using at 8 5 C to a fine cream. Season to
100g lime vinaigrette (see page 3 48) the slicing machine laterally to taste with salt and strain through a
10g chives, finely sliced 2 mm thick strips. Remove the core fine strainer.
8 thin slices of radish (edge length when doing so. Then make 16 slices
3.5 x 6 cm, 1 mm thick) (5 mm diameter) and 16 slices
8 leaves of pak choi (15 mm diameter) from the cucumber Black p uf fe d r i ce
1 tsp best olive oil strips. Put them into separate con­
Zest of ¼ unwaxed lime tainers and cover them with the vacu- 50g black rice from Piedmont
urning stock and vacuum seal them. 1 L water
Cut 2 pieces from the tuna fish of 500g frying fat
10-12cm in length and 4 x 4cm edge Salt
length. Season with salt and pep- For the cucumber bruno i se
per and fry briefly on all sides with Wash the rice under running water
sesame oil on the griddle. Mix the ½ cucumber and boil it until it is soft. Then rinse
mirin and the soy sauce, while turning Vacuuming stock (see page 117) it in cold water. Spread out a dish
the tuna morsels in the mixture. Torch cloth over a pan and spread out the
all around using a culinary torch and Peel the cucumber and cut it into rice on top of it so that the grains
then refrigerate the dish. a brunoise with an edge length of are separated. Allow to air dry for 24
Portion out the cooled tuna fish slices 2 mm. Put it into a container, cover hours. Heat the frying oil to 220·c
into 6 mm thick slices (3 slices per it with poaching stock and vacuum and allow the dried rice to puff up
portion). seal it. in the oil briefly. Allow it to drip on
Chop the remaining tuna fish to a fine kitchen paper and add salt while still
tartare and add half of the cucumber hot. Keep in warming cabinet until
brunoise. Season with lime vinai­ Co-----
- mbava oil required.
- PAGE 117
grette, salt, pepper and chives. Lay
out the radish slices next to each oth­
er. Lay a pak choi leaf on each radish Co mb_ _ _v_i_na
_ _ _ _ a_va _ i�g�re
_ _t et_ __ PAGE. 117
Pass io n frui t core
slice and press them lightly with
a palette knife. Spread the tartare 1 passion fruit
on them and roll them to form a 1 cm Avo cado cream
diameter roll. Wrap it firmly in cling Cut the passion fruit in half. Remove
film and refrigerate for 30 minutes. 3 ripe, peeled avocados with stones out the seeds and put then into a
Before serving, trim to 3.5cm long removed sieve. Lay the juice aside for further
and remove the foil. Chop the tuna 70 g yoghurt use and keep the seeds cool and
toro to a rough tartare to an edge 10 g chervil airtight until required.
length of 4 mm. Add the second half 5g tarragon
of the cucumber brunoise and season 10 g coriander
with olive oil, salt and lime zest. 10g basil
Weigh out 8 portions at 18 g each and Juice of 1 lemon
cut out using a cutter (diam. 4 cm). Salt, pepper, sugar
Cover with cling film and refrigerate
until serving. Use the Thermomix to whip all the
ingredients into a cream. Season,
strain and pour the mixture into a
spray bottle.
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Cucumber foam Wakame seaweed crisps

TO SERVE
150ml liquid from juiced cucumbers 100g mealy potatoes
75g sour cream 500ml water
50g Greek yoghurt 20g parsley leaves Salt the tuna fish slices on both sides
30g creme fraiche 1 tbsp wakame seaweed powder and place them in a fan-like fashion
25 g Proespuma Salt, pepper on the plate. Then put on the formed
Juice of½ lime tartare behind them. Put on a tartare
30ml pickled gherkin juice Cook the potatoes until they are done roll and spray the cucumber foam
1 sheet of gelatine, softened and and then strain them. Keep the water behind the roll so that it does not
squeezed you cooked them in. Finely mix 90g touch the roll or the tartare. Garnish
of the cooked potatoes with 30 ml of the plate with avocado cream, kimizu,
Stir the cucumber juice with sour the cooking water in the Thermomix. cucumber elements and kiwi pearls.
cream, yogurt, creme fraiche and Add parsley and seaweed powder Using a fine microplane grater, grate
proespuma until smooth. Mix the and continue to mix until it becomes some kaffir lime zest over the plate.
lime juice with the pickled gherkin an even mixture. Season it with salt Drizzle the combava vinaigrette on
juice and then warm up the mixture. and pepper. Strain and spread out the plate. Arrange the blossoms,
Dissolve the gelatine in the liquid. 1 mm thick on a silicon mat. Dry in the crisps, cress, dill and puffed rice and
Combine both mixtures and pour dehydrator for at least 12 hours at finally put a scoop of cucumber ice
them into an iSi-Siphon. Add the gas 50 •c. Break it into the desired sizes cream on the plate.
of 2 capsules and let it stand in iced and store it in an airtight container.
water for 5 hours. Refrigerate until
needed.
Garnish

Cucumber ice cream 24 cut out kiwi pearls


½ kaffir lime
135 g glucose powder 8 borage blossoms
18 g sugar 8 cucumber flowers
450ml liquid from juiced cucumbers 8 wakame seaweed crisps
20ml rice vinegar 1 pack red shiso cress
25g passion fruit pulp 32 dill tips
25ml simple syrup (1:1)
10ml champagne vinegar
10ml gin
1.5 sheet of gelatine, softened and
squeezed
Salt, pepper, sugar
Green food colouring

Mix the glucose and sugar together.


Mix the gherkin juice, rice vinegar,
passion fruit pulp, simple syrup,
champagne vinegar and gin and warm
the mixture to 45·c. Trickle the
glucose-sugar mixture onto it and
heat it to 86 ·c. Dissolve the gela­
tine in it. Season it with salt, pepper
and sugar and colour it with green
food colouring, if required. Put it in
the Pacojet container and freeze it.
Pacotize it before use.

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DISH Ill

LANGOUSTINE
KOSHIHIKARI
DA IKON
DASHI BEURRE BLANC

Daikon cress

Daikon radish oil

Dashi beurre blanc

Koshihikari rice

Langoustine

Pickled radish

Rice flakes

120

121
DISH 111

LANGOUSTINE
KOSHIHIKARI I DAIKON I DASHI BEURRE BLANC

Langoustines Koshihikari

8 large langoustine royal (3/ 4 calibration, prefera­ 200g Koshihikari rice


bly from Guilvinec ) 20 g finely-diced shallots
Salt, pepper 1 tbsp vegetable oil
Salt
Remove the langoustine meat from the shell and lay 30 ml white wine
it on a towel. Then carefully devein them. Add salt 750ml chicken stock (see page 345)
and pepper on both sides. Lay them on the grill for 50g butter
30 seconds, shell-side first, so that the langoust­ 20ml whipped cream
ines remain straight. Then turn them and cook on Pepper, sugar
the other side also for 45-60 seconds.
Rinse the rice under the cold tap for 30 seconds.
Saute the diced shallots in oil until translucent,
Miso coating then add the washed rice and a little salt. Then add
white wine and boil until the liquid has evaporat­
100g white miso paste ed. Meanwhile, while constantly stirring, gradually
80ml dashi Beurre blanc (see page 347) add the hot chicken broth. Keep topping up and
20ml chicken stock (see page 345) simmering until the rice is still slightly al dente. To
finish, add cold butter and cream and season with
Mix all the ingredients and bring to the boil once. salt, sugar and pepper.
Brush the langoustine with the hot coating.

Pickle-stock

300ml water
150ml rice vinegar
50ml mirin
15g salt
15g sugar
5 juniper berries
3 bay leaves
10 peppercorns

Bring all ingredients to the boil.


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Pickled daikon
TO SERVE
1 large daikon (white radish)
Pickle-stock (see left)
1-1 ½ tbsp red beetroot powder Arrange the creamy koshikari lengthwise on a pre­
warmed plate and place the langoustine on top.
Break up the radish and cut it into 1mm thick slices Lay the coins on the plate, while alternating with the
with the slicing machine. Cut out a total of 32 langoustines. Sprinkle the rice flakes on them. Place
slices (2 cm diameter) for the coins. Cut 32 strips the rolls around the langoustine and garnish with
(10 x 2cm) for the rolls. Pour half of the hot pickle­ daikon cress and bean blossoms. Add the daikon
stock over half each of the coins and strips. Colour oil and the hot dashi beurre blanc and pour them
the other half of the stock with the beetroot around the langoustine, drop-by-drop.
powder and pour this hot solution over the rest of
the radish strips and slices. Then refrigerate for
at least 24 hours. To serve, roll up the strips to
small rolls using a metal skewer (1 cm diameter) and
warm them up in the Hold-o-Mat at 62 •c for 10
minutes.

Garnish

50 g fried green rice flakes


8 bean blossoms
1 pack daikon cress
40 ml daikon oil (see page 348)
300 ml dashi Beurre blanc (see page 347)

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DI SH IV

JOHN DORY
CARROT
PAK CHOI
SAVOURY MISO SOUP

Carrot and ginger puree

Coriander oil

Edamame

John Dory

Miso oil

Miso soup

Pak choi

Razor clams

Shellfish oil

Soy sprouts

124

125
BAU.STEINE DISH IV

A perfect cooking technique for the pre­


cious John Dory: gently browned on bak­
ing paper until just coloured, then slow­
cooked at 48 degrees in grapeseed oil.
Then, a miso searing paste you could use
in so many dishes and a culinary torch
come into play, both of which give the fish
everything it needs to bring out its essen­
tial flavour, glazed juiciness, subtle toasted
notes and delicately aromatic sweetness.
Underscored by a mild carrot and ginger
puree, the quiet star on the plate is a
miso soup based on a bouillabaisse stock.
Just looking at it, you wouldn't guess how
complex it is to make, and yet it would
work wonders as a setting for innumerable
other saltwater fish and shellfish dishes.
And what makes it even more unique: it's
almost fat-free!
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John Dory Carrot ginger puree Miso soup

2 John Dory at 2-2.2 kg each 100 g shallots 1 L bouillabaisse stock (see page 128)
Salt, pepper 200 g butter 500 g egg whites
1 L grapeseed oil 750 g carrots 250 g clarifying meat (finely minced chicken meat}
30g miso paste for flaming (see page 349) 50 g peeled ginger 1 clove of garlic
350 ml freshly pressed carrot juice ½ bulb of ginger
Fillet the fish, remove the skin and sinews, and then Salt, sugar 3 stalks of lemongrass
cut each fillet into 4 pieces. Set the smaller belly ½ shallot
pieces aside and use for other purposes. Finely chop the shallots and saute them in butter 100 g light miso paste
Salt and pepper the 8 pieces and briefly brown in until they are translucent. Dice the carrots and 20 saffron threads
pan on a piece of colourless baking paper. Then put then add them. Slice the ginger and then add it. 1 pinch of xanthan gum to thicken
it in the grapeseed oil, warmed to 48 •c and slow­ Then add a bit of carrot juice and cook the carrots Soy sauce to taste
cook it until it reaches a temperature of about till soft. Then mix in Thermomix until fine. Season
42 •c. Remove the fish from the oil, spread the to taste with salt and sugar and pass the mixture Mix all ingredients well and then clarify on low heat,
miso searing paste over it and quickly torch it with through a fine sieve. stirring constantly. Then strain through a cloth and
a culinary torch. collect the stock. Sightly thicken it with xanthan
gum and refine it with salt, sugar and, if needed, a
few drops of very high quality soy sauce.

126
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127
DISH IV

JOHN DORY
CARROT I PAK CHOI I SAVOURY MISO SOUP

_Jo
_ _hn_D_ o_ry__
PAGE _C_a _rr_ o_t_ a_ n_d---'g=--i_n-=- r p_ur_e _e__ PAGE
ge_ ----'----
127
127

Miso soup Pak ch oi


PAGE 127

8 mini pak choi


Bo uillaba isse stock 25ml vegetable stock (see page 344)
2ml ginger syrup (from pickled steam ginger)
5 tomatoes 2ml lemon juice
5 shallots 10ml sake
1 leek (only the white part) 10ml mirin
½ fennel 1 g salt
1 stalk of celery 1g sugar
1 garlic bulb
2 tbsp vegetable oil Remove the large outer leaves of the pak choi and
500g butter cut off the stem. Use all the other ingredients to
2kg of lobster, broken into walnut-sized pieces make a broth. Stir-fry the pak choi in a hot skillet,
200ml Neilly Prat add a bit of stock and then cook fit or about 2 min­
100ml white wine utes. Season to taste with salt and sugar.
50g basil
10g thyme
3 L water Razor clams

Finely chop the tomatoes, shallots, leeks, fennel, 1 kg razor clams (live, XL)
celery and garlic and sweat them with some oil in 75ml olive oil
a pot. Meanwhile melt the butter in a roasting 2 parsley stalks
pan and let the lobster sweat in it until all the liquid 75 g vegetable brunoise (carrots, celeriac, cour­
has evaporated. Then add a bit of Neilly Prat and gette) blanched
white wine and add basil and thyme. When the 3 0g chives, finely chopped
stock has been reduced by a third, add it to the 100ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)
vegetables and top up with water. Let it all simmer Salt, pepper, sugar
for about 4 hours. Then skim off the fat and strain.
Keep the fat skimmed off for other uses (see Soak the razor clams in cold water for about 1
below). hour, then vacuum-seal them with olive oil and the
parsley (with stems) and cook at 72•c for 3.2 hours
in a bain-marie. Let it cool down in iced water.
She llfis h fat/oil Afterwards remove the clams from the shells and
cut them diagonally into 2mm thick slices. Mix with
Simmer the butter that rose to the top when cool­ the vegetable brunoise and chives, marinate in
ing and after the preparation of the bouillabaisse shiso vinaigrette and season with salt, pepper and
stock until only the >oil< remains. sugar. Warm up in the Hold-o-Mat to 62 •c for 10
minutes prior to serving.
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Pak choi saute

TO SERVE
200 g pak choi stems
200 soy sprouts
2 tbsp vegetable oil Arrange the razor clams on a pre-warmed plate
10 ml dark sesame oil using a cut-out ring (5 cm diameter). Lay the fish
Salt, pepper, sugar on top and spread the saute evenly on the fish.
Attractively arrange the carrot-ginger puree, the
Cut the stems and sprouts into cubes (1.5-2 mm warmed edamame and the pak choi on the plate.
length at the edges). Then, at a high setting, briefly Make pearl droplets out of the parsley and the
saute them in vegetable oil and season them with shellfish oil. Mix them with the miso soup and pour
sesame oil, salt, pepper and sugar. over. Finally, drizzle the soup on the plate with miso
oil and coriander oil. Garnish it with watercress
leaves and shiso cress.
Garnish

100 g edamame
8 small pak choi leaves
1 tbsp finely sliced strips of parsley leaves
10 ml miso oil (see page 348)
10 ml coriander oil (see page 348)
8 watercress leaves (1 cm diameter)
8 watercress leaves (2 cm diameter)
8 tips of red shiso cress

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129
DISH V

VEA L 3
SWEETCORN
SPINACH
TRUFFLE

Baby sweetcorn cobs

Spinach

Spinach cream

Sweetcorn foam

Sweetcorn Malto

Truffle

Truffle jus

Veal head croquette

Veal sweetbreads

Veal tartare
BAU.STEINE DISH V

France, Spain, Italy, China ... all great cui­


sines of the world make countless versions
of dishes that make use of organ meats.
Confident handling of these reveals cu­
linary competence - on all sides. In the
guest, in the butcher and finally in the cook
who needs to know how to treat delicate
innards with skill. Ever since his training
days, for Bau, liver, tripe and kidneys have
been an obvious part of the canon of great
cuisine. His veal sweetbreads have the ca­
pacity to convert even the most fervent
unbeliever. They are lightly floured and
fried golden: crispy on the outside crispy
and creamy on the inside. The sweetness,
which is typical of many types of these
kinds of dishes, is emphasized by velvety
sweetcorn espuma and the herbal fresh­
ness of the nutty young spinach leaves.
This is one of the few Bau dishes that does
not include a sauce.
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Veal sweetbreads Sweetcorn foam Spinach salad

400g veal sweetbreads 50g shallots 32 small spinach leaves


10g finely chopped carrots 50g mushrooms 10ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)
10g celery 50g bacon Salt, pepper
10g shallots, finely chopped 1 tbsp maize germ oil
Salt, pepper, flour 500g boiled sweetcorn Marinate the spinach leaves in the shiso vinaigrette
2 tbsp vegetable oil 250ml chicken stock (see page 345) and season them with salt and pepper.
100ml cream
Thoroughly remove the skin and sinews from the 1 sprig of thyme
sweetbreads and poach the sweetbreads at 80 ·c 2 bay leaves
in well salted water with root vegetables. When Salt, sugar
it is cooked, remove it and allow it to cool. Pluck 2 eggs
out 8 evenly sized sweetbread rosettes, each 6g mustard
weighing 25-30g, and carefully pat them dry. Sea­ 4ml lemon juice
son the rosettes with salt and pepper and lightly 120ml grape seed oil
sift a bit of flour onto them. Fry them until golden 40ml miso oil (see page 348)
in a hot pan with a bit of oil. Process the remaining Pepper
sweetbread for the croquettes (see page 135).
Slice the shallots, mushrooms and bacon into ha­
zelnut-sized cubes and saute them in oil in a deep
pot until they are translucent. Add the sweetcorn,
add chicken stock and pour in the cream. Add
thyme and bay leaves and lightly season with salt
and sugar. Cover the pot with a sheet of baking
paper and boil the contents for about 2 hours
until they are soft. Then strain. Put the sweetcorn
collected in a Pacojet container and freeze for a
minimum of 12 hours. Then pacotize at least eight
times in order to produce a fine corn puree. Weigh
out 200g of the resulting puree and then mix it
with the eggs, mustard and lemon juice in the
Thermomix until they become fine. Pour in a thin
stream of oil. Season to taste with salt, sugar and
pepper and pass through a fine strainer. Put the
mixture into an iSi-Siphon and load with 2 gas cap­
sules. Store at 65•c in a bain-marie until needed.

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133
DISH V

VE AL 3
SWEETCORN I SPINACH I TRUFFLES

Veal Preparation of calf's head

½ calf's head {eyes, skin, and nose removed) with 300g carrots
tongue 300g celery
200g white part of leek
Soak the calf's head well for 3 to 4 hours in cold 2 white onions
water. 4 bay leaves
8 cloves
Salt, freshly-ground black pepper
Picklestock
Chop the carrots, celery and leek into rough pieces
150g pickling salt and insert the bay leaves and cloves into the on­
60g salt ions. Remove calf's head from the pickling solution
30 juniper berries and place it in a large pot with vegetables. Cover it
30 peppercorns with cold water and it weigh down with a sieve
6 thyme sprigs so that the calf's head is completely covered. Bring
6 bay leaves to the boil and then gently simmer. From time to
6 cloves time, ladle off the foam which rises up. After about
6 garlic 4 hours, remove the tongue and cheeks from the
3 L water cooking water. After a further 30 minutes remove
the rest of the head and leave to cool. Prepare
Mix all the ingredients together and pickle the calf's while still warm and remove fat.
head and tongue for 12 hours. Cut the individual pieces up into walnut sized
pieces and season them with salt and pepper. Then
fill the >calf's head mixture< into a terrine mould
lined with cling film, weight it down and keep it
refrigerated overnight until the mixture is firm.

Veal sweetbreads
-------- -
PAGE 133

Veal tartare

200g veal fillet, properly sliced, ready-to-cook


1 tbsp grapeseed oil
1 tbsp green celery, finely diced
1 ½ tbsp chives, finely chopped
1 tsp minced truffle (see right)
Salt, pepper

Chop up the veal fillet into a fine tartare and mari­


nate and season it in grapeseed oil, celery, chives,
truffle, salt and pepper. Cover on a plate with
cling film. Form the tartare into 20g portions with
a cutter (3cm diameter).
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Veal croquette Sweetcorn Malto Truffle

100g veal sweetbreads (see page 133) 10g dried sweetcorn 4 Perigord truffles at 20g each
250g calf's head (see left) 1 chicken skin, dried and finely chopped 1 tbsp madeira
80 g traditional chicken stuffing 10g cornflakes 1 tbsp red port
16 slices of black truffle (see right) 5g Malto 250g butter
10g flour 7.5g goose fat Salt, pepper
1 egg Salt, pepper, icing sugar
20g panko meal Wash the truffles carefully with a little water.
7 50ml palm oil for deep frying Finely chop the dried corn, the chicken skin and Remove the peel with a small knife and slice them
Maldon salt the cornflakes. Meanwhile, melt the goose fat and finely. Use the chopped peel in the tartare.
mix the Malto with the chopped ingredients. Stir Chip off 24 small >stones< (about 1cm in size) from
Cut the veal sweetbreads and calf's head into all of this into the liquid goose fat and season with two of the truffles and glaze them in butter with
2-3 mm thick slices, and make rings out of them salt, pepper and icing sugar. Store at 63 ·c in Hold- madeira and port. Season with salt and pepper.
(2cm diameter). Then thinly coat 3 slices of the o-mat until ready to use. Slice 16 thin slices from another truffle and cut out
calf's head and 2 slices of veal sweetbread with rings using a cutter (2cm diameter). Use the truffle
fowl stuffing. Put both of them together, alternating slices for the croquette. Slice the remainder of the
with the truffle slices and coat the outside of them Spinach cream truffles and then in fine julienne.
with the fowl stuffing. Bread them by dipping in Keep the final truffle and later grate finely using a
flour, egg and breadcrumbs one after the other 1kg spinach microplane grater.
and fry at 160·c until they are golden. Season with 50g nut butter
Maldon salt. Salt, pepper, sugar, nutmeg
1 pinch of xanthan gum Garnish
50ml whipped cream
Sweetcorn foam 32 small spinach leaves
PAGE 133
Remove stalks and any yellowish parts from spinach 10ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 3 48)
and then wash it well. Blanch it in boiling, salted Salt, pepper
Baby corn water and immediately shock it with ice water. 2 tbsp reduced veal jus (see page 3 4 4)
Then squeeze out the spinach well with a kitchen 1 tbsp cold salted butter
16 Baby corn cobs ( 5 cm) towel so that as little water as possible remains.
Salt, sugar Then put in a Pacojet container and freeze for at Marinate the spinach leaves in the shiso vinaigrette
30 g butter least 6 hours. Pacotize six times while still frozen and season them with salt and pepper. Warm up
until a fine cream is formed. Strain it through a fine the veal jus and whisk in the cold butter.
Blanch the sweetcorn in well salted, slightly sweet­ sieve before use. Heat in a pot and season with
ened water with a bit of butter until it becomes beurre noisette, salt, pepper, �ugar and nutmeg.
firm. Then immediately shock with ice water. Then Thicken with xanthan gum. Fold in the whipped
lightly caramelise the cobs in a pan with butter and cream to serve.
some sugar. Lastly, cut the corn cobs into halves.
TO SERVE

Pickled baby sweetcorn On a slightly pre-warmed plate, set out the veal
sweetbread, veal tartare, veal croquette and corn
4 baby corn cobs Malto in a circle. Lay the veal sweetbread on a small
50ml Melfor vinegar portion of the spinach salad. Garnish with marinat­
50ml water ed spinach leaves, corn cobs, pickled sweetcorn
50g sugar and truffle and decorate with sweetcorn foam and
1 bay leaf freshly grated truffles. Finally finish the sweetbread
2 white peppercorns off with some veal jus.
2 juniper berries

Cut the baby sweetcorn lengthwise into 1mm thick


slices. Bring the remaining ingredients to the boil
together, pour them over the sliced sweetcorn
while still hot and allow it to stand in the refrigera­
tor for 24 hours. 134
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DISH VI

VENISON
AUBERGINE
0 NI ON
SAUERBRATEN SAUCE

Aubergine caviar

Caramelised onions

Miso aubergine

Offal sandwich

Onion puree

Pearl onion skins

Saddle of venison

Sauerbraten sauce

136

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BAU.STEINE DISH VI

There are three components that are


all-purpose weapons; they add refinement
to any kind of meat. The sandwich - both
unpretentious and opulent - you could
eat it all by itself! You can use a variety of
innards to make this, whether from lamb,
duck or guinea fowl. Here, venison liver
and heart are used with some goose liver,
chopped super-fine by hand with a large,
sharp knife. Not even a modern cooking
machine can give you better, more precise
results. Between paper-thin toast, fried
in butter, this is crispy, creamy and ad­
dictive! A bit of truffle won't do any harm
to this extravagant croque monsieur ... No
less, the caramel sweetness of the onions,
that elegantly contrasts with the complex
tartness of the deeply-flavourful, intense
sauerbraten sauce, made according to
Bau's grandmother's recipe.
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Offal sandwich Caramelised onions Sauerbraten sauce

4 slices of bread for toasting 8 white pearl onions 500 g venison trimmings
200 g venison liver, very finely chopped 10 g butter Dice 50 g each of carrots, celery, mushrooms and
100 g venison heart, very finely chopped 10 g sugar shallots into walnut-sized pieces
80 g foie gras, sliced into brunoise (2 x 2) 10 ml old balsamic vinegar 1.2 L red wine
1 ½ tbsp candied shallot (without oil) Salt 10 juniper berries
10 g chopped parsley 2 bay leaves
Salt, pepper Vacuum-seal the pearl onions in their peel with 1 sprig of rosemary
5 tbsp vegetable oil for browning the butter and cook for 3 bursts of 30 seconds 15 white peppercorns
until soft. Remove the onions from the vacuum bag. 300 ml red port
Remove crusts from bread. Freeze and then halve Allow them to cool and then cut them in half. Re­ 100 ml madeira
the slices on slicing machine to make two 4 mm move the peel and lightly caramelise the remainder 50 ml dry sherry
square slices. Mix the remaining ingredients. Season in a pan with the sugar. Add balsamic vinegar and 300 ml game jus (see page 345)
them and spread them on the 4 slices of toast. season with salt. 400 ml veal jus (see page 344)
Cover this with the remaining 4 slices and toast in 3 tbsp PX sherry-vinegar
vegetable oil on both sides till golden-brown. Then 3 g xanthan gum (per 400 ml sauce)
put in the oven for 90 seconds at 200 ·c. Then 20 g cold butter
toast again fairly quickly in a Teflon pan in the hot
grapeseed oil. Lay the sandwiches on kitchen paper Marinate the venison trimmings and mirepoix in the
to dry off the oil thoroughly. Salt and then trim. red wine for 3 days. Then strain it, separate the
meat from the vegetables and dry them carefully.
Slowly bring the red wine to the boil and skim off
the particles that rise to the surface.
Brown the drained vegetables with the juniper
berries, bay, rosemary and pepper in a pot. After
a short while, add the trimmings and brown them
lightly.
Add red wine, port, madeira and sherry and reduce
to a third, then pour in the game jus and veal jus.
After simmering lightly for 3 hours, strain the sauce
and reduce a third of it (to roughly 400 mil. While
doing so, repeatedly skim off the particles that
have risen. Season the reduced sauce with sherry
vinegar and thicken with xanthan gum. Add the cold
butter before serving.

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DISH VI

VENISON
AUBERGINE I ONION I SAUERBRATEN SAUCE

Venison Sauerbraten sauce


---- - - - -- PAGE 139

1 venison loin weighing 2-2.2 kg


Salt, pepper Offal sandwich
-- - - - - -PAGE 139
50ml vegetable oil
2 tbsp butter
1 sprig of rosemary Miso aubergine
15 juniper berries
2 bay leaves 20g light sesame seeds
2 g Maldon salt
Detach the venison loin, remove the silver skin and 1 L vegetable oil
separate into 4 slices of 230-240g each. Season 2 large aubergines
the meat with salt and pepper, brown it on all sides Salt, pepper
in a pan with hot oil and cook for 2.30 minutes 30g sugar
at 200•c in the oven. Then let the meat stand in 20ml mirin
the Hold-o-mat at 60 •c for 15-20 minutes. 20ml sake
Shortly before serving, foam up the butter in the 60g light miso paste
pan, add rosemary, juniper berries and the bay
leaves, and baste the venison loin with this until Roast the sesame seeds and grind them with the
the meat has reached a core temperature of 51 •c. salt in a mortar. Store airtight in a dry place until
Then let the venison loin stand again in the Hold­ needed.
o-mat at 60•c for 10 minutes. Before serving, put Heat the vegetable oil to 160•c. Prick all sides of
the venison in a hot pan again, ensure all sides of the aubergine with a needle, then slice off the ends
it become warm again and then carve it. and cut it in half lengthwise. Fry the aubergine
halves in hot oil until they are golden brown. Then
remove the skin and cut into cubes that are 2.5 cm
long. Then season with salt and pepper.
Caramelise the sugar in a pot and add mirin and
sake. Then boil the caramel until the sugar has
completely dissolved again. Process the caramel
and miso paste in the Thermomix to an even mix­
ture and coat the aubergine cubes with it.
Finally, caramelise the cubes under the salamander
until golden brown and sprinkle the ground sesame
seeds over them.
MEN I
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Aubergine caviar Onion puree Garnish

3 aubergines 10 white onions 8 tips of red shiso cress


Salt, pepper, sugar 2 tbsp vegetable oil 8 heads of affilla cress
2 thyme sprigs 4 white sugar cubes 8 tips of frisee lettuce
1 sprig of rosemary 2 slices of bread without crusts 8 chervil leaves
50ml olive oil 50g creme frakhe
2 shallots Salt, pepper, sugar
5 mushrooms
Olive oil Peel the onions and slice into thin rings. Heat the
30g light miso paste oil in a pot and melt the cubed sugar in it without
TO SERVE
20ml veal jus (see page 344) letting it change colour. Add the onions and let
1 tbsp vegetable brunoise (yellow and red peppers, them soak in water while stirring. Make sure that
courgette), briefly sweated they do not change colour. Cook the onions in their Place the carved venison in the middle of a pre-
A few drops of aged balsamic vinegar juice until cooked and then leave to drain well in warmed plate and lay the sandwich parallel to
a sieve. Then process the onions with the bread and it. Then set the aubergine cubes and a scoop of
Halve the aubergines lengthwise and season with creme frakhe in the Thermomix to a smooth mix- aubergine caviar on the plate. Dab the onion puree
salt, pepper and sugar. Scatter thyme and rose­ ture and season with salt, pepper and sugar. Finally on the plate, arrange the caramelised onions and
mary over this and drizzle witholive oil. Put the strain and store in a spray bottle in a bain-marie at the onion skins attractively, and garnish everything
seasoned aubergine halves back together, wrap in 65 ·c until required. with cresses, frisee and chervil. Finally the hot
aluminium foil and bake in the oven at 250•c for sauerbraten sauce over the dish.
35 minutes. Removed the cooked aubergine halves
from the aluminium foil and discard the skins using Caramelised onions
PAGE 139
a spoon. Remove seeds, rosemary and thyme too.
Roughly chop up the aubergine flesh and leave
to drip in a conical strainer. Pearl onion skins
Finely chop the shallots and mushrooms and fry
in some oil. Add the miso paste and briefly cook 10 pearl onions
together. Then pour over the veal jus and reduce by 100ml water
half. Add the chopped aubergine and reduce to a 100ml Melfor vinegar
third (so that they can be formed into quenellesl. 100g sugar
Finally add the sweated vegetable brunoise and 1 bay leaf
season with salt, pepper and sugar. 5 white peppercorns
2 juniper berries

Peel the pearl onions. Bring the remaining ingredi­


ents to the boil and pour over peeled onions. Let
them stand for 12 hours. Then cut the pearl onions
lengthwise in half and sear them with a culinary
torch. Remove the skins from the pearl onions,
without damaging the seared side. Select the most
attractive pearl onions skins.

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DISH VI I

VERBENA
PEACH
RASPBERRY
MERINGUE

Peach gel

Peach meringue

Peach sorbet

Raspberry Malto

Raspberry sorbet

Verbena cream

Verbena gel

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DISH VI I

VERBENA
PEACH I RASPBERRY I MERINGUE

Verbena milk Verbena gel Peach sorbet

360ml cream 500g bitter lemon 500 g peach puree


300ml milk 1 g Citras 50g white wine
20g fresh verbena 15g fresh verbena 20 ml peach liqueur (Monin)
20g dried verbena 15g dried verbena 10g lime juice
5ml verbena tea 50 ml water 2 sheets of gelatine, softened and
1 vanilla pod 50 ml lime juice squeezed
1 pinch of salt 6g agar-agar 20 g Prosorbet
6g gel Ian gum Red food colouring
Bring all ingredients to the boil and
let it stand in the refrigerator for 24 Bring the bitter lemon to the boil Warm up the puree to 60 ·c with the
hours. Then strain. with citras, verbena, water and lime white wine, peach liquor and lime
juice. Cover and let it stand in the juice. Add gelatine and Prosorbet and
refrigerator for 24 hours. Then strain colour lightly with the food colour­
Verbena mixture it and bring it to the boil with agar­ ing. Put the mixture in the Pacojet
agar and gellan. Let it cool in a dish container and freeze. Pacotize as
660g verbena milk (see above) and then process in the Thermomix required.
450 g white chocolate couverture to develop an even, smooth gel and
250g egg yolks then strain it.
Fake raspberries
Heat up the milk with the couverture
chocolate to 80·c in the Thermo­ Peach gel 110 g sugar
mix and emulsify with egg yolk. Fill a 30 g dry glucose
terrine form with the mixture, wrap 500 g peach puree 125ml water
it in cling film and cook it in a bain- 50g sugar 500g raspberry coulis
°
marie in the oven at 130 C for 2 hours. 5ml lemon juice
Then allow the mixture to cool and 5g lime juice Mix the sugar and glucose and heat
warm in the Thermomix to 50 •c. Then 10g peach liqueur (Monin) with the water to 84 ·c. Then cool the
fill into silicon moulds ( 1.5cm diame­ 5g agar-agar mixture to 4 •c and add the raspberry
ter, 7 cm long) and freeze. 5g gel Ian gum coulis. Allow the mixture to stand for
Yellow food colouring 24 hours, then put it in the Pacojet
container and freeze. When required,
Briefly bring all the ingredients, ex­ pacotize it once, pour it into pre­
cept for the food colour, to the boil pared raspberry silicon moulds and
125g cocoa butter and let it cool in a dish. Then process then freeze it again. Keep frozen until
650g white couverture chocolate it to a smooth gel in the Thermomix ready to serve.
White colouring (titanium dioxide) and colour it lightly with the food
colouring. Finally, strain the gel.
Dissolve the cocoa butter with the
chocolate couverture and colour with
the titanium oxide. Remove the frozen
gateaux and fill an airbrush with the
coating mixture. Spray the gateaux
very thinly with it. Freeze until ready
to serve.
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Peach meringue

TO SERVE
40g sugar
40g egg whites
40ml water Place a gateau in the centre of the
40ml peach liqueur (Manin) plate. Using the gels, spray a dab for
the ice cream and the dots. Apply
Whip 20g sugar and the egg white 2 small heaps of Mal to and create a
together in the mixer. Boil the re- dimple in the middle. Decorate the
maining sugar with the water and the gateaux with the blossoms, the cress
peach liquor to 125·c. Pour the syrup and the silver leaf. Place a fake rasp-
into the beaten egg whites in a berry in the Malta indentation and lay
thread-like fashion and then refrige- a quenelle of peach sorbet on top.
rate the mixture. Then spread the Decorate the sorbet and the gateaux
meringue mixture 2 mm thick on a with the peach meringue.
Silpat mat and dry in the oven at 75 •c
for about 12 hours.

Raspberry Malto

100g white couverture chocolate


7.5g raspberry seed oil
30g Malto
1 pinch of salt
50g Eclat d'Or (crepe wafers)

Melt the couverture and mix with


raspberry seed oil and Malta until
thick. Finally add salt and the Eclat
d'Or.

Decoration

15 violet blossoms
1 pack of atsina cress
2 sheets of silver leaf

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DISH VI 11

DARK
CHOCOLATE
OLIVE OIL
CALAMANSI
FLEUR DE SEL

Brioche crisps

Calamansi gel

Chocolate ganache

Fleur de Sel

Kumquats

Olive oil

Olive oil ice cream

146

147
DISH VIII

DARK CHOCOLATE
OLIVE OIL I CALAMANSI I FLEUR DE SEL

Olive oil ice cream Kumquats

625ml milk 500g kumquats


65 skim milk powder 350ml water
90g sugar 350g orange juice
115g glucose powder 350g sugar
25g inverted sugar 1 vanilla pod
25g sugar 1 bay leaf
4g Super Neutrose 1 cinnamon stick
75g eggs 4 cloves
250g cream Peel of 1 unwaxed lemon
125g olive oil
Blanch and quarter the kumquats. Remove the core
Warm the milk with the powdered milk, sugar, and cut out using a ellipse cutter. Bring the water,
glucose and inverted sugar to 40•c in the Thermo­ the orange juice, the sugar, the vanilla pod, the bay
mix. Mix the sugar with the Super Neutrose and leaf, the cinnamon stick, the cloves and the lemon
the whole egg and add them to the milk mixture. peel to the boil and pour them over the kumquats.
Then increase the temperature in the Thermomix Keep the kumquats in this liquid until serving.
to 86·c. Add cream and olive oil and then stir
the mixture over iced water until cool. Put the ice
cream mixture in a Pacojet container and put it Calamansi gel
in the freezer for at least 12 hours. Pacotize
as required. 600ml water
210g sugar
10g agar-agar
Salted chocolate ganache 10g gel Ian gum
600g calamansi puree
125g dark couverture chocolate
210ml cream Bring the water to the boil with sugar, agar-agar
70ml water and gellan. Meanwhile, bring the calamansi puree to
0.7g agar-agar the boil in a second pot. Mix both liquids and bring
20g inverted sugar to the boil again. Leave the mixture to cool in a dish
1 g Fleur de Sel and then process it in the Thermomix to an even,
1 sheet of gelatine, softened and squeezed smooth gel. Strain it.

Melt the chocolate icing and while you bring the


cream to the boil. Then, bit-by-bit, add the hot
cream to the melted chocolate. Allow the water
to boil once with the agar-agar, the inverted sugar
and the salt. Dissolve the gelatine in the mixture
and fold the mixture into the chocolate cream.
Fill the mixture into small silicon moulds and freeze.
Freeze until ready to serve.
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Brioche crisps

TO SERVE
½ small brioche
2 tbsp olive oil
Salt Place 4 salt chocolate drops in an alternating pat­
tern on the plate and garnish the plate with the gold
Briefly freeze the brioche and slice it into roughly leaf. Spray small dabs of calamansi gel between
1 mm thick slices using the slicing machine. Grease the drops. Decorate the dabs of gel with cress and
two Silpat mats with olive oil. Cut out rounds of kumquats. Stick the brioche crisps in the drops
brioche and spread them out on a mat. Cover with and lay them down, then top them with a scoop of
the second mat and bake in the oven at 160 •c for olive oil ice cream. Lightly sprinkle the drops with
about 14 minutes until golden. Fleur de Sel and drizzle the olive oil on the ice
cream and between the drops.

Garnish

1 gold leaf
1 bowl of atsina cress
Fleur de Sel
4 tbsp cold olive oil

148
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TOKYO

Paris-Tokyo is the title of Christian Bau's great menu -


a title which describes to perfection how he sees his
cooking and which defines his unmistakable style. It is
impossible to think of Bau's cuisine without thinking of
hamachi, miso or dashi. But his fascination for Japanese
culinary culture goes well beyond this. Christian Bau
was probably the first of the great chefs in this country
to incorporate Japanese taste into the European context
and at the same time to adapt it, to make it more intense.
This didn't just mean putting Japanese beef or chawan­
mushi on the menu and seasoning them with yuzu
or mirin. Rather, he adopted core features embodying
the spirit of Japanese haute cuisine. This means leav­
ing nothing to chance, thinking everything though and
seeking precision and perfection in every detail. And
naturally an obsessive focus on the ingredients. »I have

150

151
never asked a supplier for the price« says Christian Bau.
»I never talk about money; I only speak about charac­
teristics«. The Hawaiian palm heart that he serves with
wild hare - as a puree or in lightly coloured slices - cost
58 euros per kilo ...
Bau's awakening came on a trip to Tokyo in 2010, when,
coinciding with the appearance of the first Michelin
Guide for the Japanese capital, he visited the newly re­
commended restaurants. Mizutani, Ichikawa, Okuda ...
Bau says »I was fascinated by the extreme concentra­
tion of the Japanese masters. The perfect technique, the
rigor of the craft. Also their modesty, discipline and
seriousness. How hard they were on themselves, how
uncompromising. Every step counts«. This is a principle
which for Bau is symbolic, and characterises his own
uncompromising aesthetics. Every tiny element must
be accurate, the slightest divergences must be corrected.
This is a demand which lies at the very heart of his cui­
sine and which some can't live up to. A demand which
also makes things difficult - for Bau himself and for
those around him. »There are some things which one
simply cannot do« is all he has to say on this topic.
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>DELUXE< SUSHI
KING CRAB I GILLARDEAU OYSTERS I BIJOU DE LA MER

BLUE LOBSTER
GREEN ZEBRA I BUFFALO MOZZARELLA I DASHI MELON

· ARTICHOKES
WALNUT I TRUFFLES I POMELO

TURBOT
RAZOR CLAMS I SPINACH I KATSUOBUSHI

HOT & SOUR SOUP >DELUXE<


SEAFOOD I FOIE GRAS I TRUFFLES

AUBERGINE I PEPPERS I M'HAMSA I BLACK GARLIC

WILD STRAWBERRIES
PLUM WINE I GREEN SHISO SORBET I CRISPS

COCONUT YUZU ICE CREAM


VITAMIN-RICH FRUITS IN TEXTURE
MENU
IV

DI SH I

>DELUXE<
SUSHI
KING CRAB
GILLARDEAU OYSTERS
BIJOU DE LA MER

Bijou de la mer

Gillardeau oysters

King crab and whitefish sushi

Soy sauce gel

Sushi vinaigrette

156

157
DISH I

>DELUXE< SUSHI
KING CRAB I GILLARDEAU OYSTERS I BIJOU DE LA MER

1 live king crab, about 3kg Whitefish

Steam the live king crab at 100 'C for 12 minutes. 1 fillet of yellowfin mackerel or 1 large seabass
Then take off the legs and claws and shock it in ice (slaughtered using the ikejime method, 3kg gross
water. Steam the head for another 5 minutes at weight, filleted, ready-to-cook)
100·c and then also shock it in ice water. 2 00ml liquid marinade 1 (see below)
Carefully remove the meat from the legs and the
claws and free it from the pincers and the mem- Cut the fillet in half lengthwise and remove the
branes. When pulling out the meat, do so in smaller bones. Then take the dorsal part from the skin,
chunks. remove the fat and cut it into the shape you want.
Store the belly in the refrigerator for other uses.
Vacuum-seal the cleaned dorsal fillet with the liquid
marinade 1 and marinate for 2 hours. Then remove
it from the marinade, pat it dry and cut it into 16
100ml Shiro dashi slices, each 2 mm thick.
100ml higashimaru ramen soup (ready-made soy
sauce product)
250ml water Liquid marinade 1
50ml chanponzu
5g agar-agar 25g ginger
5g gel Ian gum 30g lemon grass
2 g kaffir lime leaves
Bring all the liquids to the boil and thicken with 2 g salt
agar-agar. Cool thoroughly and allow to gel. Then 350ml water
use the Thermomix to beat the mixture into a 1 tsp rice vinegar
smooth gel.
Peel the ginger and cut it into small pieces. Beat
the lemon grass and then it chop finely. Heat it
Sushi with the kaffir lime leaves, salt and water at 80 ·c
in a pot. Then cover with clingfilm and let it stand
240g shelled, cleaned king crab meat (see above) for 1 hour. Then strain, pour in rice vinegar and
50g soya gel (see above) refrigerate.
Zest of 1 untreated lime
Maldon salt
8 slices of peeled white radish, 1mm thick,
6 x 15cm wide
10 oysters (Gillardeau No 2)
Season the king crab flesh with soy gel, lime zest
and Maldon salt. Put the same amount of this Open the oysters and separate them from the
mixture in each of the radish slices. Cover the pre- muscle. Collect the oyster water and strain. Poach
pared rolls in cling foil and seal tightly. Finally allow the oysters in the oyster water at 42 ·c for 1 minute.
it to cool in the refrigerator for 30 minutes and Then remove the beard and slice the oysters into
portion out 2 sushi from each roll, each 6 cm long. 4 thin medallions.
MENU
IV

Soy coating

TO SERVE
72 ml soy tsuyu dashi (ready-made soy sauce
product)
72 ml higashimaru ramen soup (ready-made soy Place the whitefish on the sushi, brush with the soy
sauce product) coating and lay 2 oyster medallions on top. Then
195ml water decorate with a dab of soy gel next to the oysters
15 ml chanponzu and put the lobster caviar on top. Garnish with
3.2 g xanthan gum flowers and cress and arrange everything on the
plate. Finally, pour on the sushi vinaigrette and
Mix all the ingredients together and then add in the serve immediately.
xanthan gum.

Note: all the soy sauces and vinegars used for this
Sushi vinaigrette dish come from >FoodConnection<, Reinbek

50 ml white soy sauce


40 ml chanponzu
40 ml Sanbai bonito vinegar
10ml rice vinegar for seafood
5 g bergamot puree
0.5 g xanthan gum
25 ml miso oil (see page 348)
200 ml vegetable oil

Mix all ingredients except the xanthan gum and the


oils. Then thicken it with xanthan gum and add in
the oils with a thin stream to make a finely beaded
vinaigrette.

Garnish

32 g Bijou de la mer (lobster caviar)


16 daikon cress leaves
8 each of dark and light cornflowers

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IV

DISH 11

BLUE
LOB-STER
GREEN ZEBRA
BUFFALO MOZZARELLA
DASHI MELON

Blue lobster

Buffalo mozzarella

Coriander oil

Dashi from green zebra tomatoes

Dashi watermelon

Fried lobster croquette

Miso oil

Tomato gel

160

161
DI SH II

BLUE LOBSTER
GREEN ZEBRA I BUFFALO MOZZARELLA I DASHI MELON

4 x 550 g Breton lobsters Lobster

Attach the lobsters individually to large cooking 4 cooked lobster tails, meat only
spoons with kitchen twine so that the tail takes a 50 ml lemon vinaigrette (see page 348)
straight shape. Then steam them at 100 ·c in the Maldon salt, freshly-ground black pepper
convection oven or the steamer for 4.30 minutes
and immediately shock in ice water. Then remove Cut the lobster tails in half, lengthwise Clean them
the claws and cook for another 9 minutes and and then cut them into 5-6 medallions. Marinate
shock in the same way. Remove the meat from the in a lime vinaigrette. Add salt and pepper and warm
cooled claw. Remove the protein, cover and keep them on a plate covered with cling film in the Hold­
refrigerated on kitchen paper until use. Then o-Mat at 60 •c for 5 minutes.
take the meat from the lobster tails, wash it care­
fully and handle it in the following manner:
Lobster croquette

8 lobster claws
2 tbsp blanched vegetable brunoise (carrots,
celeriac, courgette)
2 tbsp traditional fish stuffing
Salt, pepper
120 g kataifi pastry
500 ml palm fat

Remove the pincers from the claws and chop the


meat into 4 mm long fine cubes. Mix with vege­
table brunoise and stuffing, and season with salt
and pepper. Make small rolls out of the mixture
(1.5 x 3.5 cm) and roll them up in the kataifi pastry.
Fry in palm oil at 170 •c until golden. Finally, lightly
season with salt.

Green zebra dashi

800 g fully ripe green zebra tomatoes


50 g light misc paste
5 g basil leaves
5 g coriander leaves
3 g tarragon leaves
15 g sugar
15 g salt
1 pinch of cayenne pepper

Puree all the ingredients in the Thermomix and


then leave the mixture suspended in a cloth strain­
er. Collect the resulting clear liquid over hours.
MENU
IV

To flavour Mozzarella pearls

TO SERVE
250 ml Green zebra tomato stock (see left) 250 ml mozzarella whey (water)
6 g dried edamame 13.5 g vegetable gelatine (Sosa)
1 g dried ginger 175 g buffalo mozzarella Set the warmed lobster medallions in the centre
3 g dried shiitake mushrooms 7.5 g creme fraTche of the plate. Arrange 3 mozzarella pearls and 2
0.5 g dried garlic 1 g Gelespessa (Sosa) large and 3 small melon balls around them. Dab the
1 pinch of xanthan gum tomato gel on the plate and garnish it with cresses
Bring 200 ml of the whey to the boil and thicken it and flower petals. Finally pour on the tomato dashi
Mix the tomato stock with the dried ingredients in with vegetarian gelatine. Mix the remaining whey and serve the fried croquette separately.
a pot, warm up to 75 •c and let it stand u_ncovered with 25 g mozzarella in the Thermomix at 60 ·c.
for 1 hour. Then strain through a cloth sieve and Then add the remaining mozzarella, creme frakhe
thicken with the xanthan gum. and Gelespessa and mix again at 60 ·c . Strain the
mixture twice through a fine sieve, fill into a silicon
mini-ball mould (10 g per ball) and freeze for at
To finish least 8 hours. Take the frozen balls from the mould,
stick a toothpick in each one and dip them in the
250 ml thick, flavoured tomato dashi (see above) hot brine coating. Let them thaw in the refrigerator
20 ml miso oil {see page 348) and remove the toothpick.
20 ml coriander oil (see page 348)

Mix in the oils to make a finely-beaded mixture. Watermelon balls

50 ml Sanbai bonito vinegar


Tomato gel 25 ml grapeseed oil
16 watermelon balls (1.5 cm diameter)
350 ml Green Zebra tomato stock (see left) 24 watermelon balls (1.0 cm diameter)
50 g chardonnay vinegar (Forum)
Salt, pepper, sugar Stir the vinegar into the oil and vacuum seal with
4g agar-agar the melon balls to 100 %, the refrigerate for 12
4g gellan gum hours. Allow to drain thoroughly before use.

Mix the tomato stock with the vinegar and season


with salt, pepper and sugar. Drizzle in the agar-agar Garnish
and gellan and bring to the boil. Pour into a mould
and use the Thermomix to whip the mixture into 1 pack coriander cress
a smooth gel. 1 pack green shiso cress
1 pack of affilla cress
1 cornflower
1 marigold

162
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DISH 111

ARTICHOKE
WALNUT
TRUFFLE
PO MELO

Artichoke chips

Artichoke puree

Artichoke stock, foamed

Glazed artichokes

Grissini

Parmesan

Pomelo fillets

Pomelo gel

Rocket

Truffle

Truffle jus

Truffle vinaigrette

Walnut-parmesan paste
BAU.STEINE DISH Ill

A classical triad: artichoke-parmesan-wal­


nut. It just shows how you can extract the
maximum flavour from seemingly simple
products. Typically for Bau, the original
dish includes multitudes of different, very
elaborate textures of artichoke - every
individual element is clearly defined in
flavour and expressive in its own right.
The fundamental chord: artichoke hearts
cooked in aromatised tomato water - fruit
and tartness as a contrast to subtle earth­
iness. A finely roasted walnut-parmesan
paste underscores the nuttiness and gives
volume and a subtle pomelo gel provides
fresh, fruity accents. A vegetable platter
for late summer which Christian Bau con­
siders to be the perfect foundation for su­
perb Australian winter truffles.
MENU
IV

Glazed artichokes Walnut Pomelo gel

800g tomatoes 100 g walnuts, without skins 100ml pomelo juice, freshly pressed
100g miso paste 40g parmesan, grated 50ml water
10g tarragon ½ tsp grated garlic 25g sugar
Salt, pepper ½ tsp grated ginger 2 g agar-agar
16 baby artichokes Zest of½ lime 2g gellan gum
Juice from 3 limes, mixed with 750ml water 1 tbsp walnut oil
50g finely diced shallots 1 tbsp olive oil Bring all ingredients to the boil and allow to cool.
50g diced mushrooms Salt, pepper Whip the mixture to a smooth gel in the Thermomix
2 tbsp vegetable oil and pass it through a fine strainer.
70ml white wine Roast half of the walnuts. Then put all ingredients
50ml Noilly Prat in a Pacojet container and pacotize them three
sugar times. Season with salt and pepper and form into
10g basil scoops using 2 spoons.
10g thyme
50g butter

Mix the tomatoes, miso paste, tarragon and some


salt and pepper in a Thermomix until the mixture is
finely mixed, then let it strain in a cloth strainer
overnight. Store the liquid collected.
Clean and turn the artichokes (remove the stems
from 8 of them) and then store them in lime water.
Saute the shallots and mushrooms in oil until
they are translucent. Add the artichokes and add
wine and Noilly Prat to them. Reduce, top up with
tomato water and then bring to the boil. Add salt,
pepper, sugar, basil and thyme. Let it stand for
10 minutes. Then take the artichokes out of the
stock and allow them to cool separately. Boil down
a third of the stock into a syrup. Cut the artichokes
in half with the stem. Then glaze the artichokes
in a pan with the stock reduction and butter and
season them to taste.

166
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DISH 111

ARTICHOKE
WALNUT I TRUFFLES I POMELO

Glazed artichokes Artichoke chips


---- - - - -
PAGE 167

2 artichokes
Artichoke puree Juice of 1 lime, mixed with water
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
6 large artichokes Salt
Juice from 3 limes, mixed with 750 ml water
100 g finely diced shallots Clean the artichokes and store them in lime water.
100 g diced mushrooms Heat the oil to 140 ·c. Cut thin slices of artichokes
2 tbsp vegetable oil with a vegetable slicer and blanch them immedi­
50 ml white wine ately in boiling salted water. Let them cool briefly in
30 ml Neilly Prat ice water and allow them to dry. Then fry in oil until
300 ml reduced artichoke stock (see page 167) golden. Season with salt and keep warm.
50 ml cream
30 g creme frakhe
Salt, pepper, sugar Artichoke cubes

Clean the artichokes and store them in lime water. Juice from 2 limes
Lightly saute the shallots and mushrooms in oil 500 ml water
without colouring. Dice and add the artichokes. 2 large artichokes
Then add white wine and Neilly Prat. Reduce the 1 tbsp vegetable oil
mixture and then fill it up with stock and cream. Salt, sugar
Cook the artichokes until they become soft. Then
process with the Thermomix until finely mixed. Mix lime juice and water. Clean the artichokes and
Add creme frakhe, season with salt, pepper and store them in lime water. Then cut into 2 mm cubes
sugar and pass through a fine sieve. and briefly saute them in oil in a hot pan. Season
with salt and pepper and use for the truffle vinai­
grette (see right).

Artichoke stock

1st mixture
300 g washed artichoke segments
4 shallots
8 mushrooms
20 g ginger, finely-chopped
2 stalks of finely-chopped lemongrass
Olive oil
250 ml white wine
3 thyme sprigs
3 L chicken stock (see page 345)
Salt, pepper

Finely chop vegetable and mushrooms and saute


in olive oil in a pot with ginger and lemongrass.
Add white wine, thyme and pour in chicken stock.
Reduce to about 2 I, blend thoroughly with a hand­
held blender and then strain. Season discreetly
with salt and pepper.
MENU
IV

2nd Mixture Truffle vinaigrette


3 shallots
TO SERVE
6 mushrooms 100 ml dashi (see page 347)
20 g peeled ginger 10 ml truffle juice
100 g slices of lberico ham 12 ml rice vinegar Lay the glazed artichokes on a pre-warmed plate.
Olive oil 1 pinch of xanthan gum >Loosely< arrange the pomelo, walnut morsels, ar­
20 g coriander seeds 5 tbsp grapeseed oil tichoke puree and pomelo gel on the plate. Garnish
2 star aniseed 5 tbsp hazelnut oil with all the garnishes and artichoke chips. Then,
250 ml Neilly Prat Fried artichoke cubes (see left) pour on truffle vinaigrette and the hot foamed
3 thyme sprigs 30 g minced truffle (se left) artichoke stock. Finally, garnish with fresh truffles
8 coriander sprigs 15 g chives, finely chopped and the grissini.
2 L 1st mixture (see left) Salt, pepper, sugar
Salt, pepper
Mix dashi, truffle juice and rice vinegar and thicken
Finely chop vegetable and ginger and saute in hot the mixture with xanthan gum. Then fold in the
olive oil in a pot with the ham. Add coriander seeds oils with a spoon to make a finely beaded mixture.
and star anise and pour Neilly Prat over the mix­ Add the fried artichoke cubes to the vinaigrette
ture. Add thyme and coriander and top up with the with the chopped truffle and chives and season it
1st mixture. Reduce to 1 L, then strain and season with salt, pepper and sugar.
with salt and pepper.

Grissini
Walnut
--- - PAGE 167
-
75 flour
6 ml olive oil
P_o_m_ e_ lo
_ _ge_ _l__ 6 g porcini powder
_ PAGE 167
2 g yeast
45 ml chicken stock (see page 345)
Pomelo 4g salt

1 pomelo (or pink grapefruit) Process all ingredients to a smooth dough and let
it stand for about 1 hour in cling film. Then sift
Using a knife, separate the pomelo from the skin some flour onto the countertop and roll it out to
and cut it into segments. Cut the segments into a thickness of 2 mm. Cut out strips that are 2 mm
2cm pieces. wide and 16cm long. Put the dough strips on a
baking pan that is covered with a Silpat mat and
bake at 160 ·c for 7-9 minutes.
Truffle

2 fresh winter truffles at 40-50 g (or Australian Garnish


truffles)
16 small watercress leaves
Peel the truffles and slice them thinly. Make donut 16 rocket tips
shapes out of them using two cutting rings. Finely 16 tips of fine frisee lettuce
chop the resulting pieces and the peel and use 16 fine parmesan shavings
them for the truffle vinaigrette (see right). 16 traditional pommes soufflees

168
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169
DISH IV

TURBOT
RAZOR CLAMS
SPINACH
KATSUOBUSHI

Chive oil

Dashi butter

Katsuobushi jus

Pearl onions

Razor clams

Spinach

Spinach puree

Thai leeks

Turbot

Watercress leaves
DISH IV

TURBOT
RAZOR CLAMS I SPINACH I KATSUOBUSHI

Turbot Dashi butter

2 Turbot fillets (1 large and 1 small back fillet) from a 250 ml white wine
5 kg French turbot 750 ml dashi (see page 347)
1 L water 100 g salted raw milk butter
80 g salt 100 g sweet cream butter
150 g salted butter Salt, cayenne pepper
80 g butter 50 g chives, chopped small
40g miso paste for flaming (see page 349)
Reduce the white wine by a third and then pour in
Cut the turbot with the skin into 4 hand-sized the dashi. Reduce to 200 ml. Then put in the butter
pieces. Mix water and salt to an 8 % brine solution and season to taste with salt, cayenne pepper and
and marinade the turbot in it for 18 minutes. dashi. Foam up shortly before serving and add
Then pat the fish dry, cover it with thin strips of chives.
salted butter and vacuum seal it. Then cook it at
48 'C in the bain-marie for 9 minutes. Remove it
from the water and leave it to rest in a warm place Miso paste for searing
for about 6 minutes. Remove it from the bag.
Dry it and heat the butter in a pan until it begins to 85 g light miso paste
foam. Baste the turbot and sear the skin with a 1 7 g honey
culinary torch until the skin can be easily removed. 17 ml mirin
Then thinly coat the outer side of the fish with 8.5 g salt
the searing paste and then torch it again. Let the
fish stand in a warm place for 2-3 minutes, and Mix all the ingredients and refrigerate. Stir up again
then slice it. before use. Coat the fish with it on the fillet side
after browning and caramelise the paste with the
culinary torch.

Razor clams

1 kg razor clams
30 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)
Salt, pepper

Soak the razor clams in cold water for about 1 hour.


Then separate the clam meat from the shell. Dry
it carefully and roll it up tightly in cling film. Cook the
razor clams for 3 minutes at 48 'C in the bain-marie
and immediately shock in iced water. Then take
out the clam meat, cut it diagonally, marinate it in
shiso vinaigrette, add salt and pepper, and warm it
in the Hold-o-Mat at 65 'C for 10 minutes.
MENU
IV

Turbotjus Spinach puree

TO SERVE
1 turbot head 750 g fresh spinach
1 carrot Salt
1 shallot 100 ml cream Place the turbot in the centre of a warmed plate.
1 clove of garlic 2 tbsp butter Arrange the spinach puree, Thai leeks and pearl
3 tbsp vegetable oil White pepper, nutmeg onions around it and garnish with marinated
0.75 ml veal jus (see page 344) 50 g brown sugar spinach and watercress leaves. Finally pour on the
20 g bonito flakes (katsuobushil 2 tbsp brown butter hot turbot jus and the foamed dashi butter and
2 tbsp low-salt soy sauce finish it with chive oil.
4 g xanthan gum Clean the spinach thoroughly and remove stalks.
Blanch in salt water and shock in iced water. Rinse
Cut the turbot head into quarters and soak it out the blanched spinach in order to remove
for about 30 minutes. Then store it in iced water all excess liquid. Then put it in Pacojet container
for 24 hours. and freeze for 12 hours. Then pacotize at least
Cut the carrot and shallot into slices, cut the garlic three times. Freeze the spinach >mat< after each
clove in half and slow cook all these ingredients pacotizing. To serve, put the spinach mat with
in oil. Cook the soaked turbot head in the oven at cream and butter in a pot and bring to the boil.
160 'C for 1 hour. Turn the head once during the Season it with salt, pepper, sugar, nutmeg. and
cooking. Then bring the turbot head to the boil brown butter. If necessary, strain the puree in or-
once in a pot with the vegetables and the veal jus der to remove the remaining pieces of spinach.
and then let it simmer it for 1 hour at low heat.
Then strain and heat the stock to 80 'C. Add 20 g
bonito flakes per litre stock and let it stand for Pearl onions
1 more hour. Finally, pass it through a line sieve,
season to taste with soy sauce and thicken with 10 small pearl onions
xanthan gum. 50ml water
50 ml white balsamic vinegar
50 g sugar
Thai leeks 2 g salt

16 stems of line Thai leeks (garlic chives) Peel the pearl onions. Bring the remaining ingre­
20 g butter dients to the boil and pour over peeled onions. Let
40 L chicken stock (see page 345) them stand for 12 hours. Then cut the pearl onions
Salt, pepper, sugar lengthwise in half and sear them with a culinary
torch. Remove the skins from the pearl onions,
Cut the Thai leeks into 7 cm lengths, removing without damaging the seared side. Select the most
the outer skin. Then sweat in butter, deglaze with attractive pearl onions skins.
chicken stock and stew lightly in it. Season to
taste with salt, pepper and sugar. Garnish

200 g small spinach leaves


24 small watercress leaves
20 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)
30 ml chive oil (see page 348)

Marinate the spinach and watercress leaves with


shiso vinaigrette.

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MENU
IV

DISH V

HOT & SOUR


SOUP >DE LUXE<
SEAFOOD
FOIE GRAS
TRUFFLE

Abalone

Beech mushrooms

Chawanmushi

Coriander leaves

Edamame

Enoki

Goose liver

Hot & Sour Soup

Miso oil

Mu err (wood earl mushrooms

Red Gamberoni

Shellfish oil

Sweetcorn

Truffle

174

175
BAU.STEINE DISH V

A almost artistic masterly combination


of several worlds: Bau takes the blazing
hot, super spicy and addictive soup that
is served in a thousand variations by every
second Asian cooking stand and tempers
it with choice Japanese savoury custard.
Marinated pork neck and chilli, garlic and
coriander, lightly thickened, encounter
the elegance of creamy, silky tofu - the
perfect stage for a real fireworks display
of the most refined aromas and textures,
crunchy-sweetgamberoni segments, nutty
abalone slices, cubes of smooth goose liv­
er, aromatic truffles, mushrooms, edama­
me ... Every spoonful creates a new taste
experience, tartness, spiciness, sweet­
ness and silky creaminess competing to
reach your synapses. Ravishing!
ME

Hot & Sour Soup Chawanmushi Red Gamberoni

500 g pork neck 400 ml dashi (see page 347) 4 red gamberoni, without the shell (6/8 calibration)
500 g chicken breast 1.5 g bonito flakes Salt, pepper
500 ml low-salt soy sauce 1 g kaffir limes
100 g mu err (wood ear) mushrooms, dried 2g ginger Put each gamberoni on a wooden skewer
100 g shiitake mushrooms, dried 2.2g kombu (Schaschlik) right through the middle, so that it
100 g enoki mushrooms, dried 0.5 g unwaxed yuzu zest (or lemon zest) can remain straight when it is being cooked. Then
500 ml warm water 3.5 ml white soy sauce season on all sides with salt and pepper and briefly
2 tbsp vegetable oil 8 g oysters saute them in a hot Teflon pan (60-80 seconds).
50 ml Bordeaux vinegar 4 ml Jakobs dashi (finished product) Remove the skewer and cut each gamberoni into
50 ml rice vinegar 50 ml cream 1 cm thick pieces. The gamberoni should be thor­
1 garlic bulb 4 egg yolks oughly translucent.
1 L chicken stock (see page 345) 4 eggs
1 chili pod Salt, sugar
10 g coriander
Heat the dashi to 70 ·c, then add all the ingredients
Trim the pork neck and chicken the breast and except the cream and the eggs. Cover and let stand
chop them into small pieces. Marinate the meat in for 30 minutes. Then strain, add the cream and
the soy sauce and let it stand for 30 minutes. eggs and mix well. Season it with salt and sugar. Fill
Lay the dried mushrooms in warm water and let a porcelain bowl (or 8-9cm diameter Asian teacup)
them also stand for 30 minutes. Then put the meat and place it in a deep roasting pan. Cover the tray
in a sieve, allow it to drain well and fry it in oil in a with aluminium foil and heat at 80 ·c for 35-40
very hot pot. Add Bordeaux and rice vinegar as well minutes in a steam oven. When removing from
as garlic. Then add the mushrooms along with the oven, ensure that the chawanmushi has thickened .
mushroom water. Top up with chicken stock and
add the chilli and the coriander. Bring to the boil
once and then let it stand for about 5 hours. Finally
strain the soup.

_ _ r if
_Cla _ i_n_g _ t_he_ _H_o_t _& _ S_ o_ u_r _S _o_ u _p__ PAGE 178
_ y

_A_ro_m_a _t i _s_in�g _ t_h_e _H_o_t_&_S _ o_u _r_S _o _u�p__ PAGE 178


DISH V

HOT & SOUR SOUP >DE LUXE<


SEAFOOD I FOIE GRAS I TRUFFLE

_H_ot
_ &
_ _ S_o_ur
_ S
_ o _ __,p__ PAG
_ u Insert
E 177

40 enoki mushrooms
Clarifying the Hot& So ur Soup 40 mu err (wood ear) mushrooms
40 beech mushrooms
1 L Hot & Sour Soup (see page 177) 1 tbsp vegetable oil
500 ml liquid egg white Salt, pepper
250 g clarifying meat (minced chicken meat) 40 edamame
40 kernels of corn
Blend all ingredients with a hand-held blender and 24 chilli threads
bring the mixture to the boil in the soup on low 1 x 30-40 g truffles, peeled
heat. During this process, continually remove the 200 g fry-ready goose liver, best quality, nerves
mixture from the bottom of the pot to prevent removed
sticking. Then strain the clarified soup through a
cloth strainer. Trim the enoki tips to a length of about 2 cm. Re-
move the mu err mushrooms from the soup mixture
and cut them into small triangles of 1 cm in length.
Arom atising the Hot& SourSoup Shorten the beech mushrooms to about 2 cm,
brown in vegetable oil and season with salt and
1 L clarified Hot & Sour Soup (see page 177) pepper. Remove the skin from the edamame and
1 red chilli, without seeds warm it up in some hot & sour soup. Lightly sear
100 g coriander the sweetcorn kernels using a culinary torch and
20 g ginger then warm them up in the soup, too.
2 tbsp soy sauce, best quality For the chilli threads, cut a chilli into very fine
approx. 4 g xanthan gum strips and place them in iced water until they curl
up. For the truffle coins, cut a truffle in thin slices
Heat up the soup then add all ingredients and let it and cut out 24 coins with a ring (3 cm diameter).
stand for about 10 minutes. Then strain and lightly Cut the goose liver into 2 cm thick slices and
thicken it with the xanthan gum. season it with salt and pepper. Then vacuum seal
each slice separately and cook them for 9 minutes
at 58 •c in the bain-marie. Then allow the slices
Chawanmushi to cool completely in iced water. Cut them into
- - -----PAGE 177
cubes and brown on all sides with a culinary torch.
Finally, cook the goose liver cubes for a further
2 minutes in the oven at 200 ·c until done.
MENU
IV

Abalone

TO SERVE
2 large, live abalones
10 ml dashi (see page 347)
10 ml light brown soy sauce Briefly warm up the bowl with the chawanmushi
10g kombu in the oven at 120'C. Then place the king prawns,
abalone and goose liver cubes on top. Then distrib­
Cut the abalones from their shells, wash, clean and ute enoki mushrooms, mu err mushrooms, beech
hit gently with a tenderiser. Then put the other mushrooms, edamame, chilli threads, truffle,
ingredients into a vacuum pouch and heat at 72 'C sweetcorn and coriander leaves evenly in the bowl.
in a bain-marie for 12 hours. Then them cool off Pour the heated Hot & Sour Soup over the dish and
and cut them into 1 mm thick slices. Before serving drizzle finish it off by drizzling miso oil and shellfish
3 slices per portion, warm them up to 63 ·c in the oil onto it.
Hold-o-mat for 5 minutes.

Red Gamberoni
- ----- -
PAGE 177

Garnish

24 coriander leaves
Miso oil (see page 348)
Shellfish oil (see page 128)

178
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179
MENU
IV

DI SH VI

LAMB
AUBERGINE
PEPPERS
M'HAMSA
BLACK GARLIC

Aubergine foam

Aubergine puree

Baked aubergine

Belly of lamb terrine

Black garlic paste

Coriander oil

Lambjus

M'Hamsa

Paprika drops

Pearl onions

Pommes soufflees

Red pepper cream

Saddle of lamb

180

181
BAU.STEINE DISH VI

Lamb is one of the main cornerstones of


great French cuisine. Nowadays, excep­
tional quality lamb is produced in Germany
too. The tenderness and delicacy of the
meat produced at Hofgut Pelting re­
minds Christian Bau of the best Sisteron
lamb. Browned the meat until crispy, gen­
tly cooking it in the oven until it is pink
and then baste it with foamed, garlic and
thyme.infused butter. Even by itself, this
meat would be a delight. This is all the
more so when harmonised with its deep­
ly flavoured, aromatic jus made of lamb
shoulder, sherry, port ... Bau's character­
istically Asian-influenced accompaniment
is sweetish, earthy, slightly bitter and
smoky: a baked, grilled aubergine that,
with its coating of sake, mirin and miso
paste, absorbs the depth of the sauce.
MENU
IV

Lamb Baked aubergine Lamb jus

4 pieces of deboned saddle of lamb at 180g with 1 small firm aubergine 50g carrots
fat covering it, matured for 14 days on the bone Vegetable oil for deep-frying 50g celery
(recommendation: lamb from Hofgut Pelting) 25ml sake 70g mushrooms
Salt, pepper 25ml mirin 70g shallots
2 tbsp vegetable oil 25g brown sugar 1 garlic bulb
50g butter 50g miso paste 4 tbsp vegetable oil
3 cloves of garlic 3g sesame seeds 1kg shoulder of lamb
3 thyme sprigs 3g salt 2 bay leaves
Fleur de Sel 1 pinch of Fleur de Sel 10 white peppercorns
5 juniper berries
Trim all but about 3mm off the fat covering from Cut the aubergine into slices and prick the skin 150ml madeira
the saddle of lamb and then make hash-like several times with a needle. Then fry it until it is 150ml red port
incisions into the thin coat of fat. Season the meat golden brown in oil at 180 •c for 75-90 seconds and 100ml Neilly Prat
with salt and pepper and brown all around but shock it in iced water. Then bring sake, mirin and 50ml sherry
primarily on the fat side. Then continue to cook sugar to the boil together, and mix with the miso 1.2 L veal jus (see page 344)
in the oven at 200 •c for 3 minutes, then allow it paste to form a coating. Lay the aubergine slices on Salt, pepper
to stand in the Hold-o-Mat at 63 ·c for at least a lightly dampened tray and brush them with the 1 pinch of xanthan gum
30 minutes. Baste the lamb in a pan with butter miso coating. Then cook in the over at 220•c for 3 50ml cold (!) Olive oil
foamed up with garlic and thyme until it shows a minutes and then grill them for 2 more minutes on
core temperature of 53 ·c. Let the meat stand the Green Egg Grill. Lightly roast the sesame seeds, Clean all the vegetables, cut them into hazel­
again for 10 minutes. Before serving, brown the fat grind them in a mortar with the salt and sprinkle nut-sized pieces and brown them in vegetable oil.
side on the griddle until it is good and crispy. Then the mixture over the aubergine. Finally, season with Then roughly trim the shoulder of lamb, cut it also
cut it lengthwise and season with salt and coarsely Fleur de Sel. into hazelnut-sized pieces, add it to the vegetables
ground pepper. and cook them together. Add the seasonings and
slowly add the alcohol and allow the mixture to
completely reduce. Then fill to the top with veal
jus and allow to slowly simmer for 3 hours. Strain
the jus, reduce it to 400 ml, season it with salt and
pepper and thicken it with xanthan gum. Shortly
before serving, whip in the olive oil using a whisk.

182
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183
DISH VI

LAMB
AUBERGINE I PEPPERS I M'HAMSA I BLACK GARLIC

Lamb Aubergine mixture Aubergine puree


----PAGE 183

8 aubergines Aubergine mixture (see left)


Belly of lamb terrine 8 tbsp olive oil Miso reduction (see right)
Salt, pepper, sugar Salt, pepper, sugar
1 kg belly of lamb 8 thyme sprigs 1 pinch of xanthan gum
Salt, pepper 8 rosemary sprigs
5 tbsp olive oil Season the aubergine mixture with
1 tbsp transglutaminase Cut the aubergines in half lengthwise the miso reduction. Season it with
3 tbsp onion crumble (see right) and cut crosses into them, moisten salt, pepper and sugar, and thicken it
10 g chives, finely sliced lightly with olive oil, season with salt, a bit with xanthan gum. Then reduce
pepper and sugar, and sprinkle thyme in a pot to a third of the weight until
Remove the majority of the fat from and rosemary sprigs on every second the puree is no longer runny.
the lamb belly. Season the belly with aubergine half. Then close up the
salt and pepper and brown it in olive aubergines and wrap them in alumin­
oil on (only!) one side. Powder the ium foil. Cook the aubergines in the Auberg ine foam
other side with a very Ii ne coat of oven at 250 ·c for 35 minutes. Then
transglutaminase. Then layer the lamb scrape the flesh out of the aubergines 200 g aubergine puree (see above)
saddle in a terrine mould covered and remove the seeds. Use a cloth 4 ml lemon juice
with cling film. Press it down. Cover it sieve to drain the liquid. Then use the 5g mustard
with film and double vacuum seal it. Thermomix to process it well. 2 eggs
Steam for 30 minutes at 80 ·c and 120 ml grape seed oil
then cook it in the Hold-o-Mat at 40 ml miso oil (see page 348)
75 •c for 12 hours. Cool the terrine Miso reduct ion Salt, sugar, pepper
thoroughly in iced water then slice it 1 pinch of ground cumin
lengthwise in 1.5 cm thick squares that 50 g shallots, chopped small
are 3.5 cm long. To serve, saute the 1 clove of garlic, crushed Work the aubergine puree into an
terrine pieces on all sides until golden 50 mushrooms, finely chopped aubergine foam as described under
brown and sprinkle them with onion 3 tbsp vegetable oil >Vegetable foam< (see page 349) and
crumble and chives. 100 g miso paste season with cumin.
70 ml sherry vinegar
200 ml veal jus (see page 344)
Lambjus 1 small sprig of thyme B ked
PAGE 183 _a
_ _ _ _aub
_ _ er_ ..=g in
_ e_ __ PAGE 183
1 small sprig of rosemary

Saute the shallots, garlic and mush­


rooms in oil. Add the miso paste and
brown everything lightly. Add sherry
vinegar and reduce. Then fill it up
with the veal jus, a little thyme and
rosemary and let it simmer down to
about a half. Lastly, pass through a
fine conical sieve.
MENU
IV

M'Hamsa Onion puree Black garlic paste

TO SERVE
300 ml chicken stock (see page 345) 300g white onions 80g black garlic
150g hand-rolled couscous (M'Hamsa ) Salt, sugar 20 g black rice vinegar
1 yellow pepper 30g creme frakhe 20g low-salt soy sauce, best quality Arrange a scoop of the m'hamsa and
1 red pepper 1 pinch of xanthan gum Salt, sugar the baked aubergine in the centre
1 courgette Cayenne pepper of a pre-warmed plate. Place the
30g Taggiasca olives, chopped Press the garlic th rough a fine sieve saddle of lamb and the belly of lamb
1 tbsp vegetable oil Peel the onions and cut into 5mm and then mix it with rice vinegar and on the plate. Drape the aubergine
4 tbsp lamb jus (see page 183) strips. Season with salt and sugar and soy sauce in the Thermomix for 2 puree, the aubergine foam, the
30g butter leave for 20 minutes to draw off minutes at the highest setting until onion puree, the pepper cream and
20g parsley, finely chopped the water from the onions. Simmer fine. Pass it through a fine strainer the black garlic around them. Then
Salt, pepper, sugar the dehydrated onions in the resulting and season it with salt and sugar. garnish with onion skins, mini paprika
liquid in a pot until they become soft drops, pommes souffles and affilla
Reduce the chicken stock by a half. and then cover them with perforated cress. Drizzle the coriander oil in the
Then add the couscous. Remove it baking paper. Then drain the onions Red pepper cream onion skins and finally pour on the
from the heat and let it stand for 20 and mix them in the Thermomix hot sauce.
minutes. Then put it onto a tray and with creme frakhe and xanthan gum 5 red peppers
refrigerate. Peel the peppers. Make until the mixture is fine. Then pass 50ml vodka
2mm thick pieces by cutting through through a fine sieve and reduce in a approximately 4g agar-agar
the courgette skin and chopping pot until firm. Then put them in the approximately 2g gel Ian gum
everything into 2mm cubes. Briefly Thermomix again and mix them until Salt, pepper, sugar
saute the vegetable with the olives they are fine. Lastly, season them with
in some vegetable oil in a hot pan. salt, sugar and cayenne pepper and Remove the core from the pepper
Then add the couscous and cook until pass them through a fine strainer. and chop the pepper finely. Then sau­
creamy with the lamb jus and some te in a very hot pot, add vodka and
butter. If needed, add some more allow to liquid to completely boil
chicken stock. Finally, add parsley and Onion crumble away. Then mix in a Thermomix until
season with salt, pepper and sugar. smooth. Weigh and add 1g agar-agar
1 white onion and 0.5g of gel Ian gum per 100g of
100g flour the mixture and, stirring constantly,
Pearl onions 1 pinch of paprika powder reduce the mixture in a pot until
500ml vegetable oil the mixture has acquired a strong,
10 small pearl onions 60g chopped almonds paprika red colour. Then let it cool,
50ml water Salt, sugar, cinnamon process in the Thermomix again
50ml white balsamic vinegar until fine and season with salt, pepper
50g sugar Peel the onions and slice into thin and sugar.
2g salt rings. Mix the flour and paprika pow­
der, cover the onion rings with the
Peel the pearl onions. Bring the mixture and then deep fry at 160 •c. Garnish
remaining ingredients to the boil and Immediately salt the onion rings
pour over peeled onions. Let them and add a little sugar. Then lightly 24 red mini paprika drops (ready­
stand for 12 hours. Then cut the pearl roast the chopped almonds in the made product ) lightly warmed
onions in half lengthwise and sear oven at 200 •c. Chop the deep-fried 8 traditional pommes soufflees
them with a culinary torch. Remove onion rings finely. Mix them with the 8 affilla cress tips
the skins from the pearl onions, with­ almonds and season them with salt, 10ml coriander oil (see page 348)
out damaging the seared side. Select sugar and a pinch of cinnamon.
the most attractive pearl onions skins.

184
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185
MENU
IV

DISH VII

WILD
STRAWBERRIES
PLUM WINE
GREEN SHISO SORBET
CRISPS

Crispy strings

Green shiso sorbet

Plum wine foam

Strawberry soup

Wild strawberries

186

187
DISH VII

WILD STRAWBERRIES
PLUM WINE I GREEN SHISO SORBET I CRISPS

Green shiso sorbet Plum wine foam

175 ml water 150 ml plum wine


150 g coconut milk 10 g sugar
90 g sugar 17 g lime juice
2.5 g Super Neut rose 1 ½ leaves of gelatine, softened and squeezed
40 g plum wine 20 g Proespuma Hot
22.5 g yuzu juice 1 tbsp Xanthazoon
15 g green shiso leaves
Boil up the plum wine with sugar and lime juice.
Heat up the water and the coconut milk in the Dissolve the gelatine in this and stir to cool in an
Thermomix to 45 'C. Mix the sugar and Super Neu- iced water bath. Slowly mix in the Proespuma
trose and add to the coconut and water mixture. and Xanthazoon into the mixture, avoiding lumps.
Raise the temperature in the Thermomix to 80 'C. Put the mixture into an iSi-Siphon and load with 2
Meanwhile, add the plum wine and yuzu juice. Once gas capsules. Refrigerate for at least 6 hours
80 'C is reached, freeze the mixture with the green before use.
shiso leaves in a Pacojet container. Then repeatedly
alternate pacotizing and refreezing the sorbet.
Repeat the procedure until the green shiso leaf Crispy strings
pieces are no longer recognisable. Before serving,
freeze the prepared sorbet again for at least 12 50 g kataifi pastry
hours and, if necessary, pacotize. 2 tbsp clarified butter
½ tbsp powdered sugar
½ espresso spoon of light sesame seeds, toasted
Strawberry stock ½ espresso spoon of dark sesame seeds

30ml water Spread out the pastry on a 15-18 cm long Silpat


30 g sugar mat. Cover it with a little butter and lightly sift icing
500 g frozen strawberries sugar onto it. Bake it in a preheated oven at 150 'C
25 g strawberry syrup (Monin) for about 5 minutes until golden. Remove it from
1 vanilla pod the oven, brush it with the remaining butter and
1 g xanthan gum sprinkle the sesame seeds onto it.

Boil water and sugar to produce simple syrup. Then


marinade the frozen strawberries with the simple Garnish
syrup, strawberry syrup and vanilla bean and
pour them into a deep tray. Cover everything with 3 dishes of fresh wild strawberries
aluminium foil and put the tray into the oven at 1 cornflower blossom
120 ·c for 1 hour. Then pour into a cloth strainer 1 marigold
and let it drain for at least 12 hours. Thicken the 1 pack of green shiso cress
resulting stock with xanthan gum.
MENU
IV

TO SERVE

Arrange the wild strawberries in the shape of a star


in a deep dish and pour the strawberry stock over
them. Put the plum wine foam over the wild straw­
berries and place the shiso sorbet on top. Lay
the crispy strings on the plate and decorate the
dish with flowers and cress.

188
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189
MENU
IV

DISH VI 11

COCONUT YUZU
ICE CREAM
VITAMIN-RICH BERRIES

Banana cream Mango


Coconut Mangosteens
Coconut crisps Melon
Coconut yuzu ice cream Multivitamin ice pearls
Dragon fruit, red & white Passion fruit cream with coconut coating
Exotic fruit gel Passion fruit crisps
Kiwi Passion fruit macaroons
Kumquats Pineapple spheres
Lime financier Yoghurt sponge

190

191
BAU.STEINE DISH VIII

Exotic fruits: mango, mangosteens and


dragon fruit are some of Christian Bau's
greatest passions. The complexity of their
aromas and textures provides the perfect
interplay of fruitiness and tartness. Here
he combines a vast array of the fruity and
the exotic, optimally ripe micro-elements
to create a signature dish. They are the
quintessence of his cuisine displayed in just
a tiny space: focus on ingredients, perfect
craftsmanship and boundless complexity.
Around 40 different steps are required
before the dish can be served - and that's
just the part related to serving itself. At
home, you'll just have to console yourself
with a perfect coconut yuzu ice cream, a
passion fruit cream that can be used any­
where and a gel made of exotic fruits, until
your next visit to Schloss Berg.
MENU
IV

Passion fruit cream Exotic gel Coconut yuzu


ice cream

520g passion fruit puree 200g pineapple juice 560g coconut puree
160g sugar 100g pineapple puree 440g milk
270g butter 100g mango puree 50 g glucose syrup
240g egg yolks 50g coconut puree 50g coconut flakes, toasted
120g egg whites 50g brown sugar 160g sugar
8 gelatine leaves Pulp from ½ vanilla pod 40g coconut liqueur (batida de coco)
6g agar-agar 100g egg yolks
Heat the passion fruit puree, the sugar and the 6g gellan gum 10g yuzu flavour
butter to 8o·c in the Thermomix. Add egg yolks and 40ml yuzu juice
egg whites and make a rose out of it. Soak the Bring all ingredients to the boil and boil them for 1
gelatine in ice-cold water and then add the gelatine minute. Pour the mixture onto a tray and then allow Bring the coconut puree, milk, glucose and coco­
to the egg mixture. Fill the mixture into 2.3 x 2.3cm it to cool. Then mix it in Thermomix until smooth. nut flakes to the boil, cover and let it stand for
silicon moulds, smooth out the top of it with a 12 hours. Then strain the flavoured milk and emulsify
palette knife and freeze it in a blast freezer. Allow it with sugar, batida de coco and the egg yolks.
it to become firm and then carefully remove it from Then add yuzu flavour and yuzu juice, fill them
the mould. (Note: this mixture is enough for about into 2 Pacojet containers and freeze. Pacotize as
2 mats, a total of 108 pieces) required.

Coconut coating

840ml coconut milk


40ml coconut liqueur (batida de coco)
160g sugar
48 g vegetable gelatine (Sosa)

Bring all ingredients to the boil. Push a toothpick


into the centre of the passion fruit cubes and,
while still frozen, dip them carefully into the co­
conut coating. Then let the cubes defrost. Remove
the tooth pick, once the cubes have defrosted.
Ensure that no yellow edges are visible through the
coating.

192
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193
DISH VIII

COCONUT YUZU ICE CREAM


VITAMIN-RICH FRUITS IN TEXTURE

Passion
- fr uit cream
------- PAGE
_E_xo_ t_ ic_ �ge_ _l __ Yoghurt sponge
193 PAGE 193

300g egg whites


_Co _ n_ _u_t_c _o_a_ti _n.=g __
_ c_ o PAGE 193
Kumquats 62g ground almonds
60g Yopol
500g kumquats 60g sugar
Pineap p le drops 350ml water 20g flour
350g fresh orange juice
140ml pineapple juice 350g sugar Mix all ingredients and blend at level
330g pineapple puree ½ vanilla pod (pulp and pod) 10 in the Thermomix for 4 minutes.
40g coconut liqueur (batida de coco) 1 bay leaf Put the mixture into an iSi-Siphon,
The pulp of 1 vanilla pod ½ cinnamon stick load with 4 gas cartridges and refri­
4g xanthan gum 4 cloves gerate for 12 hours. Then fill plastic
Zest of 1 unwaxed lemon cups to about a quarter with the mix­
Mix all ingredients in the Thermomix, ture and cook in the microwave for 30
without letting in air, until everything Cook the kumquats for about 1 min- seconds at 1200 Watts. Remove, cool
is smooth. Fill the mixture into 3cm ute until they are soft and then shock briefly and eject from the cups.
diameter hemispherical silicon moulds, them in iced water. Cut the ends (Note: this batter is enough for 5 cups)
smooth out the top of it with a palette straight so that the kumquats can Break the sponge into small, light
knife. Then, freeze in a blast freezer. stand on them. Then cut in half, dia- pieces and dry them in the oven at
Allow it to become firm and then gonally and remove the core. Bring 50·c for about 12 hours.
carefully remove it from the mould. the remaining ingredients to the boil
(Note: this mixture is enough for and pour them over the sliced kum­
about 2 mats, a total of 104 pieces) quats. Fill into a vacuum bag. Drain, _C _o_c_o _n u
_ _t�y_uz_ u_ic_ec_ _ r_e_a_ m__ PAGE 193
if required and arrange.

Pineapple coating Mul tivitamin ice pearls


Lime fin ancier
600ml water 300g passion fruit puree
320g lime juice 190 g egg whites 325g pineapple puree
3g Citras 240g icing sugar 75ml glucose syrup
80g sugar Zest of 4 unwaxed limes 125ml orange juice
75g vegetable gelatine (Sosa) 120g ground almonds 140 g lime juice
100g flour 10g grenadine (Monin)
Bring all ingredients to the boil. 240g butter, lukewarm 250 g sugar
Push a toothpick into the centre of ¼ cinnamon stick
the pineapple drops and, while still Use a mixer to whip the egg whites 3 gelatine leaves, softened and
frozen, dip them carefully into the and the icing sugar. Mix the lime zest squeezed
pineapple coating. Then let the drops with the ground almonds and flour
defrost. Remove the tooth pick once and fold them into the whipped eggs. Bring all the ingredients except the
defrosted. Then stir in the butter. Spread the gelatine to the boil. Remove the
mixture on a deep 25 x 30cm tray cinnamon and finely puree everything
and bake until golden brown at 180•c in a Thermomix at 50•c. Strain and
for 25-30 minutes. dissolve the gelatine in the mixture.
Using a spray bottle, trickle the multi­
vitamin mixture into liquid nitrogen
in order to make the pearls. Then
with a skimmer carefully remove the
pearls, place them on a plate and
freeze until needed.
MENU
IV

Banana cream Spray chocolate Passion fruit crisps


100 g white couverture chocolate
TO SERVE
Crunchy crust 75g cocoa butter 125g passion fruit puree
50 g praline dough A few drops of green, oil-soluble food 50 g glucose
20g milk chocolate couverture colouring 150ml liquid butter Cut out the financier with a ring
12g chopped caramelised almonds 100 g icing sugar (3.5cm diameter) and place it in the
12g Eclat d'Or (crepe wafers) Mix the couverture with the cocoa 150g flour centre. Place the grated coconut
butter and temper. Colour it with 150g egg whites on the kumquats and place them op­
Mix the praline dough and the cou­ the food colouring until the desired posite each other, the same distance
verture chocolate and temper the colour is reached and then put it into Mix all the ingredients and spread from the ring. Likewise, place the
mixture. Fold in the almonds and the an airbrush pistol. Spray the frozen thinly on a Silpat mat. Bake until drops and the cubes opposite each
Eclat d'Or and spread out about 2 mm banana hemispheres evenly. Before golden at 160 ·c, then store in a cool other, the same distance from the
thin on a tray covered with baking serving, remove the toothpick and place. (Note: this mixture is enough financier. Then place the banana
paper. Allow the crust to cool in the garnish the hemispheres with the for about 3 Silpat mats.) cream half moons on the plate and
refrigerator and then freeze it. While exotic gel and gold leaves. arrange the fruit in a circle around the
frozen, cut out with a ring (2.5cm ring and the crunchy elements inside
diameter) and keep it frozen until use. Garnish the ring. Fill the gap between the
Coco crisps financier and the fruit with the multi­
32 balls each of melon, dragon fruit vitamin ice pearls and the exotic gel.
Cream 1 coconut and mango, prepared using a melon Place a quenelle of the coconut yuzu
90ml cream Simple syrup baller ice cream on the financier. Garnish
75g banana puree 40 balls each of melon, dragon fruit with freshly grated coconut, cress
1 g banana flavour Break open the coconut and remove and mango, prepared using a ball and gold leaf.
115g white couverture chocolate the hard shell. Then slice the coconut mould
75g egg yolk into thin slices of about 4cm long 3 fresh mangosteens, peeled and
and bring to the boil in simple syrup. broken into segments
Mix cream, banana puree and banana Then spread them out over sufficient­ 3 tbsp freshy grated coconut
flavour, bring to the boil and mix ly large silicon moulds so that the 1 bowl of atsina cress
with the couverture chocolate in the strips do not overlap and dry them in 2 leaves of gold leaf
Thermomix at 85 ·c. Add egg yolk the oven at 80 ·c for about 12 hours.
at 85 •c and make a rose out of the
mixture. Then fill a terrine form with
the mixture and cook, covered, in a Passion fruit macaroons
bain-marie in the oven at 130 •c for 2
hours. Then allow the mixture to 200ml passion fruit puree
cool thoroughly and reheat in a Ther­ 2 tbsp white balsamic vinegar
momix to 50 ·c. Then fill up silicon 30 g egg white powder
hemispherical moulds (2.5cm in di­ 2 tbsp sugar
ameter), lay the mixture evenly on top 20 g icing sugar
of the frozen crispy base and freeze
for at least 12 hours. While frozen, Whip all ingredients in the mixer until
push a toothpick into the centre of the dough is stiff. Use an icing bag
the flat side and coat it with the spray with a small plain tip (0. 7 cm diameter)
chelate (see right). to create small macaroons on cho­
colate-making foil and dry them in the
dehydrator at 60 ·c for 12 hours.

194
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195
THE
KITCHEN

Albert Camus said, »we should see Sisyphus as a happy


man«. And therefore imagine that the doomed figure
who was forced to roll up a rock up the steepest of
slopes for all eternity was doing so with joy ...
Every Wednesday morning everything begins from
scratch in the Schloss Berg kitchen. In a space smaller
than twenty-five square metres spread around the large
oven in the middle, ten chefs are at their posts. They're
concentrating on cutting precise chunks of tuna belly
to make tartare, removing miniscule blood vessels from
goose livers, vacuum-sealing razor clams with vinai­
grette, searing tiny onions, marinating cucumber pearls,
shelling brown crabs, trimming saddle of lamb, roasting
lobster, preparing bouillons, clarifying stocks, stirring
vinaigrettes, deep-frying potato puffs, glazing frozen
mozzarella pearls, filling fruit purees into spray cans,

196

197
drying edible caramel paper ... there are hundreds, thou­
sands, even tens of thousand of hand movements. At the
serving counter there are two waiters polishing plates
and in the background a dishwasher is peeling shallots.
Everything has to be ready by 5 p.m., and everything
else that has already been prepared is hidden away in
drawers, cupboards, pots, boxes and bottles. The grill is
scoured with steel wool and all around the worktops are
shining. Christian Bau tests every stock and every vin­
aigrette, nods his head approvingly or gives advice on
what's missing, then the storm begins ...
»Cooking at the very highest level«, as Eckart Witzig­
mann said once, »is like driving a Formula 1 race twice
a day«: Intense concentration, zero tolerance for failure
and always, always against the clock. There is absolute
calm when the food is arranged on the plate with up to
five chefs working at the same time on the same plate.
Only on rare occasions will a hand tremble a little when
placing a tiny leaf of shiso cress on a miniscule dab of gel.
Christian Bau's authority over his team derives from the
fact that he has an unrivalled command of his craft. He
is able to cook every dish at every post in the kitchen
without exception. In twenty years at Schloss Berg he
has never let a plate leave his kitchen which he hasn't
looked over first. From the first foie-gras macaroon to
the last praline there is one simple rule: »95 % is just not
good enough.«
198
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199
SALMON FROM LOCH DUART [THE BELLY]
OYSTER I KUMQUAT I CUCUMBER

GOOSE LIVER FROM LANDES


ARABICA COFFEE I PIEDMONT HAZELNUT I SOUR CHERRY

SCALLOPS
PUMPKIN I CHICKEN I WHITE TRUFFLE

SEA BASS [IKEJIME]


BBQ-EEL I AUBERGINE I KOJYU VINAIGRETTE

VENDEE GUINEA FOWL


RAZOR CLAMS I SMALL ARTICHOKES I PRESERVED LEMON

FLAT IRON STEAK


CORN STRUCTURES I BLACK GARLIC I ONION

CITRUS FRUITS
GREEK YOGHURT I CANDIED OLIVES I SPONGE

BANANA SPLIT [RELOADED]


BANANA I CREAM I TAHITI VANILLA I CHOCOLATE
MENU
V

DISH I

LOCH DUART
SALMON
[THE BELLY]
OYSTER
KUMQUAT
CUCUMBER

Citrus gel

Cucumber gel

Cucumber ice cream

Cucumber kimchi

Cucumbers

Hijiki

Kimizu

Kumquats

Oyster

Oyster cream

Oyster ice cream

Passe-pierre seaweed

Salmon belly

Salty finger cress

Seaweed chip

Tomato dashi

202

203
BAU.STEINE DISH I

Christian Bau leaves nothing to chance.


Everything is planned, thought through,
considered. In this dish an ostensibly
straightforward product is converted into
a delicacy by giving extraordinary atten­
tion to detail. A rather fatty salmon belly
is marinated in classic style for exactly 25
minutes in coarse-ground salt and brown
sugar. It is then smoked for two minutes,
cooked for 10 minutes in a 40 °C bain-ma­
rie, cooled in iced water for 30 minutes,
flamed for a couple of seconds in a soy
sauce and mirin mixture and then served
in 7 mm slices. In tune with Bau's predilec­
tion for cold sauces, the following tomato
dashi lines the plate: tomato water, light
miso paste, dried shiitake, ginger and co­
riander oil. The texture of the tender, tart
baby pickles serves as contrast to the oily,
smooth fish.
MENU
V

Salmon belly Pickled cucumbers Tomato dashi

1 x 5.5kg Scottish Salmon from Loch Du art 100ml low-salt soy sauce For the stock
100ml mirin
Wash, fillet and debone the salmon in preparation 1 pinch of Kimchi spice mixture 400g ripe, red tomatoes
for cooking. Separate the skin from the remainder 50ml rice vinegar 400g ripe green zebra tomatoes
of the fish. Remove any remaining fat and cut the 4 untreated baby cucumbers 50g light miso paste
fillet lengthwise in half. Store the dorsal portion of 5g basil
the fish in the refrigerator for further use. Mix the soy sauce, mirin, kimchi spice mixture and 5g coriander
rice vinegar. 3g tarragon
Slice 2 baby cucumbers into 8 mm slices. Slice the
For the marinade remaining cucumbers into thin slices. Put them in Puree all the ingredients in the Thermomix and
separate vacuum pouches and vacuum-seal them then hang the out in a cloth strainer. Collect the
200g salt with the stock. liquid.
100g brown sugar for sprinkling

Mix the two ingredients together and marinade the To flavour the tomato dashi
salmon for 25 minutes. Then wash and pat it down
to dry it with a paper towel. Cold smoke the salmon 250g tomato water (see above)
for 2 minutes. Then vacuum seal it to a level of 6 g edamame, dried
40 % and slow-cook it for 10 minutes at 40 ·c in a 3g shiitake mushrooms, dried
bain-marie. Cool it down in ice water for 30 min­ 1g ginger, dried
utes. Remove the salmon from the vacuum pouch 0.25g garlic, dried
and brown it. 0.2g xanthan gum
20ml coriander oil (see page 348)
10ml miso oil (see page 348)
Sauce for searing
Heat all the ingredients to 80 ·c except the xanthan
100ml low-salt soy sauce gum, the coriander and the miso oil. Then cover
50ml mirin and let stand for 1 hour. Strain and bind with the
xanthan gum. Mix the coriander oil and the miso oil
Mix both ingredients and pour over the cooked into a fine-beaded mixture.
salmon until completely moist. Then sear with a
culinary torch in order to lightly caramelise the
mixture. Refrigerate the salmon and before serving.
Portion out into 24 slices, each 7 mm thick.

204
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205
DISH I

LOCH DUART SALMON [THE BELLY]


OYSTER I KUMQUAT I CUCUMBER

Salmon belly Kumquat zests


PAGE 205

250g untreated Kumquats


For the marinade 50ml orange juice
----- - - P
- AGE 205
20ml rice vinegar
10 ml white soy sauce
Sauce for searing 30ml mandarin vinegar
PAGE 205

Make zest out of the kumquat peel and blanche it


until it is al dente. Bring the orange juice, the soy
sauce and the mandarin vinegar to the boil and
10 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) pour over the blanched kumquat zest.

Open the oysters and separate them from the


muscle. Collect the oyster water and strain. Poach Kimizu
the oysters at 42 ·c for 1 minute in the oyster water.
Then debeard and slice the oysters into 3 medal- 75 ml mirin
lions. 64 ml mizkan vinegar
180g egg yolk
Salt, sugar
Tomato dashi
- -----PAGE 205
Thicken the ingredients at 80 ·c in the Thermomix.
Pass through a fine strainer and season to taste
For the stock with salt and sugar.
PAGE 205

Tomato dashi flavouring Citrus gel


PAGE 205

15 g calamansi puree
60g bergamot puree
45 ml fresh yuzu juice
180ml water
30g sugar
4.2 g agar-agar
4.2 g gel Ian gum
1.8 g cassava

Bring all ingredients to the boil and allow a gel to


form. Then use the Thermomix to beat the mixture
into a smooth gel.

Cucumber gel

350ml cucumber juice (whole, washed, untreated


cucumbers, mixed and strained)
20ml rice vinegar
4 g gel Ian gum
4 g agar-agar
Salt, pepper, sugar

Bring all ingredients to the boil and allow a gel to


form. When cold, beat mixture into a smooth gel in
the Thermomix.
MENU
V

Oyster cream Hijiki seaweed Wakame chips

1 shallot cut into brunoise 20g dry hijiki 200g starchy potatoes, boiled
2 tbsp vegetable oil 65ml low-salt soy sauce 200ml water for boiling potatoes
30ml white wine 50ml mirin 20g plucked parsley
75ml dashi 125ml rice vinegar 20g plucked chervil
3 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) 40g sugar 1g wakame seaweed powder
90g creme fraiche 25 ml water
10g chives Mix all the ingredients in the Thermomix at 70 ·c
10g coriander Blanch the hijiki seaweed in water until it is al dente until they are smooth. Pass through a conical
1 stalk of parsley and then drain. Bring the soy sauce, the mirin, the strainer. Spread the mixture thinly on a silicon mat
Agar-agar rice vinegar, the sugar and the water to the boil and and dry in the dehydrator for 12 hours. Then break
Gellan gum pour over the hijiki seaweed. into pieces of the required size.

Saute the shallot until it is translucent, then add


white wine and dashi and reduce. Add the oysters Cucumber ice cream Garnish
and the oyster water and bring to the boil. Then
immediately mix it with the creme fraTche, chives, 25g simple syrup 16 tips of passe-pierre seaweed
coriander and parsley in the Thermomix. Pass 25g Sosa ProSorbet 16 salty fingers
through a conical strainer. Add 1 g of agar-agar 450ml cucumber juice 8 soy sprouts
and 1 g gel Ian gum per 100 ml of the mixture. Bring 135g glucose powder 1 pack daikon cress
the liquid to the boil again with the agar-agar 20ml rice vinegar 8 cucumber flowers
and gellan gum and then let it form a gel. When 25g passion fruit pulp 8 cornabria blossoms
cold, process the mixture into a smooth gel in 5ml champagne vinegar
the Thermomix. 5ml gin
Salt, pepper, sugar
2 sheets of gelatine, softened and squeezed
Pickled cucumbers
PAGE 205 TO SERVE
Mix the simple syrup with the ProSorbet.
With the exception of the gelatine, heat all the in­
Mini cucumber rolls gredients to 45 ·c. Then add the sugar and the ice Place the poached oysters in the middle of the
mixtures. Heat them to 86•c. Finally, dissolve in the plate.
1 untreated cucumber gelatine and leave the mixture to cool in the refrig­ Arrange the slices of salmon belly on them and
75ml dashi (see page 347) erator for at least 3 hours. Stir whilst still cold and garnish with the cucumber kimchi. Then place the
25ml bonito vinegar put in the Pacojet container Pacotize as required. pickled cucumber slices and a cucumber roll on
25ml white soy sauce the plate. Place dabs of citrus gel, cucumber gel,
oyster cream and kimizu on the plate and garnish
Slice the cucumber into 2 mm slices and then cut Oyster pearls with hijiki seaweed, passe-pierre tips, salty fingers,
into 1.5 x 10cm strips. Mix the remaining ingredi­ soy sprouts, kumquat zest, daikon cress and the
ents. Then vacuum-seal the cucumber strips with 100g oyster meat blossoms.
the stock. 100ml oyster water Pour on the tomato dashi and then place a scoop
125g sour cream of cucumber ice cream on the plate. Sprinkle on
1 sheet of gelatine, softened and squeezed the oyster pearls. Finally, place a wakame chip on
top.
Beat the oysters, oyster water and sour cream
in the Thermomix at 50·c to a fine puree. Strain
and dissolve the gelatine in the mixture. Using a
spray bottle, trickle the oyster mixture into liquid
nitrogen in order to make the pearls. Then with a
skimmer carefully remove the pearls, place them
on a plate and freeze until needed.

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DISH II

GOOSE LIVER
FROM LANDES
ARABICA COFFEE
PIEDMONT HAZELNUT
SOUR CHERRY

Cherry gel

Coffee gel

Foie gras terrine

Goose liver ice cream

Piedmont hazelnuts

208

209
DISH 11

GOOSE LIVER FROM LANDES


ARABICA COFFEE I PIEDMONT HAZELNUT I SOUR CHERRY

8 goose liver balls Goose liver ice cream

250 g foie gras terrine (see page 349) 375 ml white port
8 caramelised, whole Piedmont hazelnuts (see page 190 g foie gras terrine (see page 349)
271) dusted with gold powder. 190 g raw goose livers
75 g glucose syrup at 45'
Cut 8 x 20g cubes from the inside of the foie gras 120 ml sweet wine (Jurani;:on)
terrine. Important: Only use whole cubes, don't 60 g egg yolk
stick the side pieces together as otherwise the
structure of the liver will become too soft. Press Reduce the port to 150 ml. Then mix all the ingre­
a caramelised hazelnut into each cube, roll into a dients except the egg yolk in the Thermomix at
smooth ball and refrigerate for 4 hours. As soon 80 ·c. Thicken with the egg yolk. Put two-thirds
as the goose liver balls are cold, stick a toothpick of the mixture in Pacojet container and freeze for
into each ball. 24 hours for later use. Pacotize as required. Use
the remaining third for the goose liver pearls (see
below).
Coffee jelly

225 ml strong coffee Goose liver pearls


90 ml coffee syrup (Monin)
10 g vegetable gelatine 1 sheet of gelatine, softened and squeezed
½ goose liver ice cream (see above)
Reduce the coffee and coffee syrup together to
250 ml and bind them with vegetarian gelatine. Dissolve the gelatine in the goose liver ice cream
Then strain the mixture. Dip the goose liver balls in mixture that should still be warm. Using a spray
the coffee gel and then refrigerate (once you have bottle, trickle it into the liquid nitrogen in order to
coated them with gel, do not remove the tooth­ produce the pearls. Then with a skimmer careful­
picks). ly remove the pearls, place them on a plate and
freeze until needed.

Cherry gel

200 g sour cherry puree


2 g agar-agar
2g gellan gum

Bring the sour cream puree to the boil, bind with


agar-agar and gellan gum, and leave to cool in a
suitable container. Then use the Thermomix to beat
the puree into a smooth gel.
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Coffee and sugar chip

TO SERVE
25 ml water
50 g sugar
12.5 g isomalt Arrange a circle of chopped, caramelised hazelnuts
38 ml glucose syrup at 45• in the upper left-hand corner of the plate. Place a
5 g instant coffee (Nescafe) dab of sour cherry gel in the centre of the caramel­
20 g butter ised hazelnuts and a dash in the lower right-hand
corner. Place a goose liver ball on top. Remove the
Heat the water, sugar, isomalt and glucose syrup toothpick and garnish with cherry gel, half a cara­
to 155 ·c. Remove the mixture from the oven, and melised hazelnut, a sugared coffee chip and a leaf
then stir in the instant coffee until smooth. Pour of honey cress. Then scatter the goose liver pearls
onto a Silpat mat and leave to cool. As soon as the around the liver ball and place a scoop of goose
sugar mixture is cold, break it up and use the Ther­ liver ice cream on the strip of gel in the lower right­
momix to pulverise it. Then sift a thin layer onto the hand corner. Season the ice cream with Maldon salt
Silpat mat, melt at 180 ·c and then allow to cool and then adorn with half a caramelised hazelnut.
again. Store in an airtight, dry location. Break into Serve a slice of toasted brioche on the side.
pieces in the required size when needed.

Garnish

80 g chopped caramelised Piedmont hazelnuts


(see page 349)
16 halved, caramelised Piedmont hazelnuts.
(see page 349)
16 tips honey cress
Maldon salt
Toasted brioche

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DISH 111

SCALLOPS
PUMPKIN
CHICKEN
WHITE TRUFFLE

Alba white truffle

Baby mushrooms

Beech mushrooms

Butternut squash

Chickenjus

Chicken wings

Enoki mushrooms

Hokkaido pumpkin

Pumpkin puree

Pumpkin seed crunch

Pumpkin seed pesto

Scallops

Truffle foam

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213
DISH 111

SCALLOPS
PUMPKIN I CHICKEN I WHITE TRUFFLE

Pumpkin puree

8 live scallops (size 3-4) 500g butternut squash


100g nut butter
Break the scallops out of their shells, wash them 50g brown sugar for sprinkling
thoroughly and soak them in cold water for 30 min­ Salt, pepper
utes. Remove the beard and then soak them again 1 sprig of thyme
for 2 hours. Cover, and refrigerate on dry kitchen
towels. Peel the squash, remove the seeds and place it
in a deep baking tray. Coat it with the nut butter.
Sprinkle brown sugar on it and season it with salt
Chicken and pepper. Then pluck the thyme leaves and
sprinkle them over the squash.
16 chicken wings Cover the tray with aluminium foil and allow the
Salt, pepper pumpkin stew in the oven at 160 ·c for 45 minutes.
1 carrot Pass the pumpkin through a strainer and use the
1 stalk of celery Thermomix to process it into a smooth puree.
500ml vegetable oil

Season the chicken wings with salt and pepper. Pumpkin seed pesto
Clean the carrots and celery. Chop them into
hazelnut-sized cubes and then vacuum-seal them 100g pumpkin seeds
with the chicken wings and the oil. 20g water
Cook in a bain-marie at 85·c for 2 hours. Then 20g sugar
separate the wings at the joint and remove the 20ml pumpkin seed oil
central section from the bone. Refrigerate until you
are ready to serve. Toast the pumpkin seeds in an ungreased Teflon
pan. Meanwhile boil water and sugar at 112 •c and
add the pumpkin seeds. Simmer until the sugar has
caramelised. Then put the pumpkin seeds in the
Thermomix and process them with the pumpkin oil
mix until they are finely ground.
Put the mixture in a Pacojet container and put it
in the freezer for at least 6 hours. Pacotize three
times until needed.
MENU
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Pickled squash Truffle foam Chickenjus

1 butternut squash (1 kg) 100 g peeled shallots 200 ml chicken jus (see page 345)
100ml water 100 g white mushrooms 25 g cold butter
100 ml Melfor vinegar 100 g white part of leek Salt, pepper
100 g sugar 30 g butter
Salt, pepper Reduce the chicken jus by half and add the cold
Peel the pumpkin and use a cold-cut slicing ma­ 150 ml white port butter shortly before serving. Season with salt and
chine to cut 2 mm slices. Cut the slices into 16 75 ml Noilly Prat pepper if necessary.
7.5 x 2.2 cm strips. Out of the remaining squash, cut 400 ml chicken stock (see page 345)
out 16 circles with a 3 cm diameter and 16 wafers, 200 ml cream
of 1.5 cm diameter each. Bring the water, vinegar 12 g white truffles (use the offcuts) Garnish
and sugar to the boil and pour over the pumpkin 1 tsp white truffle oil (top quality)
strips and the wafers. Then cover it and let it stand Nutmeg 48 enoki mushroom caps
for 24 hours. 24 roasted pumpkin seeds
Chop the shallots, the white part of the leeks and 24 slices of finely grated, raw baby mushrooms
the mushrooms into small pieces. Saute the mix­ 35 g finely-grated Alba truffle (see left)
Pumpkin seed crunch ture in foaming butter and then season it with salt 16 leaves of tiny red-veined dock
and pepper. Add white wine and Noilly Prat and re­ 8 cooked Hokkaido pumpkin sections
100 g pumpkin seeds duce. Pour in chicken stock and reduce by a third. 8 heads of affilla cress
2 sheets of brick dough Add the cream and bring once to the boil. Clean
50 g egg white the truffles, peel gently and chop finely. Set the
Icing sugar more attractive part of the truffle aside for garnish.
Salt Then add the finely-chopped truffle and the truffle
oil to the cream mixture. Place it on the edge of
TO SERVE
Cut the pumpkin seeds into fine splinters. Then the stove for 30 minutes on moderate heat. Mix it
cut 3 cm diameter rings out of the brick dough and thoroughly with a hand-held blender. Strain and
coat them with egg white. Scatter the pumpkin season to taste with nutmeg. Season the scallops with salt and pepper and saute
seed strips over it and dust them with icing sugar. for 2 minutes on both sides in a Teflon pan until
Spread out onto a baking tray covered with baking they are translucent. Fry the chicken wings on the
paper. Place another sheet of baking paper on top Beech mushrooms skin side until crispen and place on a warmed plate
and weigh it down with another tray. Bake in the with a scallop.
oven for 8 minutes at 180 ·c until golden-yellow. 20 small white beech mushrooms Place dabs of pumpkin puree on the plate and
Then lightly salt the chips. 20 small brown beech mushrooms garnish the plate with the remaining components.
½ clove of garlic Finally, coat with the truffle foam and chicken jus.
15 g parsley
2 tbsp vegetable oil
Salt, pepper
Butter

Clean the beech mushrooms. Finely chop the


parsley and garlic. Fry off the mushrooms in oil and
season with salt and pepper. Finally, add a little
butter, garlic and parsley.

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DISH IV

SEA BASS
[IKEJIME]
BARBECUED EEL
AUBERGINE
KOJYU VINAIGRETTE

Aubergine
Aubergine foam
Aubergine puree
Barbecued eel
Cucumbers
Kojyu vinaigrette
Okra pods
Pearl onions
Sea bass
Shiso pesto
Spring onion

216

217
BAU.STEINE DISH IV

An update of a Bau classic, an out and out


signature dish. At the heart of this dish is
the barbecued eel, as perfected in the re­
nowned Unagi restaurants in Tokyo: Bar­
becued over glowing charcoals and glazed
with a strong Teriyaki sauce. With its salty
soy glaze, its smoky aniseed scent, its
caramel and honeyed sweetness, the eel
sets off the Breton sea bass, and provides
a contrast to the mild, crisply baked fish
with its juicy, tender white meat. Chris­
tian Bau adds a true Umami bomb to this:
A kojyu vinaigrette, scented with charred
leeks, soy sauce, mirin and mizkan vinegar.
Tapioca pearls provide the bite and cohe­
sion. Chives give the onion freshness to
this baroque dish.
MENU
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Sea bass Barbecued eel Kojyu vinaigrette

1 sea bass ( 3.1-3.3 kg) 1 smoked eel (around 400g) 1 shallot, finely chopped
(lkejime slaughtered) 1 tbsp transglutaminase 50g white part of leek, finely chopped
100ml Japanese leek oil
Note: 1 fish of this size provides 14-16 well-sized Skin the eel, remove bones and separate the meat 50ml mirin
portions. from the fat and oil. Then powder the bony side 50ml mizkan vinegar
with transglutaminase and >glue< it back into its 50ml white soy sauce
Vegetable oil original form. Roll tightly in clingfilm and refriger­ 1 pinch of xanthan gum
50g butter ate the eel for 3 hours. Then cut it into 1cm slices. 10g tapioca pearls
1 sprig of thyme When ready to serve, lay the pieces of eel on a 10g chives, finely chopped
1 sprig of rosemary grate and glaze with the teriyaki glaze (see below).
Salt, pepper Place the eel on a grate over glowing charcoals and Lightly saute the shallots and the leek in 25ml leek
allow it to caramelise gently. oil until colourless. Then add mirin, vinegar and
Scale, clean, fillet and debone the fish. Cut the white soy sauce. Vacuum-seal and let it stand for
kitchen-ready fillets into 70g portions and slice 48 hours. Then strain and bind it with the xanthan
away the skin. Before serving, fry the fish in a bit of Teriyaki glaze gum in order to make the base. Combine the base
oil to make the skin crispy. Then turn over the fish with the remaining leek oil at a ratio of 2:1 ( 2 parts
and flavour it with foamed butter, thyme, rosemary, 25ml mirin liquid, 1 part leek oil) to be able to use it as a vinai­
salt and pepper. The fish should have a core tem­ 25ml sake grette. Finally, boil the tapioca pearls until they are
perature of 42-43 ·c. 200ml chicken stock (see page 3 45) translucent and then, with the chives, stir then into
175 ml low-salt soy sauce the vinaigrette.
50g sugar
Miso paste for searing 1 star anise
15g cornstarch
8 5g light miso paste 2 tbsp honey
17g honey
17ml mirin Reduce the mirin and sake by half. Fill with chicken
8.5g salt stock and soy sauce and then reduce again by a
third. Add the sugar and star anise and let it stand
Mix all the ingredients and refrigerate. Stir up again for 3 0 minutes. Then strain and bind it with starch.
before use. After cooking, coat the fish on the filet Finally, season to taste with honey.
side and caramelise the paste with the culinary
torch.

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DISH IV

SEA BASS [IKEJIME]


BARBECUED EEL I AUBERGINE KOJYU VINAIGRETTE

Sea bass Aubergine mixture


- ---PAGE 219

8 aubergines
Misc paste for searing 8 tbsp olive oil
PAGE 219
Salt, pepper, sugar
8 thyme sprigs
Barbecued eel 8 rosemary sprigs
--- - - -- PAGE 219

Cut the aubergines in half lengthwise and make


Teriyaki glaze diagonal cuts into them. Moisten them with olive
PAGE 219
oil. Season with salt, pepper and sugar, and sprinkle
thyme and rosemary sprigs on every other half
Pickled aubergine aubergine. Then close up the aubergines and wrap
them in aluminium foil. Cook the aubergines at
1 eggplant 250 ·c for 35 minutes. Then scrape the flesh out of
150 ml dashi (see page 347) the aubergines and remove the seeds. Use a cloth
60 ml Shiro dashi sieve to drain the liquid. Then use the Thermomix
20 ml rice vinegar to process it well.
35 ml olive oil
17ml mirin
5 ml lime juice Miso reduction

Cut the aubergines into 12 cm long slices that are 50 g shallots, chopped small
each 7x7 mm thick. Mix the remaining ingredients 1 clove of garlic, crushed
into a marinade and then vacuum-seal them with 50 mushrooms, finely chopped
the aubergine strips. Steam the vacuumed-sealed 100 g misc paste
aubergines at 90 ·c for 11 minutes. Let the vacuum 70 m I sherry vinegar
pouch stand on ice for 24 hours. 200 ml veal jus (see page 344)
1 small sprig of thyme
1 small sprig of rosemary

Saute the shallots, garlic and mushrooms. Then,


add the misc paste and brown lightly. Add sherry
vinegar and reduce. Then fill it up with the veal
jus, a little thyme and rosemary and let it simmer
down to about a half. Lastly, pass through a fine
conical sieve.

Aubergine puree

Aubergine mixture (see above)


Misc reduction (see above)
Salt, pepper, sugar
1 pinch of xanthan gum

Season the aubergine mixture to taste with the


misc reduction, salt, pepper and sugar, and bind
lightly with xanthan gum. Then reduce in a pot to
a third of the weight until the puree is no longer
runny.
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Aubergine foam Okra tempura Shiso pesto

200 g Aubergine puree (see left) 125 g flour 20 green shiso leaves
4 ml lemon juice 250 ml warm water 10 coriander leaves
5 g mustard 7 g yeast 5 mint leaves
2 eggs Salt 2 basil leaves
120 ml grape seed oil 100 g okra pods 2 tbsp white soy sauce
40 ml miso oil (see page 348) Vegetable oil 2 tbsp rice vinegar for sushi
Salt, pepper, sugar 1 tbsp almond semolina
1 pinch of cumin Mix the flour, water, yeast and 1 pinch of salt into a 2 tbsp grape seed oil
dough. Let it sit for about 1 hour. Then cut the okra Salt, sugar
Work the aubergine puree into a foam as described into 1 cm slices and remove the seeds. Then dust
under Vegetable Foam on page 349 and season to them lightly with flour. Coat them with the tempura Mix all the ingredients except the almond semolina
taste with cumin. dough and pre-bake them at 160 •c in oil until they in the mixer and then grind them into a pesto using
have a golden-yellow hue. Before serving, bake the a mortar. Add the grape seed oil and season to
okra at 160 'C in order for the tempura to become taste with salt and sugar.
Pearl onions crisp. Salt whilst still hot.

10 small pearl onions Kojyu vinaigrette


PAGE 219
50 ml water Spring onion
50 ml white balsamic vinegar
50 g sugar 8 fine spring leeks Garnish
2 g salt (preferably Thai baby leek)
1 tbsp vegetable oil 8 nasturtium leaves
Peel the pearl onions. Bring the remaining ingredi- Salt, sugar
ents to the boil and pour over peeled onions. Let 50 ml chicken stock (see page 345)
them stand for 12 hours. Then cut the pearl onions 20 g butter
lengthwise in half and sear them with a culinary
torch. Remove the skins from the pearl onions, Cut the leek into 12 cm slices. Clean and wash
TO SERVE
without damaging the seared side. Select the most them. Saute with a little oil in pan. Season with
attractive pearl onions skins. salt and pepper and then add some chicken stock.
Cover and steam the leek until it is soft. Lastly, Cut out the lightly warmed aubergine strips with a
glaze with butter. cutter and form into a ring. Place on warmed plate.
Red onion Then place a slice of barbecued eel on the plate.
Place dabs of aubergine puree on the plate. Put the
1 red onion Cucumber spirals cucumber spirals and the seared pearl onion skins
Salt, sugar next to them. Place the fish in the middle, the leeks
30 ml red wine vinegar 1 cucumber across the top and the okra tempura on the fish.
Shiso pesto (see right) Fill the aubergine ring with aubergine foam and gar­
Cut the red onions in half and cut a layer of the nish with red onions and nasturtium leaves. Lastly,
onion into 2 mm strips. Season with salt and sugar. Cut the cucumber into 10 cm long by 3 x 3 mm dress with kojyu vinaigrette.
Vacuum-seal the onion strips with the red wine strips, blanch rapidly in salted water and then roll
vinegar and let them stand for about 12 hours. them up. Fill the rolls with shiso pesto.

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DISH V

VENDEE
GUINEA FOWL
RAZOR CLAMS
SMALL ARTICHOKES
PRESERVED LEMONS

Artichoke chips

Artichoke puree

Baby artichokes

Guinea fowl breast

Guinea fowl jus

Herb salad

Preserved lemon

Razor clam salad

Razor clam sauce

Razor clams

222

223
BAU.STEINE DISH V

Bau's golden rule: Poultry needs to be


roasted on the bone! Unless ... a brilliant
colleague convinces him otherwise, as was
the case with the modest and likeable Alex­
andre Couillon from the lie de Noirmout­
ier, just off the Atlantic coast of France.
Then Christian Bau can be persuaded to
cook the outstanding guinea fowl from the
Vendee at 48 °C in a bain-marie and then
to crispen it up in the pan. With outstand­
ing results: in the middle, the breasts end
up being juicy and rosy, the skin is crispy,
and the whole thing is beautifully flavoured
with a foaming thyme butter. It is com­
plemented with razor clams, nutty and
with an iodine mineral flavour, and with
the herby citrus flavours of the shiso vin­
aigrette, with its fine cubes of preserved
lemon and a heavenly, clear jus from a
guinea fowl drumstick. A light and aromat­
ic main course!
MENU
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Guinea fowl breasts Guinea fowl jus Razor clam salad

Guinea fowl Guinea fowl jus Razor clams

2 x 2.3-2.4 kg guinea fowl (with head and claws) 100 g shallots 1 kg razor clams (live, XU
100 g mushrooms 75 ml olive oil
Remove the head and claws from the guinea fowls. 100 g celery 2 parsley stalks
The birds should have been already hung for a good 50 g butter
amount of time. Separate the breasts and legs and 1 tbsp peppercorns, salt Soak the razor clams, then vacuum-seal with olive
trim them to make them ready for cooking. Remove 2 fresh bay leaves oil and parsley and cook at 72 'C for 3 hours 20
any giblets and imperfections from the carcass and 4 guinea fowl legs, trimmed and with bones and minutes in a bain-marie. Then cool down in icy wa­
chop them up into hazelnut-sized pieces for the skin removed ter. Place the clams in a colander. Collect the clam
gravy. Pieces of cleaned guinea fowl (see below) juice and set aside. Then take out the clam meat
50 ml madeira from the shells and cut diagonally into slices.
50 ml Noilly Prat
Guinea fowl breasts 200ml port
750 ml chicken jus (see page 345) Razor clam salad
4 guinea fowl breasts (see above) Xanthan gum
Salt, pepper 250 g sliced razor clams (see above)
250 g salted butter Cut the vegetables to make a mirepoix and saute 100 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)
2 tbsp vegetable oil them lightly in butter. Then add seasoning, add the 1 tsp finely diced preserved lemon
2 tbsp butter diced guinea fowl drumsticks and the remainder of 1 tbsp fine chive roll
1 small sprig of thyme the bird and cook until all the liquid has evaporat­ Salt, pepper
1 small sprig of rosemary ed. Then add the madeira, Noilly Prat and port and
reduce again. Then fill with poultry jus and simmer Mix all ingredients together and bring slowly to
Season the prepared guinea fowl breasts with salt down by a third. Pass the sauce through a fine 50 •c in a pot. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
and pepper and coat them with wafer-thin (1 mm) sieve, season to taste and bind lightly with xanthan
slivers of butter. Shape the breasts and wrap tightly gum.
with clingfilm. Then vacuum-seal and cook at 60"C
for 25 minutes in a bain-marie.
The guinea fowl should have a core temperature of
50-52 •c. Then plunge the vacuum pouch with the
guinea fowl directly into cold water with ice-cubes.
To prepare, put the vacuumed breasts for 1 more
hour in the bain-marie at 48 ·c. Then, when the core
temperature reaches 48 ·c, take the breast out of
the vacuum pouch, season it with salt and pepper,
and crispen the skin in oil. Then baste it in the
foamy thyme and rosemary butter. 224
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225
DISH V

VENDEE GUINEA FOWL


RAZOR CLAMS I SMALL ARTICHOKES I PRESERVED LEMONS

Guinea fowl Baby artichokes


------ PAGE 225

800g tomatoes
Guinea fowl breasts 100 g miso paste
PAGE 225
10g tarragon
Salt, pepper
Guinea fowl jus 8 baby artichokes
PAGE 225
Juice from 3 limes, mixed with 750ml water
50g finely diced shallots
Razor clams 50g diced mushrooms
-- -
----PAGE 225
2 tbsp vegetable oil
70ml white wine
Razor clam salad 50ml Noilly Prat
--------PAGE 225
sugar
10g basil
Clam foam 10g thyme
50g butter
2 shallots
200g butter Mix the tomatoes, miso paste, tarragon and some
100ml Noilly Prat salt and pepper in a Thermomix until the mixture is
100 ml white wine finely mixed. Then leave to strain in a cloth strainer
Clam stock collected from razor clams over night. Store the liquid collected.
(see page 225) Then clean and turn the artichokes and store in
300ml dashi (see page 347) lime water. Saute the shallots and mushrooms
Salt, cayenne pepper in a pot until they become translucent. Add the
artichokes, wine and Noilly Prat. Reduce, fill up
Dice the shallots. Then saute them in 20g but- with tomato water and then bring to the boil. Add
ter until they become translucent and add Noilly salt, pepper, sugar, basil and thyme. Let it stand
Prat and white wine; then boil down to about 100 for about 10 minutes. Then take the artichokes out
ml. Add clam stock and dashi and then boil down of the stock. Separate and leave to cool. Boil down
again to about 200 ml. Then strain and work in the a third of the stock into a syrup. Quarter the arti­
remaining small pieces of butter with a hand-held chokes and glaze and season to taste in a pan with
blender. Season to taste with salt and cayenne the stock reduction and butter.
pepper.

Artichoke chips

2 artichokes
Juice of 1 lime, mixed with water
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
Salt

Clean the artichokes and store them in lime


water. Heat the oil to 140·c. Cut off fine slices of
artichokes with a vegetable slicer and then blanch
them immediately in boiling salted water. Then
cool them briefly in iced-water and then dry them
off. Then deep-fry in the oil until they become
golden-yellow. Season with salt and keep warm.
MENU
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Artichoke puree

TO SERVE
6 large artichokes
Juice from 3 limes, mixed with 750ml water
100 g finely diced shallots 16 thin (3 cm) strips of preserved lemon
100 g diced mushrooms
2 tbsp vegetable oil Warm the razor clams slightly and place them
50ml white wine evenly on the left side of a warmed plate. Arrange
30ml Neilly Prat the warm artichoke puree and the glazed baby
300 ml reduced artichoke stock (see left) artichokes on the right-hand side of the plate.
50ml cream Cut the crisped guinea fowl breast lengthwise in
30g creme fraiche half and place it in the centre of plate. Warm the
Salt, pepper, sugar razor clam mousse and froth it up with a hand-held
blender. Pour the foam onto the razor clams. Put
Clean the artichokes and store them in lime water. the marinated herb salad in small piles on top of
Saute the shallots and mushrooms briefly until they the guinea fowl breast and garnish each breast with
are translucent. Dice and add the artichokes. Then 4 preserved lemon strips and four artichoke chips.
add white wine and Neilly Prat. Reduce the mixture Pour on the hot guinea fowl jus.
and then fill it up with stock and cream. Cook the
artichokes until they become soft. Then mix in
Thermomix until they are finely mixed. Season to
taste with salt, pepper and sugar and pass through
a fine sieve.

Herb salad

½ head of fine green frisee lettuce


1 tbsp parsley tips
1 tbsp chervil tips
1 tsp dill tips
1 tsp fine coriander leaves
10 tarragon tips
½ pack daikon cress
½ pack of red shiso cress
4 leaves of radicchio
50ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)

Mix the tips of the frisee lettuce with the herbs and
the cress. Cut the radicchio lettuce into fine strips
and add it to the mixture. Marinate everything in
the vinaigrette and season to taste.

226
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DISH VI

FLAT IRON
STEAK
CORN STRUCTURES
BLACK GARLIC
0 NION

Baby corns

Beef sauce

Black garlic paste

Corn cobs

Corn foam

Corn Malto

Flat iron steak

Onion crumble

Onion puree

Polenta

Ponzu gel

Short ribs

Small pearl onions


DISH VI

FLAT IRON STEAK


CORN STRUCTURES I BLACK GARLIC I ONION

Short ribs Flat iron steak sieve, bind gently with xanthan gum
and season to taste with salt, pepper
2 L water 1 Wagyu flat iron steak, 1.5-1.8 kg Ode- and sherry vinegar.
200 g seasoning salt ally from Blackmore, Australia)
1 garlic bulb Salt, pepper
1 sprig of thyme Corn foam
1 sprig of rosemary Trim the steak and remove the silver
1 US, boneless short ribs (900-1000g) skin. Then remove the sinews that 50g each shallots, mushrooms, bacon
divide the upper and lower halves 1 tbsp maize germ oil
Stir water, seasoning and flavouring of the meat. The result should be 500g boiled corn
together with no heat and marinate 2 pieces of flat iron steak, both 250ml chicken stock (see page 345)
the meat for 12 hours. Rinse off with weighing 600-700 g. Season with salt 100ml cream
cold water and then dry. Vacuum-seal and pepper and brown on all sides. 1 sprig of thyme
and cook at 72 ·c in a bain-marie for Then 70% vacuum-seal each piece 2 bay leaves
28 hours. Cool down in icy water. Cut separately. Cook at 58 •c for 2 hours Salt, sugar
the meat into 2.4cm cubes and then in a bain-marie. Adjust the cooking 2 eggs
vacuum-seal. Before serving, warm up time to the thickness of the pieces. 6 g mustard
°
for 12 minutes at 57 C in a bain-ma­ Then take the meat out of the pouch 4ml lemon juice
rie. Then fry briefly on all sides. and let it sit in the Hold-o-mat for 120 ml grape seed oil
20 minutes at 64 ·c. After the meat 40 ml miso oil (see page 348)
has been allowed to stand, grill it for Pepper
Barbecue glaze a short amount of time on glowing
charcoals On the Big Green Egg), so Slice shallots, mushrooms and bacon
1.5g white peppercorns that a light crust appears (core tem­ into hazelnut-sized cubes and saute
2.5g coriander seeds perature 55 "C). in oil until they are translucent. Add
1 g aniseed the corn, chicken stock and cream.
0.5g cloves Add thyme and bay leaves and lightly
1 g Szechuan pepper Beef sauce season with salt and sugar. Cover
5g Madras curry the pot with a sheet of baking paper
2. 5g sweet paprika powder 50g each of carrots, shallots, celery, and boil the contents for about 2
1.5g ground caraway and mushrooms hours until they are soft. Then strain.
40 ml red wine vinegar Butter Put the corn in a Pacojet container
100ml soy sauce 500g steak and place the container in the freezer
200g honey 1 tbsp white peppercorns for at least 12 hours. Then Pacotize
6 tbsp chive rolls 1 sprig of thyme at least eight times in order to pro­
1 sprig of rosemary duce a fine corn puree. Weigh off
Grind all the spices in a mortar and 5 crushed cloves of garlic 200g of the resulting puree and then
then gently heat them in a pot over a 400 ml red wine (Cote du Rhone) mix with eggs, mustard and lemon
very low flame. Add red wine vinegar 100ml red port juice in the Thermomix until they
and reduce until almost all the liquid 100ml madeira become fine. Pour in a thin stream of
has disappeared. Add the soy sauce 500 ml veal jus (see page 344) oil. Season to taste with salt, sugar
and simmer gently for 25 minutes. Xanthan gum and pepper and pass through a fine
Then add the honey and simmer for Salt, pepper strainer. Put the mixture into an
a further 30 minutes until a light­ 1 tbsp sherry vinegar XO iSi-Siphon and load with 2 gas cap­
ly-bound glaze has formed. Then pass sules. Store at 65 •c in a bain-marie
the mixture through a very fine sieve Cut the vegetables into hazel­ until needed.
and keep warm. Before serving, coat nut-sized pieces and then brown
the shoulder pieces (see right) and them in a pot with a little butter. Cut
short rib cubes with the warm barbe­ the meat into pieces. Add it to the
cue glaze. Sprinkle the flat iron pieces vegetables and brown. Add seasoning,
with chives and cut into 4 portions. herbs and garlic and brown. Then add
the alcohol and reduce to a third.
Then fill up with the veal jus and
simmer on a very low flame for about
3 hours. Lastly pass through a conical
MENU
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Baby corn minutes on a very low flame until the Onion crumble Corn Malto
mixture separates from the bottom of
8 Baby corn cobs (7 cm) the pot. Next spread out the polenta 1 white onion 20g dried corn
Salt, sugar in a 3cm layer on a mould covered 100g flour Skin of 2 chicken breasts, dried and
Butter for blanching with baking paper and allow to cool 1 pinch of paprika powder finely chopped
30g butter thoroughly. Cut into 2.5cm square 500ml vegetable oil 20g cornflakes
cubes, dust with flour and then brown 60 g chopped almonds 10g Malto
Blanch the corn in well-salted and on all sides in the remaining oil until Salt, sugar, cinnamon 15ml maize germ oil
slightly-sugared water with a little they become golden-brown. Salt, icing sugar
butter until al dente. Then shock in Peel onions and slice into thin rings.
iced water and caramelise gently in a Mix the flour and paprika powder, Chop the dried corn, chicken skin
pan with the butter and a little sugar. Ponzu gel cover the onion rings with the mixture and cornflakes finely. Mix the Malto
Lastly, cut the corn cobs in halves. and then deep fry at 160 ·c. Imme­ with the maize germ oil and then mix
250ml chanponzu diately salt the onion rings and add a with the chopped mixture. Season to
125ml water little sugar. Then roast the chopped taste with salt and icing sugar. Store
Corn 40g sugar almonds in the oven at 200 'C. Chop at 63 ·c in Hold-o-mat until ready to
3g agar-agar the deep-fried onion rings finely, mix use.
1 fresh corn cob 3g gel Ian gum with the almonds and season to taste
30 g butter 1.5g cassava salt, sugar and a pinch of cinnamon.
Salt, sugar Garnish
Mix the ingredients, bring to the boil
Vacuum-seal the corn cob with 15g and allow a gel to form. Then use Caramelised onions 8 affilla cress stems
butter, salt and a little sugar. Then the Thermomix to work the cooled 8 pommes soufflees
steam in the oven at 80 'C for 25 mixture into a smooth gel. 8 white pearl onions
minutes. Shock in iced water. Cut off 10g butter
the corn from the cob and trim into 8 10g sugar
2.5cm squares. Spread each square Onion puree 10ml old balsamic vinegar
with butter. Season with salt and Salt
TO SERVE
sugar and then heat in oven at 200 'C 300g white onions
for 3 minutes. Put the corn squares Salt, sugar Vacuum-seal the pearl onions in their
on the polenta cubes (see right). 30g creme fraiche peel and cook for 3 bursts of 30 Place the sliced flat iron steak in
1 pinch of xanthan gum seconds each until soft. Then cut the the middle of a warmed plate. Place
Cayenne pepper onions in half, remove the peel and the polenta with the corn as well
Polenta lightly caramelise them in a pan. Add as the short ribs, baby corn cobs,
Peel the onions and cut into 5mm balsamic vinegar and season with salt. black garlic and caramelised onions
100g each of shallots and mushrooms strips. Season with salt and sugar and in an attractive arrangement on the
4 tbsp vegetable oil let stand for 20 minutes. Simmer the plate. Lastly add the maize foam and
600ml chicken stock (see page 345) dehydrated onions in the resulting Black garlic paste the Malto. Dab the ponzu gel on the
300ml cream liquid in a pot until they become soft Polenta with Corn. Garnish with affilla
2 thyme sprigs and then cover them with perforated 80g black garlic cress and pommes soufflees and
2 rosemary sprigs baking paper. Then drain the onions 20 g black rice vinegar dress with the hot beef sauce.
Salt, pepper, nutmeg and mix them in the Thermomix with 20 g soy sauce
100g polenta meal creme fraiche and xanthan gum until Salt, sugar
50g flour the mixture is fine. Then pass through
2 tbsp vegetable oil for browning a fine sieve and reduce in a pot until Press the garlic through a fine sieve
firm. Then put them in the Thermomix and then mix with rice garlic and soy
Cut the shallots and mushrooms into again and mix them until they are fine. sauce in the Thermomix for 2 minutes
hazelnut-sized cubes. Saute in a pot Finally, season to taste with salt, cay­ at the highest setting until they are
in 2 tbsp of oil until they become enne pepper and sugar and pass once fine. Pass the mixture through a fine
colourless. Then add chicken stock more through a fine strainer. strainer and season to taste with salt
and cream. Add thyme and rosemary and sugar.
and reduce to 500 ml. Then strain and
season to taste with salt, pepper and
nutmeg. Bring the liquid to the boil,
stir in the polenta and soak for 30-35
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DI SH VI I

CITRUS FRUITS
GREEK YOGHURT
CANDIED OLIVES
SPONGE

Blood orange cream


Blood orange macaroon
Blood orange sorbet
Candied olives
Citrus fruit balls
Kumquats
Mandarin and olive oil sponge
Mandarin gel
Mandarin jelly
Olive oil Malto
Yoghurt cream
Yoghurt lime ice cream
Yoghurt sponge stone

232

233
DISH VII

CITRUS FRUITS
GREEK YOGHURT I CANDIED OLIVES I SPONGE

Candied olives Mandarin and olive oil sponge Blood orange balls

200g pitted Taggiasca olives 3 eggs 260ml blood orange juice


200ml water 150g sugar 120g egg yolk
200g sugar 125ml olive oil 60g egg white
125 mandarin juice 135g butter
Drain the olives and rinse with hot Zest of 1 untreated mandarin orange 80g sugar
water. Then put them in a pot of 190g flour 10 gelatine sheets, softened and
boiling water for 30 seconds in order 5g baking powder squeezed
to remove the oil. Drain and dry off Red food colouring
the olives with paper towels. Bring Separate the eggs and beat the egg
the water and the sugar to the boil to whites with the sugar until firm. Then, Mix the blood orange juice, egg yolk,
produce a simple syrup. Pour over the using a hand-held blender, make an egg white, butter and sugar to 90•c
olives and let it stand. For a period of emulsion out of the egg yolk, olive oil, in the Thermomix. Then add the
10 days pour the hot syrup over the mandarin juice and mandarin zest. gelatine. Divide the mixture into two
olives each day, increasing the sugar Fold the emulsion carefully into the parts and dye one part red. Then put
content by 10 % each time. Finally, firm egg white. Then mix the flour into hemispherical silicon moulds and
drain the sugar away completely. Then and the baking powder together and freeze overnight. Take out the frozen
dice the olives and dry them at 50·c fold the mixture into the whipped hemispheres and stick them together
for 2 days in a dehydrator. egg whites. Put the mixture into a ½ in the two different colours. Store
size food service tray covered with them in the freezer.
baking paper and bake for 5 minutes Stick a toothpick in the middle of the
Blood orange pearls at 190·c in a pre-heated oven. Then balls to make it easier to dip the balls
reduce the temperature to 170·c and into the coating.
500g blood orange puree continue to bake the sponge for 30
5 sheets of gelatine, softened and minutes.
squeezed Allow to cool on a grate and cut out Blood orange coating
Red food colouring the desired size before serving.
180ml water
Bring the blood orange puree to 40g sugar
the boil and dissolve in the gelatine. Yoghurt lime ice cream 13g vegetable gelatine
Dye the blood orange mixture red. 15ml lime juice
Then, using a spray bottle, trickle 750ml milk
the mixture into liquid nitrogen in Zest of 8 untreated limes Bring all the ingredients to the boil
order to make the pearls. Then with a 580g sugar and strain. When a skin has formed on
skimmer carefully remove the pearls, 2g Super Neutrose the jelly, slide to the side with a spoon
place them on a plate and freeze until 750g yoghurt and immerse the blood orange balls
needed. 500g quark three times. Allow the coated blood
200ml lime juice orange balls to thaw out on a tin rack
covered with baking paper. After
Warm the milk and lime zest to 40•c. thawing remove toothpick.
Mix the sugar and Super Neutrose
together and add to the mixture.
Warm the mixture to 86 ·c and then
pass through a conical strainer onto
the yoghurt quark mixture and mix
together. Lastly, add the lime juice.
Pour the mixture in a Pacojet contain­
er and freeze at -18 •c for at least 12
hours. Pacotize it and store in freezer
until required.
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Blood orange macaroons Mandarin gel Olive oil Malto

TO SERVE
220 ml blood orange juice 250g mandarin puree 1 tbsp olive oil
20g sugar 3g agar-agar 10 tbsp Malto
20g icing sugar 3g gel Ian gum Place the mandarin and olive oil
40g egg whites 50g sugar Mix the olive oil with the Malto until a sponge in the middle of the plate,
Red food colouring (powder) fine powder is created. spread the yoghurt cream on top and
Bring all ingredients to the boil. Pour sprinkle with candied olives. Arrange
Whip all the ingredients together and onto a tray and then leave to cool the mandarin jelly, the olive oil Malto,
then dye them pink. Use an icing bag completely. Then mix in Thermomix Citrus fruit-segment balls the kumquats and the blood orange
with a plain nozzle to create small until smooth and strain. Refrigerate balls around the sponge.
macaroons on a mat and dry at 80 ·c until you are ready to serve. 2 blood oranges Place one segment ball on the olive
for 12 hours in the dehydrator. 1 grapefruit oil Malto. Place some dabs of olive
1 orange oil attractively on the plate. Arrange
Yoghurt sponge stones the candied olives and blood orange
Kumquats Peel and fillet the citrus fruit. Dip the pearls. Then put a scoop of the
300g egg white fillets in liquid nitrogen, take them out yoghurt and lime ice cream on the
250g kumquats 62 g almond semolina again and break them into segments. sponge and decorate with blood or-
175 ml water 60g Yopol Then let them thaw and put them into ange macaroons and honey cress.
175ml orange juice 60g sugar hemispherical moulds, freeze and
175g sugar 20g flour stick them together again as whole
½ vanilla pod balls. Keep the balls frozen until
1 bay leaf Mix all ingredients in Thermomix needed.
½ cinnamon stick until smooth. Put the mixture into an
2 cloves iSi-Siphon, load with 4 gas capsules
Zest of ½ untreated lemon and refrigerate for 4 hours. Then Garnish
spray the mixture into a plastic con-
Trim the ends of the kumquats. Cut tainer and cook in the microwave at Honey cress
them in half and remove the seeds. 1000 watts for 55 seconds. Break the
Then blanch the kumquats. Bring cooled mixture into pieces and then
the remaining ingredients to the boil dry at 80 •c in the dehydrator for 12
and pour over the kumquats. Then hours.
vacuum-seal.

Yoghurt cream
Mandarin jelly
250g Greek yoghurt
400 mandarin juice 20g icing sugar
Zest of 1 untreated mandarin orange 5 drops of yuzu aroma
4 sheets of gelatine, softened and 10ml olive oil
squeezed
Suspend the yoghurt for 5 hours in
Bring the mandarin juice with the zest a cloth and then flavour with the
to the boil and strain. Then dissolve remaining ingredients.
in the gelatine and put into prepared
mandarin silicon moulds and freeze.

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MENU
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DISH VI 11

BANANA SPLIT
[RELOADED]
BANANAS
CREAM
TAHI TI VANILLA
CHOCOLATE

Aerated chocolate

Almonds

Banana cookies

Banana cream

Banana gel

Banana sorbet

Bananas

Chocolate cream

Chocolate drops

Chocolate sponge

Muscovado crumble

Vanilla ice cream

236

237
BAU.STEINE DISH VIII

A childhood memory: A soft, ripe banana,


vanilla ice cream, cream and chocolate
sauce in the ice cream parlour next to the
Achern town hall •.. has become an artis­
tic, precision-engineered cluster contain­
ing an incalculable array of details. Banana
savarin, chocolate drops, marinated and
caramelised banana, muscovado sugar
crumble, banana gel, chocolate cream,
gold almonds, chocolate sponge, and aer­
ated chocolate, banana cookies, choco­
late gel and cream, banana pearls ... The
highlight is the ostensibly modest but su­
per-creamy coconut and vanilla ice cream
made in the Pacojet. Just like the classic
cream made from Valrhona chocolate and
the fruity sous-vide banana, the ice cream
is really almost an entire dessert in its own
right.
MENU
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Vacuumed bananas Vanilla ice cream Chocolate cream

200ml banana juice 300ml milk 125ml milk


24g passion fruit puree 200g coconut puree 125ml cream
20g sugar The pulp of 3 vanilla pods 3 7g egg yolk
4g honey 105g cane sugar 25g sugar
Pulp from ½ vanilla pod 0.5g Super Neutrose 112 g dark couverture chocolate
1 banana 120g egg yolk 1.4g xanthan gum

Boil up all the ingredients except the bananas. Heat the milk, coconut puree and vanilla pulp in Bring the milk and cream to the boil and thicken
Leave the resulting juice to cool. Peel the bananas the Thermomix to 40 ·c. Mix the sugar and Super with egg yolk and sugar at 85·c. Add in the cou­
and before serving vacuum-seal with the juice for Neutrose together and heat with the milk to 85•c. verture and then stir until smooth. Spread out the
1 hour. Then thicken it with egg yolk. Put in the Pacojet mixture on a tin and then refrigerate for 24 hours.
container and freeze. Mix the cream with xanthan gum in the Thermo­
Pacotize as required. mix. Then place it in icing bag and refrigerate until
needed.

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DISH VI11

BANANA SPLIT [RELOADED]


BANANA I CREAM I TAHITI VANILLA I CHOCOLATE

Banana mixture Crunchy base

180g cream 75g hazelnut praline


150 ml banana juice 30g milk chocolate
1 g liquid banana aroma (Sosa) 24 g roasted almonds, chopped and roasted
225 g white couverture chocolate 24 g Eclat d'Or (crepe wafers)
150g egg yolk
Melt the hazelnut praline noisette and milk choco-
Bring the cream, the banana juice and the banana late. Add the remaining ingredients and mix them.
aroma to the boil.. Heat the mixture with the white Spread the mixture on baking paper and then
couverture in the Thermomix to 85 •c. Add the refrigerate. Then cut out rings the same size as the
egg yolk to thicken. Pour the mixture into a terrine savarins and lay them on top, ensuring there is no
mould and poach in a bain-marie at 130 ·c for 2 air between them. Press gently and freeze.
hours in the oven. Then refrigerate for 6 hours in
the refrigerator. Mix to 50 •c in the Thermomix and
pour into 6cm diameter silicon savarin moulds,
ensuring that no air enters.
250g dark couverture chocolate
200g cocoa butter
Banana gel
Melt the ingredients in a bain-marie and mix them
250ml banana juice with a hand-held blender. Avoid creating bubbles.
62 g passion fruit puree Then strain the mixture to produce the resulting
31 g sugar spray.
3.25 g agar-agar Put the spray into an airbrush and spray a very fine
3.25g gel Ian gum layer over the frozen savarins. Freeze until ready to
serve.
Bring all the ingredients to the boil and then leave
to cool completely. Then blend in Thermomix until
smooth and strain . Vanilla ice cream
PAGE 239

Muscovado crumble

100g butter
100g flour
50g muscovado sugar
25g cane sugar

Knead all the ingredients into a dough. Crumble the


dough by hand onto a tray. Bake the crumble in the
oven at 180 ·c for 25 minutes.
MENU
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Vacuum-cooked banana Chocolate sponge Gold almonds


--- -- - - --- PAGE 239

15g almond semolina 50g almonds, halved


Chocolate cream 15g sugar 16 g icing sugar
---------
PAGE 239
7g cocoa powder 2 g gold powder
5g flour
Chocolate drops 100g egg white Heat the almonds with the icing sugar slowly in a
pan until the sugar begins to melt. Then, constantly
300ml milk Mix all ingredients in Thermomix for 5 minutes until stirring, keep heating until a gold-brown caramel is
20g sugar smooth. Put the mixture into an iSi-Siphon and load created. Let the almonds cool and then dye them
80 g dark couverture chocolate with 4 gas capsules. Then refrigerate for 4 hours. with the gold powder.
3g xanthan gum Spray into a plastic container and cook in the
microwave at 1000 watts for 55 seconds. Let the
Bring milk and sugar to the boil. Add in the couver- sponge cool. Break it into small pieces and then dry Caramel and banana balls
ture and then stir until they are smooth. Then work it in the oven for 12 minutes at 80 •c.
in the xanthan gum in the Thermomix. Pour the 1 banana
mixture into the 20mm diameter hemispherical sil- Brown sugar
icon moulds and then freeze. Ease the hemispheres Banana cookies
out of the moulds while still frozen and insert a Peel the bananas and with a parisienne scoop. Cut
toothpick. 125g banana puree out 22mm diameter balls. Roll the balls in brown
Freeze until further use. 25g glucose sugar and caramelise with a culinary torch.
75g liquid butter
50g icing sugar
Chocolate covering for the drops 75 flour Garnish
75g egg white
410ml water 1 pack of atsina cress
80g sugar Mix all ingredients in Thermomix for 3 minutes until
25g cocoa powder smooth. Then spread on a Silpat mat and bake at
25g vegetable gelatine 160 •c for 15-20 minutes. Break into pieces of the
required size.
Bring all ingredients to the boil. When a skin has
TO SERVE
formed on the jelly, push it to the side with a spoon
and immerse the deep-frozen hemispheres twice. Banana pearls
Remove the toothpick carefully, and cover and Spread the muscovado crumble in a sickle shape
refrigerate the drops on baking paper. 250 ml banana juice on the plate. Place a banana savarin in the middle
62g passion fruit puree of the sickle and the chocolate drops at either
31 g sugar end. Cut a small 10mm diameter ring out of the
Aerated chocolate 6g honey vacuumed banana and place it on the sickle. Make
3 ¼ sheets of gelatine, softened and squeezed it look nice by placing a few dabs of banana gel and
227g dark couverture chocolate ½ tsp gold powder chocolate cream on the crumble. Then decorate
90ml sunflower oil the sickle with gold almonds, chocolate sponge, a
Bring the banana juice with the passion fruit puree, caramelised banana ball and the aerated chocolate.
Melt the couverture and sunflower oil in a bain-ma- sugar and honey to the boil and dissolve the gela­ Place atsina cress and banana cookies between the
rie. Put the chocolate and oil mixture into a iSi-Si- tine into the mixture. Using a spray bottle, trickle gel and the chocolate cream dabs. Finally, distrib­
phon and charge with 2 soda and 2 cream capsules. the mixture into liquid nitrogen in order to make ute the banana pearls and place a banana cookie
Spray the chocolate and oil mixture in an iced the pearls. Then with a skimmer, carefully remove on the scoop of vanilla ice cream.
vacuum pouch, vacuum and freeze immediately. the pearls, dye with gold powder and keep on a
As soon as the chocolate is frozen, remove from plate in the freezer until needed.
vacuum pouch and portion into desired size.

240
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SERVICE

Effortless. That's how it should seem, everything that


comes from the kitchen. Casually conjured up on the
plate, easy as can be. And so it must be presented to the
guest as if the chef made the dish by chance, extreme­
ly laid back. Conversation should not be disturbed.
There should be no scent of awe wafting through the
restaurant. Just ease, cheerfulness and pleasure. »Here
we have a fine Gambero« says Yildiz Bau, smiling, she
takes a plate from colleague's tray and places it before
the guest. With a light hand but positioned precisely to
the millimetre. On this are, among other things, baked
shellfish, a sweetheart cabbage and langoustine roulade,
a Gamberoni tartare, Thai curry cream, yam roots and a
complex bergamot sauce. Many days work and eaten in
just a few moments. But what moments they are ...

242

243
»I want to make our customers happy« Yildiz Bau says,
»they should go home happy!«. Happy and content - not
lectured. You won't get any didactic lectures from her.
But you will get the same consistency and the same
perfectionism as from her husband. The Baus see their
restaurant as a total work of art. So they set the high­
est standards in precision for service and demand the
utmost concentration. The guest should not notice any
of this.
Service in >Victor's Fine Dining< reminds one of a well
managed ballet company. In other places, staff short­
ages may be concealed by entertainers and short-term
staff but there's a professionally choreographed pro­
duction to marvel at in the Bau's kitchen. A production
which starts with what you don't see; empty places, for
example. Every afternoon the stage is set, with the exact
number of chairs set out for the amount of guests in the
evening. Everything is polished until it shines. The pro­
duction begins with the entry of the first guests and the
first oshibori (hot towel) of the evening. And it doesn't
finish until the last visitor has glided happily from the
building. And nothing that happens in between is hap­
hazard or improvised, not the time when the apertif is
served or the menu is presented, not the wording with
which the dishes are announced, nor the manner with
which the plates and bowls are laid before the guest, nor
the routes which the staff take through the restaurant.
Everything is taken into account; there no half-empty
water glasses or dropped napkins left on the floor. Even
if the air is burning in the kitchen, out here, nobody
hurries, no smile slips; there is all the time in the world.
It's like in the circus; the dangerous somersault has to
come across coolly and calmly.
244
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>MEMORIES OF JAPAN<
SEAFOOD I PONZU I RED SHISO

JAPANESE YELLOWFIN MACKEREL [SASHIMI]


YUZUKOSHO I BUTTERMILK DASHI I IMPERIAL CAVIAR

BLUE LOBSTER
CARROTS I CALAMANSI I COMBAVA OIL I CORIANDER BISQUE

ZANDER
GREEN VEGETABLES I PEARL ONIONS I FOAMED DASH!

THE BEST OF VEAL


DIM SUM I HAZELNUT I ALBA WHITE TRUFFLE

WILD HARE FROM THE SOLOGNE


HEART OF PALM I ASIAN BROCCOLI I PURPLE CURRY

>JAPANESE MOMENT<
MATCHA TEA I LYCHEE I GREEN SHISO

>BAU.STEIN<
TONKA BEAN I PEAR I RED WINE
MENU
VI

DISH I

>MEMORIES OF
JAPAN<
SEAFOOD
PONZU
RED SHISO

Abalone

Amaebi shrimps

Cockles

Enoki mushrooms

Oyster cream

Oyster ice cream

Oyster tapioca

Oysters

Passe-pierre seaweed

Ponzu foam

Razor clams

Red shiso sorbet

Tapioca chip

Yellowfin tuna

248

249
BAU.STEINE DISH I

Christian Bau's cuisine specialises in find­


ing the best fish and seafood products in
the oceans of the world. In his now classic
Memories of Japan he converts a cornu­
copia of tender razor clams and cockles,
nutty abalone and sweet amaebi shrimps,
cubes of buttery yellowfin tuna, Gillardeau
oysters and the tips of passe-pierre sea­
weed into a spectacular collage of the most
varied of textures and maritime aromas:
purist and highly complex at the same
time. Accompanied by a fresh citrus ponzu
foam and a flavourful shiso cress sorbet,
the lightly poached oysters provide a ele­
gant way into this elaborate miniature.
MENU
VI

Oysters Ponzu foam Red shiso sorbet

8 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) 80g orange fillets 75g sugar


120ml dashi (see page 347) 4.5 g Super Neutrose
Open the oysters and separate them from the 50ml chanponzu 22 g glucose powder
muscle. Collect the oyster water and strain. Poach 20ml yuzu juice 260ml water
the oysters at 42 •c for 1 minute in the oyster water. 8 g sugar 70 ml lime juice
Then remove beard and cut the oysters in half. 2.5 sheets of gelatine, softened and squeezed 35 ml yuzu juice
6 packs of red shiso cress
Bring the orange fillets and the dashi to the boil
and then reduce the strain liquid to 80 g. Add the Mix sugar, Super Neutrose and glucose together.
chanponzu, yuzu juice and sugar and dissolve the Bring the water to 45 •c and trickle in the sugar
gelatine into it. Put into an iSi-Siphon and load with mixture. Heat to 86 ·c and then strain. Add the
2 gas capsules. Thoroughly chill in icy water for citrus juices and then let stand for 3 hours at 40·c.
6 hours. Bring to correct temperature with hot Then mix in the shiso cress and freeze overnight in
water before serving. a Pacojet container. Pacotize several times to
create an even mixture. Freeze until needed. If
necessary pacotize again.

250
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251
DI SH I

>MEMORIES OF JAPAN<
SEAFOOD I PONZU I RED SHISO

Oyster tapioca Abalone

60 g tapioca pearls 2 large, live abalones


3 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) 2 tbsp dashi (see page 347)
1 tbsp finely-chopped spring onions 1 tbsp white soy sauce
1 tbsp garlic oil (see page 348) 5g kombu
1 tbsp ginger oil (see page 348)
2 tbsp enoki mushrooms, 3 cm heads Cut the abalones from their shells, wash, clean
1 tbsp finely-chopped chives and hit lightly with a tenderiser. Put the other
Salt, pepper ingredients into a vacuum pouch and heat at 72 ·c
in a bain-marie for 12 hours. Then cool off and
Boil the tapioca pearls for 8 minutes in water cut into 1 mm slices.
until soft, then strain and shock. Open the oyster
and collect the oyster water. Then remove the
beard and muscle from oysters and dice. Razor clams
Saute the spring onions with garlic and ginger oil.
Add the tapioca, mushrooms and the oyster 6 large razor clams (XXL)
and boil down to a cream. Season to taste with 1 stalk of parsley
chives, salt and pepper. 15 ml olive oil

Vacuum-seal the razor clams with parsley and olive


oil and cook at 72 •c for 3 minutes 20 seconds in
the bain-marie. Release from shell and cut each
clam into 3 equally thick strips.

Cockles

2 tbsp mirepoix (shallots, mushrooms, celery, leek


white)
1 tbsp vegetable oil
16 large cockles
Salt, pepper
1 tbsp Noilly Prat
2 tbsp white wine

Saute the mirepoix in oil, add the cockles and


season with salt and pepper. Add Noilly Prat and
white wine, bring rapidly to the boil once, cov-
er and let stand until the cockles have opened
completely. Shell the cockles and then refrigerate
in the strained stock.
MENU
VI

Oysters Liquid marinade 2


PAGE 251
TO SERVE
85 ml white soy sauce
Ponzu Foam 30 ml dashi (see page 347)
PAGE 251
10 ml bergamot juice First, marinade razor pods and cockles in shiso
10 ml bonito vinegar vinaigrette and chives. Then marinade the abalones
Red shiso sorbet 0.875 g xanthan gum and the amaebi shrimps with lemon vinaigrette
-------- PAGE 251
63 ml miso oil and sea salt. Lastly marinate the tuna dice with
150 ml sunflower oil >liquid marinade 2<. Before arranging the abalone,
Oyster cream heat under the heat lamp, but keep the other
Mix the soy sauce, dashi, bergamot juice and the elements chilled until served.
1 shallot cut into brunoise bonito flakes and bind with a little xanthan gum. Place the tepid oyster tapioca in the middle of the
Vegetable oil Strain the mixture through a sieve. Then mix in the plate. Then, for every 2 halved oysters, arrange
30 ml white wine oils, stirring constantly. amaebi shrimps, tuna dice, razor pods and cockles
75 ml dashi (see page 347) on top. Then set out the tepid abalone and spray
3 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) the ponzu foam and oyster cream. Garnish the dish
90 g creme fraTche Tapioca chip with enoki mushrooms, passe-pierre seaweed,
10g chives borage cress and red shiso cress.
10 g coriander 50 g tapioca pearls Lastly, place a little shiso sorbet on top, decorate
1 stalk of parsley Salt with a tapioca chip and sprinkle oyster pearls.
Agar-agar 1 tbsp dashi (see page 347)
Gel Ian gum Palm fat for deep-frying

Saute the shallot until translucent, then add white Boil the tapioca pearls for 12 minutes in salty
wine and dashi and reduce. Open the oysters, water, drain and then mix with the dashi. Then
then bring to the boil once in oyster water. Then lay out the mixture on a Silpat mat. Occasionally
immediately mix it with the creme fraTche, chives, turning, dry in the dehydrator for 4 hours and
coriander and parsley in the Thermomix. Pass then bake in 180 °C fat. Keep warm and dry until
through a conical strainer. Add 1 g agar-agar and 1 g required. Break into pieces of the required size.
gellan gum per 100 ml mixture.
Bring the liquid to the boil again with the agar-agar
and gellan gum and then let it form a gel. When Garnish
cold, beat mixture into a smooth gel in the Ther-
momix. 100 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)
50 g chives, finely chopped
16 ready-to-serve amaebi shrimps
Oyster pearls 50 ml lemon vinaigrette (see page 348)
Sea salt
100 g oyster meat 16 cubes of yellow/in tuna (1 cm square)
100 ml oyster water 40 enoki mushrooms, 3cm long caps
125 g sour cream 40 passe-pierre seaweed tips
1 sheet of gelatine, softened and squeezed 8 tips of borage cress
Liquid nitrogen 8 tips of red shiso cress

Beat the oysters, oyster water and sour cream


in the Thermomix at 50 °C to a fine puree. Strain
and dissolve the gelatine in the mixture. Using a
spray bottle, trickle the oyster mixture into liquid
nitrogen in order to make the pearls. Then with
a skimmer carefully remove the pearls, place them
on a plate and freeze until needed.

252
I
253
DISH II

JAPANESE
YELLOWFIN
MACKEREL
[SASH I Ml]
YUZUKOSHO
BUTTERMILK DASHI
IMPERIAL CAVIAR

Buttermilk dashi

Caviar

Cucumber kimchi

Yellowfin mackerel

Yuzukosho
DI SH 11

JAPANESE YELLOWFIN MACKEREL [SASH I Ml]


YUZUKOSHO I BUTTERMILK DASHI I IMPERIAL CAVIAR

Yellowfin mackerel Liquid marinade 2

1 x 4.2 kg (gross) fillet of prepared yellowfin mack­ 85 ml white soy sauce


erel 30 ml dashi (see page 347)
10 ml bergamot juice
Cut the filet lengthwise in half and remove the 10 ml bonito vinegar
bones. Then remove the skin from belly, separate 0.875 g xanthan gum
the blubber and cut into shape. 63 ml miso oil
150 ml sunflower oil

Liquid marinade 1 Mix the soy sauce, dashi, bergamot juice and the
bonito flakes and bind with a little xanthan gum.
25 g ginger Strain the mixture through a sieve. Then mix in the
30 g lemon grass oils, stirring constantly.
2 g kaffir lime leaves For each portion, marinate, 2 slices of back and
2 g salt 1 slice of belly in liquid marinade number 2. Cover
350ml water in clingfilm and refrigerate until ready to serve.
1 tsp rice vinegar

Peel the ginger and cut it into small pieces. Beat Fermented ginger
the lemon grass and then it chop finely. Heat
the lemon grass, kaffir lime leaves, salt and water 50 g ginger
at 80 °C in a pot. Then cover with clingfilm and let 5 g salt
it stand for 1 hour. Then strain, pour in rice vinegar 75 ml rice vinegar
and refrigerate. 50 g sugar
Vacuum-seal the fish fillets in the liquid marinade
1 and marinate for 2 hours. Then remove from mari- Peel the ginger and slice it into wafer-thin slices.
nade and dab dry. Then salt it and place it in a sieve and strain for
Cut both the belly and the back into 7 mm slices. 1.5 hours. Bring the rice vinegar and sugar to the
A total of 24 evenly-cut slices are needed. boil and then pour over the pressed ginger. Cover
and store at room temperature for 48 hours.

Yuzukosho

4 bay leeks, cleaned


Butter
Salt, sugar
50 ml vegetable stock (see page 344)
24 g Yuzukosho
14 g fermented ginger (see above)

Fry up the baby leek in foaming butter, season with


salt and sugar and then braise in vegetable stock
in the oven. Then remove the outside skin and
immediately shock in a blast freezer in order to keep
the colour. Lastly, chop the leek finely and mix
42 g with yuzukosho and fermented ginger. Season
to taste with salt and sugar.
MENU
VI

Buttermilk dashi

TO SERVE
500g buttermilk

For the whey, freeze the buttermilk and let it thaw Place the yellowfin mackerel in the middle of the
out on a cloth strainer. plate. Set the yuzukosh6 on the middle of the fish.
Collect the clear strained butter milk whey. Flavour Arrange the cucumber kimchi and the caviar
the 200ml clear butter milk whey as follows: at intervals around the outside of the fish. Garnish
with chives.
Lastly, pour the buttermilk-dashi and oil mixture
Flavouring of buttermilk whey around the fish.
8g Kombu
6g edamame, dried
1g Shiitake mushrooms, dried
1.5g ginger, dried
1 g garlic, dried
0.2 g xanthan gum
20ml dill oil (see page 348)
10ml miso oil (see page 348)

Heat the whey together with the flavouring to 80•c


and let stand for 1 hour. Then strain and bind with
xanthan gum. Before serving, mix the dill oil and
miso oil into a fine-beaded emulsion and pour into
buttermilk dashi.

Cucumber kimchi

2 baby cucumbers
2g salt
20ml reduced-salt soy sauce
20ml mirin
10ml rice vinegar
1 pinch of Kimchi seasoning

Slice the cucumbers finely, salt and then after


30 minutes, squeeze out the liquid.
Make a stock out of soy sauce, mirin, rice vinegar
and kimchi seasoning and vacuum-seal with
cucumber slices. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours
before serving.

Garnish

24 x 1 g mounds of yuzukosh6
24 slices of cucumber kimchi
24 2g caviar piles (Osietra imperial caviar)
24 blades of chives
24 chive tips

256
I
257
DISH 111

BLUE
LOBSTER
CARROTS
CALAMANSI
COMBAVA OIL
CORIANDER BISQUE

Calamansi gel

Carrot puree

Carrots

Combava vinaigrette

Coriander

Lobster

Lobster bisque

Lobster jus

Pointed cabbage sushi


BAU.STEINE DISH Ill

Complex, highly aromatic sauces are the


basis of Bau's cuisine - classic French foun­
dations with Asian influences. His take on
the classic lobster bisque is as elaborate
as it is opulent: roasted shells, tomatoes,
mushrooms, white port, Neilly Prat, co­
gnac, butter, cream, double cream. In the
style of the old masters, but highly con­
temporary at the same time, foamed up as
light as a feather and given that extra scent
with a few drops of lime oil - the powerful
essence of the Breton lobster with fresh
citrus overtones. Always the purist, Bau
first steams and then poaches the Breton
lobster in butter, which brings out its fla­
vour perfectly. When Bau took his master
examination in the Brenners Park Hotel,
he lost some marks as he refused to put
caraway seeds in the water.
MENU
VI

Blue lobster Combava oil Lobster bisque

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. 1. .:

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..,t '.: .• �.
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4 x 500-550g Breton lobsters 2 untreated kaffir limes (Combava) 50ml olive oil
Poaching stock (see page 262) 100ml grape seed oil 150g butter
100g each shallots, carrots, celery
Steam the lobsters at 100 ·c for 3 minutes 20 Grate the kaffir limes with a microplane, ensuring 5 large white mushroom heads, finely chopped
seconds. Then break off the pincers and continue that no white is grated off. Vacuum-seal the zest 50 g fennel, finely-chopped
°
to cook for 8 minutes. Shock in icy water, break with the oil and place in bain-marie at 50 C for 2 5 cloves of garlic, crushed
open and clean. hours. Then immediately place it in icy water. After 1 tbsp peppercorns
Before serving, bring the poaching stock to 48 hours sieve the oil and store in a cool dark 1 kg carcass of Breton lobster
48-52 •c and the lobster tails to a 42·c core tem­ place. 8g Roma tomatoes, finely chopped
perature. When the core temperature has been 250ml white port
reached, halve and carve the lobsters lengthwise. 80 ml Noilly Prat
80 ml white wine
100ml cognac
500ml shellfish nage (see page 346)
300ml reduced shellfish jus (see page 346)
200g cream
200g creme double
Salt, cayenne pepper
100g cold butter
1 tbsp finely chopped coriander

Foam up the oil and butter, then braise the finely­


chopped vegetables, garlic and peppercorns until
colourless. Then add the carcasses and cook for
20 minutes, ensuring that nothing sticks to the
bottom of the pot. Add the tomatoes and continue
to cook for 3 more minutes. Add the alcohol and
reduce to a minimum level, pour in the shellfish
nage and shellfish jus and then reduce to 350 ml.
Pour in the cream and double cream, bring to the
boil, then gently simmer over a low heat for 45
minutes. Strain through a fine sieve and season to
taste with salt and cayenne pepper. Serve with
cold butter and coriander.

260
I
261
DISH Ill

BLUE LOBSTER
CARROTS I CALAMANSI I COMBAVA OIL I CORIANDER BISQUE

Blue Lobster Red lobster jus Poaching stock for lobster


PAGE 261

2 kg lobster carcasses 500 ml white wine


White miso varnish 5 white mushrooms 2 L dashi (see page 347)
5 shallots 375 g sweet cream butter, finely­
100 ml white miso paste 1 carrot chopped
100 ml dashi butter (see page 267) ½ celery stalk 375 g salted butter, finely-chopped
½ fennel Salt, sugar, cayenne pepper
Heat up the miso paste with the dashi 1 clove of garlic with peel, halved Lobster tails (see page 261)
butter while stirring continuously. 1 sprig of thyme
After cooking, coat the lobster tails 2 star aniseed Reduce the white wine to a minimum
with the warm varnish (see right) 4 tbsp sunflower oil and fill up with dashi. Then reduce
3 red bell peppers, cleaned until three quarters of the mixture has
3 tomatoes evaporated. Without increasing the
Lobster bisque 400 ml tomato juice heat, add the butter and beat it into
PAGE 261
2 L reduced shellfish jus (see page the stock with a hand-held blender.
346) Season to taste with salt, sugar and
Combava oil 750 ml shellfish nage (see page 346) cayenne pepper. Before serving, bring
---- - -
-PAGE 261
Xanthan gum the poaching stock to 48-52 'C and
Salt, pepper the lobster tails to a 42 'C core tem­
Combava vinaigrette 100 g cold butter perature. When the core temperature
has been reached, halve and carve
330 ml Sanbai bonito vinegar Wash the lobster carcasses and chop the lobsters lengthwise. Coat with the
Xanthan gum into small pieces. Slice the mush­ warm miso varnish and sprinkle with
14 tbsp miso oil (see page 348) rooms, shallots, carrots, celery and curried nuts (see right).
2 tbsp ginger oil (see page 348) fennel into hazelnut-sized pieces
14 tbsp Combava oil (see page 261) and saute with garlic, thyme and star
Salt, pepper, sugar aniseed. Continue to saute with the Calamansi gel
lobster carcasses. Meanwhile mix the
Lightly bind the bonito vinegar with peppers, tomatoes and tomato juice 200 g calamansi puree
the xanthan gum. Then fold in the in the Thermomix until line and pour 200 ml water
remaining ingredients until a finely­ into pot. Then fill up with the shellfish 70 g sugar
beaded vinaigrette is formed. Season jus and shellfish nage and allow to 5 g agar-agar
to taste with salt, pepper and sugar. simmer gently for 45 minutes. After 5 g gel Ian gum
let the stock stand on the side of the
stove for 3 hours simmering gently, Bring the calamansi puree to the
but not boiling. Then strain and boil with water, sugar and thickeners
reduce it to 350 ml. Bind lightly with and then allow it to form a gel. As
xanthan gum and season to taste soon as the mixture is firm and cooled
with salt and pepper. Add the cold through, beat it to a smooth gel in
butter before serving. the Thermomix.
MENU
VI

False sushi Pickled carrots Curried nuts

TO SERVE
1 head of pointed cabbage 4 large carrots 2 lemon grass stalks (only the hearts)
50 g butter 100 ml Melfor vinegar 10 g of garlic slices, deep-fried and
Salt, pepper, sugar 100ml water dried Place the carved lobster on a warmed
15g finely-grated ginger 100 g sugar 1 chili pod plate in a semi-circle. Arrange the
8 lobster pincers (see page 261) 200 g chopped, roasted hazelnuts sushi, the pickled, warmed carrots,
30 g nut butter Peel the carrots and cut them using 1 tbsp icing sugar the carrot-ginger puree and the
Nutmeg the slicing machine lengthways to 2 tbsp clarified butter calamansi gel attractively around the
Fleur de Sel 2 mm thick strips. With the help of 2 pinches of mild Madras curry plate. Then pour the hot lobster jus,
(2.5 cm and 1.5 cm) rings, cut 16 large powder the foamed lobster bisque and the
Remove the outer leaves of the and 16 small wafers out of the carrot 1 tsp of chopped coriander combava vinaigrette and garnish with
pointed cabbage, tear off 4 leaves, strips. Trim a further 16 8 cm long Zest of 1 untreated kaffir lime greens, cress and blooms. Finally,
remove the stalk and cut it in half, and 1.5 cm wide carrot strips. Bring Salt sprinkle the lobster with rice flakes
lengthways. Then blanch the leaves in the remaining ingredients to the boil and sesame.
boiling, salted water for 20 seconds and pour over the prepared carrot Finely chop the lemon grass hearts
and shock them in icy water. Then wafers and strips. Then refrigerate for and the deep-fried garlic and dice the
lay them out in a slightly overlapping 12 hours. Take out the pickled carrot chili into fine morsels. Lightly roast
rectangle and roll them flat under a strips and form them into small rolls the chopped hazelnuts in a pan and
kitchen towel, using a rolling pin. Cut before serving. caramelise them with icing sugar. Add
the remainder of the cabbage into the clarified butter and mix well. Then
four pieces. Remove the stalks and add Madras curry, coriander, lemon
cut them into 2 mm strips. Saute the Carrot and ginger puree grass, garlic and chili and season
cabbage strips in butter until they are harmoniously to taste with kaffir lime
colourless and then season them with 100 g shallots zest, salt and a little more icing sugar.
salt, pepper and sugar. Then season 200 g butter
the cabbage strips to taste with gin­ 750 g carrots
ger and soak up the excess liquid with 50g ginger Garnish
a cloth. Trim the prepared lobster 350 ml yuzu juice, freshly pressed
pincers front and back and then cut Salt, sugar 16 carrot green tips
them in half lengthwise. Form the 16 tips ghoa cress
pointed cabbage strips into two 3 mm Finely chop the shallots and saute 8 violet blossoms
rectangles (10 x 8 cm) on a piece of in butter until translucent. Dice the 8 bean blossoms
clingfilm. Place the lobster pincers in carrots and then add them. Slice 20 g baked green rice flakes
a row on the cabbage and then roll the ginger and then add it. Then add 1 tsp roasted sesame seed with Ume
up in the foil and chill for 1 hour. Then the carrot juice and cook the carrots plums
place the prepared pointed cabbage until they are soft.
leaves on a piece of clingfilm, coat Then mix in Thermomix until fine. Sea­
with nut butter and season with salt, son to taste with salt and sugar and
pepper and nutmeg. Then roll in the pass the mix ture through a fine sieve.
pointed cabbage rolls and refrigerate
for 30 minutes.
Cut the rolls into 2.5cm thick pieces
and steam them at low heat for 5
minutes in a bamboo basket. Spread
with nut butter and season lightly
with Fleur de Sel to serve.

262
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263
MENU
VI

DISH IV

ZANDER
GREEN VEGETABLES
SMALL ONIONS
FOAMED DASHI

Avocado and chive cream

Chive oil

Courgette blossom tempura

Dashi, foamed

Edamame

Onion crumble

Onion puree

Onion skins

Pak choi

Pea foam

Shallot melt

Shallot rings

Zander

264

265
DI SH IV

ZANDER
GREEN VEGETABLES I PEARL ONIONS I FOAMED DASHI

Zander Shallot rings Courgette blossom tempura

1 Zander weighing around 2.8 kg 3 medium-sized shallots 3 courgette blossoms


Salt 50ml water 65g flour
40g liquid, brown butter 50ml Melfor vinegar 125ml warm water
80 g butter 50 g sugar 4g yeast
40g miso paste for searing (see page 2g salt 2 g salt
349) 500ml palm fat
Peel the shallots and cut them into
Wash, clean, descale and fillet zander. 1cm rings. Bring the remaining in­ Divide the courgette blossoms into
Then remove skin from fillets and di­ gredients to the boil and pour over 3 to 4 pieces. Make a smooth dough
vide the back from the belly along the the shallot rings. Then leave to cool out of the water, yeast and salt and
backbone. Divide up the back into and let stand in refrigerator for at then heat the oil to 150 ·c. Dust the
4 portions of 65-70g each. The belly least 24 hours. blooms lightly with flour and then
can be used for stuffing or something brush them with the dough. Then
similar. bake them until they are golden-yel­
Then salt the back fillets, coat with Onion puree low. Add salt and place them in the
brown butter and on a clingfilm­ Hold-o-mat at 65 ·c.
covered plate in the oven steam at 300 g white onions
62 •c for 4 minutes per side. Then Salt, sugar
baste the fillets rapidly in a pan with 30g creme frakhe Onion crumble
foamed butter at a core temperature 1 pinch of xanthan gum
of 43-44•c. Lastly coat one side Cayenne pepper 1 white onion
of the fillet with the paste and sear 100g flour
with the culinary torch. Peel the onions and cut into 5 mm 1 pinch of paprika powder
strips. Season with salt and sugar and 500ml neutral vegetable oil
leave for 20 minutes to draw off the 60g chopped almonds
Pearl onions water from the onions. Simmer the Salt, sugar
dehydrated onions in the resulting Cinnamon
20 white pearl onions liquid in a pot until they are soft and
100 ml water then cover them with perforated Peel onions and slice into thin rings.
100 ml Melfor vinegar baking paper. Then drain the onions Mix the flour and paprika powder,
100g sugar and mix them in the Thermomix with cover the onion rings with the mixture
5g salt creme fraTche and xanthan gum until and then deep fry at 160 ·c. Imme­
the mixture is fine. Then pass them diately salt the onion rings and add a
Peel the pearl onions. Bring the through a fine sieve and reduce them little sugar. Then bake the chopped
remaining ingredients to the boil and in a pot until they are firm. Then put almonds in the oven at 200 •c. Chop
pour over the pearl onions. Then them in the Thermomix again and the deep-fried onion rings finely, mix
leave to cool and let stand in refrige­ mix them until they are fine. Finally, with the almonds and season them
rator for at least 36 hours. Lastly cut season to taste with salt, cayenne to taste with salt, sugar and a pinch
the pearl onions lengthwise in half pepper and sugar and pass them of cinnamon.
and sear them black with a culinary through a fine strainer.
torch. Then remove the onion skins
and select the best.
MENU
VI

Shallot melt Pea puree Avocado and chive cream Pak choi

150g shallots 50g pork belly 2 ripe avocados 8 mini pak choi
1 sprig of thyme 50g shallots 50 g chives 2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 sprig of rosemary 30ml white wine 10g coriander Pak choi stock (see left)
50ml vegetable oil 100ml cream 30g Greek yoghurt Salt, sugar
Salt, sugar 1 bay leaf Juice and zest of 1 untreated lime
20g butter 1 sprig of thyme Salt, pepper Clean the pak choi, remove the out­
20g chives 300g peas side leaves and then saute gently in
Pepper 1 pinch of xanthan gum Peel the avocados, remove the oil. Add the pak choi stock and season
Salt, pepper, sugar stones, and mix the flesh together to taste with salt and pepper.
Peel the shallots, chop them into a with chives, coriander and yoghurt
fine brunoise, and with the thyme and Cut the pork belly and shallots into in Thermomix until fine.
rosemary cook them in oil until they 1 cm cubes, saute in pot, pour in Season to taste with the lime juice Garnish
are translucent. Season to taste with white wine and add cream. Add the and zest, salt and pepper and then
salt and sugar. Drain the soft-cooked herbs and then reduce by half. Blanch pass through a fine sieve. Keep in a 8 affilla cress blooms
shallots and then mix with the butter the peas briefly in boiling, salted cool place until needed. 8 violet blossoms
and the chives to make a loose mix­ water and then immediately shock in
ture. Then season again to taste with icy water. Then put the peas and the
salt, pepper and sugar. cream reduction into the Thermomix Chive oil
and mix until fine. Bind lightly with
xanthan gum and season to taste with 240g chives
TO SERVE
Edamame sugar, salt and pepper. 120g parsley
10g salt
100g shelled edamame 400 ml sunflower oil Place the shallot rings on a warmed
20ml chicken stock (see page 345) Pea foam plate and fill with avocado chive
10 g butter Mix all ingredients in the Thermomix cream. Then arrange the onion puree,
10g chopped parsley 200g pea puree (see above ) at top setting and at 80·c. onion skins, edamame and pak choi
Salt, pepper, sugar 2 eggs When this temperature is reached, on the plate.
5 g mustard continue to mix for 2 minutes. Then Put the fish in the middle, decorate
Glaze the edamame in a pan with 5ml lemon juice pass through cloth strainer and with a thin strip of shallot confit and
the stock and the butter. Then add 120ml grape seed oil store for 1 hour in the blast freezer. sprinkle with onion crumble. Lastly
parsley and season to taste with salt, 60ml miso oil (see page 348) Then separate the oil from the fro­ dress with pea foam and the foamed
pepper and sugar. Salt, sugar zen opaque mixture with a rubber dashi butter. Garnish with cress
scraper. blossoms, violets, courgette tempura
Mix the pea puree with eggs, mustard, and chive oil.
Dashi butter and lemon juice in the Thermomix
until fine. Then pour in both oils into Pak choi stock
250ml white wine the mix in a thick, steady stream.
750ml dashi (see page 347) Season to taste with salt and sugar. 500ml vegetable stock (see page 344)
100g salted raw milk butter Finally put the mixture into an iSi­ 15ml mirin
100g sweet cream butter Siphon and load with 2 gas capsules. 10 ml sake
Salt, cayenne pepper Keep at 57° C in a bain-marie until 3ml lemon juice
50g chives, chopped small needed. 5ml juice from candied ginger

Reduce the white wine by a third and Mix all ingredients together.
then pour in dashi. Reduce to 200 ml.
Then put in the butter and season to
taste with salt, cayenne pepper and
dashi. Foam up shortly before serving
and add chives.

266
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267
MENU
VI

DI SH V

THE BEST
OF
VEAL
DIM SUM
HAZELNUT
ALBA WHITE TRUFFLE

Alba white truffle

Calf's head

Dim sum

Hazelnut cream

Hazelnuts

Mushroom cream

Nut butter foam

Spinach cream

Truffle foam

Vealjus

Veal sweetbreads

268

269
DISH V

THE BEST OF VEAL


DIM SUM I HAZELNUT I ALBA WHITE TRUFFLE

½ calf's head (eyes, skin, and nose Poached heart sweetbreads Dim sum
removed) with tongue
2 x 220g heart sweetbreads 100g boiled calf's head
Soak the calf's head for 3 to 4 hours 50g celery 50 g boiled calf's tongue
in cold water. 50g celeriac 50g poached veal sweetbreads (see
50g white part of leek left)
50g shallots Vegetable oil
Pickle 1 L water 20 g blanched vegetable brunoise
10 peppercorns (courgette, carrot and celery)
150 g pickling salt 10 juniper berries 100g chicken stuffing (see page 345)
60g salt 1 bay leaf 10g white truffle, finely chopped
30 juniper berries Salt 10g chopped parsley
30 peppercorns Salt, pepper
6 thyme sprigs Soak the sweetbreads for at least 36 sheets of dim sum dough
6 bay leaves 6 hours in cold water. Cut the vege­ 1 egg yolk
6 cloves tables in hazelnut-sized pieces, then
6 cloves of garlic bring to the boil with water, seasoning Cut the calf's head and tongue into
3 L water and a pinch of salt. Add the sweet­ fine cubes. Then also cut the sweet­
breads, take off the heat immediately breads into fine cubes and fry in very
Mix all the ingredients together and and leave on the edge of the stove hot oil in a Teflon-coated pan. Mix
pickle the calf's head and tongue for to stand for 20 minutes. Then remove in the calf's head, tongue and sweet­
12 hours. from the stove and leave to cool. breads with the vegetable brunoise
Separate the sweetbreads from the and chicken stuffing. Then add truffle
remaining sinews and blood clots. and parsley and season to taste with
Preparation of calf's head salt and pepper.
Spread out the dim sum dough, brush
300g carrots Glazed sweetbreads the edge with egg yolk and fill in 12g
300g celery portions. Lastly, form the dim sum
200g white part of leek 200g poached veal sweetbreads (see with a dim sum press.
2 white onions above)
4 bay leaves Vegetable oil
8 cloves 10g butter Hazelnut cream
50g truffle jus (see page 347)
Chop the carrots, celery and leek Salt, pepper 150 g shelled, whole hazelnuts
into large pieces and cover the onions 100ml milk
with bay leaves and cloves. Remove Cut the poached sweetbreads into Salt, sugar
calf's head from the pickle and place 24 hazelnut-sized pieces and brown
together with vegetables in a large in a pan with oil. Then foam the butter Gently toast the hazelnuts in a pot,
pot. Cover with cold water and weigh and glaze with truffle jus. Season to then bring to the boil with milk once,
down with a sieve so that the calf's taste with salt and pepper. cover with aluminium foil well and
head is constantly under water. Then bake in oven at 200·c for 1 hour.
bring to the boil and then gently sim­ Then put in a Pacojet container and
mer. Ladle off the foam from time freeze for at least 6 hours. Pacotize
to time. After about 4 hours remove the frozen mixture nine times and
the tongue and cheeks from the then pass through a fine sieve. Season
water. After a further 30 minutes re­ to taste with salt and sugar.
move the rest of the head and leave
to cool. Prepare while still warm and
remove fat.
MENU
VI

Spinach cream Nut butter foam


TO SERVE
1 kg spinach 200 ml veal jus (see page 344) 150 L chicken stock (see page 345)
50 g nut butter Salt, pepper 150 ml veal jus (see page 344)
Salt, sugar, pepper, nutmeg 1 tbsp cold butter 6 g Proespuma Hot Steam the dim sum in a bamboo
1 pinch of xanthan gum 3 g agar-agar basket for 5 minutes, and at the same
50 ml whipped cream Reduce the jus by a third. Season to 200 g nut butter time place the hot spinach cream in
taste with salt and pepper before Salt, pepper, nutmeg the middle of a pre-warmed plate.
Remove stalks and any yellowish parts serving and add in the cold butter. Place 3 dim sum and the sweet­
from spinach and then wash well. Reduce the chicken stock and veal breads next to the spinach. Arrange
Blanch in boiling, salted water and jus by exactly half. Then pour into the hazelnut and mushroom cream
then immediately shock in icy water. Truffle foam Thermomix, heat to 65 ·c and add attractively on the plate. Pour a thin
Then dry off the spinach well with Proespuma and agar-agar. Heat layer of hot jus on the dim sum and
a kitchen towel so that there is as 100 g peeled shallots the nut butter in a pot to 65 •c and dress with truffle foam. Place the
little water as possible left. Then put 100 g white part of leek then pour very slowly into the Ther­ nut butter foam on the centre of the
in a Pacojet container and freeze for 100 g white mushrooms momix so a creamy mixture emerges. plate. Lastly, place fine layers of fresh
at least 6 hours. Pacotize 6 times 30 g butter Season to taste with salt, pepper truffle with a truffle plane and garnish
when still frozen until a fine cream is Salt, pepper and nutmeg. Then put the mixture with caramelised hazelnuts, calf's
formed. Strain through a fine sieve 100 ml white port into an iSi-Siphon and load with 1 gas head crisp, and red-veined dock.
before use, heat in a pot and season 50 ml Noilly Prat capsule. Keep the syphon warm in a
°
to taste with nut butter, salt, sugar, 400 ml chicken stock (see page 345) bain-marie at 57 C.
pepper and nutmeg and bind with 200 ml cream
xanthan gum. Fold in the whipped 12 g white truffles (use the small
cream to serve. pieces also) Caramelised hazelnuts
1 tsp white truffle oil (top quality)
Nutmeg 24 half Piedmont hazelnuts
Calf's head crisp 10 g icing sugar
Chop the shallots, leek and mush­ Salt
200 g boiled calf's head room into small pieces, saute in
50 g cornflour foaming butter and then season with Brown the hazelnuts in a dry pan, dust
500 ml palm fat salt and pepper. Add white wine with icing sugar and caramelise gently.
Salt and Noilly Prat and reduce. Pour in Then season with1 pinch of salt. Place
chicken stock and reduce by a third. the caramelised nuts on baking paper
Freeze the calf's head for about 2 Add the cream and bring once to and leave to cool.
hours, then cut into 2 cm long and the boil. Clean the truffles, peel
2 x 2 mm wide pieces. Then dust with gently and chop finely. Set the more
a little cornflower and deep fry at attractive part of the truffle aside Garnish
190 •c until crispy. Season with salt for garnish. Then add the finely­
and keep in Hold-o-mat at 65 •c. chopped truffle and the truffle oil to 200 g mushroom cream (see page
the cream mixture and place on the 344)
edge of the stove for 30 minutes 1 fresh Alba truffle (45-50 g) (see left)
at a moderate heat. Mix thoroughly 16 leaves of tiny red-veined dock
with a hand-held blender and season
to taste with salt, pepper and nut­
meg.

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MENU
VI

DI SH V I

WILD HARE FROM


THE SOLOGNE
HEART OF PALM
ASIAN BROCCOLI
PURPLE CURRY

Baby broccoli

Beech mushrooms

Heart of palm from Hawaii

Heart of palm puree

Mushroom cream

Offal sandwich

Purple curry sauce

Saddle of wild hare

272

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BAU.STEINE DISH VI

The best of Wohlfahrt cuisine and a great


Black Forest tradition: game is always on
the menu when it's hunting season. Diners
want to enjoy the special flavours of the
season and derive particular pleasure from
products not so frequently seen on the
menu, such as partridge, wild duck and
pheasant. And of course wild hare has
both a more intense and finer flavour than
its domestic cousin. Christian Bau serves a
bright red purple curry sauce as a counter­
point. The sauce is sweet, sour, silky and
above all, highly elegant. And it is the only
sauce in Bau's repertoire which is not made
from the juices of the meat or fish served.
At the centre are the wonderful flavours of
the perfectly composed curry by lngo Hol­
land: Hibiscus blossoms, cumin, mace ...
For the purists there are also some nutty,
lightly coloured heart of palm wafers.
MENU
VI

Wild hare Heart of palm Purple curry sauce


wafers

4 x 600 g saddles of hare 300 g heart of palm (core removed) 6g large shallots, finely chopped
Salt, pepper Vegetable oil 4 crushed cloves of garlic
Vegetable oil Salt, pepper 4 tbsp olive oil
2 rosemary sprigs 40 g purple curry
3 juniper berries Remove the fibrous thick core from the heart of 100 ml red wine vinegar (Forum)
100g butter palm, cut out 6 mm slices and then cut out 8 rings 250 ml red wine
with diameters of respectively 4, 2 and 1 cm. Fry 125 ml red port
Debone the saddle of hare and separate the silver the rings with a little oil until golden-brown. Season 200 ml red reduction (see page 276)
skin. Break into 8 same sized pieces. Important: with salt and pepper. 125 ml highly reduced chicken stock (see page 345)
Ensure that there are no blood clots or anything 200 ml veal jus (see page 344)
unwanted in the fillets. 1 tsp xanthan gum
Season the fillets with salt and pepper and brown 2 tbsp beetroot granules
equally on all sides. Then precook on a rack at Salt, pepper, sugar
200 •c for 3 minutes in the oven. Let the fillets rest 35 g cold butter
in the Hold-o-mat at 64 •c for 30 minutes.
When served, the fillets should be fried off rapidly Brown the shallots and garlic with olive oil, dust
with butter flavoured with rosemary and juniper with a little curry powder and toast. Add red wine
berries. The fillets should have a core temperature vinegar and fill up with red wine, port, and red
of 54 ·c. reduction. Reduce the liquid by a half. Add the
chicken stock and veal jus and then reduce by a
third. Then pass through a conical sieve, bind
lightly with xanthan gum and colour with beetroot
granules. Then pass through a micro sieve. Season
to taste with salt, pepper and sugar. Shortly before
serving add cold butter.

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DISH VI

WILD HARE FROM THE SOLOGNE


HEART OF PALM ASIAN BROCCOLI PURPLE CURRY

Wild ha re Shallot confit


- - -
--- PAGE 275

2 large shallots
>Red reduction< 1 clove of garlic
1 sprig of rosemary
500 ml red wine (Cote du Rhone) Salt
185 ml red port 30 ml grape seed oil
175 ml red grape juice
Chop the shallots and cloves of garlic to make a
Reduce all ingredients to 200 ml. brunoise. Then slowly stew with rosemary and a
little salt in oil in a copper sauteuse without losing
colour until cooked.
Pu rp l e c u r r a uc e
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ y_s _ _ _ __ PAGE 2 7 5

Offal sandwich

4 slices of bread for toasting


250 g chicken liver, cleaned and finely chopped
4 chicken hearts, very finely chopped
80 g foie gras, sliced into brunoise (2 x 2 mm)
1 ½ tbsp shallot con/it (without oil) (see above)
10 g chopped parsley
5 tbsp grape seed oil for deep-fry
Salt, pepper

Remove crusts from bread. Freeze and then halve


on slicing machine to make two 4 mm square slices.
Mix the remaining ingredients together, season to
taste and spread on the 4 slices of toast. Cover the
sandwich with the remaining 4 slices and toast in
grape seed oil on both sides until golden-brown.
Then put in the oven for 90 seconds at 200 •c.
Then toast off again in a Teflon pan in the hot grape
seed oil. Lay the sandwiches on kitchen paper to
dry off the oil thoroughly. Salt and then trim.
MENU
VI

Heart of palm puree Heart of palm salad Beech mushrooms

1 kg heart of palm 200 g firm (not fibrous) heart of palm 32 small white beech mushrooms
500 ml coconut milk 50 g radishes 32 small brown beech mushrooms
500ml water 150 g broccoli florets 20 g parsley
Salt, sugar 10 g chives, finely sliced ½ clove of garlic
1 pinch of xanthan gum Zest of½ untreated lime 2 tbsp vegetable oil
Cayenne pepper 60 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348) Salt, pepper
Salt, pepper, sugar Butter
Remove the fibrous core from the heart of palm.
Remove brown or oxidised parts. Then chop finely. Chop the hearts of palm and the radishes into a Clean the white and brown beech mushrooms
Mix coconut milk and water and boil the heart of fine 2 x 2 mm brunoise. Using a peeler cut off the Chop the parsley and garlic finely Fry off the
palm. Then salt and sugar lightly. Lay a piece of fine broccoli buds off with a peeler to make a mushrooms in oil and season with salt and pepper.
baking paper on the surface and then simmer over broccoli couscous. Mix the broccoli couscous with Lastly, add a little butter, garlic and parsley.
a medium heat for 1 hour until soft. Strain the soft heart of palm, radishes, chives, lime zest and
heart of palm and mix with xanthan gum in the shiso vinaigrette. Season to taste with salt, pepper
Thermomix. Then pass through a fine conical sieve and sugar. Garnish
and reduce in a pot. The puree should be firm not
runny. Lastly, mix again, season to taste with salt, 150 g mushroom cream (see page 344)
sugar and cayenne pepper and then pass through Asian broccoli 8 tips of fine frisee
a fine strainer. 8 chervil tips
300 g wild broccoli (baby broccoli) 8 fine leaves of red shiso cress
Salt, pepper, sugar
Heart of palm chips 50 ml chicken stock (see page 345)
15 ml dark toasted sesame oil
100 g heart of palm (core removed) 2 tbsp nut butter
500 ml palm fat for deep-frying
TO SERVE
Salt Trim the broccoli to a length of 6.5 cm. Peel the
ends which have been removed and lay to one side.
Heat the oil to 150 ·c. Shred the hearts of palm Separate the leaves and the little sprigs from the Place the heart of palm puree and the mushroom
(without the fibrous cores) directly into the hot oil tips and then turn the stalks. Season the broccoli cream on a warmed plate. Use a cutter to cut
and fry off until golden brown. The heart of palm tips with salt, pepper and sugar, fry in hot oil and out a 3 cm diameter 2 cm high portion of heart of
chips should not be thicker than 1 mm. Then salt then add chicken stock. Cover and then continue to palm salad on the wafers. Then put a dab of heart
and dry at 65 ° for 4 hours in the dehydrator. cook until the broccoli is al dente and the stock has of palm puree on top and set out the broccoli
been boiled away. Then glaze with sesame oil and stems and heart of palm chips. Then place the pre­
serve. pared wafers on the plate. Now arrange the beech
Heart of palm wafers Sear the peeled stalks with a culinary torch and mushrooms and the small heart of palm wafers
PAGE 275
then chop into 2 cm pieces. Heat the seared stalks on the plate.
with nut butter in a pan, season with salt, pepper Also set out the offal sandwich and the broccoli
and sugar, and serve. in an attractive display. Lastly, carve the saddle of
hare and place in the centre of the plate. Pour
the hot purple curry sauce around the hare. Garnish
with frisee, chervil and cress.

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MENU
VI

DISH VII

>JAPANESE
MOMENT<
MATCHA TEA
LYCHEE
GREEN SHISO LEAVES

Cookie dough

Dragon fruit balls

Green shiso sorbet

Green tea ganache

Jasmin blossoms

Lychee foam

Mangosteens

Matcha tea

Milk rice

278

279
DISH VII

>JAPANESE MOMENT<
MATCHA TEA I LYCHEE I GREEN SHISO

Cookie ring Milk rice

125g flour 50g short-grain rice


125g icing sugar 1 g salt
62 g egg white 300ml milk
62 g cream 20 g sugar
Pulp from ¼ vanilla pod
Mix up all ingredients in mixer and then lay out 8 30g butter
(2 x 18 cm) rectangles on a Silpat mat using a 6 0ml cream
cookie cutter. Bake at 160 •c for 15 minutes and
then place on the inner edge of a 5.5cm diameter Cook the rice in salted water until al dente. Reduce
ring and leave to cool. the milk with the sugar and vanilla pulp by half.
Then cook the rice risotto-style adding the milk
and sugar mixture progressively. Add in the butter
Green tea ganache base and let the rice cool. Meanwhile whip the cream
until stiff and then fold gently into the cooled rice
63ml milk mixture.
63ml cream
Pulp from ½ vanilla pod
25g egg yolk Lychee foam
12 g sugar
450g lychee puree
Bring milk, cream and vanilla pulp to the boil and 37 g sugar
then thicken in Thermomix at 85·c with egg yolk 10 gelatine sheets, softened and squeezed
and sugar. 250g yoghurt
37 g rose water

Green tea ganache Bring the lychee puree to a boil with the sugar and
dissolve in the gelatine . Mix the yoghurt with the
75g green tea ganache base (see above) rose water and add in the lychee mixture. Put
112 ml cream the mixture into an iSi-Siphon and load with 1 gas
11 g Matcha tea capsule. Refrigerate and warm up in a hot bain­
1. 9 gelatine, softened and squeezed marie before serving.
125g white couverture chocolate

Warm up the cream and Matcha tea base on the


oven and dissolve the gelatine into the mixture.
Lastly, add the white couverture, stir until smooth
. and then refrigerate the mixture.
MENU
VI

Green shiso sorbet

TO SERVE
175ml water
150 ml coconut milk
90 g sugar Powder a plate with a circle of Matcha tea. Place
3 g Super Neutrose the cookie ring to one side and fill with the green
22 ml Yuzu juice tea ganache. Place the milk rice in the middle
40 ml plum wine of the filled ring. Cut out 3 small balls of dragon
16 g chopped green shiso leaves fruit with the parisienne scoop and lay out on the
inside of the ring. On the right-hand side of the
Heat up the water and coconut milk to 45•c. Mix ring at 1, 2 and 3 o'clock set a mangosteen fillet.
the sugar and Super Neutrose together and then Then cover with the lychee foam and alternate jas­
with the coconut and water mixture heat to 80 •c. mine and cornflower blossoms around the edges
Then pour the yuzu juice and plum wine onto of the foam. Place a leaf of green shiso cress in the
the chopped shiso leaves and freeze in a Pacojet centre. Then place a scoop of green shiso sorbet
container for at least 6 hours. When needed, at approximately 4 o'clock and lay a whole jasmine
pacotize the ice cream until there are no more flower next to it.
pieces visible.

Garnish

10 g matcha tea
1 dragon fruit
24 mangosteen fillets
1 pack cornflowers
1 pack jasmine blooms
1 pack green shiso cress

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MENU
VI

DISH VIII

>BAU.STEIN<
TONKA BEAN
PEAR
RED WINE

Crunchy base

Ginger macaroons

Pear gel

Pear-flavoured edible paper

Pears

Red wine ice cream

Tonka bean cream

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283
BAU.STEINE DISH VIII

A true classic amongst Bau desserts. Con­


stantly seeking for further taste combina­
tions, but always reserved; almost as mo
dest in presentation as it is elaborate in its
production. Tonka bean cream on a crunchy
bed, pear used as stew, gel and edible pa­
per, together with ginger macaroons and
red wine ice cream. This is typical of Bau's
cuisine: no superficial effects or mindless
decorations, just lustre and harmony and
the finest of flavours. The essence of the
dish is a ravishingly silky tonka bean cream,
a crunchy chocolate praline bed, and the
spicy poached pears. Desserts of lettuce
tapioca, fermented carrot and parsley ice
cream just aren't Christian Bau's thing.
MENU
VI

Tonka bean cream Crunchy base Poached pear

165g tonka bean base (see below) 75g hazelnut praline 450ml white wine
112 g white couverture chocolate 30g milk couverture chocolate 100g sugar
75g egg yolk 15g roasted almonds, chopped and roasted The pulp of 1 vanilla pod
24 g Eclat d'Or (crepe wafers) 1 cinnamon stick
Heat the base and the couverture in the Thermo­ 2 ripe Abate Fetel pears
mix to 85 ·c. Then add the egg yolk to thicken. Melt the hazelnut praline and milk chocolate
Pour the mixture into a terrine form and poach in a couverture together. Add the remaining ingredients Bring the white wine with the sugar, vanilla pulp
bain-marie poach at 130 •c for 2 hours in the oven. and mix them. Spread the mixture on baking paper and cinnamon stick to the boil. Peel the pears and
Then let the mixture cool for 2 hours. In Thermomix and then leave to cool. Then cut out squares the cut out 22mm diameter balls and cover with the
mix to 50 •c and pour into square silicon moulds same size as the silicon moulds with the tonka bean hot stock.
ensuring there are no air bubbles. cream and place on the moulds ensuring that there
is no air between the cream and the base. Press
gently and freeze.
Tonka bean base

1 tonka bean
275ml milk
156g butter

Grate the tonka bean with a microplane zester into


the milk, add the butter and bring to the boil. Let
stand for 24 hours and then strain.

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DISH VIII

>BAU.STEIN<
TONKA BEAN I PEAR I RED WINE

Tonka bean base


- ------
-PAGE 285

250 g white couverture chocolate


Tonka bean cream 200 g cocoa butter
- ------
-PAGE 285
4 g white colouring (titanium dioxide)

Crunchy base Melt the ingredients in a bain-marie and mix


PAGE 285
with a hand-held blender avoiding the creation of
air bubbles. Then strain the mixture to produce
the resulting spray.
Put the spray into an airbrush and spray a fine layer
over the frozen tonka bean cream. Freeze until use.

P o ea
_ _ a_ _c_h_e _d---'p
'--- _ _r__ PAGE 285

Fresh pear garnish

25 g icing sugar
Juice of 1 lime
1 Abate Fetel pear

Dissolve the icing sugar in lime juice. Halve the


pear and cut out 16 balls 22 mm in diameter out
of one of the halves. Cut a total of 32 slices out of
the other half with the following dimensions:

· 8 slices with 25 mm diameter


· 8 slices with 18 mm diameter
· 16 slices with 15 mm diameter

Place the slices and the balls in the lime sugar


solution, cover and refrigerate.
MENU
VI

Red wine ice cream

TO SERVE
250 g pear puree 125 g sugar
2.5 g agar-agar 750 ml red wine
2.5 g gel Ian gum 250 ml red port Place the frozen tonka bean cream with the
Juice of ½ lime 7 g cassis puree crunchy base in the middle of the plate and leave
1 clove to thaw for about 5 minutes. Place differently-sized
Bring all the ingredients to the boil and then leave ½ cinnamon stick dabs of pear gel on the plate. Position the balls and
to cool completely. Then blend in Thermomix until Zest of½ untreated lemon slices of the fresh pear together with one ma­
smooth and strain. Zest of½ untreated orange rinaded pear on the gel dabs. Shine the pear balls
½ vanilla pod with the white wine stock and place on the gel
120 g egg yolk dabs. Decorate with atsina cress. Place a scoop of
Ginger macaroons 100 g sugar red wine ice cream and decorate with edible pear
100 g butter paper and ginger macaroons.
3 g peeled ginger
150 g apple juice Boil the sugar up to a caramel. Add in the red wine,
15 ml white balsamic vinegar red port, cassis puree, clove, cinnamon, lemon
27 g egg white and orange zest and vanilla pod and then reduce by
30 g sugar half. Then strain, add egg yolk and sugar, and heat
in Thermomix to 85 •c. Gradually add the butter.
Grate the ginger with a microplane grater. Then mix Freeze in Pacojet container for at least 24 hours.
all the ingredients and beat. Use an icing bag with Pacotize as required.
a plain nozzle to squeeze out small macaroons onto
a tin tray and dry for 10 hours in the dehydrator.
White wine stock to give a shine

Pear-flavoured edible paper 100 ml white wine


25 g sugar
50 g pear puree Pulp from ¼ vanilla pod
10 g glucose ¼ cinnamon stick
30 g liquid butter 1 pinch of xanthan gum
20 g icing sugar
30 g egg white Bring the white wine with the sugar, vanilla pulp and
cinnamon stick to the boil. Strain and leave to cool.
Mix all ingredients in Thermomix for 3 minutes. Then bind the stock with xanthan gum and pour
Then spread on a Silpat mat and bake at 160 •c for into a small spray bottle.
15-20 minutes.

Garnish

Atsina cress

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FRIENDS

Friendship is an art. It's an art that needs to be culti­


vated. And that is a challenge, if you work eighteen
hour days! There's rarely a night when Christian Bau
leaves the restaurant before 2 a.m. And then? And then
his mind is still turning over about the calibration of
the Breton lobster he's ordered, whether the asparagus
from Robert Blanc will arrive on time, what to do with
the newly discovered >lkejime< char. How can you be
friends with someone like that?
Markus Molitor manages to do it. Because he's no dif­
ferent. And because his unique Rieslings, with their
elegance and vibrant nature go perfectly with Bau's
cuisine. And because Molitor is also obsessed, uncom­
promising, and never content. His work is never truly
finished. And because found his own path and strug­
gled his way through. Like Bau, who never bowed to

288

289
the mainstream regionality doctrine nor the often cited
pop-culture motto >less-is-more<, Markus Molitor got
rid of some of the sedateness of the local Mosel culture
and painstakingly won over his tradition-loving oppo­
nents. Today, both of them produce international top
quality and both have their most faithful friends way
beyond their immediate environment. And this too:
both of them are classical high-achievers. They are am­
bitious, talented and goal-orientated.
»When I was in my second year of training, I was much
more interested in lobster thermidor than in tradition­
al Swabian pork fillet dishes.« Christian Bau says. For
him, international fame was certainly not in the cards
from childhood - he left home at the age of 16. When he
was 22, he started to work as a Commis Entremetier in
the Schwarzwaldstube. It took just nine months before
he was made sous-chef (more co-chef than sous-chef)
for Harald Wohlfahrt. Markus Molitor was 20 when
he took over his father's winery in 1984. He practical­
ly started from nothing - without any acreage, tilling
away on leased land. Today he owns around 80 hectares
of vineyards in all the greatest Mosel locations between
Brauneberg und Traben-Trarbach: Wehlener Sonnenuhr,
Urziger Wiirzgarten, Bernkasteler Badstube, Graacher
Himmelreich ...

Christian Bau has had »Do things with passion or not at


all« tattooed on his arm next to the names of his daugh­
ters and his three Michelin stars. On one of those rare
free days, he sits in Molitor's dreamy, beautiful country
estate in Klosterberg von Bernkastel-Wehlen in front of
a sip of 2003 Graacher Domprobst selection and a few
slices of comte cheese. What is there left to do in life,
when you have already reached the top? Bau thinks
about it for a moment. Then Molitor says drily, »Keep
going!«
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SCALLOPS
SASHIMI I MIKAN I SEA URCHIN ICE CREAM

SALMON FROM THE ADOUR


AVOCADO I CITRUS I JALAPENO STOCK

RED GAMBERONI
YAMS I THAI CURRY I PAK CHOI I BERGAMOT

BLACK COD
OYSTERS I CAULIFLOWER I KOMBU

CREAMY KOSHIHIKARI
ABALONE I TRUFFLE I FOIE GRAS

DUCK FROM >MONSIEUR MIERAL<


BLACK SALSIFY IN SAKE I BEETROOT I DIM SUM

>JAPANESE SNOWBALL<
RED SHISO I CALPICO I YUZU SAKE

>SNICKERS 2018<
PEANUT I CHOCOLATE I CARAMEL I MALOON SALT
MENU
VII

DISH I

SCALLOPS
SASHIMI
MI KAN
SEA URCHIN ICE CREAM

Apple brunoise

Char caviar

Chives

Mandarin gel

Mandarin vinaigrette

Octopus chip

Salty yoghurt cream

Scallops

Sea urchin ice cream

296

297
DI SH I

SCALLOPS
SASHIMI I MIKAN I SEA URCHIN ICE CREAM

Coquilles Sea urchin ice cream

16 fresh, clean, well-rinsed, kitchen-ready scallops 100ml cream


(size 3-4) 150ml unskimmed milk
3 tbsp lemon vinaigrette 50g light brown cane sugar
Maldon salt 75g sea urchin roe
Freshly-ground white pepper 60g egg yolk
1 tbsp mandarin vinaigrette
Bring the cream, milk, sugar and sea urchin roe to
Slice the scallops in 3mm thick slices, then use a the boil. Mix in the Thermomix for 30 seconds until
cutter to cut out circles 3 cm in diameter. Then fine, then thicken with egg yolk at 85·c. Put the
marinate with lemon vinaigrette, Maldon salt and mixture in a Pacojet container and put in the freez­
white pepper. Spread a little mandarin vinaigrette er for at least 12 hours. Pacotize as required.
on the plates and season with salt and pepper.
Then arrange the marinaded scallops in a rosette.
Mandarin gel

Lemon vinaigrette 200 ml mikan juice (or mandarin juice)


80ml mikan mandarin vinegar
1 lemon 40 g sugar
2 limes 3g agar-agar
1 stalk lemon grass 3g gellan gum
1 kaffir lime leaf
375 ml (highest quality) olive oil Mix all the ingredients and bring to the boil. Pour
onto a tray, leave to cool and form a gel. Then use
Juice the lemon and limes. Bash the lemon grass, the Thermomix to work the mixture into a smooth
then slice finely and with the kaffir lime leaf heat to gel.
40 ·c in the lemon juice. Let stand for 1 hour. Strain
the juice and stir in the olive oil. Store at room
temperature in an opaque, airtight container. Salty yoghurt cream

100g double-cream cheese


Mandarin vinaigrette 50g Greek yoghurt
Zest of ½ untreated lime
200g Mandarin puree Salt, pepper, sugar
50 ml Japanese mandarin vinegar
Xanthan gum Stir cream cheese and yoghurt until smooth, then
50 ml curry oil add the lime zest and season to taste with salt,
200ml grape seed oil pepper and sugar.

Mix the mandarin puree with the mandarin vinegar


and bind with a little xanthan gum. Then mix the
two oils together.
MENU
VII

Squid chips

TO SERVE
15 g flour
15g cornflour
15 ml squid ink Sprinkle the scallop rosette with the apple brunoise
20 g liquid butter and chives and then drizzle with the mandarin
150 ml veal jus (see page 344) vinaigrette. Then place alternating drops of
150 ml water mandarin gel and yoghurt cream around the rosette
100 ml olive oil and garnish with char caviar and atsina cress.
250 ml vegetable oil for frying To finish, place a generous scoop of sea urchin ice
cream on the rosette and place a squid chip on
Mix all the ingredients in a mixing bowl. Spread top. Garnish with affilla cress.
a generous amount of oil on a griddle (or a good
Teflon-coated pan) preheated to 200 •c and with
a tablespoon pour the chip mixture in separate
servings on to the griddle. Heat until each serving
has become a thin crisp. Remove from the griddle
and dry off on kitchen paper. Store in a hot
cupboard on kitchen paper until needed. Break
into the desired form and size to serve.

Garnish

1 Granny Smith apple


20 g chives
2 tbsp char caviar
1 pack of atsina cress
1 pack of affilla cress

Peel the apples and cut into a brunoise. Finely slice


the chives.

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DISH II

SALMON
FROM
THE ADOUR
AVOCADO
CITRUS
JALAPENO STOCK

Avocado

Avocado cream

Avocado fans

Citrus gel

Daikon cress

Daikon radish oil

Garden cress

Jalapeiio stock

Kimizu

Oyster cream

Pickled vegetables

Ponzu vinaigrette

Salmon

Yuzu ice pearls


DISH II

SALMON FROM THE ADOUR


AVOCADO I CITRUS I JALAPENO STOCK

Salmon Kimizu Citrus gel

1 x 3.0-3.5kg Salmon from the Adour 120g egg yolk 15g calamansi puree
50 ml mirin 60g bergamot puree
Wash, fillet and bone the salmon in 50ml rice vinegar 45ml fresh yuzu juice
preparation for cooking. Slice the skin Salt 180ml water
from the salmon, remove any blubber 30g sugar
and cut the fillet lengthwise to sep­ Mix all the ingredients into a fine 4.2g agar-agar
°
arate the belly from the back. Store cream in the Thermomix at 85 C. 4.2g gel Ian gum
the belly in the fridge for further use. Season to taste with salt and strain 1.8 g cassava
Cast the salmon into the form re- through a fine strainer.
quired and dry marinade (see below ) . Bring all ingredients to the boil and
allow a gel to form. Then use the
Oyster cream Thermomix to beat the mixture into a
For the marinade smooth gel.
1 shallot cut into brunoise
200g salt 2 tbsp vegetable oil
100g brown sugar for sprinkling 30 ml white wine Avocado cream
75ml dashi (see page 347)
Mix the two ingredients together and 3 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) 3 ripe, peeled avocados with stones
marinade the salmon-back for 25 90g creme fraiche removed
minutes. Wash the marinade off brief­ 10g chives 70g yoghurt
ly and dry off the salmon with kitchen 10g coriander 10g chervil
paper. Cold smoke the salmon for 1 stalk of parsley 5g tarragon
2 minutes. Then vacuum seal it to a Agar-agar 10 g coriander
level of 40% and slow-cook it for 10 Gellan gum 10g basil
minutes at 40 ·c in a bain-marie. Then Juice of 1 lemon
put the cooked salmon in a vacu- Saute the shallot until transparent, Salt, pepper, sugar
um pouch in ice-cold water for 30 then add white wine and dashi and
minutes. Remove from vacuum pouch reduce. Add the oysters and the In the Thermomix beat all the ingre­
and brown (see below). oyster water and bring to the boil. dients into a cream, season to taste
Then immediately mix together with with the spices and strain.
the creme fraiche, chives, coriander
Sauce for searing and parsley in the Thermomix.
Pass through a splatter sieve. Add Broth
100ml low-salt soy sauce 1g agar-agar and 1g gel Ian gum per
50ml mirin 100ml mixture. Bring the liquid to 200g white part of leek
the boil again with the agar-agar and 200g celery stalk
Mix both ingredients and pour over gellan gum and then let it form a 3 shallots
the cooked salmon until completely gel. When cold, beat mixture into a 1 clove of garlic
moist. Then sear with a culinary torch smooth gel in the Thermomix. 2 tbsp vegetable oil
in order to lightly caramelise the 200ml white wine
mixture. Refrigerate the salmon and 50ml Neilly Prat
before serving portion out into 24 200ml chicken stock (see page 345)
slices, each 7mm thick. 1 pinch of xanthan gum

Cut the leek, celery, shallots and gar­


lic into small pieces and saute in oil
until transparent. Add white wine and
Neilly Prat and reduce to a third.
Then fill up with chicken broth and
reduce to about 250 ml. Bind with
xanthan gum, strain and chill.
MENU
VII

Jalapeiio stock Vegetables for pickling Avocado fans Garnish

200ml broth (see left), strained and 15 small round radishes, cleaned and 2 fully ripe avocados 1 pack daikon cress
cooled quartered. 50 ml lemon vinaigrette (see page 1 pack garden cress
2 tbsp green tabasco 3 shallots cut into 2mm thick rings 348) 8 cornflower blossoms
1 tbsp yuzu juice 16 wafers of yellow radish (2 cm diam­ Sea salt, freshly-ground black pepper 8 yellow marigolds
Salt, pepper, sugar eter, 3mm thick) 8 red marigolds
10 g finely chopped coriander stalk 8 loops of yellow radish (2 mm thick, Cut the avocados in half and remove 8 borage blossoms
20g chopped almonds 10 x 1.5 cm) the stone. Then peel and quarter.
20g green flying fish caviar 8 loops of white radish ( 2 mm thick, Cut the avocado flesh into 1mm slices
20 ml coriander oil (see page 348) · 10 x 1.5 cm) on the slicer lengthwise and lay them
20ml chive oil out in fans on a tray coated with
lemon vinaigrette. Brush the fans with
TO SERVE
Season the broth with tabasco, yuzu Vegetable stock for pickling lemon vinaigrette and season with sea
juice, salt, pepper and sugar. Then salt and pepper. Before serving cut
add in the coriander, almonds and 150ml water them into small 3cm diameter discs . Set out the salmon in the middle of
caviar and mix in the oils until finely 75 ml rice vinegar the dish. To the left of the salmon,
beaded. 25ml mirin place a row of pickled vegetables and
8 g salt Salty yuzu ice pearls adorn with dots of avocado cream,
8 g sugar oyster cream, citrus gel and kimizu.
Ponzu vinaigrette 2 juniper berries 24g glucose powder Garnish the row with cress and
5 white peppercorns 90g sugar blossoms and marinade with ponzu
125 ml chanponzu 1 bay leaf 4.6g Super Neutrose vinaigrette. Then lay out the avocado
25ml bonito vinegar 310ml water fans and decorate with borage
0.7g xanthan gum Bring all ingredients to the boil and 8 4ml yuzu juice blooms. Pour the jalapeiio stock over
240 ml sunflower oil pour the boiling mixture over the pre­ 58 ml lime juice the salmon and complete the row
pared vegetables (except the yellow of vegetables with daikon oil and the
Bind the chanponzu and bonito vine­ radish loops!). Let the vegetables Mix the glucose powder, sugar and frozen yuzu ice pearls.
gar with xanthan gum and soak for stand for 48 hours and then store in a Super Neutrose. Bring the water to
20 minutes. Then add in the oil to cool place. 45•c and trickle in the sugar mixture,
make a finely-beaded mixture. then heat to 86 ·c.
Stir in the citrus juices and soak
Radish balls everything in a 3•c fridge for at least
Daikon radish oil 12 hours. Using a spray bottle, trickle
100ml hot vegetable pickle-stock the yuzu mixture into liquid nitrogen
120g daikon cress (see above) in order to make the pearls. Then
60g parsley 5g red beetroot powder with a skimmer carefully remove the
200 ml vegetable oil 16 slices of white radish (5 cm diame­ pearls, place them on a plate and
3g salt ter, 1mm thick) freeze until needed.

Cut the cress from the pack. Chop Colour the pickle-stock with the red
up the parsley and mix with cress, oil beetroot powder and pour the hot
and salt at 80 •c in the Thermomix. mixture over the radish slices. Make
Drain in a fine sieve and freeze. incisions and form into balls.

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MENU
VII

DI SH 111

RED GAMBERONI
YAMS
THAI CURRY
PAK CHOI
BERGAMOT

Bergamot gel

Bergamot sauce

Coriander oil

Crustacean chip

Edamame

Gamberoni

Gamberoni tartare

Green Thai curry cream

Pak choi

Pineapple salad

Pointed cabbage sushi

Red crustacean sauce

Spring onion rings

Thai curry cream

Yam puree

Yams

304

305
BAU.STEINE DISH Ill

This dish runs the full gamut: it is a fire­


work display of textures, temperatures and
aromas. Christian Bau refers to his >>higher,
faster, further<< phase ... This dish is highly
complex - even in its reduced form. The
large red gambero, cooked in the bain­
marie and stir-fried, seasoned with a fruity
and spicy pineapple salad - lemon grass,
chilli, ginger, lime and just a hint of sesame
provide a wonderful setting for the sweet,
crunchy crustacean. A creamy base is pro­
vided by the velvety Thai yam puree, and
the masterly citrus fruit sauce is a per­
fect, fragrant, far-eastern solution for
sea-food of all kinds: Coconut milk, crus­
tacean broth, a powerful acidity provided
by the lime and bergamot, a whiff of spicy
Thai curry, lemon grass.
MENU
VII

Gamberoni Marinaded yams Bergamot sauce

10 red gamberoni (size 5) 1 large yam 50 g carrots, 50 g celery, 50 g mushrooms, 50 g


Salt, pepper 20 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348) shallots, 50 g fennel, 50 g leek (only use the white
40 g clarified butter Salt, sugar section)
1 tbsp vegetable oil 50 g butter
To make the yam wafers, cut out 16 discs (2 cm ½ garlic bulb
Prepare the gamberoni for cooking and season with diameter, 2 mm thick) out of the yams. For the ½ red chilli pepper pod, finely chopped
salt and pepper. Then vacuum-seal 8 gamberoni balls, cut out 8 discs (5 cm diameter, 1 mm thick) 2 kg lobster carcass, cut into walnut-sized pieces
with the clarified butter and cook for 48 ·c in the out of the yams. Marinade everything in the 200 ml white wine, 100 ml Noilly Prat
bain-marie for 3 minutes. Remove and then stir-fry shiso vinaigrette and season with salt and pepper. 1 tsp green Thai curry paste
in a pan on all sides. Use the remaining gamberoni Then make an incision into the middle of each 500 ml shellfish nage (see page 346)
for the tartare (see page 318). disc and use your thumb to roll each disc into a 250 ml chicken stock (see page 345)
cone shape. 4 stalks lemon grass, finely-chopped
50 g ginger, finely-chopped
Pineapple salad 100 ml lime juice, 100 ml bergamot juice
30 g kaffir lime leaves
70 g fully-ripe, sweet pineapples 500 ml coconut milk
70 g green pepper pods 130 g cold butter
1 stalk lemon grass Salt, pepper, sugar
1 tbsp dark sesame oil
10 g red chilli pepper pods, finely chopped Chop the vegetables into hazelnut-sized pieces
Grated ginger and saute gently in butter. Add the garlic, chilli pods
¼ clove of garlic, crushed and lobster carcass and saute. Add white wine,
Untreated kaffir lime zest Noilly Prat and curry paste and reduce. Then fill up
Salt, sugar with crustacean broth and chicken broth. Add
half of the ginger, lime juice, bergamot juice and
Dice the pineapple and peppers finely, chop the kaffir lime leaves and simmer gently for 2 hours -
inside of the lemon grass finely and lightly saute in reducing the liquid to half its volume. Then add the
sesame oil. Add chilli peppers and season to taste coconut milk and the other half of the ingredients,
with ginger, garlic, kaffir lime zest, salt and pepper. bring to the boil and let the mixture stand on the
warm edge of the stove for 30 minutes. Mix in
the cold butter with a hand-held blender and let
stand 30 more minutes. Then strain and season to
taste with salt, pepper and sugar.

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DISH 111

RED GAMBERONI
YAMS I THAI CURRY I PAK CHOI I BERGAMOT

Gambe roni G reen Thai cu rry cream


PAGE 307

200g Granny Smith apples, finely chopped with


Yam puree peel
15g fresh, finely-chopped galangal
1kg Thai yams 8g ground turmeric
700ml milk 50g ripe, finely chopped bananas
100ml cream 70g yellow, madras curry powder
1 pinch of xanthan gum 20 ml olive oil
Salt, pepper 400 ml coconut milk, 50-80 ml more coconut milk
can be added to improve the consistency
Peel the yams, chop coarsely and boil them in the 4 finely-chopped kaffir lime leaves
milk and cream. Then drain the excess broth and 20 g coriander
beat the yams in the Thermomix to a fine puree. 1 stalk finely-chopped lemon grass
Bind with xanthan gum and season to taste with salt 150g roasted, flaked almonds
and pepper. 30 g green Thai curry paste
A few drops of green food colouring
Salt
Be rgamot gel 1 tbsp lime juice
2-5g grated ginger
200ml bergamot juice
200ml water Saute the apple, galangal, turmeric, bananas and
40 g sugar curry powder in olive oil. Add the coconut milk and
5g agar-agar simmer for about 30 minutes. Add the lime leaves,
5g gel Ian gum coriander and lemon grass and let stand for a
2g cassava further 10 minutes. Then strain the broth and mix
together with the roasted almonds and the Thai
Bring all ingredients to the boil, pour into a flat curry paste in the Thermomix until smooth. Colour
container and leave to cool completely. Then beat the mixture with some of the green colouring and
the mixture to a smooth gel in the Thermomix and freeze in Pacojet container for at least 12 hours.
pass through a fine strainer. Then pacotize three times, strain through a fine
sieve and, if necessary, stir in some coconut milk
to make it more creamy. Season to taste with salt,
lime juice and freshly-ground ginger.

Be rgamot auc e
_ _ --' =- _ _ _ _s_ _ _ _ __ PAGE 3 0 7

Gambe roni ta rta re

2 kitchen-ready gamberoni (see above)


1 tbsp olive oil
10g chives
Zest of ½ untreated lime
Salt, pepper, sugar

Dice the gamberoni into 3 x 3 mm pieces, season


to taste with olive oil, chives, lime zest salt, pepper
and sugar and using 2 spoons form into 8 equal­
sized servings. Store in a cool place until use.
MENU
VII

P ineapple salad Pak choi Garnish


PAGE 307

8 mini pak choi 24 fine spring onion rings


False sushi 25 ml vegetable broth (see page 344) 10 ml coriander oil (see page 348)
2 ml ginger syrup (from pickled ginger) 8 heads of atsina cress
1 head of pointed cabbage 2 ml lemon juice 8 bean blossoms
Salt 10 ml sake 8 violet blossoms
50 g butter 10 ml mirin 8 tbsp red Crustacean Sauce (see page 347)
Pepper, sugar 1 g salt
15 g finely-grated ginger 1 g sugar
6 shelled, kitchen-ready langoustine tails (size 1 tbsp vegetable oil
10/15)
Nutmeg Remove the large outer leaves of the pak choi
TO SERVE
30 g nut butter and cut off the stalk. Use all the other ingredients
1 tsp Fleur de Sel to make a broth. Stir-fry the pak choi in a hot pan,
add broth and then cook for about 2 minutes. Arrange the pineapple salad and the spring onion
Remove the outer leaves of the pointed cabbage, Season to taste with salt and sugar. rings on the stir-fried gamberoni and place in the
tear off 4 leaves, remove the stalk and cut length­ middle of a warmed plate. Then make an attractive
ways. Then blanch the leaves in boiling, salted arrangement of the warm steamed sushi, vege­
water for 20 seconds and then shock in ice-cold Crustacean chip tables, tartare, yam puree, Thai curry cream and
water. Make a slightly overlapping rectangle out of edamame. Dry off excess bergamot oil. Garnish
the leaves and use a rolling pin to flatten between 50 g lobster meat with blossoms, cress, crustacean chips, yam wafers
kitchen towels. Then cut the remainder of the 75 ml crustacean broth (see page 346) and balls. Lastly, pour over the hot red crustacean
cabbage into four pieces, remove stalk and cut 10 g lobster roe sauce and the bergamot sauce.
into 2 mm thick strips. Saute the strips in butter till 12 g tapioca flour
colourless and then season with salt, pepper and Salt, pepper, sugar
sugar. Then season to taste with ginger and soak up
excess liquid with a cloth. Slightly trim the prepared Mix the lobster meat and the broth in the Thermo-
langoustine tails at both ends and season lightly mix at 100 •c until smooth. Then add the remaining
with salt and pepper. Form the pointed cabbage ingredients and mix again. Season to taste with
strips into two 3 mm squares (10 x 8 cm) on a piece salt, pepper and sugar and pass through a fine
of clingfilm, place the langoustine tails in a row on strainer. Spread the mixture with a thickness of
the cabbage, then roll up in the foil and chill for 1 mm on a Silpat mat and dry in the dehydrator for
1 hour. Then place the prepared pointed cabbage 12 hours at 60 •c. Break into pieces to serve.
leaves on a piece of clingfilm, coat with nut butter
and season with salt, freshly-ground pepper and
nutmeg. Then roll in the unpacked pointed cabbage Glazed edamame
rolls and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Cut the rolls
into 2.5cm thick pieces and in a bamboo basket 20 g finely-diced shallots
steam at a low heat for 5 minutes over salt water. 3 tbsp vegetable oil
Spread with nut butter and season lightly with 100 g shelled edamame
Fleur de Sel to serve. 50 ml chicken stock (see page 345)
30 g butter
10 g chopped parsley
M r_ a_de Salt, pepper, sugar
_ _ a_ in
_ _ _,y_ a_m__
_ d PAGE 307

Saute the shallots in oil till colourless, then add the


edamame, fill with chicken broth and glaze with
butter. Finally add parsley and season to taste with
salt, pepper and sugar.

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VII

DISH IV

BLACK COD
OYSTERS
CAULIFLOWER
KOMBU

Black cod

Cauliflower

Cauliflower puree

Chive oil

Kombu

Kombu cream

Oyster leaves

Oysters

Umami broth

310

311
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BAU.STEINE DISH IV

Christian Bau loves fatty fish. And perhaps


none as much as the modest black cod.
The fish falls into segments at the slightest
touch and melts in the mouth like butter.
It is not difficult to prepare and in Bau's
most famous dish is a discovery of >Nobu<
Matsuhisa: >Black Cod Miso<. Bau's per­
sonal take on the dish is more elegant and
gives the fish more room. Very lightly can­
died, the fish is coated with a thin paste
of miso, honey, mirin and salt and torched
for a couple of seconds with a culinary
torch. This is a technique which is ideal for
halibut and cod. Extra flavour is provided
by the umami broth made of bonito flakes
and kombu and a delightful combination
of raw marinaded cauliflower and pickled
yuzu peel.
M

Black cod Cauliflower Umami broth


couscous

1 x 3-3.2kg black cod 300 g cauliflower 400 ml dashi (see page 347)
Salt, pepper 50 g candied kombu, finely chopped (see page 315) 4 ml Jakobs dashi (finished product)
1 L sunflower oil 20 g finely chopped yuzu peel (ready-prepared) 1.5 g bonito flakes
40 g miso paste (see page 349) 50 ml kombu broth 1 g kaffir lime leaves
Salt, sugar 2 g peeled ginger
Filet the black cod and prepare for cooking, 2.2g kombu
then divide into belly and back, and portion the Peel the cauliflower finely with a potato peeler and 0.5g Yuzu zest (or lemon zest)
back into 70-75 g pieces. Use the belly to make then chop very finely. Then combine with kom­ 3.5 ml white soy sauce
stuffing or something similar. Season with salt bu, yuzu peel and broth and season with salt and 1 large Gillardeau oyster with oyster water
and pepper and saute in a coated pan, then cook pepper. Marinade for 1 hour and then pass the 50 ml cream
until done oil at 54 ·c until it reaches a core tem­ broth through a fine sieve. Then scoop out (2cm 2g lecithin
perature of 42·c. Remove the fillets and coat diameter) hemispheres with a Parisienne scoop. Salt, cayenne pepper
with the paste, then sear for a short time with a
culinary torch at a very high heat. Heat the dashi to 70 ·c, then add all the ingre­
dients except the cream, lecithin and seasoning.
Let stand for 1 hour and then pass through a cloth
sieve. Add the cream and season with to taste
salt and cayenne pepper. Add the lecithin and beat
to a mousse with a hand-held blender.
Important: The broth should not be brought to a
boil as this leads to a loss in flavour.
DISH IV

BLACK COD
OYSTERS I CAULIFLOWER I KOMBU

Black cod Pickled cauliflower


- - - - - -PAGE 313

300g cauliflower
Umami broth Pickle-stock (see left)
----- -
PAGE 313

Cut the cauliflower into large florets and with the


Pickle-stock help of a vegetable slicer slice off 1-2mm thick
slices. Use the rest for cauliflower puree. Pour the
150ml water boiling pickle-stock over the slices and let stand for
75ml rice vinegar at least 24 hours.
25ml mirin
7g salt
7g sugar Cauliflower puree
3 juniper berries
5 peppercorns 700g cauliflower
2 bay leaves 200ml milk
1 pinch of xanthan gum
Bring all ingredients to a boil and use for the Salt, cayenne pepper, sugar
cauliflower.
Remove all the stalks from the cauliflower, use what
remains and chop coarsely with a knife. Pour the
cauliflower and the milk into a large vacuum pouch,
season lightly with salt, cayenne pepper and sugar
and vacuum as fiat as possible.
Then steam at 100·c for 30 minutes until soft.
Remove from pouch and pour into a sieve, in order
to remove excess liquid from cauliflower. In the
Thermomix, mix the cauliflower with xanthan gum
into a fine puree. Then reduce in a pot until no
longer runny. Season to taste with salt, cayenne
pepper and sugar and pass through a fine strainer.

Fried cauliflower

200g cauliflower
2 tbsp vegetable oil
10g butter
Salt, sugar

Cut the cauliflower into small florets and turn them


into 2cm diameter circles. Then fry slowly in oil in
a medium-hot pan. When the cauliflower is done,
raise the temperature, add the butter, seasons with
salt and sugar and fry until golden-brown.
MENU
VII

Cauliflower couscous Garnish


------- - - PAGE
- 313

8 bean blossoms
Candied kombu 8 heads of affilla cress
8 oyster leaves
1 leaf of wild kombu 30 ml chive oil (see page 348)
25ml sake
20ml mirin
75 ml dashi (see page 347)
50 ml soy sauce
35 g glucose powder
TO SERVE
5 g cane sugar

Soak the kombu for 2 hours in cold water, then cut Place the black cod in the middle of a warmed
into 2.5 x 2.5 squares. Put into a tall container. plate. Arrange the cauliflower puree, the couscous
Bring the remaining ingredients to the boil and pour and the fried florets attractively on the plate. Place
over the kombu squares. Cover the container with an oyster medallion on the fish, and complete with
aluminium foil and candy the kombu in the oven for kombu, kombu cream and the pickled cauliflower.
10 hours at 12o·c. Then let the squares cool and Then garnish with the blooms and the cress and
cut them into 1 mm strips and 8 2 x 2 squares. To drizzle with chive oil. Pour over hot, foaming umami
serve, reduce the broth into a syrup and warm the broth.
kombu.
Important: Don't boil any longer!

8 oysters (Gillardeau No 2)

Open and heat up the oysters in a saute pan to


42 •c in their own liquid. Then debeard the oysters.
Cut each oyster into 2 medallions and serve warm.

Kombu cream

200 g kombu with wasabi (ready-made)


200ml water

Simmer the kombu for 10 minutes in water. Then


beat the mixture to a cream in the Thermomix and
pass through a fine strainer.

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MENU
VII

DI SH V

CREAMY
KOSHIHIKARI
ABALONE
TRUFFLE
FOIE GRAS

Abalone

Crustacean jus, reduced

Foie gras terrine

Glazed truffle

Koshihikari rice

316

317
DISH V

CREAMY KOSHIHIKARI
ABALONE I TRUFFLE I FOIE GRAS

Abalone Foie gras >snow<

4 large, live abalones 250 g foie gras terrine (see page 349)
10 ml dashi (see page 347)
10 g light brown soy sauce Freeze the foie gras terrine for at least 6 hours at
10g kombu -18 •c. Then with a fine Microplane grater, grate
into a pre-cooled bowl and then immediately
Cut the abalones from their shells, wash, clean and freeze until needed.
hit gently with a tenderiser. Put the other ingre­
dients in a vacuum pouch and heat at 72 •c in a
bain-marie for 12 hours. Then cool off and cut into Koshihikari
1 mm thick slices. Before serving portions of 7-8
slices, bring to a temperature of 62 ·c in the Hold­ 400 g Koshihikari rice
a-mat for 10 minutes. 30 g finely diced shallots
1 tbsp vegetable oil
Salt
60 ml white wine
1.5 L chicken stock (see page 345)
50 g blanched vegetable brunoise (carrots, celery,
zucchini)
30 g black truffle, finely chopped
70 g cold butter
10 g chives, finely sliced
20 ml whipped cream
Pepper, sugar

Rinse the rice under the cold tap for 30 seconds.


Saute the diced shallots until colourless, then add
the washed rice and a little salt. Then add white
wine and boil until the liquid has evaporated. Mean­
while, add the hot chicken broth gradually, stirring
constantly. Keep filling up and simmer until the
rice is still slightly al dente (about 20 mins). To com­
plete, add the vegetable brunoise, truffle, butter,
chives and lastly the cream and season to taste
with salt, pepper and sugar.
MENU
VII

Glazed truffle
TO SERVE
120 g fresh, black truffles, (about 3 large units)
20 g butter
40 ml port Place the creamy Koshihikari in the middle of
40 ml madeira a warm plate with the help of a (8-9 cm diameter)
40 ml sherry ring and arrange the 8 pieces of glazed truffle
20 ml truffle juice around it. Put the abalones in a circle on the rice,
with the frozen foie gras snow in the centre
Clean the truffles and then crumble into at least and adorn with bean blossoms. Finally, scatter a
64 small pieces. Finely chop the crumbs and use in few drops of the crustacean jus around the plate.
the rice (see left).
Toss the pieces in the butter foam and then add
the remaining ingredients, cook until a bright shiny
glaze appears.

Garnish

8 bean blossoms
2 tbsp reduced crustacean jus (see page 346)

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MENU
VII

DI SH VI

DUCK FROM
>MONSIEUR MIERAL<
BLACK SALSIFY IN SAKE
BEETROOT
DIM SUM

Baby beetroot

Beetroot, marinaded

Black salsify

Dim sum

Duck

Duck sauce

Salsify puree

320

321
-

BAU.STEINE DISH VI

Bau's approach to the great classics is


most evident in his entrees. His goal is to
respect the product and to bring out its
specific characteristics. Unique ideas and
the chef's creative vanity are secondary.
Bau is also convinced that many tradition­
al techniques are superior to technical in­
novations. For Christian Bau, the key is the
following: Poultry should be roasted crisp­
ly on the carcass, while the legs should be
cooked separately until tender. The duck
legs in this recipe are cooked in their own
fat overnight to make the perfect filling for
dim sum - picked apart and filled with thick
duck jus and foie gras. A subtle flourish is
brought to the dish by the rich sauce from
the duck carcass and the lightly carame­
lised sake salsify.
MENU
VII

Dim sum Black salsify Duck sauce

Dim sum mixture 500ml milk 3 duck legs (skinless and boned meat), finely
Duck leg meat (see page 324) Juice of 1 lime chopped
150 ml ready-made duck sauce (see right) 24 thin, straight salsify roots 500g duck carcass
¼ clove of garlic 50g shallots, cut into line rings 50ml vegetable oil
1 tbsp curly parsley 1 tbsp vegetable oil 80g shallots, finely chopped
Salt, pepper 150ml sake 50g each of finely chopped carrots, celery, mush­
30ml mirin rooms
Remove the meat from the bones and pull into 40g butter 1 bay leaf
individual meat >threads<. Boil the leg meat with a Sugar, salt, pepper 5 juniper berries
little sauce into an even, creamy mixture. 1 tsp peppercorns
Meanwhile, chop the garlic and parsley finely and Mix milk and lime juice. Peel the salsify completely 1 sprig of rosemary
mix together. Season the leg mixture to taste and place it in the milk immediately. Then cut all 150ml red port
with salt and pepper and add the garlic-parsley the peeled salsify into 12cm long pieces, trimming 50ml madeira
mix to taste. the ends at a sloping 45· angle. Saute the shallots 80ml red wine
in oil till colourless, add the salsify, then add sake 750ml chicken jus (see page 345)
and mirin. Cover with baking paper and stew the 50g cold butter
Dim sum salsify till done. Take the salsify from the broth, dry 1 pinch of xanthan gum (if needed)
8 dim sum dough sheets (ready-made) it off and fry it in a pan with foamed butter and a Salt, freshly-ground black pepper
1 egg yolk little sugar until it is amber and then season it to ½ tablespoon beetroot granules
100g dim sum mixture (s. above) taste with salt and pepper.
20ml chicken stock (see page 345) Brown the duck leg meat and the carcasses in the
20g butter oil. Add the vegetables and seasoning and roast at a
Salt, pepper, sugar low heat for 8 -10 more minutes.
Gradually add the alcohol until almost completely
Process the dim sum dough once through the absorbed. Then pour in the chicken stock and
pasta maker, then coat with egg white and fill each simmer for about 1.5 hours. Constantly ladle off all
sheet with 12g of the dim sum mixture. Fold the the fat and foam from the sauce. Pass the sauce
filled leaves into half-moon shapes and close them through a line sieve and reduce it to about 300 ml.
using a dim sum press. Heat the dim sum gently in Then add in the cold butter and, if necessary,
a bamboo basket for about 4 minutes, then glaze in bind with 1 pinch of xanthan gum, season to taste
chicken broth and butter and season to taste with with salt and pepper and stir in the beetroot
salt, pepper and sugar. granules.

322
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DISH VI

DUCK FROM >MONSIEUR MIERAL<


BLACK SALSIFY IN SAKE I BEETROOT I DIM SUM

Duck Beetroot ball

2 whole 2-2.5 kg (Mieral Prince des Dombes) ducks 1 beetroot


with head and feet 20 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)
Salt, pepper Salt
750 g goose lard
200 ml vegetable oil Cut the beetroot into 1mm thick slices and with
40 g butter the help of a ring, cut out 16 (5 cm diameter) slices.
1 sprig of thyme Make a cut into the centre of each slice and mari­
1 sprig of rosemary nade with shiso vinaigrette and salt. Then form the
slices into balls.
Separate the ducks' breasts and legs and prepare
for cooking.
Season the duck legs with salt and pepper and Baby beets
gently roast them on all sides. Then cover the legs
in goose lard heated to 80 ·c for approximately 10 g juniper berries
8 hours. Remove the legs from the lard and leave 11 g coriander seeds
to cool for 3-4 hours. 3 g allspice grains
French the bones and make cuts into the skin. 80ml water
Season on both sides with salt and pepper, vacuum­ 110 ml white wine vinegar
seal and cook in a bain-marie for 23 minutes to 12 ml malt vinegar
64 ·c. Then leave the duck breasts a further 70 g sugar
30 minutes at 63 ·c in the hold-a-mat (without 1 g cardamom capsules
vacuum bags). Then crisp the skin side of the 2 g tarragon
breasts in a very hot pan with plenty of oil, and 1 g untreated lemon zest
then pan baste the meat side with butter, thyme 4 baby beets
and rosemary in another. Lastly, leave it alone in 20 g butter
the hold-a-mat for a further 5 minutes. Salt, sugar

Gently brown juniper berries, coriander seeds and


Duck sauce allspice in a pan. In a pot, bring the white wine
PAGE 323
vinegar, the malt vinegar and the sugar to a boil.
Then add seasoning and allow everything to cool to
Dim sum mixture room temperature. Strain the broth, add carda­
------- -
PAGE 323
mom, tarragon and lemon zest, let stand for 20
minutes and then strain again. Wash the beetroot
Dim Sum and turn into a circular form, then vacuum-seal
- ---PAGE 323
together with the broth and cook in bain-marie
for 8 hours at 75 •c. Rinse in ice-cold water and then
allow it to stand in broth for 24 hours. Then halve
the beetroots, reduce the broth, glaze the beet
halves and season to taste with salt and sugar.
MENU
VII

Black salsify
PAGE 323
TO SERVE

Salsify puree
Place the pieces of salsify next to each other on
1L milk a warm plate, then arrange the puree around it and
Juice of 1 lime garnish each piece of salsify with a chip. Put the
800g black salsify carved duck in the middle of the plate. Arrange the
150g shallots dim sum, baby beetroot and beetroot balls attrac­
30g butter tively next to it and garnish with the cress. Then
70ml white wine pour over the hot sauce.
200ml water
Salt, pepper, sugar
1 pinch of xanthan gum
40ml cream

Mix 800ml milk and lime juice Peel the salsify and
place it in the milk immediately. Then cut the
shallots and the peeled salsify into walnut-sized
pieces and saute till colourless. Add wine and
completely boil away the wine. Then fill with the
remaining milk and water, season with salt, pepper
and sugar, cover with baking paper and cook till
soft. Then strain and mix with the xanthan gum and
cream in the Thermomix until smooth. Reduce the
puree in a large pot until firm. Season to taste.

Salsify chips

2 thick salsify roots, well-scrubbed


500ml sunflower oil
Salt, sugar

Heat the oil to 160•c. Cut the salsify to 1 mm thick


slices and fry in oil till golden yellow. Season with
salt and some sugar and store in a dry and warm
place till needed.

Garnish

16 heads of affilla cress


8 small leaves of tiny red-veined dock

324
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325
MENU
VII

DISH VII

>JAPANESE
SNOWBALL<
RED SHISO
CAL PICO
YUZU SAKE

Calpico foam

Crunchy rice pearls

Ginger macaroons

Green shiso leaves

Pineapple ragout

Red shiso cress

Red shiso sorbet

Yuzu sake

326

327
DI SH VII

>JAPANESE SNOWBALL<
RED SHISO I CALPICO I YUZU SAKE

Red shiso sorbet Coriander oil

170 ml Yuzu juice 240 g fresh coriander


120 ml lime juice 120 g flat-leaf parsley
620ml water 400 ml sunflower oil
50 g glucose syrup 6 g salt
180 g sugar
9 g Super Neutrose Mix all ingredients in Thermomix to 80 'C. As soon
12 packs of red shiso cress as the temperature is reached, continue to mix
at the top setting for 2 minutes. Then put the
Mix yuzu and lime juice. Warm the water and mixture into a cloth strainer and freeze it in a small
glucose syrup to 40 'C and stir in the juice mixture. container. The oil can then be drained off (and the
Then mix the sugar with the Super Neutrose and unusable remainder freezes to the bottom).
gradually trickle it into the liquid. Heat everything
to 86 ·c. Let the mixture cool and then mix it in
a Thermomix with the shiso cress tips for 5 minutes Yuzu sake
till fine. Freeze in Pacojet container for at least
12 hours. Then pacotize until there are no more 1 pinch of xanthan gum
pieces of cress visible. 100 ml Yuzu Sake

Stirring constantly, gradually add the xanthan gum


Yuzu sake foam to the yuzu sake. Leave the mixture to soak for at
least 30 minutes.
11 gelatine leaves
150 g calamansi puree
50 g passion fruit puree Pineapple gel
300 ml yuzu sake
80 g powdered sugar 200 g pineapple puree
1,100 g Calpico (ready-made, Japanese liquid 50 ml pineapple juice
yoghurt or Greek yoghurt) 2.5 g agar-agar
2.5 g gel Ian gum
Soak the gelatine in ice-cold water. Bring the yuzu
sake and the powdered sugar to a boil and dissolve Bring all ingredients to the boil. Place the mixture in
the dried gelatine into it. the fridge to cool, then stir into a smooth gel in the
Mix with the Calpico or yoghurt and fill up an Thermomix. Then pass through a fine sieve.
iSi-Siphon. Load with 2 gas capsules and refrigerate
for at least 2 hours. Take out 30 minutes before
needed and let it warm to room temperature.
MENU
VII

Pineapple ragout

TO SERVE
80g pineapple
40g green peaches
5 g pineapple gel (see left) Place the pineapple ragout in a (5 cm) ring on the
1 g green shiso julienne plate and make a little depression in the middle.
Stir a couple of drops of coriander oil into the yuzu
Cut the pineapple and peaches into 2 x 2 mm dice sake and pour it around the ragout.
and carefully mix with the rest of the ingredients. Place a ball of shiso sorbet in the depression and
Store in a cool place until needed. surround the ball with the yuzu sake foam. De­
corate the sorbet with crunchy rice pearls and a
little shiso cress. Finally, arrange alternately 5
Ginger macaroons macaroons and the same number of shiso leaves
evenly around the ball.
300ml apple juice
30ml white balsamic vinegar
55 g egg whites
60g sugar
6g ginger

Grate the ginger with a microplane grater and mix


with the remaining ingredients in the mixer. Using
an icing bag, place small macaroons on a Silpat mat
and dry at 60·c for 12 hours in the dehydrator.

Garnish

8 large green shiso leaves


2 teaspoons crunchy rice pearls
1 pack red shiso cress

Cut out the shiso leaves with a 5 mm ring.

328
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329
DISH VIII

>SNICKERS
2018 <
PEANUT
CHOCOLATE
CARAMEL
MALOON SALT

Aerated chocolate

Caramel gel

Caramel paper

Chocolate drop

Chocolate sponge

Exotic gel

Maldon salt

Muscovado crumble

Peanut cream

Peanuts

Salted caramel

Salted caramel ice cream


BAU.STEINE DISH VIII

Every top chef probably has his or her own


culinary guilty pleasure. Christian Bau's
has a name: Snickers. The uniquely brilliant
combination of peanuts, chocolate and
caramel has concerned him for years - and
he has moved closer and closer to his ideal
year by year, seeking opportunities for
perfecting the dish, and refining it with­
out betraying its essentials. In its current
variation he combines the different cho­
colate preparations with salted caramel,
gilded peanuts, bitter muscovado and the
fruity-sour flavours of an exotic gel. At the
centre, however, is the timeless triad: a
chocolate drop stuffed with a liquid fill­
ing, a delicate honey-sweetened peanut
cream and a silky, salty and creamy cara­
mel ice cream.
MENU
VII

Peanut cream Salted caramel Chocolate drop


ice cream

Mixture 1 125g sugar 600ml milk


80ml milk 10g glucose syrup 40g sugar
180ml cream 12ml water 6g xanthan gum
70g egg yolks 125ml cream 160g dark couverture chocolate
20g sugar 125ml milk
100g honey 10g maltodextrin Bring the milk and sugar to a boil and stir in the
3 g Maldon salt xanthan gum. Then pour the hot liquid over the
Mix all ingredients in Thermomix to 85·c. 50 g egg white couverture chocolate and stir until smooth.
¾ of a sheet of gelatine, softened and squeezed Pour this into 2.2cm diameter hemisphere moulds
and freeze. Then remove the drops from the
Mixture 2 Boil the sugar and glucose to a caramel. Then, step moulds and stick a tooth pick into each one. Store
80g peanut butter by step, add water, cream and milk, and simmer in the freezer.
80ml milk for 5 minutes. Heat the maltodextrin, salt, egg
120g peanuts, roasted white and gelatine to 85•c in the Thermomix. Then
3 gelatine leaves, softened and squeezed add the caramel and mix for a short time. Put the Chocolate jelly coating
mixture in a Pacojet container and put it in the
Warm the peanut butter and milk, add the peanuts freezer for at least 12 hours. Pacotize as required. 420ml water
and bring to a boil once. Let the mixture sit for 80g sugar
2 hours and then bring to the boil a second time. 25g cocoa powder
Then dissolve the gelatine in the liquid. Then mix 25g vegetable gelatine
the first and second blends with a hand-held blen­
der and then strain them. Pour the mixture into Bring all ingredients to the boil and then set into
the prepared peanut-shaped silicon moulds and a gel until a skin forms on top. Pull the skin to the
freeze it for at least 12 hours. side and dip the drops into the mixture twice.
Store in a cool place till needed.

332
I
333
DISH VIII

>SNICKERS 2018<
PEANUT I CHOCOLATE I CARAMEL I M ALDON SALT

Peanut cream
-------PAGE 333
_C_h_oc_ o _ r_ o
_ la_ t_ e_ d _ __
p� PAGE 333

Salte d caramel ice cream


------ - - --- PAGE 333
_Ch
_ o _ la_ t_ e_ j_ e_ll_ y_ c_ o_a_ti_ng_ __ PAGE 333
_ c_ o

Musc ovad o crumble Sal te d caramel

300g soft butter 40g butter


300g flour 5g cocoa butter
150g muscovado butter 100g sugar
75g cane sugar 20g glucose syrup
60ml cream
Knead all the ingredients to an even crumbly dough 1g Maldon salt
by hand. Lay on an baking tray and bake at 180·c
for about 25 minutes. Melt the butter with the cocoa butter. Then add
the sugar and glucose syrup and bring to a boil .
Fold in the cream little by little and boil up to 116·c.
Then finally add the salt and pour the mixture onto
a greased baking tray.
When the caramel has cooled down, cut into 1 x 1cm
cubes.

Caramel gel

50g sugar
60ml cream
The pulp of 1 vanilla pod
50ml water
0.5g Maldon salt
0.5g agar-agar
0.5g gel Ian gum

Boil the sugar up to a light-brown caramel. Then


add cream and bring to boil with vanilla pulp. Bring
water, salt, agar-agar and gellan gum to the boil
and pour into caramel. Bring the mixture to a boil
once again and leave it to cool in a container.
Then beat the mixture to a smooth gel in the Ther­
momix and pass it through a fine strainer.
MENU
VII

Exotic gel Gold caramel peanuts

TO SERVE
100ml pineapple juice 100g halved peanuts, roasted
100g pineapple pulp 30g powdered sugar
50g mango pulp 1 pinch of gold powder Put a little exotic gel on the plate and then on
25g passion fruit pulp both sides lay one each of the fake peanuts,
25g brown sugar Caramelise the peanuts with the powdered sugar chocolate sponge, chocolate drop and aerated
Pulp from ¼ vanilla pod in a pan. Then let them cool separately on baking chocolate. Ensure that the peanut cream is at
3g agar-agar paper. Colour the cooled nuts with the gold pow­ the correct temperature. Sprinkle the muscovado
3g gellan gum der and store them in a dry cool place. crumble in the spaces and place the caramel gel
and exotic gel dots in an attractive arrangement.
Bring all ingredients to the boil and leave to cool Place 3 gold caramel peanuts and 3 salted caramel
in a container. Then beat the mixture to a smooth Caramel sweets cubes on top. Decorate with atsina cress, gold leaf
gel in the Thermomix and pass it through a fine and caramel sweet paper and place a large scoop
strainer. 100g caramel sweets (Werthers Originals) of salted caramel ice cream on top. Sprinkle a little
salt on the ice cream and the salted caramel.
Mix the sweets into a fine powder in the Thermo­
Chocolate sponge mix. Sprinkle the powder onto a Silpat mat and
bake at 180 ·c for 45 seconds. Store in a dry place
15g almond semolina till required.
15g sugar
8g cocoa powder
5g flour Garnish
100g egg white
1 pack of atsina cress
Mix up all ingredients for 5 minutes in the Thermo- 1 pack of gold leaf
mix at the top setting. Then pour mixture into an 1 g Malden salt
isi-Siphon, load with 4 gas capsules and chill for 4
hours. Spray into a plastic container and micro­
wave at 800 watts for 40 seconds. The mixture will
have now formed into a sponge shape. Remove the
sponge and mould to required size and then dry
in the oven for 2 hours at 80 •c.

Aerated chocolate

455g dark couverture chocolate


90ml sunflower oil

Melt the couverture chocolate with the oil, fill a


iSi-Siphon, insert 2 gas and 2 soda capsules. Then
spray the mixture into a frozen vacuum box and
vacuum seal. Stop the vacuum process when the
chocolate has reached the maximum height. Then
freeze immediately for 1 hour. Lastly break the
frozen chocolate into the required size and then
store in a cool place until required.

334
I
335
20 YEARS
VICTOR'S FINE DINING
BY CHRISTIAN BAU

It was on a Friday in the summer of 1991, more precisely


the 5th of July, when Christian Bau who'd just turned
twenty and his girlfriend Yildiz set off from the Black
Forest to Munich in an old red Renault R4. They had
been saving up for ages and their boss, Gutbert Fallert,
had made them a reservation for Eckart Witzigmann at
the >Aubergine<. A meal awaited them that, for Chris­
tian Bau, would turn out to be the initial spark for his
future professional life. They ordered the full menu,
an inexpensive bottle of rose lasted them the whole
evening. And then at last the chef came to see them at
the table, Witzigmann, the shining light. He ordered
champagne and joined his young colleagues. »Never be­
fore«, Bau writes today, almost three decades later, »had
I seen a chef who took such pride in being a cook, not
to mention the expansive, sincere charisma of the man.

336

337
From that day forth, it was absolutely clear to me what
I wanted to do with my life.«
Bau did what he needed to, worked harder than others
and achieved his aim sooner than expected. In April
1998, he became head chef at Schloss Berg in Perl-Nen­
nig. He was lucky enough to have a company - or rather
an employer - who didn't just see a top class restaurant
as a profit centre but appreciated its invaluable charis­
ma and the value of culinary excellence. He accepted
and supported the fact that Christian Bau sometimes
needed to run free, to get rid of the knife rests, the clas­
sical table music and the waiters in dinner jackets and
instead to experiment with Thai flavours and Japanese
seaweed and even to replace the menus with a >Carte
Blanche<. Bau gets to do it - and it works.
Today, in Autumn 2018, Christian Bau will have been
head chef for twenty years. Highly rated in every good
restaurant guide, with three Michelin stars since 2005

and Chef of the Year in all the significant publications,


from Feinschmecker to Gault&Millau. Praised for his
»cosmopolitan world-class dishes«, he has been hailed
as the »trendsetter of the industry«.
He will be celebrating his anniversary in a special way:
for one evening, the man who gave him that initial
spark will be coming to him by the Mosel. In October
2018, Eckart Witzigmann, chef of the century, will be
at the stove together with Christian Bau. And thus, the
circle will be complete.
338
I
339
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340

341
342
I
343
BASIC RECIPES

STOCKS, JUS & SAUCES

Mushroom stock 1 Mushroom cream

500 g white mushrooms Mushroom basic mixture (see left) 1st mixture
500 ml water Mushroom stock 2 (see left) 25 kg veal bones
500 ml chicken stock (see right) 50 ml Noilly Prat, reduced by half 1 baking tray of vegetables (carrots
Salt and shallot, quartered, celery stalks,
Pick the mushrooms to rough pieces 15 ml Chardonnay vinegar (Forum) white mushrooms)
and add to a tall pot. Cover with 80 ml vegetable oil
water and chicken stockand bring Distribute the veal bones flat on the
to the boil once with a pinch of salt. Mix the mushroom mixture with baking tray and roast in the oven at
Then leave to stand for about 4 hours some mushroom stock 2 to a smooth 200 ·c for about 90 minutes until
at 80 ·c. Bring to the boil again and mixture and season with Noilly-Prat dark. Roast the vegetables in a roast-
strain through a conical strainer. reduction, salt and Chardonnay ing pan. Pour off any fat which may
Firmly squeeze out the mushrooms. vinegar. Add vegetable oil in the mixer have come off the bones and place
Important: Retain the squeezed out as with a mayonnaise until the desired the bones with the vegetables in a
mushrooms! consistency has been achieved. Sea- pot and top up with water. Leave the
son again. mixture to simmer lightly for 24 hours
and then strain.
Mushroom stock 2
Vegetable stock 2nd mixture
250 g brown mushrooms 15 kg sawed veal tail
Complete mushroom stock 1 (see 3 L water 1 baking tray of vegetables (see 1st
above) 300 g carrots mixture)
200 g celery stalk 3 bottles red port
Pick the mushrooms to rough pieces, 200 g shallots 1 bottle madeira
add to a tall pot and top it up with 200 g mushrooms 1st mixture (see above)
cold mushroom stock 1. Bring to the 200g leeks
boil once leave to stand for about 4 2 bay leaves Distribute the sawed veal tail flat on
hours at 80 •c. Bring to the boil again 10 peppercorns the baking tray and roast in the oven
and strain through a conical strain­ 1 pinch of salt at 200 •c for-about 90 minutes. Roast
er. Important: Do NOT squeeze out the vegetables in a roasting pan,
mushrooms. Wash and clean the vegetables and add the port and madeira and reduce
chop into hazelnut-size pieces. Then by half. Then add the bones and
bring water, vegetables and season­ vegetables to a large pot and top up
Mushroom basic mixture ings to the boil once and leave to with the liquid from the 1st mixture.
stand on the side of the stove for 1 Leave everything to simmer lightly for
250 g mushroom remains from mush- hour. Finally strain and refrigerate 24 hours and then strain. Yields about
room stock 2 until use. 20 litres.
Mushroom stock 2 (see above)
4.5 g agar-agar
1 sheet of gelatine, softened and
squeezed out

Fill up the mushroom remains with


mushroom stock 2 to 1 kg total weight
and finely mix in the Thermomix at
80 •c. Add the agar-agar and mix
for another 3 minutes at 80 •c. Then
dissolve the gelatine in it and leave
the mixture to cool. Finally fill into a
vacuum pouch and vacuum-seal.
Chicken stock Chicken jus Game or chicken jus Fish stock

50ml sunflower oil 1 kg chicken carcasses, chopped into 50ml vegetable oil 1.5 kg fish carcasses (primarily turbot,
100g leek, coarsely chopped walnut-sized pieces 1 kg game or wildfowl bones, chopped dover sole or zander carcases}
100g celery stalks, coarsely chopped 500g chicken leg, chopped fine fine 200g onions, coarsely chopped
150g carrots, coarsely chopped 100ml olive oil 60g shallots 150g white part of leek, coarsely
100g mushrooms, coarsely chopped 350g shallots, diced into walnut-sized 150g carrots chopped
2 kg chicken bones, chopped fine pieces 100g leeks 150g celery stalks, coarsely chopped
200ml white wine 500g carrots, celery stalks and mush­ 60g mushrooms 5 large white mushrooms (use only
1 bunch parsley rooms, chopped into walnut-sized 1 tbsp tomato puree the white part}
1 sprig of thyme pieces and mixed in equal parts 1 sprig of thyme 5 cloves of garlic, crushed in the skin
1 spiked onion 2 thyme sprigs 2 bay leaves 1 sprig of thyme
2 L water 5 cloves of garlic, crushed in the skin 1 clove 2 fresh bay leaves
Salt 1 tbsp white peppercorns 6 white peppercorns 1 tbsp white peppercorns, crushed
2 tbsp tomato paste 6 juniper berries 75ml vegetable oil
Heat the oil in a pot and saute the 3 litres water 1 clove of garlic 2 L cold water
coarsely chopped vegetables in it until Salt 600 ml full-bodied red wine 500g ice cubes
transparent. Add the chicken bones, 30ml red wine vinegar
saute them and add white wine. Add the carcasses and legs to a roast­ 1 L water Clean the fish carcasses, soak and
Add the herbs and the spiked onion er and roast in oil in the oven at about chop finely. Braise the vegetables,
and pour in water. Salt and skim the 200·c, stirring occasionally. Once Heat the oil in a roosting pan, add the herbs and seasonings on moderate
foam which rises. Leave all of this to this mixture has taken on a golden bones and roast in a preheated oven heat in warmed vegetable oil in
simmer for about 1.5 hours, skimming colour, add shallot, vegetables, herbs at 220 •c stirring occasionally for a large flat pot until translucent. Add
occasionally. Strain the prepared and spices. Take care that none of the about 20 minutes. Chop the vegeta­ the fish carcasses and again braise
stock and refrigerate. ingredients take on too much colour bles coarsely, add and leave to roast until translucent. Pour water on this
or even burn! for 5 minutes. Add tomato paste, mixture, add ice cubes and slowly
Pour the mixture into a sieve, allow herbs and seasonings as well as garlic bring to the boil on moderate heat.
Chicken stuffing the fat to drip off and add to the and braise for another 10 minutes. Continuously skim the stock so that it
roaster again. Add the tomato paste Add red wine and red wine vinegar becomes clear. As soon as the stock
130g chicken meat (breast} and briefly roast together. Add and pour over water. Salt lightly, bring is boiling, reduce the heat, slide
50g foie gras everything to a large pot, top up with to boil and skim. Leave to simmer the pot to the edge of the stove and
150g cream water and salt lightly. Bring to the boil lightly for 1 hour on the stove at a low let stand for about 30 minutes. Then
Salt, freshly-ground black pepper once and skim the foam which rises. heat and occasionally skim the foam strain the stock thorough a cloth
Leave the stock to simmer for 3 hours from the stock. Strain the prepared or double fine sieve and preferably
Tip: When making a stuffing it is maximum and occasionally skim the stock through a sieve and refrigerate. store in airtight preserving jars in
important that all ingredients are well foam. Then strain and reduce to 1 the refrigerator.
cooled. litre.
Cut the meat and foie gras into small
dice. Add it to a bowl cutter, season
and puree finely. Add cream bit by
bit and process in the cutter until
you have a uniform mixture. Press
the stuffing through a fine sieve and
refrigerate.

344
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345
BASIC RECIPES

STOCKS, JUS & SAUCES

Shellfish essence Shellfish nage Shellfish jus

Carcasses of 5 Breton lobsters, 100 g celery stalks, diced into walnut­ 3 shallots, diced into walnut-sized
chopped fine sized pieces pieces
50 ml olive oil 1 fennel bulb, diced into walnut-sized 100 g celery stalks, diced into walnut­
50 g fennel, diced into walnut-sized pieces sized pieces
pieces 4 shallots, diced into walnut-sized 100 g white part of leek, diced into
2 shallots, diced into walnut-sized pieces walnut-sized pieces
pieces 3 mushrooms, diced into walnut-sized 3 mushrooms, diced into walnut-sized
2 mushrooms, diced into walnut-sized pieces pieces
pieces 100 g white part of leek, diced into 2 ripe tomatoes, cored
60 g celery stalks, diced into wal­ walnut-sized pieces 3 cloves of garlic
nut-sized pieces 50 ml olive oil 50 ml olive oil
60 g white part of leek, diced into 2 kg shellfish carcasses (preferably 10 white peppercorns
walnut-sized pieces langoustine pincers and lobster 2 bay leaves
50 g carrots, diced into walnut-sized carcases) 2 thyme sprigs
pieces 100 ml white wine 2 kg lobster or langoustine carcasses
2 tomatoes, cored 300 ml Noilly Prat 250 ml Noilly Prat
2 thyme sprigs 10 peppercorns 400 ml white wine
1 bay leaf 1 bay leaf 3 L water
10 peppercorns 1 sprig of thyme 500 ml tomato juice
Madeira, Noilly Prat, Cognac, white 3 L water 200 g cold butter
port Salt, cayenne pepper
600 ml fish stock (see page 345) Saute the vegetables in olive oil until
600 ml chicken stock (see page 345) translucent. Add the shellfish carcass­ Saute the vegetables in olive oil until
es and add white wine and Noilly Prat. translucent. Add spices, herbs and
Add the spices and herbs and top up shellfish carcasses. Add the Noilly
Clarifying mixture with water. Leave to simmer lightly Prat and white wine and top up with
for about 1 hour and strain through a water and tomato juice. Bring to
300 g fish meat, without skin and fine sieve. the boil once, skim, reduce the heat
bones (preferably zander) and leave to simmer lightly for about
3 egg whites 1.5 hours. Pass through a fine sieve
80 g celery stalks, chopped into and refrigerate.
brunoise Reduce the stock to a minimum
80 g white part of leek, chopped into (150-200 ml) for later use and add
brunoise the cold butter using a hand-held
80 g carrots cut into brunoise blender or blender. Season with salt
and cayenne pepper.
Saute the lobster carcasses in olive
oil, add vegetable, herbs and season­
ings and lightly saute together. Add
the alcohol and reduce to a third.
Then top up with fish and chicken
stock and allow to simmer lightly for
3-4 hours. Pass through a fine sieve
and allow to cool.
Grind the fish meat and mix with egg
white and vegetables. Slowly bring
the lobster stock to the boil with the
clarifying mixture and leave to stand
for about 1.5 hours. Strain through
a fine sieve with a cloth.
Red shellfish sauce Red reduction (for purple curry) Truffle jus Dashi

50 ml olive oil 2 bottles of red wine 50 g black truffle, chopped 8 L water


150 g butter 1 bottle of port 1 tbsp butter 160 g Kombu seaweed for dashi
100 g each shallots, carrots, celery, 700 ml dark grape juice Salt, pepper 160 g bonito flakes
chopped fine Add all the ingredients to a pot and 120 ml red port 10 tbsp white soy sauce
5 mushrooms, finely chopped reduce to 1.2 L. 60 ml madeira 10 tbsp rice vinegar
50 g fennel, finely-chopped 30 ml cognac 10 tbsp mirin
5 cloves of garlic, crushed 300 ml veal jus (see page 344)
1 tbsp black peppercorns Purple curry sauce Heat the water to 80 ·c, add the
500 g langoustine pincers and car­ Saute the truffle in foaming butter kombu seaweed and leave to stand
casses 30 shallots, chopped and season with salt and pepper. Add for 1 hour. Then take out the kombu
4 Roma tomatoes, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, halved the alcohol and reduce by a third. Top seaweed, add the bonito flakes to
250 ml white port 5 tbsp olive oil up with veal jus and again reduce by the water and again leave to stand for
80 ml Neilly Prat 2 cans of purple curry (80 g each) a third. 1 hour. Then strain the mixture. Finally
80 ml white wine 500 ml red wine vinegar add soy sauce, rice vinegar and mirin.
100 ml cognac 1.2 L red wine
750 ml fish stock (see page 345) 800 ml red port
200g cream 1 L red reduction (see above) Dashi beurre blanc
200 g double cream 700 ml highly reduced chicken stock
(see page 345) 250 ml white wine
Foam up the oil and butter, then 2.6 L veal jus 750 ml dashi plus 3 tbsp dashi (see
braise the vegetables, garlic and Xanthan gum above)
spices until translucent. Then add the Red beet granules 200 butter (1:1 salted and unsalted
langoustine pincers and carcasses and Salt, pepper, sugar butter)
cook for about 20 minutes, ensuring Cold butter Bonito vinegar
that nothing sticks to the bottom
of the pot. Add the tomatoes and Saute the shallots and garlic with olive Reduce the white wine by a third and
continue to cook for 3 more minutes. oil, dust with a little curry powder pour in 750 ml dashi. Then reduce to
Add alcohol and reduce to a mini­ and toast. Add red wine vinegar and 200 ml. Add the butter and season
mum, pour in the shellfish stock and top up with red wine, port and red with bonito vinegar and 3 tsp dashi.
shellfish jus and then reduce to about reduction. Reduce the liquid by
350 ml. Add the cream and double a half. Add the chicken stock and veal
cream, bring to the boil and then gen­ jus and reduce by a third. Then pass
tly simmer over a low heat for about through 2 conical sieves, bind lightly
45 minutes. Season to taste and strain with xanthan gum and colour with
through a fine strainer. beetroot granules. Then pass through
a micro sieve. Season to taste with
salt, pepper and sugar. Add the cold
butter before serving.

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BASIC RECIPES

OILS AND VINAIGRETTES

Dill oil Ginger oil Onion vinaigrette

200ml sunflower oil 500g ginger 100g shallots


120g dill 1 tbsp salt 100g leeks
60g parsley 1 tbsp sugar 2 tbsp sunflower oil
5g salt 1 L grapeseed oil 200ml white soy sauce
Chop up the ginger, mix with salt and 200ml mirin
Mix all ingredients in Thermomix at sugarand work in the oil. Then heat 200ml rice vinegar
80·c. Then strain and allow to cool in a pot to 70 •c and leave to stand 100 ml Kolyu leek oil (ready-made
in the freezer. Carefully remove for 4 hours at a uniform temperature. product bought from an Asian super­
the solid oil from the frozen mixture Then leave the oil to stand in a warm market)
and keep refrigerated. place for 24 hours, strain and pour
off to free the oil from the sediment Finely chop the shallots and leeks
which has settled at the bottom. and sweat in sunflower oil. Add soy
Chive oil sauce, rice vinegar and Kolyu leek
oil, vacuum seal and leave to stand for
120g parsley Miso oil at least 24 hours. Strain before use.
240g chives
400ml sunflower oil 1 L sunflower oil
6g salt 100g light miso paste Lemon vinaigrette

Mix all ingredients in Thermomix at Mix the sunflower oil and miso paste. 1 lemon
80 ·c. Then strain through a cloth Double vacuum-seal and let stand 2 limes
sieve and immediately put in the at 80 ·c in a bain-marie for 4 hours. Salt, freshly-ground black pepper,
freezer to go cold. Carefully remove Then cool down in iced water. sugar
the solid oil from the frozen mixture 500ml olive oil
and keep refrigerated.
Daikon radish oil Squeeze the citrus fruits, pour the
juice into a bowl, season with the
Coriander oil 120g daikon cress seasonings and mix with the olive oil.
60g parsley Refrigerated and leave to stand for
50g coriander leaves 200ml vegetable oil 24 hours.
25g parsley leaves 3g salt
200g vegetable oil
2g salt Cut the cress from the pack. Chop Shiso vinaigrette
up the parsley coarsely and mix with
Mix all ingredients in Thermomix at cress, oil and salt at 80 •c in the 200 ml rice vinegar
60 ·c. Then strain and allow to cool Thermomix. Then drain through a fine 200ml mirin
in the freezer. Carefully remove sieve and freeze. Carefully remove 130 ml white soy sauce
the solid oil from the frozen mixture the solid oil from the frozen mixture 10 bulbs of garlic with skin, halved
and keep refrigerated. and keep refrigerated. 30 large green shiso leaves, coarsely
chopped
20g bonito flakes
Garlic oil 1.5g xanthan gum
550 ml grapeseed oil
1 garlic bulb Salt, pepper, sugar
200ml sunflower oil
Salt Bring the rice vinegar, mirin and soy
sauce to the boil with the garlic. Add
Chop the garlic coarsely, vacuum with shiso leaves and bonito flakes and
a pinch of salt and leave to stand for leave to cool. Strain it and bind lightly
24 hours. with xanthan gum. Strain again and
carefully stir in the grapeseed oil.
Season to taste with salt, pepper and
sugar.
BASIC RECIPES

MISCELLANEOUS

Preserved (savoury) lemons Foie gras terrine Vegetable espuma

4-5 unwaxed lemons 2.5g foie gras 200g vegetable puree


150g coarse sea salt 250ml white port 4ml lemon juice
Pate seasoning salt 5g mustard
Cut crosses into the lemons and add Pickling salt 2 eggs
to a closable sterilised jar. Add the Freshly-ground white pepper 120ml grape seed oil
sea salt and pour water over so that 40ml miso oil (see left)
the lemons are covered. Close the jar Remove the skin from the foie gras, Salt, pepper, sugar
and store at room temperature for open up and remove large veins and
at least 6 weeks. To use them further, vessels. In the meantime reduce Mix the vegetable puree with lemon
take the lemons out of the salt the port to about 80 ml and refrig­ juice, mustard and eggs to a uniform
solution, remove the fruit pulp and erate. Weigh out 10g of the pate mixture in a Thermomix. Then drizzle
use only the preserved, soft lem- seasoning salt and 6g of the pickling in grapeseed oil and miso oil in a
on peel. Cut it into thin stripes or salt for every kilogram of skinned and ribbon and emulsify. Finally, season
dice and blanch briefly in water. The cleaned foie gras and salt and pepper to taste with salt, pepper and sugar.
preserved lemon thus develops a the cleaned liver on both sides. Line Fill the mixture into an iSi-Siphon, gas
pleasant, highly aromatic flavour a container with foil, brush with with 2 capsules and keep warm until
which is especially suitable for fish port syrup and layer in the cleaned, use at 65·c in a bain-marie.
or chicken. seasoned liver without allowing it to
overlap. When the base is covered,
brush again with port syrup and lay in Miso paste for searing
Caramelised nuts the next layer of liver.
Repeat this procedure until the liver 85g light miso paste
3 x 70g lsomalt and port syrup are used up. Then 17g honey
100g chopped hazelnuts cover with foil and leave to marinate 17ml mirin
100g halved hazelnuts overnight in a cool room. 8.5g salt
100g whole hazelnuts After 12 hours empty the liver out
3 pinches of gold powder and press into a lined terrine mould. Mix all the ingredients and refrigerate.
Double vacuum seal and cook it for Stir up again before use. After cook­
For each of the types of nuts, put 35 minutes at 60·c in steam. Immedi­ ing, brush the fish on the filet side and
70g Isom alt in a pan with the 100g ately put into iced water and cool for caramelise the paste with the culinary
of the nuts and caramelise. Then 24 hours. torch.
spread out the caramelised nuts on
baking paper so that they do not stick
together and colour with 1 pinch
each of gold powder.

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349
TEAM

A team for the Champions League:


Rene Vogl, John Troupis, Gerald
Schoberl, Mina Guc;:luer, Simon Reich­
mann, Christian Bau, Elisa Monteiro,
Manuel Pichler, Sarah Hackenberg,
Libby Quetsch (from left to right).
Christian Bau demands the utmost
from his staff, which is now female
to a gratifying extent. Every day
he shares the things that mark him
out as a chef; burning ambition,
meticulous craftsmanship and un­
compromising striving for perfection.
High-performance cooking is a
top-class sport. The only thing that's
more important than the ability to
withstand stress is passion.

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351
THANKS

I would like to express special thanks to:

to my beloved wife and best friend Yildiz and my Dominik Sabel & done by people, who were always
two angels Katharina and Lisa-Marie. You give me able to give the ideas we developed together the
the strength and energy I need, you're my balance right setting in images and design.
and motivation. Thank you for your constant sup­
port and sacrifice - without you I would not have Julia Bauer, Redaktionsburo Kuchenzeile, for the
been able to make it to where I am today. Love you perfect phrasing - always the right word and symbol
so much! in the right place.

our second family, the team! My sincerest thanks go the hosts and friends on our trips, in particular, M.
not only to current but also all former employees! Pacaud, the Fritz family, Bettina Keller and Araki
Gastronomy is teamwork - so every chef is only Sam.
as good as his/her team. I am grateful, proud and
humbled by the team spirit, loyalty and the constant all my dear friends, especially Lars Ammer, Daniel
support and that I, as the >team coach<, have been Kiowski, Nina Mann, Prof. lngo Scheuermann and
privileged to achieve our common aims and visions Dirk Spoerhase-Eisel. You have always been there
together with you. for me and are kindred spirits, support, sounding
boards, counter-balances and inspiration in equal
the management of the Victor's group of companies, measure. Thank you for existing!
in particular to Hartmut Ostermann and Susanne
Kleehaas without whose vision and feeling for con­ our sponsors, Gosset Champagne, Lavazza Espresso
temporary hospitality and cuisine we would never & Pellegrino/Aqua Panna without whose support we
have achieved what we had always dreamed of. would not have been able to create this work as it is.

Dr. Christoph Wirtz for his informative and enter­ the colleagues in the Victor's group of companies
taining text as well as his support from the beginning for their identification with our work, their consist­
of the project. Thanks for the constantly construc­ ent help and their support and also implementation
tive, insightful and helpful exchange of views. I really of one mad idea after another.
appreciated every minute!
our producers and suppliers - what would we be
my dear friends Lukas Kirchgasser and Stefanie without their commitment, service and love of de­
Primessnig for their extraordinary visual and culinary tail. It is our aspiration to bring the best ingredients
sensitivity. You always had the right vision and knew and victuals to Schloss Berg with the help of our
how to implement your ideas perfectly! Right from partners.
the beginning it was always so good, so motivating
and pleasant to work with you - I would happy to do our beloved guests who are always the stimulus,
it again at any time! drive and inspiration for our day-to-day activity! We
want to make people happy with our work.
Matthaes Buchverlag and in particular the Publish­
ing Director Bruni Thiemeyer, who shared my vision
right from the beginning and also perfectly realised
it. Thanks for the thoroughly enjoyable collaboration!

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353
THE CREATIVE ONES

CREATIONS AND RECIPES CONCEPT AND TEXT

CHRISTIAN BAU DR. CHRISTOPH WIRTZ

Born in 1971, after his training, Chris­ Dr. Christoph Wirtz has been involved
tian Bau first worked in the >Talmi.ihle< with the European cultural heritage of
Hotel-Restaurant in Sasbachwalden. pleasure for around 20 years - among
In 1993, in the >Schwarzwaldstube< in others as a regular columnist at WELT/
Baiersbronn, he found a great teacher WELT am SONNTAG, Stern and Park
in Harald Wohlfahrt and became his Avenue magazine, BEEF!, Stern-Viva!
sous chef. Since 1998, Bau has been or DER FEINSCHMECKER. He is the
Head Chef and Host in >Victor's Fine originator and chair of the committee
Dining<, the gourmet restaurant at for awarding the >Walter Scheel Medal
Schloss Berg and in the same year for the Culture of pleasure and Lifes­
he received his first Michelin star. In tyle<, which has been awarded to such
2005, aged 34, he became Germany's luminaries as the Haeberlin family,
youngest three-star chef. Today, Bau Angelo Gaja, Hugh Johnson, Georg J.
has the highest ratings in all gourmet Riedel, Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger,
guides, he has been awarded >Chef Eckart Witzigmann, Giannola Nonino
of the Year< on numerous occasions and the Gillardeau family in previous
and in 2018 at Schloss Bellevue he was years: www.walter-scheel-medaille.de.
presented with the German Order of
Merit by Frank-Walter Steinmeier,
President of Germany. Christian Bau is
married to Yildiz Bau who manages the
service in the restaurant. They have
two daughters.

IMPRINT

d fv'Matthaes
Verlag

ISBN 978-3-87515-431-3 Creations and recipes: Christian Bau


Concept and text: Dr. Christoph Wirtz
© 2018 Matthaes Verlag GmbH, Stuttgart - Introduction: Hartmut Ostermann
a dfv media group company
Photography and image processing: Lukas Kirchgasser,
All rights reserved. Stefanie Primessnig
Photo Seite 9: Wolfgang Klauke
Reprinting, even as extracts, as well as distribution Photos Seite 340-343: Victor's Archiv: B. Heinz, G. Spans
by television, film and radio, by photocopy, recording Photos Seite 357 (r.l: Roman Knie
medium or data processing systems of any kind is only
permitted with written permission from the publisher. Design and typesetting: done by people
Editing: Redaktionsbi.iro Ki.ichenzeile, Julia Bauer
PHOTOGRAPHY DESIGN

LUKAS KIRCHGASSER DONE BY PEOPLE


STEFANIE PRIMESSNIG Done by people is a design agency for
visual communication with the aim to
Behind >Kirchgasser Photography< hide
produce clear and persuasive design.
the creative heads of Lukas Kirch­
The agency is managed by the two
gasser and Stefanie Primessnig. This
experienced designers Dominik Sabel
perfect team of photography and
and Elmar Birk. They see creative so­
marketing is connected both by their
lutions and good design as a guarantee
passion for their work and by their
for commercial success.
shared aim to set a perfect stage for
They and their work has been published
excellent food. As partner to the cli­
in the specialist press and awarded
ents they accompany them during
numerous prizes. Among others, the
the whole process from planning and
book >Vegetarisch< was nominated
conceptualization all the way to the
for the German Design Award. They
technical realization and post produc­
have realised food-related projects
tion. The list of their customers reads
for Jeunes Restaurateurs, Ketschauer
like a Who is Who of good taste and
Hof, El Celler de can Roca and Heiko
includes, alongside top chefs and res­
Antoniewicz, among others.
taurants, advertising agencies, premi­
um brands as well as luxury hotels. But
see for yourself and visit www.kirch­
gasser-photography.com

356
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>>WE WANT
TO MAKE
PEOPLE HAPPY
WITH OUR
WORK<<

CHRISTIAN BAU
>>do things with passion -
or not at all!«

Christian Bau is a chef of exceptional rank; head chef


and patron of Victor's Fine Dining at Schloss Berg in
Perl/Nennig for the last 20 years, honoured with three
Michelin stars for the last 13 years, Gault-Millau >Cook
of the Year< in 2018 and bearer of the German Order of
Merit. So, it's time to record the current state of his cu­
linary art in 56 incomparable dishes - modern classics,
they are shaped by their French basis as well as by Asian
influences. But above all by an uncompromising obses­
sion with detail.

28 excerpted dishes - Bau.Steine - comprehensibly illus­


trate the key components and essential principles of
Bau's cuisine. Supplementary text by Dr. Christoph Wirtz
guides one to a deeper insight into Christian Bau's culi­
nary understanding. Lukas Kirchgasser's brilliant imagery
makes this book into an aesthetic treat.

II 1
ISBN 978-3-87515-431-3

9 783875 154313

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