Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Christian Bau BAU STEINE Оптимизированная PDF
Christian Bau BAU STEINE Оптимизированная PDF
BAU.STEINE
CREATIONS AND RECIPES: CHRISTIAN BAU
CONCEPT AND TEXT: DR. CHRISTOPH WIRTZ
PHOTOGRAPHY: LUKAS KIRCHGASSER
v;·c:t9r�
FINE
DINING
BY CHRISTIAN BAU
CHRISTIAN BAU
CONTENT
121 LANGOUSTINE
29 GREEN ASPARAGUS 74 TORO TUNA KOSHIHIKARI I DAIKON I DASHI BE-
BLANC< DASHI
95 BLACK FOREST
49 >SPRING AWAKENING<
CHERRIES
RHUBARB I BERRIES I BUTTERMILK 147 DARK CHOCOLATE
HOMMAGE TO BACK HOME
OLIVE Oil I CALAMANSI I
FLEUR OE SEL
INTRODUCTION /
The title of this unique book, with its innovative recipes and impressive photos, is a play
on-words in German: Christian Bau, voted Chef of the Year in 2018, whose name means
>build< has literally cleared some blockages in making his path. The art of cooking must
move with the times. But the somewhat stiff presentation which used to be the norm in
fine gastronomy created a blockage - going as far as to create a certain fear of entering the
>Star temples< - particularly for those guests for whom pleasure without any feeling of
compulsion is paramount. Until the Bau era began, in 1998 in >Victor's Gourmet-Restaurant
in Schloss Berg< ...
Because the development of >Victor's Fine Dining by Christian Bau< which has now been
under his tried-and-tested management for 20 years, demonstrates that a finely balanced,
natural nonchalance considerably increases enjoyment and it can nonetheless be accompa
nied by outstanding perfection and exceptional creativity. The loyal long-standing guests
and the continually growing crowds of new fans should be the highest compliment for
him and also encourage him to continue with his love of experimentation and desire for
maximum performance.
The 3-star cook himself likes to describe his cuisine as light, contemporary and metropolitan.
I am very happy to confirm that these attributes hold true. To you, the reader of this lovingly
created book, I wish hours of interesting reading and lots of fun trying out one or another of
these culinary surprises.
Hartmut Ostermann
Founder und Chairman of the Supervisory Board of the Victor's Group
SCHLOSS BERG
10
11
12
I
13
EXCERPTED DISHES
BAU • STEINE
Hit-lists are not an option where issues of culture pheral location at the far west of Germany - within
are touched on. Whether Monet should get more earshot of France, Belgium and Luxembourg. It most
points than Matisse, whether Wagner should be certainly also comes from Bau's grounded training
ranked higher in the opera rankings than Verdi (and and his personality structure. Effects are not his
if so, where?) - there's no sensible answer to this. thing, nor highbrow experiments or empty artistry.
Naturally, the art of cooking it's just the same - This stance must be boring for those who confuse
objectivity remains an illusion. Which, of course, innovation with substance. The remainder will find
doesn't mean that there are no benchmarks to in this book a collection of masterly formulated
measure from! If you follow the judgement of all menus, among which there's not one dish which
the relevant publications, in 2018, Christian Bau is doesn't taste outstanding - if precisely followed. A
at the peak of culinary development in Germany. somewhat unique characteristic.
>Chef of the Year<, top rated in all guides from Lon However the bit about following precisely is a bit of
don to Seoul , on this his 20th anniversary as a chef an issue. What comes across as so appetising and
Bau can look back on a spectacular evolution. He light, harmonious and elegant is the natural; result
is among the few chefs in this country whose clear of great skill and often virtually absurd effort. No
signature is always unmistakable and who has pro body could expect that these plates which Christian
vided innumerable colleagues with inspiration or a Bau works on all day along with ten cooks can be
template for more or less successful plagiarisms. In easily copied at home at the home stove. However
October, he was presented with the German Order this book offers more than just aesthetic enjoyment.
of Merit by the President of Germany. »As a master Because the gratifyingly unpretentious Christian
of cooking culture and as a culinary ambassador, he Bau doesn't just think in terms of a sacrosanct to
makes an outstanding contribution to a positive im tal art work, there are exemplary excerpts from his
age of Germany« as it said in the official statement. dishes in every chapter which illustrate highlight
So, it's time to record the current status. ed aspects of Bau's cuisine - products, techniques
In 2018, Bau's oeuvre is characterised above all by and fundamental ideas. Above all Bau's cuisine is a
the greatest possible technical cooking effort, the logical, disciplined cuisine. Grounded, meticulously
most precise craftsmanship and uncompromising thought-out and tested. Because every component
obsession with details. Asiatic influences - Japanese of his dishes must be tasty, because nothing is al
techniques and products, the aromatic abundance lowed on his plates good reason, nothing is just a
of Thailand - still play a major role. At the same time, decoration, they make it possible to present funda
the classical French basis has become more obvious mental concepts and make them comprehensible. In
again with the years. Not as a step backwards but these excerpted dishes basic building blocks of an
as a confident, conscious decision. It's clear that impressive oeuvre - not systematically but intended
the days when Christian Bau had to prove himself to stimulate - are presented.
to everyone are long past. »I just want to cook what
I myself like to eat« he says confidently today, »and Dr. Christoph Wirtz
above all not go over the guests' heads!« Maybe this Freiburg in Breisgau, Summer 2018
consciousness comes from his restaurant's peri-
>JAPANESE ROCK AND VEGETABLE GARDEN<
RAW AND PICKLED VEGETABLES I ICED CORIANDER I PONZU
CHAR [IKEJIME]
HERBS I KOHLRABI I HORSE RADISH
HALIBUT
PEAS I MORELS I CHICKEN I VIN JAUNE
CHAWANMUSHI
SNAILS I MUSHROOMS I GARLIC CHIVES
>SPRING AWAKENING<
RHUBARB I BERRIES I BUTTERMILK
DI SH I
>JAPANESE ROCK
AND VEGETABLE
GARDEN-<
RAW AND PICKLED VEGETABLES
ICED CORIANDER
PONZU
Garden cress
18
19
DISH I
Bring the water with the kombu to the Stir the silver powder into the water Mix all the ingredients into a fine
boil. Let it stand for 15 minutes and until a viscous silver dye is created cream in the Thermo mix at 85·c.
then strain. Bring to the boil again, and then bind with xanthan gum. Paint Season to taste with salt and pass
add the bonito flakes, let it stand 15 the frozen stones with silver dye, through a fine strainer.
minutes again and strain again. ensuring that they're completely cov-
ered without any gaps. Freeze again.
As soon as the dye is frozen, blacken Soy cucumbers
Stones with octopus ink. Freeze again and
(Note: The recipe will produce some store in freezer until required. In or 1 cucumber
40 stones) der to serve at correct temperature, 1 tbsp salt
place on plates covered with clingfilm 50ml low-salt soy sauce
40 ml kombu water (see above) 30 minutes before use. 50ml mirin
30g miso paste 25 ml rice vinegar
30g passion fruit puree
10ml yuzu juice Ponzu gel Halve the cucumbers lengthwise,
240ml cream remove centre, cut into 1.5mm slices
25g egg yolk 250ml chanponzu and place in salt. Leave for 1 hour
20g sugar 125ml water and then squeeze out the remaining
2g salt 40g sugar water. Stir the soy sauce, mirin and
2.6g Iota 4g agar-agar rice vinegar into a marinade and then
2 sheets of gelatine, softened and 4g gel Ian gum vacuum-seal with the cucumbers. Let
squeezed 2 g cassava stand for 12 hours and then drain.
Heat the kombu water, miso paste, Bring the chanponzu, water and sugar
passion fruit puree, yuzu juice, 40ml to the boil and bind with agar-agar, Vegetable rolls
cream, egg yolk, sugar and salt in the gellan gum and cassava. Leave to cool
Thermomix to 50·c. Bring the 200ml and mix in Thermomix until cool. 2 carrots
cream and Iota to the boil and pour ½ yellow radish (finished product)
the mixture into the Thermomix while ½ white radish
still running. Lastly, add the gela Avocado cream
tine. Then strain and pour the warm Cut the vegetables as follows: 1 mm
mixture into silicon moulds and blast 3 ripe, peeled avocados with stones thick, 10cm long, 1 cm wide. Store the
freeze. Release from moulds when removed yellow radish in its own juice.
frozen. 70g yoghurt
10g chervil
Note silicon moulds: Make your own 5g tarragon
moulds using food-grade-silicon and 10g coriander
small white stones (2.5-3 cm diame 10g basil
ter; 1.5-2 cm high). Juice of 1 lemon
Salt, pepper, sugar
Vegetables for pickling Seared white radish and garden Chive oil Garnish
radish slices
1 bunch of radishes: cleaned, de 120g chives 1 pack each of: Atsina, affilla, red
pending on size, cut into four, six or 200g peeled white (thick) radish 60g broad leaf parsley shiso, daikon and garden cress and
eight pieces 8g garden radish 200ml sunflower oil rock chives
½ lotus root: 1mm slices, cut out in 3g salt
circles and quartered Cut out (1 cm diameter) slices from
½ cauliflower: florets, sliced 1mm the white radish with an apple corer Mix all ingredients in Thermomix to
thick and blacken completely with a culi- 80·c. Once this temperature is
10 white asparagus tips cleaned and nary torch. Then cut into 2mm thick reached, continue to mix for 3 min
TO SERVE
quartered slices. Clean the garden radishes and utes. Then strain through a cloth
1 pack of beech mushrooms: cleaned, then also cut into 2mm slices. strainer and cool the remaining oil in
leaving about 6mm stalk a blast freezer. Then the oil can be Place 2 stones on a cool plate, posi
100 g Chinese artichokes, cleaned and drained off (the unusable remainder tioned at 6 and 12 o'clock. Then place
washed Coriander ice pearls freezes to the bottom). the soy cucumbers at 3 o'clock and fill
4 stalks of fermented burdock (fin- the gaps in a circle with the prepared
ished product): cut into 4 mm, oblique 25g basil vegetable rolls (carrots, radish, yellow
slices and stored in own juice 25g coriander 150 ml shiso vinaigrette radish). Then arrange the remaining
PAGE 348
75g ginger vegetables decoratively in the vegeta
1 stalk lemon grass ble circle and adorn with dabs of the
Vegetable stock for pickling Zest of 1 untreated lime Kojyu vinaigrette ponzu gel, avocado cream and kimizu.
Untreated kaffir lime zest Place the different types of cress on
600ml water 1 kaffir lime leaf 1 shallot the rolls and marinade the vegetable
300ml rice vinegar 5g galangal 50g white part of leek garden with shiso and kojyu vinai
100ml mirin Vegetable oil 100ml Japanese leek oil grette. Lastly, trickle the chive oil onto
30g salt 100ml milk 50ml mirin the plate and scatter the coriander
30g sugar 50ml coconut milk 50ml mizkan vinegar ice pearls on the marinated vegetable
10 juniper berries 1 egg yolk 50ml white soy sauce garden.
20 white peppercorns 1 g Super Neut rose 1 pinch of Xanthan gum
6 bay leaves 1 sheet of gelatine, softened and 10g tapioca pearls
squeezed 10g chives, finely chopped
Bring all ingredients to the boil and
pour the boiling mixture over the Blanch the basil and coriander. Lightly Lightly saute the shallots and leek
prepared vegetables (except the saute the lemon grass, lime zest, a in 25 ml leek oil until colourless, then
yellow radish rolls and the burdock). little kaffir lime zest, kaffir lime leaf add mirin, vinegar and white soy
Let the vegetables stand for 48 hours and galangal in a little oil and add mild sauce.
and then store in a cool place. and coconut milk. Bring to the boil Then vacuum-seal and let stand
and then let stand for 20 minutes. for 48 hours. Then strain and bind
Then strain and mix in Thermomix with with xanthan gum in order to create
the blanched herbs at 80·c. Increase the base. Combine base with the
the temperature to 85 ·c and add the remaining leek oil in a ratio of 2:1
egg yolk, Super Neutrose and gelatine (2 parts liquid, 1 part leek oil) to
to thicken the mixture. Then strain use as a vinaigrette. Lastly, boil the
and leave to cool. Using a spray bot tapioca pearls until translucent and
tle, trickle the coriander mixture into then stir into the vinaigrette with
liquid nitrogen in order to create the chives.
the pearls. Then with a skimmer care
fully remove the pearls, place them
on a plate and freeze until needed.
20
I
21
MENU
DI SH II
CHAR
[IKEJIME]
HERBS
KOHLRABI
HORSERADISH
Buttermilk dashi
Char
Char caviar
Citrus gel
Dill oil
Herb salad
Horseradish
Kimizu
Kohlrabi
22
23
BAU.STEINE DISH II
24
I
25
DISH II
CHAR [IKEJIME]
HERBS I KOHLRABI I HORSE RADISH
Kimizu
75ml mirin
64ml mizkan vinegar
180 g egg yolk
Salt, sugar
TO SERVE
26
I
27
MENU
I
DISH 111
GREEN ASPARAGUS
>MONSIEUR
ROBERT BLANC<
RED SUMAC
YUZU
MI SO
Green asparagus
Miso caramel
Miso hollandaise
Red sumac
Yuzu confit
Yuzu zest
28
29
DISH Ill
Green asparagus
Miso caramel
Yuzu confit
50 g sugar
50 g light miso paste 35 g candied yuzu
12 g light soy sauce 15 g yuzu gel (see above)
12 ml passion fruit juice
Salt Chop the candied yuzu finely and add it to the yuzu
gel.
Make a bright caramel out of the sugar, then
add the miso paste, soy sauce and passion fruit
juice and stir until smooth. Then strain and Miso hollandaise
season to taste with a little salt.
80 g whole eggs
20 g egg yolk
60 g light miso paste
250 g liquid butter
Salt
Put whole eggs, egg yolk and miso paste into a tall
container. Beat the liquid butter with a hand-held
blender and season to taste with a little salt.
Put into a iSi-Siphon, load with 2 gas capsules and
store at 57 ° C.
MENU
Shiso vinaigrette
TO SERVE
65ml white soy sauce
100ml mirin
100ml rice vinegar Marinate the cooked asparagus with the shiso
5 cloves of garlic vinaigrette over a low heat and season to taste with
10g bonito flakes salt and sugar. Arrange 3asparagus spears in parallel
15 large green shiso leaves lines on a warmed plate, spray a thin strip of miso
Xanthan gum caramel and place 2 pieces of yuzu peel on each
225ml grape seed oil one. Sprinkle an even amount of red sumac around
the asparagus. Place 2 servings of yuzu confit on
Bring all the ingredients except for the xanthan gum the plate. Garnish with violet blossoms and a dab of
and the grape seed oil to the boil, cover and let miso hollandaise.
stand for 30 minutes. Strain off the liquid, bind with
a little xanthan gum and then emulsify the grape
seed oil with a whisk.
Garnish
30
I
31
DISH IV
HALIBUT
PEAS
MORELS
CHICKEN
VIN JAUNE
Chicken
Halibut
Morels
Pea puree
Pea vinaigrette
Peas
34
I
35
DISH IV
HALIBUT
PEAS I MORELS I CHICKEN I VIN JAUNE
80 g salt
1 L cold water Pea vinaigrette
8 slices of halibut fillet 65-70 g (gross weight of fish:
6 kg without the head) 100 ml fresh pea juice
20 g clarified butter 1 pinch of Xanthan gum
30 g butter 20 ml white balsamic vinegar
30g miso paste for flaming (see page 349) 50 ml grape seed oil
Salt, pepper, sugar
Dissolve the salt completely in the water, then mari
nate the halibut fillets for 18 minutes in the brine. Let the pea juice rest for about 30 minutes (to let
Take the fish out of the water and place on a baking the starch settle). Then carefully pour into another
tray coated with clarified butter. Brush the fish with container in order to separate the juice from the
butter as well. starch. Then bind the juice with the xanthan gum
Cover the fish with foil and cook at 52 ° C for 8 and stir in the balsamic vinegar and grape seed oil.
minutes (turning the fish after 4 minutes). Then Season to taste with salt, pepper and sugar.
baste the fillets on all sides in a pan with the foamed
°
butter. The core temperature should be 41-42 C.
Then coat with paste and sear with a culinary torch. Morels
PAGE 35
15 g flour
Pea puree 15 g starch
150 ml water
50 g bacon 150 ml veal jus (see page 344)
50 g shallots 100 ml olive oil
200 ml cream 20 g butter, melted
1 sprig of thyme 2 tbsp sepia ink
2 bay leaves Salt
1 kg frozen peas Oil for frying
Salt, pepper, sugar
Mix the flour and starch in a hemispherical bowl.
Dice the bacon and shallots coarsely and then Add water and veal jus and stir in well. Then add the
saute in a pot. Add cream, thyme and bay leaves, olive oil and butter, dye with the sepia ink and
and reduce by half. Blanch the peas in salted season with salt.
water and then shock in iced water. Then add the Heat a Teflon-coated pan to 150 °C and pour in a
reduced cream and beat to a smooth puree in the little oil. Then gradually fry the mixture until crispy
Thermomix. If necessary, add additional cream. and then remove carefully from pan. Store the
Season to taste with salt, pepper as well as sugar crunchy chips on kitchen paper in a dry, warm
and pass through a fine strainer. place.
MENU
Chicken skin
TO SERVE
4 pieces of chicken skin from breast
Salt, icing sugar
Use a ring to place the pea salad on a warmed
Clean off any excess fat from the chicken skin and plate. Spread the hot pea puree on the plate and
lay flat on a baking tray covered with baking paper. make an attractive arrangement with the glazed
Then cover with another sheet of baking paper and morels. Place the halibut in the centre of the plate
weight down with a second tray. Bake the skin in and decorate with chicken skin and sepia chips.
the oven at 200 'C for around 30 minutes. Then salt Then pour over the pea vinaigrette and hot, foamed
and sprinkle with icing sugar and continue to bake vin jaune sauce and garnish with affilla cress.
until the sugar is lightly caramelised. Finally break
the skins into the desired size and keep in a warm,
dry place until required.
Garnish
36
I
37
MENU
DISH V
CHAWANMUSHI
SNAILS
MUSHROOMS
GARLIC CHIVES
Beech mushrooms
Bread chips
Chawanmushi
Enoki mushrooms
Garlic chips
Parsley
Snails
Spinach puree
38
39
DISH V
CHAWANMUSHI
SNAILS I MUSHROOMS I GARLIC CHIVES
Chawanmushi Snails
400 ml dashi (see page 347) 200g kitchen-ready, gutted snails, boiled
4g Jakobs dashi (finished product) 4 tbsp finely diced mushrooms ( 4mm cubes)
1.5g bonito flakes 4 tbsp herb butter
1g kaffir lime leaves 4 tbsp veal jus (see page 344)
2g peeled ginger 1 tbsp each of crushed garlic and parsley, mixed
2.2g kombu Salt, pepper
0.5g Yuzu zest (or lemon zest)
3.5 light soy sauce Saute the snails and mushrooms in the herb butter
8g oysters and glaze with veal jus. Add the garlic-parsley mix
50g cream ture and season to taste with salt and pepper.
4 egg yolks
4 eggs
Salt, sugar Garlic chive mat
Heat the dashi to 70 •c, then add all the ingredi 500g garlic chives
ents except the cream and the eggs, cover and let
stand for 30 minutes. Then strain, add the cream Clean the garlic, blanch and cool in iced water.
and eggs and mix well. Season to taste with salt and Then rinse out well, put in a Pacojet container, and
sugar. Fill the small china bowls with the mixture freeze for at least 24 hours. Pacotize four times as
and place on a deep tray. required.
Cover the tray with aluminium foil and heat at 80•c
for 35-40 minutes in a steam oven. Ensure that
the chawanmushi is thickened when removed from Spinach puree
oven.
750g fresh spinach
Salt
100ml cream
2 tbsp butter
White pepper, nutmeg
2 tbsp brown butter
50g brown sugar
TO SERVE
4 shallots 2 cloves of garlic
2 cloves of garlic Salt
6 mushrooms 500ml palm fat Spread the snails and mushrooms evenly on the
1 bunch of spring onions Pepper warm chawanmushi. Pour over the warm chive
2 tbsp butter ½ bunch curly parsley foam. Serve a bread chip with garnish or serve
100ml Noilly Prat 3 tbsp beech mushrooms separately.
100ml white wine 2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 L chicken stock (see page 345) 3 tbsp kitchen-ready, gutted snails
500ml cream 1 tbsp herb butter
Chive mat (see left) ½ bunch enoki mushrooms
Salt, sugar, nutmeg 3 tbsp spinach puree (see left)
Spinach puree (see left)
Peel the cloves of garlic and slice them very thin
Finely chop the shallots, garlic, mushrooms and with a truffle plane. Then blanch three times in
spring onions and saute in a little butter. Add Noilly lightly salted water. Lay on a kitchen towel and dry
Prat and white wine and boil down. Pour in the well. Fry the dried slices in 180 'C hot palm fat until
chicken broth and reduce by half, add the cream, golden, season with salt and pepper and then dry
simmer for 2-3 minutes and leave to stand on the them for a further 3-4 hours on kitchen paper
edge of the stove for 30 minutes. in a hot cupboard.
Strain and place in Thermomix with 5 tbsp of the Pluck, wash and dry the parsley and then fry in
garlic chive mat. Mix on the highest/fastest setting 190·c palm fat. Remove from fat after 1 minute,
and then strain again. Season to taste with salt, season and then also dry in the hot cupboard
sugar and nutmeg. Shortly before needed, boil up on kitchen paper. Saute the beech mushrooms in
again once, dye green with 1 tbsp of spinach puree vegetable oil and season to taste. Saute the snails
and 2 tbsp chive mat, then season to taste. Then in herb butter in a Teflon pan, season to taste
strain again. and glaze with the veal jus. Arrange all the ingre
dients on the bread chips, together with the red
enoki mushrooms and the spinach puree. Keep
Bread chips warm until ready to serve.
Cut off the crusts and then freeze. Using the slicer
cut off 2 mm slices and cut out the right size
to fit the china bowls. Place the slices of bread on
a buttered Silpat mat, then cover with another
buttered Silpat mat and weigh down with a tray.
Bake in the oven at 200 ·c for around 7 minutes
until golden. Season with salt.
40
I
41
MENU
DI SH VI
BEEF FROM
JAPAN
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE
WAKAME
TRUFFLE
Black truffles
Japanese sirloin steak
Jerusalem artichoke
Jerusalem artichoke puree
Onion crumble
Short ribs
Vealjus
Wakame and truffle vinaigrette
White onion puree
42
43
BAU.STEINE DISH VI
2L water 60g light dashi (see page 47) 600g Jerusalem artichoke
1 garlic bulb 6g truffle juice (from conserved truffles) 200ml milk
200g seasoning salt 8 g rice vinegar for sushi 20ml cream
1 sprig of thyme Xanthan gum Salt, pepper, sugar
1 sprig of rosemary 3 tbsp grape seed oil 2g xanthan gum
1.8 kg of boneless Wagyu short ribs 3 tbsp hazelnut oil
Salt, pepper, sugar Peel the Jerusalem artichoke and cut into small
To make the marinade, stir the water, garlic 40g Wakame seaweed pieces. Mix milk and cream in a pot and boil the
and seasoning together. Then marinate the meat 250ml green tea peeled Jerusalem artichoke until soft. Pass through
for 12 hours. Rinse off with cold water and then 40g winter truffles, chopped a strainer and then work into a smooth puree.
dry. Vacuum-seal and cook at 72 ·c in a bain-marie 20g crunchy Jerusalem artichoke dice Season with salt, pepper and sugar and, if neces
for 28 hours. Cool down in icy water. Cut the 10g chopped, roasted hazelnuts sary, bind with xanthan gum. Put the puree into
chilled short ribs into 3 x 3cm cubes and vacu- spray bottle and store at 65•c in a bain-marie until
um-seal. In order to serve, warm up for 12 minutes Bind the dashi, truffles and rice vinegar with needed.
°
at 57 C in a bain-marie, then fry on all sides and some xanthan gum and pass through a micro-sieve.
coat with the soy glaze. Make a light emulsion from both of the oils and
season to taste with salt, pepper and sugar.
Immerse the wakame seaweed for 12 hours in the
Soy glaze green tea and then bring to the boil. Then pour
PAGE 46
away, dry off and chop finely. Then mix seaweed,
truffles, Jerusalem artichoke dice and hazelnuts
with the vinaigrette until smooth.
44
I
45
DISH VI
Artichoke crumble
TO SERVE
The peel of 4 Jerusalem artichokes
750 ml vegetable oil
Salt, pepper, sugar Saute the short ribs which have been heated in
the bain-marie and coat with soya seasoning.
Deep fry the peel at 160 ·c. Lay out on kitchen pa Sprinkle some finely chopped chives and the onion
per and dry at 57 ° C in the dehydrator for 12 hours. crumble. Squeeze a dab of white onion puree on
Season to taste the dried peel with salt, pepper the glazed short ribs and place one of the pommes
and sugar. soufflees on top. Place the short ribs on a warmed
plate. Arrange the Jerusalem artichoke puree,
braised Jerusalem artichoke ball, the raw with shiso
Light dashi vinaigrette marinated Jerusalem artichoke, crum
ble, chips and the fresh watercress in an attractive
100 ml water manner around the short rib. Place the wakame
3 g dried wakame seaweed truffle vinaigrette in a ring in the middle of the
3 g bonito flakes plate. Then fry off the beef as described, slice and
1 tbsp light soy sauce season with Malden salt and crushed pepper. Serve
1 tbsp rice vinegar the veal jus separately in a gravy boat.
1 tbsp mirin
Garnish
46
I
47
MENU
DISH VII
>SPRING
AWAKENING<
RHUBARB
BERRIES
BUTTERMILK
Bilberry sorbet
Raspberries
Raspberry crumble
Raspberry drops
Raspberry gel
Rhubarb
Rhubarb cream
Rhubarb gel
Rhubarb macaroons
Rhubarb sorbet
Yoghurt sponge
48
49
BAU.STEINE DISH VII
50
I
51
DISH VII
>SPRING AWAKENING<
RHUBARB I BERRIES I BUTTERMILK
TO SERVE
100g raspberries 100g flour 100 g rhubarb juice
1 L nitrogen 150g butter 10 ml white balsamic vinegar
70g sugar 20g egg white Lay out 2 drops of each variety op
Put raspberries in container with 100g Sosa raspberry crispies, finely 20g sugar posite each other and decorate with
nitrogen and then bash with scoop mixed silver leaf and macaroon. Sprinkle the
until broken into segments. Store Beat all the ingredients in a mixer. rhubarb jelly stalks with raspberry
segments in freezer. Knead all the ingredients into a Use an icing bag with a plain nozzle crumble and then lay them opposite
dough. Then make rolls out of the to create small macaroons on a Silpat each other. Make two small piles out
dough and freeze. Take out of freezer mat and dry at 80·c for 12 hours in of raspberry Malto and make a hole
Butter milk jelly when required and make crumble the dehydrator. in each one with a finger. Then stamp
with a grater. Lay on an baking tray the stewed rhubarb with a small
150g milk and bake at 120 •c for about 15 ring and lay on top. Cut out the same
40g sugar minutes. Rhubarb chips size of buttermilk jelly with a ring
3g agar-agar and lay on the stewed rhubarb. Then
50 g buttermilk 2 rhubarb stalks sprinkle the jelly with chocolate and
1 sheet of gelatine, softened and Yoghurt sponge 20g icing sugar raspberry sprinkles. Close up the gaps
squeezed with macaroons and jelly dabs and
10g flour Cut the rhubarb sticks to about 10cm decorate with cress and blossoms.
Bring the milk with sugar and agar 30g sugar long. Then with the peel, cut them Set the bilberry sorbet in the Malto
agar to the boil. Then stir in the 150g egg white lengthwise into thin pieces and lay on and put a scoop of rhubarb sorbet on
buttermilk and the gelatine. Pour onto 32g almond semolina the Silpat mat. Dust them with icing top. Then put the rhubarb chips on
a greased tray and then leave to cool. 30g Yopol sugar and dry in the oven at 70·c for the ice cream. Lastly, spread the
Cut out 3cm diameter pieces as about 12 hours. buttermilk pearls and raspberry seg
required. Mix all ingredients in Thermomix ments and the yoghurt sponge around
until smooth. Put the mixture into the edges.
an iSi-Siphon and load with 2 gas Garnish
White chocolate crumble capsules then chill for 4 hours. Then
put 3cm layer into a microwaveable 2 sheets of silver leaf
100g sugar container and then microwave at 2 packs of atsina cress
100g water 800 watts for 45 seconds. Remove 1 pack of blossoms
100 g white couverture chocolate and after 2 minutes break into small
pieces. Put pieces onto a baking tray
Boil sugar and water to 130•c. Take and bake at 80·c for about 2 hours.
off heat and add couverture. Stir until
crumbs start to form.
Raspberry Malto
52
I
53
MENU
DI SH VI 11
>SOUVENIR
FROM ASIA<
PAN DAN
NASHI PEARS
GINGER
Ginger macaroons
Nashi pears
Pandan cream
Pear gel
54
55
Pandan mixture
TO SERVE
200g pear puree
2.5 g agar-agar
2.5 g gel Ian gum Place a gateau in the centre of the plate.
1 tsp lime juice Spray different-sized dabs on the plate. Place the
pear slices on some of the dabs of gel. Place a
Bring the ingredients to the boil while stirring scoop of ginger ice cream on the plate and then
and then leave to cool in a container. Then decorate with ginger macaroons and pear cookies.
use the Thermomix to beat the mixture into an Lastly garnish with atsina cress and gold leaf.
even smooth gel. Then pass the mixture through
a fine sieve.
Pear cookies
Garnish
2 Nashi pears
1 pack of atsina cress
Gold leaf
56
I
57
BADEN
58
59
>Traube Tonbach< hotel in Baiersbronn, where his eyes
were opened by Harald Wohlfahrt, who introduced him
to a hitherto unexpected degree of perfection. And lastly,
the >Schwarze Adler< in Oberbergen, that jewel of tradi
tion - perhaps the most enduring bastion of sophisticat
ed culinary art on German soil.
Bright yellow, it lies on the winding lane from Botzin
gen to Burkheim, defiant and inviting at the same time,
the image of a German inn. Immediate to the left of the
porch stands the Stammtisch, scrubbed white, made out
of ancient Kaiserstuhl sycamore. Here Bau is a guest.
This is where the man that seeks his inspiration at Toru
Okuda in the Ginza or from Cesar Ramirez in Brook
lyn, always returns. At least once a year. W hy? Because
here things are preserved that have largely been lost:
the carving of large joints of meat, servers in black and
white, the astonishing depth of the wine list, the ex
traordinary hospitality of Bettina and Fritz Keller. But
above all the heavenly dishes: Filet Rossini, Duck from
the Dombe, Poulard en vessie with truffles. By the time
they are on the A5, Bau's daughters already know what
they want: Frogs' legs in garlic and parsley butter, tur
bot on beurre blanc, poulet, and so it goes on. Bau says,
»Then I know that I have done everything right!«
60
I
61
BROWN CRAB
XO CREME I SAKE GRANITA I JASMINE RICE
TORO TUNA
HEARTS OF PALM I TRUFFLES I DASHI
DOVER SOLE
SPICY GAZPACHO I FRESHWATER PEARLS I EXOTIC MOUSSELINE
PIGEON
BLACK PUDDING I JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE I RED AROMAS
>RING OF DESIRE<
P ISTACHIO I RASPBERRY I LIME
MENU
II
DISH I
BROWN CRAB
XO CREME
SAKE GRANITA
JASMINE RICE
Bonito vinaigrette
Brown crab
Dashijelly
Dashi melon
Sake granita
XO creme
64
65
BAU.STEINE DISH I
66
I
67
DISH I
BROWN CRAB
XO CREME I SAKE GRANITA I JASMINE RICE
65 g dried scallops
Dashi jelly 65 g dried shrimp
40g be I Iota ham
200ml shellfish essence (see page 346) 325 ml chicken stock (see page 345)
20g kombu 300ml sunflower oil
1 tbsp bonito flakes 2 ½ chillies, finely diced
3 gelatine leaves, softened and squeezed 2 ½ finely-diced shallots
Salt, cayenne pepper ¾ garlic clove, finely diced
2 ½ tbsp shaoxing wine
Mix the essence with the kombu seaweed and 2 ½ tbsp fish sauce
bonito flakes and heat to 80•c. Leave it to stand 2 ½ tbsp mushroom soy sauce
covered for 1 hour and then strain. Dissolve the 2 ½ tbsp brown sugar
gelatine in the mixture. Season it with salt and 2 ½ tbsp chilli flakes
cayenne pepper and then refrigerate it. Once the
mixture has gelled, press it through a cooled In 2 different pots, bring about 300ml water to
press and refrigerate it in an icing bag until you the boil. Add the scallops to one pot and the dried
are ready to serve. shrimp to the other one. Then take the pots off
the heat and allow the contents to stand. Mean
while, steam the ham in an ovenproof dish covered
Bonitovin aig er tt e with aluminium foil for 15 minutes at 100 'C. Steam
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ =- _ _ _ _ _ PAGE 67
it in the combi-steamer. Then leave the ham to
drain from a sieve and mix the liquid collected with
Dashi melon the chicken stock.
- - ---- PAGE 67
Remove the shrimp after 1 hour in hot water, allow
to drain and chop them finely. Likewise, after 1
Nori seaweed crisps more hour, remove the scallops from the water,
allowing them to drain. Chop them finely.
100g sugar Heat the oil to 107 ·c and then add the chopped
20g lsomalt scallops to the hot oil. After 5 minutes, add the
5 0g glucose syrup chopped shrimps and cook for another 15 minutes.
40ml water Add the Bellota ham and 3 minutes later add the
2 sheets of nori seaweed cubed chilli and cook the entire dish for an addi
tional 3 minutes. Then strain and cook the shallots
°
Heat sugar, syrup and water together to 165 'C and garlic in the same oil, also at 107 C, for 5
and allow it to cool on a silicon mat. Then grind minutes until golden.
it to a fine powder with the nori seaweed in the Mix in the ingredients that were first fried with the
Thermomix. Using a round template (3cm diameter), ham, the chicken stock, the wine, the fish sauce
sieve the powder onto a baking mat and melt in the and the mushroom soy sauce and stir in the sugar.
oven at 220 ·c. Allow the chips to cool and store Then reduce almost completely. Add the chilli
packed airtight with the desiccant until needed. flakes and put in a jar with the oil, the shallots and
the garlic and allow to stand for 2 days.
XO creme
----- -PAGE 67
MENU
II
Sake granita
TO SERVE
125ml sake
10ml yuzu juice
10g simple syrup Using a ring (6 cm in diameter), form the crabmeat
1 pinch of xanthan gum on the plate and spread the dashi jelly over it
about 2mm thick. Remove the ring and garnish the
Bring the sake, yuzu juice and simple syrup to the brown crab with XO creme and the dashi melon.
boil, thicken lightly with xanthan gum and pour into Then add the vinaigrette to the plate, lay the rice
silicon ball forms (1 cm. in diameter). Freeze for chips and nori seaweed on top and arrange the
at least 12 hours and, when needed, release from sake granita in a visually attractive manner. Finally
the silicon forms while still frozen. garnish with cress.
Rice chips
Garnish
68
I
69
MENU
II
DI SH II
AIJ
[JAPANESE JACK
MACKEREL]
APPLE
CAVIAR
CREME CRU
Apple Gel
Oyster cream
Buttermilk dashi
Dill oil
Gillardeau oysters
Jack mackerel
Miso oil
Passe-pierre tips
70
71
DISH II
500 g buttermilk
8 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) For the whey, freeze the buttermilk and let it thaw
out on a cloth strainer.
Open the oysters and separate them from the Collect the clear strained butter milk whey. Flavour
muscle. Collect the oyster water and strain. Poach the buttermilk as follows.
the oysters at 42 ·c for1 minute in the oyster water.
Then remove the beard and slice each oysters
into 3 medallions. Flavouring of buttermilk whey
200 ml clear buttermilk whey (see above)
8g kombu
6g edamame, dried
1 g Shiitake mushrooms, dried
1.5 g ginger, dried
1 g garlic, dried
0.2 g xanthan gum
20 ml dill oil (see page 348)
10 ml miso oil (see page 348)
TO SERVE
120 g egg yolks 2 sheets of gelatine, softened and squeezed
50 ml mirin 50 ml lime juice
50 ml rice vinegar 375 ml sour cream (10 % fat) Place a ring from the mackerel roll in the centre
Salt 125 ml cream of the plate and lay an oyster medallion on top.
40 g icing sugar Arrange the remaining two medallions behind the
°
Mix all the ingredients in a Thermomix at 85 C to 10 ml rice vinegar mackerel roll. Dot the kimizu and oyster cream
a fine cream. Season to taste with salt and strain 2 splashes of green tabasco between the oyster medallions and garnish with
through a fine strainer. 5 g salt salty fingers, passe-pierre, apple sticks and apple
slices. Then garnish with the caviar, press in the
Dissolve the gelatine in lime juice. Mix the remain wakame chip and drop the creme cru pearls loosely
Oyster cream ing ingredients and work in the lime juice. Using a on top. Finally pour the buttermilk dashi all around.
spray bottle, trickle the mixture into liquid nitrogen
1 shallot cut into brunoise in order to make the pearls. Then with a skimmer
2 tbsp vegetable oil carefully remove the pearls, place them on a plate
30 ml white wine and freeze until needed.
75 ml dashi (see page 347)
3 oysters (Gillardeau No 2)
90 g creme fraiche Garnish
10g chives
10 g coriander 1 Granny Smith apple
1 stalk of parsley 1 tsp lemon vinaigrette (see page 348)
Agar-agar 24 passe-pierre tips
Gellan gum 16 salty fingers
16 apple blossoms
Saute the shallot until translucent, then add white 80 g imperial osietra caviar
wine and dashi and reduce. Add the oysters and the
oyster water and bring to the boil once. Then im- Cut 1 mm thick and 1.5 cm wide sticks from the
mediately mix them with the creme fraiche, chives, apple and also cut 8 slices each (diameter 1 cm and
coriander and parsley in the Thermomix. Then pass 1.5 cm). Marinate in lemon vinaigrette.
through a splatter sieve. Add 1 g agar-agar and 1 g
gel Ian gum per 100 ml mixture. Bring the liquid to
the boil again with the agar-agar and gellan gum
and then let it form a gel. When cold, beat mixture
into a smooth gel in the Thermomix.
Wakame chips
72
I
73
DISH Ill
TORO TUNA
HEART OF PALM
TRUFFLE
DASH I
Heart of palm
Heart of palm puree
Truffle
Truffle dashi
Tuna belly sashimi
Tuna belly tartare
Tuna belly, grilled
DISH 111
TORO TUNA
HEARTS OF PALM I TRUFFLE I DASHI
1 blue/in toro tuna at 800-1000 g (at least 8 tuna fish slices of 8 x 4 x 1.5 cm
20 x 10 x Bern in size) Salt, pepper
Cut the tuna fish belly as follows: Season the belly slices with salt and pepper and fry
8 slices at 8 x 4 x 1.5 cm (for the belly piece) briefly on both sides in a hot pan. Then keep the
16 strips of 2 mm thickness, 8 x 1.5 cm long fish warm in the Hold-o-Mat on a grate for 10 min
(for the sashimi roll) utes at 65 ·c. Take out the tuna fish slices when
120 g rough cubes with 5 mm edge length they have reached a core temperature of 36 °C,
(for the tartare) then cut the edges cleanly and slice each belly slice
into 2 squares halves.
TO SERVE
120 g rough cubes with 5 mm edge length 1 shallot
2 tbsp chives, finely chopped 20 ml vegetable oil
1 tbsp minced truffle (see below) 1 kg fresh Hawaiian hearts of palm, minced Form the tartare on the plate and arrange the
Salt, pepper 400 ml unsweetened coconut milk filled sashimi rolls next to it. Attach the fried belly
Salt, pepper, sugar pieces and dot the heart of palm puree on the
Mix the tuna fish with the chives and chopped plate. Then lay the heart of palm wafers on top and
truffles and season with salt and pepper. Weigh Peel the shallots, slice them into a fine brunoise distribute the truffle slices and truffle julienne
out 15 g portions and cut out using a cutter (diam. and sweat them in oil until they are colourless. Add over the tuna fish. Garnish with bean blossoms and
2 cm). Keep covered and cool until you are ready the heart of palm, pour in the coconut milk and atsina cress and at the end pour on the lukewarm
to serve. cook the heart of palm in it until it is soft. Then truffle dashi.
strain and process the mixture into a smooth puree
in the Thermomix. Season to taste with salt, pepper
Truffle and sugar. Strain again and warm up in a spray
bottle in a bain-marie at 65 ·c.
2 truffle bulbs weighing 45 g (Perigord truffles or
Australian winter truffles)
Heart of palm wafers
Clean and peel the truffles and slice them into
1 mm thin slices. Cut out a total of 16 >donuts< 100 g fresh heart of palm from Hawaii
from the slices (diam. 2.5 cm and 1 cm). Cut fine Salt, pepper, sugar
julienne from the remaining slices. Keep the truffle 20 ml vegetable oil
donuts, the inner truffle slices and the truffle 20 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)
julienne covered and cool until required. Chop the
remaining truffle finely and use for the tartare and Cut out
truffle dashi. 2 mm thick slices from the hearts of palm on the
slicing machine and, using a cutter, cut out 8 rings
each at 1.5 cm and 2.5 cm. Use the heart of palm
Truffle dashi sections for making the puree. Season the larger
slices with salt, pepper and sugar, and lightly
150 ml dashi (see page 347) fry them in oil. Marinate the smaller slices in shiso
50 ml juice of preserved truffles vinaigrette.
1 pinch of xanthan gum
1 tbsp minced truffle (see above)
10 ml rice vinegar Garnish
10ml mirin
Salt, pepper, sugar 1 pack of atsina cress
8 bean blossoms
Warm up the dashi and truffle juice together
(do not boil) and thicken them with xanthan gum.
Add the chopped truffle and season with rice vine
gar and mirin as well as salt, pepper and sugar.
76
I
77
MENU
II
DISH IV
DOVER SOLE
SPICY GAZPACHO
FRESH WATER PEARLS
EXOTIC MOUSSELINE
Crispy spirals
Dover sole
Exotic mousseline
Fragrant foam
Herb salad
Seawater tapioca
Spicy gazpacho
Vegetable pearls
78
79
BAU.STEINE DISH IV
2 whole fish: French dover sole, 900 g each 60 g tapioca pearls 5 egg yolks
Salt, pepper 3 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) 30 ml rice vinegar
flour 1 tbsp finely-chopped spring onions 20ml milk
4 tbsp vegetable oil 1 tbsp garlic oil (see page 348) 190 g butter
120 g butter 1 tbsp ginger oil (see page 348) Salt, cayenne pepper
2 tbsp enoki mushrooms, 3 cm heads 1 tbsp of chopped coriander
Remove the skin of the sole from the head to the 1 tbsp finely-chopped chives 1 tbsp chopped mint
tail. Wash the fish and cut off the outer tail-fin and Salt, pepper
the head with kitchen scissors. Clean the fish and Bring the egg white and vinegar to 65 'C in the
wash it out again. Pat it dry. Boil the tapioca pearls for 8 minutes in water until Thermomix at a low setting and continue to mix for
Expose the backbone of the fish using a straight cut soft, then strain and shock. Open the oyster and 5 minutes at this temperature. Then add milk and
both on the back side and belly side. Then, using collect the oyster water. Then remove the beard slowly add the butter in small pieces. Season with
scissors, cut the fish in half along the backbone and and muscle from oysters and dice them finely. salt and cayenne pepper, pour into a small iSi
remove the middle part of the spine. Saute the spring onions with garlic and ginger oil. Siphon and gas treat it with 2 capsules. Warm the
Portion the resulting fillets into 4 pieces of equal Add the tapioca, the mushrooms and the oyster siphon at 55 ·c for 30-40 minutes in a bain-marie.
size per fish. Season them with salt and pepper and and boil down to a cream. Season with chives, salt Before serving, spray the hollandaise into a warm
dust them lightly with flour. Fry the fillets in a hot and pepper. saute pan and finish with the chopped herbs.
Teflon skillet until they are golden. Now pour off
the oil, add butter and baste the fish repeatedly.
Then place the fish in a 190 'C oven for about 3
minutes. Remove the fish when it reaches a core
temperature of 41 ·c and leave it to rest in a warm
location (or in the Hold-o-Mat) for another 2-3
minutes. Separate the fish from the backbone with
a sharp knife and place them on top of each other.
Keep warm until served.
80
I
81
DISH IV
DOVER SOLE
SPICY G AZPACHO I FRESHWATER PEARLS I EXOTIC MOUSSELINE
15 Pimientos de Padron
Exotic mousseline ½ cucumber
- - - -----PAGE 81
about 1 g xanthan gum
20 ml Thai fish sauce
Fragrant foam 10 ml almond oil
10 ml lemon oil
100 g mushrooms 5 splashes of green tabasco (Jalapeno)
100 g shallots 10 ml lime juice
1 clove of garlic, chopped 10 ml mizkan vinegar
2 g kaffir lime leaves 1 tbsp parsley or spinach puree
30 g ginger, roughly chopped salt, pepper, simple syrup
1 stalk of finely-chopped lemongrass
2 tbsp mild curry powder Cut the pimientos de Padron in half. Remove the
1 tsp ras el-hanout seeds and wash them once in hot water. Then juice
100 ml Noilly Prat them with the washed cucumber. Thicken the liquid
200 ml chicken stock (see page 345) with xanthan gum. Strain and process them with
200 ml unsweetened coconut milk the remaining ingredients. Season with salt, pepper
Salt, pepper, sugar and the simple syrup to a savoury sweet-sour and
½ tsp lecithin slightly hot flavour.
Herb salad
TO SERVE
½ head of fine green frisee lettuce
1 tbsp parsley tips
1 tbsp chervil tips Make the oyster tapioca 1.5 cm deep on a plate
1 tsp dill tips using a ring (4cm diam.). Lay the sole on the
1 tsp fine coriander leaves tapioca and garnish it with the glazed vegetable
10 tarragon tips pearls and the wild herb salad. Dot the oyster
½ pack daikon cress cream with the crispy spirals, and decorate it with
½ pack of red shiso cress the flowers. Arrange them around the sole. Finally
4 leaves of radicchio add the fragrant foam on top of the tapioca and
50 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348) pour it on the spicy gazpacho. Serve the mousse
line separately.
Mix the tips of the frisee lettuce with the herbs and
the cress. Cut the radicchio lettuce into fine strips
and add it to the mixture. Marinate everything in
the vinaigrette and season to taste.
Crispy spirals
60 g flour
15 g Surprises Trisol
50 g tapioca flour
10 g egg whites
6 g salt
80 ml mineral water
1 tbsp chive oil (see page 348)
500 ml palm fat
Garnish
82
I
83
MENU
II
DI SH V
KUROBUTA
PORK
[BACK
[& TROTTER]
YAMS
EDAMAME
JAPANESE SANSHO PEPPER
Edamame
Pork back
Porkjus
Trotter croquette
Yam puree
Yams
84
85
DI SH V
Yams
TO SERVE
100g root vegetables, finely chopped (carrots, 2 medium-sized yams (about 250g peeled)
celeriac, shallots) 1 L palm oil for deep-frying
3 tbsp vegetable oil 3 tbsp traditional tempura batter Lay the sliced meat in the centre of the plate and
400g trimmings from Kurobota pork (see left) 400ml water season with Japanese sansho pepper and Maldon
100ml red port 8g instant dashi powder salt. Arrange a circle of glazed yams, edamame and
50ml Noilly Prat 1 pinch of Japanese sansho pepper yam puree around the meat. Lay a pig foot praline
50ml madeira 10g ginger on the meat and garnish the plate with chickweed.
500ml veal jus (see page 344) 100g sugar Finally, pour the jus into the circle, generously
Salt, freshly ground Japanese sansho pepper 100ml mirin around the meat.
1-2 pinches of xanthan gum 200ml low-salt soy sauce
30g cold butter
Deep fry the whole peeled yams in oil at 180 'C un
Fry the vegetables in a pot with oil without letting til golden. Then fry the tempura batter until golden.
them change colour, add the meat trimmings and Bring the water to the boil with the dashi powder
cook at medium heat until there is a slight col and leave to stand for 15 minutes. Then add the
ouring. Add the alcohol and reduce to a third. Then remaining ingredients except for the yams and re
fill to the top with veal jus and leave to simmer duce to a third. Add the yams to the hot stock and
lightly for 2 hours. Then strain and reduce it to refrigerate, covered, for 24 hours. Then remove
150-170 ml. Season to taste with salt and pepper from the stock and cut into shapely balls. Strain the
and, if necessary, thicken with xanthan gum. stock and glaze the yams in it.
Add the cold butter before serving.
Garnish
Yam puree
Japanese sansho pepper and Maldon salt
1 finely-diced shallot 80 shelled edamame beans (heated in court bouil
3 small mushrooms, finely diced lon, glazed with some butter and seasoned)
2 tbsp butter 48 chickweed tops
350g yams, peeled and finely diced
2 tbsp white port
4 tbsp Noilly Prat
100ml chicken stock (see page 345)
150ml cream
Salt, pepper, nutmeg, sugar
86
I
87
MENU
II
DISH VI
PIGEON
BLACK PUDDING
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE
RED AROMAS
Berries
Pigeon
Pigeon jus
88
89
BAU.STEINE DISH VI
_P_gi _e_o___
n 100 g mirepoix (shallots, carrots, 400 g high quality black pudding
PAGE 92
celery stalks) 75 ml unfiltered apple juice
2 finely diced mushrooms 20 g vegetarian gelatine (Sosa)
4 tbsp vegetable oil 1 pinch of xanthan gum
4 pigeons, cut into walnut-sized pieces 1 tbsp Calvados
2 bay leaves Salt
10 white peppercorns
3 cloves of garlic Mix the black pudding in the Thermomix for about
1 sprig of thyme 10 minutes and warm up to 50 'C. Then strain
75 g foie gras the homogenous mixture through a micro-sieve.
50 ml madeira Add apple juice and gelatine and bring to the boil.
60ml cognac Allow the mixture to gel in a container and process
60 ml red wine again in the Thermomix at 60"C until smooth.
120 ml red port Season with calvados and salt and, if necessary,
500 ml chicken jus (see page 345) thicken with xanthan gum. Put the mixture into
50 ml pig's blood spray bottles and store at 62 'C in a Hold-o-Mat
1 pinch of xanthan gum until needed.
Salt, pepper
50 g cold butter
90
I
91
DISH VI
PIGEON
BLACK PUDDING I JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE I RED AROMAS
4 pigeons, weighing 680g each with heads and 600g Jerusalem artichoke
claws, well hanged (preferably from Theo Kieffer in 200ml milk
Alsace) 20 ml cream
Salt, pepper Salt, pepper, sugar
8 tbsp vegetable oil 2g xanthan gum
500g goose fat
100g butter Peel the Jerusalem artichoke and cut into small
2 thyme sprigs pieces. Mix milk and cream in a pot and boil the
1 sprig of rosemary peeled Jerusalem artichoke until soft. Pass through
a strainer and then work into a smooth puree.
Remove the legs from the pigeons and cut them in Season with salt, pepper and sugar and, if neces
half so that the backbones can be removed while sary, thicken with xanthan gum. Put the puree
leaving both breasts attached to the bone. Remove into spray bottle and store at 65 ·c in a bain-marie
innards and blood, dry with kitchen towel and until needed.
clean. Pluck any remaining feathers and feather
shafts.
Cut the claws off the legs and pluck out any last Jerusalem arti choke chips
feathers and feather shafts. Season the legs with
salt and pepper and sear on the skin side with 300g Jerusalem artichoke
4 tbsp oil. Turn briefly and then cook as a confit in 100ml still water
the oven at 80 ·c immersed in melted goose fat 1 pinch of xanthan gum
for 6 hours. Release the hip bones from the leg 500ml palm fat
confits. Before serving, fry the legs in oil, primarily Salt
on the skin side, in a Teflon pan until crispy. Season
again . Season the pigeon breasts with salt and Wash the Jerusalem artichoke, brush clean and
pepper and sear the skin side with 4 tbsp oil, the steam at 100•c in the convection oven for 1.5
reduce the heat and add butter as well as thyme and hours. Then scrape the flesh from the skin and mix
rosemary. Baste the pigeon with the foamed butter, 150g flesh with 150g peel, water and xanthan gum
then put in the oven for 4 minutes at 200 ·c and in the Thermomix until fine and then strain.
then let it rest in the Hold-o-Mat for 35 minutes at Add half the strained residue back to the strained
62 •c. Before serving, baste the pigeon breast again mixture and stir until smooth. Then spread the
in butter until a core temperature of 52 •c has mixture 2mm thick on a silicon baking mat and dry
been reached. Finally sear the breast side with a for 2 hours at 110·c in the convection oven. Then
culinary torch and so crisp it up, then cut from the break off a piece of 5 x 5 cm, fry in 170·c hot oil
bone. Cut in half lengthwise and serve. and form into little baskets using a cork. Allow the
fat to drip off onto kitchen paper, season with salt
and keep in the Hold-o-Mat until required.
P i ge
� _o _n�ju__
_s
_� PAGE 91
Cassis gel
TO SERVE
200g cassis puree
50g raspberry puree
20ml Creme de Cassis Carve the pigeon breast and place on the plate.
30ml blackcurrant juice Dot the black pudding cream on the plate and lay
3g agar-agar on the Jerusalem artichokes.
3g gellan gum Place a Jerusalem artichokes basket on the plate
and fill with Jerusalem artichoke ragout so that the
Mix all ingredients together an process to a smooth basket is half-filled. Arrange the balls attractively
jelly in the Thermomix. and garnish the plate with Jerusalem artichoke
puree, cassis gel and the berries. Then decorate
with mizuna tips and lay the crispy pigeon leg on
Jerusalem artichoke garnish top. Pour the pigeon jus around it.
Garnish
92
I
93
MENU
II
DISH VI I
BLACK FOREST
CHERRIES
HOMMAGE TO THE HOMELAND
Cherry air
Cherry ragout
Cherry sorbet
Chocolate crumble
Chocolate mousse
Crunchy pearls
Kirsch foam
94
95
BAU.STEINE DISH VII
96
I
97
DISH VII
Cher ry or et Ch oc olatemou s se
_ _ _ _ _ _s _ _b_ _ __ PAGE 97 ------- - PAGE 97
Cherry i
a r Cherrygel
Kirs h
c foam
----- -
- PAGE 97
MENU
II
Chocolate crumble
TO SERVE
350g flour
250g butter
100g sugar First arrange the chocolate mousse in a glass
75g cocoa powder dish. Then layer cherry ragout, chocolate crumble
and crispy pearls in equally thick layers, one after
Work together all ingredients with your hands until the other. Finally serve the kirsch foam on top and
a fine crumble has formed. Then spread out evenly place a scoop of cherry sorbet on top. Complete
on baking trays covered with baking paper and with the frothy cherry air.
bake at 180•c for 15 minutes.
Crunchy pearls
98
I
99
DI SH VI 11
>RING
OF DESIRE<
PISTACHIOS
RASPBERRIES
LIMES
Lime cress
Lime drops
Lime gel
Pistachio cream
Pistachio sponge
Raspberry dashi
Raspberry gel
Raspberry segments
Raspberry sorbet
DISH VIII
>RING OF DESIRE<
PISTACHIO I RASPBERRY I LIME
TO SERVE
85g pistachios, ground 150g white couverture chocolate 250g frozen raspberries
125 g egg whites 125 g cocoa butter 25ml simple syrup ( 1:1)
80g egg yolks 3g green food colouring 12 g raspberry syrup (Monin) Lay the sprayed ring on the pre
82g sugar ½ vanilla pod cooled plate and warm for 8 minutes.
20g flour Melt the couverture chocolate and 1ml raspberry seed oil Decoratively arrange all the com
12 ml olive oil cocoa butter with the food colouring. 10ml grape seed oil ponents in a circle on the pistachio
When warmed to 38-40•c, fill into an ring. Finally place on each a >fake<
Mix all ingredients at level 10 in the airbrush pistol. Spray the frozen lime Marinate the raspberries with simple raspberry and a scoop of raspberry
Thermomix for 4 minutes. Put the parfaits evenly with the pistol. syrup and raspberry syrup. Add to sorbet and - when next to the guest -
mixture into an iSi-Siphon, load with a deep pan with the vanilla pod and pour the raspberry dashi in the centre
4 gas capsules and refrigerate for cover with aluminium foil. Cook in the of the ring until the bottom of the
12 hours. Fill a plastic beaker one Lime drops oven at 120·c for 1 hour. Then leave plate is evenly covered.
quarter full with it and cook for about suspended in a cloth strainer for 12
40 seconds in the microwave at 1000 128ml lime juice hours. Finally work both oils into the
watts. Allow the sponge to cool and 125ml white wine juice collected.
shape to the desired size. 60ml water
45g sugar
25 g basil Raspberry segments
Lime parfait 6g kaffir lime leaves
6g lemongrass 1 punnet fresh raspberries
75ml lime juice Zest of ½ untreated lime
25ml orange juice Blast freeze the whole raspberries
50g sugar Bring all ingredients to the boil and in liquid nitrogen. Then wrap in a
2 gelatine leaves leave to stand for 12 hours. Then cloth and beat so that the individual
15ml almond syrup strain and pour into small silicon segments break up. Freeze until
110g egg whites ball-shaped forms. Freeze in the blast ready to serve.
60g sugar freezer.
75ml cream, whipped
Garnish
Warm up lime juice, orange juice and Coating for lime drops
sugar. Soak the gelatine in ice-cold 1 pack lemon cress
water. Stir the almond syrup into 150ml water 8 fresh raspberries, without tops
the warm liquid and refrigerate. Beat 80ml lime juice
the egg white with the sugar and fold 20g sugar
into the cooled liquid. Fold in the 20g vegetarian gelatine (Sosa)
whipped cream and fill into ball shape 1g Citras
of 3cm diameter. Freeze in the blast
freezer. Bring all ingredients to the boil. Push
a toothpick into the centre of the
lime drops and while still frozen, dip
them carefully into the coating. Allow
the drops to thaw then remove the
toothpicks.
102
I
103
PARIS
BLUEFIN T UNA
CUCUMBER I COMBAVA I BLACK RICE VINEGAR
LANGO USTINE
KOSHIHIKARI I DAIKON I DASHI BEURRE BLANC
JOHN DORY
CARROT I PAK CHOI I SAVOURY MISO SOUP
VEAL 3
SWEETCORN I SPINACH I TRUFFLE
VENISON
AUBERGINE I ONION I SAUERBRATEN SAUCE
VERBENA
PEACH I RASPBERRY I MERINGUE
DARK CHOCOLATE
OLIVE OIL I CALAMANSI I FLEUR DE SEL
MENU
Ill
DISH I
RED GAMBERONI
CAVIAR
APPLE
LARDO SNOW
Apple gel
Beurre blanc sauce
Chive oil
Crisps
Gamberoni tartare
Granny Smith apple
Lardo snow
Osietra imperial caviar
110
111
DISH I
RED GAMBERONI
CAVIAR I APPLE I LARDO SNOW
240 g meat from red carabinero shrimp (approx. 6 50g white part of leek
large animals) ½ fennel
50g diced Granny Smith (diam. 0.2cm) 2 shallots
20g chives, finely chopped 2 mushrooms
50ml lemon vinaigrette (see page 348) 25ml olive oil
Salt, pepper, sugar 1 kg different shellfish
120g Osietra imperial caviar 50ml white wine
150ml Noilly Prat
Cut up the carabinero's meat to make the tartare. 5 peppercorns
Die the apple and add it and the chives. Season 1 bay leaf
with the lime vinaigrette, salt, pepper and sugar. 1 sprig of thyme
Divide up the seasoned tartare into portions 1.5 L water
weighing 30 g each and form them into rings (4 cm
diameter). Weigh out 15g caviar per portion and Cut the vegetables into a mirepoix and saute
form into a ring on the tartare. Cover and refriger in olive oil until translucent. Add the shellfish, add
ate until you are ready to serve. a bit of white wine and Noilly Prat and add the
seasoning. Then top it up with warm water. Allow
the stock to simmer for about 2 hours and then
Beurre blanc pass it through a fine sieve.
Lardo snow
100g Lardo
TO SERVE
300g green apple puree, sieved through a fine
cloth
3g agar-agar Place the tartare with its caviar topping in the
3g gellan gum centre of the plate. Remove the ring and place a
bit of lardo snow on top in the centre. Press in
Bring the ingredients to the boil and allow to cool 3 marigolds arounds each lardo snow and spray on
in a mould. Then use the Thermomix to beat the 3 dots of apple gel. Garnish the apple gel with the
mixture into a smooth gel. apple sticks. Finally pour the buerre blanc around
the tartare and set a green crisp on top of the lardo
snow.
Green crisps
5g flour
5g corn starch
50g veal stock (see page 344)
50ml water
8 g butter
30ml olive oil
5g green food colouring
Salt, pepper
1 L neutral oil for frying
Garnish
112
I
113
ME I
II
DISH II
BLUEFIN TUNA
CUCUMBER
COMBAVA
BLACK RICE VINEGAR
Avocado cream
Combava vinaigrette
Cucumber foam
Kimizu
Kiwi
Passion fruit core
Pickled cucumbers
Puffed rice
11
11
BAU.STEINE DISH II
116
I
117
DISH II
BLUEFIN TUNA
CUCUMBER I COMBAVA I BLACK RICE VINEGAR
Tuna _Cu
_ c_ u
_ m
_ b _ _ e_ar_ l_ s__
_ _ er_ p PAGE 117
Ki m i zu
TO SERVE
150ml liquid from juiced cucumbers 100g mealy potatoes
75g sour cream 500ml water
50g Greek yoghurt 20g parsley leaves Salt the tuna fish slices on both sides
30g creme fraiche 1 tbsp wakame seaweed powder and place them in a fan-like fashion
25 g Proespuma Salt, pepper on the plate. Then put on the formed
Juice of½ lime tartare behind them. Put on a tartare
30ml pickled gherkin juice Cook the potatoes until they are done roll and spray the cucumber foam
1 sheet of gelatine, softened and and then strain them. Keep the water behind the roll so that it does not
squeezed you cooked them in. Finely mix 90g touch the roll or the tartare. Garnish
of the cooked potatoes with 30 ml of the plate with avocado cream, kimizu,
Stir the cucumber juice with sour the cooking water in the Thermomix. cucumber elements and kiwi pearls.
cream, yogurt, creme fraiche and Add parsley and seaweed powder Using a fine microplane grater, grate
proespuma until smooth. Mix the and continue to mix until it becomes some kaffir lime zest over the plate.
lime juice with the pickled gherkin an even mixture. Season it with salt Drizzle the combava vinaigrette on
juice and then warm up the mixture. and pepper. Strain and spread out the plate. Arrange the blossoms,
Dissolve the gelatine in the liquid. 1 mm thick on a silicon mat. Dry in the crisps, cress, dill and puffed rice and
Combine both mixtures and pour dehydrator for at least 12 hours at finally put a scoop of cucumber ice
them into an iSi-Siphon. Add the gas 50 •c. Break it into the desired sizes cream on the plate.
of 2 capsules and let it stand in iced and store it in an airtight container.
water for 5 hours. Refrigerate until
needed.
Garnish
118
I
119
MENU
Ill
DISH Ill
LANGOUSTINE
KOSHIHIKARI
DA IKON
DASHI BEURRE BLANC
Daikon cress
Koshihikari rice
Langoustine
Pickled radish
Rice flakes
120
121
DISH 111
LANGOUSTINE
KOSHIHIKARI I DAIKON I DASHI BEURRE BLANC
Langoustines Koshihikari
Pickle-stock
300ml water
150ml rice vinegar
50ml mirin
15g salt
15g sugar
5 juniper berries
3 bay leaves
10 peppercorns
Pickled daikon
TO SERVE
1 large daikon (white radish)
Pickle-stock (see left)
1-1 ½ tbsp red beetroot powder Arrange the creamy koshikari lengthwise on a pre
warmed plate and place the langoustine on top.
Break up the radish and cut it into 1mm thick slices Lay the coins on the plate, while alternating with the
with the slicing machine. Cut out a total of 32 langoustines. Sprinkle the rice flakes on them. Place
slices (2 cm diameter) for the coins. Cut 32 strips the rolls around the langoustine and garnish with
(10 x 2cm) for the rolls. Pour half of the hot pickle daikon cress and bean blossoms. Add the daikon
stock over half each of the coins and strips. Colour oil and the hot dashi beurre blanc and pour them
the other half of the stock with the beetroot around the langoustine, drop-by-drop.
powder and pour this hot solution over the rest of
the radish strips and slices. Then refrigerate for
at least 24 hours. To serve, roll up the strips to
small rolls using a metal skewer (1 cm diameter) and
warm them up in the Hold-o-Mat at 62 •c for 10
minutes.
Garnish
122
I
123
MENU
Ill
DI SH IV
JOHN DORY
CARROT
PAK CHOI
SAVOURY MISO SOUP
Coriander oil
Edamame
John Dory
Miso oil
Miso soup
Pak choi
Razor clams
Shellfish oil
Soy sprouts
124
125
BAU.STEINE DISH IV
2 John Dory at 2-2.2 kg each 100 g shallots 1 L bouillabaisse stock (see page 128)
Salt, pepper 200 g butter 500 g egg whites
1 L grapeseed oil 750 g carrots 250 g clarifying meat (finely minced chicken meat}
30g miso paste for flaming (see page 349) 50 g peeled ginger 1 clove of garlic
350 ml freshly pressed carrot juice ½ bulb of ginger
Fillet the fish, remove the skin and sinews, and then Salt, sugar 3 stalks of lemongrass
cut each fillet into 4 pieces. Set the smaller belly ½ shallot
pieces aside and use for other purposes. Finely chop the shallots and saute them in butter 100 g light miso paste
Salt and pepper the 8 pieces and briefly brown in until they are translucent. Dice the carrots and 20 saffron threads
pan on a piece of colourless baking paper. Then put then add them. Slice the ginger and then add it. 1 pinch of xanthan gum to thicken
it in the grapeseed oil, warmed to 48 •c and slow Then add a bit of carrot juice and cook the carrots Soy sauce to taste
cook it until it reaches a temperature of about till soft. Then mix in Thermomix until fine. Season
42 •c. Remove the fish from the oil, spread the to taste with salt and sugar and pass the mixture Mix all ingredients well and then clarify on low heat,
miso searing paste over it and quickly torch it with through a fine sieve. stirring constantly. Then strain through a cloth and
a culinary torch. collect the stock. Sightly thicken it with xanthan
gum and refine it with salt, sugar and, if needed, a
few drops of very high quality soy sauce.
126
I
127
DISH IV
JOHN DORY
CARROT I PAK CHOI I SAVOURY MISO SOUP
_Jo
_ _hn_D_ o_ry__
PAGE _C_a _rr_ o_t_ a_ n_d---'g=--i_n-=- r p_ur_e _e__ PAGE
ge_ ----'----
127
127
Finely chop the tomatoes, shallots, leeks, fennel, 1 kg razor clams (live, XL)
celery and garlic and sweat them with some oil in 75ml olive oil
a pot. Meanwhile melt the butter in a roasting 2 parsley stalks
pan and let the lobster sweat in it until all the liquid 75 g vegetable brunoise (carrots, celeriac, cour
has evaporated. Then add a bit of Neilly Prat and gette) blanched
white wine and add basil and thyme. When the 3 0g chives, finely chopped
stock has been reduced by a third, add it to the 100ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)
vegetables and top up with water. Let it all simmer Salt, pepper, sugar
for about 4 hours. Then skim off the fat and strain.
Keep the fat skimmed off for other uses (see Soak the razor clams in cold water for about 1
below). hour, then vacuum-seal them with olive oil and the
parsley (with stems) and cook at 72•c for 3.2 hours
in a bain-marie. Let it cool down in iced water.
She llfis h fat/oil Afterwards remove the clams from the shells and
cut them diagonally into 2mm thick slices. Mix with
Simmer the butter that rose to the top when cool the vegetable brunoise and chives, marinate in
ing and after the preparation of the bouillabaisse shiso vinaigrette and season with salt, pepper and
stock until only the >oil< remains. sugar. Warm up in the Hold-o-Mat to 62 •c for 10
minutes prior to serving.
MENU
Ill
TO SERVE
200 g pak choi stems
200 soy sprouts
2 tbsp vegetable oil Arrange the razor clams on a pre-warmed plate
10 ml dark sesame oil using a cut-out ring (5 cm diameter). Lay the fish
Salt, pepper, sugar on top and spread the saute evenly on the fish.
Attractively arrange the carrot-ginger puree, the
Cut the stems and sprouts into cubes (1.5-2 mm warmed edamame and the pak choi on the plate.
length at the edges). Then, at a high setting, briefly Make pearl droplets out of the parsley and the
saute them in vegetable oil and season them with shellfish oil. Mix them with the miso soup and pour
sesame oil, salt, pepper and sugar. over. Finally, drizzle the soup on the plate with miso
oil and coriander oil. Garnish it with watercress
leaves and shiso cress.
Garnish
100 g edamame
8 small pak choi leaves
1 tbsp finely sliced strips of parsley leaves
10 ml miso oil (see page 348)
10 ml coriander oil (see page 348)
8 watercress leaves (1 cm diameter)
8 watercress leaves (2 cm diameter)
8 tips of red shiso cress
128
I
129
DISH V
VEA L 3
SWEETCORN
SPINACH
TRUFFLE
Spinach
Spinach cream
Sweetcorn foam
Sweetcorn Malto
Truffle
Truffle jus
Veal sweetbreads
Veal tartare
BAU.STEINE DISH V
132
I
133
DISH V
VE AL 3
SWEETCORN I SPINACH I TRUFFLES
½ calf's head {eyes, skin, and nose removed) with 300g carrots
tongue 300g celery
200g white part of leek
Soak the calf's head well for 3 to 4 hours in cold 2 white onions
water. 4 bay leaves
8 cloves
Salt, freshly-ground black pepper
Picklestock
Chop the carrots, celery and leek into rough pieces
150g pickling salt and insert the bay leaves and cloves into the on
60g salt ions. Remove calf's head from the pickling solution
30 juniper berries and place it in a large pot with vegetables. Cover it
30 peppercorns with cold water and it weigh down with a sieve
6 thyme sprigs so that the calf's head is completely covered. Bring
6 bay leaves to the boil and then gently simmer. From time to
6 cloves time, ladle off the foam which rises up. After about
6 garlic 4 hours, remove the tongue and cheeks from the
3 L water cooking water. After a further 30 minutes remove
the rest of the head and leave to cool. Prepare
Mix all the ingredients together and pickle the calf's while still warm and remove fat.
head and tongue for 12 hours. Cut the individual pieces up into walnut sized
pieces and season them with salt and pepper. Then
fill the >calf's head mixture< into a terrine mould
lined with cling film, weight it down and keep it
refrigerated overnight until the mixture is firm.
Veal sweetbreads
-------- -
PAGE 133
Veal tartare
100g veal sweetbreads (see page 133) 10g dried sweetcorn 4 Perigord truffles at 20g each
250g calf's head (see left) 1 chicken skin, dried and finely chopped 1 tbsp madeira
80 g traditional chicken stuffing 10g cornflakes 1 tbsp red port
16 slices of black truffle (see right) 5g Malto 250g butter
10g flour 7.5g goose fat Salt, pepper
1 egg Salt, pepper, icing sugar
20g panko meal Wash the truffles carefully with a little water.
7 50ml palm oil for deep frying Finely chop the dried corn, the chicken skin and Remove the peel with a small knife and slice them
Maldon salt the cornflakes. Meanwhile, melt the goose fat and finely. Use the chopped peel in the tartare.
mix the Malto with the chopped ingredients. Stir Chip off 24 small >stones< (about 1cm in size) from
Cut the veal sweetbreads and calf's head into all of this into the liquid goose fat and season with two of the truffles and glaze them in butter with
2-3 mm thick slices, and make rings out of them salt, pepper and icing sugar. Store at 63 ·c in Hold- madeira and port. Season with salt and pepper.
(2cm diameter). Then thinly coat 3 slices of the o-mat until ready to use. Slice 16 thin slices from another truffle and cut out
calf's head and 2 slices of veal sweetbread with rings using a cutter (2cm diameter). Use the truffle
fowl stuffing. Put both of them together, alternating slices for the croquette. Slice the remainder of the
with the truffle slices and coat the outside of them Spinach cream truffles and then in fine julienne.
with the fowl stuffing. Bread them by dipping in Keep the final truffle and later grate finely using a
flour, egg and breadcrumbs one after the other 1kg spinach microplane grater.
and fry at 160·c until they are golden. Season with 50g nut butter
Maldon salt. Salt, pepper, sugar, nutmeg
1 pinch of xanthan gum Garnish
50ml whipped cream
Sweetcorn foam 32 small spinach leaves
PAGE 133
Remove stalks and any yellowish parts from spinach 10ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 3 48)
and then wash it well. Blanch it in boiling, salted Salt, pepper
Baby corn water and immediately shock it with ice water. 2 tbsp reduced veal jus (see page 3 4 4)
Then squeeze out the spinach well with a kitchen 1 tbsp cold salted butter
16 Baby corn cobs ( 5 cm) towel so that as little water as possible remains.
Salt, sugar Then put in a Pacojet container and freeze for at Marinate the spinach leaves in the shiso vinaigrette
30 g butter least 6 hours. Pacotize six times while still frozen and season them with salt and pepper. Warm up
until a fine cream is formed. Strain it through a fine the veal jus and whisk in the cold butter.
Blanch the sweetcorn in well salted, slightly sweet sieve before use. Heat in a pot and season with
ened water with a bit of butter until it becomes beurre noisette, salt, pepper, �ugar and nutmeg.
firm. Then immediately shock with ice water. Then Thicken with xanthan gum. Fold in the whipped
lightly caramelise the cobs in a pan with butter and cream to serve.
some sugar. Lastly, cut the corn cobs into halves.
TO SERVE
Pickled baby sweetcorn On a slightly pre-warmed plate, set out the veal
sweetbread, veal tartare, veal croquette and corn
4 baby corn cobs Malto in a circle. Lay the veal sweetbread on a small
50ml Melfor vinegar portion of the spinach salad. Garnish with marinat
50ml water ed spinach leaves, corn cobs, pickled sweetcorn
50g sugar and truffle and decorate with sweetcorn foam and
1 bay leaf freshly grated truffles. Finally finish the sweetbread
2 white peppercorns off with some veal jus.
2 juniper berries
DISH VI
VENISON
AUBERGINE
0 NI ON
SAUERBRATEN SAUCE
Aubergine caviar
Caramelised onions
Miso aubergine
Offal sandwich
Onion puree
Saddle of venison
Sauerbraten sauce
136
137
BAU.STEINE DISH VI
4 slices of bread for toasting 8 white pearl onions 500 g venison trimmings
200 g venison liver, very finely chopped 10 g butter Dice 50 g each of carrots, celery, mushrooms and
100 g venison heart, very finely chopped 10 g sugar shallots into walnut-sized pieces
80 g foie gras, sliced into brunoise (2 x 2) 10 ml old balsamic vinegar 1.2 L red wine
1 ½ tbsp candied shallot (without oil) Salt 10 juniper berries
10 g chopped parsley 2 bay leaves
Salt, pepper Vacuum-seal the pearl onions in their peel with 1 sprig of rosemary
5 tbsp vegetable oil for browning the butter and cook for 3 bursts of 30 seconds 15 white peppercorns
until soft. Remove the onions from the vacuum bag. 300 ml red port
Remove crusts from bread. Freeze and then halve Allow them to cool and then cut them in half. Re 100 ml madeira
the slices on slicing machine to make two 4 mm move the peel and lightly caramelise the remainder 50 ml dry sherry
square slices. Mix the remaining ingredients. Season in a pan with the sugar. Add balsamic vinegar and 300 ml game jus (see page 345)
them and spread them on the 4 slices of toast. season with salt. 400 ml veal jus (see page 344)
Cover this with the remaining 4 slices and toast in 3 tbsp PX sherry-vinegar
vegetable oil on both sides till golden-brown. Then 3 g xanthan gum (per 400 ml sauce)
put in the oven for 90 seconds at 200 ·c. Then 20 g cold butter
toast again fairly quickly in a Teflon pan in the hot
grapeseed oil. Lay the sandwiches on kitchen paper Marinate the venison trimmings and mirepoix in the
to dry off the oil thoroughly. Salt and then trim. red wine for 3 days. Then strain it, separate the
meat from the vegetables and dry them carefully.
Slowly bring the red wine to the boil and skim off
the particles that rise to the surface.
Brown the drained vegetables with the juniper
berries, bay, rosemary and pepper in a pot. After
a short while, add the trimmings and brown them
lightly.
Add red wine, port, madeira and sherry and reduce
to a third, then pour in the game jus and veal jus.
After simmering lightly for 3 hours, strain the sauce
and reduce a third of it (to roughly 400 mil. While
doing so, repeatedly skim off the particles that
have risen. Season the reduced sauce with sherry
vinegar and thicken with xanthan gum. Add the cold
butter before serving.
138
I
139
DISH VI
VENISON
AUBERGINE I ONION I SAUERBRATEN SAUCE
140
I
141
MENU
Ill
DISH VI I
VERBENA
PEACH
RASPBERRY
MERINGUE
Peach gel
Peach meringue
Peach sorbet
Raspberry Malto
Raspberry sorbet
Verbena cream
Verbena gel
142
143
DISH VI I
VERBENA
PEACH I RASPBERRY I MERINGUE
Peach meringue
TO SERVE
40g sugar
40g egg whites
40ml water Place a gateau in the centre of the
40ml peach liqueur (Manin) plate. Using the gels, spray a dab for
the ice cream and the dots. Apply
Whip 20g sugar and the egg white 2 small heaps of Mal to and create a
together in the mixer. Boil the re- dimple in the middle. Decorate the
maining sugar with the water and the gateaux with the blossoms, the cress
peach liquor to 125·c. Pour the syrup and the silver leaf. Place a fake rasp-
into the beaten egg whites in a berry in the Malta indentation and lay
thread-like fashion and then refrige- a quenelle of peach sorbet on top.
rate the mixture. Then spread the Decorate the sorbet and the gateaux
meringue mixture 2 mm thick on a with the peach meringue.
Silpat mat and dry in the oven at 75 •c
for about 12 hours.
Raspberry Malto
Decoration
15 violet blossoms
1 pack of atsina cress
2 sheets of silver leaf
144
I
145
MENU
Ill
DISH VI 11
DARK
CHOCOLATE
OLIVE OIL
CALAMANSI
FLEUR DE SEL
Brioche crisps
Calamansi gel
Chocolate ganache
Fleur de Sel
Kumquats
Olive oil
146
147
DISH VIII
DARK CHOCOLATE
OLIVE OIL I CALAMANSI I FLEUR DE SEL
Brioche crisps
TO SERVE
½ small brioche
2 tbsp olive oil
Salt Place 4 salt chocolate drops in an alternating pat
tern on the plate and garnish the plate with the gold
Briefly freeze the brioche and slice it into roughly leaf. Spray small dabs of calamansi gel between
1 mm thick slices using the slicing machine. Grease the drops. Decorate the dabs of gel with cress and
two Silpat mats with olive oil. Cut out rounds of kumquats. Stick the brioche crisps in the drops
brioche and spread them out on a mat. Cover with and lay them down, then top them with a scoop of
the second mat and bake in the oven at 160 •c for olive oil ice cream. Lightly sprinkle the drops with
about 14 minutes until golden. Fleur de Sel and drizzle the olive oil on the ice
cream and between the drops.
Garnish
1 gold leaf
1 bowl of atsina cress
Fleur de Sel
4 tbsp cold olive oil
148
I
149
TOKYO
150
151
never asked a supplier for the price« says Christian Bau.
»I never talk about money; I only speak about charac
teristics«. The Hawaiian palm heart that he serves with
wild hare - as a puree or in lightly coloured slices - cost
58 euros per kilo ...
Bau's awakening came on a trip to Tokyo in 2010, when,
coinciding with the appearance of the first Michelin
Guide for the Japanese capital, he visited the newly re
commended restaurants. Mizutani, Ichikawa, Okuda ...
Bau says »I was fascinated by the extreme concentra
tion of the Japanese masters. The perfect technique, the
rigor of the craft. Also their modesty, discipline and
seriousness. How hard they were on themselves, how
uncompromising. Every step counts«. This is a principle
which for Bau is symbolic, and characterises his own
uncompromising aesthetics. Every tiny element must
be accurate, the slightest divergences must be corrected.
This is a demand which lies at the very heart of his cui
sine and which some can't live up to. A demand which
also makes things difficult - for Bau himself and for
those around him. »There are some things which one
simply cannot do« is all he has to say on this topic.
152
I
153
>DELUXE< SUSHI
KING CRAB I GILLARDEAU OYSTERS I BIJOU DE LA MER
BLUE LOBSTER
GREEN ZEBRA I BUFFALO MOZZARELLA I DASHI MELON
· ARTICHOKES
WALNUT I TRUFFLES I POMELO
TURBOT
RAZOR CLAMS I SPINACH I KATSUOBUSHI
WILD STRAWBERRIES
PLUM WINE I GREEN SHISO SORBET I CRISPS
DI SH I
>DELUXE<
SUSHI
KING CRAB
GILLARDEAU OYSTERS
BIJOU DE LA MER
Bijou de la mer
Gillardeau oysters
Sushi vinaigrette
156
157
DISH I
>DELUXE< SUSHI
KING CRAB I GILLARDEAU OYSTERS I BIJOU DE LA MER
Steam the live king crab at 100 'C for 12 minutes. 1 fillet of yellowfin mackerel or 1 large seabass
Then take off the legs and claws and shock it in ice (slaughtered using the ikejime method, 3kg gross
water. Steam the head for another 5 minutes at weight, filleted, ready-to-cook)
100·c and then also shock it in ice water. 2 00ml liquid marinade 1 (see below)
Carefully remove the meat from the legs and the
claws and free it from the pincers and the mem- Cut the fillet in half lengthwise and remove the
branes. When pulling out the meat, do so in smaller bones. Then take the dorsal part from the skin,
chunks. remove the fat and cut it into the shape you want.
Store the belly in the refrigerator for other uses.
Vacuum-seal the cleaned dorsal fillet with the liquid
marinade 1 and marinate for 2 hours. Then remove
it from the marinade, pat it dry and cut it into 16
100ml Shiro dashi slices, each 2 mm thick.
100ml higashimaru ramen soup (ready-made soy
sauce product)
250ml water Liquid marinade 1
50ml chanponzu
5g agar-agar 25g ginger
5g gel Ian gum 30g lemon grass
2 g kaffir lime leaves
Bring all the liquids to the boil and thicken with 2 g salt
agar-agar. Cool thoroughly and allow to gel. Then 350ml water
use the Thermomix to beat the mixture into a 1 tsp rice vinegar
smooth gel.
Peel the ginger and cut it into small pieces. Beat
the lemon grass and then it chop finely. Heat it
Sushi with the kaffir lime leaves, salt and water at 80 ·c
in a pot. Then cover with clingfilm and let it stand
240g shelled, cleaned king crab meat (see above) for 1 hour. Then strain, pour in rice vinegar and
50g soya gel (see above) refrigerate.
Zest of 1 untreated lime
Maldon salt
8 slices of peeled white radish, 1mm thick,
6 x 15cm wide
10 oysters (Gillardeau No 2)
Season the king crab flesh with soy gel, lime zest
and Maldon salt. Put the same amount of this Open the oysters and separate them from the
mixture in each of the radish slices. Cover the pre- muscle. Collect the oyster water and strain. Poach
pared rolls in cling foil and seal tightly. Finally allow the oysters in the oyster water at 42 ·c for 1 minute.
it to cool in the refrigerator for 30 minutes and Then remove the beard and slice the oysters into
portion out 2 sushi from each roll, each 6 cm long. 4 thin medallions.
MENU
IV
Soy coating
TO SERVE
72 ml soy tsuyu dashi (ready-made soy sauce
product)
72 ml higashimaru ramen soup (ready-made soy Place the whitefish on the sushi, brush with the soy
sauce product) coating and lay 2 oyster medallions on top. Then
195ml water decorate with a dab of soy gel next to the oysters
15 ml chanponzu and put the lobster caviar on top. Garnish with
3.2 g xanthan gum flowers and cress and arrange everything on the
plate. Finally, pour on the sushi vinaigrette and
Mix all the ingredients together and then add in the serve immediately.
xanthan gum.
Note: all the soy sauces and vinegars used for this
Sushi vinaigrette dish come from >FoodConnection<, Reinbek
Garnish
158
I
159
MENU
IV
DISH 11
BLUE
LOB-STER
GREEN ZEBRA
BUFFALO MOZZARELLA
DASHI MELON
Blue lobster
Buffalo mozzarella
Coriander oil
Dashi watermelon
Miso oil
Tomato gel
160
161
DI SH II
BLUE LOBSTER
GREEN ZEBRA I BUFFALO MOZZARELLA I DASHI MELON
Attach the lobsters individually to large cooking 4 cooked lobster tails, meat only
spoons with kitchen twine so that the tail takes a 50 ml lemon vinaigrette (see page 348)
straight shape. Then steam them at 100 ·c in the Maldon salt, freshly-ground black pepper
convection oven or the steamer for 4.30 minutes
and immediately shock in ice water. Then remove Cut the lobster tails in half, lengthwise Clean them
the claws and cook for another 9 minutes and and then cut them into 5-6 medallions. Marinate
shock in the same way. Remove the meat from the in a lime vinaigrette. Add salt and pepper and warm
cooled claw. Remove the protein, cover and keep them on a plate covered with cling film in the Hold
refrigerated on kitchen paper until use. Then o-Mat at 60 •c for 5 minutes.
take the meat from the lobster tails, wash it care
fully and handle it in the following manner:
Lobster croquette
8 lobster claws
2 tbsp blanched vegetable brunoise (carrots,
celeriac, courgette)
2 tbsp traditional fish stuffing
Salt, pepper
120 g kataifi pastry
500 ml palm fat
TO SERVE
250 ml Green zebra tomato stock (see left) 250 ml mozzarella whey (water)
6 g dried edamame 13.5 g vegetable gelatine (Sosa)
1 g dried ginger 175 g buffalo mozzarella Set the warmed lobster medallions in the centre
3 g dried shiitake mushrooms 7.5 g creme fraTche of the plate. Arrange 3 mozzarella pearls and 2
0.5 g dried garlic 1 g Gelespessa (Sosa) large and 3 small melon balls around them. Dab the
1 pinch of xanthan gum tomato gel on the plate and garnish it with cresses
Bring 200 ml of the whey to the boil and thicken it and flower petals. Finally pour on the tomato dashi
Mix the tomato stock with the dried ingredients in with vegetarian gelatine. Mix the remaining whey and serve the fried croquette separately.
a pot, warm up to 75 •c and let it stand u_ncovered with 25 g mozzarella in the Thermomix at 60 ·c.
for 1 hour. Then strain through a cloth sieve and Then add the remaining mozzarella, creme frakhe
thicken with the xanthan gum. and Gelespessa and mix again at 60 ·c . Strain the
mixture twice through a fine sieve, fill into a silicon
mini-ball mould (10 g per ball) and freeze for at
To finish least 8 hours. Take the frozen balls from the mould,
stick a toothpick in each one and dip them in the
250 ml thick, flavoured tomato dashi (see above) hot brine coating. Let them thaw in the refrigerator
20 ml miso oil {see page 348) and remove the toothpick.
20 ml coriander oil (see page 348)
162
I
163
DISH 111
ARTICHOKE
WALNUT
TRUFFLE
PO MELO
Artichoke chips
Artichoke puree
Glazed artichokes
Grissini
Parmesan
Pomelo fillets
Pomelo gel
Rocket
Truffle
Truffle jus
Truffle vinaigrette
Walnut-parmesan paste
BAU.STEINE DISH Ill
800g tomatoes 100 g walnuts, without skins 100ml pomelo juice, freshly pressed
100g miso paste 40g parmesan, grated 50ml water
10g tarragon ½ tsp grated garlic 25g sugar
Salt, pepper ½ tsp grated ginger 2 g agar-agar
16 baby artichokes Zest of½ lime 2g gellan gum
Juice from 3 limes, mixed with 750ml water 1 tbsp walnut oil
50g finely diced shallots 1 tbsp olive oil Bring all ingredients to the boil and allow to cool.
50g diced mushrooms Salt, pepper Whip the mixture to a smooth gel in the Thermomix
2 tbsp vegetable oil and pass it through a fine strainer.
70ml white wine Roast half of the walnuts. Then put all ingredients
50ml Noilly Prat in a Pacojet container and pacotize them three
sugar times. Season with salt and pepper and form into
10g basil scoops using 2 spoons.
10g thyme
50g butter
166
I
167
DISH 111
ARTICHOKE
WALNUT I TRUFFLES I POMELO
2 artichokes
Artichoke puree Juice of 1 lime, mixed with water
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
6 large artichokes Salt
Juice from 3 limes, mixed with 750 ml water
100 g finely diced shallots Clean the artichokes and store them in lime water.
100 g diced mushrooms Heat the oil to 140 ·c. Cut thin slices of artichokes
2 tbsp vegetable oil with a vegetable slicer and blanch them immedi
50 ml white wine ately in boiling salted water. Let them cool briefly in
30 ml Neilly Prat ice water and allow them to dry. Then fry in oil until
300 ml reduced artichoke stock (see page 167) golden. Season with salt and keep warm.
50 ml cream
30 g creme frakhe
Salt, pepper, sugar Artichoke cubes
Clean the artichokes and store them in lime water. Juice from 2 limes
Lightly saute the shallots and mushrooms in oil 500 ml water
without colouring. Dice and add the artichokes. 2 large artichokes
Then add white wine and Neilly Prat. Reduce the 1 tbsp vegetable oil
mixture and then fill it up with stock and cream. Salt, sugar
Cook the artichokes until they become soft. Then
process with the Thermomix until finely mixed. Mix lime juice and water. Clean the artichokes and
Add creme frakhe, season with salt, pepper and store them in lime water. Then cut into 2 mm cubes
sugar and pass through a fine sieve. and briefly saute them in oil in a hot pan. Season
with salt and pepper and use for the truffle vinai
grette (see right).
Artichoke stock
1st mixture
300 g washed artichoke segments
4 shallots
8 mushrooms
20 g ginger, finely-chopped
2 stalks of finely-chopped lemongrass
Olive oil
250 ml white wine
3 thyme sprigs
3 L chicken stock (see page 345)
Salt, pepper
Grissini
Walnut
--- - PAGE 167
-
75 flour
6 ml olive oil
P_o_m_ e_ lo
_ _ge_ _l__ 6 g porcini powder
_ PAGE 167
2 g yeast
45 ml chicken stock (see page 345)
Pomelo 4g salt
1 pomelo (or pink grapefruit) Process all ingredients to a smooth dough and let
it stand for about 1 hour in cling film. Then sift
Using a knife, separate the pomelo from the skin some flour onto the countertop and roll it out to
and cut it into segments. Cut the segments into a thickness of 2 mm. Cut out strips that are 2 mm
2cm pieces. wide and 16cm long. Put the dough strips on a
baking pan that is covered with a Silpat mat and
bake at 160 ·c for 7-9 minutes.
Truffle
168
I
169
DISH IV
TURBOT
RAZOR CLAMS
SPINACH
KATSUOBUSHI
Chive oil
Dashi butter
Katsuobushi jus
Pearl onions
Razor clams
Spinach
Spinach puree
Thai leeks
Turbot
Watercress leaves
DISH IV
TURBOT
RAZOR CLAMS I SPINACH I KATSUOBUSHI
2 Turbot fillets (1 large and 1 small back fillet) from a 250 ml white wine
5 kg French turbot 750 ml dashi (see page 347)
1 L water 100 g salted raw milk butter
80 g salt 100 g sweet cream butter
150 g salted butter Salt, cayenne pepper
80 g butter 50 g chives, chopped small
40g miso paste for flaming (see page 349)
Reduce the white wine by a third and then pour in
Cut the turbot with the skin into 4 hand-sized the dashi. Reduce to 200 ml. Then put in the butter
pieces. Mix water and salt to an 8 % brine solution and season to taste with salt, cayenne pepper and
and marinade the turbot in it for 18 minutes. dashi. Foam up shortly before serving and add
Then pat the fish dry, cover it with thin strips of chives.
salted butter and vacuum seal it. Then cook it at
48 'C in the bain-marie for 9 minutes. Remove it
from the water and leave it to rest in a warm place Miso paste for searing
for about 6 minutes. Remove it from the bag.
Dry it and heat the butter in a pan until it begins to 85 g light miso paste
foam. Baste the turbot and sear the skin with a 1 7 g honey
culinary torch until the skin can be easily removed. 17 ml mirin
Then thinly coat the outer side of the fish with 8.5 g salt
the searing paste and then torch it again. Let the
fish stand in a warm place for 2-3 minutes, and Mix all the ingredients and refrigerate. Stir up again
then slice it. before use. Coat the fish with it on the fillet side
after browning and caramelise the paste with the
culinary torch.
Razor clams
1 kg razor clams
30 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)
Salt, pepper
TO SERVE
1 turbot head 750 g fresh spinach
1 carrot Salt
1 shallot 100 ml cream Place the turbot in the centre of a warmed plate.
1 clove of garlic 2 tbsp butter Arrange the spinach puree, Thai leeks and pearl
3 tbsp vegetable oil White pepper, nutmeg onions around it and garnish with marinated
0.75 ml veal jus (see page 344) 50 g brown sugar spinach and watercress leaves. Finally pour on the
20 g bonito flakes (katsuobushil 2 tbsp brown butter hot turbot jus and the foamed dashi butter and
2 tbsp low-salt soy sauce finish it with chive oil.
4 g xanthan gum Clean the spinach thoroughly and remove stalks.
Blanch in salt water and shock in iced water. Rinse
Cut the turbot head into quarters and soak it out the blanched spinach in order to remove
for about 30 minutes. Then store it in iced water all excess liquid. Then put it in Pacojet container
for 24 hours. and freeze for 12 hours. Then pacotize at least
Cut the carrot and shallot into slices, cut the garlic three times. Freeze the spinach >mat< after each
clove in half and slow cook all these ingredients pacotizing. To serve, put the spinach mat with
in oil. Cook the soaked turbot head in the oven at cream and butter in a pot and bring to the boil.
160 'C for 1 hour. Turn the head once during the Season it with salt, pepper, sugar, nutmeg. and
cooking. Then bring the turbot head to the boil brown butter. If necessary, strain the puree in or-
once in a pot with the vegetables and the veal jus der to remove the remaining pieces of spinach.
and then let it simmer it for 1 hour at low heat.
Then strain and heat the stock to 80 'C. Add 20 g
bonito flakes per litre stock and let it stand for Pearl onions
1 more hour. Finally, pass it through a line sieve,
season to taste with soy sauce and thicken with 10 small pearl onions
xanthan gum. 50ml water
50 ml white balsamic vinegar
50 g sugar
Thai leeks 2 g salt
16 stems of line Thai leeks (garlic chives) Peel the pearl onions. Bring the remaining ingre
20 g butter dients to the boil and pour over peeled onions. Let
40 L chicken stock (see page 345) them stand for 12 hours. Then cut the pearl onions
Salt, pepper, sugar lengthwise in half and sear them with a culinary
torch. Remove the skins from the pearl onions,
Cut the Thai leeks into 7 cm lengths, removing without damaging the seared side. Select the most
the outer skin. Then sweat in butter, deglaze with attractive pearl onions skins.
chicken stock and stew lightly in it. Season to
taste with salt, pepper and sugar. Garnish
172
I
173
MENU
IV
DISH V
Abalone
Beech mushrooms
Chawanmushi
Coriander leaves
Edamame
Enoki
Goose liver
Miso oil
Red Gamberoni
Shellfish oil
Sweetcorn
Truffle
174
175
BAU.STEINE DISH V
500 g pork neck 400 ml dashi (see page 347) 4 red gamberoni, without the shell (6/8 calibration)
500 g chicken breast 1.5 g bonito flakes Salt, pepper
500 ml low-salt soy sauce 1 g kaffir limes
100 g mu err (wood ear) mushrooms, dried 2g ginger Put each gamberoni on a wooden skewer
100 g shiitake mushrooms, dried 2.2g kombu (Schaschlik) right through the middle, so that it
100 g enoki mushrooms, dried 0.5 g unwaxed yuzu zest (or lemon zest) can remain straight when it is being cooked. Then
500 ml warm water 3.5 ml white soy sauce season on all sides with salt and pepper and briefly
2 tbsp vegetable oil 8 g oysters saute them in a hot Teflon pan (60-80 seconds).
50 ml Bordeaux vinegar 4 ml Jakobs dashi (finished product) Remove the skewer and cut each gamberoni into
50 ml rice vinegar 50 ml cream 1 cm thick pieces. The gamberoni should be thor
1 garlic bulb 4 egg yolks oughly translucent.
1 L chicken stock (see page 345) 4 eggs
1 chili pod Salt, sugar
10 g coriander
Heat the dashi to 70 ·c, then add all the ingredients
Trim the pork neck and chicken the breast and except the cream and the eggs. Cover and let stand
chop them into small pieces. Marinate the meat in for 30 minutes. Then strain, add the cream and
the soy sauce and let it stand for 30 minutes. eggs and mix well. Season it with salt and sugar. Fill
Lay the dried mushrooms in warm water and let a porcelain bowl (or 8-9cm diameter Asian teacup)
them also stand for 30 minutes. Then put the meat and place it in a deep roasting pan. Cover the tray
in a sieve, allow it to drain well and fry it in oil in a with aluminium foil and heat at 80 ·c for 35-40
very hot pot. Add Bordeaux and rice vinegar as well minutes in a steam oven. When removing from
as garlic. Then add the mushrooms along with the oven, ensure that the chawanmushi has thickened .
mushroom water. Top up with chicken stock and
add the chilli and the coriander. Bring to the boil
once and then let it stand for about 5 hours. Finally
strain the soup.
_ _ r if
_Cla _ i_n_g _ t_he_ _H_o_t _& _ S_ o_ u_r _S _o_ u _p__ PAGE 178
_ y
_H_ot
_ &
_ _ S_o_ur
_ S
_ o _ __,p__ PAG
_ u Insert
E 177
40 enoki mushrooms
Clarifying the Hot& So ur Soup 40 mu err (wood ear) mushrooms
40 beech mushrooms
1 L Hot & Sour Soup (see page 177) 1 tbsp vegetable oil
500 ml liquid egg white Salt, pepper
250 g clarifying meat (minced chicken meat) 40 edamame
40 kernels of corn
Blend all ingredients with a hand-held blender and 24 chilli threads
bring the mixture to the boil in the soup on low 1 x 30-40 g truffles, peeled
heat. During this process, continually remove the 200 g fry-ready goose liver, best quality, nerves
mixture from the bottom of the pot to prevent removed
sticking. Then strain the clarified soup through a
cloth strainer. Trim the enoki tips to a length of about 2 cm. Re-
move the mu err mushrooms from the soup mixture
and cut them into small triangles of 1 cm in length.
Arom atising the Hot& SourSoup Shorten the beech mushrooms to about 2 cm,
brown in vegetable oil and season with salt and
1 L clarified Hot & Sour Soup (see page 177) pepper. Remove the skin from the edamame and
1 red chilli, without seeds warm it up in some hot & sour soup. Lightly sear
100 g coriander the sweetcorn kernels using a culinary torch and
20 g ginger then warm them up in the soup, too.
2 tbsp soy sauce, best quality For the chilli threads, cut a chilli into very fine
approx. 4 g xanthan gum strips and place them in iced water until they curl
up. For the truffle coins, cut a truffle in thin slices
Heat up the soup then add all ingredients and let it and cut out 24 coins with a ring (3 cm diameter).
stand for about 10 minutes. Then strain and lightly Cut the goose liver into 2 cm thick slices and
thicken it with the xanthan gum. season it with salt and pepper. Then vacuum seal
each slice separately and cook them for 9 minutes
at 58 •c in the bain-marie. Then allow the slices
Chawanmushi to cool completely in iced water. Cut them into
- - -----PAGE 177
cubes and brown on all sides with a culinary torch.
Finally, cook the goose liver cubes for a further
2 minutes in the oven at 200 ·c until done.
MENU
IV
Abalone
TO SERVE
2 large, live abalones
10 ml dashi (see page 347)
10 ml light brown soy sauce Briefly warm up the bowl with the chawanmushi
10g kombu in the oven at 120'C. Then place the king prawns,
abalone and goose liver cubes on top. Then distrib
Cut the abalones from their shells, wash, clean and ute enoki mushrooms, mu err mushrooms, beech
hit gently with a tenderiser. Then put the other mushrooms, edamame, chilli threads, truffle,
ingredients into a vacuum pouch and heat at 72 'C sweetcorn and coriander leaves evenly in the bowl.
in a bain-marie for 12 hours. Then them cool off Pour the heated Hot & Sour Soup over the dish and
and cut them into 1 mm thick slices. Before serving drizzle finish it off by drizzling miso oil and shellfish
3 slices per portion, warm them up to 63 ·c in the oil onto it.
Hold-o-mat for 5 minutes.
Red Gamberoni
- ----- -
PAGE 177
Garnish
24 coriander leaves
Miso oil (see page 348)
Shellfish oil (see page 128)
178
I
179
MENU
IV
DI SH VI
LAMB
AUBERGINE
PEPPERS
M'HAMSA
BLACK GARLIC
Aubergine foam
Aubergine puree
Baked aubergine
Coriander oil
Lambjus
M'Hamsa
Paprika drops
Pearl onions
Pommes soufflees
Saddle of lamb
180
181
BAU.STEINE DISH VI
4 pieces of deboned saddle of lamb at 180g with 1 small firm aubergine 50g carrots
fat covering it, matured for 14 days on the bone Vegetable oil for deep-frying 50g celery
(recommendation: lamb from Hofgut Pelting) 25ml sake 70g mushrooms
Salt, pepper 25ml mirin 70g shallots
2 tbsp vegetable oil 25g brown sugar 1 garlic bulb
50g butter 50g miso paste 4 tbsp vegetable oil
3 cloves of garlic 3g sesame seeds 1kg shoulder of lamb
3 thyme sprigs 3g salt 2 bay leaves
Fleur de Sel 1 pinch of Fleur de Sel 10 white peppercorns
5 juniper berries
Trim all but about 3mm off the fat covering from Cut the aubergine into slices and prick the skin 150ml madeira
the saddle of lamb and then make hash-like several times with a needle. Then fry it until it is 150ml red port
incisions into the thin coat of fat. Season the meat golden brown in oil at 180 •c for 75-90 seconds and 100ml Neilly Prat
with salt and pepper and brown all around but shock it in iced water. Then bring sake, mirin and 50ml sherry
primarily on the fat side. Then continue to cook sugar to the boil together, and mix with the miso 1.2 L veal jus (see page 344)
in the oven at 200 •c for 3 minutes, then allow it paste to form a coating. Lay the aubergine slices on Salt, pepper
to stand in the Hold-o-Mat at 63 ·c for at least a lightly dampened tray and brush them with the 1 pinch of xanthan gum
30 minutes. Baste the lamb in a pan with butter miso coating. Then cook in the over at 220•c for 3 50ml cold (!) Olive oil
foamed up with garlic and thyme until it shows a minutes and then grill them for 2 more minutes on
core temperature of 53 ·c. Let the meat stand the Green Egg Grill. Lightly roast the sesame seeds, Clean all the vegetables, cut them into hazel
again for 10 minutes. Before serving, brown the fat grind them in a mortar with the salt and sprinkle nut-sized pieces and brown them in vegetable oil.
side on the griddle until it is good and crispy. Then the mixture over the aubergine. Finally, season with Then roughly trim the shoulder of lamb, cut it also
cut it lengthwise and season with salt and coarsely Fleur de Sel. into hazelnut-sized pieces, add it to the vegetables
ground pepper. and cook them together. Add the seasonings and
slowly add the alcohol and allow the mixture to
completely reduce. Then fill to the top with veal
jus and allow to slowly simmer for 3 hours. Strain
the jus, reduce it to 400 ml, season it with salt and
pepper and thicken it with xanthan gum. Shortly
before serving, whip in the olive oil using a whisk.
182
I
183
DISH VI
LAMB
AUBERGINE I PEPPERS I M'HAMSA I BLACK GARLIC
TO SERVE
300 ml chicken stock (see page 345) 300g white onions 80g black garlic
150g hand-rolled couscous (M'Hamsa ) Salt, sugar 20 g black rice vinegar
1 yellow pepper 30g creme frakhe 20g low-salt soy sauce, best quality Arrange a scoop of the m'hamsa and
1 red pepper 1 pinch of xanthan gum Salt, sugar the baked aubergine in the centre
1 courgette Cayenne pepper of a pre-warmed plate. Place the
30g Taggiasca olives, chopped Press the garlic th rough a fine sieve saddle of lamb and the belly of lamb
1 tbsp vegetable oil Peel the onions and cut into 5mm and then mix it with rice vinegar and on the plate. Drape the aubergine
4 tbsp lamb jus (see page 183) strips. Season with salt and sugar and soy sauce in the Thermomix for 2 puree, the aubergine foam, the
30g butter leave for 20 minutes to draw off minutes at the highest setting until onion puree, the pepper cream and
20g parsley, finely chopped the water from the onions. Simmer fine. Pass it through a fine strainer the black garlic around them. Then
Salt, pepper, sugar the dehydrated onions in the resulting and season it with salt and sugar. garnish with onion skins, mini paprika
liquid in a pot until they become soft drops, pommes souffles and affilla
Reduce the chicken stock by a half. and then cover them with perforated cress. Drizzle the coriander oil in the
Then add the couscous. Remove it baking paper. Then drain the onions Red pepper cream onion skins and finally pour on the
from the heat and let it stand for 20 and mix them in the Thermomix hot sauce.
minutes. Then put it onto a tray and with creme frakhe and xanthan gum 5 red peppers
refrigerate. Peel the peppers. Make until the mixture is fine. Then pass 50ml vodka
2mm thick pieces by cutting through through a fine sieve and reduce in a approximately 4g agar-agar
the courgette skin and chopping pot until firm. Then put them in the approximately 2g gel Ian gum
everything into 2mm cubes. Briefly Thermomix again and mix them until Salt, pepper, sugar
saute the vegetable with the olives they are fine. Lastly, season them with
in some vegetable oil in a hot pan. salt, sugar and cayenne pepper and Remove the core from the pepper
Then add the couscous and cook until pass them through a fine strainer. and chop the pepper finely. Then sau
creamy with the lamb jus and some te in a very hot pot, add vodka and
butter. If needed, add some more allow to liquid to completely boil
chicken stock. Finally, add parsley and Onion crumble away. Then mix in a Thermomix until
season with salt, pepper and sugar. smooth. Weigh and add 1g agar-agar
1 white onion and 0.5g of gel Ian gum per 100g of
100g flour the mixture and, stirring constantly,
Pearl onions 1 pinch of paprika powder reduce the mixture in a pot until
500ml vegetable oil the mixture has acquired a strong,
10 small pearl onions 60g chopped almonds paprika red colour. Then let it cool,
50ml water Salt, sugar, cinnamon process in the Thermomix again
50ml white balsamic vinegar until fine and season with salt, pepper
50g sugar Peel the onions and slice into thin and sugar.
2g salt rings. Mix the flour and paprika pow
der, cover the onion rings with the
Peel the pearl onions. Bring the mixture and then deep fry at 160 •c. Garnish
remaining ingredients to the boil and Immediately salt the onion rings
pour over peeled onions. Let them and add a little sugar. Then lightly 24 red mini paprika drops (ready
stand for 12 hours. Then cut the pearl roast the chopped almonds in the made product ) lightly warmed
onions in half lengthwise and sear oven at 200 •c. Chop the deep-fried 8 traditional pommes soufflees
them with a culinary torch. Remove onion rings finely. Mix them with the 8 affilla cress tips
the skins from the pearl onions, with almonds and season them with salt, 10ml coriander oil (see page 348)
out damaging the seared side. Select sugar and a pinch of cinnamon.
the most attractive pearl onions skins.
184
I
185
MENU
IV
DISH VII
WILD
STRAWBERRIES
PLUM WINE
GREEN SHISO SORBET
CRISPS
Crispy strings
Strawberry soup
Wild strawberries
186
187
DISH VII
WILD STRAWBERRIES
PLUM WINE I GREEN SHISO SORBET I CRISPS
TO SERVE
188
I
189
MENU
IV
DISH VI 11
COCONUT YUZU
ICE CREAM
VITAMIN-RICH BERRIES
190
191
BAU.STEINE DISH VIII
520g passion fruit puree 200g pineapple juice 560g coconut puree
160g sugar 100g pineapple puree 440g milk
270g butter 100g mango puree 50 g glucose syrup
240g egg yolks 50g coconut puree 50g coconut flakes, toasted
120g egg whites 50g brown sugar 160g sugar
8 gelatine leaves Pulp from ½ vanilla pod 40g coconut liqueur (batida de coco)
6g agar-agar 100g egg yolks
Heat the passion fruit puree, the sugar and the 6g gellan gum 10g yuzu flavour
butter to 8o·c in the Thermomix. Add egg yolks and 40ml yuzu juice
egg whites and make a rose out of it. Soak the Bring all ingredients to the boil and boil them for 1
gelatine in ice-cold water and then add the gelatine minute. Pour the mixture onto a tray and then allow Bring the coconut puree, milk, glucose and coco
to the egg mixture. Fill the mixture into 2.3 x 2.3cm it to cool. Then mix it in Thermomix until smooth. nut flakes to the boil, cover and let it stand for
silicon moulds, smooth out the top of it with a 12 hours. Then strain the flavoured milk and emulsify
palette knife and freeze it in a blast freezer. Allow it with sugar, batida de coco and the egg yolks.
it to become firm and then carefully remove it from Then add yuzu flavour and yuzu juice, fill them
the mould. (Note: this mixture is enough for about into 2 Pacojet containers and freeze. Pacotize as
2 mats, a total of 108 pieces) required.
Coconut coating
192
I
193
DISH VIII
Passion
- fr uit cream
------- PAGE
_E_xo_ t_ ic_ �ge_ _l __ Yoghurt sponge
193 PAGE 193
194
I
195
THE
KITCHEN
196
197
drying edible caramel paper ... there are hundreds, thou
sands, even tens of thousand of hand movements. At the
serving counter there are two waiters polishing plates
and in the background a dishwasher is peeling shallots.
Everything has to be ready by 5 p.m., and everything
else that has already been prepared is hidden away in
drawers, cupboards, pots, boxes and bottles. The grill is
scoured with steel wool and all around the worktops are
shining. Christian Bau tests every stock and every vin
aigrette, nods his head approvingly or gives advice on
what's missing, then the storm begins ...
»Cooking at the very highest level«, as Eckart Witzig
mann said once, »is like driving a Formula 1 race twice
a day«: Intense concentration, zero tolerance for failure
and always, always against the clock. There is absolute
calm when the food is arranged on the plate with up to
five chefs working at the same time on the same plate.
Only on rare occasions will a hand tremble a little when
placing a tiny leaf of shiso cress on a miniscule dab of gel.
Christian Bau's authority over his team derives from the
fact that he has an unrivalled command of his craft. He
is able to cook every dish at every post in the kitchen
without exception. In twenty years at Schloss Berg he
has never let a plate leave his kitchen which he hasn't
looked over first. From the first foie-gras macaroon to
the last praline there is one simple rule: »95 % is just not
good enough.«
198
I
199
SALMON FROM LOCH DUART [THE BELLY]
OYSTER I KUMQUAT I CUCUMBER
SCALLOPS
PUMPKIN I CHICKEN I WHITE TRUFFLE
CITRUS FRUITS
GREEK YOGHURT I CANDIED OLIVES I SPONGE
DISH I
LOCH DUART
SALMON
[THE BELLY]
OYSTER
KUMQUAT
CUCUMBER
Citrus gel
Cucumber gel
Cucumber kimchi
Cucumbers
Hijiki
Kimizu
Kumquats
Oyster
Oyster cream
Passe-pierre seaweed
Salmon belly
Seaweed chip
Tomato dashi
202
203
BAU.STEINE DISH I
1 x 5.5kg Scottish Salmon from Loch Du art 100ml low-salt soy sauce For the stock
100ml mirin
Wash, fillet and debone the salmon in preparation 1 pinch of Kimchi spice mixture 400g ripe, red tomatoes
for cooking. Separate the skin from the remainder 50ml rice vinegar 400g ripe green zebra tomatoes
of the fish. Remove any remaining fat and cut the 4 untreated baby cucumbers 50g light miso paste
fillet lengthwise in half. Store the dorsal portion of 5g basil
the fish in the refrigerator for further use. Mix the soy sauce, mirin, kimchi spice mixture and 5g coriander
rice vinegar. 3g tarragon
Slice 2 baby cucumbers into 8 mm slices. Slice the
For the marinade remaining cucumbers into thin slices. Put them in Puree all the ingredients in the Thermomix and
separate vacuum pouches and vacuum-seal them then hang the out in a cloth strainer. Collect the
200g salt with the stock. liquid.
100g brown sugar for sprinkling
Mix the two ingredients together and marinade the To flavour the tomato dashi
salmon for 25 minutes. Then wash and pat it down
to dry it with a paper towel. Cold smoke the salmon 250g tomato water (see above)
for 2 minutes. Then vacuum seal it to a level of 6 g edamame, dried
40 % and slow-cook it for 10 minutes at 40 ·c in a 3g shiitake mushrooms, dried
bain-marie. Cool it down in ice water for 30 min 1g ginger, dried
utes. Remove the salmon from the vacuum pouch 0.25g garlic, dried
and brown it. 0.2g xanthan gum
20ml coriander oil (see page 348)
10ml miso oil (see page 348)
Sauce for searing
Heat all the ingredients to 80 ·c except the xanthan
100ml low-salt soy sauce gum, the coriander and the miso oil. Then cover
50ml mirin and let stand for 1 hour. Strain and bind with the
xanthan gum. Mix the coriander oil and the miso oil
Mix both ingredients and pour over the cooked into a fine-beaded mixture.
salmon until completely moist. Then sear with a
culinary torch in order to lightly caramelise the
mixture. Refrigerate the salmon and before serving.
Portion out into 24 slices, each 7 mm thick.
204
I
205
DISH I
15 g calamansi puree
60g bergamot puree
45 ml fresh yuzu juice
180ml water
30g sugar
4.2 g agar-agar
4.2 g gel Ian gum
1.8 g cassava
Cucumber gel
1 shallot cut into brunoise 20g dry hijiki 200g starchy potatoes, boiled
2 tbsp vegetable oil 65ml low-salt soy sauce 200ml water for boiling potatoes
30ml white wine 50ml mirin 20g plucked parsley
75ml dashi 125ml rice vinegar 20g plucked chervil
3 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) 40g sugar 1g wakame seaweed powder
90g creme fraiche 25 ml water
10g chives Mix all the ingredients in the Thermomix at 70 ·c
10g coriander Blanch the hijiki seaweed in water until it is al dente until they are smooth. Pass through a conical
1 stalk of parsley and then drain. Bring the soy sauce, the mirin, the strainer. Spread the mixture thinly on a silicon mat
Agar-agar rice vinegar, the sugar and the water to the boil and and dry in the dehydrator for 12 hours. Then break
Gellan gum pour over the hijiki seaweed. into pieces of the required size.
206
I
207
MENU
V
DISH II
GOOSE LIVER
FROM LANDES
ARABICA COFFEE
PIEDMONT HAZELNUT
SOUR CHERRY
Cherry gel
Coffee gel
Piedmont hazelnuts
208
209
DISH 11
250 g foie gras terrine (see page 349) 375 ml white port
8 caramelised, whole Piedmont hazelnuts (see page 190 g foie gras terrine (see page 349)
271) dusted with gold powder. 190 g raw goose livers
75 g glucose syrup at 45'
Cut 8 x 20g cubes from the inside of the foie gras 120 ml sweet wine (Jurani;:on)
terrine. Important: Only use whole cubes, don't 60 g egg yolk
stick the side pieces together as otherwise the
structure of the liver will become too soft. Press Reduce the port to 150 ml. Then mix all the ingre
a caramelised hazelnut into each cube, roll into a dients except the egg yolk in the Thermomix at
smooth ball and refrigerate for 4 hours. As soon 80 ·c. Thicken with the egg yolk. Put two-thirds
as the goose liver balls are cold, stick a toothpick of the mixture in Pacojet container and freeze for
into each ball. 24 hours for later use. Pacotize as required. Use
the remaining third for the goose liver pearls (see
below).
Coffee jelly
Cherry gel
TO SERVE
25 ml water
50 g sugar
12.5 g isomalt Arrange a circle of chopped, caramelised hazelnuts
38 ml glucose syrup at 45• in the upper left-hand corner of the plate. Place a
5 g instant coffee (Nescafe) dab of sour cherry gel in the centre of the caramel
20 g butter ised hazelnuts and a dash in the lower right-hand
corner. Place a goose liver ball on top. Remove the
Heat the water, sugar, isomalt and glucose syrup toothpick and garnish with cherry gel, half a cara
to 155 ·c. Remove the mixture from the oven, and melised hazelnut, a sugared coffee chip and a leaf
then stir in the instant coffee until smooth. Pour of honey cress. Then scatter the goose liver pearls
onto a Silpat mat and leave to cool. As soon as the around the liver ball and place a scoop of goose
sugar mixture is cold, break it up and use the Ther liver ice cream on the strip of gel in the lower right
momix to pulverise it. Then sift a thin layer onto the hand corner. Season the ice cream with Maldon salt
Silpat mat, melt at 180 ·c and then allow to cool and then adorn with half a caramelised hazelnut.
again. Store in an airtight, dry location. Break into Serve a slice of toasted brioche on the side.
pieces in the required size when needed.
Garnish
210
I
211
MENU
V
DISH 111
SCALLOPS
PUMPKIN
CHICKEN
WHITE TRUFFLE
Baby mushrooms
Beech mushrooms
Butternut squash
Chickenjus
Chicken wings
Enoki mushrooms
Hokkaido pumpkin
Pumpkin puree
Scallops
Truffle foam
212
213
DISH 111
SCALLOPS
PUMPKIN I CHICKEN I WHITE TRUFFLE
Pumpkin puree
Season the chicken wings with salt and pepper. Pumpkin seed pesto
Clean the carrots and celery. Chop them into
hazelnut-sized cubes and then vacuum-seal them 100g pumpkin seeds
with the chicken wings and the oil. 20g water
Cook in a bain-marie at 85·c for 2 hours. Then 20g sugar
separate the wings at the joint and remove the 20ml pumpkin seed oil
central section from the bone. Refrigerate until you
are ready to serve. Toast the pumpkin seeds in an ungreased Teflon
pan. Meanwhile boil water and sugar at 112 •c and
add the pumpkin seeds. Simmer until the sugar has
caramelised. Then put the pumpkin seeds in the
Thermomix and process them with the pumpkin oil
mix until they are finely ground.
Put the mixture in a Pacojet container and put it
in the freezer for at least 6 hours. Pacotize three
times until needed.
MENU
V
1 butternut squash (1 kg) 100 g peeled shallots 200 ml chicken jus (see page 345)
100ml water 100 g white mushrooms 25 g cold butter
100 ml Melfor vinegar 100 g white part of leek Salt, pepper
100 g sugar 30 g butter
Salt, pepper Reduce the chicken jus by half and add the cold
Peel the pumpkin and use a cold-cut slicing ma 150 ml white port butter shortly before serving. Season with salt and
chine to cut 2 mm slices. Cut the slices into 16 75 ml Noilly Prat pepper if necessary.
7.5 x 2.2 cm strips. Out of the remaining squash, cut 400 ml chicken stock (see page 345)
out 16 circles with a 3 cm diameter and 16 wafers, 200 ml cream
of 1.5 cm diameter each. Bring the water, vinegar 12 g white truffles (use the offcuts) Garnish
and sugar to the boil and pour over the pumpkin 1 tsp white truffle oil (top quality)
strips and the wafers. Then cover it and let it stand Nutmeg 48 enoki mushroom caps
for 24 hours. 24 roasted pumpkin seeds
Chop the shallots, the white part of the leeks and 24 slices of finely grated, raw baby mushrooms
the mushrooms into small pieces. Saute the mix 35 g finely-grated Alba truffle (see left)
Pumpkin seed crunch ture in foaming butter and then season it with salt 16 leaves of tiny red-veined dock
and pepper. Add white wine and Noilly Prat and re 8 cooked Hokkaido pumpkin sections
100 g pumpkin seeds duce. Pour in chicken stock and reduce by a third. 8 heads of affilla cress
2 sheets of brick dough Add the cream and bring once to the boil. Clean
50 g egg white the truffles, peel gently and chop finely. Set the
Icing sugar more attractive part of the truffle aside for garnish.
Salt Then add the finely-chopped truffle and the truffle
oil to the cream mixture. Place it on the edge of
TO SERVE
Cut the pumpkin seeds into fine splinters. Then the stove for 30 minutes on moderate heat. Mix it
cut 3 cm diameter rings out of the brick dough and thoroughly with a hand-held blender. Strain and
coat them with egg white. Scatter the pumpkin season to taste with nutmeg. Season the scallops with salt and pepper and saute
seed strips over it and dust them with icing sugar. for 2 minutes on both sides in a Teflon pan until
Spread out onto a baking tray covered with baking they are translucent. Fry the chicken wings on the
paper. Place another sheet of baking paper on top Beech mushrooms skin side until crispen and place on a warmed plate
and weigh it down with another tray. Bake in the with a scallop.
oven for 8 minutes at 180 ·c until golden-yellow. 20 small white beech mushrooms Place dabs of pumpkin puree on the plate and
Then lightly salt the chips. 20 small brown beech mushrooms garnish the plate with the remaining components.
½ clove of garlic Finally, coat with the truffle foam and chicken jus.
15 g parsley
2 tbsp vegetable oil
Salt, pepper
Butter
214
I
215
MENU
V
DISH IV
SEA BASS
[IKEJIME]
BARBECUED EEL
AUBERGINE
KOJYU VINAIGRETTE
Aubergine
Aubergine foam
Aubergine puree
Barbecued eel
Cucumbers
Kojyu vinaigrette
Okra pods
Pearl onions
Sea bass
Shiso pesto
Spring onion
216
217
BAU.STEINE DISH IV
1 sea bass ( 3.1-3.3 kg) 1 smoked eel (around 400g) 1 shallot, finely chopped
(lkejime slaughtered) 1 tbsp transglutaminase 50g white part of leek, finely chopped
100ml Japanese leek oil
Note: 1 fish of this size provides 14-16 well-sized Skin the eel, remove bones and separate the meat 50ml mirin
portions. from the fat and oil. Then powder the bony side 50ml mizkan vinegar
with transglutaminase and >glue< it back into its 50ml white soy sauce
Vegetable oil original form. Roll tightly in clingfilm and refriger 1 pinch of xanthan gum
50g butter ate the eel for 3 hours. Then cut it into 1cm slices. 10g tapioca pearls
1 sprig of thyme When ready to serve, lay the pieces of eel on a 10g chives, finely chopped
1 sprig of rosemary grate and glaze with the teriyaki glaze (see below).
Salt, pepper Place the eel on a grate over glowing charcoals and Lightly saute the shallots and the leek in 25ml leek
allow it to caramelise gently. oil until colourless. Then add mirin, vinegar and
Scale, clean, fillet and debone the fish. Cut the white soy sauce. Vacuum-seal and let it stand for
kitchen-ready fillets into 70g portions and slice 48 hours. Then strain and bind it with the xanthan
away the skin. Before serving, fry the fish in a bit of Teriyaki glaze gum in order to make the base. Combine the base
oil to make the skin crispy. Then turn over the fish with the remaining leek oil at a ratio of 2:1 ( 2 parts
and flavour it with foamed butter, thyme, rosemary, 25ml mirin liquid, 1 part leek oil) to be able to use it as a vinai
salt and pepper. The fish should have a core tem 25ml sake grette. Finally, boil the tapioca pearls until they are
perature of 42-43 ·c. 200ml chicken stock (see page 3 45) translucent and then, with the chives, stir then into
175 ml low-salt soy sauce the vinaigrette.
50g sugar
Miso paste for searing 1 star anise
15g cornstarch
8 5g light miso paste 2 tbsp honey
17g honey
17ml mirin Reduce the mirin and sake by half. Fill with chicken
8.5g salt stock and soy sauce and then reduce again by a
third. Add the sugar and star anise and let it stand
Mix all the ingredients and refrigerate. Stir up again for 3 0 minutes. Then strain and bind it with starch.
before use. After cooking, coat the fish on the filet Finally, season to taste with honey.
side and caramelise the paste with the culinary
torch.
218
I
219
DISH IV
8 aubergines
Misc paste for searing 8 tbsp olive oil
PAGE 219
Salt, pepper, sugar
8 thyme sprigs
Barbecued eel 8 rosemary sprigs
--- - - -- PAGE 219
Cut the aubergines into 12 cm long slices that are 50 g shallots, chopped small
each 7x7 mm thick. Mix the remaining ingredients 1 clove of garlic, crushed
into a marinade and then vacuum-seal them with 50 mushrooms, finely chopped
the aubergine strips. Steam the vacuumed-sealed 100 g misc paste
aubergines at 90 ·c for 11 minutes. Let the vacuum 70 m I sherry vinegar
pouch stand on ice for 24 hours. 200 ml veal jus (see page 344)
1 small sprig of thyme
1 small sprig of rosemary
Aubergine puree
200 g Aubergine puree (see left) 125 g flour 20 green shiso leaves
4 ml lemon juice 250 ml warm water 10 coriander leaves
5 g mustard 7 g yeast 5 mint leaves
2 eggs Salt 2 basil leaves
120 ml grape seed oil 100 g okra pods 2 tbsp white soy sauce
40 ml miso oil (see page 348) Vegetable oil 2 tbsp rice vinegar for sushi
Salt, pepper, sugar 1 tbsp almond semolina
1 pinch of cumin Mix the flour, water, yeast and 1 pinch of salt into a 2 tbsp grape seed oil
dough. Let it sit for about 1 hour. Then cut the okra Salt, sugar
Work the aubergine puree into a foam as described into 1 cm slices and remove the seeds. Then dust
under Vegetable Foam on page 349 and season to them lightly with flour. Coat them with the tempura Mix all the ingredients except the almond semolina
taste with cumin. dough and pre-bake them at 160 •c in oil until they in the mixer and then grind them into a pesto using
have a golden-yellow hue. Before serving, bake the a mortar. Add the grape seed oil and season to
okra at 160 'C in order for the tempura to become taste with salt and sugar.
Pearl onions crisp. Salt whilst still hot.
220
I
221
MENU
V
DISH V
VENDEE
GUINEA FOWL
RAZOR CLAMS
SMALL ARTICHOKES
PRESERVED LEMONS
Artichoke chips
Artichoke puree
Baby artichokes
Herb salad
Preserved lemon
Razor clams
222
223
BAU.STEINE DISH V
2 x 2.3-2.4 kg guinea fowl (with head and claws) 100 g shallots 1 kg razor clams (live, XU
100 g mushrooms 75 ml olive oil
Remove the head and claws from the guinea fowls. 100 g celery 2 parsley stalks
The birds should have been already hung for a good 50 g butter
amount of time. Separate the breasts and legs and 1 tbsp peppercorns, salt Soak the razor clams, then vacuum-seal with olive
trim them to make them ready for cooking. Remove 2 fresh bay leaves oil and parsley and cook at 72 'C for 3 hours 20
any giblets and imperfections from the carcass and 4 guinea fowl legs, trimmed and with bones and minutes in a bain-marie. Then cool down in icy wa
chop them up into hazelnut-sized pieces for the skin removed ter. Place the clams in a colander. Collect the clam
gravy. Pieces of cleaned guinea fowl (see below) juice and set aside. Then take out the clam meat
50 ml madeira from the shells and cut diagonally into slices.
50 ml Noilly Prat
Guinea fowl breasts 200ml port
750 ml chicken jus (see page 345) Razor clam salad
4 guinea fowl breasts (see above) Xanthan gum
Salt, pepper 250 g sliced razor clams (see above)
250 g salted butter Cut the vegetables to make a mirepoix and saute 100 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)
2 tbsp vegetable oil them lightly in butter. Then add seasoning, add the 1 tsp finely diced preserved lemon
2 tbsp butter diced guinea fowl drumsticks and the remainder of 1 tbsp fine chive roll
1 small sprig of thyme the bird and cook until all the liquid has evaporat Salt, pepper
1 small sprig of rosemary ed. Then add the madeira, Noilly Prat and port and
reduce again. Then fill with poultry jus and simmer Mix all ingredients together and bring slowly to
Season the prepared guinea fowl breasts with salt down by a third. Pass the sauce through a fine 50 •c in a pot. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
and pepper and coat them with wafer-thin (1 mm) sieve, season to taste and bind lightly with xanthan
slivers of butter. Shape the breasts and wrap tightly gum.
with clingfilm. Then vacuum-seal and cook at 60"C
for 25 minutes in a bain-marie.
The guinea fowl should have a core temperature of
50-52 •c. Then plunge the vacuum pouch with the
guinea fowl directly into cold water with ice-cubes.
To prepare, put the vacuumed breasts for 1 more
hour in the bain-marie at 48 ·c. Then, when the core
temperature reaches 48 ·c, take the breast out of
the vacuum pouch, season it with salt and pepper,
and crispen the skin in oil. Then baste it in the
foamy thyme and rosemary butter. 224
I
225
DISH V
800g tomatoes
Guinea fowl breasts 100 g miso paste
PAGE 225
10g tarragon
Salt, pepper
Guinea fowl jus 8 baby artichokes
PAGE 225
Juice from 3 limes, mixed with 750ml water
50g finely diced shallots
Razor clams 50g diced mushrooms
-- -
----PAGE 225
2 tbsp vegetable oil
70ml white wine
Razor clam salad 50ml Noilly Prat
--------PAGE 225
sugar
10g basil
Clam foam 10g thyme
50g butter
2 shallots
200g butter Mix the tomatoes, miso paste, tarragon and some
100ml Noilly Prat salt and pepper in a Thermomix until the mixture is
100 ml white wine finely mixed. Then leave to strain in a cloth strainer
Clam stock collected from razor clams over night. Store the liquid collected.
(see page 225) Then clean and turn the artichokes and store in
300ml dashi (see page 347) lime water. Saute the shallots and mushrooms
Salt, cayenne pepper in a pot until they become translucent. Add the
artichokes, wine and Noilly Prat. Reduce, fill up
Dice the shallots. Then saute them in 20g but- with tomato water and then bring to the boil. Add
ter until they become translucent and add Noilly salt, pepper, sugar, basil and thyme. Let it stand
Prat and white wine; then boil down to about 100 for about 10 minutes. Then take the artichokes out
ml. Add clam stock and dashi and then boil down of the stock. Separate and leave to cool. Boil down
again to about 200 ml. Then strain and work in the a third of the stock into a syrup. Quarter the arti
remaining small pieces of butter with a hand-held chokes and glaze and season to taste in a pan with
blender. Season to taste with salt and cayenne the stock reduction and butter.
pepper.
Artichoke chips
2 artichokes
Juice of 1 lime, mixed with water
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
Salt
Artichoke puree
TO SERVE
6 large artichokes
Juice from 3 limes, mixed with 750ml water
100 g finely diced shallots 16 thin (3 cm) strips of preserved lemon
100 g diced mushrooms
2 tbsp vegetable oil Warm the razor clams slightly and place them
50ml white wine evenly on the left side of a warmed plate. Arrange
30ml Neilly Prat the warm artichoke puree and the glazed baby
300 ml reduced artichoke stock (see left) artichokes on the right-hand side of the plate.
50ml cream Cut the crisped guinea fowl breast lengthwise in
30g creme fraiche half and place it in the centre of plate. Warm the
Salt, pepper, sugar razor clam mousse and froth it up with a hand-held
blender. Pour the foam onto the razor clams. Put
Clean the artichokes and store them in lime water. the marinated herb salad in small piles on top of
Saute the shallots and mushrooms briefly until they the guinea fowl breast and garnish each breast with
are translucent. Dice and add the artichokes. Then 4 preserved lemon strips and four artichoke chips.
add white wine and Neilly Prat. Reduce the mixture Pour on the hot guinea fowl jus.
and then fill it up with stock and cream. Cook the
artichokes until they become soft. Then mix in
Thermomix until they are finely mixed. Season to
taste with salt, pepper and sugar and pass through
a fine sieve.
Herb salad
Mix the tips of the frisee lettuce with the herbs and
the cress. Cut the radicchio lettuce into fine strips
and add it to the mixture. Marinate everything in
the vinaigrette and season to taste.
226
I
227
DISH VI
FLAT IRON
STEAK
CORN STRUCTURES
BLACK GARLIC
0 NION
Baby corns
Beef sauce
Corn cobs
Corn foam
Corn Malto
Onion crumble
Onion puree
Polenta
Ponzu gel
Short ribs
Short ribs Flat iron steak sieve, bind gently with xanthan gum
and season to taste with salt, pepper
2 L water 1 Wagyu flat iron steak, 1.5-1.8 kg Ode- and sherry vinegar.
200 g seasoning salt ally from Blackmore, Australia)
1 garlic bulb Salt, pepper
1 sprig of thyme Corn foam
1 sprig of rosemary Trim the steak and remove the silver
1 US, boneless short ribs (900-1000g) skin. Then remove the sinews that 50g each shallots, mushrooms, bacon
divide the upper and lower halves 1 tbsp maize germ oil
Stir water, seasoning and flavouring of the meat. The result should be 500g boiled corn
together with no heat and marinate 2 pieces of flat iron steak, both 250ml chicken stock (see page 345)
the meat for 12 hours. Rinse off with weighing 600-700 g. Season with salt 100ml cream
cold water and then dry. Vacuum-seal and pepper and brown on all sides. 1 sprig of thyme
and cook at 72 ·c in a bain-marie for Then 70% vacuum-seal each piece 2 bay leaves
28 hours. Cool down in icy water. Cut separately. Cook at 58 •c for 2 hours Salt, sugar
the meat into 2.4cm cubes and then in a bain-marie. Adjust the cooking 2 eggs
vacuum-seal. Before serving, warm up time to the thickness of the pieces. 6 g mustard
°
for 12 minutes at 57 C in a bain-ma Then take the meat out of the pouch 4ml lemon juice
rie. Then fry briefly on all sides. and let it sit in the Hold-o-mat for 120 ml grape seed oil
20 minutes at 64 ·c. After the meat 40 ml miso oil (see page 348)
has been allowed to stand, grill it for Pepper
Barbecue glaze a short amount of time on glowing
charcoals On the Big Green Egg), so Slice shallots, mushrooms and bacon
1.5g white peppercorns that a light crust appears (core tem into hazelnut-sized cubes and saute
2.5g coriander seeds perature 55 "C). in oil until they are translucent. Add
1 g aniseed the corn, chicken stock and cream.
0.5g cloves Add thyme and bay leaves and lightly
1 g Szechuan pepper Beef sauce season with salt and sugar. Cover
5g Madras curry the pot with a sheet of baking paper
2. 5g sweet paprika powder 50g each of carrots, shallots, celery, and boil the contents for about 2
1.5g ground caraway and mushrooms hours until they are soft. Then strain.
40 ml red wine vinegar Butter Put the corn in a Pacojet container
100ml soy sauce 500g steak and place the container in the freezer
200g honey 1 tbsp white peppercorns for at least 12 hours. Then Pacotize
6 tbsp chive rolls 1 sprig of thyme at least eight times in order to pro
1 sprig of rosemary duce a fine corn puree. Weigh off
Grind all the spices in a mortar and 5 crushed cloves of garlic 200g of the resulting puree and then
then gently heat them in a pot over a 400 ml red wine (Cote du Rhone) mix with eggs, mustard and lemon
very low flame. Add red wine vinegar 100ml red port juice in the Thermomix until they
and reduce until almost all the liquid 100ml madeira become fine. Pour in a thin stream of
has disappeared. Add the soy sauce 500 ml veal jus (see page 344) oil. Season to taste with salt, sugar
and simmer gently for 25 minutes. Xanthan gum and pepper and pass through a fine
Then add the honey and simmer for Salt, pepper strainer. Put the mixture into an
a further 30 minutes until a light 1 tbsp sherry vinegar XO iSi-Siphon and load with 2 gas cap
ly-bound glaze has formed. Then pass sules. Store at 65 •c in a bain-marie
the mixture through a very fine sieve Cut the vegetables into hazel until needed.
and keep warm. Before serving, coat nut-sized pieces and then brown
the shoulder pieces (see right) and them in a pot with a little butter. Cut
short rib cubes with the warm barbe the meat into pieces. Add it to the
cue glaze. Sprinkle the flat iron pieces vegetables and brown. Add seasoning,
with chives and cut into 4 portions. herbs and garlic and brown. Then add
the alcohol and reduce to a third.
Then fill up with the veal jus and
simmer on a very low flame for about
3 hours. Lastly pass through a conical
MENU
V
Baby corn minutes on a very low flame until the Onion crumble Corn Malto
mixture separates from the bottom of
8 Baby corn cobs (7 cm) the pot. Next spread out the polenta 1 white onion 20g dried corn
Salt, sugar in a 3cm layer on a mould covered 100g flour Skin of 2 chicken breasts, dried and
Butter for blanching with baking paper and allow to cool 1 pinch of paprika powder finely chopped
30g butter thoroughly. Cut into 2.5cm square 500ml vegetable oil 20g cornflakes
cubes, dust with flour and then brown 60 g chopped almonds 10g Malto
Blanch the corn in well-salted and on all sides in the remaining oil until Salt, sugar, cinnamon 15ml maize germ oil
slightly-sugared water with a little they become golden-brown. Salt, icing sugar
butter until al dente. Then shock in Peel onions and slice into thin rings.
iced water and caramelise gently in a Mix the flour and paprika powder, Chop the dried corn, chicken skin
pan with the butter and a little sugar. Ponzu gel cover the onion rings with the mixture and cornflakes finely. Mix the Malto
Lastly, cut the corn cobs in halves. and then deep fry at 160 ·c. Imme with the maize germ oil and then mix
250ml chanponzu diately salt the onion rings and add a with the chopped mixture. Season to
125ml water little sugar. Then roast the chopped taste with salt and icing sugar. Store
Corn 40g sugar almonds in the oven at 200 'C. Chop at 63 ·c in Hold-o-mat until ready to
3g agar-agar the deep-fried onion rings finely, mix use.
1 fresh corn cob 3g gel Ian gum with the almonds and season to taste
30 g butter 1.5g cassava salt, sugar and a pinch of cinnamon.
Salt, sugar Garnish
Mix the ingredients, bring to the boil
Vacuum-seal the corn cob with 15g and allow a gel to form. Then use Caramelised onions 8 affilla cress stems
butter, salt and a little sugar. Then the Thermomix to work the cooled 8 pommes soufflees
steam in the oven at 80 'C for 25 mixture into a smooth gel. 8 white pearl onions
minutes. Shock in iced water. Cut off 10g butter
the corn from the cob and trim into 8 10g sugar
2.5cm squares. Spread each square Onion puree 10ml old balsamic vinegar
with butter. Season with salt and Salt
TO SERVE
sugar and then heat in oven at 200 'C 300g white onions
for 3 minutes. Put the corn squares Salt, sugar Vacuum-seal the pearl onions in their
on the polenta cubes (see right). 30g creme fraiche peel and cook for 3 bursts of 30 Place the sliced flat iron steak in
1 pinch of xanthan gum seconds each until soft. Then cut the the middle of a warmed plate. Place
Cayenne pepper onions in half, remove the peel and the polenta with the corn as well
Polenta lightly caramelise them in a pan. Add as the short ribs, baby corn cobs,
Peel the onions and cut into 5mm balsamic vinegar and season with salt. black garlic and caramelised onions
100g each of shallots and mushrooms strips. Season with salt and sugar and in an attractive arrangement on the
4 tbsp vegetable oil let stand for 20 minutes. Simmer the plate. Lastly add the maize foam and
600ml chicken stock (see page 345) dehydrated onions in the resulting Black garlic paste the Malto. Dab the ponzu gel on the
300ml cream liquid in a pot until they become soft Polenta with Corn. Garnish with affilla
2 thyme sprigs and then cover them with perforated 80g black garlic cress and pommes soufflees and
2 rosemary sprigs baking paper. Then drain the onions 20 g black rice vinegar dress with the hot beef sauce.
Salt, pepper, nutmeg and mix them in the Thermomix with 20 g soy sauce
100g polenta meal creme fraiche and xanthan gum until Salt, sugar
50g flour the mixture is fine. Then pass through
2 tbsp vegetable oil for browning a fine sieve and reduce in a pot until Press the garlic through a fine sieve
firm. Then put them in the Thermomix and then mix with rice garlic and soy
Cut the shallots and mushrooms into again and mix them until they are fine. sauce in the Thermomix for 2 minutes
hazelnut-sized cubes. Saute in a pot Finally, season to taste with salt, cay at the highest setting until they are
in 2 tbsp of oil until they become enne pepper and sugar and pass once fine. Pass the mixture through a fine
colourless. Then add chicken stock more through a fine strainer. strainer and season to taste with salt
and cream. Add thyme and rosemary and sugar.
and reduce to 500 ml. Then strain and
season to taste with salt, pepper and
nutmeg. Bring the liquid to the boil,
stir in the polenta and soak for 30-35
230
I
231
I
l
MENU
V
DI SH VI I
CITRUS FRUITS
GREEK YOGHURT
CANDIED OLIVES
SPONGE
232
233
DISH VII
CITRUS FRUITS
GREEK YOGHURT I CANDIED OLIVES I SPONGE
Candied olives Mandarin and olive oil sponge Blood orange balls
TO SERVE
220 ml blood orange juice 250g mandarin puree 1 tbsp olive oil
20g sugar 3g agar-agar 10 tbsp Malto
20g icing sugar 3g gel Ian gum Place the mandarin and olive oil
40g egg whites 50g sugar Mix the olive oil with the Malto until a sponge in the middle of the plate,
Red food colouring (powder) fine powder is created. spread the yoghurt cream on top and
Bring all ingredients to the boil. Pour sprinkle with candied olives. Arrange
Whip all the ingredients together and onto a tray and then leave to cool the mandarin jelly, the olive oil Malto,
then dye them pink. Use an icing bag completely. Then mix in Thermomix Citrus fruit-segment balls the kumquats and the blood orange
with a plain nozzle to create small until smooth and strain. Refrigerate balls around the sponge.
macaroons on a mat and dry at 80 ·c until you are ready to serve. 2 blood oranges Place one segment ball on the olive
for 12 hours in the dehydrator. 1 grapefruit oil Malto. Place some dabs of olive
1 orange oil attractively on the plate. Arrange
Yoghurt sponge stones the candied olives and blood orange
Kumquats Peel and fillet the citrus fruit. Dip the pearls. Then put a scoop of the
300g egg white fillets in liquid nitrogen, take them out yoghurt and lime ice cream on the
250g kumquats 62 g almond semolina again and break them into segments. sponge and decorate with blood or-
175 ml water 60g Yopol Then let them thaw and put them into ange macaroons and honey cress.
175ml orange juice 60g sugar hemispherical moulds, freeze and
175g sugar 20g flour stick them together again as whole
½ vanilla pod balls. Keep the balls frozen until
1 bay leaf Mix all ingredients in Thermomix needed.
½ cinnamon stick until smooth. Put the mixture into an
2 cloves iSi-Siphon, load with 4 gas capsules
Zest of ½ untreated lemon and refrigerate for 4 hours. Then Garnish
spray the mixture into a plastic con-
Trim the ends of the kumquats. Cut tainer and cook in the microwave at Honey cress
them in half and remove the seeds. 1000 watts for 55 seconds. Break the
Then blanch the kumquats. Bring cooled mixture into pieces and then
the remaining ingredients to the boil dry at 80 •c in the dehydrator for 12
and pour over the kumquats. Then hours.
vacuum-seal.
Yoghurt cream
Mandarin jelly
250g Greek yoghurt
400 mandarin juice 20g icing sugar
Zest of 1 untreated mandarin orange 5 drops of yuzu aroma
4 sheets of gelatine, softened and 10ml olive oil
squeezed
Suspend the yoghurt for 5 hours in
Bring the mandarin juice with the zest a cloth and then flavour with the
to the boil and strain. Then dissolve remaining ingredients.
in the gelatine and put into prepared
mandarin silicon moulds and freeze.
234
I
235
MENU
V
DISH VI 11
BANANA SPLIT
[RELOADED]
BANANAS
CREAM
TAHI TI VANILLA
CHOCOLATE
Aerated chocolate
Almonds
Banana cookies
Banana cream
Banana gel
Banana sorbet
Bananas
Chocolate cream
Chocolate drops
Chocolate sponge
Muscovado crumble
236
237
BAU.STEINE DISH VIII
Boil up all the ingredients except the bananas. Heat the milk, coconut puree and vanilla pulp in Bring the milk and cream to the boil and thicken
Leave the resulting juice to cool. Peel the bananas the Thermomix to 40 ·c. Mix the sugar and Super with egg yolk and sugar at 85·c. Add in the cou
and before serving vacuum-seal with the juice for Neutrose together and heat with the milk to 85•c. verture and then stir until smooth. Spread out the
1 hour. Then thicken it with egg yolk. Put in the Pacojet mixture on a tin and then refrigerate for 24 hours.
container and freeze. Mix the cream with xanthan gum in the Thermo
Pacotize as required. mix. Then place it in icing bag and refrigerate until
needed.
238
I
239
DISH VI11
Muscovado crumble
100g butter
100g flour
50g muscovado sugar
25g cane sugar
240
I
241
SERVICE
242
243
»I want to make our customers happy« Yildiz Bau says,
»they should go home happy!«. Happy and content - not
lectured. You won't get any didactic lectures from her.
But you will get the same consistency and the same
perfectionism as from her husband. The Baus see their
restaurant as a total work of art. So they set the high
est standards in precision for service and demand the
utmost concentration. The guest should not notice any
of this.
Service in >Victor's Fine Dining< reminds one of a well
managed ballet company. In other places, staff short
ages may be concealed by entertainers and short-term
staff but there's a professionally choreographed pro
duction to marvel at in the Bau's kitchen. A production
which starts with what you don't see; empty places, for
example. Every afternoon the stage is set, with the exact
number of chairs set out for the amount of guests in the
evening. Everything is polished until it shines. The pro
duction begins with the entry of the first guests and the
first oshibori (hot towel) of the evening. And it doesn't
finish until the last visitor has glided happily from the
building. And nothing that happens in between is hap
hazard or improvised, not the time when the apertif is
served or the menu is presented, not the wording with
which the dishes are announced, nor the manner with
which the plates and bowls are laid before the guest, nor
the routes which the staff take through the restaurant.
Everything is taken into account; there no half-empty
water glasses or dropped napkins left on the floor. Even
if the air is burning in the kitchen, out here, nobody
hurries, no smile slips; there is all the time in the world.
It's like in the circus; the dangerous somersault has to
come across coolly and calmly.
244
I
245
>MEMORIES OF JAPAN<
SEAFOOD I PONZU I RED SHISO
BLUE LOBSTER
CARROTS I CALAMANSI I COMBAVA OIL I CORIANDER BISQUE
ZANDER
GREEN VEGETABLES I PEARL ONIONS I FOAMED DASH!
>JAPANESE MOMENT<
MATCHA TEA I LYCHEE I GREEN SHISO
>BAU.STEIN<
TONKA BEAN I PEAR I RED WINE
MENU
VI
DISH I
>MEMORIES OF
JAPAN<
SEAFOOD
PONZU
RED SHISO
Abalone
Amaebi shrimps
Cockles
Enoki mushrooms
Oyster cream
Oyster tapioca
Oysters
Passe-pierre seaweed
Ponzu foam
Razor clams
Tapioca chip
Yellowfin tuna
248
249
BAU.STEINE DISH I
250
I
251
DI SH I
>MEMORIES OF JAPAN<
SEAFOOD I PONZU I RED SHISO
Cockles
Saute the shallot until translucent, then add white Boil the tapioca pearls for 12 minutes in salty
wine and dashi and reduce. Open the oysters, water, drain and then mix with the dashi. Then
then bring to the boil once in oyster water. Then lay out the mixture on a Silpat mat. Occasionally
immediately mix it with the creme fraTche, chives, turning, dry in the dehydrator for 4 hours and
coriander and parsley in the Thermomix. Pass then bake in 180 °C fat. Keep warm and dry until
through a conical strainer. Add 1 g agar-agar and 1 g required. Break into pieces of the required size.
gellan gum per 100 ml mixture.
Bring the liquid to the boil again with the agar-agar
and gellan gum and then let it form a gel. When Garnish
cold, beat mixture into a smooth gel in the Ther-
momix. 100 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)
50 g chives, finely chopped
16 ready-to-serve amaebi shrimps
Oyster pearls 50 ml lemon vinaigrette (see page 348)
Sea salt
100 g oyster meat 16 cubes of yellow/in tuna (1 cm square)
100 ml oyster water 40 enoki mushrooms, 3cm long caps
125 g sour cream 40 passe-pierre seaweed tips
1 sheet of gelatine, softened and squeezed 8 tips of borage cress
Liquid nitrogen 8 tips of red shiso cress
252
I
253
DISH II
JAPANESE
YELLOWFIN
MACKEREL
[SASH I Ml]
YUZUKOSHO
BUTTERMILK DASHI
IMPERIAL CAVIAR
Buttermilk dashi
Caviar
Cucumber kimchi
Yellowfin mackerel
Yuzukosho
DI SH 11
Liquid marinade 1 Mix the soy sauce, dashi, bergamot juice and the
bonito flakes and bind with a little xanthan gum.
25 g ginger Strain the mixture through a sieve. Then mix in the
30 g lemon grass oils, stirring constantly.
2 g kaffir lime leaves For each portion, marinate, 2 slices of back and
2 g salt 1 slice of belly in liquid marinade number 2. Cover
350ml water in clingfilm and refrigerate until ready to serve.
1 tsp rice vinegar
Peel the ginger and cut it into small pieces. Beat Fermented ginger
the lemon grass and then it chop finely. Heat
the lemon grass, kaffir lime leaves, salt and water 50 g ginger
at 80 °C in a pot. Then cover with clingfilm and let 5 g salt
it stand for 1 hour. Then strain, pour in rice vinegar 75 ml rice vinegar
and refrigerate. 50 g sugar
Vacuum-seal the fish fillets in the liquid marinade
1 and marinate for 2 hours. Then remove from mari- Peel the ginger and slice it into wafer-thin slices.
nade and dab dry. Then salt it and place it in a sieve and strain for
Cut both the belly and the back into 7 mm slices. 1.5 hours. Bring the rice vinegar and sugar to the
A total of 24 evenly-cut slices are needed. boil and then pour over the pressed ginger. Cover
and store at room temperature for 48 hours.
Yuzukosho
Buttermilk dashi
TO SERVE
500g buttermilk
For the whey, freeze the buttermilk and let it thaw Place the yellowfin mackerel in the middle of the
out on a cloth strainer. plate. Set the yuzukosh6 on the middle of the fish.
Collect the clear strained butter milk whey. Flavour Arrange the cucumber kimchi and the caviar
the 200ml clear butter milk whey as follows: at intervals around the outside of the fish. Garnish
with chives.
Lastly, pour the buttermilk-dashi and oil mixture
Flavouring of buttermilk whey around the fish.
8g Kombu
6g edamame, dried
1g Shiitake mushrooms, dried
1.5g ginger, dried
1 g garlic, dried
0.2 g xanthan gum
20ml dill oil (see page 348)
10ml miso oil (see page 348)
Cucumber kimchi
2 baby cucumbers
2g salt
20ml reduced-salt soy sauce
20ml mirin
10ml rice vinegar
1 pinch of Kimchi seasoning
Garnish
24 x 1 g mounds of yuzukosh6
24 slices of cucumber kimchi
24 2g caviar piles (Osietra imperial caviar)
24 blades of chives
24 chive tips
256
I
257
DISH 111
BLUE
LOBSTER
CARROTS
CALAMANSI
COMBAVA OIL
CORIANDER BISQUE
Calamansi gel
Carrot puree
Carrots
Combava vinaigrette
Coriander
Lobster
Lobster bisque
Lobster jus
. 1. .:
,..-
,I,
..,t '.: .• �.
\ . ' ".'�J'..L
: . '.
�. .. �
4 x 500-550g Breton lobsters 2 untreated kaffir limes (Combava) 50ml olive oil
Poaching stock (see page 262) 100ml grape seed oil 150g butter
100g each shallots, carrots, celery
Steam the lobsters at 100 ·c for 3 minutes 20 Grate the kaffir limes with a microplane, ensuring 5 large white mushroom heads, finely chopped
seconds. Then break off the pincers and continue that no white is grated off. Vacuum-seal the zest 50 g fennel, finely-chopped
°
to cook for 8 minutes. Shock in icy water, break with the oil and place in bain-marie at 50 C for 2 5 cloves of garlic, crushed
open and clean. hours. Then immediately place it in icy water. After 1 tbsp peppercorns
Before serving, bring the poaching stock to 48 hours sieve the oil and store in a cool dark 1 kg carcass of Breton lobster
48-52 •c and the lobster tails to a 42·c core tem place. 8g Roma tomatoes, finely chopped
perature. When the core temperature has been 250ml white port
reached, halve and carve the lobsters lengthwise. 80 ml Noilly Prat
80 ml white wine
100ml cognac
500ml shellfish nage (see page 346)
300ml reduced shellfish jus (see page 346)
200g cream
200g creme double
Salt, cayenne pepper
100g cold butter
1 tbsp finely chopped coriander
260
I
261
DISH Ill
BLUE LOBSTER
CARROTS I CALAMANSI I COMBAVA OIL I CORIANDER BISQUE
TO SERVE
1 head of pointed cabbage 4 large carrots 2 lemon grass stalks (only the hearts)
50 g butter 100 ml Melfor vinegar 10 g of garlic slices, deep-fried and
Salt, pepper, sugar 100ml water dried Place the carved lobster on a warmed
15g finely-grated ginger 100 g sugar 1 chili pod plate in a semi-circle. Arrange the
8 lobster pincers (see page 261) 200 g chopped, roasted hazelnuts sushi, the pickled, warmed carrots,
30 g nut butter Peel the carrots and cut them using 1 tbsp icing sugar the carrot-ginger puree and the
Nutmeg the slicing machine lengthways to 2 tbsp clarified butter calamansi gel attractively around the
Fleur de Sel 2 mm thick strips. With the help of 2 pinches of mild Madras curry plate. Then pour the hot lobster jus,
(2.5 cm and 1.5 cm) rings, cut 16 large powder the foamed lobster bisque and the
Remove the outer leaves of the and 16 small wafers out of the carrot 1 tsp of chopped coriander combava vinaigrette and garnish with
pointed cabbage, tear off 4 leaves, strips. Trim a further 16 8 cm long Zest of 1 untreated kaffir lime greens, cress and blooms. Finally,
remove the stalk and cut it in half, and 1.5 cm wide carrot strips. Bring Salt sprinkle the lobster with rice flakes
lengthways. Then blanch the leaves in the remaining ingredients to the boil and sesame.
boiling, salted water for 20 seconds and pour over the prepared carrot Finely chop the lemon grass hearts
and shock them in icy water. Then wafers and strips. Then refrigerate for and the deep-fried garlic and dice the
lay them out in a slightly overlapping 12 hours. Take out the pickled carrot chili into fine morsels. Lightly roast
rectangle and roll them flat under a strips and form them into small rolls the chopped hazelnuts in a pan and
kitchen towel, using a rolling pin. Cut before serving. caramelise them with icing sugar. Add
the remainder of the cabbage into the clarified butter and mix well. Then
four pieces. Remove the stalks and add Madras curry, coriander, lemon
cut them into 2 mm strips. Saute the Carrot and ginger puree grass, garlic and chili and season
cabbage strips in butter until they are harmoniously to taste with kaffir lime
colourless and then season them with 100 g shallots zest, salt and a little more icing sugar.
salt, pepper and sugar. Then season 200 g butter
the cabbage strips to taste with gin 750 g carrots
ger and soak up the excess liquid with 50g ginger Garnish
a cloth. Trim the prepared lobster 350 ml yuzu juice, freshly pressed
pincers front and back and then cut Salt, sugar 16 carrot green tips
them in half lengthwise. Form the 16 tips ghoa cress
pointed cabbage strips into two 3 mm Finely chop the shallots and saute 8 violet blossoms
rectangles (10 x 8 cm) on a piece of in butter until translucent. Dice the 8 bean blossoms
clingfilm. Place the lobster pincers in carrots and then add them. Slice 20 g baked green rice flakes
a row on the cabbage and then roll the ginger and then add it. Then add 1 tsp roasted sesame seed with Ume
up in the foil and chill for 1 hour. Then the carrot juice and cook the carrots plums
place the prepared pointed cabbage until they are soft.
leaves on a piece of clingfilm, coat Then mix in Thermomix until fine. Sea
with nut butter and season with salt, son to taste with salt and sugar and
pepper and nutmeg. Then roll in the pass the mix ture through a fine sieve.
pointed cabbage rolls and refrigerate
for 30 minutes.
Cut the rolls into 2.5cm thick pieces
and steam them at low heat for 5
minutes in a bamboo basket. Spread
with nut butter and season lightly
with Fleur de Sel to serve.
262
I
263
MENU
VI
DISH IV
ZANDER
GREEN VEGETABLES
SMALL ONIONS
FOAMED DASHI
Chive oil
Dashi, foamed
Edamame
Onion crumble
Onion puree
Onion skins
Pak choi
Pea foam
Shallot melt
Shallot rings
Zander
264
265
DI SH IV
ZANDER
GREEN VEGETABLES I PEARL ONIONS I FOAMED DASHI
Shallot melt Pea puree Avocado and chive cream Pak choi
150g shallots 50g pork belly 2 ripe avocados 8 mini pak choi
1 sprig of thyme 50g shallots 50 g chives 2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 sprig of rosemary 30ml white wine 10g coriander Pak choi stock (see left)
50ml vegetable oil 100ml cream 30g Greek yoghurt Salt, sugar
Salt, sugar 1 bay leaf Juice and zest of 1 untreated lime
20g butter 1 sprig of thyme Salt, pepper Clean the pak choi, remove the out
20g chives 300g peas side leaves and then saute gently in
Pepper 1 pinch of xanthan gum Peel the avocados, remove the oil. Add the pak choi stock and season
Salt, pepper, sugar stones, and mix the flesh together to taste with salt and pepper.
Peel the shallots, chop them into a with chives, coriander and yoghurt
fine brunoise, and with the thyme and Cut the pork belly and shallots into in Thermomix until fine.
rosemary cook them in oil until they 1 cm cubes, saute in pot, pour in Season to taste with the lime juice Garnish
are translucent. Season to taste with white wine and add cream. Add the and zest, salt and pepper and then
salt and sugar. Drain the soft-cooked herbs and then reduce by half. Blanch pass through a fine sieve. Keep in a 8 affilla cress blooms
shallots and then mix with the butter the peas briefly in boiling, salted cool place until needed. 8 violet blossoms
and the chives to make a loose mix water and then immediately shock in
ture. Then season again to taste with icy water. Then put the peas and the
salt, pepper and sugar. cream reduction into the Thermomix Chive oil
and mix until fine. Bind lightly with
xanthan gum and season to taste with 240g chives
TO SERVE
Edamame sugar, salt and pepper. 120g parsley
10g salt
100g shelled edamame 400 ml sunflower oil Place the shallot rings on a warmed
20ml chicken stock (see page 345) Pea foam plate and fill with avocado chive
10 g butter Mix all ingredients in the Thermomix cream. Then arrange the onion puree,
10g chopped parsley 200g pea puree (see above ) at top setting and at 80·c. onion skins, edamame and pak choi
Salt, pepper, sugar 2 eggs When this temperature is reached, on the plate.
5 g mustard continue to mix for 2 minutes. Then Put the fish in the middle, decorate
Glaze the edamame in a pan with 5ml lemon juice pass through cloth strainer and with a thin strip of shallot confit and
the stock and the butter. Then add 120ml grape seed oil store for 1 hour in the blast freezer. sprinkle with onion crumble. Lastly
parsley and season to taste with salt, 60ml miso oil (see page 348) Then separate the oil from the fro dress with pea foam and the foamed
pepper and sugar. Salt, sugar zen opaque mixture with a rubber dashi butter. Garnish with cress
scraper. blossoms, violets, courgette tempura
Mix the pea puree with eggs, mustard, and chive oil.
Dashi butter and lemon juice in the Thermomix
until fine. Then pour in both oils into Pak choi stock
250ml white wine the mix in a thick, steady stream.
750ml dashi (see page 347) Season to taste with salt and sugar. 500ml vegetable stock (see page 344)
100g salted raw milk butter Finally put the mixture into an iSi 15ml mirin
100g sweet cream butter Siphon and load with 2 gas capsules. 10 ml sake
Salt, cayenne pepper Keep at 57° C in a bain-marie until 3ml lemon juice
50g chives, chopped small needed. 5ml juice from candied ginger
Reduce the white wine by a third and Mix all ingredients together.
then pour in dashi. Reduce to 200 ml.
Then put in the butter and season to
taste with salt, cayenne pepper and
dashi. Foam up shortly before serving
and add chives.
266
I
267
MENU
VI
DI SH V
THE BEST
OF
VEAL
DIM SUM
HAZELNUT
ALBA WHITE TRUFFLE
Calf's head
Dim sum
Hazelnut cream
Hazelnuts
Mushroom cream
Spinach cream
Truffle foam
Vealjus
Veal sweetbreads
268
269
DISH V
½ calf's head (eyes, skin, and nose Poached heart sweetbreads Dim sum
removed) with tongue
2 x 220g heart sweetbreads 100g boiled calf's head
Soak the calf's head for 3 to 4 hours 50g celery 50 g boiled calf's tongue
in cold water. 50g celeriac 50g poached veal sweetbreads (see
50g white part of leek left)
50g shallots Vegetable oil
Pickle 1 L water 20 g blanched vegetable brunoise
10 peppercorns (courgette, carrot and celery)
150 g pickling salt 10 juniper berries 100g chicken stuffing (see page 345)
60g salt 1 bay leaf 10g white truffle, finely chopped
30 juniper berries Salt 10g chopped parsley
30 peppercorns Salt, pepper
6 thyme sprigs Soak the sweetbreads for at least 36 sheets of dim sum dough
6 bay leaves 6 hours in cold water. Cut the vege 1 egg yolk
6 cloves tables in hazelnut-sized pieces, then
6 cloves of garlic bring to the boil with water, seasoning Cut the calf's head and tongue into
3 L water and a pinch of salt. Add the sweet fine cubes. Then also cut the sweet
breads, take off the heat immediately breads into fine cubes and fry in very
Mix all the ingredients together and and leave on the edge of the stove hot oil in a Teflon-coated pan. Mix
pickle the calf's head and tongue for to stand for 20 minutes. Then remove in the calf's head, tongue and sweet
12 hours. from the stove and leave to cool. breads with the vegetable brunoise
Separate the sweetbreads from the and chicken stuffing. Then add truffle
remaining sinews and blood clots. and parsley and season to taste with
Preparation of calf's head salt and pepper.
Spread out the dim sum dough, brush
300g carrots Glazed sweetbreads the edge with egg yolk and fill in 12g
300g celery portions. Lastly, form the dim sum
200g white part of leek 200g poached veal sweetbreads (see with a dim sum press.
2 white onions above)
4 bay leaves Vegetable oil
8 cloves 10g butter Hazelnut cream
50g truffle jus (see page 347)
Chop the carrots, celery and leek Salt, pepper 150 g shelled, whole hazelnuts
into large pieces and cover the onions 100ml milk
with bay leaves and cloves. Remove Cut the poached sweetbreads into Salt, sugar
calf's head from the pickle and place 24 hazelnut-sized pieces and brown
together with vegetables in a large in a pan with oil. Then foam the butter Gently toast the hazelnuts in a pot,
pot. Cover with cold water and weigh and glaze with truffle jus. Season to then bring to the boil with milk once,
down with a sieve so that the calf's taste with salt and pepper. cover with aluminium foil well and
head is constantly under water. Then bake in oven at 200·c for 1 hour.
bring to the boil and then gently sim Then put in a Pacojet container and
mer. Ladle off the foam from time freeze for at least 6 hours. Pacotize
to time. After about 4 hours remove the frozen mixture nine times and
the tongue and cheeks from the then pass through a fine sieve. Season
water. After a further 30 minutes re to taste with salt and sugar.
move the rest of the head and leave
to cool. Prepare while still warm and
remove fat.
MENU
VI
270
I
271
MENU
VI
DI SH V I
Baby broccoli
Beech mushrooms
Mushroom cream
Offal sandwich
272
273
BAU.STEINE DISH VI
4 x 600 g saddles of hare 300 g heart of palm (core removed) 6g large shallots, finely chopped
Salt, pepper Vegetable oil 4 crushed cloves of garlic
Vegetable oil Salt, pepper 4 tbsp olive oil
2 rosemary sprigs 40 g purple curry
3 juniper berries Remove the fibrous thick core from the heart of 100 ml red wine vinegar (Forum)
100g butter palm, cut out 6 mm slices and then cut out 8 rings 250 ml red wine
with diameters of respectively 4, 2 and 1 cm. Fry 125 ml red port
Debone the saddle of hare and separate the silver the rings with a little oil until golden-brown. Season 200 ml red reduction (see page 276)
skin. Break into 8 same sized pieces. Important: with salt and pepper. 125 ml highly reduced chicken stock (see page 345)
Ensure that there are no blood clots or anything 200 ml veal jus (see page 344)
unwanted in the fillets. 1 tsp xanthan gum
Season the fillets with salt and pepper and brown 2 tbsp beetroot granules
equally on all sides. Then precook on a rack at Salt, pepper, sugar
200 •c for 3 minutes in the oven. Let the fillets rest 35 g cold butter
in the Hold-o-mat at 64 •c for 30 minutes.
When served, the fillets should be fried off rapidly Brown the shallots and garlic with olive oil, dust
with butter flavoured with rosemary and juniper with a little curry powder and toast. Add red wine
berries. The fillets should have a core temperature vinegar and fill up with red wine, port, and red
of 54 ·c. reduction. Reduce the liquid by a half. Add the
chicken stock and veal jus and then reduce by a
third. Then pass through a conical sieve, bind
lightly with xanthan gum and colour with beetroot
granules. Then pass through a micro sieve. Season
to taste with salt, pepper and sugar. Shortly before
serving add cold butter.
274
I
275
DISH VI
2 large shallots
>Red reduction< 1 clove of garlic
1 sprig of rosemary
500 ml red wine (Cote du Rhone) Salt
185 ml red port 30 ml grape seed oil
175 ml red grape juice
Chop the shallots and cloves of garlic to make a
Reduce all ingredients to 200 ml. brunoise. Then slowly stew with rosemary and a
little salt in oil in a copper sauteuse without losing
colour until cooked.
Pu rp l e c u r r a uc e
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ y_s _ _ _ __ PAGE 2 7 5
Offal sandwich
1 kg heart of palm 200 g firm (not fibrous) heart of palm 32 small white beech mushrooms
500 ml coconut milk 50 g radishes 32 small brown beech mushrooms
500ml water 150 g broccoli florets 20 g parsley
Salt, sugar 10 g chives, finely sliced ½ clove of garlic
1 pinch of xanthan gum Zest of½ untreated lime 2 tbsp vegetable oil
Cayenne pepper 60 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348) Salt, pepper
Salt, pepper, sugar Butter
Remove the fibrous core from the heart of palm.
Remove brown or oxidised parts. Then chop finely. Chop the hearts of palm and the radishes into a Clean the white and brown beech mushrooms
Mix coconut milk and water and boil the heart of fine 2 x 2 mm brunoise. Using a peeler cut off the Chop the parsley and garlic finely Fry off the
palm. Then salt and sugar lightly. Lay a piece of fine broccoli buds off with a peeler to make a mushrooms in oil and season with salt and pepper.
baking paper on the surface and then simmer over broccoli couscous. Mix the broccoli couscous with Lastly, add a little butter, garlic and parsley.
a medium heat for 1 hour until soft. Strain the soft heart of palm, radishes, chives, lime zest and
heart of palm and mix with xanthan gum in the shiso vinaigrette. Season to taste with salt, pepper
Thermomix. Then pass through a fine conical sieve and sugar. Garnish
and reduce in a pot. The puree should be firm not
runny. Lastly, mix again, season to taste with salt, 150 g mushroom cream (see page 344)
sugar and cayenne pepper and then pass through Asian broccoli 8 tips of fine frisee
a fine strainer. 8 chervil tips
300 g wild broccoli (baby broccoli) 8 fine leaves of red shiso cress
Salt, pepper, sugar
Heart of palm chips 50 ml chicken stock (see page 345)
15 ml dark toasted sesame oil
100 g heart of palm (core removed) 2 tbsp nut butter
500 ml palm fat for deep-frying
TO SERVE
Salt Trim the broccoli to a length of 6.5 cm. Peel the
ends which have been removed and lay to one side.
Heat the oil to 150 ·c. Shred the hearts of palm Separate the leaves and the little sprigs from the Place the heart of palm puree and the mushroom
(without the fibrous cores) directly into the hot oil tips and then turn the stalks. Season the broccoli cream on a warmed plate. Use a cutter to cut
and fry off until golden brown. The heart of palm tips with salt, pepper and sugar, fry in hot oil and out a 3 cm diameter 2 cm high portion of heart of
chips should not be thicker than 1 mm. Then salt then add chicken stock. Cover and then continue to palm salad on the wafers. Then put a dab of heart
and dry at 65 ° for 4 hours in the dehydrator. cook until the broccoli is al dente and the stock has of palm puree on top and set out the broccoli
been boiled away. Then glaze with sesame oil and stems and heart of palm chips. Then place the pre
serve. pared wafers on the plate. Now arrange the beech
Heart of palm wafers Sear the peeled stalks with a culinary torch and mushrooms and the small heart of palm wafers
PAGE 275
then chop into 2 cm pieces. Heat the seared stalks on the plate.
with nut butter in a pan, season with salt, pepper Also set out the offal sandwich and the broccoli
and sugar, and serve. in an attractive display. Lastly, carve the saddle of
hare and place in the centre of the plate. Pour
the hot purple curry sauce around the hare. Garnish
with frisee, chervil and cress.
276
I
277
MENU
VI
DISH VII
>JAPANESE
MOMENT<
MATCHA TEA
LYCHEE
GREEN SHISO LEAVES
Cookie dough
Jasmin blossoms
Lychee foam
Mangosteens
Matcha tea
Milk rice
278
279
DISH VII
>JAPANESE MOMENT<
MATCHA TEA I LYCHEE I GREEN SHISO
Green tea ganache Bring the lychee puree to a boil with the sugar and
dissolve in the gelatine . Mix the yoghurt with the
75g green tea ganache base (see above) rose water and add in the lychee mixture. Put
112 ml cream the mixture into an iSi-Siphon and load with 1 gas
11 g Matcha tea capsule. Refrigerate and warm up in a hot bain
1. 9 gelatine, softened and squeezed marie before serving.
125g white couverture chocolate
TO SERVE
175ml water
150 ml coconut milk
90 g sugar Powder a plate with a circle of Matcha tea. Place
3 g Super Neutrose the cookie ring to one side and fill with the green
22 ml Yuzu juice tea ganache. Place the milk rice in the middle
40 ml plum wine of the filled ring. Cut out 3 small balls of dragon
16 g chopped green shiso leaves fruit with the parisienne scoop and lay out on the
inside of the ring. On the right-hand side of the
Heat up the water and coconut milk to 45•c. Mix ring at 1, 2 and 3 o'clock set a mangosteen fillet.
the sugar and Super Neutrose together and then Then cover with the lychee foam and alternate jas
with the coconut and water mixture heat to 80 •c. mine and cornflower blossoms around the edges
Then pour the yuzu juice and plum wine onto of the foam. Place a leaf of green shiso cress in the
the chopped shiso leaves and freeze in a Pacojet centre. Then place a scoop of green shiso sorbet
container for at least 6 hours. When needed, at approximately 4 o'clock and lay a whole jasmine
pacotize the ice cream until there are no more flower next to it.
pieces visible.
Garnish
10 g matcha tea
1 dragon fruit
24 mangosteen fillets
1 pack cornflowers
1 pack jasmine blooms
1 pack green shiso cress
280
I
281
MENU
VI
DISH VIII
>BAU.STEIN<
TONKA BEAN
PEAR
RED WINE
Crunchy base
Ginger macaroons
Pear gel
Pears
282
283
BAU.STEINE DISH VIII
165g tonka bean base (see below) 75g hazelnut praline 450ml white wine
112 g white couverture chocolate 30g milk couverture chocolate 100g sugar
75g egg yolk 15g roasted almonds, chopped and roasted The pulp of 1 vanilla pod
24 g Eclat d'Or (crepe wafers) 1 cinnamon stick
Heat the base and the couverture in the Thermo 2 ripe Abate Fetel pears
mix to 85 ·c. Then add the egg yolk to thicken. Melt the hazelnut praline and milk chocolate
Pour the mixture into a terrine form and poach in a couverture together. Add the remaining ingredients Bring the white wine with the sugar, vanilla pulp
bain-marie poach at 130 •c for 2 hours in the oven. and mix them. Spread the mixture on baking paper and cinnamon stick to the boil. Peel the pears and
Then let the mixture cool for 2 hours. In Thermomix and then leave to cool. Then cut out squares the cut out 22mm diameter balls and cover with the
mix to 50 •c and pour into square silicon moulds same size as the silicon moulds with the tonka bean hot stock.
ensuring there are no air bubbles. cream and place on the moulds ensuring that there
is no air between the cream and the base. Press
gently and freeze.
Tonka bean base
1 tonka bean
275ml milk
156g butter
284
I
285
DISH VIII
>BAU.STEIN<
TONKA BEAN I PEAR I RED WINE
P o ea
_ _ a_ _c_h_e _d---'p
'--- _ _r__ PAGE 285
25 g icing sugar
Juice of 1 lime
1 Abate Fetel pear
TO SERVE
250 g pear puree 125 g sugar
2.5 g agar-agar 750 ml red wine
2.5 g gel Ian gum 250 ml red port Place the frozen tonka bean cream with the
Juice of ½ lime 7 g cassis puree crunchy base in the middle of the plate and leave
1 clove to thaw for about 5 minutes. Place differently-sized
Bring all the ingredients to the boil and then leave ½ cinnamon stick dabs of pear gel on the plate. Position the balls and
to cool completely. Then blend in Thermomix until Zest of½ untreated lemon slices of the fresh pear together with one ma
smooth and strain. Zest of½ untreated orange rinaded pear on the gel dabs. Shine the pear balls
½ vanilla pod with the white wine stock and place on the gel
120 g egg yolk dabs. Decorate with atsina cress. Place a scoop of
Ginger macaroons 100 g sugar red wine ice cream and decorate with edible pear
100 g butter paper and ginger macaroons.
3 g peeled ginger
150 g apple juice Boil the sugar up to a caramel. Add in the red wine,
15 ml white balsamic vinegar red port, cassis puree, clove, cinnamon, lemon
27 g egg white and orange zest and vanilla pod and then reduce by
30 g sugar half. Then strain, add egg yolk and sugar, and heat
in Thermomix to 85 •c. Gradually add the butter.
Grate the ginger with a microplane grater. Then mix Freeze in Pacojet container for at least 24 hours.
all the ingredients and beat. Use an icing bag with Pacotize as required.
a plain nozzle to squeeze out small macaroons onto
a tin tray and dry for 10 hours in the dehydrator.
White wine stock to give a shine
Garnish
Atsina cress
286
I
287
FRIENDS
288
289
the mainstream regionality doctrine nor the often cited
pop-culture motto >less-is-more<, Markus Molitor got
rid of some of the sedateness of the local Mosel culture
and painstakingly won over his tradition-loving oppo
nents. Today, both of them produce international top
quality and both have their most faithful friends way
beyond their immediate environment. And this too:
both of them are classical high-achievers. They are am
bitious, talented and goal-orientated.
»When I was in my second year of training, I was much
more interested in lobster thermidor than in tradition
al Swabian pork fillet dishes.« Christian Bau says. For
him, international fame was certainly not in the cards
from childhood - he left home at the age of 16. When he
was 22, he started to work as a Commis Entremetier in
the Schwarzwaldstube. It took just nine months before
he was made sous-chef (more co-chef than sous-chef)
for Harald Wohlfahrt. Markus Molitor was 20 when
he took over his father's winery in 1984. He practical
ly started from nothing - without any acreage, tilling
away on leased land. Today he owns around 80 hectares
of vineyards in all the greatest Mosel locations between
Brauneberg und Traben-Trarbach: Wehlener Sonnenuhr,
Urziger Wiirzgarten, Bernkasteler Badstube, Graacher
Himmelreich ...
RED GAMBERONI
YAMS I THAI CURRY I PAK CHOI I BERGAMOT
BLACK COD
OYSTERS I CAULIFLOWER I KOMBU
CREAMY KOSHIHIKARI
ABALONE I TRUFFLE I FOIE GRAS
>JAPANESE SNOWBALL<
RED SHISO I CALPICO I YUZU SAKE
>SNICKERS 2018<
PEANUT I CHOCOLATE I CARAMEL I MALOON SALT
MENU
VII
DISH I
SCALLOPS
SASHIMI
MI KAN
SEA URCHIN ICE CREAM
Apple brunoise
Char caviar
Chives
Mandarin gel
Mandarin vinaigrette
Octopus chip
Scallops
296
297
DI SH I
SCALLOPS
SASHIMI I MIKAN I SEA URCHIN ICE CREAM
Squid chips
TO SERVE
15 g flour
15g cornflour
15 ml squid ink Sprinkle the scallop rosette with the apple brunoise
20 g liquid butter and chives and then drizzle with the mandarin
150 ml veal jus (see page 344) vinaigrette. Then place alternating drops of
150 ml water mandarin gel and yoghurt cream around the rosette
100 ml olive oil and garnish with char caviar and atsina cress.
250 ml vegetable oil for frying To finish, place a generous scoop of sea urchin ice
cream on the rosette and place a squid chip on
Mix all the ingredients in a mixing bowl. Spread top. Garnish with affilla cress.
a generous amount of oil on a griddle (or a good
Teflon-coated pan) preheated to 200 •c and with
a tablespoon pour the chip mixture in separate
servings on to the griddle. Heat until each serving
has become a thin crisp. Remove from the griddle
and dry off on kitchen paper. Store in a hot
cupboard on kitchen paper until needed. Break
into the desired form and size to serve.
Garnish
298
I
299
DISH II
SALMON
FROM
THE ADOUR
AVOCADO
CITRUS
JALAPENO STOCK
Avocado
Avocado cream
Avocado fans
Citrus gel
Daikon cress
Garden cress
Jalapeiio stock
Kimizu
Oyster cream
Pickled vegetables
Ponzu vinaigrette
Salmon
1 x 3.0-3.5kg Salmon from the Adour 120g egg yolk 15g calamansi puree
50 ml mirin 60g bergamot puree
Wash, fillet and bone the salmon in 50ml rice vinegar 45ml fresh yuzu juice
preparation for cooking. Slice the skin Salt 180ml water
from the salmon, remove any blubber 30g sugar
and cut the fillet lengthwise to sep Mix all the ingredients into a fine 4.2g agar-agar
°
arate the belly from the back. Store cream in the Thermomix at 85 C. 4.2g gel Ian gum
the belly in the fridge for further use. Season to taste with salt and strain 1.8 g cassava
Cast the salmon into the form re- through a fine strainer.
quired and dry marinade (see below ) . Bring all ingredients to the boil and
allow a gel to form. Then use the
Oyster cream Thermomix to beat the mixture into a
For the marinade smooth gel.
1 shallot cut into brunoise
200g salt 2 tbsp vegetable oil
100g brown sugar for sprinkling 30 ml white wine Avocado cream
75ml dashi (see page 347)
Mix the two ingredients together and 3 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) 3 ripe, peeled avocados with stones
marinade the salmon-back for 25 90g creme fraiche removed
minutes. Wash the marinade off brief 10g chives 70g yoghurt
ly and dry off the salmon with kitchen 10g coriander 10g chervil
paper. Cold smoke the salmon for 1 stalk of parsley 5g tarragon
2 minutes. Then vacuum seal it to a Agar-agar 10 g coriander
level of 40% and slow-cook it for 10 Gellan gum 10g basil
minutes at 40 ·c in a bain-marie. Then Juice of 1 lemon
put the cooked salmon in a vacu- Saute the shallot until transparent, Salt, pepper, sugar
um pouch in ice-cold water for 30 then add white wine and dashi and
minutes. Remove from vacuum pouch reduce. Add the oysters and the In the Thermomix beat all the ingre
and brown (see below). oyster water and bring to the boil. dients into a cream, season to taste
Then immediately mix together with with the spices and strain.
the creme fraiche, chives, coriander
Sauce for searing and parsley in the Thermomix.
Pass through a splatter sieve. Add Broth
100ml low-salt soy sauce 1g agar-agar and 1g gel Ian gum per
50ml mirin 100ml mixture. Bring the liquid to 200g white part of leek
the boil again with the agar-agar and 200g celery stalk
Mix both ingredients and pour over gellan gum and then let it form a 3 shallots
the cooked salmon until completely gel. When cold, beat mixture into a 1 clove of garlic
moist. Then sear with a culinary torch smooth gel in the Thermomix. 2 tbsp vegetable oil
in order to lightly caramelise the 200ml white wine
mixture. Refrigerate the salmon and 50ml Neilly Prat
before serving portion out into 24 200ml chicken stock (see page 345)
slices, each 7mm thick. 1 pinch of xanthan gum
200ml broth (see left), strained and 15 small round radishes, cleaned and 2 fully ripe avocados 1 pack daikon cress
cooled quartered. 50 ml lemon vinaigrette (see page 1 pack garden cress
2 tbsp green tabasco 3 shallots cut into 2mm thick rings 348) 8 cornflower blossoms
1 tbsp yuzu juice 16 wafers of yellow radish (2 cm diam Sea salt, freshly-ground black pepper 8 yellow marigolds
Salt, pepper, sugar eter, 3mm thick) 8 red marigolds
10 g finely chopped coriander stalk 8 loops of yellow radish (2 mm thick, Cut the avocados in half and remove 8 borage blossoms
20g chopped almonds 10 x 1.5 cm) the stone. Then peel and quarter.
20g green flying fish caviar 8 loops of white radish ( 2 mm thick, Cut the avocado flesh into 1mm slices
20 ml coriander oil (see page 348) · 10 x 1.5 cm) on the slicer lengthwise and lay them
20ml chive oil out in fans on a tray coated with
lemon vinaigrette. Brush the fans with
TO SERVE
Season the broth with tabasco, yuzu Vegetable stock for pickling lemon vinaigrette and season with sea
juice, salt, pepper and sugar. Then salt and pepper. Before serving cut
add in the coriander, almonds and 150ml water them into small 3cm diameter discs . Set out the salmon in the middle of
caviar and mix in the oils until finely 75 ml rice vinegar the dish. To the left of the salmon,
beaded. 25ml mirin place a row of pickled vegetables and
8 g salt Salty yuzu ice pearls adorn with dots of avocado cream,
8 g sugar oyster cream, citrus gel and kimizu.
Ponzu vinaigrette 2 juniper berries 24g glucose powder Garnish the row with cress and
5 white peppercorns 90g sugar blossoms and marinade with ponzu
125 ml chanponzu 1 bay leaf 4.6g Super Neutrose vinaigrette. Then lay out the avocado
25ml bonito vinegar 310ml water fans and decorate with borage
0.7g xanthan gum Bring all ingredients to the boil and 8 4ml yuzu juice blooms. Pour the jalapeiio stock over
240 ml sunflower oil pour the boiling mixture over the pre 58 ml lime juice the salmon and complete the row
pared vegetables (except the yellow of vegetables with daikon oil and the
Bind the chanponzu and bonito vine radish loops!). Let the vegetables Mix the glucose powder, sugar and frozen yuzu ice pearls.
gar with xanthan gum and soak for stand for 48 hours and then store in a Super Neutrose. Bring the water to
20 minutes. Then add in the oil to cool place. 45•c and trickle in the sugar mixture,
make a finely-beaded mixture. then heat to 86 ·c.
Stir in the citrus juices and soak
Radish balls everything in a 3•c fridge for at least
Daikon radish oil 12 hours. Using a spray bottle, trickle
100ml hot vegetable pickle-stock the yuzu mixture into liquid nitrogen
120g daikon cress (see above) in order to make the pearls. Then
60g parsley 5g red beetroot powder with a skimmer carefully remove the
200 ml vegetable oil 16 slices of white radish (5 cm diame pearls, place them on a plate and
3g salt ter, 1mm thick) freeze until needed.
Cut the cress from the pack. Chop Colour the pickle-stock with the red
up the parsley and mix with cress, oil beetroot powder and pour the hot
and salt at 80 •c in the Thermomix. mixture over the radish slices. Make
Drain in a fine sieve and freeze. incisions and form into balls.
302
I
303
MENU
VII
DI SH 111
RED GAMBERONI
YAMS
THAI CURRY
PAK CHOI
BERGAMOT
Bergamot gel
Bergamot sauce
Coriander oil
Crustacean chip
Edamame
Gamberoni
Gamberoni tartare
Pak choi
Pineapple salad
Yam puree
Yams
304
305
BAU.STEINE DISH Ill
306
I
307
DISH 111
RED GAMBERONI
YAMS I THAI CURRY I PAK CHOI I BERGAMOT
Be rgamot auc e
_ _ --' =- _ _ _ _s_ _ _ _ __ PAGE 3 0 7
308
I
309
MENU
VII
DISH IV
BLACK COD
OYSTERS
CAULIFLOWER
KOMBU
Black cod
Cauliflower
Cauliflower puree
Chive oil
Kombu
Kombu cream
Oyster leaves
Oysters
Umami broth
310
311
I
I
BAU.STEINE DISH IV
1 x 3-3.2kg black cod 300 g cauliflower 400 ml dashi (see page 347)
Salt, pepper 50 g candied kombu, finely chopped (see page 315) 4 ml Jakobs dashi (finished product)
1 L sunflower oil 20 g finely chopped yuzu peel (ready-prepared) 1.5 g bonito flakes
40 g miso paste (see page 349) 50 ml kombu broth 1 g kaffir lime leaves
Salt, sugar 2 g peeled ginger
Filet the black cod and prepare for cooking, 2.2g kombu
then divide into belly and back, and portion the Peel the cauliflower finely with a potato peeler and 0.5g Yuzu zest (or lemon zest)
back into 70-75 g pieces. Use the belly to make then chop very finely. Then combine with kom 3.5 ml white soy sauce
stuffing or something similar. Season with salt bu, yuzu peel and broth and season with salt and 1 large Gillardeau oyster with oyster water
and pepper and saute in a coated pan, then cook pepper. Marinade for 1 hour and then pass the 50 ml cream
until done oil at 54 ·c until it reaches a core tem broth through a fine sieve. Then scoop out (2cm 2g lecithin
perature of 42·c. Remove the fillets and coat diameter) hemispheres with a Parisienne scoop. Salt, cayenne pepper
with the paste, then sear for a short time with a
culinary torch at a very high heat. Heat the dashi to 70 ·c, then add all the ingre
dients except the cream, lecithin and seasoning.
Let stand for 1 hour and then pass through a cloth
sieve. Add the cream and season with to taste
salt and cayenne pepper. Add the lecithin and beat
to a mousse with a hand-held blender.
Important: The broth should not be brought to a
boil as this leads to a loss in flavour.
DISH IV
BLACK COD
OYSTERS I CAULIFLOWER I KOMBU
300g cauliflower
Umami broth Pickle-stock (see left)
----- -
PAGE 313
Fried cauliflower
200g cauliflower
2 tbsp vegetable oil
10g butter
Salt, sugar
8 bean blossoms
Candied kombu 8 heads of affilla cress
8 oyster leaves
1 leaf of wild kombu 30 ml chive oil (see page 348)
25ml sake
20ml mirin
75 ml dashi (see page 347)
50 ml soy sauce
35 g glucose powder
TO SERVE
5 g cane sugar
Soak the kombu for 2 hours in cold water, then cut Place the black cod in the middle of a warmed
into 2.5 x 2.5 squares. Put into a tall container. plate. Arrange the cauliflower puree, the couscous
Bring the remaining ingredients to the boil and pour and the fried florets attractively on the plate. Place
over the kombu squares. Cover the container with an oyster medallion on the fish, and complete with
aluminium foil and candy the kombu in the oven for kombu, kombu cream and the pickled cauliflower.
10 hours at 12o·c. Then let the squares cool and Then garnish with the blooms and the cress and
cut them into 1 mm strips and 8 2 x 2 squares. To drizzle with chive oil. Pour over hot, foaming umami
serve, reduce the broth into a syrup and warm the broth.
kombu.
Important: Don't boil any longer!
8 oysters (Gillardeau No 2)
Kombu cream
314
I
315
MENU
VII
DI SH V
CREAMY
KOSHIHIKARI
ABALONE
TRUFFLE
FOIE GRAS
Abalone
Glazed truffle
Koshihikari rice
316
317
DISH V
CREAMY KOSHIHIKARI
ABALONE I TRUFFLE I FOIE GRAS
4 large, live abalones 250 g foie gras terrine (see page 349)
10 ml dashi (see page 347)
10 g light brown soy sauce Freeze the foie gras terrine for at least 6 hours at
10g kombu -18 •c. Then with a fine Microplane grater, grate
into a pre-cooled bowl and then immediately
Cut the abalones from their shells, wash, clean and freeze until needed.
hit gently with a tenderiser. Put the other ingre
dients in a vacuum pouch and heat at 72 •c in a
bain-marie for 12 hours. Then cool off and cut into Koshihikari
1 mm thick slices. Before serving portions of 7-8
slices, bring to a temperature of 62 ·c in the Hold 400 g Koshihikari rice
a-mat for 10 minutes. 30 g finely diced shallots
1 tbsp vegetable oil
Salt
60 ml white wine
1.5 L chicken stock (see page 345)
50 g blanched vegetable brunoise (carrots, celery,
zucchini)
30 g black truffle, finely chopped
70 g cold butter
10 g chives, finely sliced
20 ml whipped cream
Pepper, sugar
Glazed truffle
TO SERVE
120 g fresh, black truffles, (about 3 large units)
20 g butter
40 ml port Place the creamy Koshihikari in the middle of
40 ml madeira a warm plate with the help of a (8-9 cm diameter)
40 ml sherry ring and arrange the 8 pieces of glazed truffle
20 ml truffle juice around it. Put the abalones in a circle on the rice,
with the frozen foie gras snow in the centre
Clean the truffles and then crumble into at least and adorn with bean blossoms. Finally, scatter a
64 small pieces. Finely chop the crumbs and use in few drops of the crustacean jus around the plate.
the rice (see left).
Toss the pieces in the butter foam and then add
the remaining ingredients, cook until a bright shiny
glaze appears.
Garnish
8 bean blossoms
2 tbsp reduced crustacean jus (see page 346)
318
I
319
MENU
VII
DI SH VI
DUCK FROM
>MONSIEUR MIERAL<
BLACK SALSIFY IN SAKE
BEETROOT
DIM SUM
Baby beetroot
Beetroot, marinaded
Black salsify
Dim sum
Duck
Duck sauce
Salsify puree
320
321
-
BAU.STEINE DISH VI
Dim sum mixture 500ml milk 3 duck legs (skinless and boned meat), finely
Duck leg meat (see page 324) Juice of 1 lime chopped
150 ml ready-made duck sauce (see right) 24 thin, straight salsify roots 500g duck carcass
¼ clove of garlic 50g shallots, cut into line rings 50ml vegetable oil
1 tbsp curly parsley 1 tbsp vegetable oil 80g shallots, finely chopped
Salt, pepper 150ml sake 50g each of finely chopped carrots, celery, mush
30ml mirin rooms
Remove the meat from the bones and pull into 40g butter 1 bay leaf
individual meat >threads<. Boil the leg meat with a Sugar, salt, pepper 5 juniper berries
little sauce into an even, creamy mixture. 1 tsp peppercorns
Meanwhile, chop the garlic and parsley finely and Mix milk and lime juice. Peel the salsify completely 1 sprig of rosemary
mix together. Season the leg mixture to taste and place it in the milk immediately. Then cut all 150ml red port
with salt and pepper and add the garlic-parsley the peeled salsify into 12cm long pieces, trimming 50ml madeira
mix to taste. the ends at a sloping 45· angle. Saute the shallots 80ml red wine
in oil till colourless, add the salsify, then add sake 750ml chicken jus (see page 345)
and mirin. Cover with baking paper and stew the 50g cold butter
Dim sum salsify till done. Take the salsify from the broth, dry 1 pinch of xanthan gum (if needed)
8 dim sum dough sheets (ready-made) it off and fry it in a pan with foamed butter and a Salt, freshly-ground black pepper
1 egg yolk little sugar until it is amber and then season it to ½ tablespoon beetroot granules
100g dim sum mixture (s. above) taste with salt and pepper.
20ml chicken stock (see page 345) Brown the duck leg meat and the carcasses in the
20g butter oil. Add the vegetables and seasoning and roast at a
Salt, pepper, sugar low heat for 8 -10 more minutes.
Gradually add the alcohol until almost completely
Process the dim sum dough once through the absorbed. Then pour in the chicken stock and
pasta maker, then coat with egg white and fill each simmer for about 1.5 hours. Constantly ladle off all
sheet with 12g of the dim sum mixture. Fold the the fat and foam from the sauce. Pass the sauce
filled leaves into half-moon shapes and close them through a line sieve and reduce it to about 300 ml.
using a dim sum press. Heat the dim sum gently in Then add in the cold butter and, if necessary,
a bamboo basket for about 4 minutes, then glaze in bind with 1 pinch of xanthan gum, season to taste
chicken broth and butter and season to taste with with salt and pepper and stir in the beetroot
salt, pepper and sugar. granules.
322
I
323
DISH VI
Black salsify
PAGE 323
TO SERVE
Salsify puree
Place the pieces of salsify next to each other on
1L milk a warm plate, then arrange the puree around it and
Juice of 1 lime garnish each piece of salsify with a chip. Put the
800g black salsify carved duck in the middle of the plate. Arrange the
150g shallots dim sum, baby beetroot and beetroot balls attrac
30g butter tively next to it and garnish with the cress. Then
70ml white wine pour over the hot sauce.
200ml water
Salt, pepper, sugar
1 pinch of xanthan gum
40ml cream
Mix 800ml milk and lime juice Peel the salsify and
place it in the milk immediately. Then cut the
shallots and the peeled salsify into walnut-sized
pieces and saute till colourless. Add wine and
completely boil away the wine. Then fill with the
remaining milk and water, season with salt, pepper
and sugar, cover with baking paper and cook till
soft. Then strain and mix with the xanthan gum and
cream in the Thermomix until smooth. Reduce the
puree in a large pot until firm. Season to taste.
Salsify chips
Garnish
324
I
325
MENU
VII
DISH VII
>JAPANESE
SNOWBALL<
RED SHISO
CAL PICO
YUZU SAKE
Calpico foam
Ginger macaroons
Pineapple ragout
Yuzu sake
326
327
DI SH VII
>JAPANESE SNOWBALL<
RED SHISO I CALPICO I YUZU SAKE
Pineapple ragout
TO SERVE
80g pineapple
40g green peaches
5 g pineapple gel (see left) Place the pineapple ragout in a (5 cm) ring on the
1 g green shiso julienne plate and make a little depression in the middle.
Stir a couple of drops of coriander oil into the yuzu
Cut the pineapple and peaches into 2 x 2 mm dice sake and pour it around the ragout.
and carefully mix with the rest of the ingredients. Place a ball of shiso sorbet in the depression and
Store in a cool place until needed. surround the ball with the yuzu sake foam. De
corate the sorbet with crunchy rice pearls and a
little shiso cress. Finally, arrange alternately 5
Ginger macaroons macaroons and the same number of shiso leaves
evenly around the ball.
300ml apple juice
30ml white balsamic vinegar
55 g egg whites
60g sugar
6g ginger
Garnish
328
I
329
DISH VIII
>SNICKERS
2018 <
PEANUT
CHOCOLATE
CARAMEL
MALOON SALT
Aerated chocolate
Caramel gel
Caramel paper
Chocolate drop
Chocolate sponge
Exotic gel
Maldon salt
Muscovado crumble
Peanut cream
Peanuts
Salted caramel
332
I
333
DISH VIII
>SNICKERS 2018<
PEANUT I CHOCOLATE I CARAMEL I M ALDON SALT
Peanut cream
-------PAGE 333
_C_h_oc_ o _ r_ o
_ la_ t_ e_ d _ __
p� PAGE 333
Caramel gel
50g sugar
60ml cream
The pulp of 1 vanilla pod
50ml water
0.5g Maldon salt
0.5g agar-agar
0.5g gel Ian gum
TO SERVE
100ml pineapple juice 100g halved peanuts, roasted
100g pineapple pulp 30g powdered sugar
50g mango pulp 1 pinch of gold powder Put a little exotic gel on the plate and then on
25g passion fruit pulp both sides lay one each of the fake peanuts,
25g brown sugar Caramelise the peanuts with the powdered sugar chocolate sponge, chocolate drop and aerated
Pulp from ¼ vanilla pod in a pan. Then let them cool separately on baking chocolate. Ensure that the peanut cream is at
3g agar-agar paper. Colour the cooled nuts with the gold pow the correct temperature. Sprinkle the muscovado
3g gellan gum der and store them in a dry cool place. crumble in the spaces and place the caramel gel
and exotic gel dots in an attractive arrangement.
Bring all ingredients to the boil and leave to cool Place 3 gold caramel peanuts and 3 salted caramel
in a container. Then beat the mixture to a smooth Caramel sweets cubes on top. Decorate with atsina cress, gold leaf
gel in the Thermomix and pass it through a fine and caramel sweet paper and place a large scoop
strainer. 100g caramel sweets (Werthers Originals) of salted caramel ice cream on top. Sprinkle a little
salt on the ice cream and the salted caramel.
Mix the sweets into a fine powder in the Thermo
Chocolate sponge mix. Sprinkle the powder onto a Silpat mat and
bake at 180 ·c for 45 seconds. Store in a dry place
15g almond semolina till required.
15g sugar
8g cocoa powder
5g flour Garnish
100g egg white
1 pack of atsina cress
Mix up all ingredients for 5 minutes in the Thermo- 1 pack of gold leaf
mix at the top setting. Then pour mixture into an 1 g Malden salt
isi-Siphon, load with 4 gas capsules and chill for 4
hours. Spray into a plastic container and micro
wave at 800 watts for 40 seconds. The mixture will
have now formed into a sponge shape. Remove the
sponge and mould to required size and then dry
in the oven for 2 hours at 80 •c.
Aerated chocolate
334
I
335
20 YEARS
VICTOR'S FINE DINING
BY CHRISTIAN BAU
336
337
From that day forth, it was absolutely clear to me what
I wanted to do with my life.«
Bau did what he needed to, worked harder than others
and achieved his aim sooner than expected. In April
1998, he became head chef at Schloss Berg in Perl-Nen
nig. He was lucky enough to have a company - or rather
an employer - who didn't just see a top class restaurant
as a profit centre but appreciated its invaluable charis
ma and the value of culinary excellence. He accepted
and supported the fact that Christian Bau sometimes
needed to run free, to get rid of the knife rests, the clas
sical table music and the waiters in dinner jackets and
instead to experiment with Thai flavours and Japanese
seaweed and even to replace the menus with a >Carte
Blanche<. Bau gets to do it - and it works.
Today, in Autumn 2018, Christian Bau will have been
head chef for twenty years. Highly rated in every good
restaurant guide, with three Michelin stars since 2005
H I� -
...,
·1r lJf1 I l�I
') J
[
I I
•• 1111
•
�;
RESIDENZ-HOTEL
',,
SCH LOSS BERG
.. ,--; • t·�
*****S
r
.
,ft·
340
341
342
I
343
BASIC RECIPES
500 g white mushrooms Mushroom basic mixture (see left) 1st mixture
500 ml water Mushroom stock 2 (see left) 25 kg veal bones
500 ml chicken stock (see right) 50 ml Noilly Prat, reduced by half 1 baking tray of vegetables (carrots
Salt and shallot, quartered, celery stalks,
Pick the mushrooms to rough pieces 15 ml Chardonnay vinegar (Forum) white mushrooms)
and add to a tall pot. Cover with 80 ml vegetable oil
water and chicken stockand bring Distribute the veal bones flat on the
to the boil once with a pinch of salt. Mix the mushroom mixture with baking tray and roast in the oven at
Then leave to stand for about 4 hours some mushroom stock 2 to a smooth 200 ·c for about 90 minutes until
at 80 ·c. Bring to the boil again and mixture and season with Noilly-Prat dark. Roast the vegetables in a roast-
strain through a conical strainer. reduction, salt and Chardonnay ing pan. Pour off any fat which may
Firmly squeeze out the mushrooms. vinegar. Add vegetable oil in the mixer have come off the bones and place
Important: Retain the squeezed out as with a mayonnaise until the desired the bones with the vegetables in a
mushrooms! consistency has been achieved. Sea- pot and top up with water. Leave the
son again. mixture to simmer lightly for 24 hours
and then strain.
Mushroom stock 2
Vegetable stock 2nd mixture
250 g brown mushrooms 15 kg sawed veal tail
Complete mushroom stock 1 (see 3 L water 1 baking tray of vegetables (see 1st
above) 300 g carrots mixture)
200 g celery stalk 3 bottles red port
Pick the mushrooms to rough pieces, 200 g shallots 1 bottle madeira
add to a tall pot and top it up with 200 g mushrooms 1st mixture (see above)
cold mushroom stock 1. Bring to the 200g leeks
boil once leave to stand for about 4 2 bay leaves Distribute the sawed veal tail flat on
hours at 80 •c. Bring to the boil again 10 peppercorns the baking tray and roast in the oven
and strain through a conical strain 1 pinch of salt at 200 •c for-about 90 minutes. Roast
er. Important: Do NOT squeeze out the vegetables in a roasting pan,
mushrooms. Wash and clean the vegetables and add the port and madeira and reduce
chop into hazelnut-size pieces. Then by half. Then add the bones and
bring water, vegetables and season vegetables to a large pot and top up
Mushroom basic mixture ings to the boil once and leave to with the liquid from the 1st mixture.
stand on the side of the stove for 1 Leave everything to simmer lightly for
250 g mushroom remains from mush- hour. Finally strain and refrigerate 24 hours and then strain. Yields about
room stock 2 until use. 20 litres.
Mushroom stock 2 (see above)
4.5 g agar-agar
1 sheet of gelatine, softened and
squeezed out
50ml sunflower oil 1 kg chicken carcasses, chopped into 50ml vegetable oil 1.5 kg fish carcasses (primarily turbot,
100g leek, coarsely chopped walnut-sized pieces 1 kg game or wildfowl bones, chopped dover sole or zander carcases}
100g celery stalks, coarsely chopped 500g chicken leg, chopped fine fine 200g onions, coarsely chopped
150g carrots, coarsely chopped 100ml olive oil 60g shallots 150g white part of leek, coarsely
100g mushrooms, coarsely chopped 350g shallots, diced into walnut-sized 150g carrots chopped
2 kg chicken bones, chopped fine pieces 100g leeks 150g celery stalks, coarsely chopped
200ml white wine 500g carrots, celery stalks and mush 60g mushrooms 5 large white mushrooms (use only
1 bunch parsley rooms, chopped into walnut-sized 1 tbsp tomato puree the white part}
1 sprig of thyme pieces and mixed in equal parts 1 sprig of thyme 5 cloves of garlic, crushed in the skin
1 spiked onion 2 thyme sprigs 2 bay leaves 1 sprig of thyme
2 L water 5 cloves of garlic, crushed in the skin 1 clove 2 fresh bay leaves
Salt 1 tbsp white peppercorns 6 white peppercorns 1 tbsp white peppercorns, crushed
2 tbsp tomato paste 6 juniper berries 75ml vegetable oil
Heat the oil in a pot and saute the 3 litres water 1 clove of garlic 2 L cold water
coarsely chopped vegetables in it until Salt 600 ml full-bodied red wine 500g ice cubes
transparent. Add the chicken bones, 30ml red wine vinegar
saute them and add white wine. Add the carcasses and legs to a roast 1 L water Clean the fish carcasses, soak and
Add the herbs and the spiked onion er and roast in oil in the oven at about chop finely. Braise the vegetables,
and pour in water. Salt and skim the 200·c, stirring occasionally. Once Heat the oil in a roosting pan, add the herbs and seasonings on moderate
foam which rises. Leave all of this to this mixture has taken on a golden bones and roast in a preheated oven heat in warmed vegetable oil in
simmer for about 1.5 hours, skimming colour, add shallot, vegetables, herbs at 220 •c stirring occasionally for a large flat pot until translucent. Add
occasionally. Strain the prepared and spices. Take care that none of the about 20 minutes. Chop the vegeta the fish carcasses and again braise
stock and refrigerate. ingredients take on too much colour bles coarsely, add and leave to roast until translucent. Pour water on this
or even burn! for 5 minutes. Add tomato paste, mixture, add ice cubes and slowly
Pour the mixture into a sieve, allow herbs and seasonings as well as garlic bring to the boil on moderate heat.
Chicken stuffing the fat to drip off and add to the and braise for another 10 minutes. Continuously skim the stock so that it
roaster again. Add the tomato paste Add red wine and red wine vinegar becomes clear. As soon as the stock
130g chicken meat (breast} and briefly roast together. Add and pour over water. Salt lightly, bring is boiling, reduce the heat, slide
50g foie gras everything to a large pot, top up with to boil and skim. Leave to simmer the pot to the edge of the stove and
150g cream water and salt lightly. Bring to the boil lightly for 1 hour on the stove at a low let stand for about 30 minutes. Then
Salt, freshly-ground black pepper once and skim the foam which rises. heat and occasionally skim the foam strain the stock thorough a cloth
Leave the stock to simmer for 3 hours from the stock. Strain the prepared or double fine sieve and preferably
Tip: When making a stuffing it is maximum and occasionally skim the stock through a sieve and refrigerate. store in airtight preserving jars in
important that all ingredients are well foam. Then strain and reduce to 1 the refrigerator.
cooled. litre.
Cut the meat and foie gras into small
dice. Add it to a bowl cutter, season
and puree finely. Add cream bit by
bit and process in the cutter until
you have a uniform mixture. Press
the stuffing through a fine sieve and
refrigerate.
344
I
345
BASIC RECIPES
Carcasses of 5 Breton lobsters, 100 g celery stalks, diced into walnut 3 shallots, diced into walnut-sized
chopped fine sized pieces pieces
50 ml olive oil 1 fennel bulb, diced into walnut-sized 100 g celery stalks, diced into walnut
50 g fennel, diced into walnut-sized pieces sized pieces
pieces 4 shallots, diced into walnut-sized 100 g white part of leek, diced into
2 shallots, diced into walnut-sized pieces walnut-sized pieces
pieces 3 mushrooms, diced into walnut-sized 3 mushrooms, diced into walnut-sized
2 mushrooms, diced into walnut-sized pieces pieces
pieces 100 g white part of leek, diced into 2 ripe tomatoes, cored
60 g celery stalks, diced into wal walnut-sized pieces 3 cloves of garlic
nut-sized pieces 50 ml olive oil 50 ml olive oil
60 g white part of leek, diced into 2 kg shellfish carcasses (preferably 10 white peppercorns
walnut-sized pieces langoustine pincers and lobster 2 bay leaves
50 g carrots, diced into walnut-sized carcases) 2 thyme sprigs
pieces 100 ml white wine 2 kg lobster or langoustine carcasses
2 tomatoes, cored 300 ml Noilly Prat 250 ml Noilly Prat
2 thyme sprigs 10 peppercorns 400 ml white wine
1 bay leaf 1 bay leaf 3 L water
10 peppercorns 1 sprig of thyme 500 ml tomato juice
Madeira, Noilly Prat, Cognac, white 3 L water 200 g cold butter
port Salt, cayenne pepper
600 ml fish stock (see page 345) Saute the vegetables in olive oil until
600 ml chicken stock (see page 345) translucent. Add the shellfish carcass Saute the vegetables in olive oil until
es and add white wine and Noilly Prat. translucent. Add spices, herbs and
Add the spices and herbs and top up shellfish carcasses. Add the Noilly
Clarifying mixture with water. Leave to simmer lightly Prat and white wine and top up with
for about 1 hour and strain through a water and tomato juice. Bring to
300 g fish meat, without skin and fine sieve. the boil once, skim, reduce the heat
bones (preferably zander) and leave to simmer lightly for about
3 egg whites 1.5 hours. Pass through a fine sieve
80 g celery stalks, chopped into and refrigerate.
brunoise Reduce the stock to a minimum
80 g white part of leek, chopped into (150-200 ml) for later use and add
brunoise the cold butter using a hand-held
80 g carrots cut into brunoise blender or blender. Season with salt
and cayenne pepper.
Saute the lobster carcasses in olive
oil, add vegetable, herbs and season
ings and lightly saute together. Add
the alcohol and reduce to a third.
Then top up with fish and chicken
stock and allow to simmer lightly for
3-4 hours. Pass through a fine sieve
and allow to cool.
Grind the fish meat and mix with egg
white and vegetables. Slowly bring
the lobster stock to the boil with the
clarifying mixture and leave to stand
for about 1.5 hours. Strain through
a fine sieve with a cloth.
Red shellfish sauce Red reduction (for purple curry) Truffle jus Dashi
346
I
347
BASIC RECIPES
Mix all ingredients in Thermomix at Mix the sunflower oil and miso paste. 1 lemon
80 ·c. Then strain through a cloth Double vacuum-seal and let stand 2 limes
sieve and immediately put in the at 80 ·c in a bain-marie for 4 hours. Salt, freshly-ground black pepper,
freezer to go cold. Carefully remove Then cool down in iced water. sugar
the solid oil from the frozen mixture 500ml olive oil
and keep refrigerated.
Daikon radish oil Squeeze the citrus fruits, pour the
juice into a bowl, season with the
Coriander oil 120g daikon cress seasonings and mix with the olive oil.
60g parsley Refrigerated and leave to stand for
50g coriander leaves 200ml vegetable oil 24 hours.
25g parsley leaves 3g salt
200g vegetable oil
2g salt Cut the cress from the pack. Chop Shiso vinaigrette
up the parsley coarsely and mix with
Mix all ingredients in Thermomix at cress, oil and salt at 80 •c in the 200 ml rice vinegar
60 ·c. Then strain and allow to cool Thermomix. Then drain through a fine 200ml mirin
in the freezer. Carefully remove sieve and freeze. Carefully remove 130 ml white soy sauce
the solid oil from the frozen mixture the solid oil from the frozen mixture 10 bulbs of garlic with skin, halved
and keep refrigerated. and keep refrigerated. 30 large green shiso leaves, coarsely
chopped
20g bonito flakes
Garlic oil 1.5g xanthan gum
550 ml grapeseed oil
1 garlic bulb Salt, pepper, sugar
200ml sunflower oil
Salt Bring the rice vinegar, mirin and soy
sauce to the boil with the garlic. Add
Chop the garlic coarsely, vacuum with shiso leaves and bonito flakes and
a pinch of salt and leave to stand for leave to cool. Strain it and bind lightly
24 hours. with xanthan gum. Strain again and
carefully stir in the grapeseed oil.
Season to taste with salt, pepper and
sugar.
BASIC RECIPES
MISCELLANEOUS
348
I
349
TEAM
350
I
351
THANKS
to my beloved wife and best friend Yildiz and my Dominik Sabel & done by people, who were always
two angels Katharina and Lisa-Marie. You give me able to give the ideas we developed together the
the strength and energy I need, you're my balance right setting in images and design.
and motivation. Thank you for your constant sup
port and sacrifice - without you I would not have Julia Bauer, Redaktionsburo Kuchenzeile, for the
been able to make it to where I am today. Love you perfect phrasing - always the right word and symbol
so much! in the right place.
our second family, the team! My sincerest thanks go the hosts and friends on our trips, in particular, M.
not only to current but also all former employees! Pacaud, the Fritz family, Bettina Keller and Araki
Gastronomy is teamwork - so every chef is only Sam.
as good as his/her team. I am grateful, proud and
humbled by the team spirit, loyalty and the constant all my dear friends, especially Lars Ammer, Daniel
support and that I, as the >team coach<, have been Kiowski, Nina Mann, Prof. lngo Scheuermann and
privileged to achieve our common aims and visions Dirk Spoerhase-Eisel. You have always been there
together with you. for me and are kindred spirits, support, sounding
boards, counter-balances and inspiration in equal
the management of the Victor's group of companies, measure. Thank you for existing!
in particular to Hartmut Ostermann and Susanne
Kleehaas without whose vision and feeling for con our sponsors, Gosset Champagne, Lavazza Espresso
temporary hospitality and cuisine we would never & Pellegrino/Aqua Panna without whose support we
have achieved what we had always dreamed of. would not have been able to create this work as it is.
Dr. Christoph Wirtz for his informative and enter the colleagues in the Victor's group of companies
taining text as well as his support from the beginning for their identification with our work, their consist
of the project. Thanks for the constantly construc ent help and their support and also implementation
tive, insightful and helpful exchange of views. I really of one mad idea after another.
appreciated every minute!
our producers and suppliers - what would we be
my dear friends Lukas Kirchgasser and Stefanie without their commitment, service and love of de
Primessnig for their extraordinary visual and culinary tail. It is our aspiration to bring the best ingredients
sensitivity. You always had the right vision and knew and victuals to Schloss Berg with the help of our
how to implement your ideas perfectly! Right from partners.
the beginning it was always so good, so motivating
and pleasant to work with you - I would happy to do our beloved guests who are always the stimulus,
it again at any time! drive and inspiration for our day-to-day activity! We
want to make people happy with our work.
Matthaes Buchverlag and in particular the Publish
ing Director Bruni Thiemeyer, who shared my vision
right from the beginning and also perfectly realised
it. Thanks for the thoroughly enjoyable collaboration!
352
I
353
THE CREATIVE ONES
Born in 1971, after his training, Chris Dr. Christoph Wirtz has been involved
tian Bau first worked in the >Talmi.ihle< with the European cultural heritage of
Hotel-Restaurant in Sasbachwalden. pleasure for around 20 years - among
In 1993, in the >Schwarzwaldstube< in others as a regular columnist at WELT/
Baiersbronn, he found a great teacher WELT am SONNTAG, Stern and Park
in Harald Wohlfahrt and became his Avenue magazine, BEEF!, Stern-Viva!
sous chef. Since 1998, Bau has been or DER FEINSCHMECKER. He is the
Head Chef and Host in >Victor's Fine originator and chair of the committee
Dining<, the gourmet restaurant at for awarding the >Walter Scheel Medal
Schloss Berg and in the same year for the Culture of pleasure and Lifes
he received his first Michelin star. In tyle<, which has been awarded to such
2005, aged 34, he became Germany's luminaries as the Haeberlin family,
youngest three-star chef. Today, Bau Angelo Gaja, Hugh Johnson, Georg J.
has the highest ratings in all gourmet Riedel, Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger,
guides, he has been awarded >Chef Eckart Witzigmann, Giannola Nonino
of the Year< on numerous occasions and the Gillardeau family in previous
and in 2018 at Schloss Bellevue he was years: www.walter-scheel-medaille.de.
presented with the German Order of
Merit by Frank-Walter Steinmeier,
President of Germany. Christian Bau is
married to Yildiz Bau who manages the
service in the restaurant. They have
two daughters.
IMPRINT
d fv'Matthaes
Verlag
356
I
357
>>WE WANT
TO MAKE
PEOPLE HAPPY
WITH OUR
WORK<<
CHRISTIAN BAU
>>do things with passion -
or not at all!«
II 1
ISBN 978-3-87515-431-3
9 783875 154313