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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

utrecht “In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-

written series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times

Winter 2010 - 2011

Winter Events
Christmas markets,
concerts and more

Cafés & Nightlife

The best restaurants,
pubs and clubs

Dick Bruna
Get to know the famous
creator of Miffy

N°01 - €2.50
The best places to eat, drink, see, sleep
and experience could be metres away.

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Foreword 4
A few words from the editor

Arriving in Utrecht 5
How to get to your hotel

The Basics 6
Getting to grips with Utrecht

History 10
The city’s past on two pages Unlike Rembrandt or Van Gogh, one of the Netherlands’
biggest artists is still very much alive. Dick Bruna is the
Culture & Events 12 creator of Miffy (in Dutch: Nijntje), known from Tokyo to
Buenos Aires, from New York to Sydney. Discover his
Concerts, galleries and events incredible world on p.51. Photo of Dick Bruna by Ferry Andre
de la Porte
Where to stay 20
Beds for backpackers and business executives High times in Holland 42
How to smoke legally and responsibly
Dining & Nightlife 24
The Dutch have much more to offer than cheese Sightseeing 44
Museums, churches and other sights
Cafés 34
Classic cafés and high tea Getting around 52
Planes, trains and automobiles (bikes, too!)
Nightlife 36
Bars, pubs, clubs and cafés List of small features
Useful phrases 8
The weed pass 39
Street talk 53
Stitch ‘n’ Bitch 57
Football: FC Utrecht 58
Space oddity 61

Shopping 54
Sports & Leisure 58
Health & Wellness 60
Lifestyle directory 61

Maps & Index

Hotel, restaurant and nightlife index 62
Old city map 63
Utrecht city map 64
Greater Utrecht area map 65
Country map 66
Old city street register 67
There’s something for everyone in Utrecht: canals, medieval
architecture and, yes, lots of bikes. Photo by Ilse Ouwens Winter 2010 - 2011

An unsuspecting traveller arriving at the ugly, misshapen
Central Station would never guess that a completely Europe In Your Pocket
different world is only a 5-minute walk away. Utrecht is
sometimes disrespectfully called ‘Little Amsterdam’ by
people who haven’t given the city a good look, and espe-
cially by the citizens of the capital, but Utrecht has much
more to offer than canals, although it does have quite a
few of those, too. Holland’s fourth largest city is a genuine
jewel in the Netherlands’ crown and a pure joy to experi-
ence. Its medieval city centre and unique wharf cellars are
the stuff of legends, but you can enjoy them without the
hordes of tourists that are so ubiquitous in Amsterdam.
With a history that stretches back to distant Roman times,
Utrecht could easily rest on its laurels, yet it’s always striv-
ing to achieve something new. This is in part due to the
presence of thousands of local and international students
that call this university town home. These youngsters
lend Utrecht a hip air of freedom and vitality that’s hard to
find elsewhere and make a night out on the town a must.
But it’s not all about the new generation. Young and old
enjoy the many terraces and pubs around town and the
nation’s largest shopping centre ensures a fun day out
for anyone who appreciates some buying and browsing.
Culture enthusiasts can take advantage of the city’s many
museums and concert halls, not to mention the highest
church tower in the Netherlands, a reminder of Utrecht’s
place in history as one of the Catholic centres of the world.
Whatever you intend to do in Utrecht, don’t leave without
trying its famous biscuits, because the way to the heart of
Utrecht is through your stomach.
In Your Pocket is once again breaking new ground.
Newsstand Fresh from bringing you the most up-to-date city guides
“The In Your Pocket series of guide booklets have ... around, we have recently gone Swiss with a move into
become a European publishing phenomenon.” Switzerland. The first issue of Zurich In Your Pocket
International Herald Tribune is now out, providing visitors to the Swiss commercial
capital with all the usual essential information an In
Cover story Your Pocket guide provides. We also recently took
Utrecht’s biggest attraction is its medi- the wraps off Prizren In Your Pocket, a guide to the
eval centre, which is just begging to be second largest city in Kosovo, produced in cooperation
explored. In case you get lost, the mighty with Cultural Heritage Without Borders. You can
Dom Tower, which is the highest church download a free PDF copy of all our guides at our
spire in the Netherlands and featured on website, To keep up with all In
the cover of this first edition of Utrecht
In Your Pocket, is always there to guide Your Pocket news and events, like In Your Pocket
you back to the city’s wharf cellars, res- on Facebook ( or follow
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Editorial Copyright notice

Editorial team Theo Leerintveld Text and photos copyright In Your
(, Pocket Netherlands 2010 - 2011.
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Isa McKechnie & Martins Zaprauskis Maps copyright cartographer. All rights
Contributors Robert van der Hek reserved. No part of this publication
may be reproduced in any form, except
In Your Pocket Netherlands (museums), Rivkah Zeeman, Annet brief extracts for the purpose of review,
Weikesstraat 28 Pauwelussen, Jacco Hupkens, Francine without written permission from the
5335 LE Aarts, Peter van Lent (history), publisher and copyright owner. The
Alem Rosalinde van Wijck brand name In Your Pocket is used under
Netherlands Research Theo Leerintveld & Lies license from UAB In Your Pocket: Vokieciu
tel. (+31) 653 79 91 46 Heessels 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania. Layout & Design Martins Zaprauskis Photos Theo Leerintveld, Ilse Ouwens Editor’s note and Lya Cattel unless otherwise noted. The editorial content of In Your Pocket
Miffy drawing courtesy of Dick Bruna guides is independent from paid-for
ISSN 2210-545X Cover photo Lya Cattel advertising. Sponsored listings are
© In Your Pocket Netherlands Sales & Circulation clearly marked as such. We welcome all
readers’ comments and suggestions.
Advertising Ardi Lock (ardi.lock@ We have made every effort to ensure
Printed by Microdot in the EU the accuracy of the information at the
Published four times per year Circulation Theo Leerintveld & Ardi time of going to press and assume no
60,000 copies annually Lock responsibility for changes and errors.

Utrecht In Your Pocket

arriving in utrecht 

Utrecht is the most centrally located large town in the

Netherlands, which means that within two hours you can
be pretty much anywhere in the country. The inner city of
Message from the Mayor
Utrecht is small enough to be tackled on foot. For longer
distances, there are plenty of city buses. We don’t recom- You are on the verge of buying
mend driving in the city centre, because almost every this guide - or you bought it
street is a one-way and cyclists whoosh past from all di- already. So you must be - like
rections making it a nerve-racking experience. Fortunately myself - a lover of cities. No
there are parking garages around the edges of the centre. holiday trip is complete with-
out a visit to one of the many,
many beautiful cities in the
By car neighbourhood or… without
Driving to Utrecht can be a difficult task and be quite expen- a reliable and practical travel
sive. Parking costs a hefty €4.10/hour and its hard to find guide about that city.
a parking spot in or near the old town. Don’t park without What could I as mayor of the
paying unless you want to pay a huge fine. If your coming from city tell you, by way of intro-
out of town, parking at one of the four Park & Ride places is duction? Give you an over-
your best option. If you’re determined to drive into the Old view of the city’s interesting
Town then look for a parking garage. There are no less than history and architecture, an
15 in Utrecht and 12 of those are located in and around the overview of the main tourist attractions of Utrecht or
centre. The rates vary from €2 - 3/hour. You can find them the addresses of the best, the cheapest, or most char-
easily by following the blue signs, which will also tell you how acteristic hotels? No, because you will find all this in the
many free spaces are available. Parkeergarage Paardenveld, following pages of this guide.
within walking distance of the Hoog Catharijne shopping mall, What I myself would like to read is, for example, that the
is probably your best option. It’s not only open 24hrs, it also medieval heart of our city is a place of human propor-
has competitive rates and 384 parking places. A parking tions, a place to feel - as the excellent Utrecht designer
spot may be difficult to find on nights with late opening hours and architect Gerrit Rietveld put it - like a cat in a basket.
(Thursdays) and at the weekend. In our beautiful churches and museums - of course. But
also in our downtown pubs and restaurants. Along our
Parking in the streets of the centre is a bit harder. A number characteristic canal wharves - yes. But also in our many
of the parking spots are reserved for licence-holders and small and colourful shops and markets.
rates are rather high. Parking within the old city centre will Glancing through this little book, I more and more feel
cost €4.10/hour 07:00 - 01:00. Rates in the area just around like taking a week off myself.
the centre are slightly less horrific: somewhere between Aleid Wolfsen
€2.10 and €2.50/hour. In the parking garage you pay when Mayor of Utrecht
you leave, but if you park your car in the streets you must first
buy a ticket at one of the ticket machines nearby and display
it on your dashboard. Parking police are very active in Utrecht, By train
so be sure to keep track of how long you’re gone. The station area is undergoing a facelift with the ultimate goal
Parkeergarage Paardenveld A-1, Kroonstraat 9, tel. to combine the station with the old city centre. Inconvenience
(+31) 302 33 13 14, Open 24hrs has been limited as much as possible but can’t be avoided
and in walking distance (3 min.) from the centre. Parking completely. International and domestic trains arrive here very
€2.50/hour. Q JL often. Utrecht has no less than five train stations: Utrecht
Central and the suburban stations Lunetten, Overvecht,
By plane Zuilen and Terwijde. There’s not much to experience at the
smaller stations, which is why most tourists arrive at Utrecht
Schiphol Airport Amsterdam If you arrive at Schiphol you Central. If you get off at the central station there are two exits:
can easily take the train to Utrecht. When you leave the ar- the rear exit leads to the De Jaarbeurs events hall and the
rivals hall, follow the signs to the train station. The trains in front exit leads to the city centre. If you follow the signs for
the direction of Utrecht leave from platforms 1, 2 or 3 and Hoog Catharijne you’ll walk in the direction of the centre.
leave every 15 minutes. The trip takes about half an hour Food & Drink The tracks run underneath the central hall. If
and costs about €8. you take the stairs up you’ll find various kiosks, book shops,
a music shop, a Starbucks and a chemist. Food is available
Eindhoven Airport From Eindhoven Airport you take the bus at the mini-supermarket AH to-go, or you can grab a snack
to Eindhoven train station, after which you can travel onward from the Burger King or one of the other fast food places.
by train. This trip takes about 90 minutes and costs about The large, blue departure signs are a good place to agree
€14, after which you’ll be strolling on the Oudegracht within to meet someone in the busy hall.
5 minutes. Check for timetables.

Other airports Adventurous travellers can also choose to Tourist information

fly to one of the German airports. The Cologne S-Bahn will
take you to Cologne central train station, after which the VVV Utrecht B-2, Domplein 9, tel. (+31) 900 12
ICE will take you straight to Utrecht. The hip Sky Train from 87 32,, www.utrechtyourway.
Düsseldorf Airport will take you to the Düsseldorf Flughafen nl. Tourist information, hiking routes and the usual gifts
train station. From there it’s only a short trip to Duisburg and souvenirs can all be found here. It’s also a starting
station, where the same ICE train will take you to Utrecht. point for many city walking tours and guided excursions
ICE tickets are quite affordable if you book in time and to the Dom Tower, not to mention a distribution point for
vary from €16 - 63. You can book online by credit card. For this guide. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00,
timetables and reservations you can go to Sun 12:00 - 17:00. TJAU
or Winter 2010 - 2011

Alcohol Maps
Utrecht is famous for its many cafés and restaurants so
you’re never far from a glass of wine or a pint of beer. We hate to confuse you, but in our efforts to be thorough
Heineken and Bavaria are the two most popular beers on we’ve provided no less than four maps for your perusal.
offer at most places in the inner city. Other tasty brews The Netherlands map is fairly self-explanatory, but the
include Grolsch, Hertog Jan, Amstel and the Belgian Jupiler. others might need some clarification. Unless otherwise
Beer is served everywhere, especially Belgian brews, but noted, map references in this guide (A-3, etc.) refer to
you must be able to prove that you’re at least 16 years old the old city map on p.63. Map references (A-3, etc.) and
(to drink beer or wine) or 18 for spirits. If you look too young addresses followed by (Utrecht-City) refer to the larger
you’ll be carded, so always bring identification. This holds Utrecht city map on p.64. The greater Utrecht area map
true for supermarkets and off-licences, too. If you’re a little on p.65 is there to give you a general idea about the city’s
too tipsy you’ll probably be asked (firmly, yet kindly) to leave surrounding towns and villages.
the premises and if you don’t cooperate you could end up
spending a night sobering up in a police drunk tank.
Climate No, the Dutch do not wear clogs en masse, and not everybody
It’s usually cold and wet in winter and often warm and dry cultivates tulips, makes cheese or works in a windmill. That
in summer. On the bright side every season has its charms. the Dutch are busybodies has been known for centuries. In
Try walking across the beach of the North Sea (at low tide!) the Dutch Golden Age, the Dutch East India Company spread
during a spring or autumn storm. Visit a sunny street market its tentacles across the world, and this trading spirit is still
in summer or have a snowball fight in a wintry park. Whatever a part of the local mentality. The largest part of the popula-
the weather, the Dutch will always find a reason to complain tion works in financial services or retail trade. Bargaining
about it and if you’re ever short on subjects to talk about when you buy something in a shop or at the market is not
with a Dutchman, then the rather trivial statement Lekker customary and you can expect surprised expressions from
weer, (nice weather, don’t you think?) is probably sufficient shop staff if you do. The Dutch are generally friendly, but they
to get him started on a long and wordy rant. may strike you as reserved. When people meet each other,
they shake hands; friends kiss each other three times on the
Disabled travellers cheek: left, right, left.

Access for disabled people is taken into consideration

nearly everywhere in the Netherlands. Many public buildings Health & Safety
have special entrances, lifts and toilets that are wheelchair Utrecht is a relatively safe city for both residents and tourists,
friendly. Blind and visually impaired travellers can find their but you should watch out for pickpockets. Obviously, don’t
way on pavements thanks to special adjusted tiles, and many leave your belongings unattended and use common sense. It
pedestrian crossings at traffic lights have clicking noises as might make you more comfortable to know that the old town
well as light signals. If you end up in a rare place where this is full of fake birds which are in fact video cameras watch-
isn’t the case, you can ask any bystander for assistance. ing everyone. If you’ve lost (or found) something visit www.
The Dutch are a very helpful lot. where you can register these
items. You can pick up found items with a valid ID at Depot
Drugs Gevonden Voorwerpen at Kanaalweg 50 (open Tue 13:00
- 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00).
It comes as no surprise that in many places in the Nether-
lands you’re allowed to buy and smoke marijuana and other
soft drugs. And you may have also heard that dealing or Language
possessing hard drugs is forbidden. You can be arrested for Dutch is an Indo-European Germanic language that is mostly
it and punishments are no laughing matter. Soft drugs are spoken in the Netherlands, Flanders and Suriname (South
sold exclusively at so-called coffeeshops so don’t buy them America). It is closely connected to the Low German dialects
on the streets. These products are often uninspected and which by now have largely been flooded by official German.
may be adulterated with unknown rubbish. Again, dealing is These dialects managed to keep a number of proto-German-
forbidden. Stay wise and limit yourself to the coffeeshops ic characteristics, and for this reason, Dutch as a language
and get high responsibly. is a living fossil. It represents a group of important dialects
that were spoken by the founders of the Frankish Empire
and the Saxons. The latter group were the founders of the
Market values English language as it is spoken today, hence Anglo-Saxons.
Afrikaans, as it is spoken in South Africa, is descended from
the 17th-century version of modern Dutch. To the dismay of
McDonald’s Big Mac €3.25 $4.33 £2.75 language purists, many English words have been integrated
Loaf of white bread €1.00 $1.33 £0.85 into Dutch. Moreover, many youth are responsible for a shift
Snickers bar €0.80 $1.07 £0.68 in the language. This is not something recent: in the first
0.7L of vodka €11.90 $15.87 £10.08 half of the 19th century, students already started thinking
0.5L bottle of local beer €0.56 $0.75 £0.47 up their own words, words that have now had a place in the
20 Marlboros €4.80 $6.40 £4.07 Netherlands’ most renowned dictionary, Dikke van Dale,
Public transport ticket €1.60 $2.13 £1.36 for decades. Recently the ‘Dutch-language’ hip hop band
Cinema ticket €9.00 $12.00 £7.63 De Jeugd van Tegenwoordig (Today’s Youth) provided a
1l of petrol €1.62 $2.16 £1.37 bombardment of words that are hardly ever understood by
Exchange rates (as of 06.12.2010) anyone over the age of 30. Watskeburt? (Dutch slang for
US$1 - €0.75, £1 - €1.18, ¥100 - €0.91, AUD$1 - €0.74 ‘what’s happened?’). See Useful phrases for more help with
the Dutch language.

Utrecht In Your Pocket


Local time Orphaned bikes

From 28 March to 31 October, the Netherlands is in the
Central European Summer Time Zone, or GMT+2. The rest The Netherlands is the only
of the year the clock ticks according to the Central European country in the world where the-
Time Zone, or GMT+1. re are more bikes (18 million)
than inhabitants (16.5 million).
Phones At the busiest train station
in the Netherlands, Utrecht
You can use your mobile phone if your provider has an inter-
national roaming agreement with one of four mobile phone Central Station, it’ll take you
networks in the Netherlands. Normally, if you’re abroad, you at least 15 minutes to find a
have to pay roaming charges on all incoming and outgoing place to park your bike and
calls, text messages, mms and internet. Depending on your this despite the fact that the
phone usage, it’s well worth considering buying a local SIM local council has recently cre-
card that you simply use in your own phone. A prepaid ac- ated 14,500 parking spots for bicycles. One of the
count starts from around €10. To purchase one you need biggest causes of this chaos is the fact that the
to show your passport.
Dutch leave their bikes at the station en masse,
and often never pick them up again. One in five
Phone numbers bicycles at any random Dutch train station is an
All In Your Pocket guides in its European publishing empire orphan. Some people dump their bicycles consci-
list country codes before all telephone numbers. The Dutch ously, while others often don’t remember where
country code is (+31), but of course, you only have to use this if they parked it after a boozy night out. But these
you’re dialling from abroad. If you’re already in the Netherlands so-called orphans actually take up very pricey
and want to call one of the numbers in this guide, just ignore real estate, because each spot at a station costs
the (+31) prefix, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number.
between €400 - 600 euro to create. Underground
parking is even more expensive: €2,500 per spot!
Post That seems (and is) steep, but bear in mind that a
The Dutch postal system works more or less infallibly. Letters parking spot for a car costs at least ten times as
and parcels are sent without ado across the whole world. At much! But not everyone loses their bike because
post offices and post agencies (store-in-store, for example they’re irresponsible. During an average year in the
at supermarkets) you can buy stamps and drop off parcels. Netherlands, between 800,000 and one million
Any Dutch street is incomplete without the orange or red
TNT post-boxes. You can drop off your postcards in the
bikes are stolen.
slit labelled overige postcodes (other postcodes). Posting
a letter or a postcard within the Netherlands will cost you
€0.44, within Europe €0.77 and for the rest of the world you Money
pay €0.95. For parcel shipping prices and the most up-to- Since 2002, a large part of the European Union has adopted
date postage rates check the euro as its local currency and the Netherlands is no
exception. One euro contains 100 eurocents. There are
coins of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 eurocents, and also of 1 and
Little known Netherlands facts 2 euro. Banknotes are available with the following values:
5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Although a collection
of €200 and €500 bills in your wallet might make you feel
- Dutch people love to eat raw herring with onions on like Bill Gates, or better yet Steve Jobs, bear in mind that
top. they’re almost never accepted in shops or restaurants. You
- 75% of Dutch women work part time. This is the highest can exchange and withdraw money at most large banks;
number in Europe. there are plenty in the centre of Utrecht. All Dutch banks
- Holland is 6.7 meters below sea level at its lowest point. accept Visa and MasterCard at their cash dispensers. At the
About 20% of the country of The Netherlands is below train station (Stationshal 11) you can find a GWK Travelex
sea level. The rest is above it and wouldn’t go under if shop (open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00
the dikes gave way. - 17:00). Many restaurants, hotels and shops accept Visa
- The term ‘Dutch’ is used in English both for the people and MasterCard, but to avoid disappointment, be sure to
who live in the Netherlands and the language they carry some cash with you.
- Dutch is also spoken in Belgium, northern France,
Suriname, the Netherlands Antilles and Aruba. Netherlands facts & Figures
- There are around 18 million bicycles in Holland, which Population: 16.5 million (in 2010).
supposedly means almost one for every inhabitant. Longest rivers: Rijn (Rhine) and Maas (Meuse).
- Holland has the highest museum density in the world, Highest point: Vaalserberg (323m)
with almost 1000 museums. Length of Dutch coastline: 451km
- The landscape of Holland is dotted with around 1000 Utrecht: Capital of the province of Utrecht.
windmills, which have become its hallmark. Dom Tower: Highest church tower in the Netherlands (112m).
- The Netherlands has over 4,400km of navigable rivers, Medieval harbour (nominated a Unesco World heritage site).
canals and lakes. Famous Utrechters: Adriaan Florenszoon Boeyens
- Holland is the third largest exporter of agricultural was the one and only Dutch pope (Rome, 1522); Wesley
products after the U.S. and France. Sneijder and Marco van Basten (football players); Dick
Bruna and Miffy. Winter 2010 - 2011


Useful phrases
Useful phrases
How are you? Hoe gaat het met je?
Pleased to meet you Leuk kennis met je te maken.
Do you speak English? Spreek je Engels?
Where is the nearest shop, hotel, restaurant, café, bar
or toilet?
Waar is de dichtstbijzijnde winkel, hotel, restaurant,
café, bar of toilet?
What’s your name? Hoe heet je?
My name is … Ik heet ...
What time is it? Hoe laat is het?
How much? Hoe veel kost dit? Utrecht is dripping with culture and history Ilse Ouwens
This costs too much! Dit is veel te duur!
Hello Hallo
Hi Hoi National holidays
Good morning Goedemorgen There are a number of public holidays in the Netherlands.
Good evening Goedenavond On these days shops, museums and attractions often
Goodnight (greeting) Goedenacht close earlier and some stay closed the whole day. Schools,
Goodnight (sleeping) Welterusten city councils, post offices and banks are closed and some
Goodbye (Dutch) Tot ziens shops and restaurants may also close. Those still open
Bye (Dutch) Dag will have abbreviated opening hours. It’s also worth say-
Bye (in Den Bosch) Houdoe! ing that the Easter holidays and subsequent Pentecostal
Yes Ja holidays are popular times for Dutch families (and those
No Nee from many other European countries) to travel, so if you’re
Maybe Misschien plans include a road trip to several destinations, be prepared
Cheers! (as a toast) Proost! for plenty of fellow drivers and book your accommodation
All the best! Het beste! in advance. Queen’s Day on 30 April is a big celebration
Thank you Dank je wel in all of the Netherlands. Sinterklaas on 5 December
is also a typical feast day when everyone celebrates at
Days of the week home. There are a few regional variations with carnaval-
Monday Maandag len (carnival) celebrated in February and March in Catholic
Tuesday Dinsdag areas. Of course, Budget Day also has its charms! The
Wednesday Woensdag date is followed by the name of the holiday in English and
Thursday Donderdag the Dutch name appears in parentheses just after that.
Friday Vrijdag
Saturday Zaterdag January 1 New Year’s Day (Nieuwjaarsdag)
Sunday Zondag April 22, 2011 Good Friday (Goede Vrijdag)
April 24-25, 2011 Easter (Pasen)
Numbers April 30 Queen’s Day (Koninginnedag)
1 een 2 twee May 1 Labour Day (Dag van de Arbeid)
3 drie 4 vier May 4 Remembrance of the Dead (Nationale
5 vijf 6 zes Herdenking)
7 zeven 8 acht May 5 Liberation Day (Dag van de Vrijheid)
9 negen 10 tien May 9 Mother’s Day (Moederdag)
11 elf May 13 Ascension Day (Hemelvaartsdag)
20 twintig May 23-24 Whitsun (Pinksteren)
21 eenentwintig June 20 Father’s Day (Vaderdag)
50 vijftig June 26 Veterans’ Day (Veteranendag)
100 honderd September 21 Budget Day (Prinsjesdag)
1000 duizend December 5 St. Nicolas (Sinterklaas)
December 25-26 Christmas (Kerstmis)
Street smarts December 31 New Year’s Eve (Oudejaarsdag)
Street straat
Road weg
Lane laan Religion
Highway snelweg According to a recent survey, fewer than 20% of Dutch people
Boulevard boulevard attend church regularly. But historically the Netherlands is
Square plein characterized by a multitude of religions. Since the middle
Market markt ages, and until the late 20th century, the Netherlands was
Airport vliegveld a predominantly Christian country. Although religious diver-
Bus station busstation sity remains to the present day, there is a major decline in
Train station treinstation religious adherence. Almost half of the Dutch population are
Taxi taxi Hang out with Greek not members of any religious community. The other 55% are
goddesses in Utrecht distributed over a number of religions, from which almost
Lya Cattel half are affiliated with a Christian church. The largest group
(26.6%) is Roman Catholic. The number of Catholics is not

Utrecht In Your Pocket


only declining, but many people who identify themselves as

Roman Catholic also do not regularly attend Sunday mass.
Fewer than 200,000 people or 1.2 % of the Dutch popula-
tion attends mass on a given Sunday. Most Catholics live
in the southern provinces of North Brabant and Limburg
where they make up the majority of the population. The
rest of the ‘believers’ are distributed over a multitude of
Protestant churches. Since the 1970s these protestant
churches have also seen a major decline in adherents and
have begun to work together. The Church embraces religious
pluralism. Islam is a relatively new and fast-growing religion
in the Netherlands, and according to recent (CBS) statistics
about 944,000 or 6% of the Dutch population are Muslims.
Islam’s numbers began to rise after the 1970s as a result
of immigration. These numbers are the main reason for the
populairty of the Dutch right-wing politician Geert Wilders.
The remaining 10% of the population is a member of another
religion, including Hinduism and Buddhism. Judaism has been
present in the Netherlands for much of the country’s history Bird’s eye view of Utrecht Lya Cattel
and several sources claim judaism arrived in the Netherlands
before Christianity. During the Second World War a large
majority of Jews were deported to foreign lands and brutally Smoking
murdered in the Holocaust. Until recently, smoking was very common in the Netherlands.
Since the introduction of the ban on smoking in public places
Roads on 1 July 2008, smoking has become a lot less common. This
is partially because the government started a huge campaign
For a country as small as the Netherlands, there are a to make people aware of the effects of smoking on their
ridiculously high number of asphalt roads and motorways. health. Nowadays you can have a wild night out and come
Every town, village or hamlet can be reached from the black home without your hair and your clothes reeking of cigarette
ribbon that never seems to be more than a few kilometres smoke. For some this is an enormous benefit, and others
away. Despite the excellent state of Dutch roads (and cars (read: smokers) find it a pain, and banish themselves to the
- it is compulsory in the Netherlands that your car is checked many smoker’s rooms in the country. Moreover, thanks to
for faults once every two years) traffic quite frequently jams unclear rules you may suddenly find yourself in a pub where
at a large number of bottlenecks. This is not very strange there are people smoking. This is usually in pubs with just
if you consider that there are, on average, two vehicles per a single staff member: the boss. Or you may find yourself in
household. And there are 7 million households! a pub that flouts the ban on smoking. This will not have any
The majority of Dutch drivers never break the speed limit, consequences for you: if you light a cigarette in a pub and the
and considering the severity of traffic fines, this seems manager tolerates this, then the manager will receive a fine
wise enough. Driving through a red light? This will cost you upon inspection. Next to cigarette smoke, the Netherlands
€160. Driving too fast within city limits? Be prepared to pay is of course also known for its wafts of marijuana. For more
€180! And as soon as you exceed the maximum speed information see ‘Drugs’.
limit by 50km/h you’ll lose your driving licence and be fined.
Just a few rules: within city limits you must drive 50km/h,
outside city limits 80 and on motorways 100 or 120 (check Toilets
the road signs!). There are few public toilets in the Netherlands, but if you’re
In the Netherlands you must drive on the right side of the lucky enough to find one you can recognise if it’s for Ladies
road, and you are not allowed to cycle on motorways! You (Dames) or Gents (Heren) by a symbol or a word on the door.
don’t want to know how many tourists are plucked off the When you have to go badly, it’s not generally accepted to
road by police each year, happily pedalling to their next simply barge into a café or restaurant. If you do, staff will ap-
destination. preciate if you ask in advance if you may use the toilet. If you
see a saucer by the toilets, then you’re expected to donate
a small amount of money for toilet maintenance; 20 or 50
cents is fine. Tip: Hema, a chain of shops which has branches
in almost every town, has a paid public toilet. If you see a red
H sign on the street, then deliverance may be near!

Whether a prospective visitor requires a visa depends on
his nationality and how long he intends to stay in the Neth-
erlands. Nationals of many countries require a visa for an
uninterrupted stay of up to three months. Countries whose
nationals do not require a visa for a stay of three months
or less include: Andorra, Argentina, Australia, Brazil, Brunei,
Canada, Chile, Costa Rica, Croatia, Cyprus, El Salvador, EU
countries, Guatemala, Honduras, Iceland, Israel, Japan,
Liechtenstein, Malaysia, Malta, Mexico, Monaco, New Zea-
land, Nicaragua, Norway, Panama, Paraguay, San Marino,
Singapore, South Korea, Switzerland, USA, Uruguay, Vatican
It’s warmer inside! Lya Cattel City and Venezuela. Winter 2010 - 2011

10 history
From the rampaging Vikings to Hitler’s Nazis, beautiful
Utrecht’s history has been turbulent to say the least.

47 AD - Castellum Traiectum
Around the start of the Common Era, the Romans expand
their empire to the Rhine delta and the areas along the
Elbe. In the year 47 AD, Roman emperor Claudius decides
that the River Rhine is to become the northern border of
the empire. The border, also called Limes, is protected
with fortresses. At a fordable place along the Rhine they
build the Castellum Traiectum, which will later become
Utrecht. Utrecht canal in winter Ilse Ouwens

1122 - Holy Roman Emperor Henry

V grants Utrecht a charter
In 1122, Holy Roman Em-
peror Henry V visits Utre-
cht to confer with nobles
and clergymen. A few days
after Whitsunday, fatal
clashes arise between
the emperor’s guards and
the servants of Bishop
Godebald of Utrecht. Henry
imprisons Godebald and
AD 695 - Willibrord arrives in lets Utrecht’s inhabitants
take an oath of loyalty. In
Utrecht exchange he grants the
city a charter.
In 695 the Anglo-Saxon
missionary Willibrord
settles in Utrecht. Here 1254 - Building of the Dom Church
he helps build a stone
church which he dedicates In 1253 the Romanesque
to St. Martin and founds Dom Church was heavily
a second church, the St. damaged by a large town
Salvator. Willibrord, who fire. The Dom chapter
had been initiated as chooses not to renovate
Bishop of the Frisians by and instead decides to
Pope Sergius I, now tries build a new Gothic cathe-
to convert Frisians while in dral. In 1254 Bishop Hen-
Utrecht. As a cathedral city drik van Vianden placed
Utrecht later grew to be the the first stone of the new
most important ecclesias- Dom Church. Construction
tical centre of the northern is subsidised by, amongst
Netherlands. other sources, Pope
Clement’s granted indulgences. After the choir, the tower
and the transept are built a lack of funds brings building to
a halt. The Dom is finally completed in 1520.
857 - AD Vikings attack Utrecht
In 857 AD Vikings reach 1529 - Construction of Vredenburg
Utrecht during a typical
pillaging journey. During After Holy Roman Emperor
their attack they destroy Charles V conquers the
the town’s gates and walls, Utrecht bishopric in 1528,
and they kill civilians and he commissions the
clergymen at the bishop’s city’s inhabitants to build
court. The bishop himself Vredenburg. This castle
narrowly escapes death by built under coercion was
fleeing to the protection of the Frankish king Lothar. The meant to keep the citizens
Vikings use Utrecht as a base of operation for plundering of Utrecht under control, as
the city’s surroundings. well as to better protect the area against the Duke of Guel-
ders. Spanish troops leave the castle in 1577 after being
Historic images seen here are courtesy of Utrecht beleaguered by Dutch rebels. It is then destroyed by the
Stadsarchief. 1713 map courtesy of Vrede van Utrecht people of Utrecht who feared the Spanish might return.

Utrecht In Your Pocket

history 11

1579 - Union of Utrecht 1945 - Utrecht Liberation

On 23 January the signing On 2 May the news of Adolf
of the Union of Utrecht Hitler’s death is spread
took place in the charter throughout the country
hall of the Dom of Utrecht. and on 4 May illegal under-
In this treaty, which was ground radio reports that
a reaction to the Union of the Netherlands has been
Atrecht, a number of towns liberated. Many inhabitants
and districts - including of Utrecht go out onto
Holland, Zealand, Utrecht, the streets, but German
Gent and Bruges - agree to march against the Spaniards. soldiers shoo people back
Moreover, the agreement settled some disputes in the inside by shooting. While the German commander refuses
fields of religion, defence and taxes; thus it can also be to acknowledge the capitulation, British and Canadian
seen as the first version of a constitution. troops enter Utrecht on 7 May, where they are greeted by
rejoicing crowds.

1636 - Founding of the University

1973 - Opening of the Hoog Cath-
While the first plans for the
foundation of a university in arijne Shopping Centre
Utrecht stem from the late 15th
century, it is only in the 17th In 1962 the local council
century that the city council decides that the old station
takes action. In 1632 the city neighbourhood does not
council founds an ‘illustrious adhere to the needs of
school’, which is proclaimed to modern traffic and asks
be an academy four years later. the company Empeo for
Theologian Voetius and lawyer advice. Together with the
Antonius Matthaeus are the council, Empeo draws up
first professors of the new uni- a plan for a new, raised
versity. In 1642 an observatory station square with shops, residences, offices and parking
becomes part of the university, garages. After an understanding is reached with Dutch
which makes Utrecht, after Leiden, the oldest university in Railways (NS), construction of a new centre is begun.
the world with an observatory. In 1973 Hoog Catharijne - now the oldest example of a
shopping and office centre in the Netherlands - is officially
opened by Princess Beatrix.
1713 – The Treaty of Utrecht
The Treaty of Utrecht was
concluded on 11 April
Treaty of Utrecht
1713 and marked a critical
moment in the history of Treaty of Utrecht 2013 B-2, Kromme Nieu-
Europe and Utrecht. This wegracht 70, tel. (+31) 302 39 38 90, fax (+31)
brought an end to a series 302 39 38 91,, www.
of devastating wars that In 2013, the 300th anniver-
had claimed many millions sary of the Peace Treaty of Utrecht will be celebrated
of lives over a period of two centuries. The Treaty of Utre- in a grand way. The real festivities will only begin on 11
cht is regarded as an important event that paved the way April 2013, but over the next few years many events
for European cooperation and conflict management – a will lead up to the celebrations. Utrecht is looking to top
forerunner to today’s European Union and United Nations. its efforts in 1713 with an incredible and unforgettable
calendar of events. In case you’re not an historian, the
Peace Treaty of Utrecht was signed on 11 April 1713: a
1807 - Palace of Louis Bonaparte treaty that ended almost two centuries of war in Europe.
Prior to this historic event, Utrecht functioned as host,
partner and stage for an international group of dignitar-
ies that determined Europe’s future. This was the first
peace treaty ever to be realised solely by diplomacy and
Utrecht played a large role with its incredible hospitality
that lasted 18 months! For more information about the
unique treaty and upcoming events visit the website
Napoleon Bonaparte comes to power in 1802 and in listed above.
1806 he appoints his brother Louis Bonaparte as king
of Holland. As Louis doesn’t enjoy The Hague he moves
his residency to Utrecht in 1807. After the necessary
houses have been purchased, palace construction begins,
which Louis will later occupy in 1808. A year after that, he
heads off to Amsterdam. Today the building is used as the
University Library. Winter 2010 - 2011

12 Culture & Events
Worldwide, the Netherlands offers the largest concentra-
tion of art and culture per square kilometre and Utrecht Rock, pop, jazz & More
is the city with the largest density of cultural treasures in
Date Time Event Venue
Cinemas 22 20:15 Rock. Miss Montreal. Tickets €14 TOG
Louis Hartlooper Complex B-5, Tolsteegbrug 1, tel. 22 21:30 Doom. Pyramido. Heavy doom AC
music from Sweden. Tickets €5
(+31) 302 32 04 52, Utrecht’s most 22 21:00 Hiphop. Plug-IN. Last session of SJ
recently opened cinema is undoubtedly it’s most popular. this legendary open stage. Free
Built in a former police station, this complex shows only 22 20:15 Wicked Ways. Waylon. Dutch VLR
independent art house films, but lots of them and most are soulsensation. Tickets €22.50
of outstanding quality. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. JU 23 20:15 Rock. Blaudzun. Tickets €11 TDH
Rembrandt A-2, Oudegracht 73, tel. (+31) 302 31 25 23 21:00 Rock. Kasha Nasha. Balkan SJ
56, For the beats, gypsy sounds and Jewish
cheapest cinema in Utrecht you can buy tickets from €5. music together. Free
Q TJAUG 24 23:00 Reggae. A Reggae Bomb. Tribute TDH
‘t Hoogt B-2, Hoogt 4, tel. (+31) 302 32 83 88, info@ to the real reggae with Irie, Movies that no commercial Christmas. Tickets €7
cinema would dare to show are frequently found at ‘t Hoogt 28 20:30 Funk. Gotcha! Famous Dutch TOG
and enjoyed by a loyal crowd of intellectuals. QOpen 18:30 band from Haarlem. Tickets
- 22:00, Sat, Sun 13:30 - 22:00. PJG €17.50
29 21:00 Rock. The Ex, Fendika, Wolter SJ
Wierbos. The Ex have made
Concert halls 14 albums in 30 years. Tickets
Acu B-1, Voorstraat 71, tel. (+31) 302 31 45 90, €7.50 - 12.50, The ACU hosts a wide range 30 21:30 Jazz. Scallymatic Orchestra TDH
plays Jimi Hendrix. Don’t expect
of activities including catering, concerts, dance nights, politi- straight covers from the master,
cal informatiion nights, poetry readings, a squatters’ advice but songs with a crossover mix
bureau, a food co-op, the Schism information shop, benefits, of rock, jazz, blues and soul.
parties and conferences. Q JEK Tickets €12
Ekko A-1, Bemuurde Weerd WZ 3, tel. (+31) 302 31 31 00.30 Dance. Elektro Swing Club. In TOG
74 57, Local and international bands and Tivoli Spiegelbar. Tickets €17
DJs often perform at EKKO. Expect modest pop, screeching Jan
rock, booming techno and electro, the newest hip-hop, roaring 6 22:00 Dance. Baskerville. The first TDH
Balkan Beatz and much, much more. Q PJ6EG album of this Dutch duo received
Rasa A-1, Pauwstraat 13a, tel. (+31) 302 31 60 40, great reviews from the press. Tickets Wed - Fri 15:00 - 18:00. Q JE Tickets €11
Sju Jazzpodium A-1, Varkenmarkt 2, tel. (+31) 302 34 7 20:30 Digital Folkmusic. Lunapark TK
09 15, This dark cellar has ensured that plays Sturm im Wasserglass.
Utrecht has been a jazz hot spot for decades. Q JE The most adventurous music
Tivoli De Helling C-5, Helling 7 (Utrecht-City), tel. company in the Netherlands.
(+31) 90 02 35 84 86, Since 2003 pop Tickets €16.50
stage Tivoli has ruled this annex where alternative concerts 8 21:00 Jazz. Ab Baars Trio plays John SJ
and dancing nights take place featuring dancehall, hip-hop, Carter. Tickets €7.50 - 12.50
electro, gothic and other music genres.QOpen Fri, Sat 23:00 9 15:00 Electronic music. Fremdkunst. EK
Dutch band that mixes jazz,
- 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PEGX beats & electronica. Free
Tivoli Oudegracht B-3, Oudegracht 245, tel. (+31) 900 9 15:00 Blues. Cuby and the Blizzards. TDH
23 58 48 6, Tivoli is a centre for pop culture Keith Richard of the Rolling
in the heart of Utrecht. With 305,000 visitors each year, Tivoli Stones and lead singer Harry
is one of the larger pop stages on the Dutch club circuit. It can Muskee have been in the music
host up to 1,000 concert-goers. Q JAEG business for almost 45 years!
Vredenburg Leeuwenbergh C-3, Servaasbolwerk 1A, And they're still going strong.
tel. (+31) 302 31 45 44, Vredenburg Come out and watch these good
Leeuwenbergh specialises in unamplified chamber music, old Dutch rockers before they
jazz and world music concerts, but there’s also room for collapse of a heart attack on
experimental music and young talent. It was built in 1567 as stage or – even worse – move to
a hostel for plague victims and was used by the French army. a nursing home. Tickets €23
There is a parking garage nearby on the Kruisstraat and a 14 20:45 Alternative/post-rock band from EK
bus (Nr. 2, the Museumkwartier loop) stops a five-minute walk Leeds, England. I Like Trains.
from the Leeuwenbergh. Q JAE Tickets €10
Vredenburg Leidsche Rijn B-4, J.C. Verthorenpad 15 20:30 Folk. My Bubba & Mi. Tickets €8 EK
100 (Utrecht-Area), tel. (+31) 302 31 45 44, www. 17 20:15 Dance. Graffity 6. Although TOG
these Brits have only recorded Because of construction and renovation one album so far, their feel-good
work on its original building in the city centre, Vredenburg music won have already won
will have two locations in Utrecht until 2013: Vredenburg the hearts of the Dutch public.
Leidsche Rijn and Vredenburg Leeuwenbergh. Large-scale There songs are spiced with
concerts will take place in Vredenburg Leidsche Rijn, while lots of house and hiphop beats.
Vredenburg Leeuwenbergh will serve as a recital hall. Q Tickets €14

Utrecht In Your Pocket

Culture & Events 13

Rock, pop, jazz & More

19 20:30 Ska. David Hillyard & The EK
Rocksteady 7 + Ollie Q & The
Deep Six. Tickets €12
20 20:15 Rock. Daau, Isbells, Dez Mona. TOG
Three Belgian bands for the
price of a cheap waffle, a few
chocolates, a Belgian trappist
and some french fries (without
21 23:00 Dance. D-Energy. DJ Paul Elstak TDH
plays good old house classics.
Tickets €12.50
22 20:45 Acoustic. Murder. Tickets €8.50 EK
22 21:00 Guitar. Ebo Taylor’s career as an RS
outstanding Ghanaian guitarist,
composer and arranger spans
over 50 years. His afrobeat, Legendary pop star Kim Wilde will perform on March 20
highlife and afrojazz have shaped at Tivoli
Ghanaian popular music for over
half a century. Tickets €10 - 17
23 12:30 Lunch concert. Eefje. This SU Rock, pop, jazz & More
23-year-old singer/song writer
won recently a prestigous Dutch 29 20:15 Bluesrock. DeWolff. Bands like TDH
award due to her original music Cream, Led Zeppelin and Deep
style and the way she entertains Purple inspired these three
people from start to finish. young Limburgisch boys. Tickets
Tickets €27.50 (including lunch, €12.50
no drinks) 30 15:00 Young cantaora Rosario ‘La RS
25 20:00 Metal. Oz. Utrecht is increasingly TDH Tremendita’ and her Iranian
becoming a city where Japanese counterpart, classical singer
metal bands feel at home. Mohammad Motamedi, search
Frontman Natsuki is the inspiring for potential sounds from old
leader of this vibrating metal Al-Andalus in this meeting of
band. Tickets €31 flamenco with Persian music.
25 20:00 Soul. Different musicians sing SU Tickets €12 - 20
Soul & Disco Brothers. This Feb
swinging show transforms the 1 20:15 Soul. Oleta Adams. Tickets €35. VLR
theater into a funky soul venue 2 19:30 Folkjazz. Three Korean virtuosos RS
with songs by James Brown, meet with three luminaries of
Earth, Wind & Fire, Michael New York’s cuttingedge music
Jackson, Marvin Gaye, Prince and scene in this ‘spectacular and
Stevie Wonder. Tickets €24 - 28 utterly beautiful’ mix of Korean
26 20:00 Flamenco music and dance. In RS shamanism, sanjo (blues) and
this zenith of Jerezean flamenco, gagok (art song) with free jazz
the spectacular dance of Joaquín and contemporary composition.
Grilo meets the versatile guitar Tickets €12 - 20
playing of giant Moraíto Chico 4 20:30 Techno. Combichrist. Big German TOG
and the deep singing of Jesús rockers Rammstein recognised
Méndez, one of the rising stars the high energetic power of
of cante flamenco. Tickets Combichrist by asking them to
€14.75 - 23 join them on there last European
tour. Tickets €18
4 21:00 Pop. La Pegatina. A mix of rumba, TDH
ska, reggae, punk and even
flamenco can be found in there
music. Tickets €13
5 20:45 Indierock. Me & Stupid. Dutch EK
musicians Peter Visser & Carol
van Dyk (Bettie Serveert) made
this project with Australian
musicians. Tickets €10
5 19:30 Shamanistic music. This RS
night with traditional and
contemporary shamanistic music
features the great Yakutian
singer Stepanida Borisova and
Chinese Jew’s harp virtuoso
Wang Li. Tickets €12 - 20
Scandinavian trio My Bubba and Mi will perform on
January 15 at Ekko Winter 2010 - 2011

14 Culture & Events

Rock, pop, jazz & More Rock, pop, jazz & More
6 12:30 Lunchconcert. Dennis Kolen. SU 16 20:15 Rock. Isobel Campbell and Mark TOG
Dutch singer-songwriter. Tickets Lanegan. Tickets €17
€27.50 (including lunch, no 19 21:00 Trance. Energy. International JU
drinks) - artists from 9 countries; the first
6 14:00 Orchestral art music. Complex RS 07:00 edition of Energy is complete.
tone clusters and rich overtones The three rooms ‘Connect’,
characterise the Korean ‘Execute’ and ‘Play’, host popular
orchestral art music which DJ legends and rising talents.
accompanies colourful court Tickets €49.50
dances. Tickets €12 - 20 20 16:30 Metal. Bonecrusher Fest 2011 TOG
9 20:30 Rock/Folk. Richard Thompson TOG (Dying Fetus, Keep of Kalessin,
Band. How can you describe Carnifex, Annotations of An
the career of a man who has Autopsy, Fleshgod Apocalypse).
made more than 40 albums and Tickets €20
was named one of the Top 20 24 20:45 Indierock. Oh No Oh My. EK
Guitarists of all-time by Rolling American band praised for their
Stone Magazine? Tickets €25 upbeat sound and versatile
10 20:15 Worldmusic. Live from Buena VLR instrumentation. Tickets €9
Vista: The Havana Lounge is 24 20:15 Britrock. Kensington. Borders is TDH
a music and dance spectacle. the name of the first album of his
Tickets €35 Utrecht based band. Tickets €9
11 20:45 Rock. Krach. Young promising EK 25 20:15 Rock. The Black Angels. Four TDH
Dutch band. A must for guitar guys from Austin, Texas.
lovers! Tickets €8 Psychodelic 1960s rock. Tickets
11 21:00 Chaabi music. The famous RS €13
ensemble Ouled El Bouazzaoui 25 21:00 Jazz. Together with French jazz RS
specialises in the marsaoui, an giant Louis Sclavis, Ivorian
older, more original form of the balafon master Aly Keita and
widely popular Moroccan chaabi Argentinian percussionist Minino
party music. Tickets €10 - 17 Garay, Moroccan guitarist, ud
12 20:30 Indierock. Dolorean + Ben EK player and guembri player Majid
Weaver. Tickets €10 Bekkas searches for the West-
12 20:00 World music. Gaby Moreno. Latin, VL African roots of gnawa and jazz in
blues, soul and a melancholy this excellent crossover project.
voice characterises this Tickets €12 - 20
American singer/songwriter with 26 21:00 Pop. Alessandra Leão is RS
Guatemalan roots. Tickets €23 considered one of the great
12 20:15 Folk/Rock. Laura Veirs and the TDH new talents in the music scene
Hall of Flames. Even pregnancy of Pernambuco, Brazil. Tickets
couldn’t keep her away from the €8.50 - 14
stage. Tickets €12.50 26 21:00 New Wave. Clan of Xymox. Dutch TDH
13 15:00 Folk/Jazz. With his new RS darkwave music. Tickets €15
trio, Turkish/Armenian 27 15:00 Worldmusic. The blind singer and RS
singer/percussionist Arto lute player Farhôd Qôri Halimov
Tunçboyaciyan, leader of the from Uzbekistan is a master of
famous (and often hilarious) the classical shashmaqam as
Armenian Navy Band, explores it was played at the medieval
the common ground between courts of the Emirs in Central
jazz and Armenian and Anatolian Asia. The Mavrigi Bukhara
folk songs. Tickets €10 - 17 Ensemble performs old Uzbek
folk songs from Merv. Tickets
€10 - 17
27 12:30 Lunchconcert. Robin Block. This SU
Amsterdam-based singer/
songwriter sings intimate and
intense songs. Tickets €27.50
(including lunch, no drinks)

5 21:00 Funk. Interactivo is one of RS
the hottest new bands in the
panorama of contemporary
Cuban music, consisting of some
of the best musicians of Cuba’s
younger generation. The group
has patented the ‘funk timba’, a
new style with influences from
rock, hip-hop, reggae, jazz and
American indie rockers Oh No Oh My will perform on soul. Tickets €10 - 17
February 24 at Ekko

Utrecht In Your Pocket

Culture & Events 15

Chamber music festival

Janine Jansen’s International Chamber Music
Festival: Between Christmas and New Year’s Eve the
centre of Utrecht will host the eighth annual edition of
this festival. The programme is varied with music by
Bach, Mozart, Brahms, Mahler, Francks, Schnittke and
Richard Dubugnon. Between Sunday 26 December and
Wednesday 30 December, 25 performances will take
place in the city centre. Concerts are hosted at Vreden-
burg Leidsche Rijn and Vredenburg Leeuwenbergh and
at other locations throughout Utrecht. Music ranges from
a Christmas matinee to children’s concerts, from organ
English alternative band I Like Trains will perform on music in the Dom Church to concert halls on wheels. For
January 14 at Ekko more information visit You
can buy tickets at Vredenburg’s ticket office or by calling
(+31) 302 31 45 44.
Rock, pop, jazz & More
9 20:15 Dancemusic. Dazzled Kid. This
is the latest soloproject from
TDH Galleries
Voicst-singer Tjeerd Bomhof. BAK (Basis voor Actuele Kunst) B-3, Lange Nieu-
Tickets €13 wstraat 4, tel. (+31) 302 31 61 25, www.bak-utrecht.
10 20:15 Pop. Ozark Henry. This Belgian TOG nl. BAK is a venue for contemporary art, an open platform
singer/songwriter has created for creating, presenting and analysing art projects. QOpen
his own musical universe over 12:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. T
the past 15 years . Like Coldplay, Centrum Beeldende Kunst Utrecht B-1, Plompe-
but for more intellectual spirits. torengracht 4, tel. (+31) 302 30 79 10, www.cbk-utre-
Tickets €15 QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
11 20:00 Folk. Folk meets contemporary RS 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. TJ6
jazz and chamber music in Moira Expositieruimte B-1, Wolvenstraat 10, expo@
this Nordic double bill featuring
the raspy drone music of the, Moira is an art
Finnish ‘horse hair orchestra’ space for up-and-coming talents, especially young artists who
Jouhiorkesteri and the dreamy haven’t been drawn into the conventional art circuit. Moira
folkjazz of the Icelandic/ Belgian organises about 10 exhibitions each year. QOpen 13:00
quartet Mógil. Tickets €12 - 20 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. TJG
12 21:00 Worldmusic. Malinese master RS Zimihc C-1, Bouwstraat 55, tel. (+31) 302 72 34 55,
musician Bassekou Kouyaté is ZIMIHC is the city’s hub for amateur art
the ambassador of the ngoni, and you can buy quality pieces for surprisingly low prices.
the African ancestor of the banjo. Q TU
His band Ngoni Ba includes his
wife, the great Malinese singer
Amy Sacko. Tickets €12 - 20
13 20:15 Rock. K’s Choice. After taking a TOG Venues
break for 6 years, this Belgian
band is once again playing its AAM Aboriginal Art Museum
hits like Not An Addict, Almost AC Acu AT Akademietheater
Happy and Busy. Tickets €30 BT Beatrix Theater CC Catharijneconvent
13 15:00 Folk. The Juglares y Reyes del RS CM C entral Museum DB dB’s
Vallenato perform traditional DK Domkerk EK Ekko
cumbia and vallenato folk music GK Geertekerk GM G eldmuseum
from Colombia’s Caribbean
coast. Tickets €10 - 17 HUA Het Utrechts Archief HV Het Vechthuis
17 21:00 Funk. Trinidad-born poet, RS HW H et Werftheater IC Instituto Cervantes
musician and novelist Anthony JU Jaarbeurs Utrecht JK Jacobikerk
Joseph plays ‘funk poetry’, a mix LK Lutherse kerk
of spoken word, voodoo funk MCM Musical Clock Museum
and bits of free jazz à la John NK Nicolaikerk PK Pieterskerk
Coltrane. Tickets €10 - 17 RM Railway Museum RS Rasa
18 20:15 Jazzpop. Wouter Hamel. After TOG STP Schiller Theater Place Royale
continuous touring for three SJ Sju Jazzpodium SO Sonnenborgh
years this Dutch musician still SG Stadion Galgewaard SU Stadsschouwburg Utrecht
has energy left for another TDP Theater De Paardenkathedraal
complete tour. Tickets €15 TK Theater Kikker TDH Tivoli De Helling
20 20:15 Pop. Kim Wilde, Come Out & TOG TOG Tivoli Oudegracht VH Voordorphallen
Play Live Tour. Listen to her hits VC Vorstelijk Complex
Kids In America, Cambodia, VL Vredenburg Leeuwenbergh
Chequered Love and Love VLR Vredenburg Leidsche Rijn
Blonde. Tickets €28 WK Willibrordkerk ZT Zimihc Theater Winter 2010 - 2011

16 Culture & Events
Classical music venues Classical & Opera
Dom Church (Domkerk) B-2, Domplein, www.dom- Utrecht’s Dom Church has offered a free concert
every Saturday at 15:30 since 1971. QOpen Sat 15:30 22 20:00 Classical music. Leipziger VL
Streichquartett plays Schubert
- 16:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun. TJENG (Rosamunde), Janácek and
Jacobikerk A-1, St Jacobsstraat 171, tel. (+31) 302 Mendelssohn. Tickets €28 - 35
31 78 62, The original Jacobikerk had 22 15:30 Classical music. J. S. Bach. DK
its origins in the 10th century, but the current Gothic church Donation asked
was built in the 13th century and is now a venue for classical 24 20:00 Opera. Opera Trionfo plays SU
music concerts. Mirandolina. Charming, funny
Lutheran Church (Lutherse kerk) B-3, Hamburger- opera, composed by Bohuslav
straat 9. The oldest part of the Lutheran Church is the former Martinů (1890-1959) from the
chapel of the Ursula monastery dating back to 1412. Today Czech Republic. Tickets €20 - 24
the church functions as an ideal stage for classical music 27 20:15 Classical music. Il Suonar GK
concerts. Q TJUG Parlante plays J.S. Bach ‘Kunst
St. Nicholas’ Church (Nicolaikerk) B-4, Nicolaas- der Fuge’
kerkhof 9, tel. (+31) 302 31 57 34, www.nicolaikerk. 28 20:15 Classical music. Combattimento VL
nl. This church has two monumental organs and an incredible Consort Amsterdam. Music:
Hemony carillon in its tower. Most concerts are held here on Bach, Fasch, van Wassenaer.
Saturday nights by candle light. Tickets are available half an Tickets €7 - 29
hour before scheduled concerts at the entrance of the church. 29 20:00 Opera. Nationale Reisopera SU
Q TJULEG plays La Voix Humaine and
L’Heure Espagnole. Tickets
St. Peter’s Church (Pieterskerk) B-2, Pieterskerkhof €32 - 36
3. The Pieterskerk is one of the oldest churches in Utrecht 29 15:30 Classical music. J. S. Bach. DK
and it’s currently used by a Walloon congregation. It’s also Donation asked
occasionally a venue for concerts. 29 20:00 Piano. Michael Kieran Harvey. VL
St. Willibrord’s Church (Willibrordkerk) B-2, Australian winner of the Franz
Minrebroederstraat 21, tel. (+31) 302 31 32 17, www. Liszt Piano competition. Each Sunday at 14:00 a concert is Beethoven's Hammerklavier-
held at this church. The concerts usually include organists, sonate and the Sonata from
ensembles, choirs, music students or professional musicians. Liszt. Tickets €20
A small donation is asked to cover the costs of the concert Feb
and to support the maintenance of the building. QOpen Sun 4 20:30 Ragazze Quartet. Four women TK
14:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat. JG play works by Anton Webern,
Gyorgy Kurtag and Philip Glass.
Tickets €14.50
Classical & Opera 4 20:15 Classical music. Radio
Kamer Filharmonie, Cappella

Amsterdam. Bach - Cantate

Dec ‘Hercules auf dem Scheidewege’
Date Time Event Venue BWV213 and Händel. Tickets
23 19:30 The Dutch Bach Club. Tickets VLR €23 - 29
€26 - 33 5 15:30 Classical music. G.A. Rossini, DK
Jan Petite Messe. Donation asked
1 15:30 Classical music. J. S. Bach - Hohe DK 11 20:15 Classical music. Radio
Messe. Donation asked Filharmonisch Orkest, Arturo
7 20:15 Piano concert. Radio VLR Muruzabal, cello. Stravinsky
Filharmonisch Orkest. Nicholas - Scherzo à la Russe, Kabalevski
Angelich, piano. Rachmaninov - Celloconcert Nr. 2, Tchaikovsky
- Pianoconcert nr. 3; Roslavets, – Swan Lake. Tickets €23 - 29
Prokofiev. Tickets €23 - 29 12 15:30 Classical music. J. S. Bach. DK
8 15:30 Classical music. J. S. Bach. DK Donation asked
Donation asked 13 16:00 Violin. Sophie Gent LK
14 20:15 Pianoconcert. Radio Kamer VLR 14 20:00 Opera. St. Internationale SU
Filharmonie. Ronald Brautigam, Opera Producties plays ‘Die
piano, Borodin/Glazoenov Fledermaus’. Tickets €36 - 40
- Petite Suite, Auerbach - 19 20:00 Piano. Martyn van den Hoek & VL
Serenade for a Melancholic Sea, Michael Lewin. Franz Liszt and
Brahms - Pianoconcert nr. 2. Louis Gottschalk. Tickets €20
Tickets €23 - 29 19 15:30 Classical music. JM. Vulpius & DK
15 15:30 Classical music. J. S. Bach. DK M. Praetorius, Deutsche Messe.
Donation asked Donation asked
15 10:00- Bach Day LK & 20 15:00 Piano. Noord Nederlands VL
17:00 GK Orkest. Lucas Jussen, piano.
21 20:15 Classical music. Groot JK Rachmaninov Pianoconcert Nr.
Omroepkoor, conductor Sigvards 2, Borodin Ouverture Prins Igor,
Klava. Music: Schnittke - Drei Tchaikovsky - Symfonie Nr. 5.
geistliche Gesänge, Arvo Pärt Tickets €16 - 19.50
– Triodion, Rachmaninov 25 20:00 Classical music. Aurelien Delage VL
– Vespers. Tickets €23 - 29

Utrecht In Your Pocket

Culture & Events 17

Classical & Opera Exhibitions

25 20:15 Classical music. Radio VLR Until May 2011: Breaking with Tradition. Cobra and
Filharmonisch Orkest, Glorious Aboriginal art. This exhibition is part of the Holland Art
Percussion. Goebaidoelina - Cities 2009 - 2010 programme. The AAMU has received
Glorious Percussion, Tchaikovsky works on loan from the Stedelijk Museum Schiedam, the
- Symfonie Nr. 6 ‘Pathétique’. Cobra Museum of Modern Art in Amstelveen, Museum
Tickets €7 - 29 Ludwig in Cologne and various private collections. This
26 15:30 Classical music. J. S. Bach & F. DK exhibition also marks the AAMU’s 10th anniversary and
Liszt. Donation asked offers a broader exploration of what it means to be an
26 20:00 Classical music. Camerata VL artist: how artists develop an individual style, break away
Trajectina, Treasures of Calvinist from group processes and liberate themselves from old
Music. Tickets €14 - 23 traditions and firmly entrenched ideas AAM
Mar Until 30 January 2011:
1 20:15 Classical music. Capilla Flamenca PK Rietveld’s Universe
4 20:30 Raga. Ravi Shankar hails Nayan RS
Ghosh as one of the current points out that Utrecht
masters of Hindustani classical architect and design-
music. Ghosh’s colourful and er Gerrit Th. Rietveld
melodic sitar playing brings out (1888 - 1964) designed
the depth and true spirit of the much more than his
raga. Tickets €10 - 17 classic Red-Blue chair
5 20:00 Piano and soprano. Barbara VL and the famous Riet-
Hannigan and Reinbert de veld Schröder House.
Leeuw. Tickets €19 - 24 Rietveld created more
5 15:30 Classical music. Daan Manneke DK than 100 buildings and
and Maarten Kooij. Free many pieces of furni-
entrance, donation asked ture. By comparing him Rietveld Schröder House
6 20:15 Classical music. Budapest VLR and his work with famous Photo by Ernst Moritz
Festival Orchestra, conductor contemporaries like Wright and Mies van der Rohe, the
Iván Fischer. Petra Lang, creative genius of Rietveld is set in a new light CM
soprano. Music: Wagner Until 30 December 2011: Utrecht’s Dreams of Rome.
- Siegfried Idyll; Ouverture A presentation of a collection of Old Masters from 1450
Tannhäuser; Uit Tannhaüser:
Bacchanalia uit ‘Venusberg’; - 1700. This exhibition shows how Utrecht’s 16th-century
Uit Gotterdammerung: painters were inspired by their Italian counterparts – a
Siegfrieds Rheinfahrt, Siegfrieds process that eventually led to the rise of 17th-century
Trauermarsch and ‘Starke Dutch Masters such as Rembrandt, Vermeer and Frans
Scheite schichtet mir dort’. Hals. Long before Dutch painting blossomed in towns
Tickets €32 - 39.50 such as Amsterdam and Haarlem, Utrecht was the centre
11 20:15 Classical music. Radio Kamer VLR for painting in the Northern Netherlands CM
Filharmonie, conductor Otto Until 28 February 2011: SingSong, Treasures from
Tausk, Viviane Hagner, violin. the Forbidden City is the crowning achievement of a
Music: Chin – Violin. Ligeti three-year joint restoration venture between the Palace
- Concert Românesc, Yun Museum of the Forbidden City (Beijing) and Museum
- Symfonie Nr. 2. Tickets €23 - 29 Speelklok. It offers visitors a peek behind the scenes
12 15:30 Classical music. J. S. Bach. Free DK of the cultural exchanges between Beijing and Utrecht.
entrance, donation asked SingSong displays a selection of clocks representing
19 15:30 Classical music. Gregorian & F. DK the most important objects from the Qing dynasty, a
Couperin. Donation asked period which formed a milestone in the history of Chinese
21 20:15 Classical music. Collegium Vocale DK antique clocks. Tickets €9, children 4 - 12 €5 MCM
Gent, Philippe Herreweghe
Until April 2011: Space Images is a collection of photos
taken with the best possible telescopes brought together
in one exhibiton SO
Until 29 April 2011: Exhibition Treasures from Utrecht’s
St. Paul’s Abbey. You’ll find traces of five centuries of
monastic life in the building and its surroundings, despite
the fact that the monastery was closed in the 16th cen-
tury. The exhibition displays precious handwritten docu-
ments from the rediscovered library of St. Paul’s Abbey.
These and other treasures from this Utrecht abbey shed
new light on monastic life and the significance of this
cloistered community HUA
Until 13 March 2011: Rail Tracks Over Sea is the name
of this exhibition which illustrates the history of the com-
bined boat/railway connection between the Netherlands
and England. Since 1875 people have been moving
overseas. Pay a visit to this exhibition and discover why.
10:00 - 17:00 RM
The talented Ragazze Quartet will perform on February 4
at Theater Kikker Winter 2010 - 2011

18 Culture & Events
Theatres Ballet, dance & Theatre
Beatrix Theater B-4, Jaarbeursplein 6a (Utrecht-
City), tel. (+31) 307 99 07 99, www.beatrixtheater.
nl. The Beatrix Theater is one of the most visited places Jan
in Utrecht due to the fact that the King of Dutch Musicals, 13 20:00 Dance. Dansgroep Amsterdam SU
plays Bullet Proof Mamma.
Joop van den Ende, has chosen it as a home base. It’s Tickets €17 - 21
also a good place for watching plays and concerts. Q 14, 21:00 Dance. Giula Mureddu performs TK
TJHAULKXW 15 Prossimo. Tickets €14.50
dB’s B-4, Rondom 100 (Utrecht-Area), tel. (+31) 302 93 18, 20:00 Visual theatre. Zimmermann & SU
82 09, dB’s is a place in Utrecht where 19 De Perrot, Groupe Acrobatique
dozens of bands practice making music in seventeen studios. de Tanger performs Chouf
Foundation Ruis manages an independent pop podium with Ouchouf. Ten male and two
an (inter)national live programme which varies from modest female Moroccan acrobats.
singer-songwriters to hellish metal, and everything in-be- Tickets €16 - 20
tween. You can discover bands for a small amount of money 20 20:00 Dance. Danstheater Aya plays SU
here, before they become big. Q AEG Venus. Tickets €16
Huis aan de Werf A-3, Boorstraat 107, tel. (+31) 302 21 20:30 Dance. Finalists of ‘So You Think VLR
31 53 55, Huis en Festival a/d You Can Dance’
Werf is a production house and festival in one. Huis a/d Werf 22 20:00 Drums. Van Kampen plays SU
invites artists to create performances, carry out research or Muchomenos. Founded in
work in residence and for 10 days each year, Festival a/d Werf 1982 as an expression of a
offers a platform from which they can present their work. dissatisfaction with traditional
Rasa A-1, Pauwstraat 13a, tel. (+31) 302 31 60 40, pop instruments such as guitars
and keyboards. Tickets €19 - 23 Tickets on sale Wed - Fri 15:00 - 18:00. 27 20:00 Dance. ‘GAP’ consists of SU
Schiller Theater Place Royale B-2, Minrebroeder- six leading dancers and the
straat 11, tel. (+31) 302 31 93 80, www.schillertheater. young Bulgarian pianist and
nl. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart played here at the age of 10 composer Dimitar Bodurov. His
and generations of Utrecht residents have begun their danc- compositions are performed on
ing careers at the Schiller. Today, ballroom dancing has been classical as well as East European
replaced by Argentine tango. Q TJ instruments. Tickets €18
Stadsschouwburg Utrecht C-2, Lucas Bolwerk 24, tel. 28 20:30 Kathak dance. Aditi Mangaldas RS
(+31) 302 30 20 23, is a renowned Indian kathak
The City Theatre was completed in 1941 by the well-known dancer. Tickets €12 - 20
Dutch architect Willem Dudok. Dance, ballet, music, theatre, 29 21:00 Flamenco. Elsa Rovayo, La Shica. RS
cabaret, musicals and other concerts are held here nearly Madrid-based singer and dancer
every day in two halls. Q PTJAULEGKX La Shica combines flamenco,
Theater Kikker B-2, Ganzenmarkt 14, tel. (+31) 302 31 hiphop, reggae and bossanova.
96 66, Theatre Kikker specialises Tickets €10 - 17
in contemporary theatre, modern dance, youth theatre and Feb
new music. Q JUEGX 1 20:30 Dance. Don’t Hit Mama plays SU
Hometime Attack. Tickets €14
The Wharf Theatre (Het Werftheater) B-3, Oude- 1, 2 20:30 Dance. RAZ/Hans Tuerlings plays TK
gracht aan de Werf 60, tel. (+31) 302 31 54 40, www. Jeden Tag wird es besser, Gut Het Werftheater is a private theatre run by wird es nie. Tickets €16.50
volunteers. The intimate, but tiny wharf cellar offers a variety 4 19:30 Dance. In Danza Indonesia, six of RS
of activities for both adults and children. Q TJG Java’s most prominent dancers
Vorstelijk Complex A-4, Prinses Christinalaan 1 and choreographers search for
(Utrecht-Area), tel. (+31) 643 16 81 77, www.vorstelijk- a new physical language based The Vorstelijk Complex offers a theatre hall which on traditional Javanese dance.
provides space for more than 220 visitors. Q TULG Tickets €12 - 20
Zimihc Theater C-1, Bouwstraat 55, tel. (+31) 302 72 8 20:00 Dance. Emio Greco / PC plays SU
34 55, Low threshold theatre in a small, You Para /Diso. Tickets €18
snug venue. Q TJ 22 20:00 Dance. Peeping Tom performs SU
32, Rue Vandenbranden. Their
performance is a combination
of theatre, dance and music.
Tickets €16 - 20
24 20:00 Dance. Nederlands Dans SU
Theater performs Entwine.
Seven strange personas sketch
a surreal world to the exciting
music of Philip Glass. Tickets
€26 - 30
27 20:00 Dance. Iberica de Danza SU
performs Iberica Magica. They
combine classical Spanish ballet,
flamenco, folk and modern
dance as well as a wide range of
dance cultures from the Iberian
Peninsula. Tickets €18 - 22
Dutch rockers Krach will perform at Ekko on February 11

Utrecht In Your Pocket

Culture & Events 19

Ballet, dance & Theatre Christmas events

Mar Dec
8 20:00 Dance. Conny Janssen Danst SU 18 10:00 Every winter the Dutch Railway RM
performs Zout. Tickets €17 - 21 - 31 - Museum is transformed into a
19 20:00 Dance. Compagnie Thor SU 17:00 Winter Station. Huge christmas
performs To The Ones I Love. trees, a nostalgic merry-go-round,
The visual aspect is one of its live music, films, storytellers,
key attractions. Nine dancers thousands of decorated lights and
from different backgrounds a covered icetrack are the main
dance on a white stage. The highlights of this winter wonder-
artistic director is ‘looking for a
confrontation between old and land. Daily performances by pro-
new culture.’ Dressed only in fessional acrobats and amateur
grey pants the dancers move all street performers are also part
over the stage, accompanied by of the experience. Closed on 25
the timeless music of Bach and and 26 December.
other great composers. Tickets 21 12:00 Circus. Cascade. Ever y thing SU
€17 - 21 - 30 15:00 moves in this action packed
20:00 Christmas circus. Without any
animals, but with lots of thrills,
live-music, poetry and lots of
other unexpected, international
known artists. Tickets €15 - 30
21 Winter Boulevard. A cosy square JU
- 31 where Dutch chefs create various
stunning winter dishes, such as
Dutch sausage with a typical stew.
Traditional winter refreshment
stalls will, of course, be part of
the occasion.
22 16:00 Iceshow. Energia. JU
- 30 20:00
25 10:00- Kerstland (Christmas Land) Utre- VH
- 30 18:00 cht. During the six days between
Christmas and New Years, the
Murder will perform an acoustic set on January 22 Veemarkt halls in Utrecht are
transformed into the Nether-
lands’ largest indoor (and heated)
Special events amusement park. For the 14th
year in a row, children (and their
parents) can enjoy circus Bavaria,
Utrecht 2018: Can- a fun-fair, shows, a market, a kid’s
didate for European corner and cafés in a covered area
Capital of Culture of no less than 12,000m2. After
B-2, Kromme Nieuwe-
paying the entrance fee (€15 for
gracht 70, tel. (+31)
adults; €13 for children from the
302 39 38 90, Athens had it
ages of 2 to 12), all attractions
first and Paris and Berlin have had the title since then.
are free.
In fact, since 1985, 40 European cities have been Euro-
pean Capitals of Culture, including Amsterdam (1987)
and Rotterdam (2001). Utrecht is hoping to gain the title
in 2018, as the Netherlands would then be the cultural
centre of Europe for a year, together with Malta. Utrecht
is, however, not the only Dutch city which has applied for
candidacy for this prestigious title. Maastricht, Den Haag,
Leeuwarden and Brabantstad (a collaboration between
Breda, Eindhoven, Helmond, ’s-Hertogenbosch, Tilburg
and the Ommeland) have also thrown their hats in the
ring. All candidate cities have to submit a detailed cultural
plan called a bidbook. In August 2013 an international jury
will make the final decision. Until then Utrecht will keep
its fingers crossed for a positive result.

More culture and events at
Listen to Kasha Nasha’s Balkan beats on December 23 Winter 2010 - 2011

20 Where to stay
Cream of the crop Symbol key
Apollo Hotel Utrecht City Centre A-2, Vredenburg
14, tel. (+31) 302 33 12 32, www.apollohotelsresorts. P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
com/utrecht. If you’re looking for a hotel with a central C Swimming pool H Conference facilities
location in the inner city, this four-star hotel only a stone’s
throw from Hoog Catharijne is a good option. The spacious F Fitness centre U Facilities for the disabled
bathrooms, the beautiful location, the stunning views from 6 Pets allowed L Guarded parking
the rooms on higher floors and the comfortable sitting corner
all compensate for the lack of other amenities such as a K Restaurant D Sauna
mini-bar, a restaurant or a bar. Don’t fiddle around too much W Free wireless internet
with the somewhat complicated remote control or you might
find an extra charge of at least €15 for pay-TV on your bill.
That’s the excuse we gave our boss anyway. Q90 rooms
(17 singles €79 - 219, 35 doubles €79 - 219, 4 triples €79 Park Plaza Utrecht B-4, Westplein 50 (Utrecht-City),
- 219, 34 suites €104 - 244). PJAW tel. (+31) 302 92 52 00, fax (+31) 302 92 51 99, www. Light sleepers had better book a room at
Carlton President B-3, Floraweg 25 (Utrecht-Area), the front of this four-star hotel, as the rear of the building
tel. (+31) 302 41 41 82, Carlton Presi- looks out over the busiest bit of railway in the Netherlands.
dent offers a lot of comfort for only a relatively small amount Perhaps that’s why the windows can’t be opened. No matter.
of money. Extremely friendly service, clean rooms, comfort- All 120 spacious rooms have air-conditioning. The rooms are
able beds, lots of extra amenities are all part and parcel of stylish and practical, especially the executive rooms on the
the experience. The terrace and the beautiful garden are first and second floors and the extensive breakfast with warm
extra perks for this four-star hotel located outside the city rolls and lots of fresh fruit is reason enough to stay the night.
centre. The interior of a number of rooms is a bit dated, but Q120 rooms. PTJHAFGKDXW
the general atmosphere is good and the Leisure Centre with
sauna, fitness room, whirlpool, solarium and Turkish bath is
excellent. Q164 rooms (148 doubles €90 - 129, 16 suites Mid-range
€140 - 179). THAUFLGKDXCW Bastion Hotel B-4, Mauritiuslaan 1 (Utrecht-Area), tel.
(+31) 302 87 14 00, fax (+31) 302 87 10 12, www.bas-
Court Hotel B-3, Korte Nieuwstraat 14, tel. (+31) 302 Bastion Utrecht is a clean and affordable hotel
33 00 33,, Sick of and despite the fact that it’s close to the busy A12 motorway,
those tiny shoebox hotel rooms in Amsterdam? In the heart its 80 standard rooms are completely insulated from the
of Utrecht you’ll find the attractively renovated four-star Court noise. But don’t expect any flashy design elements. Bastion
Hotel. For centuries this building served as a courthouse, but is popular due to its simplicity. Breakfast is served just as it
now it’s one of the city’s best design hotels. The 27 rooms should, but the lunch and dinner menus are somewhat limited.
are trendy with stylish interiors and all have a unique view of If you don’t like the enormous parking rates in the centre of
the old inner city. The large rooms with high-ceilings on the top Utrecht, you can park for free in Bastion’s nearly completed
floor are especially good and are highly recommended. Q27 private car park. The express tram will take you to the heart
rooms (27 doubles €99 - 200). TJAKXW of Utrecht within 10 minutes. Q146 rooms (146 doubles
€90 - 160). HALGXW
Grand Hotel Karel V A-3, Geertebolwerk 1, tel. (+31)
302 33 75 55, fax (+31) 302 33 75 00, Hotel Badhu (Arabisch eten en slapen) C-3, Willem
If you saw pictures of this monumental complex of buildings, van Noortplein 19 (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 72 04
you’d hardly believe that this five-star hotel is located in the 44, fax (+31) 302 71 34 20,, www.badhu.
city centre of Utrecht. Each of the building’s two wings, both nl. The only negative aspect of this hidden gem is that it only
the Roman and the Napoleonic, has its own charm and pre- has eight rooms. Otherwise, the Arabic-looking Hotel Badhu
vious guests such as Holy Roman Emperor Charles V never is our first thought when choosing accommodation in the
had any complaints. Grand Hotel Karel V manages to create city. Every detail in this stylish old bathhouse dating back to
a perfect symbiosis between historical elements of style and 1927 has been carefully thought out and it really is a feast
modern conveniences in an elegant way. The 121 rooms are for the eyes. The spacious rooms each have their own colour-
spacious and equipped with everything you’d expect from scheme in either silver, red, purple, white, gold, blue, brown
such a hotel. Exit the gate of this 14th century oasis and you’ll or green and since the end of 2010, guests can also use
once again find yourself in the bustling centre of present-day the hotel’s authentic hammam. Expect genuine hospitality,
Utrecht. Q121 rooms (10 suites €199 - 358, 12 single ex- especially when the staff deliver your breakfast to your room.
ecutive €119 - 258, 2 single superior €149 - 298, 18 deluxe Q8 rooms (8 doubles €109 - 139). AGW
€154 - 298, 37 superior €169 - 318, 42 executive doubles
€139 - 278). PTJHA6UFLKDCW Ibis Utrecht B-4, Bizetlaan 1 (Utrecht-Area), tel. (+31)
302 91 03 66, This completely
Mitland Hotel E-3, Ariënslaan 1 (Utrecht-City), tel. smoke-free hotel may not be located in Utrecht’s best neigh-
(+31) 302 71 58 24, Guests who like bourhood, but the Ibis Utrecht is still a good business hotel
nature will feel right at home here. This hotel has a delightful and a fine place to spend the night. Most of the 80 rooms are
setting in a green area by the edge of a lake teeming with somewhat small, and sometimes a bit thin-walled, but at least
water lilies and bird life. The rooms are spacious and fitted they’re clean. The extensive breakfast, the helpful staff, free
with modern conveniences and the staff is friendly and helpful. parking and the use of a nearby swimming pool and tennis
The indoor bowling alley and alcoholic drinks are, however, courts are some of the hotel’s advantages. The beds creak
rather pricey. Ask for a room with a view of the forest. A mere a bit, so you might want to make a reservation elsewhere for
250m from the hotel, you can take a cheap bus into the city your honeymoon. The historical centre is a 20-minute walk
centre. Q135 rooms (131 doubles €135, 1 suite €175, 3 away or you could take the tram. Q84 rooms (84 doubles
junior suites €135). PHA6UFLKDCW €75 - 125). PHA6UGKW

Utrecht In Your Pocket

Where to stay 21

NH Centre Utrecht Hotel B-2, Janskerkhof 10,

tel. (+31) 302 31 31 69, fax (+31) 302 31 01 48, Budget, De Admiraal D-3, Admiraal van Gentstraat 11 (Utrecht-
The biggest advantage of this recently renovated hotel, is City), tel. (+31) 302 75 85 00, fax (+31) 302 75 85
its central location in the heart of the city. But bear in mind 01,,
that this historic building from 1870 is surrounded by dozens First of all, De Admiraal is a very friendly place. This is chiefly
of pubs and restaurants, which can be either a blessing or a because the owners live in the hotel and it’s as if you’re
curse depending on your point of view. In any case, the gor- staying in their home, but with the privacy and professional
geous beds with their multiple pillows make this three-star care you would expect from a hotel. De Admiraal has four
hotel worth a visit. Q47 rooms (47 doubles €90 - 180). double bedrooms and four single bedrooms. Most have en
TJAGKXW suite facilities and four of them have a private balcony with a
roof overlooking the spacious and lovely secluded garden of
NH Utrecht De Luxe B-4, Jaarbeursplein 24 (Utrecht- this 19th century mansion. Q8 rooms (4 singles €73 - 93,
City), tel. (+31) 302 97 79 77, fax (+31) 302 97 79 4 doubles €113). PAW
99, If you’re on a business trip, the
NH Utrecht De Luxe is probably the best choice in town. Hotel Oorsprongpark D-3, F.C. Dondersstraat 12
This gigantic tower block is situated right next to the central (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 71 63 03, fax (+31) 302 71
train station and straight across from the most important 46 19,,
conference centre in the Netherlands. Each of its 276 rooms No less than 38 rooms are available in this simple and sober
is spacious with wonderful box spring beds, clean bathrooms hotel. Everything is small, from the bathrooms to the halls;
and modern conveniences and the 19th and 20th floors from the bedrooms to the lobby. Thankfully the breakfast is
provide beautiful views of the city. Unfortunately, the design of a different calibre. Plenty of fresh food will give you a brisk
of the hallways seems rather dated and a bit old-fashioned, and energetic start to your day. This place is less suitable
but the rooms are comfortable, which is, after all, the most for people who travel in a group, as there is no communal
important aspect of a hotel. Q276 rooms (272 doubles €99 space to sit and have a chat. Q38 rooms (17 singles €75,
- 165, 4 suites). PTJHAUFGKXW 21 doubles €85). JA6W

Sandton Malie Hotel D-3, Maliestraat 2 (Utrecht-

City), tel. (+31) 302 31 64 24, fax (+31) 302 34 06 Apartment rental
61,, Located a D & D Shortstay D-4, Wolder Heukelslaan 68b (Utrecht-
short distance from the city centre is the classically designed City), tel. (+31) 302 51 11 39, www.ddshortstayutrecht.
Sandton Malie Hotel. Despite the fact that the majority of its nl. This central location offers you a comfortable stay in a
45 rooms are somewhat small, we still highly recommend this building situated in the Oudwijk Quarter within walking distance
place. Upon entering, you’ll immediately notice the spacious of Utrecht’s highlights. The non-smoking apartment is on the
lounge and informal bar. The biggest surprise can be found second and third floor and is suitable for couples and families
on the other side of the building where the enormous city up to four people. On the second floor guests will find a fully
garden becomes any hotel guest’s favourite. Unfortunately equipped furnished dining room and a modern kitchen with a
some bathrooms are so small that the door opens against veranda and the toilet and study-room are also located here. A
the wash basin, but the collective balcony is an ideal meeting floor higher are the bedrooms, one of which has a balcony, and
point and a good place to have a chat with your neighbours. a fully renovated bathroom. Wi-fi and paid parking are available.
Q42 rooms (42 doubles €89 - 150). HXW Q1 room (1 apartment 100 - 200). TJAGW
Havaa Appartementen,
Boats The apartments are located
Apokalyps - In de Vecht B-3, Vechtdijk (Utrecht-Area). on the Plompetorengracht, while its studios and penthouse
For a unique and not too expensive experience take a 10- are located on Korte Jansstraat in the historical centre of
minute bike ride out to the River Vecht. You’ll discover a cosy Utrecht. You can expect luxurious and fully-furnished apart-
room and a friendly host on this houseboat with the slightly ments with doorman service, state-of-the art fitness centres
scary name of Apokalyps. A family basically offers you a room and indoor private parking in a prestigious high-rise apart-
in their floating home, where you feel more like a visiting rela- ment building designed by renowned architect Cees Dam. Q
tive, than a guest at a B&B. The bathroom is clean and tidy 7 apartments (studios €89, apartments €129). JW
with all manner of personal care products provided and the
room is equipped with TV and an internet connection. There Studio Zaagmolen C-3, Zaagmolenkade 49 (Utrecht-
are also boats with prostitutes in the neighbourhood should City), tel. (+31) 618 53 18 26, info@studiozaagmolen.
you want to step out for a different type of hospitality in the nl, Studio Sawmill is a modern
evening. Q1 room (1 doubles €50). 6W apartment in a residential neighbourhood close to the centre
of Utrecht. It’s situated on the ground floor of a house that
Buurboot La Luna A-4, Biltonkade 152 (Utrecht-City), was built in 1910. In 2008 it was completely renovated and
tel. (+31) 307 85 30 66,, www. the 65m2 apartment also includes a fully equipped kitchen, You can’t leave the Netherlands without hav- garden, veranda and a sun room. The entire apartment is
ing stayed on a boat at least one night. The BuurBoot is furnished with Dutch Design Classics and the shower is
a luxurious houseboat moored in Lombok, a multicultural decorated with mosaic tiles from England. Wireless internet,
suburb, close to the city centre of Utrecht. It’s equipped TV, radio, smoke sensor, alarm system and ventilation system
with modern amenities including a large living room, kitchen, are all included in the package. Q 1 apartment (€150/night
two bedrooms with king size beds, bathroom with shower for 2 people, €750/week and €2,500/month). TJGW
and bathtub and separate toilets. Free wi-fi and an internet
computer are also available on board. Located on the water
side of the Oude Rijn you’ll be surrounded by the sounds of
More hotels at
silence and nature. Q2 rooms (1 triple €80 - 135, 1 apart-
ment €150). TGDW Winter 2010 - 2011

22 Where to stay
Chez Marianne B-3, Haverstraat 10, tel. (+31) 653
Bed & Breakfast 39 44 77,, www.chezmarianne.
344 Aan de Gracht B-4, Oudegracht 344, tel. nl. This guesthouse is ideally situated in the Museum Quar-
(+31) 302 96 26 06,, ter of the city centre. Inside this historical monument from This bed and breakfast apart- 1644 you’ll find a fully furnished, recently renovated, spa-
ment is located on the ground floor of an historic canal house cious apartment. A separate guest toilet, private entrance
on the Oudegracht, in the relatively quiet, museum quarter. and garden, kitchen with dishwasher and a living room with
The 40m2 apartment includes a fully equipped kitchen with wood-burning stove are all major draws. Q2 rooms (2 apart-
dining table, shower, washbasin, bedroom with double box- ments €75). JW
spring, toilet and a small living room with doors to a terrace.
Q 1 apartment (€90 for one person, €110 for two people). Cosy Corner A-4, Laan van Nieuw Guinea 37 (Utrecht-
Breakfast: €10. TJW City), tel. (+31) 626 93 64 97,, Many Dutch B&Bs have
Achter het Witte Huis B-3, Prinses Beatrixlaan 16 names that hardly do justice to the place, but the Cosy Corner
(Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 89 20 03, www.achter- is a pleasant exception. Its spacious, clean room is more This place is a little paradise on earth. If reminiscent of a small apartment due to the hallway and the
you like quiet, freedom and nature this is the B&B for you. kitchenette. Other perks include the king-size bed and a single
Achter het Witte Huis (Behind the White House) is located bed, each with good mattresses, the tasty breakfast, proper
exactly halfway between the bustling city centre and the lighting, wireless internet and free parking right out front. At
calm outskirts. Enjoy a massive room, as well as an enormous first glance the old working-class neighbourhood may seem
garden, a comfortable seating area, a cosy eating corner, free a bit shabby, but you can also view it as an ideal opportunity
parking, the use of guest bicycles and your own terrace. The to see how ‘normal’ Dutch people live. Q1 room (1 double
friendly owners are wonderful and you can have an excellent €50 - 75). TGW
breakfast with fresh eggs from free-range chickens. Q (1
double €75 - 85). Dales Gast-en-Verblijf B-3, Lange Nieuwstraat 22,
tel. (+31) 302 31 56 05,, www.
Always Good B-4, Tolsteegsingel 33, tel. (+31) 614 55 Dales Gast-en-Verblijf is a unique B&B
55 24, The linguistic geniuses where you can choose from three rooms, each decorated in
who rent out the two rooms in this monumental town house a different style. On the ground floor of this spacious mansion
receive their guests in every language imaginable including you’ll find an apartment with medieval plaster ceilings, old
Japanese! The bigger room at the rear of the building is our window shutters and a pine wooden floor. The studio on the
favourite, partly because of the gorgeous double bed, the second floor is a comfortable room with oak beams and a
balcony and the large bathroom with bathtub. The room at pretty view of the city. Aan de Werf is the largest apartment
the front is cheaper and therefore has fewer amenities. Overall and it can accommodate as many as four people. It’s located
this place is unique, personal and great value-for-money. You in the yard cellar on the old canal and boasts its own terrace
also get stunning views of the park. Q2 rooms (2 doubles on the water. Q3 rooms (1 double €95, 1 suite €105, 1
€85 - 110). JW apartment €115). JA6W

B&B Vechtoever B-3, Vechtoever 33 (Utrecht-Area), De Dromerij A-4, Lessinglaan 2 (Utrecht-City), tel.
tel. (+31) 628 44 52 01, B&B (+31) 624 70 62 16,, w w w.
Vechtoever is located by the River Vecht on the edge of the Only one room is available in De Dromerij, a
city and it offers splendid views of the Dutch countryside from small bed and breakfast in the quiet Oog in Al neighborhood,
its rooms and rooftop terrace. Housed in a modern private not far from the lively Lombok Quarter. The room has a king
building near the Vechtse Park, its upper floor guest room is size double bed, a TV and a balcony as well as a private
sparsely decorated and has twin beds. Q1 room (1 double bathroom with double shower and toilet. Q1 room (1 single
€70 - 80). T6LGX €85). Breakfast: €7.50. XW

Carla’s Smaak C-3, Draaiweg 97 (Utrecht-City), tel.

(+31) 624 43 66 32, Owner Coming soon
Carla is an incredibly charming host who treats her guests
with homemade biscuits and an organic breakfast. Despite B&B Gregorius B-3, Nieuwegracht 21, www.
the fact that the terraced house doesn’t look very special The Gregorius is located in one of the
from the outside, its comforts will become apparent once most beautiful parts of the inner city, close to the wharf
you’re inside. The apartment stretches across the entire cellars on the Nieuwegracht. It used to be a school, but
upper floor and consists of a spacious bedroom, a sitting after a thorough renovation it will be a B&B with three
corner and a modern bathroom. Q1 room (1 apartment lovely rooms. All rooms will have comfortable double beds,
€70 - 100). GW en suite bathrooms, televisions, internet, and sunny,
private, West-facing balconies. Opening in April 2011.
Chambres en Ville B-3, Zuilenstraat 10, tel. (+31) 302 Q 3 rooms (€95 - 145).
36 43 73,, www.chambres-en- Chambres-en-Ville has a French name, but it offers Hotel De Dom Domstraat 4. Utrecht has a chronic
Dutch comfort in a calm environment. The friendly hostess, lack of hotel rooms. Hotel Dom will, in all probability,
owner Ida van der Wal, presides over two luxurious rooms with become the newest improvement to the inner city. 11
new beds, fine linen, a TV, music system and comfortable suites, two of which will have private rooftop gardens, an
sofas and chairs. The first room is located on the second floor à la carte restaurant, a lounge/lobby and a cocktail bar
of the building and consists of a large double bedroom with will be available to pamper the most demanding guests.
its own bathroom and a living room which includes a PC with According to the management, a ‘personal touch’ will
internet. The second room is also comfortable but smaller be the hotel’s biggest asset. Q 11 rooms (11 suites
with a double bedroom (22m2), writing desk and bathroom. €220 - €300).
Q2 rooms (2 doubles €100 - 140). JW

Utrecht In Your Pocket

Where to stay 23

Den Ulch B-5, Westerkade 8, tel. (+31) 302 40 06 96, Den Ulch, which
is located just outside the former Tolsteegpoort, got its name
from the 15th-century inn that once stood here and the current
B&B continues this age-old tradition of hospitality. The stylish
guest rooms are situated on the second floor and consist of
two double rooms with a shared bathroom, a breakfast room
and a terrace. All rooms overlook the Vaarse Rijn river and an
old farm. Q2 rooms (2 doubles €50 - 60). JG

Equipe B-4, Peltlaan 77 (Utrecht-Area), tel. (+31) 634

94 36 95. If you’re looking for a simple room with outdated
furniture, Equipe is the place for you. The friendly owner
rents out no less than three simple, almost Spartan rooms
in this terraced house. The rooms vary in price and size, but
they share a lack of finery and frills. Don’t expect an artsy
interior or any other such embellishments. You’ll sleep and
sit on ordinary IKEA furniture here, but Equipe is perfect if
you’re looking for an affordable place to spend the night.
Q3 rooms. GW
Gastenkamer Gaardbrug B-3, Oudegracht 186bis,
tel. (+31) 302 74 68 09,, This large studio apartment is
on the ground level of a building overlooking the Oudegracht
and canal. It’s just around the corner from the Dom Tower and
a few minutes walk from the station. In other words, it’s got
a great location and it’s a much better option than staying
in a hotel. It’s also incredibly clean, quiet and offers cooking
facilities. Q 1 apartment (1 studio €85). JW

La Perle B-4, Twijnstraat 69, tel. (+31) 243 77 35 68,

Utrecht/. This spacious apartment is more reminiscent of
a French mansion than a Dutch inner city dwelling. The upper
two floors of this monumental late 17th-century building cater
to guests who enjoy a bit of luxury for a good price. A beautiful, Zara B-3, Herenweg 30 (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 642 99
spacious living room, a kitchen, a desk, wireless internet and 00 37. At Zara the gentle hostess ensures a friendly, Eastern
a stylish bathroom with bathtub are all included in the price. atmosphere in this typical Dutch terraced house. Through
Q2 rooms (2 apartments €115 - 175). JW the use of many stylish design elements, the two spacious
rooms radiate a lot of warmth. People who aren’t steady on
‘t Singelhuis B-4, Tolsteegsingel 44, tel. (+31) 306 91 their feet or are afraid of heights should probably give this
20 74, The friendly and flexible place a pass as the rooms are only accessible by two steep
owners of this historic building rent out two of its rooms. staircases. Newlyweds would also have a problem with the
On the first floor, at the rear, you’ll find a luxurious double single beds. Don’t worry if you hear a loud bang in the middle
bedroom, with private bathroom and a terrace. On the same of the night as the toilet seats are somewhat rebellious. Q2
floor, but at the front, you can rent a spacious two-person rooms (2 doubles €50 - 60). GW
apartment with two single beds. This bright room has its own
kitchen and bathroom. The beautiful beds are reason alone
to stay here and the heavy duvets and pillows could keep Hostels
you warm and toasty through a Siberian winter. Q2 rooms Hostel Strowis B-1, Boothstraat 8, tel. (+31) 302 38
(1 double €70, 1 apartment €85). JW 02 80,, You’ll discover
a true backpacker’s oasis in this 17th-century building in
Van Haver tot Gracht B-3, Haverstraat 35, tel. (+31) the middle of the centre. Strowis has clean and spacious
641 73 30 68,, www.van- dormitories with bunk beds spread out across three floors, Van Haver tot Gracht is an old romantic with clean showers and toilets. Private rooms are also avail-
55m2 apartment on the ground floor of this building. A two able. Strowis is equipped with all of the amenities a budget
person boxspring bed, a large living area with modern ame- traveller might desire including a kitchen, free lockers, wi-fi,
nities, a private terrace and a fully equipped kitchen are all liberal opening hours, bicycle rental for €7/day and extensive
included in the price. Q1 room (1 apartment €125). J information on the city and its surroundings. Try the all-you-
can-eat organic breakfast buffet for €7, after which you can
Villa Cornelia Bed & Breakfast D-3, MH Trompstraat relax outside with the other guests or in the large foyer which
7 (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 650 22 27 22, www.villa- has comfy chairs, books, a computer and a bar. Outside, the This B&B is housed in an attractive urban villa inviting garden is the perfect place to enjoy an organic draught
originally built in 1905 and is full of Art Deco design accents. beer. You might just forget that there’s still a whole city to be
It’s located on a quiet street in the middle of a residential area discovered. Reservations recommended. QOpen 08:00
a 15-minute walk from the city centre, yet close to nearby - 02:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00. 14-bed dorm €15.50/person,
motorways. Villa Cornelia offers a studio of two separate 8-bed dorm €16.50/person, 6-bed dorm €17.50/person,
elegantly furnished rooms. Digital TV and internet are also 4-bed dorm €18.50/person, doubles €60 - 70, triples €72.
available. Q1 room (1 triple €80 - 130). TLGXW JAGKW Winter 2010 - 2011

24 Restaurants
The Dutch lack a haute cuisine of their own and con-
sequently rely on the rest of the world for tasty food. Symbol key
Utrecht is no exception and it offers a wide array of ethnic
restaurants and eateries for all palates. It has, however, P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
also been a city of pub restaurants for a very long time,
where you can devour a steak for only €10. Of course, in E Live music S Take away
a student town like Utrecht you can still eat for very little, T Child friendly I Fireplace
but, thankfully, the past few years have given rise to a new
trend: more and more exclusive, upmarket restaurants X Smoking section U Facilities for the disabled
have opened their doors of late. If you wish to dine in style W Free wireless internet 6 Pets allowed
on quality food, but for affordable prices, you won’t be dis-
appointed. This is the Netherlands, after all, where people
demand the best for the smallest price possible.
At the station - Hoog Catharijne
Charlie Chiu’s A-3, Stationstraverse 2, tel. (+31) 302
Arabic 34 03 46,, Hoog
Badhu C-3, Willem van Noortplein 19, tel. (+31) 302 72 Catharijne shopping centre is a large receptacle of all sorts of
04 44, fax (+31) 302 71 34 20,, www. colourful characters, not to mention some undesirables. But Formerly a bathhouse, this art-deco style building have no fear. The homeless, junkies and alcoholics are also
has been transformed into a hip and stylish Arabic-style hotel entitled to a decent Asian meal every once in a while and you
and restaurant. You can lounge on the comfortable couches might just see one here at the station. The freshly prepared
from breakfast all the way through to Middle Eastern high tea, food tastes surprisingly good for McChinese, especially if
lunch and dinner. The staff is friendly and the portions are big, you consider that you can have a meal for only €5. QOpen
only the toilets leave a lot to be desired. The restaurant is 10:30 - 22:00, Thu 10:30 - 22:30, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun
located out of the city centre (about a 10-minute walk) but 11:00 - 22:00. (€5 - 8). TJ6UGK
is well worth it and after all the baklava and Turkish delight
the stroll will do you some good. Badhu is also scheduled De Tijd (Time) A-2, Stationshal 18, tel. (+31) 302 30
to open a hammam by the end of 2010. QOpen 11:00 42 11. People watching is one of Holland’s biggest hobbies,
- 24:00. TK especially while sitting at outdoor cafés. However, if it’s raining
outside De Tijd is a perfect alternative. You’ll recognise it by
Asian its cheap Gaudi-imitation tiles on the outside. You can quietly
study thousands of commuters, students, and other passers-
Charlie Chiu’s B-3, Zamenhofdreef 21 - 25 (Utrecht- by from the comfort of this American-style bar that serves
Area), tel. (+31) 302 61 09 28, In large portions of international food for reasonable prices.
China it’s quite acceptable that people take an English name
in addition to their Chinese surname, hence Charlie Chiu. In La Place A-2, Rijnkade 5, tel. (+31) 900 23 58 36 3,
1985, Charlie started the first Chinese fast food restaurant La Place is an average restaurant in the
in Europe - or so he claims. In all his restaurants, minimum V&D department store in the disconsolate Hoog Catharijne
waiting times and excellent quality are the most important indoor shopping centre. You’ll only discover why it’s worth a
requirements and this place is no exception. Apart from a visit once you’ve ascended five escalators. From the rooftop
multitude of simple, but freshly prepared Asian dishes, Charlie terrace you’ll behold a stunning view of Utrecht from above.
has also kept his Muslim clientele in mind. Four different types The food is nothing exciting, but decent enough. Pizzas
of sandwiches with 100% Halal ingredients are available. are made on the spot in a wood-fired oven and the salad
QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Thu 10:30 - 21:30, Sat 10:30 - 20:00, bar is impressive. It’s also only a two-minute walk from the
Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (€5 - 8). TK central station. QOpen 09:30 - 10:00, Mon 11:00 - 19:00,
Thu 09:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (€5 - 9).
Jasmijn & ik A-4, Kanaalstraat 219-221, tel. (+31) 302 PJAGBK
93 89 07,, An
immensely popular restaurant in the west of the city, this Wim’s Automatiek A-3, Stationstraverse 8, tel. (+31)
place classifies itself as ‘inspiring Asian’. It serves reasonably 302 31 33 17. This automat offers warm snacks. Apart
priced fusion dishes with wordy names like ‘The silky lake from from fries, it also sells other homemade Dutch food such as
Thailand’ and ‘Heavenly softness from Penang’ in a hip and poffertjes (mini-pancakes), oliebollen (deep-fried spherical
stylish Japanese-style atmosphere. Although the lyricism of doughnuts) and fresh stroopwafels (waffles). QOpen 10:00
the menu takes a little getting used to, the staff’s apparent - 18:30, Mon 11:00 - 18:30, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00
enthusiasm for what they serve is a welcome change from - 17:30. Closed Sun. TJ6U
the general level-headedness that seems to rule this country.
It has also opened a shop with all the ingredients and items
necessary for Asian recipes. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Chinese
Mon, Sun. (€14 - 19). PUBKS Paradijs A-1, Vredenburg 28, tel. (+31) 302 31 62 63.
Although it has the appearance of your average take away,
Opium B-1, Voorstraat 80, tel. (+31) 302 31 55 15, once you have a look at the extensive menu you know its This Asian restaurant has an dishes are anything but average. Whereas most Chinese
impressive interior that also includes a tranquil garden-like restaurants in the Netherlands are a funny mix of Westernised
area with goldfish. A mouth-watering menu of, amongst other Asian cuisine, this place serves the genuine article. Order a
things, Szechuan duck, Thai curry and hot chocolate pie with variety of authentic dim sum or a delicious char sew and
an Asian flare are all on offer. Unfortunately, style and good discover why locals believe that this is the only authentic
cuisine don’t come cheap and the average starter costs just Chinese restaurant in Utrecht that serves Cantonese dishes.
under €10 and mains hover above €15 mark. However, if you You’ll have to ignore the curt manner of the majority of the
ever feel like treating yourself then Opium might just be the staff, but where else do they bring you your food on a trolly?
place for you. QOpen 17:30 - 22:00. (€15 - 19). JK QOpen 12:00 - 21:30. TAKS

Utrecht In Your Pocket

26 Restaurants
Manneken Pis B-4, Vredenburg 154-155, tel. (+31)
Dutch 346 56 20 40,, www.manneken-
Bar Walden B-2, Domplein 16, tel. (+31) 302 36 49 82, Manneken Pis has already won the ‘Best Fries in the, The monumental, Netherlands Award’ by Frietopia three times and in Utrecht it
storied past of this historic building is one of the reasons has grown to become the unofficial caterer for the shopping
that this restaurant is so popular with Utrecht locals. Add a masses. The fries are fresh and crunchy and you can choose
warm atmosphere, knowledgeable and friendly staff and a from no less than 21 types of sauces like Andalusian, green
fantastic price-quality ratio, not to mention the fact that the pepper and low-fat mayonnaise. The servings are named
chef uses mostly local Dutch produce making lunch or dinner after comic book and cartoon characters so watch out for
here ecologically sound and you have several more reasons the ‘Obelix’ which amounts to nearly a kilo of golden potatoes!
to come here. Starters and desserts cost €5 and the seven QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00.
main courses are €15 each. If you don’t have any plans left (€2 - 5). JGBKS
for flirting try the tarte tatin of pumpkin and goat cheese with
garlic foam. Q (€15). TJA6GBKX
Holland Casino Utrecht B-6, Overste den Oudenlaan 2 Brasserie Goeie Louisa Geertebolwerk 1, tel. (+31)
(Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 307 50 47 50, fax (+31) 307 50 302 33 75 55,, www.goeielouisa.
47 00,, www.hollandcasino. nl. Not as average a place as the name would lead you to
nl. Apart from losing all your money to one-armed bandits, you believe, as a part of the five-star Grand Hotel Karel V, this
can also spend your preciously earned income on a complete restaurant has an impeccable reputation for gastronomic
sole fillet for €47.50, but that would be the most expensive excellence. Goeie Louisa is housed in the kitchen of a former
dish on the menu, which is varied and offers a little something monastery, which lends an authentic medieval feel to your
for everyone. The chef naturally changes the cuisine accord- dining experience. The prices here are higher than average,
ing to the seasons, but our favourite is still the salmon with but top quality cuisine doesn’t come cheap. A good place to
sauerkraut. The seize-the-day dish is different each day, but go for the true connoisseur or if you just have money to burn.
a great bargain for the fixed price of only €11. QOpen 17:00 QOpen 08:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:30. (€17 - 25).
- 01:30. (€18 - 23). ALK TJHAUGB

Toque Toque A-2, Oudegracht 138, tel. (+31) 302 32 Bresson B-3, Oudegracht 214, tel. (+31) 302 32 26
25 55,, Where 23,, www.brasseriebresson.
Dutch people may have an inclination to get depressed with nl. This stylish place has a French-chic theme and a a black
the changing of seasons (especially in autumn and winter), and white colour scheme that is present in everything from
the chef of restaurant Toque Toque simply loves it. Every the spotless wait staff and the photos on the wall to the
four months he surprises his patrons with a new Dutch furniture and pretty much everything else in the restaurant.
menu with Mediterranean influences. It’s a true pleasure to It’s a pleasant break from the usual casualness and fusion of
watch this enthusiastic cook at work in the open kitchen of styles so typical of Dutch establishments and, more impor-
this monumental building. The interior of the restaurant is a tantly, the chicness isn’t reflected in its prices. For as little
combination of old and new styles, which seem to have been as €11 you and a friend can get quite an elaborate spread for
brought together at random, yet somehow complement each lunch. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 10:00 - 24:00.
other. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (€15 - 20). (€16 - 23). JAGK
C’est Ca D-3, Bollenhofsestraat 142 (Utrecht-City),
tel. (+31) 302 71 01 05,
Ethiopian This restaurant is situated in the yuppie neighbourhood of
Sunshine C-3, Pauwstraat 11, tel. (+31) 302 23 25 Wittevrouwen and it maintains a ‘one size fits all’ principle:
25,, Up for everyone pays the same price for the same five-course meal,
something different? Enjoy eating with your hands? Especially which has been thought up by the chef earlier in the day based
off someone else’s plate? Then try Sunshine, because this on available fresh produce. Guests can tell their server in
Ethiopian restaurant makes very few concessions to Dutch advance what they wouldn’t like to see on the menu - meat,
cuisine. Whatever you order from the menu will end up in small fish, shellfish, and so on - but other than that the menu will
heaps on a large enjera (sourdough pancake), which you eat remain a surprise until the dishes are brought to your table.
off of together with your friends in a brotherly manner until the You can count on one of the courses to be a cheese platter,
restaurant staff drags you away from the table for an African however, as you are in a French restaurant after all. The dishes
dance. The vegetables, lamb and lentil puree are well-spiced, aren’t too complicated, but are skilfully prepared classics of
but given its price the enjera could use some more toppings. French and sometimes even Italian cuisine. QOpen 18:00
Unfortunately, the toilets are dirty and the plastic table cloths - 21:30. (€32). PAGK
are sticky, but the heart-warming enthusiasm of the people
who run the place makes up for it. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00, Fri, Chez Willy B-3, Oude Gracht aan de Werf 73, tel. (+31)
Sat 16:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (€12 - 15). JAGKS 302 36 46 18, fax (+31) 302 36 46 15, info@chezwilly.
nl, Despite the fact that the interior
Fast food & Delivery seems somewhat dated with its brown tiled floor, its coloured
furniture and the bars in front of the windows, few places in
Kentucky Fried Chicken A-1, Vredenburg 13, tel. the inner city will serve food for less money than Chez Willy.
(+31) 302 31 42 84, If 8 million people The service is great in this historical wharf cellar and host
throughout the world eat a Colonel’s fillet-burger or Mexican and chef Ercan is well-known for his marinated spareribs and
twister every day there must be a good reason. Let’s face it. meat skewers. Old murals, candlelight and the ever-friendly
KFC isn’t healthy, but it’s delicious so put your contempt for staff provide a pleasant and informal dining atmosphere.
American fast food chains aside and order some deep-fried You can even reserve ‘your’ spot on the terrace by the water
chicken, because it really is finger lickin’ good. QOpen 10:00 online. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (€15 - 20).
- 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. PTJGK TJA6GBKX

Utrecht In Your Pocket

Restaurants 27

Het Licht C-1, Biltstraat 48, tel. (+31) 302 76 25 67,, Despite the small
menu, the food at Het Licht (The Light) is absolutely marvel-
lous. Finally a restaurant that understands that quality is so
much more important than quantity. It’s also worth mention-
ing that you can order main courses as starters, and vice
versa and due to the seasonal menu, you’ll find something
delicious at any time of the year. It’s also a relief to know
that members of the staff actually know what they’re talking
about and are keen to help, in contrast to what you’ll find in
many other restaurants where student employees only see
their jobs as a necessary evil to supplement their meagre
student loans. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Mon 16:00 - 24:00.
(€15 - 20). PTJAULGBKXW

Le Bibelot B-3, Oudegracht 181, tel. (+31) 302 31

33 53, Groups and private parties are
welcome in this attractive wharf cellar, but ‘average’ people
have to take a seat in the romantic ground-level restaurant
whose interior is tastefully decorated with a variety of South
European details. Mediterranean dishes are available for rea-
sonable prices including our favourites - the Carre d’Agneau
au vin rouge (lamb chops in red wine sauce) and the lobster
soup with crème fraiche. If you can’t make up your mind try the
three-course menu for roughly €20. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00.
Closed Mon. (€16 - 19). AGK

Mej. Janssen B-3, Oudegracht aan de Werf 143, tel.

(+31) 302 31 09 38, You can reach
this restaurant by boat and even moor it in front of the door!
In one of Utrecht’s many historic wharf cellars you’ll find this
pleasant restaurant which specialises in French and Dutch
cuisine. Don’t expect haute cuisine, but rather, simple,
tasty dishes for a reasonable price. Add extremely friendly
service and you have quite a few of the ingredients for a fun
night out. The ambience, however, is somewhat loud and
the desserts could have been presented better. QOpen
16:30 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (€15 - 20).

Polman’s Huis B-2, Keistraat 2, tel. (+31) 302 31

33 68, fax (+31) 302 31 60 38,
If you’d have preferred to live a century ago in Paris, you’ll
definitely enjoy Polman’s Huis. The imposing ballroom with
its 10m-high ceiling could easily serve as a set for a French
costume drama. Today, this stylish restaurant is the place
to go for anyone with refined tastes and the cash to support
them. If you find the nearly regal ambience tiresome, you can
always keep yourself entertained by checking out the large
windows and mirrors. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.
(€29 - 35). JHABK

Lisboa A-2, Zakkendragerssteeg 25, tel. (+31) 302 30
22 25. This trendy little place is located in what could be the
narrowest alley in the city, but it’s worth the extra effort to find
it. The staff is friendly and the €5 mini-dishes, consisting of,
among other things, sashimi on skewers and smoked bass
in orange sauce, are delicious and original. Moreover, for that
price you can try a few so you don’t have to feel like you’re
missing out on something. But don’t come here expecting
Portuguese cuisine as the name Lisboa is deceiving and
certainly doesn’t reflect the fusion food it serves. QOpen
17:00 - 24:00. (€5 - 15). TJAGBK

Hungry for more? Winter 2010 - 2011

28 Restaurants
Greek Indian
Ouzeri To Steki B-3, Oudegracht 261, tel. (+31) 302 Taj Mahal B-2, Zadelstraat 32, tel. (+31) 302 31 45
33 39 98,, 30, fax (+31) 302 31 71 15,, www.
This cosy Greek restaurant specialises in mezethes (small Since 1648, the Taj Mahal has been India’s
dishes that you can share with your table companions). The most impressive building bar none. For the city of Utrecht,
service isn’t exactly perfect but always friendly and helpful. the restaurant of the same name has served some of the
Don’t get too carried away ordering the small dishes though, best Indian cuisine since 1985. Enjoy the fresh ingredients in
because they’re filling and the garlic can be overpowering. the curries and vegetarian dishes or try something from the
The lack of the usual Greek-style knick-knacks hanging from tandoor. If by some miracle you don’t find anything you like on
the ceiling is refreshing. QOpen 16:30 - 23:00. Closed Mon. the menu, you can always entertain yourself by checking out
(€8 - 13). TJ6GKS the many decorations and tapestries from the Subcontinent.
QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. (€12 - 17). JAK
Taverna B-3, Oudegracht aan de Werf 101 - 103, tel.
(+31) 302 33 49 39. This restaurant resembles an en-
nobled kebab shop more than a charming Greek tavern. The Indonesian
wilted lettuce and dried-out cucumber seems to have been Asli C-1, Biltstraat 58, tel. (+31) 302 71 13 85. Thank-
taken straight out of a ready-cut supermarket bag, but the fully the food at this Indonesian restaurant is better than its
gyros are tender, although somewhat bland. The fresh tzatziki interior. Unless you’re a fan of plastic chairs and awkward
is quite tasty and on a sunny day, the outdoor seating area vases, takeaway is probably your best option. For €6 you can
is a definite plus. Treat yourself to a calorie-bomb: the Greek get a tasty meal consisting of rice, fried rice or noodles with
ice-cream biscuit as a dessert. QOpen 16:00 - 22:30. (€15 four vegetable or meat dishes. Asli means authentic and some
- 20). JBK dishes are truly and authentically spicy. The service, however,
could use a bit of spice as the small, friendly Indonesian ladies
behind the counter are sometimes a bit slow. QOpen 12:00
Grill - 20:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (€6 - 10). T6NGKS
Le Clochard C-3, Ridderhofstad 2, tel. (+31) 302 31 02
73, If you think haute cuisine Selamat Makan B-1, Voorstraat 100, tel. (+31) 302
is a bit too fancy for your tastes, but you’d appreciate some 36 89 17, Selamat Makan is
Dutch friendliness and a generous serving of food, then pay stylishly decorated and the staff will do anything to make you
a visit to Le Clochard - a trusted refuge for locals for over feel comfortable. There are typically Dutch ersatz rice tables
36 years. The Giant Harry - a 400 gram slab of beef - is its to choose from, but unfortunately the portions are somewhat
signature dish. If you’d like to gain eternal fame in this 1970s- small - especially for big eaters such as our research team. In
style restaurant, just send them a postcard and they’ll stick fact, the draught beers, too, could be much bigger. QOpen
it up above the bar with the hundreds of other cards people 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (€17 - 23). TJAGK
have sent over the decades. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. (€15
- 20). TJIK
Restaurant Den Draeck A-2, Oudegracht a/d Werf Aal B-2, Oudegracht aan de werf 159, tel. (+31) 302
114 - 122, tel. (+31) 302 32 19 99, 33 48 26, Aal is housed in a small,
Many European cities offer medieval restaurants where the attractive wharf cellar that offers the dark atmosphere that’s
staff walks around in furs, the atmosphere is ‘authentically’ so typical of locations like these. You can get a three-course
ancient and patrons eat large chunks of meat by hand. Utrecht dinner for €22.50 and the seasonal dishes vary from mackerel
has wisely avoided this culinary experience, but the restaurant rillettes with chive-crème fraiche to lamb with risotto and a
that comes closest is Den Draeck. The marginal lighting cheese platter with balsamic-apple syrup. It’s also a good
makes sitting in this historic building cosy and romantic and place to go for wine aficionados as Aal doubles as a wine bar.
it also has the distinction of being Utrecht’s only stone grill In September it’s closed on Sundays and Mondays. QOpen
restaurant. QOpen 17:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri 17:00 - 21:30, 17:00 - 23:00. (€17 - 22). JB
Sat 17.00 - 22.00. JGBKX
Asia de Cuba B-2, Domplein 8, tel. (+31) 303 21 58 66,, www.restaurantasi-
Ice cream Located directly next to the Dom Tower, Asia
IJs en Zopie C-5, Twijnstraat 79, tel. (+31) 307 67 00 de Cuba serves small, all-you-can-eat dishes from around the
54, This friendly ice-cream parlour is world. You can choose from more then 30 international dishes
open all year round. Situated in a tiny building on the Twijn- and the complex rules of the menu make ordering a part of the
straat, this place has become well-known for its fair-trade and dining experience, but the staff is eager to help you in case
organic products. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. TJ you run into trouble. The interior of red and grey walls and
beautiful photographs is stylish and vegetarians have plenty
Il Mulino B-2, Adelaarsstraat 2-4, tel. (+31) 302 71 74 of dishes to choose from, too. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00, Thu,
11, Despite the fact that the name of this Fri, Sat 17:00 - 24:00. (€18 - 23). TJGBK
lovely ice-cream parlour suggests a Mediterranean influence,
the setting and the traditionally-made ice-cream could hardly Bis B-2, Lijnmarkt 26, tel. (+31) 302 31 58 31, www.
be more Dutch. Where else can you buy ice-cream with fla- This tiny restaurant is situated in a monu-
vours like Dutch liquorice and cucumber? This pastel-coloured mental building on the Oudegracht. Its menu is modest but
jewel is situated in the shade of a windmill bearing the same varied and the food is good. Its clientele consists mainly of
name. Watch the boats pass by the Weerdsingel, armed with business people out for lunch and it tends to get very busy
our all-time favourite: creamy mascarpone-orange ice-cream. which doesn’t make it the best place to go if you’re in a hurry.
Even people with food allergies will find something to their lik- But if you have some time to spare, it’s worth popping in for
ing, but bear in mind that Il Mulino is only open from the end of a while. Bis also offers high tea and has a wide selection of
February until October. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. TG wines. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (€15 - 20). JB

Utrecht In Your Pocket

Restaurants 29

Broers stadscafe-restaurant B-2, Janskerkhof 9,

tel. (+31) 302 34 34 06, fax (+31) 302 36 44 09,, If
you like desserts you won’t usually enjoy Dutch restaurants
much. But if you pay a visit to this multifunctional pub you’ll
have to readjust your opinion. Our favourite is the oven baked
brownie with toffee sauce and whipped cream, although the
grilled pineapple with bourbon vanilla ice-cream and cinnamon
almonds is also tempting. Parents will also be delighted to
know that the kids can order more than the usual chips with
sausages here. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00.

De Drie Vrienden B-3, ‘t Wed 1, tel. (+31) 302 36

44 66,, www.de3vrienden.
nl/utrecht. This popular and friendly place is conveniently
located on ‘t Wed Square. It seems to specialise in lots of
small, moderately priced servings of starters and mains
and although these tiny dishes are obviously cheaper than
the regular sized meals of your average restaurant, the total
sum of what you have to pay always magically adds up to
a little bit above the local average. This is also the place
for low key tastings of ports, liqueurs and fancy whiskeys.
QOpen 17:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun.
(€8.50). JBK

De Eetkamer C-1, Steenstraat 29, tel. (+31) 302 32

80 11,,
Formerly one of Utrecht’s most famous butcher shops, this
place turned into an attractive little cafeteria/restaurant
several years ago.The decoration is arty and the food is tasty.
You can get lunch and dinner here and the dishes vary from
grilled tuna on a salad with cherry tomatoes and antiboise
and pumpkin soup with eel and truffle cream to fried crayfish
with rose compote and chocolate. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30.
(€15 - 20). BK Lokaal 9 B-2, Trans 7, tel. (+31) 302 31 13 18, www. Find this popular bar/restaurant tucked
De Rechtbank (The Court of Law) B-3, Korte Nieuw- away in one Utrecht’s historic streets. It’s traditionally a stu-
straat 14, tel. (+31) 302 33 00 30, dent and young-at-heart lecturer favourite due to its location
nl. This decidedly un-Dutch restaurant knows what foreign opposite the uni’s faculty of arts. The friendly staff serve tasty
tourists value in a culinary institution. Whether it’s breakfast, Flemish meals for a reasonable price with a great variety of
lunch, brunch, high tea or dinner, De Rechtbank is a must see beers to wash it down with. Every Monday you can join the
when it comes to food. Each morning patrons can take a ‘improv kitchen’ (reservation required) where you bring your
seat for the breakfast buffet from 06:30 under the watchful own ingredients and conjure up something tasty under the
gaze of a life-sized portrait of Maffia boss Al Capone. During animated supervision of the chef. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00.
the day, this stylish place is popular with home-makers who Closed Sun. (€14 - 18). JAGBK
often deposit their offspring at the basket full of toys or on the
restaurant’s outdoor terrace, one of the most child-friendly Lokaal De Reunie B-3, ‘t Wed 3a, tel. (+31) 302 31
in the city. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 07:30 - 22:00. 01 00, A varied audience from
(€15 - 20). TJAUGBKXW students to grannies will have a good time in this trendy and
stylish restaurant. Large windows, a lovely outdoor terrace,
Le Conaisseur A-2, Oudegracht 59, tel. (+31) 302 31 long tables, quiet music in the background and a dash of old
04 56, Although the fancy name world elegance can all be found at this beautiful place, which is
might suggest otherwise, this is more of a place for the popular for its extensive menu and affordable prices. You can
carnivore than the connoisseur. Visit this restaurant when wait to be seated at the brown bar with a cold beer. QOpen
you’re starving, but don’t have much money to spend. The 11:00 - 24:00, Mon 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (€14
selection is average, but meals are big and you can fill yourself - 17). JGBKXW
up for a reasonable price (€19.50 for a four-course meal). Un-
fortunately, that means that you have to put up with an often Parkcafe Buiten D-4, Prins Hendriklaan 2 (Utrecht-
cranky staff, paying for your water and a sloppy mishmash of City), tel. (+31) 302 54 35 43, www.parkcafebuiten.
styles. The combination of a library-like interior and the Mexi- nl. Just across from the the Wilhelmina Park, you’ll find Park
can looking menus with Franglais/Dunglish sounding dishes Café Buiten. Situated only walking distance from the hectic
taxes the hunger impaired mind to say the least. QOpen inner city, this café/restaurant functions as an oasis for
17:00 - 24:00. (€12 - 17). TJAGK stressed-out city folk. It specialises in all sorts of small bites,
but romantics will also find what they’re looking for as it rents
picnic baskets with which you can have a breakfast, lunch or
Want to subscribe? E-mail us at dinner in the park. A coloured, comfortable blanket is part
of the standard equipment. You can even order a basket of delicacies for your barking quadruped. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (€17 - 20). TJ6GBKXS Winter 2010 - 2011

30 Restaurants
Paviljoen De Colonie B-2, Ganzenmarkt 16a, tel. (+31) Stadskasteel Oudaen A-2, Oudegracht 99, tel. (+31)
302 33 45 35,, The 302 31 18 64, Even if it served only water
Colony fulfills every requirement expected of a cosy Dutch and dry bread, people would come here for the atmosphere
restaurant. The staff is friendly and helpful, the interior is anyway. Stadskastel Oudaen is by far the most beautiful
snug and homey, the menu is varied and the portions are place in town and the perfect venue to have a drink, eat a
big. Lunch is especially good, hence its popularity. Should light snack, sip some beer or to have an incredible meal for
the restaurant ever close its doors, the place can continue reasonable prices. We highly recommend the huge salads and
on as a museum, thanks to the colonial interior, the many old the mussels, which could hardly be fresher if you caught them
paintings and the traditional lead glass windows. QOpen yourself. And although Oudaen is almost always packed with
11:00 - 22:00. K people, the attentive staff keep serving food and delicious
micro-brewed beer with a genuine smile. QOpen 11:00
Puur Eten & Drinken B-2, Lange Janstraat 28, tel. - 22:00. TJHIGBKXW
(+31) 302 38 24 54,, www.eet- Underneath the watchful eye of the Buddha you’ll Vermeulen A-5, Croeselaan 303 (Utrecht-City), tel.
experience pure enjoyment in Puur, which offers a comfortable (+31) 302 99 11 90, In
brown-and-white interior with thoughtful details. The menu many large cities, the area behind the central train station
isn’t exactly huge, but varied enough to fill every hungry belly is frequently impoverished or at least no longer worth a visit
and the artsy presentation is reason enough to visit this place. after sunset. In this particular neighbourhood in Utrecht, how-
We recommend the sautéed tuna and the plaice combined ever, where streets are named after poets, you’ll find snug and
with shrimps, but if you’ve got a sweet tooth you won’t be modern Vermeulen, which is an exception to the rule. Whether
disappointed either. Few restaurants offer such a wide range you’re looking for a sumptuous dish or just a draught beer, hip
of delicious desserts. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat Vermeulen is the place to be. Q TA6UGKW
11:30 - 24:00. (€13 - 16). J6NGBK
Zocher B-2, Lucasbolwerk 21, tel. (+31) 302 32 21 27,
Restaurant Elvi D-4, Jan van Scorelstraat 21-23 (Utre- This tiny bar/brasserie with
cht-City), tel. (+31) 302 51 39 13, an elegant décor is hidden away across from the municipal
Most In Your Pocket reviewers aren’t vegetarians. However, in theatre. It has an extensive wine list, an original menu of interna-
a fit of insanity, we do order a meatless dish from time to time tional food which includes grain-fed beef from Texas and, quite
and we’re happy that it was at this French/Italian restaurant. unconventionally, a kitchen and bar in one. The mini-kitchen is
The celeriac, courgette and cep mushroom dish was delicious, open until midnight, which is also unusual for restaurants in
partly because of the liberal use of pumpkin and chestnuts in Utrecht and unlike some of the student-run places, the wait
this beautifully arranged seasonal dish. Naturally, this neigh- staff here don’t act too chummy with their customers. It’s also
bourhood restaurant, east of the Wilhelmina Park, is well worth good for typical Dutch snacks. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00, Sun
a visit due to the friendly, knowledgeable staff, the carefully cho- 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. (€14 - 19). JK
sen wines and the attractive interior. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00,
Sat 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€17 - 23). BK
Rosa’s Kitchen B-4, Everard Meijsterlaan 32 (Utrecht- Casa Di David B-3, Oudegracht aan de Werf 88, tel.
Area), tel. (+31) 302 99 00 05, (+31) 302 36 84 36, One of the
A bit out of the town centre but nevertheless a good place better Italian restaurants in the city is, not surprisingly, also
to go, Rosa’s Kitchen is a cute little place, undoubtedly run one of the more expensive ones. Dinner at Casa di David is,
by someone called Rosa, who serves small dishes at decent however, a truly Italian experience. The menu is extensive and
prices (under €10). Choose from a wide variety of interesting offers so many great dishes that you’ll be overwhelmed by
cuisine like spring rolls filled with minced lamb, various types the selection. The fish soup and the entrecote with pepper
of fish with chilli mayonnaise and soft curd cheese-mint dip or sauce on a bed of rocket leaves are not to be missed. The
a portobello mushroom covered with gorgonzola and sweet attractive interior in a historical wharf cellar is also a plus,
red onion with a rocket salad and pine nuts. QOpen 17:00 especially on Sunday nights when an Italian tenor comes to
- 21:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 21:30. Closed Mon. BK sing arias. QOpen 17:30 - 22:30. JAK

Central Park B-5, Oosterkade 18, tel. (+31) 302 51 11

Stingy Dutchmen abroad 13,, www.centralparkutre- Since 1853 New York has been the proud location
When Dutch people travel of the world’s most famous park. But Utrecht, too, has a
abroad they are great promo- Central Park. If you wish to flee from the stress, noise, and
ters of traditional Dutch produ- bustle of the city for a moment, then this restaurant is the
cts. More than 50% of Dutch place for you. Try pizzas, pastas and meal salads with your
favourite ingredients for a uniform price of €10. A variety of
holidaymakers bring along other traditional Italian dishes are cooked in the restaurant’s
food from home on their inter- wood-fired oven. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 16:00
national travels, especially - 23:00. (€10 - 17.50) TAUGBKW
typically Dutch things such as
liquorice, cheese, chocolate Delano A-2, Mariaplaats 42, tel. (+31) 302 14 55 52,
sprinkles, ontbijtkoek (a type Stepping into Delano seems like a trip back
of ginger cake) and even potatoes and pancake in time. Four decades to be exact. The sober, mocha-brown
mix! Caravans, cars, suitcases and even bicycle interior with its many beautiful touches is an oasis of peace
and the comfortable lounge sofas and three different bars
panniers cross the border bursting with familiar are an ideal setting for a DJ who plays all sorts of jazz-based
edibles. All this happily preserving their global music. The food, based on Italian cuisine, is a definite plus
image as ‘those stingy, frugal Dutch’… for this bar, which is inspired by the famous art deco hotel
Delano in South Beach Miami.

Utrecht In Your Pocket

Restaurants 31

De Pastabar B-2, Schoutenstraat 15, tel. (+31) 302 Kyushu B-1, Voorstraat 66, tel. (+31) 302 34 36 30,
31 36 67,, The food, service and atmosphere were
The name of the Pastabar, one of the suspiciously numer- all fine in this Japanese restaurant, but we weren’t exactly
ous Italian places on the short Schoutenstraat, suggests impressed either. The sushi is prepared on the spot and
a snack bar serving pasta. It is, however, much more than rather delicious, but the seaweed is bit chewy. The waiters are
that even though the restaurant does keep the choices to very friendly, but not always alert and the minimalist interior
a bare minimum. Choose a pasta base (tagliatelle, penne or of unvarnished wood gives Kyushu an average atmosphere.
spaghetti) and a type of sauce. Some of these are rather Prices range from €3.50 for a vegetarian maki roll to €18 for
basic, such as ‘basil and garlic’ and nothing else, but you’re a luxurious roll with salmon caviar. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
invited to sprinkle as many pine nuts and parmesan cheese PTJGKS
on your food as you like. The food is relatively expensive, but
is compensated by its quality and freshness. The house wines
are also well worth a try. QOpen 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Mediterranean
(€13 - 18). JABK Delphi’s B-2, Neude 29, tel. (+31) 302 31 71 47, fax
(+31) 302 32 27 90, In
Mr. Jacks B-1, Voorstraat 61, tel. (+31) 302 32 85 33, 1981, the owner of this building opened the very first Greek The place to go for people travelling on a restaurant in the Netherlands. Since then the concept of quick
shoe-string budget, this Italian restaurant traditionally caters service and reasonable prices has been copied innumerable
to financially challenged students. Greek grill specialties start times, which is, perhaps, the reason that Delphi’s now also
from €10, pizzas from €5 and pastas from €7.50 and the serves international dishes. Thankfully there are still authen-
serving sizes are surprisingly big. However, the dishes are tic Greek wines on the menu and bottles of olive oil on each
average at best, so don’t expect any culinary wonders here. table. If you have a meal here in the evening you’ll experience
QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. (€5 - 15). JVKS some traditional Greek atmosphere, but during the day it’s
more of a café. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (€16 - 21). JK
Pronto Pronto B-2, Schoutenstraat 19, tel. (+31) 302
14 55 52, fax (+31) 302 14 57 72, info@prontopronto. Het Zuiden A-2, Mariastraat 4, tel. (+31) 302 32 58 48,
nl, Although many large cities have This pleasant little restau-
a Chinatown, Utrecht has a genuine Little Italy, which revolves rant serves mainly Mediterranean dishes, but not of a stan-
around the Schoutenstraat. Many shops, restaurants and dard variety. Order swordfish with nut salad, marinated tuna
domestic caterers breathe a Southern European atmosphere stuffed with crayfish and orange couscous or a guinea fowl
into this area and Pronto Pronto, with its open kitchen, is a fillet with figs, pistachio nuts and saffron rice. The wait staff
great place to go if you enjoy truly fresh ingredients and typi- is friendly and prices are about average for Utrecht. QOpen
cal Italian dishes. You won’t find a standard pizza or pasta, 11:30 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (€18 - 26). JBK
however, but there is a range of small, original dishes. Save
some space for the homemade apple pie with a dash of Winkel van Sinkel A-2, Oudegracht 158, tel. (+31)
rosemary. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. JK 302 30 30 30. First opened as a department store in the
early 19th century, this is probably one of the most famous
Japanese establishments in Utrecht and it caters to all tastes. On the
ground floor you’ll find a bar/restaurant, while an evening
Hasekura B-5, Veilinghavekade 115 - 127 (Utrecht- restaurant and nightclub are available in Winkel’s wharf cellars.
City), tel. (+31) 306 77 78 38, This is The restaurant has an Arabic feel and serves Mediterranean
the only place in Utrecht that offers all you-can-eat Japanese tapas until late. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
cuisine. Located outside the city centre next to a recently (€10 - 17). JK
developed marina, Hasekura offers an incredible feast for only
€24.95. In a period of 2.5 hours you can tick all the dishes
you’d like to eat on an order form. If you’re up for another
Outside seating B
round of sushi or teppan yaki, you just ask for another form.
The advantage of this measured method is that there’s less
Although it’s winter, many Dutch cafés and restau-
risk of you ordering more than you can possibly eat. However rants still offer heated seating outside, even if
there is a downside: the wait staff will know just how much of there’s snow on the ground. That said, we apo-
glutton you really are! You can also ask for its à la carte menu logise in advance if the restaurateurs suddenly
if you’re not in the mood to eat like Homer Simpson. QOpen decide that it’s too cold to serve you outside.
15:00 - 22:30. (€15 - 20). K Winter 2010 - 2011

32 Restaurants
Theehuis Rhijnauwen B-4, Rhijnauwenselaan 16,
Mexican Bunnik (Utrecht-Area), tel. (+31) 306 56 12 85. This
Popocatepetl B-2, Nobelstraat 163, tel. (+31) 302 tearoom/pancake house is located in the middle of a country
31 57 19, The colourful contents of Po- estate, only a 15-minute bike ride from the city centre and is
pocatepetl, which occupies two floors and is named after a perfect setting to stretch your legs and have a hearty meal.
Mexico’s most famous volcano, could easily be transferred For those already sick and tired of cycling everywhere: you
to a museum of Central American culture. Should you wish to can also rent a canoe in the city centre and paddle your way
admire all the curiosities collected here, it would probably take here! In summer the round-trip boats also moor here. Walk
you a week to do them any justice. Absorb the multicoloured five minutes from the Bunnik train station to Van Zijldreef and
ambience of paintings, fake cacti, religious depictions and take bus Nr.43 six minutes to Rhijnauwenselaan and then walk
Mexican nick-nacks while eating its staple cuisine of tapachula another five minutes. QOpen 11:00 - 20:30, Sat, Sun 10:30
and fajitas which it’s been serving for over 25 years. QOpen - 20:30. (€5 - 10). T6BK
17:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (€10 - 15). JAK
Yakimono B-4, Meidoornkade 33, Houten (Utrecht-
Area), tel. (+31) 306 77 75 86, Yaki-
Moroccan mono, which is situated on the first floor of the De Toekomst
Salaam A-4, Kanaalstraat 124 (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) (The Future) building on the A27 motorway serves an all-you-
302 96 76 04, If you’ve ever can-eat buffet. The central wok island is the axis around which
eaten at Salaam, you’ve already embraced this North African the entire restaurant revolves. Pick your favourite piece of
nation forever. The spiced, but not too spicy dishes, the meat, fish and vegetable and hand it to the chefs, who will
friendly staff and the attractive prices make this authentic wok it right in front of your nose. The great variety of wines
Moroccan restaurant a great place to dine. We recommend is something you won’t often see in Asian restaurants and is
the starter ‘Harira’ (celery soup with chickpeas) and the lamb a welcome surprise. Don’t leave the building without trying
and chicken couscous as a main course.QOpen 17:00 the futuristic ice-cream machine. QOpen 17:00 - 22:00.
- 23:00. Closed Mon. (€10 - 15). TJUGBK (€20 - €24). TAULGK

Out of town Pancakes

Barbacoa BBQ & Grill B-4, Meidoornkade 29, Houten De Oude Muntkelder C-4, Oudegracht 112 aan de
(Utrecht-Area), tel. (+31) 306 77 72 22, www.barbacoa. Werf, tel. (+31) 302 31 67 73, www.deoudemuntkelder.
nl. The Future is a multifunctional building next to the A27 nl. If it’s pancakes you’re after come to De Oude Muntkelder,
motorway. Three different restaurants and a bowling alley which is the only pancake restaurant in a radius of three
keep young and old entertained. Barbacoa BBQ & Grill is an kilometres. Wolf down your Dutch flapjacks with litres of
all-you-can-eat place where for €25 you can grill and barbecue syrup or try something more exotic like the savoury Chilean
as much pork, beef, chicken, lamb or turkey as you want. pancake with beans and ground beef. Situated at the canals
Because of the spacious interior and the large selection of of Utrecht, the open space of the terraces makes up for the
meat, soups and sauces, this is an ideal place if you’re really, cramped tables that are huddled together inside. Have kids?
really hungry. But if you’d prefer to dine somewhere quiet and No problem. Put them in the play area inside. QOpen 12:00
chic, you’d better go somewhere else. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. - 21:00. (€8 - 11). PTJAGBKW
Closed Mon, Tue. (€25). TAUILGKXW

Basiliek Vischmarkt 57a, Harderwijk, tel. (+31) 341 41 Portuguese

52 90, Basiliek is a tastefully Algarve C-1, Biltstraat 98, tel. (+31) 302 71 84 08,
decorated restaurant with an international character located Unlike most Portuguese restau-
in a former monastery in the old centre of Harderwijk. It’s been rants this one isn’t stuffed with fishing nets, crabs and stone
awarded a Michelin star so even though it’s a 40-minute car jugs. Nevertheless, it has white walls and wooden tables and
ride from the centre of Utrecht, it’s more than worth the trip. reversed plates on the tables. Not just for Portuguese food
The name Basiliek (Basilica) honours the former St. Agnes aficionados, Algarve is also good for people on a budget, but
monastery, with old arched roofs, high stable doors and Roman- bear in mind that service is also Portuguese, meaning slow,
esque windows. Modern interpretations of French cuisine are yet remarkably friendly, which is why it’s been in business for
its speciality and the most intriguing and artsy amuse-bouches over a quarter of a century. QOpen 18:00 - 22:00. Closed
provide incredible taste combinations. The chef frequently Mon, Tue. (€12 - 15). TJNGK
comes by to personally explain his menu of seasonal and
regional products. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.
Quick Eats
De Veldkeuken (The Field Kitchen) B-4, Konings- Javaans Meisje (Java Girl) B-2, Vinkenburgstraat, tel.
laan 11a, Bunnink (Utrecht-Area), tel. (+31) 302 54 (+31) 634 28 25 23. If you don’t have time for an extensive
24 63, You order at the bar, the toilet lunch and if you don’t feel like eating the Dutch, deep-fried
is out back and the tables are adorned with wild flowers. junk, you can always go to Javaans Meisje. This fixed stand
De Veldkeuken is situated in the former coach house of the on the corner of the Vinkenburgstraat and Neude is the ideal
Amelisweerd country estate that emanates an authentic rural place for a quick meal. Rinia and Bob have been running
atmosphere. Fresh produce from a neighbour’s vegetable the show here for two decades and they specialise in fresh
garden are used for delicious soups, bread rolls, pastries and Surinamese and Indonesian sandwiches. Twelve different,
juices. Enjoy sitting outside on logs that serve as benches large sandwiches with exotic fillings such as shrimp, black-
or inside by a roaring fire. You can also get a walking map eyed peas, bakkeljauw (dried fish) and roti are sold at great
with a packed lunch and on Wednesdays and Fridays it sells speed to hungry passers-by in a rush. Colourful pictures of the
fresh bread. Easy to reach on foot, by bicycle, by canoe or dishes will help you choose, but you’ll need some patience,
from the Krommerijn bus stop (bus Nr.12). QOpen 12:00 as all of the sandwiches and wraps are cooked in the oven
- 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:30, Sun 11:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon, while you wait. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€3
Tue. T6ULGBKS - 5). J6UBXS

Utrecht In Your Pocket

Restaurants 33

Tapas Thai
Ele B-3, Oudegracht aan de Werf 211, tel. (+31) 302 31 Little Siam A-5, Balijelaan 17, tel. (+31) 302 97 01 05.
21 65, Ele is a Spanish tapas restaurant The Buddhas and the lucky cat are somewhat kitsch, but the
located in one of the many wharf cellars on the Oudegracht. food is good all the same. You can expect plenty of choice
The dishes are reasonably priced and tasty, especially for gar- (also for vegetarians), portions that will keep you fed for days
lic lovers, and if you’re lucky you might even catch a guitarist and fresh Thai vegetables. The food has been adjusted for
playing classic Spanish music. Although miscommunications Western taste buds and is therefore rather mild, but it can
can occur with the Spanish speaking staff from time to time, be properly spiced up upon request. QOpen 17:00 - 05:00,
they’re an extremely friendly bunch. QOpen 17:00 - 22:00. Mon 17:00 - 22:00. (€10 - 20). PT6GKS
Closed Mon. (€5 - 8). JEB

El Mundo B-2, Voorstraat 18, tel. (+31) 302 36 45 Vegetarian

43, If you don’t have enough Eethuis Ekko B-2, Bemuurde Weerd WZ 3, tel. (+31)
cash to go to Spain, have dinner in the biggest tapas bar in 302 31 74 57, On club nights the foyer of
Utrecht, which is worth a visit if only for the typical Iberian pop stage Ekko is magically converted into a vegetarian res-
interior. Worn flamenco guitars share the walls with wooden taurant. The three-course menu is different every week and
crucifixes, and lamps shed light over posters of bullfighting in prepared by volunteers. The atmosphere is informal, alterna-
this building of two floors. The food, too, is more than worth tive music is played from the bar and you can smell a whiff of
it, although the bill at the end of the evening can be surpris- the beer that was consumed at your table the night before.
ingly high because of the many small dishes which you will The dishes are surprisingly creative from tofu soufflé in truffle
(undoubtedly) order in this romantic place. QOpen 17:00 sauce to gorgonzola pie with pears. You must arrive before
- 23:00. (€3 - 8). TJAGBKX 19:00 and you can only pay in cash. QOpen 18:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. (€12.50). JNGKX
LE:EN B-5, Westerkade 37, tel. (+31) 302 51 14 11, With exotic Asian fusion tapas Kitchen Punx Acu B-1, Voorstraat 71, tel. (+31)
on its ever-changing menu, LE:EN offers new sensations 302 31 45 90. Inside you’ll see an interior reminiscent of a
for your taste buds every six months. The plates might be second hand shop, in the background you hear alternative
small (you’ll need at least two) and it might be located a bit music coming from dusty speakers and the vegan day menu
outside the city centre, but it’s a place you’ll learn to love, if is scrawled across a blackboard by the bar. Four times a week,
not for the delicious black sesame ice and the lounge sofas, at the centre of the Utrecht squatter’s scene, the Kitchen
then for the Japanese language course that is constantly Punx crew serves a tasty daily dish, like tapas or a lentil curry,
playing in the bathrooms. QOpen 18:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat prepared with grains, soy and fresh vegetables. ACU is not for
18:00 - 22:30, Sun 17:30 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (€6 - 18). profit and is run by volunteers. This has the added benefit of
PTA6UIGBK relatively low prices for tasty food and drink. Winter 2010 - 2011

34 Cafés
Classic cafés Dutch travel habits
Bagels and Beans C-1, Biltstraat 60, tel. (+31) 302 71
73 71,, Of the 12.6 million Dutch who
Although every decent sized town has one of these, it’s still went on holiday last year,
worth a visit. As the name suggests, it specialises in coffee almost half chose to spend
and bagels and even though you can get the black stuff of time in their own country. This
a comparable quality in every single café in the city, bagels is probably a direct result of
are not yet an established lunch item in Utrecht. You can the economic crisis. Within
build your own bagel and pick the dairy spread, toppings and
dressings of your choice, which is a nice touch. Unless you’re Europe, Germany and France
principally against chains, or bagels for that matter, there’s no are the most popular holiday
reason to skip this one. QOpen 08:28 - 17:31, Sun 09:58 destinations of the Dutch.
- 17:02. (€3 - 6). J Next come Italy, Spain, and
Turkey. But Holland is also popular with its neigh-
Bigoli B-2, Schoutenstraat 12, tel. (+31) 302 30 45 95, bours as 2.7 million German tourists visited the, Bigoli sandwiches are well- Netherlands last year.
known among the people of Utrecht and once you enter the
shop you’ll know why. The aroma of basil and freshly-baked
bread hangs deliciously in the air and within a few minutes
you’ll get a fresh and affordable sandwich. Try one of the De Burgemeester (The Mayor) B-2, Korte Minre-
proven combinations or concoct your own. The pasta salads broederstraat 5, Big
and hearty pies are also worth ordering. QOpen 10:00 as well as small eaters will get what they’re looking for in this
- 17:00, Mon 11:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. attractive and affordable lunchroom. A local speciality such
PTJ6GS as Domtorentjes (a type of bonbon), muffins and brownies will
satisfy any sweet tooth, while generously filled sandwiches,
Broodnodig B-2, Mariaplaats 49, tel. (+31) 302 31 15 toasties and paninis will satisfy even the largest appetites.
31,, Popular with Every week four fresh, homemade soups are also available.
the young and hip, this living room-like café serves Swed- If you’d like to enjoy it on the spot you can do this in one of
ish-style food, drinks, cookies and cakes. Fancy nut bread the cosy corners, but most of the customers prefer takeaway.
with goat’s cheese and cranberries washed down with an QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00.
orange-strawberry-ginger smoothie and a rhubarb cake for Closed Sun. JV
dessert? This is the place for you. Broodnodig can get very
busy at times but it’s worth the wait considering everything KEEK B-4, Twijnstraat 23, tel. (+31) 302 33 32 99,
is freshly baked and the prices aren’t too expensive. QOpen, www.kunsteneerlijkekoffie.
08:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. TJ6GK nl. KEEK stands for Kunst En Eerlijke Koffie (Art and Fair Trade
Coffee) and is pronounced ‘cake’, which, coincidentally, hap-
Caffe’P A-3, Mariaplaats 44, tel. (+31) 302 14 55 pens to be one of the lunchroom’s specialities. All muffins,
52,, Part of the brownies and sandwiches are organic and homemade and
Mammoni chain of Italian restaurants, this is an excellent you’ll definitely taste the difference. The staff understands the
place for lunch. Fresh pasta, delicious cheeses and perfectly art of making coffee and will gladly tell you about the origins
smoked hams are its specialities. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. and taste of the various kinds of fair-trade beans on offer. If
TJAK you prefer tea you can choose from one of many types or
sample a selection during a high tea. The walls display an ever
Coffee Company B-2, Vismarkt 4, tel. (+31) 302 40 changing collection of paintings which are for sale. QOpen
09 90,, www.coffeecompany. 09:30 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed
nl. The Coffee Company doesn’t see coffee as a generic Mon. TJUGKS
black liquid. The most consumed beverage in the world is in
their eyes a ‘beautiful, diverse, complex and above all a very Mammoni Eten & Koken A-2, Voor Clarenburg 7, tel.
labour-intensive natural product’. See for yourself if they aren’t (+31) 302 14 55 52,, www.mammoni.
exaggerating. This chain is so popular that it’s expanded to nl. A more attractive place on the inside than you might
include 24 venues throughout the Netherlands. With specially expect walking by, this lunchroom offers very good coffee and
built espresso machines and extensive training for the staff, cake, chic lunches and a stylish atmosphere. However, its
making java at the Coffee Company is an art form. Young, biggest attraction is a wall covered in plants which makes one
beautiful and stubborn staff toil at the machines while patrons believe that they’re in rain forest, rather than in a potentially
take advantage of great music and free wi-fi. QOpen 08:00 damp and drizzly city. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon, Sun 12:00
- 19:00, Thu 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. TJA6GK
- 19:00. JGW
Openbare Bibliotheek (City Library Utrecht) B-2,
De Bakkerswinkel B-1, Wittevrouwenstraat 4, tel. Oudegracht 167, tel. (+31) 302 86 18 00, klantenser-
(+31) 302 33 22 30, The, www.bibliotheek-utrecht.
‘bakery shop’ is a bread and cake lovers’ paradise. This is nl. In need of a break? Enjoy the view over the busy Oude-
the place to go for big, healthy-ish breakfasts, sumptuous gracht or read a book or magazine in various languages in
lunches and lavish high teas. The comfortable seats, the view this relaxing reading café. It serves delicious coffee, fruit
on the canal, the stuffed animals on the wall and the (living) juices, muffins and sandwiches and its chai latte is especially
curious cat will probably prevent you from leaving this pleas- good, although it’s not on the menu. Cheap internet on fixed
ant wharf cellar and therein lies its main problem. Popping in computers and free wi-fi are available and sometimes you
spontaneously is almost impossible, especially on weekends, can see live gigs at the library’s music department. QOpen
so make sure you make a reservation first. QOpen 08:30 11:00 - 18:00, Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sat
- 17:00. Closed Sun. (€2.50 - 4). TJS 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. TJUW

Utrecht In Your Pocket

Cafés 35

Vlaamsch Broodhuys C-2, Nachtegaalstraat 54, tel.

(+31) 302 31 61 53, This
Bread House shouldn’t be skipped if you’re into big hearty
breakfasts and lunches. All of its breads are freshly baked and
fillings include homemade chicken and tuna salad, mozarella
cheese, parma ham and organic peanut butter and jams. It
isn’t the cheapest place to go, but definitely worth it for the
delicious food and the friendly staff. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,
Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. TJUS

ZiZo B-3, Oudegracht 281 - 283, tel. (+31) 302 30 04

63, About 30 people with mental
handicaps work at ZiZo. This is an ideal place to see with
your own eyes that developmentally challenged people can
secure a fulfilling and independent job in Dutch society. The
small lunchroom serves delicious coffee with cakes, various
kinds of soups and small main courses. The friendly staff also
serve you the freshly prepared dishes in record-breaking time.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Mon, Sun.
(€4 - 10). JK

High Tea
Broers stadscafe-restaurant B-2, Janskerkhof 9, tel.
(+31) 302 34 34 06, Every af-
ternoon from 13:30 - 16:30 this multifunctional pub is mobbed
by men and women with a sweet tooth eager to sample
Broers’ high tea menu. We’re not going to lie. It’s a bit more
expensive than at other cafés, but the quality is worth the
extra cash. The fun begins with a large pot of tea, after which
come scones, clotted cream, cranberry jam, quiche and mini-
sandwiches. Real gluttons can extend this menu with lemon
ice-cream, bonbons, Grandmother’s cake and champagne.
QOpen 13:30 - 16:30. (€14.90). TJAG
Puur Eten & Drinken B-2, Lange Janstraat 28, tel.
(+31) 302 38 24 54,, www.eet- Out of town At Puur the high tea isn’t too expensive and Garden café Botanica B-4, Budapestlaan 17 (Utrecht-
you’ll definitely fill your belly. This small jewel is also only a Area), tel. (+31) 302 53 19 05, fax (+31) 302 53 51
five-minute walk from the central station. The interior consists 77,,
of peaceful brown and white hues and two long, comfortable BotanischeTuinen. Apart from a garden shop, the visitor’s
sofas. Thanks to the large window, you also have a great centre of Fort Hoofddijk also contains a good café. At perhaps
view of the busy street outside. For €10 two people can get the most peaceful and beautiful location in the city, manager
a mix of cupcakes, chocolate cake, cream puffs, scones and Barry sells homemade soups like the delicious pumpkin soup,
cheesecake, not to mention a large pot of fresh mint tea. abundantly filled sandwiches and fresh coffee every day. Be-
Delicious! QOpen 11:30 - 16:00. (€10). TJ6G tween courses you can find inspiration for the landscaping of
your garden or balcony in the surrounding greenery. QOpen
10:00 - 16:30. (€3 - 6). TUGK
The price of complaining
The Dutch love to complain,
especially about money and
the weather. Despite the fact
that many daily products like
bread, milk, cheese, eggs and
beer are 10% cheaper than
in neighbouring countries,
they love to gripe about the
cost of a trip to the super-
market. Meat and cigarettes,
however, are much more expensive in Holland.
The cheapest countries in Europe are Bulgaria,
Romania and Poland, where most shop prices
are 40% below the Dutch level. Denmark, on the
other hand, is the most expensive EU country.
Daily shopping costs are nearly 40% higher than
those in the Netherlands.
Utrecht café culture Ilse Ouwens Winter 2010 - 2011

36 Nightlife
Utrecht has countless outdoor cafes and wonderful loca- Flater C-4, Oudegracht 140, tel. (+31) 302 32 17 28,
tions for a drink or bite to eat. There’s a wide selection, Looking for a place
of cafés at the Neude and more intimate ones at ‘t Wed, in Utrecht where other hipsters, youngsters and the like hang
Janskerkhof and the Domplein. A bit farther away is the out at night? Members of the surf and skateboard club meet
Ledig Erf, which is immensely popular with locals. at this small, dark café at a near-perfect location along the
canals every Monday. An attractive crowd and equally good-
Bars looking bar staff listen to indie and electro music here, but
either you’re in or you’re out: for Flater outsiders, it’s usually
Buurthuis Sterrenzicht C-5, Keerkringplein 40, www. out. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Thu 17:00 - 02:00, Fri 17:00 Soul-stirring dance mixes, whatever - 04:00, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. PJG
that may be, is the theme of these popular dance nights.
DJ Iorgos plays mainly good-old dance classics for a mixed Kafe België A-2, Oudegracht 96, tel. (+31) 302 31 26
public of 30- and 40-somethings, which is quite amazing for 66, Even though this Belgian
this student town. For some reason or another everybody beer bar always seems full to bursting, it’s a definite must-see
dances barefoot here, so make sure your feet are clean. for beer lovers. Many brave souls have made it their goal to
World Dance also organises tantra workshops and other finish the endless list of available brews on the blackboard,
special events. Q JG which is, looking at the alcohol content of your average Belgian
beer, a challenge, to say the least. Find a vacant seat among
Cafe Averechts A-1, Lijsterstraat 49, tel. (+31) 302 a diverse public of spinsters, teenagers, locals, students, hip-
71 09 16,, In a pies, pets and everything in between. Q J6K
posh neighbourhood just outside the city centre you’ll find
this alternative pub with strong left wing political leanings. Kanaalzicht A-4, Keulsekade 23 (Utrecht-City), tel.
Until recently it illegally employed asylum seekers who had (+31) 302 93 00 66,, www.
been denied residency in the Netherlands, in protest of Dutch Not yet discovered by the public at large,
asylum policy. The unlucky employees were subsequently this traditional café is especially good in summer when its
rounded up by the immigration service. The cuisine on Sun- summer terrace is still sunny long after most people in the
days is strictly vegetarian, the tips are given to charity on a centre of town are shivering in their seats. The quirky view
monthly basis and you can freely take (or leave) books at the of a floodgate and a closed-down factory is more attractive
BookCrossing bookshelf. Even if this kind of activism isn’t than it sounds and the café is situated near the multicultural
your cup of tea, the supply of cheap organic beers and good quarter of Lombok. In short, it’s a good place to grab a quick
wines will have you rethinking your conservative views in no drink and snacks if you’re nearby. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri,
time. The atmosphere is reminiscent of a cosy living room Sat 12:00 - 03:00. T6
and the music is turned down enough for a good conversa-
tion. The clientele is somewhat older than you would expect Ledig Erf B-5, Tolsteegbrug 3, tel. (+31) 302 31 75 77,
in an Utrecht pub. In other words, the number of middle-aged, This so-called ‘chess
hippies is above average. QOpen 21:00 - 01:00, Fri 17:00 and games bar’ offers one of the best and largest outside
- 02:00, Sat 21:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. 6E seating areas in town which is open all year long. The ter-
race is surrounded by trees and lies next to a canal. Inside
Cafe De Tent C-3, Willem van Noortstraat 1 (Utrecht- is a small, but pleasant bar with a large variety of beers on
City), tel. (+31) 302 71 15 79, draught, water bowls and food for dogs and picnic baskets
Should this café ever go bankrupt, its enthusiastic owner, for people who happen to stop by with rented canoes.
Theo, can always turn it into a Museum for Curiosities. This Apparently that happens now and again. QOpen 10:00
place is chockablock with Elvis Presley memorabilia and - 02:00. J6
other doo-dads. The main eye-catcher is the tree-trunk which
is located in the middle of this brown café. Tasty beers are Orloff B-2, Donkere Gaard 8, tel. (+31) 302 32 16 79,
poured from Theo’s taps, but anti-smokers should probably Just one of the many cafés located
give this place a pass. Q X on this pleasant square, Orloff is an especially good lunch café
to be in during the summer when the terrace reaches around
Café ‘t Heen & Weer B-2, Donkeregaard 13, tel. the corner and guarantees sun all day long. Not unlike some of
(+31) 302 31 11 75. Not as hip and happening as some Utrecht’s other establishments, this one functions as some
of the other bars and cafés in the area, but it has one major sort of living room for people who can afford to spend an
advantage apart from its spot-on city centre location and entire day in a café with pleasant background music, great
that’s its terrace overlooking the canal. The staff takes a coffee and lots of newspapers and magazines. QOpen 10:00
little bit of getting used to as they’re not accustomed to - 01:30, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:30. (€4 - 8). TJHK
smiling, but they’re helpful nevertheless. So, especially on
sunny summer days, it’s worth coming to this bar for a white
beer and some tasty snacks. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sun Irish pubs
12:00 - 24:00. JG
Mick O’Connells B-2, Jansdam 3, tel. (+31) 302
De Morgenster (The Morning Star) B-4, Oudegracht 36 84 66,, www.micko-
323, tel. (+31) 302 34 32 06. Beautifully situated by the There’s nothing like a visit to an Irish bar
canal, this café is an ideal place to recover from a long walk when you’re on holiday. Located in the centre of town,
through the city. When other bars get packed and crank up this pub represents the heart of Utrecht’s international
the volume during the weekends, the cosy Morgenster still student life with the inevitable fish and chips and Guin-
facilitates a good conversation. The small tables, classic ness on the menu, rugby matches on big-screen TVs
interior and good house wine make this place very well suited and English-speaking staff. The place tends to get very
for romantic tête-à-têtes. We, too, however wonder why a busy in the late evenings, so you might want to get here
tremendous medieval weapon (a mace) hangs right above early. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 04:00.
the bar of this peaceful place. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00, Sat (€8 - 13). J
12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. J6

Utrecht In Your Pocket

Nightlife 37

Tastoe B-2, Zadelstraat 20, tel. (+31) 302 32 15 73, Located in the picturesque Zadel- Clubs
straat, this café is a bit of a squeeze but worth a visit. The ACU B-1, Voorstraat 71, tel. (+31) 302 31 45 90, www.
owner clearly wants to make you feel at home at his establish- Many Utrechters are a bit uneasy when it comes to
ment, with its comfortable 1970s décor and good collection squatters. But a pub with an adjoining nightclub such as ACU,
of games for guests to play with while they’re enjoying their which was started decades ago in a squatted car workshop,
coffee, large lunches and homemade cakes. QOpen 11:00 shows that this fear is unfounded. ACU has cheap organic
- 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (€12.50 - 19.50). TJK beer, an eccentric concert programme (punk, queer nights,
etc.) and a great atmosphere. There’s no supervised cloak-
Theatercafé De Bastaard B-2, Jansveld 17, tel. (+31) room, so keep an eye on your things, or someone might squat
302 32 25 55, This so-called ‘theatre in your new coat. QOpen Tue 18:00 - 22:00, Wed 18:00
bar’ lacks the highbrow frills one might expect. The Bastard - 24:00, Thu 18:00 - 03:00, Fri 21:00 - 04:00, Sat 23:00
frequently organises small-scale theatrical performances and - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. J6EX
consequently many of the regulars are Utrecht artists mean-
ing pop musicians, actors, travel writers and other layabouts. Aus der Reihe Derrick B-1, Voorstraat 102, www.
The interior is modern and spotlights are aimed at little Named after the protagonist of the
square tables often occupied by students.QOpen 16:00 popular 20th-century German TV-hit, this joint is as kitschy as
- 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. JA6EG they come. Beer here is cheap and flows in abundance. The
music exists mainly of familiar old-timers from the 1980s and
‘t Heen en weer B-2, Donkere Gaard 13, tel. (+31) 90s with an occasional Dutch classic, which you’ll recognise
302 31 11 75. Quite old-fashioned compared to the many by the crowd’s sudden and simultaneous swaying. It’s a pretty
bars surrounding it, the not too friendly owners of ‘t Heen en mixed bag; people in all shapes and sizes tend to end up here
weer claim that it’s the smallest pub in town. It does however at the end of their night. QOpen Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat
have the advantage of a spacious terrace next to the water 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. JG
and the spectacular sight of its café section hanging over the
canal. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. TJG Brothers B-4, Schoudermantel 52, Bunnink (Utrecht-
Area), tel. (+31) 306 57 00 30, The
Uitspanning Boslust B-2, Mariastraat 31 - 33, tel. management of this multifunctional complex knows that you
(+31) 302 30 21 36, Located smack in have to be innovative in the Dutch world of nightlife in order
the middle of the city centre, this café is ironically named ‘For- to keep consumers on your side. Brothers has managed to
est Delight’. Its food is decent but nothing special compared do this for over a decade. Recently, the Grand Café changed
to other places around town. The atmosphere, however, is styles and made another smart move with its recently opened
pleasant and it has one of the best, yet unfortunately small- The Clubb. Studio A12 and the Beierse Zaal also draw loyal
est outside seating areas in town. In short, Boslust is a great audiences. Its variation of styles and large choice of themed
place to stop by for a drink and some snacks. QOpen 11:30 parties keeps Brothers at the top. QOpen 20:30 - 03:00.
- 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. J Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. PAULEG Winter 2010 - 2011

38 Nightlife
Café Flitz A-1, Rozenstraat 15, tel. (+31) 302 31 74
28, Do you sometimes long for those Cocktails & Lounges
teenage parties of yesteryear high on coca-cola while dancing Stockholm B-2, Bemuurde Weerd OZ 40, tel. (+31) 302
to Rage Against the Machine and Nirvana? Then make your 73 18 77, This hip and surprisingly
way to Flitz, the only alternative place in Utrecht with a dance narrow place is known to cause amusing misunderstandings
floor. It fits no more than 30 people and the sound quality among locals who discuss both the merits of a visit to the
is debatable, but on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays you’ll Swedish capital and this cool bar where the cocktails are good
hear the soundtrack of your wasted youth. For others Flitz and the atmosphere friendly. Actually, it’s not very Swedish at
has little offer: the interior is dark and decrepit and it always all, apart from the moose hanging from the wall, and that’s
smells slightly of the toilets, but at least the beer is cheap. probably a good thing. If you’ve ever tasted akvavit then you
QOpen 20:30 - 01:30, Thu 20:30 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:30 know what we’re talking about. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00. J
- 04:45. Closed Sun. J6EGX
Winkel van Sinkel A-2, Oudegracht 158, tel. (+31)
Ekko A-1, Bemuurde Weerd WZ 3, tel. (+31) 302 31 302 30 30 30, The Winkel van
74 57,, Thanks to various Sinkel is perhaps the most multifunctional building in the city,
renovations, EKKO has been transformed from a 1980s with an enormous number of rooms, but its cocktail lounge is
youth hangout into a proper music club. The concerts do, one of its best-kept secrets. This splendidly designed room is
however, still have an edge and you can expect raging rock unique to Utrecht and the perfect place to enjoy a Bloody Mary
bands from the Netherlands and abroad and nights full of or a Cosmo. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 01:00,
alternative electronics like electro and dubstep. Concert Sat 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JAG
tickets rarely cost more than €10. Saturday night is the most
popular night at EKKO, when it’ll usually play a medley of pop Zussen B-2, Korte Jansstraat 23, tel. (+31) 302 33 36
and alternative dance hits, but try to get here before midnight 33, Not only hip and trendy people will
if you want to get inside. QOpen 19:30 - 04:00, Sun 20:00 feel at home in this stylish bar. Parents, too, can breathe a
- 24:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. PJEKX sigh of relief knowing that their children are in safe hands in
the play area. While the kids are entertaining themselves in
El Club Brillante C-1, Biltstraat 337, tel. (+31) 302 the ball pool or watching a Disney film, mum can flirt with one
36 82 30, Each Friday night this ennobled of the cool bartenders. Reminiscent of Tom Cruise in his best
canteen clears away all of its tables and chairs for anyone days, these quick young men prepare flashy drinks with flair.
willing to do their worst on the big, wooden dance floor. Every Tuesday night after 21:00 this place turns into a Tango
Unfortunately the Salsa DJ at Club Brillante takes the task bar. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. TJGKX
of rousing his audience a tad too seriously as he alternates
salsa, merengue and bachata, where a more consistent style
would suit the guests a bit better. Don’t arrive before midnight Live music
unless you like being the only one on the dance floor. QOpen Café Het College A-2, Mariastraat 3, tel. (+31) 302
23:00 - 04:00. Admission: €5. J 31 91 36, This bar has a retro
chic feel, expressed mainly through some funny looking chan-
Tivoli B-2, Oudegracht 245, tel. (+31) 90 02 35 84 86, deliers and lamp shades and psychedelic wallpaper which Since squatters took possession of this old doesn’t quite do justice to its main purpose as a jazz and
trade union office in the 1980s, Tivoli has changed a lot. In- blues café. It’s a fun place with friendly staff, a large variety of
stead of improvised punk parties, this club’s programme now snacks to choose from with your beer and a small but heated
has performances by big alternative bands like Tindersticks, outside seating area in a good part of town. Live music is
Kasabian and The National, as well as dance nights such as available every first Sunday of the month. Oddly enough, due
the nostalgia show ‘90s Now’. Also legendary is the dance to its modest size, it doesn’t accept groups of more than four
night ‘Pop-O-Matic’ on Thursdays which is free for students. people. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Mon 11:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat
For 12 years this evening has been led by one single DJ, St. 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. J
Paul, who plays anything from soul, pop and hip hop to indie
rock. Q JUEGX Muziekcafé ‘t Oude Pothuys B-3, Oudegracht 279,
tel. (+31) 302 31 89 70, Tiny, but full of
Winkel van Sinkel A-2, Oudegracht 158, tel. (+31) 302 atmosphere, this place has been a must visit for people into
30 30 30, First opened as a depart- live music since 1976. The century-old corner house has a
ment store in the early 19th century, this is probably one of gig on every single night of the week, ranging from jazz, to DJs
the most famous establishments in Utrecht and it caters to and open mic nights. Unfortunately, the space is so confined
all tastes. Even if you don’t have money or simply don’t feel that loud sounds in a closed cellar can be a bit overwhelming,
like nestling in one of the large, lazy lounge chairs, you can still but that’s nothing that its massive range of beers and pictur-
entertain yourself by checking out the neoclassical façade of esqueness can’t make up for. Also a good place for a simple
this imposing building. Security staff is superfluous including (and dirt cheap) meal, especially from Monday to Wednesday
the four enormous cast-iron female statues in Greek togas when dishes only cost €11.50. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Mon,
that have been guarding the place since 1839. The club hosts Tue 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. J6EGK
theme nights with names like Beat Gallery, Funky Night and
Disco Inferno. QOpen Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. J Stairway to Heaven A-2, Mariaplaats 11-12, tel. (+31)
302 32 22 88, This is an all-time favourite
Casinos with a lot of locals and with good reason. Rock lovers can in-
dulge themselves sitting among the guitars and framed albums
signed by their heroes, while students and people on a tight
Holland Casino Utrecht A-5, Overste den Ouden- budget can come here for a decent meal for very reasonable
laan 2 (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 307 50 47 50, www. prices. There are however some disadvantages. The music is QOpen 12:30 - 03:00. Admission: so loud it’s really not an ideal place to catch up with long lost
€5, Wednesdays free. OALGKX friends and vegetarians can spare themselves a trip altogether.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. JEGK

Utrecht In Your Pocket

Nightlife 39

Microbreweries Gay & Lesbian

Stadskasteel Oudaen A-2, Oudegracht 99, tel. (+31)
302 31 18 64, fax (+31) 302 36 73 77, info@oudaen. Despite the fact that the city of
nl, In 1990 a centuries-old tradition of Utrecht was recently distinguished
beer brewing returned to the Oudegracht after 93 years as the most gay-friendly city in the
of silence, when the Utrecht City Brewery settled in the Netherlands, violence against this
vaults of City Castle Oudaen. While the Oudaen belongs to minority has been on the increase,
the world’s smaller breweries, it’s a modern business and so be vigilant.
about 75,000 litres of beer are produced here each year.
The only steam brewery in Utrecht is situated in one of the Cafe Bodytalk A-1, Oudegracht 64, tel. (+31)
four underground vaults located beneath street level inside 302 31 57 47, For over 23 years,
the castle. Q J Bodytalk has been Utrecht’s one and only ‘real’ gay bar.
You’ll find students, lawyers and refuse collectors in this
Midnight munchies their home-away-from-home where everyone knows each
other’s names. It’s like the TV series Cheers, only the
Winkel van Sinkel A-2, Oudegracht 158, tel. (+31) postal workers and psychiatrists are gay. On Sundays
302 30 30 30, If after an from 18:00 - 19:00 the bar is packed for happy hour when
evening out you feel like consuming something other than your only Dutch music is played. After a few beers you’ll enjoy it
traditional deep-fried junk, you’re welcome here at Winkel van more and more and soon enough you’ll find yourself singing
Sinkel’s restaurant until the wee hours. Friendly waitresses along. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Thu 17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
serve Mediterranean tapas in the historical wharf cellars of 16:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. PJA6X
this imposing building. Seated on Arabic lounge settees you’ll
experience the joy of an informal and intimate atmosphere, Club Rits B-2, Bemuurde Weerd WZ 3, www.
while you munch on Turkish bread with mojo sauce (corian- Once every two months Rits throws a Friday
der-almond pesto). QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 night party at the Ekko pop stage. Rits used to be alter-
- 02:00. (€3 - 7). JGK native, but today songs by Lady GaGa have conquered
the stage which could be good or bad depending on your
The Weed Pass point of view. Despite this, the DJs have broad tastes
and sometimes even old-fashioned electric guitars make
themselves heard. Going out at Rits will provide ample
It is still unclear at the opportunities for relaxing chit-chat, especially with a
m om ent wh eth er th e delicious Limburg Land beer in hand. Check its website
National Weed Pass will for more details. Q Admission: €5. J
be introdu ced by th e
Dutch government. Each Cruise Control B-1, Voorstraat 71 (ACU), www.
party involved realises Cruise Control is hot and queer. Good
that it will no doubt lead queer, actually. Every first Saturday of the month this
event takes place in a dark squat where you can expect
to more illegal street trade in drugs and therefo- electronic music, shoulder pads and ripped T-shirts. If
re more trouble in residential districts. The city you’re thinking of American football players then you’ve
council of Amsterdam even fears that tourism will missed the mark and probably don’t belong here. Alterna-
decrease because of this ‘absurd measure’. Few tive underground people dance and chat by the bar next
Dutch municipalities support the cabinet’s plan to the dance floor while checking out the most handsome
to introduce a pass for visitors to coffeeshops. people in the crowd. Dance lovers often let themselves
The idea behind the proposed legislation is that go completely, unreservedly. QOpen Sat 23:00 - 04:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun. JEX
coffeeshops would become closed clubs that
are only accessible to adult residents of the enSuite B-3, Oudegracht a/d werf 97, www.en-
Netherlands. Tourists would therefore be exclu- Every Saturday enSuite is Utrecht’s answer to
ded. Recently, the Dutch government presented trendy Amsterdam clubs which means that it offers hip
another dubious innovation in its War on Drugs. music, beautiful people and transvestites with attitude.
Residents of Rotterdam and The Hague were The venue is a medieval cellar by the canal, which has the
handed a hemp-scent card. The card is designed added benefit of insulating the surrounding community
to help citizens recognise the scent of illegal from the pumping bass. Using the toilets costs money,
but it’s always cheaper than getting a ticket for urinating
hemp farms so they could tip-off the police and in public. QOpen Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
rat out their neighbours. The card also lists other Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun. PJX
characteristics that can help discover a hemp
plantation, such as the humming of ventilators Pann B-2, Oudegracht 245/Tivoli,
and houses where curtains remain closed both Pann is an institution and every third Saturday of the
day and night. Should there be a lot of snow this month, Pann boys and girls let loose in the biggest club
winter, like last year, the police will have an easy in Utrecht, Tivoli. Pann aims to provide gay youngsters
with a good place to go out and it does this well. Visitors
time identifying plantations. Many Dutch people dance the night away warm and full of hormones and all
earn a bit (read: a lot) extra by having illegal hemp of the profit from the event goes to charity. The party is
plantations in their attics. But because the requi- frequently sold out, so your best bet is to buy a ticket
site heat lamps are so hot, snow melts before it online. QOpen Sat 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
can collect on the roof. Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun. PJX Winter 2010 - 2011

40 Nightlife
De Zaak B-2, Korte Minrebroederstraat 9, tel. (+31)
Chardongay 306 77 85 88, This friendly café is
a bit of an oddity as this is the only bar in town that doesn’t sell
The Netherlands has been food and therefore allows you to bring your own. More often
known as a reasonably tole- than not you see people here opening their lunch boxes and
rant country for homosexuals munching on a filled sandwich from Bigoli’s next door. Because
for ages. Now, however, gays of the favourable location and a large outdoor café perfect to
can even sip their own wine: catch some sun in the summer, the place gets really busy. So
the Chardongay. While the do what the locals do and bring a day’s worth of food to go
with the beers on offer. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
white variant of the grape 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. TJ6NG
juice is a blend between che-
nin blanc and colombard, the Florin B-2, Nobelstraat 2-4, tel. (+31) 302 31 99 57,
choice was made for the wi- The only English pub in town offers rea-
dely known French grape (probably for marketing sonably priced food for anyone missing typical British grub like
purposes). The red variant is cabernet sauvignon. fish and chips, steaks and burgers. Florin is known for its Super
Unbelievably, the pink (rose) variant, a colour that English Pub Quizzes on Wednesday nights (check its website
for current dates) which are hosted by the legendary Mr. Balls
has been associated with all things homosexual - a guaranteed good laugh. On Saturday this establishment
for years, is conspicuously lacking in their wine turns into a radio station, so unless you’re fluent in Dutch, it’s
selection. probably not the place for you. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Mon
16:00 - 24:00, Thu 16:00 - 02:00, Fri 14:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00
- 03:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. (€8 - 12). JX
Pool & Billiards Het Hart B-2, Voorstraat 10, tel. (+31) 302 31 97 18.
Smith & Jones A-2, Mariaplaats 13, tel. (+31) 302 31 This place is a bit tucked away but nonetheless a good
13 55, You can find the place for a coffee or beer, depending on the time of day or
biggest pool and billiard centre in the whole province right in your mood. The owners obviously put some thought in the
the heart of Utrecht. Shoot some balls at one of 25 full size design of the place, which resulted in a hip café where you can
pool tables or at one of its four snooker tables. Sick of playing? easily spend a good couple of hours on a Sunday afternoon.
This cool place also has a big outdoor terrace with plenty of The collection of newspapers and magazines is also a nice
seating. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. J touch. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.

Maria B-3, Mariaplaats 50, tel. (+31) 302 30 00 55,

Pubs For many Catholics the Virgin Mary
Bar Walden B-2, Domplein 16, tel. (+31) 302 36 49 is the most important religious figure and Mary also plays a
82, Multifunctional enterprises such central role in this stylish Mediterranean grand café. You’ll be-
as Bar Walden are difficult to classify. Every Friday and Sat- hold many shapes and incarnations of her image throughout
urday night it’s governed by DJs and every first Sunday it’s the attractive interior here. Young and old are entertained by
heaven on earth for whining children. While mum and dad are its many games, the excellent tapas and the theme evenings
taking relaxed sips from their glasses of wine, the children that Maria frequently organises. Every Thursday night salsa
are entertained with face-paint and electronic games on the fanatics take control of the hall, while others raise the roof
Wii. Those craving some quiet time will also enjoy this place, every second Saturday of the month to hits from the 1980s
especially its large outdoor terrace and the hidden niches of and 1990s. And every first Sunday of the month there’s
this beautiful building. Q TJAGKX homemade paella and live music. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. TJEGKX
De Poort B-5, Tolsteegbarrière 2, tel. (+31) 302 31
45 72, An all-time favourite with Olivier A-2, Achter Clarenburg 6, tel. (+31) 302 36 78
people from all walks of life from students to construction 76, Looking like a two a penny city
workers and everyone in between, this bar/café/restaurant residence, first time visitors are in for a real surprise when
doesn’t offer much in the way of interior design, but has they walk inside. Olivier is situated in an old religious meet-
plenty of board games, a large selection of Belgian beer on ing hall, complete with high ceilings and organ loft. The café
draught and modestly priced dishes like pumpkin risotto owes its popularity to its original setting and the fact that it
and suckling pig salad. Each November De Poort is also one serves an incredible selection of more then 40 Belgian beers.
of the main stages for the Smartlappenfestival (Tear-jerker You can also order mussels, Belgian chicken casserole and
festival), which gives you an entertaining insight into the Dutch of course typical Belgian chips with mayonnaise. The staff is
people’s love for crooning en masse. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, generally friendly, but sometimes you get overlooked in the
Mon, Sun 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. (€13 - 15). midst of the crowds. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sun 12:00
PTJ6EG - 22:00. JGKX

De Vingerhoed B-3, Donkere Gaard 11, tel. (+31) Springhaver B-3, Springweg 50, tel. (+31) 302 31 37
302 31 96 59, Right in 89, Of all of Springhaver’s functions
the middle of the historic city centre lies De Vingerhoed. It’s - it also houses an art house cinema and a restaurant - the
always been there and it probably always will, but that doesn’t pub is probably its best asset. Its meals are big, reason-
mean that it’s boring. Not at all: it’s a pleasant eetcafé with ably priced and cooked with organic ingredients. The place
food which is nothing fancy, but definitely reasonable and the also has a cosy atmosphere and a large quantity of reading
staff is always friendly. If you’re lucky enough to get a spot material if you don’t feel too sociable. Orders are taken at
on the terrace you can stay put all day watching hundreds of the bar and if you hang around long enough you might be
passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:30. paid a visit by the owner’s cat! QOpen 11:00 - 21:30. (€12
Closed Sun. (€12.50 - 18.50). TJ6GK - 16). J6K

Utrecht In Your Pocket

Nightlife 41

Stadskasteel Oudaen A-2, Oudegracht 99, tel. (+31)

302 31 18 64, fax (+31) 302 36 73 77, info@oudaen. The In Your Pocket iPhone App
nl, The Proeflokaal (tasting room) is the
most eye-catching space in this charming castle. Where A wide range of In Your Pocket guides are now
troubadours once entertained medieval patrons with their available in iTunes as iPhone apps. Develo-
attractive songs, locals now enjoy six different draught beers. ped in association with Meta4Labs, the apps
In fact, the four house beers, which are brewed in the cellars, combine all the best features of In Your Pocket
constantly flow from the taps upstairs. Historic chandeliers, guides - up-to-date, accurate, well-written and
7m-high walls and six massive windows also welcome you at
Utrecht’s oldest pub. With all the things to look at, you almost independent information - with the functionality
forget that you can order a meal here or just have a drink like of the iPhone.
everyone else. Our recommendation? Try the Ouwe Daen.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. JAGKXW
‘t Gras van de buren B-2, Lange Jansstraat 16, tel.
(+31) 302 34 33 25,, www. A tiny establishment with a cosy and
at certain times electric atmosphere. Throughout the day
it serves as a lunch café with tasty sandwiches and in the
evening you can stay for dinner and a little bit of dancing. A
variety of cuisine is available at reasonable prices, with most
dishes containing organic ingredients. The music includes
1980s and 90s hits mixed together with more recent songs.
In summer you have the option of sitting outside, but the view
of a bus and cycle lane isn’t the best we’ve seen. QOpen
11:00 - 02:00, Thu 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00.
(€3 - 8). JNGK

West A-4, Vleutenseweg 433 (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31)

302 99 33 77. A little bit out of the city on a fairly busy road,
this café isn’t what one would call conveniently located, but
worth a visit if you’re in the area. The bar basically functions
as a living room for the people who live nearby including You can search all venues in a city by location,
students, couples, groups of friends and young families. Its
popularity has made some of the staff members a bit cocky,
and find the cafes, bars and restaurants closest
but that doesn’t take anything away from the generally good to you, as well as browse the app’s entire content
atmosphere. Although slightly pricey, it also serves good food, offline. We even supply high-resolution static
but don’t forget to make a reservation if you’re planning to eat street and transport maps (exactly the same
here. Due to its obvious popularity, the owners have opened as those in our guides) so you can enjoy In Your
another venue on the other side of town, appropriately called Pocket on your iPhone without racking up huge
Oost (East). QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. T6K roaming charges.

Student clubs Other features include fully integrated Google

‘t Neutje B-1, Neude 30, tel. (+31) 302 32 24 58, Maps, within-app dialling and web browsing, The mother of all student embedded In Your Pocket video guides, currency
bars, ‘t Neutje offers loads of advantages including a wide exchange calculator and local weather informati-
selection of beers, tasty, cheap sandwiches for lunch and a on. All In Your Pocket apps have native hi-res
crew of young and friendly staff. It’s incredibly narrow, which graphics for iPhone 4.
could potentially be seen as a downside as chances are
you’ll have to elbow your way to a seat, especially on student
nights (Thursdays in particular) when this place can get a
And like In Your Pocket guides, our apps are
bit claustrophobic. It was, however, much worse before the updated regularly by local researchers and
smoking ban. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 native English speaking writers. More than ten
- 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. JG In Your Pocket cities are currently available
as iPhone apps, and more are being released
Wine bars all the time.
Le Canard - Bistrot à Vins B-5, Gansstraat 24, tel. Visit the App Store on your iPhone or PC/Mac
(+31) 302 12 97 99, While you
can have a delicious dinner here, the prime reason for visiting now and see if your city is In Your Pocket and
this attractive place is its commendable passion for wine. on your iPhone.
Whether you order a glass, a carafe or a bottle, this ancient
elixir is served with love by the friendly and hospitable staff.
The interior puts one in mind of a Parisian bistro and it’s often
hard to believe that your only a stone’s throw from Utrecht’s
city centre. The warm colours and the wood furniture accen-
tuate the French feeling and the lovely combination of food
like smoked venison and wine make Le Canard a favourite.
QOpen 16:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Tue. JK Winter 2010 - 2011

42 high times
The Dutch people’s laid back liberal attitude is perhaps
best illustrated by its very reasonable and unprejudiced
drug policy. The Netherlands has been recognised as an
excellent example in drug control matters. By decriminalising
the consumption of some soft drugs it has successfully
reduced soft drug abuse and relieved its justice and penal
systems - as well as created an exceptional, unmatched
party scene.
In fact, the English word ‘drug’ even comes from the
Dutch ‘drouge’ or ‘droge-vate’, which meant dry [-barrels]
(as barrels of dried herbs used to be imported by the Dutch
and were intended for medicinal use). The most famous soft
drugs available in the Netherlands (to over-18s of course) are
weed and magic mushrooms, as well as other legal highs. If it’s your first time sampling nature’s gifts, it’s important
The questionable content of legal highs and recent criticism not to underestimate Mother Nature’s power and potential.
of the ingredients and manufacturing standards will mean They can be very potent and end up giving you a bad time if
that this guide will not cover this type of soft-drug. Naturally, one doesn’t follow a few simple rules: keep something sweet
we believe natural highs to be the only safe high. with you, in case you start seeing stars; keep something to
Despite recent legal changes due to pressure from the drink with you, as a good smoke will completely dry out your
European Union, the Netherlands is still the best place for mouth; keep someone with you, in case you fall over (or
dabbling with new experiences. All types of weed, hash worse, particularly in the case of mushrooms). You’ll be glad
and skuff can be found at very good prices if you look hard to know that the only known death from cannabis was in the
enough, but decent stuff by world standards can usually be United Kingdom, as a result of an illegal market which ‘cuts’
found around the corner. Look out for busy shops with little cannabis with other substances to increase its weight. This
or no front decor, as well as the pungent aroma of cannabis hazardous concoction briefly appeared in the Netherlands,
smoke wafting from the entrance. but quickly disappeared as people could easily avoid it.
Of course, this type of soft drug can be consumed in For mushrooms, some recent changes may put a damper
many different ways. Smoking is the most class mode on your party plans, as psilocybin-based mushrooms are
of administration, however, eating is also commonplace, no longer legal. This came about as a result of excessive
particularly in the new tobacco-free world which is coming mushroom use by tourists. Despite this change in the law,
into being. It is also possible to smoke cannabis without using magic mushrooms which do not contain the illegal active
tobacco, by using tobacco alternatives - pure cannabis or a chemicals, are still sold in some smart shops. The most
vaporiser (available for use in only the best coffee shops). common types are philosophers stones (truffles) and
It may be important to note for cost-effectiveness in your Mexicans.
partying that for a first-timer, eating cannabis can have a Peyote can also be purchased dried and gives a very
strong and sometimes unpleasant effect, so small quantities strong trip which can cause strong nausea, so you might
are advised. For regular smokers, however, they may be want to stick with more traditional soft drugs should you be
disappointed to hear that in our opinion, eating cannabis is a inclined to experience high times in Holland. Remember to get
much less efficient way to get high, therefore the effect may rid of all these natural highs before leaving the Netherlands
be very much reduced. Also for cannabis food (also known as as the possession of these substances is illegal pretty much
space food) it’s important for the THC (the active ingredient everywhere. In the case of weed, try to keep a separate
in cannabis) to be cooked into fat or dissolved in alcohol for change of clothes to travel home in, as sniffer dogs can
the effect to be felt. A sprinkle of hash on a muffin or in a hot even react to strong aromas left behind by cannabis such as
chocolate will most likely have no effect, as one’s stomach smoky jeans. The main thing to remember is to be educated
acids destroy the THC without absorbing it. about the drugs you use so as not to be taken by surprise,
whether by the authorities or by your own body.

Embracing the haze

You should also bear in mind that there are usually
two types of weed sold; haze, which has high THC
content and creates a strong stoned or high fee-
ling; and non-haze which has a somewhat milder
effect. The price difference may sometimes be
quite substantial between these two types, as
haze weed plants (usually strong sativas - for
those in the know) are bigger and harder to grow
properly than non-haze (usually strong indicas)
plants. If you’re a non-regular smoker, or even a
regular hashish smoker, start with non-haze, and
then perhaps try a haze joint to see how you feel.
For regular (weed) smokers (close to daily), haze
weed will show you how truly stoned you can get,
but beware as some types may stick you to your
chair, and you may drool (well, maybe not the
second part).
There’s nothing like a mixed salad

Utrecht In Your Pocket

High times 43

Utrecht is one of the largest cities in Holland, but sadly its

variety of coffeeshops is far from good. Despite numerous
scenic spots along wharfs and in parks, few feature a
nearby coffeeshop. Some coffeeshops are light and airy,
some dark and cosy and some are just counters that
supply locals for consumption at home. None of these
establisments accept credit cards.

Andersom B-2, Vismarkt 23. Upon visiting this coffeeshop,
we were told that we could only enter after buying a cannabis
product at the entrance. Not only is this a great turn-off for
people looking for somewhere relaxed and chilled to go
smoke, or even to have a soft drink, it’s also not permitted
under Dutch law. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00
- 00:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. A potent cannabis plant can be very tempting

Black and White B-2, Vismarkt 14. Very close to the De Wietstok B-1, Wittevrouwenstraat 21. The only ap-
town centre, this coffeeshop is only a counter with no seat- pealing feature of this dark room seems to be the stable-door
ing. Many pleasant sit-down coffeeshop alternatives can be that enables you to quickly decide that this might not be the
found nearby so don’t waste your time here unless you want place to spend an hour or two. It’s more of a drop in and buy
something for home. QOpen 11:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 place and an expensive one at that. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
- 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun. Mon, Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Tue, Wed 10:00 - 23:00.

Bordeaux Rood B-1, Voorstraat 81. Dark, with chunky Freak Shop B-1, Breedstraat 55. If you’re looking for a
furniture and a somewhat cosy feel, this coffeeshop doesn’t dark, cosy, somewhat romantic spot, then the Freak Shop
look like much from the outside. The name would make one is the place to go. Despite the fact that the smoking room
think that it’s a wine-shop, but don’t be fooled. This is a is separated from the bar, we like it’s stylish interior. Trippy
coffeeshop, which appears to cater mainly to tourists. Unfor- murals, colours, chandeliers and candles as well as good
tunately, nothing exceptional here. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, music all contribute to the complete smoking experience. For
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. J those looking to spend some time here, it also offers board
games, a TV and free papers on the tables. QOpen 10:00
Coffeeshop 208 B-3, Oudegracht 208. This coffeeshop - 22:00. Closed Sun.
is in fact just a counter and closes early at 18:30. In other
words, it’s of little use to travellers looking for a place to Koffiedik B-1, Breedstraat 2. This coffeeshop is more of
smoke. QOpen 13:00 - 18:30, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. J a drop-in smoke bar. The staff is friendly and efficient and you
can stay and smoke what you buy in one of the two smok-
Culture Boat C-1, Wittevrouwensingel 206. As the ing rooms, but you have to help yourself to drinks from the
name suggests this coffeeshop is actually a boat - and quite automatic vending machines. The positive side to this is the
a large boat at that. It’s light in colour, has wooden tables fact that there doesn’t seem to be obligatory consumption
and chairs, Moroccan lamps on its walls and many plants from the bar to chill here, but it does have a one hour time
around the windows. In short, it’s a perfect environment for limit. The seating/smoking area is setup with stylish wooden
smoking and reading an In Your Pocket guide although other stools at high tables surrounded by plants and an old style
literature is also permitted. With its friendly staff and pleasant British phone box. The high traffic at this establishment
surroundings on the canal, Culture Boat is one of the best indicates that it’s a local favourite. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00,
in Utrecht, despite being on the outskirts of the city centre. Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. J
Shabab A-4, Vleutenseweg 92 (Utrecht-City). Located
De Vipshop B-3, Daalsedijk 294. The best thing about outside the city centre, but still within walking distance of the
this coffeeshop, which is very small and caters mainly to locals, station, this coffeeshop caters mostly to the immigrant work-
is its cosy atmosphere. De Vipshop has a slightly Hawaiian or ers and their descendants living in the area. This results in a
maybe Caribbean décor, as the counter is located beneath a cosmopolitan, but less Dutch feel. Shabab offers a complete
kind of straw mini-roof, which might be the kind of thing you’re Moroccan interior from the tiles in the toilet to the bars sepa-
looking for if you like to rub elbows with others and hopefully rating the staff from the patrons. From the outside you might
spark up an interesting conversation - as well as your joint. even think it’s a kebab shop, as the white frosty windows hide
The selection of weed and hash is reasonable, but nothing the attractive décor inside. QOpen 11:00 - 00:30.
special. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
‘t Grasje C-1, Obrechtstraat 1. A large selection of hash
and weed, all presented under a glass counter so you can
What’s THC? see exactly what you get, is administered by a friendly blond
dread-locked (sha)man. A sunny window full of green plants
Tetrahydrocannabinol or and walls completely decorated with trippy painted imagery
THC is the psychoactive will ensure that your time in this establishment will certainly be
substance in cannabis that well spent. It’s more of a quiet coffeeshop where the Utrecht
local might stop by for a cheeky joint (or a vaporizer toke - it
gets you high. It’s also known has a very good one) with his or her morning coffee. Not on a
to increase appetite and main street or close to the station, it may be a small trek to
relieve nausea. reach this establishment, but it’s definitely worth it. QOpen
13:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Winter 2010 - 2011

44 What to see
Essential Utrecht Boat trips
De Utrechtse Bazaar A-4, Utrechtseweg 109c (Utre- Rederij De Ster A-1, Oudegracht aan de Werf 67, tel.
cht-Area), tel. (+31) 306 77 98 99, www.utrechtseba- (+31) 302 72 01 11,, www.rederi- The Netherlands has had a multicultural society for De Ster (The Star) is the only boat company that
decades, despite the fact that some of the current political can reach the most picturesque canal, the Nieuwegracht, but
leaders have a problem with this tolerant tradition. However, unfortunately its electric boats only depart daily from May to
people from all backgrounds have been visiting the Utrecht August, and only on weekends in September and October.
Bazaar each weekend for 25 years. Each Saturday and Sunday Their tours are a bit longer than the other tours (1.5 hours),
the ‘most cheerful market in the Netherlands’ is filled with which probably explains the higher prices. QOpen 11:00,
over 500 market vendors from all corners of the globe. A visit 13:00, 14:30, 16:00. Admission: adults €10.95, children (4
to the market is therefore like a tour around the world but in - 12 yrs) €7.95. TJAU
80 minutes instead of 80 days. Whether you enjoy a Turkish
kebab, delicious Moroccan couscous, Egyptian shoarma or a Schuttevaer A-2, Oudegracht t/o 85, tel. (+31) 302 72
Surinam roti pom you can find it all right here. Of course you 01 11, Schuttevaer is the oldest
can also get a Dutch meatball, a hearty pea soup or a smoked canal boat company in town and has been ferrying tourists
sausage sandwich. Apart from an enormous diversity of and locals around for 50 years. The one-hour trip through the
snacks, the large hall is filled with countless market stalls full city’s unique canal system is a must see in Utrecht. The well
of toys, carpets, clothes and tools. Still, many of the 10,000 mantained boats are completely covered and have a heating
weekly visitors drop by for its exotic fruits and vegetables. system for the winter months, but the roof panels and the side
Regardless of whether you end up buying something or not, a windows are opened during the summer. The guide offers the
visit to this colourful market is an experience never to forget, usual stories about the hidden treasures of the city and about
especially on Sundays when all sorts of second-rate musi- historic and contemporary places of interest. There are many
cians make themselves heard. Thankfully you can also buy stops along the way where you can hop off or get on and it
cheap earplugs at the Utrecht Bazaar. QOpen , Sat 08:00 also offers tours of the River Vecht, the Kromme Rijn and the
- 16:30, Sun 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri. Hollandse IJssel. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults
Admission: €3. ULK €8.40, children (4 - 12 yrs) €6.30. TJAUG

Museum Quarter (Museumkwartier) Utrecht city

centre. The Museum Quarter is the historical centre of the Buildings
city of Utrecht. This part of the city is famous for its small Hoofdpostkantoor A-2, Neude 11. This post office built in
estates, courtyards, medieval houses, churches, galleries, 1924 is the most beautiful of its kind in the Netherlands. Archi-
museums, restaurants and terraces. Discover beauty, history, tect J. Crouwel received inspiration from the great masters at
art and culture in Utrecht’s very own treasure chamber. All of the Amsterdam School. The hall is 18m-high and has arches
the city’s essential museums can be found here. made of yellow glazed bricks that alternate with arches made
of float glass. Six statues can also be found here. Five of these
Schatkamer Dom Domplein. Two thousand years of human figures represent the various continents and they
history come to life in the Treasury, or Schatkamer, in the are accompanied by corresponding animals. A sixth statue
medieval cellars underneath the Dom Square. With new, symbolises trade and prosperity. The statues and ornaments
audio-visual techniques, a stone wall tells its story in front of were handmade by Hendrik van den Eijnde. The stained glass
an audience. In the DIY cellar, visitors can browse through the windows above the entrance represent the ‘Dutch Virgin in the
past and the future of the square. One of the attractions is garden of the provinces’. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00
the Roman wall, of which large parts were discovered during - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. TJ
the building renovations.
Louis Hartlooper Complex B-4, Tolsteegbrug 1,
Trajectum Lumen A-1, , tel. (+31) 302 86 00 00, info@ Many Utrechters may, As soon despise people from Amsterdam (especially football sup-
as the sun sets, Trajectum Lumen comes to life. This route porters), but the Amsterdam School was once incredibly
will take you - 365 days a year - along artistically illuminated popular. The Louis Hartlooper Complex is a great example
bridges, churches and canals within the city centre. Download of this. Built in 1926, the former police station is a state
a free route map, pick one up from the tourist information monument designed by Utrecht city architect J. I. Planjer. In
office or just follow the orange lights embedded in the road. 2003 the building became a cultural centre for film, debates
Following the map, you’ll walk from Vredenburg to the Maria- and classes. Louis Hartlooper was one of the nation’s most
plaats in about an hour. Spend a few minutes at (#8) along famous narrators and made silent films come to life with his
the route and enjoy the changing light show which livens words and gestures. Q TJ
up the otherwise dark niche. Don’t forget to take a peek
through the gate at St. Willibrord’s (#6), where the inside of Pope House (Paushuize) B-3, Kromme Nieuwgracht
the church has been projected ingeniously onto its entrance. 49, Paushuize (Pope House) is a Renais-
Sounds abstract? See for yourself! Not all light projects as sance building with Gothic influences and its name comes
spectacular as the website promises, but the route does from Holland’s only pope: Adrian VI. The religious leader had
serve as a beautiful guideline for an attractive evening stroll this house built in 1517, even though he never lived there
with just that little bit extra. Q Every saturdaynight there himself. For centuries it was a governor’s residence and today
is a guided tour (€9), starting at 20:30 hours from VVV it has mostly a representative function. A house that is as
Domplein. TJ6 great and old as Paushuize naturally carries a plethora of wild
ghost stories. One staircase in the cellar leads to a closed
Utrecht Street Lights Oudegracht / Nieuwegracht. wall. The story goes that the soul of Hortense, wife of King
The ornaments beneath the streetlights by the Utrecht canals Louis Bonaparte, lives behind this wall and sometimes comes
are each unique pieces of art. Hidden to the masses, these out to haunt the building. The combination of red brick and
hand made items are well worth further investigation, espe- lighter natural stone, as well as the striking stepped gable,
cially those on the Oudegracht and the Nieuwegracht. make this historic building noteworthy. Q TJ

Utrecht In Your Pocket

What to see 45

Buurkerk B-2, Buurkerkhof 10. The Buurkerk was the
oldest of the town’s four medieval parish churches and was
dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The hermit Sister Bertken even
requested to be walled up in a small cell inside the church in
1457 until her death. Unfortunately for her, death didn’t come
quickly. She lived for another 57 years and only met her maker
at the age of 87. There’s a memorial stone in the Choorstraat,
which is where her cell was supposedly located.
The Buurkerk most likely originated in the tenth century in
the Stathe trade quarter, but the church was burned to the
ground no less than four times in subsequent city fires. After
the last fire, a new church arose: an early Gothic basilica,
of which the characteristic 56m-high tower still exists. The
church was used for storing oats during the French occupation
of 1672, and it served as a hay storehouse, a field bakery
and a cowshed during the later French occupation in 1695.
As the number of churchgoers shrunk in Utrecht, the Buurkerk
finally stopped holding services in 1975. After a thorough
renovation it became the National Museum Speelklok (from
Musical Clock to Street Organ). Because the church has
been divided up into museum halls, its original shape has
largely been lost.

Dom Church (Domkerk) B-2, Domplein, tel. (+31)

302 36 00 10, The Dom Church draws
large crowds for daily guided tours or just a moment of silence
and peace. Construction of the Gothic St. Martin’s Cathedral
began in 1284 and took almost 250 years to complete. It
replaced a previously existing Romanesque cathedral piece
by piece. The ambulatory, the rest of the choir, the tower, the
transept and the nave were built in succession. But by the
beginning of the 16th century influences of the Renaissance
and the Reformation led to dwindling financial support and
enthusiasm for the colossal project. This is the reason why
the nave was never completely finished. Its planned brick St. Catherine’s Church (Sint Catharinekerk) B-3,
vaults and buttresses of sufficient height never came to Lange Nieuwstraat 36, tel. (+31) 302 31 85 45, www.
fruition which ultimately led to disaster. In 1674 Utrecht St. Catherine’s is part of a medieval
was hit by a freak tornado and the nave of the cathedral monastery, which also houses the Catherine’s Convent Mu-
collapsed. The last of the debris was only cleared away in seum. The Carmelites of Utrecht began building a monastery
1826. Although the city fathers even considered demolishing here in 1468, but since 1529 its church has been dedicated
the church completely for a time, it was eventually restored to the patron saint Catherine of Alexandria. The Reformation
several times during the 19th and 20th centuries. The most was disastrous for the church and the Catholic faith was
recent restoration of the church took place between 1979 completely forbidden later in 1580. The convent lay in ruins
and 1988. The decorations of the facade were restored and until a large-scale renovation project was undertaken in 1955.
the church pews rearranged. Despite all of the trials and Based on drawings from 1636 by Pieter Saenredam, the
tribulations the church has endured over the centuries, it’s still church was largely purged of its Gothic attire, which explains
famous throughout the Netherlands due to its 112,3m-high its rather sober interior today.
making it the nation’s tallest cathedral spire and the city’s
tallest building. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:30, St. John’s Church (Janskerk) B-2, Janskerkhof 26,
Sun 14:00 - 16:00. TJAUG tel. (+31) 302 32 16 16, The
Janskerk is a beautiful building in the centre of Utrecht and one
of the many churches that was built at the behest of Bishop
Bernold, whose authority was greater than any other Utre-
cht bishop. The oldest part of the Janskerk was built in the
11th century. The church was dedicated to John the Baptist.
Until the first half of the 16th century, the architecture of the
Janskerk was completely Romanesque. However, in 1580 it
was forbidden to openly practice Catholicism in Utrecht and
the Janskerk lost its function as a collegiate church. Statues
and altars were removed and the choir of the church was
redesigned to house the city library and later the university
library where it remained until 1821. In 1656 the Janskerk
was given to a reformed protestant flock, but temporarily
served as a military barracks in the war against Napoleon.
The choir was finally restored in 1947 and three decades later
a new roof tower completed. The church is currently used by
the Ecumenical Student Community of Utrecht. QOpen Thu
Dom Church in the distance Lya Cattel 10:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. TJ Winter 2010 - 2011

46 What to see
St. Nicholas’ Church (Nicolaikerk) B-2, Nicolaas- Dick Bruna Huis (Home of Miffy) C-5, Agnietenstraat
kerkhof 8, tel. (+31) 302 31 57 34,, 2, tel. (+31) 302 36 23 53,, www. For centuries St. Nicholas was famous The Dutch cartoon icon Miffy (Nijntje in
throughout the Netherlands as a protector of children who Dutch) is a ‘sweet, little rabbit’, and she lives in style at the
gave them gifts each year on 5 December, but also as the Dick Bruna House, straight across from the Central Museum.
patron saint of sailors and merchants. The Nicolaikerk was This place is well worth a visit for both young and old. Upon
built around 1100 and completely dedicated to this popular entering, visitors are dazzled by the greatness of Dick Bruna’s
Spanish saint. In the 15th century the church was rebuilt and creations when they behold walls lined with Miffy books in all
its Romanesque style was replaced with Gothic elements. conceivable languages. Those who only know this Utrecht
One of its big attractions is the choir vaulting, which contains local as the artist of a cheerful little cartoon rabbit are in for
a 14th-century mural. As the church is plastered white, it feels a surprise in this modern museum, which opened in 2006.
quite spacious inside. QOpen , Wed, Sat 13:00 - 16:00, Sun Dick Bruna (1927) also designed many famous book covers
12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri. for Havank and Jules Maigret as well as posters. The Bruna
collection in the museum consists of over 1,200 works and
St. Peter’s Church (Pieterskerk) B-2, Pieterskerkhof is still growing. Step into another world while the children are
5, tel. (+31) 302 31 14 85, info@eglisewallonne-utrecht. having a blast in the Miffy playroom with films, a playhouse
nl, The Pieterskerk is one and games of all kinds. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
of the oldest churches in Utrecht. Its construction began Admission: €9 which is also valid for the Central Museum and
in 1039 and on 1 May 1048 it was consecrated by Bishop the Rietveld Schröderhuis. PTJU
Bernold. Today, the crypt containing the illustrious cleric’s
stone sarcophagus can still be seen inside. The Pieterskerk Dutch Waterworks Museum (Nederlands Water-
was a collegiate church, meaning it could not be visited by leidingmuseum) B-1, Lauwerhof 29, tel. (+31) 888 84
average citizens. Only a college of canons, who lived in a 64 44, Once you’ve spotted
secluded, independent enclave were allowed entrance. While the monumental 40m-high water tower in a pretty Utrecht
the church has changed over the course of time, it’s still the courtyard you might as well visit the Dutch Waterworks Mu-
most completely preserved Romanesque church in Utrecht. seum. Peruse collections of pictures, art, paintings and other
The Pieterskerk suffered during the 1580 reformation icono- items that display the history of tap water over the centuries.
clasm known as the ‘Beeldenstorm’. After the Reformation The final reward is a breathtaking view of the city. Here’s some
there were plans for its demolition, but it was saved by the more food for thought: although hard to believe, this particular
families who had crypts inside the church. For many years it tower once contained 1.5 million litres of water and was still in
was used as a military barracks. A large scale renovation of use as recently as 2010! QOpen 13:30 - 17:00, Sat 11:00
the Pieterskerk took place from 1954 to 1970 when a new - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission: €4.50. J
organ was built against the west wall of the church. The four
sandstone reliefs which are considered to be the most im- Money Museum (Geldmuseum) A-4, Leidseweg 90
portant Romanesque sculptures in the Netherlands are also (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 91 04 92, www.geldmu-
worth a look. They were found underneath the floor during the If you think that the Money Museum is nothing more
1965 renovation and returned to their original locations. Cur- than boring halls full of coins and bank notes, guess again. At
rently, the Pieterskerk is used as a Walloon Church. QOpen the entrance each visitor is given a credit card of sorts with a
Sat 12:00 - 16:00. TJ small budget for use in the museum. Inside you can gamble,
make trades at the stock exchange or place bids at the flower
Museums auction. Both children and adults can learn everything about
the value of money and how quickly it can be gained or, more
Aboriginal Art Museum B-3, Oudegracht 176, tel. importantly, lost. One of the museum’s best exhibits is the
(+31) 302 38 01 00,, Road of Florins, a path which has been created with over
The Aboriginal Art Museum focuses on the contemporary 5,000 pre-euro Dutch coins known as guilders. Naturally, all
visual art of the descendants of the original inhabitants of of the coins on the floor are tails up, so people don’t walk
Australia. It’s the only place in Europe where you can view on the Queen’s head! Other exhibits offer an overview of all
modern Aboriginal art and this private museum is rightfully the different ways that money has manifested itself over the
proud of this. The exhibition halls are spread across three centuries, a number of very old currencies and the rarest and
floors of a former bank building along the typically Dutch most intriguing coins from the Money Museum’s safe.QOpen
Oudegracht (canal). Just like the art on display, the museum 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admis-
shop is quite varied with T-shirts with original prints and a wide sion: adults €9, children 4 - 17 years €3.50. TJU
range of books not to mention boomerangs! QOpen 10:00
- 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: €8. Museum Maluku (MuMa) C-1, Kruisstraat 313, tel.
PTJHAUG (+31) 302 36 71 16, The ties
between the Netherlands and the Moluccas islands in the
Central Museum B-4, Nicolaaskerkhof 10, tel. (+31) Indonesian archipelago were created centuries ago and one
302 36 23 62,, www.centraal- could best describe it as a love-hate relationship. The image The Central Museum isn’t meant for a hasty visit. of a loyal soldier serving for the Netherlands lives alongside
Your ticket is also good for free admission to the Dick Bruna the image of the 19th-century rebellion and, more recently,
House and the Rietveld Schröder House, and there’s just so the hijacking of trains. In short, Museum Maluku is a centre
much to see in this former medieval monastery. View works for Moluccan history and culture. A well-arranged exhibition
by old Dutch and Utrecht masters such as Jan van Scorel over several rooms shows why these spice islands were
(1495-1562) and his contemporaries. Moreover, there are so important to European countries such as Portugal and
impressive collections from the fields of history, modern fash- the Netherlands, why thousands of Moluccans came to the
ion, design and visual art. The city of Utrecht is the museum’s Netherlands in the 1950s, how they were first treated and,
starting point. If you need a moment to let all the impressions finally, how Moluccans now get along with the Dutch. The gal-
sink in, check out the large courtyard. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. lery of famous Moluccans will no doubt offer a few surprises
Closed Mon. Admission: €9 which is also valid for the Dick like Giovanni van Bronckhorst. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed
Bruna Huis and the Rietveld Schröderhuis. PJ Mon. Admission: €4.50. JU

Utrecht In Your Pocket

What to see 47

Musical Clock Museum B-2, Steenweg 6, tel. (+31) Rietveld Schröderhuis A-4, Prins Hendriklaan 50
302 31 27 89,, www.muse- (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 36 23 10, rhreserverin- This could be the most cheerful museum, www.rietveldschroderhuis.
in the Netherlands! Enjoy a stroll past carillon clocks, music nl. The best way to visit the Rietveld Schröder House is on
boxes, mechanical clocks, pianolas, the ‘singing nightingale’ a specially designed Rietveld-bicycle, which you can rent at
and street organs. Complete your visit to the museum with the ticket desk of the Central Museum. You won’t believe your
an hour-long guided tour, as this is when the automatic instru- eyes in the only house that has ever been erected according
ments are set to play. The repertoire varies from the Viennese to the principles of Neoplasticism. You’ll find yourself face to
waltz and tango to old crooner songs and the latest hits. Not face with basic colours such as red, blue and yellow, typical
only worth it for music fans, but also for those with technical of De Stijl (The Style), combined with white, grey and black.
interests. You can also make an appointment to view the According to Gerrit Rietveld and Truus Schröder, who com-
restoration workshop. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. missioned the house, man has to take an active approach
Admission: €8. J in life and this is why every activity in the house requires a
certain prior action. By folding open a wall you gain access
Railway Museum C-3, Johan van Oldenbarneveltlaan to the bathroom and by shifting other walls you screen off
1, tel. (+31) 302 30 62 06, the sleeping areas. We recommend you reserve a tour in
Don’t let the bland name scare you off. The Railway Museum advance as the house supports only a limited number of visi-
is much more than a collection of everything about trains. It’s tors. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: €9
a wonderland with trains at its focal point. The excitement which is also valid for the Centraal Museum, the Dick Bruna
already begins at the entrance of the 19th-century Malibaan Huis and the Rietveld Schröderhuis.
Station which has been restored to its former glory. The hall
with its chandeliers, first-class dining hall and waiting rooms St. Catherine’s Convent Museum B-3, Lange Nieuw-
take visitors on a trip back in time. The museum is divided straat 38, tel. (+31) 302 31 38 35, info@catharijnecon-
into ‘worlds’ or large studios and the first world is The Great, Located in a beautiful
Discovery. With an audio tour, visitors are led through a mine old building, St. Catherine’s Convent Museum invites visitors
gallery, along English cottages, a workshop and steam en- to discover the past and present of Christianity in the Neth-
gines. The theme of the second world is Dream Travels where erlands. View a truly amusing collection of paintings in which
you can meet the Orient Express, fairytale destinations and Protestants and Catholics mock one another while trying to
luxury. Trains from the 1920s and 1930s belong to the theme convince the other side that their view of Christianity is the
Steel Monsters, and the fourth world, The Workshop, displays correct one. For children the interactive presentation “Feest!
many vehicles and locomotives undergoing maintenance. Dur- Weet wat je viert” (“Feast! Know what you are celebrating”)
ing the coming months this museum will be transformed into is worth a look and adults will find the medieval altar dating
the so called Winter Station (see Culture & Events). QOpen back to 1410 of particular interest. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: €14.50. TJ Closed Mon. Admission: €9. PTJHAUGK Winter 2010 - 2011

48 What to see
University Museum Utrecht B-4, Lange Nieuwstraat Military Aviation Museum (Militaire Luchtvaart
106, tel. (+31) 302 53 80 08,, www. Museum) C-3, Kampweg 120, Soesterberg (Utre- This is a family museum, where everything revolves cht-Area), tel. (+31) 346 35 60 00, fax (+31) 346
around science. In other words, you don’t have to be a nerd 35 60 20,, www.
to appreciate this place! Between workbenches, test tubes What young man hasn’t
and tool chests in the knowledge-lab, you’ll learn that science dreamed of becoming a pilot at some stage in his life? The
doesn’t always provide ready-made answers. It’s a matter Military Aviation Museum makes old dreams come true. The
of coming up with ideas and performing experiments. In the museum shows a clear history of military aviation in the
youth-lab, young people can experiment for themselves with Netherlands from 1913 to the present. The many airplanes,
their senses, light and sound. Visitors will discover that sci- helicopters and historical artefacts on display illustrate the
ence is fun and also very commonplace. Sometimes it can historical heritage of Dutch military aviation. The Snijdershal
even be scary, as is the case with the private collection of Jan offers photographs, films and uniforms, while the Vreeburghal
Bleuland (1756-1838), a professor of medicine. His extensive shows fighter planes and helicopters. The flashy interactive
exhibit includes sets of skeletons, preserved foetuses and presentation ‘Technique in and around the Aeroplane’ is also
wax impressions of body parts. Don’t miss the collection of well-worth seeing. QOpen 10:00 - 16:30, Sun 12:00 - 16:30.
curiosities from the 16th to the 18th centuries either when Closed Mon, Sat. Admission: free. T6UL
it was many a rich man’s hobby to collect remarkable, grue-
some, mysterious, rare and exotic objects like the penis of New Dutch Water Defence Line East of Utrecht,
a sperm whale! You can regain your energy at the museum’s The Water Defence Line
garden ‘Oude Hortus’, the former university botanical garden. originated in 1589. By flooding large areas of land or inun-
The beautiful plants, massive trees and impressive flowers dating, enemies had a hard time reaching cities. From 1672,
will help you forget that you’re actually in the city centre of the Netherlands was, for a large part, defended through the
Utrecht. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Admission: €7. PJ use of water. In order to keep the French from advancing
a military line was created. Centuries later, the New Dutch
Out of town Water Defence Line was made. This was a military border of
defensive works from 1815 between the Zuiderzee and the
Castle De Haar A-3, Kasteellaan 1, Haarzuilens (Utre- Biesbosch. The New Dutch Water Defence Line, which is situ-
cht-Area), tel. (+31) 306 77 85 15, www.kasteeldehaar. ated to the east of Utrecht, consists largely of areas which can
nl. De Haar Castle is the biggest and most fairytale-like be flooded. In places where this wasn’t possible, forts were
castle in the Netherlands. With its towers, turrets, moats, built. Each fort was adjusted to the specific demands that it
gates and suspension bridges, De Haar Castle resembles a placed on the environment, which is why nearly every fort is
true medieval stronghold. A visit to De Haar is a journey of a unique structure. The New Dutch Water Defence Line has,
discovery to a marvellous world, yet this enchanting oasis is however, never served its original purpose, although it was
only a short distance from the daily bustle of Utrecht. The partially used three times. The first time was in 1870 when
unique complex has something for everyone including both the French-German war threatened to become a European
knowledgeable art lovers and casual tourists. Unfortunately, war. The second time was during the Great War and the last
the castle can only be visited on guided tours which are avail- time was in 1939 when World War II erupted. Today, there is
able in Dutch only, with the exception of Sundays when English plenty to do along the 85km defensive works, as each fort
tours are on offer. Information sheets in English are however now has a different function. They now serve as wine cellars,
available. Q Opening times vary nearly every day in winter. scouts’ centres, conference centres and training facilities
See website for exact times. Guided tours at 12:00, 13:00, for police dogs. Others have become ruins. A number are
14:00 and 15:00. TAG only accessible during the ‘fort-month’ in September, while
others can be visited throughout the year. The most well-
Castle Groeneveld (Kasteel Groeneveld) C-2, known forts are Pampus, the Muiderslot, Fort Rhijnauwen,
Groeneveld 2, Baarn (Utrecht-Area), tel. (+31) 355 42 Vesting Naarden, Fort Vechten, Fort Asperen, Fort Vuren and
04 46, nl, Many Dutch castles Slot Loevestein.
and country estates were built in the 17th-century, but Castle
Groeneveld was completed in 1710 and its many owners
have each left their mark here. Perhaps the best is the long Oldest national anthem
and narrow English garden, a maze of paths and greenery.
In the 1980s and 1990s Castle Groeneveld became a lively The Dutch Wilhelmus is the oldest national
centre specialised in art exhibitions, education programmes anthem in the world. The first stanza is the part
and treasure hunts for children as well as adults.Thanks to that is usually sung or played at official events.
the charming park and the Grand Café, people of all ages can We’re guessing that the part in the second stanza
enjoy it. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: €4,
children 4 - 12 years €2. THA6ILGK about being loyal to the King of Spain doesn’t get
much airplay these days.
Haarzuilens village A-3, Kasteellaan 1, Haarzuilens
(Utrecht-Area). This village was created after Castle Haar- William of Nassau,
zuilens and its grounds were reconstructed around 1891. I am of Dietsch blood,
The villagers moved 1.5 kilometres to the east of their old My fatherland, I am true
homes to this new settlement in 1898. The houses are built until my life is through.
around a trapezoidal village square and its most striking
building is the Wapen van Haarzuilens, which was designed
as an inn and a council chamber. Practically all of the village’s I am a prince of Orange
shutters and doors are painted red and white, the colours of fearless, ever free,
the Van Zuylen family, the owners of the castle. Every year in The King of Spain will have
September, the Haarzuilens fair is traditionally opened by the my lifelong loyalty.
Baron who presents a great fireworks display to the village’s
inhabitants - 500 strong. Q TULK

Utrecht In Your Pocket

What to see 49

The Utrechtse Heuvelrug National Park C-4, (Utre-

The 6000m2 Utrechtse Heuvelrug National Park is a must
see if you’re into nature. A total of 56 walking paths, which
vary in length from 2 to 21km, are available, not to mention
bicycle paths. But even if you’re not a nature buff you can
head down to the castles and country estates in the nearby
wooded areas. One of the best bird’s-eye views of the region
is visible from the Amerongen Hill at a height of 69m - simply
astounding by Dutch standards! Located east of Utrecht,
between the towns of Driebergen and Rhenen, it’s best
reached by car just south of the A12 motorway. You can also
take a train to the Driebergen-Zeist, Maarn, Veenendaal or
Rhenen stations, which are all situated on the outskirts of
the park. From Driebergen-Zeist it’s only a short bus ride to
the park information centre located inside Natuurcafé La
Porte. Q T6U

Meandering Utrecht canal Lya Cattel

Parks, gardens & Cemeteries
Flora’s Courtyard (Flora’s Hof) C-4, Maliesingel 28,
Slot Zeist C-4, Zinzendorflaan 1, Zeist (Utrecht-Area), tel. (+31) 302 32 21 14, You’ll find a
tel. (+31) 306 92 75 50, fax (+31) 306 92 75 29, sales@ piece of forgotten history in centrally located Flora’s Hof, close, The fairytale-like to the Dom tower. Years ago the medieval Episcopal palace
Slot Zeist has drawn hordes of people to its monumental stood here, but the building fell into disrepair and was finally
buildings since 1677 and today it hosts almost half a million demolished in 1803 leaving a fallow patch of land in the city
visitors each year. The stately driveway would be perfect centre. The Van Lunteren family used it as a city nursery
for a documentary on the wealth of the Dutch Golden Age. garden for three generations and King Louis Bonaparte even
Today, even ‘ordinary’ people can partake in grand feasts issued a patent for the arboriculturist. Unfortunately, over
here, which is what this beautifully renovated building is now the centuries buildings turned out to be more lucrative than
known for. The romantic, 17th century interior of various styles a nursery and more houses were built along the sides of the
is incredible and the historical elements and contemporary original territory. Consequently, the garden’s size at present
technical amenities make it the perfect place for business is only a fraction of what it was in 1803. For decades, Flora’s
events, parties and weddings. When the sun is out, the French Hof was a neglected place, while its direct surroundings, which
garden and the Slotpark (mansion park) are also worth a visit. contain the Dom Tower and the Dom Square, are some of the
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Fri 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. most important historical places in the Netherlands. Finally,
THALGKX in 2007 Stichting Vrienden (the Friend’s Foundation) turned
Flora’s Hof into an attractive place for everyone to enjoy and
The Rijnauwen Fort B-4, Vossengatsedijk 3, Bunnik as a consequence Utrecht now has a beautifully restored
(Utrecht-Area), tel. (+31) 355 41 65 12, www.staats- 19th-century courtyard. Apart from the beautiful design of The Rhijnauwen Fort is the largest fort on the the walled garden created by architect P. J. H. Cuijpers where
New Dutch Water Defence Line. Because of its architectural you can admire beautiful bulbous plants from March until
style and good state of preservation, the fort is historically the end of April, the monumental gate from 1634 is also an
unique. But it’s also of great value as a nature reserve. It was instant eye-catcher. Cuijpers is most renowned however for
closed to the general public for years and became a paradise two other projects: the Amsterdam Central Station (1881
for many endangered plants and animals. Today, the fort can - 1889) and the Rijksmuseum (1876 - 1885) in Amsterdam.
be visited on a guided tour. The Fort by Rhijnauwen was built Q TJ6U
between 1868 and 1875 as part of the New Dutch Water
Defence Line. By flooding parts of the land, the enemy would Fort Hoofddijk Botanical Garden (Fort Hoofddijk
not be able to reach Dutch cities. Should enemy forces still Botanische Tuin) B-4, Budapestlaan 17 (Utrecht-
somehow manage to cross the inundated area, the city of Area), tel. (+31) 302 53 18 26,
Utrecht would be protected by forts like this one. Because nischeTuinen. At the very heart of the province of Utrecht is
of the size of the fort complex, it was immune to cannon fire a unique natural treasure: the Botanical Gardens of Utrecht
which had a small range of only about 1700 metres. Even a University situated at Fort Hoofddijk. More than 6,000
cannonball fired from a closer distance would do little damage. plant species from around the globe have been painstak-
But due to the invention of better weapons and other war ingly gathered over a period of more than 350 years for this
strategies, the fort was soon made obsolete. unique garden. Some of the collection are extremely rare
The fort was used twice during WWI and WWII, but in the or have even become extinct in nature. The 10m-high rock
end it never served its original purpose. The largest part of garden complete with waterfall is one of the largest of its
its territory is undeveloped and the buildings themselves kind in Europe and visitors can view over 1,600 species of
were covered with a thick slab of earth. The fort consists mountain plants that were able to adapt to this harsh alpine
of bombproof shelters, powder magazines, barracks, flank climate. The rock garden is at its most spectacular at the
defences, group shelters and a large practice and parade end of April and beginning of May when most of the plants
square. Surrounding the complex is a double moat. Because are in bloom. The tropical greenhouses offer florae from the
of its military function, the Rhijnauwen Fort was completely rain forests of South America including coffee, cocoa, banana
closed to the public until 1977, giving rise to a nature reserve and papaya trees and plants, as well as Cycadaceae, living
which is home to hundreds of plants and animals, especially fossils from the age of the dinosaurs, and Cecropia that can
birds. There are also weasels, foxes, roe, grass snakes and grow an astounding 8m per year. Take bus Nr. 11 or 12 from
many varieties of butterflies. In winter, hundreds of bats Central Station. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults
hibernate in the fort. €6.50, 65+ €5. TU Winter 2010 - 2011

50 What to see
The Real Deal Years
Sightseeing tours ago the Hoog Catharijne shopping centre was littered with
Colorbike Tours B-5, Heycopstraat 40 (Utrecht-City), homeless people at night and the Smakkelaarsveld was a
tel. (+31) 307 37 03 77, Want giant drugs market, but now all of this this has changed.
to get to know the historical city of Utrecht in two and a half Ex-addicts and tramps whose humour and hearts are in the
hours? Cruise the city with these funny, enthusiastic locals right place will show you a tour that you won’t soon forget.
and discover this vibrant, centuries old city including many An ex-homeless person will take you on a tour that lasts a
places that you would probably miss on your own. You can whopping 24 hours! You’ll spend the day and night without
either come as a group or join an existing one. Colorbike Tours your mobile telephone, modern comforts or, for that matter,
offers four different bicycle tours, all of which begin and end any money! You’ll learn how to get money for food and drink,
at the same location: De Loods. And while cycling through but the organisation doesn’t guarantee a place to sleep; not
Utrecht you’ll be contributing to a better future for a child in a even a cardboard box under a bridge. Costs are €150/person
developing country as 15% of its proceeds help to buy bikes for 24 hours of guidance in the streets.
for children in Colorbike projects in Africa and Latin America.
QOpen 10:00 & 14:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Trajectum Lumen B-2, Domplein, tel. (+31) 302 86 00
Prices starting from €21.50 depending on the tour. TJ 00,, www.trajectumlumen.
nl. Every Saturday night at 20:30 a guide takes people from
Domtour B-2, Domplein 9 - 10, tel. (+31) 302 36 00 10, VVV Domplein on a special night tour. Along the way you’ll If you’d like to behold the most beautiful encounter artistically illuminated bridges, churches and
views of Utrecht from atop the Dom Tower, you’ll first have to canals. QOpen , Sat 20:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu,
suffer some serious physical exertion. No less than 465 steps Fri, Sun. Prices: €9/person. TJ6
- and we counted each one of them personally - will take you
from the entrance door to the platform. You’re only allowed Utrecht Guild Walking Tour B-2, Domplein 9 - 10,
to climb the Dom Tower under the supervision of a guide, who tel. (+31) 302 34 32 52, fax (+31) 302 31 37 16,
will pause at various levels of the tower for a brief explanation, On Sunday
of the tower’s history. At a little over 112m (368 ft) in height, afternoons at 14:00 anyone can join the free walks led by
the Dom Tower is the tallest church tower in the Netherlands. Het Gilde Utrecht (Utrecht Guild). No reservation is required;
The highest observation platform is at 95m (312 ft). The just show up. Het Gilde is a volunteer group of mostly elderly
guided tour of the Dom Tower commences inside the Tourist Utrecht residents who enjoy sharing their love of the city with
Information Office (VVV). Guided tours are conducted in both its guests. During the 90-minute walk the city is seen from a
Dutch and English (if necessary). Ask for extra information variety of perspectives. Experience Art Nouveau, Jewish life,
leaflets at the sales desk. Leaflets are available in German, the markets, the bridges and a glimpse of old working-class
English, French, Italian, Dutch, Russian, Spanish, Hungarian neighbourhoods. Other tours by the guild take you through
and Japanese. QOpen 11:00, 12:00, 13:00. 14:00, 15:00, the Leidsche Rijn, along the city hall, the many fortresses and
16:00, Mon 12:00, 13:00. 14:00, 15:00, 16:00, Sun 12:00, the city’s surrounding areas. Bicycle tours are also available.
14:00, 15:00, 16:00. Admission: adult € 8, children under QOpen , Sun 14:00 - 15:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu,
13 €4.50. JA Fri, Sat. TJ

Kanoverhuur Utrecht A-1, Oudegracht 4 aan de werf, Utrechtse Stoombierbrouwerij A-2, Oudegracht 99,
tel. (+31) 302 36 79 05, tel. (+31) 302 31 18 64, fax (+31) 302 36 73 77, info@
Most tourists see the Utrecht canals from the safety of a, The 13th-century City Castle
waterside pub or a tourist boat, but if you’re up for a little Oudaen has had countless residents over the centuries
adventure, you can also rent a canoe, a Canadian or a small including knights, students and noble families. Despite their
electric boat. A laminated map and a waterproof bag (both different backgrounds, they all shared a common passion:
free) will ensure that nothing will harm you or your belongings. beer. In medieval times everyone, young as well as old,
The worst thing that could happen is that you might get stuck drank beer as clean drinking water was difficult to come
at one of the waterside cafés! QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Open by. Because the brew is cooked, all bacteria die during the
daily March - September. In the autumn or winter by prior brewing process. Therefore, beer was a safe beverage.
appointment. From €4/hour. TJ6 More expensive alternatives, such as tea, coffee, lemonade
and wine were only consumed by the rich. Utrecht alone had
Life on the Streets! B-2, Domplein 9 - 10, tel. (+31) roughly thirty breweries. These were almost all situated along
630 12 30 69, Utre- the Oudegracht, which was, back then, connected to the North
cht used to be crowded with drug addicts who congregated Sea through a tributary of the Rhine. Around 1930, the last
in old tunnels and monastery gardens. Thankfully, in past breweries disappeared from Utrecht. Only in 1990 did the
years things have changed for the better. Utrecht is now a brewing tradition return to the Oudegracht (after 93 years of
pioneer of a zero tolerance policy towards narcotics stressing silence), when the Utrecht City Brewery settled in the vaults of
re-integration and social participation. This method gives liv- City Castle Oudaen. While the Oudaen belongs to the world’s
ing quarters to the homeless and drug addicts so they don’t smaller breweries, it’s a modern business. Each year, about
have to live on the streets. Now you can join in a city tour 75,000 litres of beer are produced. The only steam brewery
that shows you the tough life experienced by the homeless in Utrecht is situated in one of the four underground vaults
and drug addicts in Utrecht. Guided by the people who have which are located beneath street level inside the castle. A
been there and seen it all, this is not your average sightsee- number of the rooms are designed for drinking the beer in
ing tour. Eight (ex) homeless and (ex) drug addicts show you pleasant surroundings, but the absolute eye-catchers are the
the city in an open and honest way. Frank stories mixed with gleaming copper vats that stand at the bottom of the stairs.
a good sense of humor are told and the tours last roughly Four different beers are made here twice a week and are
1.5 hours. They begin in front of the tourist office (VVV) at pumped directly upstairs. Enjoy the most delicious drink in the
the Dom Square (Domplein). Q Reservations can be made world at the most beautiful location in Utrecht and discover
by email or phone. Tours can be experienced in Dutch and why mankind has been consuming this amber liquid for over
English. Tickets: €7.50/person, the minimum costs for a 6,000 years. You can book a tour (for groups of 15 people or
group is €20. J up) through its website. Q TJ

Utrecht In Your Pocket

What to see 51

Famous Utrechters: Dick Bruna & Miffy

Many tourists come to the Netherlands in order to see the In 2011, the strength of Bruna’s drawings can be sum-
work of internationally known artists such as Vincent van marised in three ways: the use of simple colours, small,
Gogh, Rembrandt van Rijn and Johannes Vermeer. manageable books and omitting the superfluous. This
holy trinity has made Bruna big. Actually, his images tell
Apart from having made unforgettably beautiful work, they the whole story. Dick: “I think my success can be explained
have also got something else in common: that they have by the fact that I have always taken children seriously.
been dead for a very long time. One of the Netherlands’ When I draw, I always feel that a child on the other side of
biggest artists, however, is still very much alive. Dick Bruna the table is looking straight at me. That direct quality that
is the creator of Miffy (in Dutch: Nijntje), known from Tokyo children possess is something you’ll see reflected in all
to Buenos Aires; from New York to Sydney. Despite the fact my Miffy drawings”. However, the simplicity of his straight
that he is a multimillionaire and well past the legal retire- drawings doesn’t miss out on the message. Each child
ment age, this modest Utrecht resident still works every in the world recognises a house when they see a house
day. From an attic in Utrecht, Dick Bruna (83) works on an drawn by Dick Bruna. And whether this is an English or an
ever increasing empire. If you would like to see his work, you Australian house; it doesn’t matter. A dog is a dog and a
can visit the Dick Bruna House in the city centre. cow is a cow. This universal recognition has made Bruna
into one of Utrecht’s most famous residents.
Of his many children’s books, Miffy is his most well-known
creation – a white rabbit with human characteristics. The That this hardworking artist’s fame has meanwhile reached
first Miffy-book appeared in 1955 and since then 30 global proportions hasn’t change his work ethic. He still
books have appeared about her experiences and they’ve gets up at 05:00 each morning, squeezes an orange for
been translated into over 50 languages. Where her name himself and his spouse and starts the day with a drawing
is ‘Nijntje’ to the Dutch, the past years she has frequently for her: his childhood sweetheart and the mother of his
been called Miffy, Miffi or Mifi, and in the past other names three children. “Something simple, about yesterday or
have been used in, for example, French (Mouffe, Petit today. The sheet [of paper with the drawing] was actually
Lapin), German (Nientje, Ninchen), Finnish (Milla), Swed- meant to cover the glass against fruit flies, but it has now
ish (Lilla Kanin), Afrikaans (Kleintjie, Katryntjie), Tswana become a habit.” Another habit is that he then grabs his
(Kleintjie), Sotho (Monyenyane, Mosetsanyana), Tsonga bicycle and cycles to his workplace in the Utrecht inner city,
(Ntsongwana), Siswati (Potjana), Venda (Tshituku), Xhosa where another working day awaits him. Despite his world-
(Umifi), Papiamentu (Nènchi), Arabic (Naynti), Japanese wide success and his large bank account, Bruna still does
(Usako-chan), Chinese (Mi fei), Turkish (Lâle) and Portu- what has made him unique his entire life. “Working with
guese (Coelhinho). discipline on new books, just for fun. I will continue doing
this as long as I can. The stories keep coming, I keep work-
Amazingly, the whole world came very close to never having ing on them, on the drawings and the texts. I have always
heard of this little rabbit from the Netherlands, because had the feeling that I am only about four years old.”
if Bruna’s father had had his way, son Dick would have
become a publisher at the family business which had
been publishing books since 1868. As a younger man
Dick helped provide over 2,000 books with a catchy cover.
But his deep, inner drive to design things for himself did
not stay hidden for long. In an earlier interview, Bruna had
linked this to the war years, when he had gone into hiding
as a teenager near the Loosdrechtse plassen (a nature
reserve with lakes just outside of Utrecht). Deprived of
school or any other form of entertainment, the 16-year-
old Dick filled his days drawing nature and depictions of
animals. After the war, he briefly studied at the prestigious
Royal Academy in Amsterdam, but he quickly realised this
was not for him.

Queen Wilhelmina (Koningin Wilhelmina) D-4,

Statues Wilhelminapark (Utrecht-City). Queen Wilhelmina was
Monument for Domestic Forces (Monument voor Queen of the Netherlands before, during and after World
de Binnenlandse Strijdkrachten) C-6, Opaalweg War II. Sculptor Mari Andriessen turned her into stone ‘in
(Utrecht-City). Despite the fact that modern revisionist all that fur, in all those coats’. The carriage of the sovereign
historians would have you believe that the Dutch army and reveals a kind of aloofness and indomitability. The popular
the resistance movement didn’t perform any great or heroic royal figure died in 1962.
deeds during World War II, artist Jan van Luyn sets this mis-
conception straight with this impressive statue dedicated War monument Ingenhouszstraat (Oorlogsmonu-
to Holland’s domestic forces. Made of French limestone, ment Ingenhouszstraat) C-3, Ingenhouszstraat
the statue depicts a male figure standing on a pedestal (Utrecht-Area). Willem van Kuienberg created this sober war
of white stone flanked by sculpted lions on either side. In monument on the Ingenhouszstraat not long after World War
the foreground are 12 war graves and on the wall behind II ended. The war monument is a half-round brick wall with a
the graves are 12 reliefs that depict the unity of those who sandstone sculpture in the middle. The wall’s ends descend
perished. The monument is over 4m-high and the powerful, into staircases and the sculpture depicts two people standing
impressive man symbolises the courage and determination back to back, arms stretched out. The original heads of both
of the Dutch resistance. figures were destroyed by vandals, but were later replaced. Winter 2010 - 2011

52 Getting around
Public transport Trains
In Utrecht there are various buses that can take you through- Utrecht has no less than five train stations, but Utrecht
out the city and to surrounding towns such as Maarssen, De Central is the one you’ll probably be most interested in.
Meern and Vleuten. Almost all buses depart from the Central International and domestic trains arrive and depart here
Station. Local buses depart from the front of the station. If very often.
you exit the central hall you can take an escalator to the left
in the direction of the local (city) bus station or right for the Tickets You can buy tickets during office hours at the
regional bus station. ticket office, but there are also yellow machines where you
can buy tickets automatically, but only with coins or with a
Bus stations At the bus stations, each bus number has its Dutch bank card. Because of the central location of Utrecht,
own fixed departure point. With the local buses you should trains go almost anywhere. Four times per hour there are
take care, because many numbers have two destinations. direct trains to Amsterdam (25 minutes, €6.70), Schiphol (30
Above the buses there are signs with the bus number and its minutes, €7.70), Rotterdam (40 minutes, €9.10), The Hague
destination. When in doubt, feel free to ask the driver. There’s (40 minutes, €9.70), Arnhem (35 minutes, €9.40), Nijmegen
an information desk at the city bus station at the bottom of (55 minutes, €12.10), ’s-Hertogenbosch (30 minutes, €8.00),
the escalator from the train station. You can buy tickets here Eindhoven (50 minutes, €12.60) and Maastricht (1 hour
(open 06:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 10:00 - 17:00). and 55 minutes, €22.20). Twice an hour there are trains
You can also check (city buses) and www.con- to Groningen (2 hours, €23.30) and Leeuwarden (2 hours, (regional buses) for schedules. €22.60). Most other cities in the Netherlands are reachable
with just one transfer.
How to buy a public transport ticket? In the Netherlands
you can buy a ticket from the driver on the bus, or a so-called At night Late at night there are trains once per hour to Am-
strippenkaart (strip card) in advance. Each trip, a certain sterdam, Schiphol, Leiden, Rotterdam and The Hague. During
number of strips are stamped; the further you travel, the the weekend there are also night trains to ’s-Hertogenbosch
more strips you have to use. If you only want to take a bus and Eindhoven. For these trains you pay the same rate as
within Utrecht, you can also buy an uurskaartje (hour card) yuo would in the daytime. More information on timetables
from the driver. These cost, for the largest part of the city and rates can be found at the following websites:
€1.60. If you wish to go to the north of the city or to the uni- or
versity campus (Uithof), a ticket costs €2.20. Try to pay with
exact change. Strip cards are useful if you wish to travel by International trains Trains depart to international destina-
bus more frequently or if you wish to travel longer distances. tions several times per day: Cologne/Frankfurt (7 times per
A strip card with 15 strips costs €7.60, a card with 45 strips day, 2.5 - 4 hours) and one time per day a direct train to Basel
€22.50. They are available at the information desk at the (6.5 hours). At night there are overnight trains to Munich (10
bus station, in the train station, at supermarkets, bookshops hours), Copenhagen (14.5 hours), Berlin (9 hours), Prague (14
and tobacconists. hours), Warsaw (14.5hours), Basel (10 hours), Zürich (11.5
hours), Minsk (25 hours) and Moscow (35 hours). You can
Trams There are two tram lines in Utrecht. One goes to IJs- buy tickets through or at the Hispeed
selstein and the other to Nieuwegein. The first part of the line service desk. Prices vary from €29 - 199, depending on
is the same route: south through the Utrecht Kanaleneiland the moment of booking and type of payment. You can buy
district. On this route the tram is much faster than buses. You international tickets online at or through the
can buy a ticket in the tram, or stamp your strippenkaart at international ticket office at the station, beneath the large,
one of the yellow stamping machines. For more information blue departure signs. If you make use of high speed trains
about timetables check within the Netherlands, you have to pay a surcharge. These
are available at the ticket office or the ticket machine. Tickets
International buses are for sale at the ticket machines or at the service desk. The
service desk is located in the central hall, beneath the large,
The rear side of the train station is the departure point for blue departure signs. Here you can ask for travel information
international buses to various destinations, for example, and buy tickets for trips within the Netherlands or within
Paris. Once in the station follow the blue signs marked ‘Jaar- Benelux countries. If you wish to buy international tickets
beurs’. This will take you to the bus platform automatically. to other destinations, visit the adjacent Hispeed service
For timetables and rates, check: desk or book at Bear in mind that booking
at the service desk costs 50 cents extra per ticket within the
Netherlands and €3 for international journeys.

National rail tickets Tickets are valid for a certain rail

section, not for a certain train. A fast train is the same price
as a slow train and you are allowed to get off along the way
and continue your journey on a different train, as long as the
trains are along the same section. There are frequent checks
for tickets and fines are hefty - about €35. You cannot buy
a ticket on the train, so make sure that you have a ticket
before you board. If you don’t have a lot of time on the day
of departure, you can also buy tickets in advance without
a printed date. Don’t forget to stamp these on the day of
travelling, however, because tickets without a date are not
valid and upon inspection you won’t only get a fine, you will
also have to buy a new and more expensive ticket. You can
stamp your ticket at the yellow stamping machines at the
Good luck finding your bike Lya Cattel escalators to the platforms.

Utrecht In Your Pocket

Getting around 53

How to buy a domestic train ticket The blue-yellow ticket

machines are easily recognisable and can be found at vari- Street talk
ous places in the central hall. They work with the help of a
touchscreen and can also display a menu in English. Choose, Although everyone knows Amsterdam, Utrecht is still
on the left side of the screen, what type of ticket you’d like: off the beaten path for most foreign tourists. In each
a single ticket, a return, a 5-day ticket (5 loose returns you’ll new edition of Utrecht In Your Pocket, we’ll ask two
have to stamp before you board) or a weekend return (valid foreigners what they like most about the city and what
from Friday night at 19:00). Children under the age of 11 can brought them to Utrecht.
travel with a discount. Next, choose your destination, first Irene Torra from Spain: “Utrecht is a small and lovely
or second class, full price or discount (for discounts you will town to live in where you can go almost anywhere by
need a special discount card), whether the ticket needs to bike. And luckily it is not a crowded city or too touristy,
be stamped or whether it already has a printed date, the which makes everything easier. But at the same time, it
number of tickets and your payment method. The ticket has much to offer, culturally. I also like the kindness of
machine takes all cards with a Maestro logo, in principle the people. Dutch people are usually very cheerful and
- but to be sure, it’s safer to have some cash. The machine helpful. About restau-
does not take any bank notes, but you do get change. Don’t rants, I like Theehuis
forget to take your ticket from the dispenser at the bottom. Rhijnauwen in Bunnik,
just outside town. The
Park & Ride typical Dutch pancakes
th ey ser ve are ver y
A good and very cheap alternative to the expensive car parks good and the natural
in the centre are the four Park & Ride (P+R) facilities at the environment in which it
edge of the centre. You park your car here, take the free is situated is amazing.
bus/tram to the centre, and for a maximum of five people you A favourite nickname
pay only €4, a real bargain! Utrecht is encircled by three major the international stu-
motorways (A2, A12 and A27), but from whatever direction dents gave this place is
you come, there is always a cheap parking option nearby. ‘the pancake house in
P+R Muziektheater (Par & Ride) B-4, Verthorenpad the forest’. To go out I
100 (Utrecht-Area), tel. (+31) 302 86 00 00, www. would recommend the Take exit 7 (Muziektheater) from the A2 terraces by the wharfs, such as ‘t Oude Pothuys. And if
and follow the signs to P+R Muziektheater. You can take a you like beer, Café België or Olivier are worth a visit. If
free bus from here to the city centre every five minutes. Pay you want to rock, visit Stairway to Heaven. What I miss
the €4 fee at the machine and your parking ticket will also be in Utrecht is an English guided tour around the city.
valid for free transportation to Utrecht city. You can buy tickets In general, Utrecht is just a beautiful city with a lot of
only with cash or a bankcard. No credit cards. The nearby things to offer to visitors: historical monuments, a lot of
buses (Nr. 19, 28 and 39) will take you to the Central Station museums, amazing landscapes, nice bars and heaps of
in exactly 10 minutes. And back ofcourse... You can also rent restaurants by the canals.”
a bike here, but first you must register and pay an annual fee Lucilla Molterno from Italy: “Utrecht is just a charm-
of €9.50. Then you pay €2.85 for a full day each time you use ing little town with a long history and lots of interesting
a bike. Unfortunately, you need a Dutch bank account, so this things to do and see. And despite its relative small size,
service isn’t very helpful for tourists. QOpen 05:00 - 01:00, you can still find loads of cultural and fun opportunities
Sat 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. L here. And the city is full of students, like me. I came to
P+R Papendorp B-4, Mercatorlaan (Utrecht-Area), tel. Utrecht because I had the opportunity to apply for an
(+31) 302 86 00 00, Take exit Erasmus scholarship. The choice was between the Neth-
16 (Nieuwegein / Papendorp) from the A12, then follow the erlands, Sweden and
signs to P+R Papendorp. Every seven minutes you can take Norway. I didn’t know
a free bus from here to the city centre. The nearby bus (Nr. very much about Utrecht
24, 29, 195 and 229) will take you to the Central Station in but I thought: surely the
exactly 20 minutes. And back ofcourse... At the weekend take weather will be warmer
minibus Nr. 229. QOpen 05:00 - 01:00, Sat 07:00 - 01:00, than in Scandinavia! The
Sun 08:00 - 01:00. L Dutch are extremely
friendly, helpful, really
Bicycle rental honest and polite. In
Utrecht for example, you
Fietspunt B-2, Nobelstraat 293, tel. (+31) 302 never hear drivers honk-
30 08 49. ing like in Italy. Another
Het Fietspad B-2, Weerdsingel WZ 18, tel. (+31) big difference with my
302 33 43 73,, www.fietspad. situation at home is that
net. Rent a bike here for only €7/day! QOpen 10:00 you can find organic food
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J in every supermarket. One thing I recommend is climb-
Laag Caterijne Bicycle Shed A-2, Catharijnesin- ing the Dom Tower. And definitely get a Museum card,
gel 34, tel./fax (+31) 302 31 67 80, laagcatharijne which gives a lot of discounts for exhibitions and even, You can store free admission to museums. And if you live here, get a
your bicycle, rent a bike or, if you’ve got the cash, even bike. With a bike you can easily reach anywhere in town
buy a used bicycle here. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat and it’s so much cheaper than public transportation. The
08.00 - 18.15. TJ only problem is the pizza delivery boys. They race with
Tusveld Bicycle Shop B-4, Jaarbeursplein 14 their scooters in the bicycle lanes, much too fast, and I
(Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 94 25 29. cannot believe I’m still alive…” Winter 2010 - 2011

54 Shopping
Whatever your shopping needs, Utrecht has it covered.
The city offers streets and alleys filled with unique bou- Bookshops & Media
tiques established in historical buildings. True shopahol- Blunder Stripwinkel B-3, Oudegracht 203, tel. (+31)
ics should head over to the Oudegracht, the Neude and 302 31 14 61, Since 1979
Vredenburg. If you arrive by train you can already start at this has been the place to go for Utrecht’s comic book lov-
Hoog Catharijne, the biggest shopping centre in the city ers. More than 12,500 books are available. QOpen 11:00
with more than 160 venues. It’s bursting with exclusive gift - 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00
shops, art galleries, trendy boutiques and delicatessens. - 17:00. Closed Sun. TJ
In the Netherlands every city can choose one evening Bruna B-2, Choorstraat 13, tel. (+31) 302 40 05 91,
when all the shops are allowed to stay open and in Utrecht fax (+31) 302 31 65 62, Whatever your
every Thursday night is ‘shopping evening’, which means literature needs, Bruna has it including lots of English books
that most shops stay open until 21:00. Every first Sunday and novels. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Thu
of the month Utrecht also has a ‘shopping Sunday’ when 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA6U
most of the stores are open 12:00 - 17:00. De Rooie Rat (The Red Rat) A-1, Oudegracht 65, tel.
(+31) 302 31 71 89, Initially this book-
Antiques shop seems to be a home base for leftist activists, but then
you come across a book that makes a case for the abolition
J. Doesburg Antiekhandel  B-3, Bemuurde Weerd of foreign aid. If you’re looking for some serious reading on
55/56 (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 71 18 21, johndoes- philosophy, politics or sociology, regardless of political prefer-, ences, then this might be the place for you. There is ample
Located in an old church, the people here restore and repair choice in English, and you’ll find many second hand books.
antique furniture. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00, Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:30 - 21:00,
‘t Aloude C-2, Nachtegaalstraat 25, tel. (+31) 302 34 Sat 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Sun. J6VG
13 45,, The build- Interglobe A-2, Vinkenburgstraat 7, tel. (+31) 302 34
ing in which this shop is housed is an antique itself. Inside you 04 01, This book shop filled with
can buy art deco items, paintings and furniture from before maps, guides and atlases is without a doubt Utrecht’s most
1900. QOpen Thu, Fri 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. complete shop in the field of travel resources. Buy guides for
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. TJA6 exotic destinations and detailed route maps for Utrecht as
well as the obligatory ‘read about the incredible things that
happened to me’ travel literature. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
Arts & Crafts Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Galerie De Vink A-2, Vinkenburgstraat 10, tel. (+31) Closed Sun. JAG
302 31 39 63,, www.galeriedev- J Bijleveld Erven B-2, Janskerkhof 7, tel. (+31) 302 31 Peruse Dutch art by such luminaries as Jan Cremer, 08 00, This bookshop has been in
Herman Brood, Corneille and Anton Heyboer. QOpen Wed, this historic building since 1865. QOpen 09:15 - 18:00, Mon
Fri 09:30 - 17:30, Thu 19:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. 13:00 - 18:00, Thu 09:15 - 21:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Piet Snot B-2, Vismarkt 3, tel. (+31) 302 31 84 72,
Meijer Kunsthandel B-2, Domplein 1, tel./fax (+31) Who says comic books are for kids? Piet
302 33 25 03,, www.kunsthan- Snot offers a whole new world to discover for all ages. QOpen A wide range of local and international art. 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat
QOpen Thu, Fri 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. TJ
Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Selexyz Broese B-2, Stadhuisbrug 5, tel. (+31) 302
33 52 00, This chain of large bookshops,
Beer & Wine shops (large by Dutch standards anyway) has a decent selection of
foreign reading material. Literature is sorted by language with
Bert’s Bierhuis B-4, Twijnstraat 41, tel. (+31) 302 lots of titles available in English and some in German, French
34 13 39, fax (+31) 302 34 31 66, www.bertsbierhuis. and Spanish. There are also plenty of foreign newspapers and
nl. Bert’s Beerhouse is heaven-on-earth for brew lovers. All magazines. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00, Thu
the usual Dutch beers are on sale here, as well as another 09:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun. PJA6UVG
800 beers from Thai Shinga to American IPAs. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sun. J Cheese
Gall & Gall D-4, Burg Reigerstraat 35/37 (Utrecht Hooft Kaas/Wijn & Delicatessen B-3, Burg Reiger-
City), tel. (+31) 302 51 43 00. Famous Dutch liquor shop straat 20, tel. (+31) 302 51 37 77, info@hooftdelicates-
selling good whiskey and affordable wines., You can find all the
cheese you need for breakfast, lunch, dinner or for a quick bite.
Waste not, want not It’s also famous for its delicious sandwiches. QOpen 09:30
- 18:00, Sat 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon. JV
Kazerij Stalenhoef B-4, Twijnstraat 67, tel. (+31) 302
On average, Dutch consumers throw away 20% 88 27 06,, Hidden
of the food they buy in supermarkets and shops. behind an historic facade, Kazerij Stalenhoef sells cheese
Thankfully, a website has been launched that and other treats for genuine cheese heads. QOpen 09:00
strives to tackle this problem: www.etenisomop- - 18:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. The site offers helpful tips and you TJS
can even test your own consumer footprint and Zuivelland Kaasspeciaalzaken A-3, Godebaldk-
wartier 65, tel. (+31) 302 31 67 20, www.zuivelland.
see how many kilos of waste you create. But be nl. Discover cheese in all its flavours, types and varieties or
prepared for disappointment as the results could buy fresh sandwiches and cheese souvenirs. QOpen 09:30
be shocking! - 18:00, Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:30
- 17:00. Closed Sun. TJUS

Utrecht In Your Pocket

Shopping 55

Sincero B-1, Hardebollenstraat 1, tel. (+31) 302 34 37

Department stores 18,, Trendy, but afford-
HEMA A-2, Steenweg 59, tel. (+31) 302 31 25 07, able clothing made from cotton, bamboo and hemp. QOpen For the third year in a row, Dutch consumers Wed, Fri 11:30 - 18:30, Thu 11:30 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
consider department store HEMA the most indispensible Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. J
brand. The first HEMA department store opened in Am- Smile Superstore B-4, Oudegracht 366, tel. (+31) 629
sterdam in 1926 and nowadays there are 500 shops in the 32 90 81, A warehouse that only
Netherlands, Belgium, Germany, Luxembourg and France. sells good-looking products that are planet-friendly. QOpen
Expect a wide range of products for very reasonable prices. 13:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00
HEMA is famous for its rookworst (sausage) so be sure to - 17:00. Closed Tue, Sun. J
try one! You can order them by the half and eat it right out Square B-1, Lange Jansstraat 6, tel. (+31) 302 33 33
of your hand like the Dutch do. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Thu 16,, www.squarestreetwear.
09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. J nl. All of the hip new brands like Nikita, Ontour, Keep and many
more can be found at this ultramodern street wear shop.
QOpen Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Tue, Wed, Fri 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
Ethnic food & Delicatessens 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Sun.
Bigoli Delicatessen B-2, Schoutenstraat 7, tel. (+31)
302 36 88 48, Dozens of different sausages,
cheeses, oils and fresh pastas. Ready-made pastas, quiches, Games & Toys
salads and tapenades are also available to take-away. QO- Pinokkio A-2, Vinkenburgstraat 14, tel. (+31) 302 32
pen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, 26 54, Although hard to believe, when
Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. TJHGS it opened in 1983 this was the first wooden-toy shop in the
Dado C-2, Nachtegaalstraat 38, tel. (+31) 302 72 36 Netherlands. Today, it’s still a perfect alternative to all the
39, Want to impress the wife or just too lazy to ugly plastic junk you’ll find elsewhere. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00,
cook a good meal? Here you’ll find everything for a restaurant Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00.
meal at home from tapas to salads, from complete five-course Closed Sun. TJG
menus to organic meat. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00.
Gastmaal en de Tafel (The Feast and the Table)
D-3, Griftstraat 1 (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 65 80 Gifts & Souvenirs
20, A brother and sister share Prod’s and Primes B-3, Lijnmarkt 16, tel. (+31) 302 32
a common passion and love for food by making traditional 87 90, If you have trouble finding
organic dishes in this wonderful delicatessen. Q Z a suitable and personalised gift for someone, you can find
Peanuts B-2, Zadelstraat 26, tel. (+31) 302 34 18 inspiration in this place that sells knick-knacks and fun trinkets
33, Excellent peanuts for mere on three floors. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00,
peanuts! QOpen 11:00 - 17:30, Mon 13:00 - 17:30, Thu Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. TJ
11:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J Rachmaninoff Ongewoon Wonen B-2, Vismarkt 20,
Tamminga & Verweij en Banket A-3, Godebaldk- tel. (+31) 302 30 44 98, Colourful,
wartier 10, tel. (+31) 302 31 73 77, www.tamminga. trendy and timeless home accessories can be found in this
nl. Biscuits and cakes in all shapes and sizes can be found family-owned gift shop. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00
in this cosy shop. There are 101 types of bonbons available - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
and the friendly owners take care to match their shop window Salet-Frères A-3, Radboudkwartier 26, tel. (+31) 302
with the current season QOpen 09:30 - 18:00, Mon 11:00 31 48 78, If you thought that The
- 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Beatles, Queen and Pink Floyd had ceased being popular,
TJ6U check out this bizarre, yet hip gift shop. It also sells vintage
Tutti a Tavola D-4, Burgemeester Reigerstraat 32, tel. piggy banks, puzzles, games, guitar figures and other un-
(+31) 302 51 55 33, For all the finest usual collector’s items. QOpen 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 11:00
staples of Italian cuisine like olive oil, pasta and cheeses try - 18:30, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
this well-stocked shop. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 J6UG
- 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JS Studio Utrecht B-2, Schoutenstraat 2, tel. (+31) 302
30 00 29,, www.studioutrecht.
nl. Studio Utrecht has been a design and gift shop since
Fashion 2008. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Giensch B-1, Voorstraat 31, tel. (+31) 302 31 32 09, Mon, Sun. JA The owner of this colourful clothing shop
personally scours European clothing markets to find the best
items from collections that have not been bought before or
that are second hand. Apart from racks full of vintage clothes
and accessories from the 1950s to the 1980s, you can also
find new clothes from Nümph, Motel, Ato and many other
designers. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Mon 13:00 - 19:00, Thu
11:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JAG
Nukuhiva B-2, Zadelstraat 36, tel. (+31) 302 31 67 38, Floortje Dessing is a famous Dutch
television presenter who has travelled all over the world. Dur-
ing one of her trips she became familiar with the Fair Trade
principle in Uganda. Since then, she has opened two Fair Trade
shops. There are also souvenirs from around the world and
prints from pictures of her travels for sale. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Sun. Tulips anyone? Lya Cattel Winter 2010 - 2011

56 Shopping
Markets Music shops
On Saturdays, Utrecht changes into an impressive market Plato B-1, Voorstraat 35, tel. (+31) 302 31 08 26, www.
city. The centre of town hosts six different markets, which They’re becoming increasingly rare: attractive
are all within walking distance of one other. record shops with a varied selection of alternative music and
well-informed staff. Plato mostly sells CDs, but you can also
Bloemenmarkt Oudegracht. The Dutch love flowers, find vinyl, DVDs, books about music and comics. A separate
especially in Utrecht where every Saturday no less than concert hall is used for occasional gigs. Q Open 10:00
two flower markets take place. But buying flowers in - 19:00, Mon 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Utrecht isn’t as straightforward as it might seem. You PJA6UEG
have to know exactly what you want, otherwise you’ll be
overwhelmed by all the scents and colours in no less
than 50 stalls. The real flower market, where exclusively Secondhand shops
cut flowers are sold, is at the Oudegracht. The stalls are De Arm B-3, Oudegracht 247/253/266/269/290, tel.
by the water and on two sides of the Bakkerbrug. The (+31) 302 32 84 10, www.kringloopcentrumutrecht.
combination of the many colours, the fun terraces on nl. Second-hand furniture, antiques, clothes and bicycles.
the wharfs by the water and the various flower scents is QOpen 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
marvellous. Oudegracht (between the Zakkendragerssteeg Emmaus Kringloopmarkt B-4, Harrewijnstraat 18
and the Bakkerstraat): Open Saturday 08:00-17:00. The (Utrecht-Area), tel. (+31) 302 34 28 50, www.emmaus-
second flower market lies hidden behind the Janskerk The money from the sale of these second-hand
on an attractive square. Surrounded by old buildings, all items is used to house and feed the homeless. QOpen
sorts of flowers, plants and shrubs are sold here. In the Wed, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 17:00, Thu 17:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon,
spring some stalls have over 700 different types of garden Tue, Sun.
plants for sale including rare and exotic florae. Janskerhof:
Open Saturday 07:00 - 16:00. QOpen Sat 08:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun. Sex shops
Liefde en Lust (Love & Lust) B-3, Oudegracht 322,
De Utrechtse Bazaar A-4, tel. (+31) 302 31 12 28, It’s known
Utrechtseweg 109c (Utrecht- for its focus on women’s needs (as well as men’s) and its
Area), tel. (+31) 306 77 98 99, well-organised, open character. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Thu Each 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
Saturday and Sunday the ‘most Miranda’s Seksshop A-2, Amsterdamsestraatweg
cheerful market in the Netherlands’ 427 (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 42 12 22. The biggest
is filled with over 500 market vendors from around the erotic warehouse in Utrecht. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. U
globe. Apart from an enormous diversity of snacks, the
large hall is filled with countless market stalls full of toys,
carpets, clothes and tools. Still, many of the 10,000 Shopping centres
weekly visitors drop by for its exotic fruits and vegetables. Hoog Catharijne A-2, Catharijnesingel, w w w.
QOpen Sat 08:00 - 16:30, Sun 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Over 160 shops are available in Holland’s
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri. Admission: €3. TL largest shopping centre. If you arrive by train, all you have to
do is take the escalators up and you’re at the heart of this
Goods market A-1, Vredenburg. The goods market on completely covered shopping paradise. Two large depart-
the Vredenburg is temporarily scaled-down because of the ment stores, 13 shoe shops, almost 50 clothing shops and
renovations surrounding the central station. Nevertheless, 10 jewellers will ensure that you’re dressed in the latest
vendors are stationed here three times per week and they sell styles. Football fans can even buy a red-and-white jersey
anything from fruit, vegetables, fish and flowers to nuts and of the local football team in the FC Utrecht Fanshop. You
other dried goods. There are also stalls with various cheeses, can take advantage of one of the many fast food restau-
bread and biscuits as well as Greek and Turkish products. rants or, if you have any energy left, you can watch a film
On Sunday shopping days there’s also a market from 11:00 in the shopping centre’s cinema. 2,000 parking spots are
- 17:00. QOpen Wed, Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. also at your disposal. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00, Mon 11:00
Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. TJ6N - 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Lapjesmarkt B-1, Breedstraat. The fabric market at the POTJHA6UFLEGKXSW
Breedstraat has been held here for more than 400 years
and is thereby the oldest and biggest fabric market in the
Netherlands. On 9 May 1597, the Utrecht city council gave
the linen-weaving guild permission to hold a linen market
two times each year, but today you can shop for fabric every
Saturday from 8:00 - 13:00. More than 100 stalls are avail-
able. QOpen Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Thu, Fri, Sun. TJ
Second-hand Goods Market Jacobskerkhof. This
market stretches all the way to the square by the Jacobikerk
(Jacob’s Church). This is a snug market where various old
goods and furniture are sold. QOpen Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun. J
Stamp and Coin Market Vismarkt. Where the Oude-
gracht turns into the Vismarkt, you’ll find a stamp and coin
market every Saturday from 12:00 - 17:00. The market is
small and the stalls look like tiny houses made of tent-cloth.
QOpen Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Exhausted, yet satisfied shoppers Ilse Ouwens

Utrecht In Your Pocket

Shopping 57

Speciality shops Sports & Outdoors shops

Atelier De Loeff A-2, Loeff Berchmakerstraat 12, tel. Bever Zwerfsport Utrecht B-5, Balijelaan 10-12
(+31) 302 38 09 56, fax (+31) 302 38 09 57, loeff@ (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 89 62 62,, You can buy beautiful utrecht. Bever caters to all kinds of sportsmen and outdoors
handmade candles, papier-mâché items and other presents types. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 09:30
that are made by people with mental handicaps in this - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PTJL
(work)shop. QOpen 09:30 - 15:30. Closed Thu, Fri, Sat, Kathmandu B-3, Oudegracht 256- 264, tel. (+31) 302
Sun. TJ6G 34 14 99, This shop has a wide selec-
Butterknife (Spirituele Kunst en Kitsch) B-4, Nico- tion of camping equipment and other survival stuff. QOpen
laasstraat 1, tel. (+31) 681 78 93 96, www.butterknife. 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat
nl. From tapas dishes to cupboards and toys, this is a shop 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. TJ
full of must-haves. Q J
Ceci & Celia B-2, Lange Janssstraat 55-59, info@ Slee Buitensport D-3, Bilt-, Gift shop with worldly things straat 449a (Utrecht-City),
such as tableware, lamps, hats, teapots, piggy banks from tel. (+31) 302 33 42 54, info@
faraway countries. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00., www.slee-
Closed Mon, Sun. J Backpacks, light-
Crumpler shop B-3, Oudegracht 210, tel. (+31) 302 ing, tents, footwear, climbing gear
40 06 30, Crumpler design and create and hundreds of other items are available in the oldest
unique, sturdy backpacks, laptop bags or any other bag you outdoors shop in the Netherlands. QOpen 09:30 -
might be looking for. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. 18:00, Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:30
Curvs B-3, Donkere Gaard 2, tel. (+31) 302 33 23 08, - 17:00. Closed Sun. TL, As it turns out surfing and
snowboarding aren’t just for men. This ladies only shop sells
the latest and most fashionable shoes and boarding gear. Supermarkets
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Albert Heijn B-1, Voorstraat 36/38, tel. (+31) 302 31
Closed Mon, Sun. TJ 76 09, The city is full of Albert Heijn outlets - the
El Moro B-5, Rijnlaan 14 (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 biggest chain of supermarkets in the Netherlands. QOpen
66 71 77,, Exclusive 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
North African items and nick-nacks for the interior. QOpen Super De Boer C-1, Biltstraat 74, tel. (+31) 302 75
09:00 - 18:00, Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed 30 10. Large chain of supermarkets known for its fresh
Sun. T6L products.
Keurslijf B-3, Korte Nieuwstraat 31, tel. (+31) 624 86
21 30,, If you don’t wish
to marry in virgin white, or if you simply love colourful dresses Sweets
that would be appropriate on the set of Grease, take a look Drop-Inn Vinkenburgstraat 2, tel. (+31) 302 31 67 21.
at Keurslijf. Wedding dresses are tailor-made, often in the What would the Dutch do without their liquorice? Luckily in
styles of the 1950s and 1960s. Q J Utrecht you can go to Drop-Inn, a typical Dutch candy store. It
Labyrinth B-3, Oudegracht 207, tel. (+31) 302 81 71 also offers the usual and not so common souvenirs.
57,, Jamin A-2, Radboudtraverse 14 Hoog Catharijne, tel.
Books, games and lifestyle dominate this fantasyshop, where (+31) 302 31 49 78, The place to be for
elves and dragons make the rules. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, sugar addicts. Q T
Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. TJ
Laced Up B-2, Korte Jansstraat 8, tel. (+31) 302 33
32 66,, Laced-Up
Tea ’n’ Bitch
& Coffee shops
Boutique is Utrecht’s best source of men’s and women’s Brandmeester’s B-2, Korte
fetishwear, BDSM tools and quality adult toys. Q Open I f you’re5, into
Jansstraat knit ting
tel. (+31) 302
11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:30. Closed there’s no reason why
Mon, Sun. J you should do it alone.
L’etoile de Constantine B-3, Zadelstraat 4, tel. (+31) Bring your yarn and nee-
302 31 89 93, Arabian- dles every Tuesday night
style lamps and other traditional crafts from the Middle East at 19:30 to De Winkel
can be found in this contemporary design shop. QOpen Van Sinkel and share your
11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. J
passion for knitting with
Marlboro Classics B-3, Lijnmarkt 20, tel. (+31) 302 like-minded people. Get
33 35 38,, www.marlboroclassics. inspired by local knitting
com. Always wanted to be like the rough-and-rugged Marlboro traditions, exchange pat-
man? This is your chance in this warm, modern and well- terns, learn typical Dutch knitting techniques and
equipped shop. Lots of women’s apparel is also available. in the meantime drink a delicious cup of Koffie
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 Verkeerd (white coffee) or, even better, a pint of
- 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Sun. JA beer. Stitch ’n’ Bitch Utrecht began in February of
Revenge A-2, Vredenburg 34, tel. (+31) 302 31 48 20,, What are 2005 and grew from a small group of only five or
the two basic needs of 2011’s youth? That your hair looks six regular knitters to as many as 25 participants
great and that your cloths are ‘in’. These two elements are varying in age from 20 - 90. Although other S ’n’ B
united at Revenge. Also sells spray paint cans for street art- groups gather across the country, Utrecht’s group
ists. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Mon 13:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 is one of the best attended.
- 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JU Winter 2010 - 2011

58 Sports & Leisure
Ballooning Football: FC Utrecht
Kool Balloon Ballonvaarten B-3, Otto Hahnweg 11,
De Bilt (Utrecht-Area), tel. (+31) 302 20 41 88, info@ The most well-known Utrecht football player, Wes-, A breathtaking ad- ley Sneijder, never actually defended FC Utrecht’s
venture with amazing views. beautiful red-and-white. For years, however, Inter
Red Balloon Passagiersvaarten B-3, ‘t Loo 10,
Maartensdijk (Utrecht-Area), tel. (+31) 346 21 29 63, Milan’s star player did wear the cursed red-and-, The aviation white of Utrecht’s archenemy Ajax from Amster-
adventure of lifetime begins here. dam. With its 25,000 seat capacity FC Utrecht’s
stadium may be half the size of the Ajax Arena, but
Billiards & Pool fanatical supporters still manage to make a whole
lot more noise at their home games at the cosy
Poolcentrum ‘t hart van Utrecht. B-2, Ganzemarkt Galgenwaard. FC Utrecht was founded in 1970
16, tel. (+31) 302 33 23 15, info@poolcafehartvanu-, This pool hall
after a fusion of three professional football clubs
boasts 12 original American pool tables. in Utrecht: DOS (founded in 1901 and national
Smith & Jones Poolcentrum A-2, Mariaplaats 13, tel. champion in 1958), Velox (founded in 1902) and
(+31) 302 31 13 55, Elinkwijk (founded in 1919). This year, European
You can play 8-ball, 9-ball or straight pool on one of its 25 pool superpowers such as Napoli, Liverpool and Steau
tables, but if you prefer snooker you should reserve a table. Bucharest experienced Utrecht’s fighting spirit
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. first hand during the team’s campaign led by coach
Ton du Chatinier.
Boat trips Home games are usually held on Sunday after-
Ahoy Rondvaarten B-4, Oudegracht 345/WERF, tel. noons at 14:30. The Galgenwaard Statium is
(+31) 302 36 78 55,, www. located at the edge of the city at Herculesplein Check out Utrecht with a fluisterboot 24 and is easily accessible by motorway. Tickets
(whisper boat) or a ‘streeker’ boat on a boat trip of the are sold at 400 TicketBox sales points across
canals. the Netherlands or at one of 28 official football
Schuttevaer A-1, Weerdsingel 4, tel. (+31) 302 72 club websites. For a reservation call the ticket
01 11,, w w w.schuttevaer.
com/contact.php. Schuttevaer is the oldest canal boat
office: tel. (+31) 308 88 55 55 or send an email
company in town and has been ferrying tourists and locals to: Tickets range in price
around for 50 years. from €21 - €34.

Bison Bowling A-3, Mariaplaats 13, tel. (+31) 302
31 18 55,, This
friendly place offers plenty of bowling lanes not to mention
Mitland Bowling
E-3, Arienslaan 1 (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 71 20 13,
fax (+31) 302 71 90 03,, www.mitland. Upcoming fixtures:
nl. The oldest bowling alley in Utrecht has been renovated and January
now includes the coolest, most modern gadgets. QOpen Date Time Match Venue
17:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 17:00 - 24:00, Sat 17:00 - 01:00, 23 12:30 FC Utrecht v. Ajax SG
Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
6 14:30 FC Utrecht v. FC Twente SG
Dance classes 18 20:45 FC Utrecht v. Heracles Almelo SG
Tango La Zapada B-3, Catharijnesteeg 6, tel. (+31) March
302 23 89 27,, www.tangolaza- 6 14:30 FC Utrecht v. Roda JC SG Utrecht’s favourite Tango school. 13 14:30 FC Utrecht v. FC Groningen SG
Union Salsa Dansschool Photo courtesy of FC Utrecht. Matches take place
B-3, Oudegracht 254, tel. (+31) 653 61 66 66, info@ at Galgenwaard Stadium:, This organisation
promotes the South-American lifestyle and its culture with Galgenwaard E-5, Herculesplein 24 (Utrecht-City),
dance classes, parties and Portuguese and Spanish language This stadium is hallowed ground for
courses. Q JG all FC Utrecht football fans.

Aaa Diving A-3, Reigerskamp 633, Maarssen (Utrecht-
Area), tel. (+31) 346 56 87 66. Get certified here so you
can go diving on your next trip. Q
Jos vd Hurk Duiksport shop
D-3, Bekkerstraat 63 (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302
71 56 03.

Utrecht In Your Pocket

Sports & leisure 59

Press Box
“Solid, reliable information on everything from
where to book a reasonable B&B to how best
to spend 72 hours in a city.”
The Guardian

“You do not even need to pack a guidebook:

just pick up an In Your Pocket when you
Simon Calder
The Independent & LBC Radio
Canal tour Lya Cattel “In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series
of guidebooks.”
Fitness & Gyms The New York Times
David Lloyd, Utrecht B-3, Mississippidreef 161 (Utre-
cht-Area), tel. (+31) 302 64 40 00, “Most of the traditional guidebook companies
This modern sports club and gym has all the latest fitness
and sports facilities. A spa and swimming pool are also avail- now have decent websites, with plenty of advi-
able. Q UFLGDCW ce and information either freely available or
Sport Instituut Galgenwaard E-5, Herculesplein 327 downloadable for a fee, but
(Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 54 12 12, info@sig-utre- is also well worth a browse. Concentrating on, both well-known and more offbeat European
destinations, its free downloadable city and
Horseback riding country guides are compiled by locals and
Groenesteyn Manege E-3, Biltsestraatweg 88 regularly updated.”
(Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 71 96 75, www.manege- The Independent This riding school with 30 horses and ponies
is available to people of all ages and skill levels. QOpen “The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is
09:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. that, unlike many expensive travel guides,
‘t Hoogt Manege B-3, Gageldijk 104/A (Utrecht-Area), they are written by native English speakers
tel./fax (+31) 302 61 87 80. living in the city they are writing about. That
can lend itself to frank, matter-of-fact advice
Karting about your destination rather than jaded
Kartfabrique B-3, Westkanaaldijk 7 (Utrecht-Area), tel. impressions from world-weary professional
(+31) 302 40 40 40, Speeds of up travel writers.”
to 60km/hour will keep the F1 driver in you satisfied! After the The Irish Times
race, drinks can be had on the old benches of a Fokker aircraft.
QOpen Tue, Thu, Fri 16:00 - 24:00, Wed 13:30 - 24:00, Sat “With so many European cities now within
13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. T
easy range of a low-cost airline flight, this web-
site is a (literally) priceless first stop before
Paintball & Laser tag your holiday. The guides are free to download
Lasercombat C-4, Laan van Vollenhove 2235, Zeist and print off as pdfs and have information
(Utrecht-Area), tel. (+31) 619 62 48 70, www.lasercom- on where to eat and stay and what to see on Want to know what it’s like to be Jack Bauer but with European city breaks.”
lasers? Pay these guys a visit. Q Admission: €15.
The Times
Tennis courts “In Your Pocket guides are each written by an
Overvecht-Noord Tennispark B-3, 2e Polderweg 11 English language writer who lives locally. All
(Utrecht-Area), tel. (+31) 302 61 77 82. information is also available on the publisher’s
Rijnsweerd Tennispark E-5, Weg naar Rhijnauwen website.”
5/D (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 51 30 00, bestuur@ Sueddeutsche Zeitung, Q
“The In Your Pocket series of guide booklets
Water parks have turned out to be highly useful in avoiding
De Kwakel Zwembad B-1, Paranadreef 10 (Utrecht tourist traps and other travel hazards. A mix of
City), tel. (+31) 302 86 27 00. Suburban swimming pool. Lonely Planet and Time Out, they have beco-
Den Hommel Aquacenter A-4, Kennedylaan 5 (Utre- me a European publishing phenomenon.”
cht-City), tel. (+31) 302 86 24 00, DenHommel@Utre- International Herald Tribune The Bumblebee swimming pool is ideal for children.
Q TFDC Winter 2010 - 2011

60 health & wellness
Dentists Bike heaven
Oelp Hoogh Bollandt Tandartspraktijk A-4, Cath-
arijnesingel 77, tel. (+31) 302 31 96 25, fax (+31) 302 For years Dutch employers
30 09 69,, This have reimbursed the purchase
multilingual dentist can fix your cavities or whiten your teeth. of a bicycle for employers
QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. who cycle to work. Since the
Verstand Tandartspraktijk B-5, Groenmarktstraat end of 2009, however, the
1 (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 99 11 20, verstand@ following law was passed by, QOpen
08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. former government parties:
employees with an electric
bicycle or scooter will receive
Doctors a reimbursement of 19 euro
Catharijne Singel mw Drs A Kruishoop & Mw Dr cents per kilometre. This is
M D S Becker B-5, Catharijnesingel 106, tel. (+31) paid for from taxes on polluting taxis, so skip the
302 31 68 59, Online information queue at the petrol pump and start pedalling!
about GPs in Utrecht.
Weerdsingel Huisartsenpraktijk A-1, Weerdsingel
40, tel. (+31) 302 31 34 77, fax (+31) 302 34 21 07, Spas & Beauty
De Heuvelrug Sauna & Beauty-Thermen Dijkstraat-
West 189, Veenendaal, tel. (+31) 318 52 03 21, info@
Hospitals, With
Medisch Centrum Biltstraat D-3, Biltstraat 397/423 indoor and outdoors saunas, not to mention a hammam, this
(Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 33 35 42, medischcen- is the right place to relax. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. KDC, www.medischcentrum- Evita A-3, Amsterdamsestraatweg 277 (Urecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 23 06 53,
Universitair Medisch Centrum Utrecht (UMC Evita is a great option if you’re through with temporary hair
Utrecht) B-4, Heidelberglaan 100 (Utrecht-Area), tel. removal techniques such as shaving or waxing, and prefer a
(+31) 887 55 55 55, This hospital permanent solution once and for all. Your wallet will be con-
combines health care with education and research. It’s also siderably lighter after a treatment, but itchiness and other
a well-known children’s hospital. irritations of the skin will belong to the past. QOpen 10:00
- 17:30. Closed Sun. UL
Sauna Descansa C-1, Biltstraat 6-8, tel. (+31) 302 71
Massage 18 08, A completely different world is
Monique Kolfschoten C-3, Van Brakelstraat 18/BIS hidden behind a gate on the Biltstraat: a dreamy place that
(Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 71 83 98, qimono@ smells of eucalyptus and incense. The stylish, attractively, Besides giving furnished rooms each have their own design so you can
massages, Monique Kolfschoten is also a speech therapist, imagine that you’re in Greece, Morocco or even India. The
voice coach for professional speakers and actors and a rooftop terrace is equipped with large bean-bags, bamboo
body-oriented therapist. and even apples and raspberries to snack on. Two Finnish
saunas, a steam bath, an infrared cabin and swimming pool
Pharmacies are all available for only €19.50. Ladies only on Tuesdays.
QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. JAGKDC
Kring-Apotheek Wilhelmina D-4, Burg Reigerstraat Sauna Lamar B-7, Jutfaseweg 223, tel. (+31) 302 89
47 (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 51 37 12, fax (+31) 83 59, Lamar’s three saunas, Turkish
302 51 60 12,, www. bath and infrared cabin will keep you warm and relaxed to say QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 the least. Its somewhat kitsch murals won’t win any design
- 15:00. Closed Sun. contests, but it does offer friendly service. The lounge with
Liefde’s Centraal Apotheek (A-2) Voorstraat 6, magazines and comfortable sink-in sofas is especially cosy.
tel. (+31) 302 31 01 13. The so-called Love Pharmacy is Ladies only on Wednesday. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00
located in Utrecht’s most famous Art Nouveau building. - 22:00. PTGKDC
Zonnestudio Sun Factor B-5, Balijelaan 18 (Utrecht-
City), tel. (+31) 302 89 82 23, For
more than 14 years Sun Factor has been a reliable place to
change your skin’s pigmentation, so give it a go if you need
some vitamin D. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00. G

Vets & Pets

Biltstraat Dierenkliniek C/1, Biltstraat 455, tel.
(+31) 302 31 09 86,, This vet clinic is located
just a few minutes out of town.
Vossegat Dierenkliniek D-5, Adriaen van Ostadelaan
44 (Utrecht City), tel. (+31) 302 25 07 07, www.dier- Every sick animal is treated like a king
You might need some spa time after these Lya Cattel in this friendly veterinary clinic.

Utrecht In Your Pocket

liefstyle directory 61

Couriers & Post Libraries

DHL Express B-3, Rutherfordweg 1 (Utrecht-Area), tel. Centrale Bibliotheek A-2, Oudegracht 167, tel. (+31)
(+31) 800 05 52, QOpen 08.00 - 19.00, Sat 302 86 18 00, You can wan-
09.00 - 13.00. Closed Sun. der around this library for hours looking for books or music.
TNT Postkantoor A-2, Neude 11, Cen- QOpen Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Tue, Wed, Fri 11:00 - 18:00, Thu
trally located post office. 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Dry cleaners Observatories

De Diamanten Stomerij  B-4, Twijnstraat 77, tel. Sonnenborgh C-4, Zonnenburg 2, tel. (+31) 302 33
(+31) 302 38 00 42. 44 02, Discover the secrets of this
16th-century bastion and climb the stairs up to the telescope
DVD rental to gaze at the stars.

Edgar Hoover Film B-4, Twijnstraat 7, tel. (+31) 302

36 98 80,, www.edgar- Real estate Specialies in arthouse or cult fims. QOpen
14:00 - 22:00, Mon 16:00 - 22:00. Maxx Vastgoed Utrecht BV
Movie MAX Moviestores C-2, Nachtegaalstraat 67, C-1, Biltstraat 34, tel. (+31)
tel. (+31) 302 31 93 67, Rent the 302 71 10 11, info@maxxutre-
latest movies here. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00., w w w.maxxvastgoed.
nl. Maxx is the local specialist in providing and seeking
Hairdressers & Barbers residential accommodation for expats and locals.

Blitzz Hairstyling D-5, Adriaen van Ostadelaan 23 Rots Vast Groep Utrecht A-1, Oudegracht 2, tel.
(Utrecht City), tel. (+31) 302 54 00 57, www.hairstyling- (+31) 302 31 94 00, fax (+31) 302 31 50 69, utrecht@ Miranda is the friendly owner of this stylish shop., Private and commercial real
De Kappers Nobelstraat 153, Zeist, tel. (+31) 302 31 estate. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
70 14, Students get a discount and the
queues are never long. Specialises in trendy haircuts. QO-
pen 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 12:30 - 18:00, Tue 09:00 - 18:00, Translators & Interpreters
Wed 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Horner Translations D-4, Bloemstraat 3bis (Utrecht-
Haarhoek Coiffures Voorstraat 37, tel. (+31) 302 City), tel. (+31) 302 76 71 11,, www.
36 75 08, You can even make an ap- Are you looking for an expert German-speaker to
pointment for a stylish new haircut at one of two locations serve as a translator? The people here speak all varieties
online. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 21:00. Also at of German from the dialects spoken in Germany to those of
Donkerstraat 10. J Austria, Liechtenstein and Switzerland.
Kinki Kappers B-3, Oudegracht 198, tel. (+31) 302 32 Isa McKechnie Tel. (+31) 647 38 00 72,,
14 66,, Kinky is a celebrity A professional, experienced English-Dutch
hairdresser known throughout the Netherlands. translator. Recommended by expats.
Tabou Haar en Jazz B-3, Oudegracht 211, tel. (+31)
302 30 45 01, While you receive
a haircut you can listen to the newest jazz. This is also one of Space oddity
the best places in the Netherlands for jazz albums.
If you fly KLM frequently and
Language courses have collected plenty of air
miles, you can soon exchan-
James Boswell Instituut E-5, Kriekenpitplein 21/22 ge them for a rather unusual
(Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 53 86 66,
The James Boswell institute is part of Utrecht University and outing. The Netherlands’ lar-
is available for anybody who wants to broaden their skills gest airline will start offering
and knowledge. The institute organises language courses, trips to space in 2014! You’ll
communication workshops and science courses for different also be able to purchase tic-
fields for individuals and groups. kets but at a price of €72,500
Pieter Quint Instituut B-3, Havikstraat 1 (Utrecht- per seat this incredible flight
City), tel. (+31) 302 71 97 39,, might just be out of your pri- Specialises in providing courses such
as Dutch as a second language. ce range. Competitor Virgin thinks that they’ll
be able to offer a similar trip as soon as 2012
with a rented spacecraft called the Lynx. Here
Laundrettes too, the price-buster is clearly cheaper than the
Cyberwash Selfservice wassalon B-3, Amsterdam- Dutch national carrier. A return trip to space with
sestraatweg 237 (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 45 90 Virgin will cost ‘only’ $20,000. From a height of
77,, The cosiest 100km, where space supposedly begins, you’ll
and cheapest launderette in Utrecht. Apart from doing your
laundry, you can also work on your tan and check your email.
be able to photograph all of the cities covered
QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. JW by In Your Pocket in one go, or maybe the hole in
Wasserette Kolman B-3, Oudegracht 177, tel. (+31) the ozone layer.
302 31 82 62, fax (+31) 302 31 82 86. Q J Winter 2010 - 2011

62 Venue index

Hotel, restaurant, café and nightlife index

344 Aan de Gracht 22 Café Het College 38 Ekko 38 Le Clochard 28 Sandton Malie Hotel 21
Aal 28 Caffe'P 34 El Club Brillante 38 Le Conaisseur 29 Selamat Makan 28
Achter het Witte Huis 22 Carla's Smaak 22 Ele 33 Ledig Erf 36 Shabab 43
ACU 37 Carlton President 20 El Mundo 33 Lisboa 27 Soen Lie 26
Algarve 32 Case Di David 30 enSuite 39 Little Siam 33 Springhaver 40
Always Good 22 Central Park 30 Equipe 23 Lokaal 9 29 Stadskasteel Oudaen
Andersom 43 Chambres en Ville 22 Florin 40 Lokaal De Reunie 29 30, 39, 41
Apokalyps - In de Vecht Charlie Chiu's 24 Freak Shop 43 Mammoni Eten & Koken Stairway to Heaven 38
21 Chez Marianne 22 Garden café Botanica 35 34 Stockholm 38
Apollo Hotel Utrecht City Chez Willy 26 Gastenkamer Gaardbrug Manneken Pis 26 Studio Zaagmolen 21
Centre 20 Club Rits 39 23 Maria 40 Sunshine 26
Asia de Cuba 28 Coffee Company 34 Grand Hotel Karel V 20 Mej. Janssen 27 't Grasje 43
Asli 28 Coffeeshop 208 43 Hasekura 31 Mick O'Connells 36 't Singelhuis 23
Aus der Reihe Derrick 37 Cosy Corner 22 Havaa Appartementen 21 Mitland Hotel 20 ‘t Gras van de buren 41
B&B Vechtoever 22 Court Hotel 20 Het Hart 40 Mr. Jacks 31 ‘t Heen en weer 37
Badhu 24 CruiseControl 39 Het Licht 27 Muziekcafé 't Oude Taj Mahal 28
Bagels and Beans 34 Culture Boat 43 Het Zuiden 31 Pothuys 38 Tastoe 37
Barbacoa BBQ & Grill 32 D & D Shortstay 21 Holland Casino Utrecht NH Centre Utrecht Hotel Taverna 28
Bar Walden 26, 40 Dales Gast-en-Verblijf 22 26 21 Theatercafé De
Basiliek 32 De Admiraal 21 Hostel Strowis 23 NH Utrecht De Luxe 21 Bastaard 37
Bastion Hotel 20 De Bakkerswinkel 34 Hotel Badhu 20 Olivier 40 Theehuis Rhijnauwen 32
Bigoli 34 De Burgemeester 34 Hotel De Dom 22 Openbare Bibliotheek 34 Tivoli 38
Bis 28 De Drie Vrienden 29 Hotel Oorsprongpark 21 Opium 24 Toque Toque 26
Black and White 43 De Dromerij 22 Ibis Utrecht 20 Orloff 36 Uitspanning Boslust 37
Bordeaux Rood 43 De Eetkamer 29 IJs en Zopie 28 Ouzeri To Steki 28 Van Haver tot Gracht 23
Brasserie Goeie Louisa Delano 30 Il Mulino 28 Pann 39 Vermeulen 30
26 Delphi's 31 Jasmijn & ik 24 Paradijs 24 Villa Cornelia Bed &
Bresson 26 De Morgenster 36 Javaans Meisje 32 Parkcafe Buiten 29 Breakfast 23
Broers stadscafe- Den Ulch 23 Kafe België 36 Park Plaza Utrecht 20 Vlaamsch Broodhuys 35
restaurant 29, 35 De Oude Muntkelder 32 Kanaalzicht 36 Paviljoen De Colonie 30 West 41
Broodnodig 34 De Pastabar 31 KEEK 34 Polman's Huis 27 Wim's Automatiek 24
Brothers 37 De Poort 40 Kentucky Fried Chicken Popocatepetl 32 Winkel van Sinkel
Buurboot La Luna 21 De Rechtbank 29 26 Pronto Pronto 31 31, 38, 39
Buurthuis Sterrenzicht 36 De Tijd 24 Kitchen Punx Acu 33 Puur Eten & Drinken Yakimono 32
C'est Ca 26 De Veldkeuken 32 Koffiedik 43 30, 35 Zara 23
Café ‘t Heen & Weer 36 De Vingerhoed 40 Kyushu 31 Restaurant Den Draeck ZiZo 35
Cafe Averechts 36 De Vipshop 43 La Perle 23 28 Zocher 30
Cafe Bodytalk 39 De Wietstok 43 La Place 24 Restaurant Elvi 30 Zussen 38
Cafe De Tent 36 De Zaak 40 LE:EN 33 Rosa's Kitchen 30
Café Flitz 38 Eethuis Ekko 33 Le Bibelot 27 Salaam 32

Utrecht In Your Pocket

old city map 63
64 Utrecht City Map
Greater Utrecht area map 65
66 netherlands map

Utrecht In Your Pocket

Old City street register 67

1e Korte Drift B2 Korte Jufferstraat B2 Nieuwekamp B3 Telingstraat B2

Baanstraat C3 Driftbrug B2 Korte Koestraat A2 Nobeldwarsstraat Teugelhof B3
1e Spechtstraat B1 Duifstraat B1 Korte Lauwerstraat B2 Tolsteegbarrisre B4
2e Buurkerksteeg Eikstraat C3 B1 Nobelstraat B2 Trans B3
A3 Eligenhof B4 Korte Minrebroeder- Noorderstraat B1 Tuinstraat B3
2e Korte Eligenstraat B4 straat B2 Oudegracht Aan De Twijnstraat B4
Baanstraat C3 Fockstraat B4 Korte Nieuwstraat Werf A2 Twijnstraat Aan De
Abc Straat B3 Gaardbrug B3 B3 Oudegracht- Werf B4
Abraham Ganzenmarkt B2 Korte Rozendaal B4 Tolsteegzijde B3 Vaaltbrug B1
Bloemaertstraat B1 Geertebolwerk A3 Korte Smeestraat Oudegracht- Vaaltwegbrug B1
Abraham Dolehof B3 Geertekerkhof B4 B3 Weerdzijde A2 Van Humboldtstraat
Abraham Dolesteeg Geertestraat B4 Kromme Oudekamp B3 B1
B3 Godebaldkwartier Nieuwegracht B3 Oudkerkhof B2 Van Leeuwenhoeck-
Achter Clarenburg A2 A3 Kwartelstraat B1 Oudwijkerdwars- straat B1
Achter De Dom B3 Grietbrug B1 Laan Van straat C3 Van Musschen-
Achter Sint Pieter B2 Grietstraat B1 Puntenburg A3 Paardenveld A2 broekstraat B1
Agnietenstraat B4 Groenestraat B4 Lange Pasteurstraat B4 Van ‘s-Gravesande-
Albert Verweystraat Hamburgerbrug B3 Elisabethstraat A2 Pastoor Van straat B1
B4 Hamburgerstraat B3 Lange Jansstraat B2 Nuenenstraat A2 Viebrug* A2
Albrachthof C3 Hamsteeg A2 Lange Jufferstraat Pausdam B3 Vinkenburgstraat A2
Alendorpstraat B3 Hardebollenstraat B2 Pauwhof A2 Vismarkt B2
Ambachtstraat B2 B2 Lange Koestraat A2 Pauwstraat A2 Visschersplein B3
Andreashof B3 Hartsteeg A2 Lange Nieuwstraat Pelmolenplantsoen Visscherssteeg A3
Andreasstraat B4 Haverstraat B3 B4 B4 Voetiusstraat B2
Annastraat B2 Havikbrug B1 Lange Rozendaal B4 Pelmolenweg B4 Vollersbrug B4
Bakkerbrug A2 Havikstraat B1 Lange Smeestraat Pieterskerkhof B2 Voorstraat B2
Bartholomeibrug B4 Hekelsteeg A2 B4 Pieterstraat B2 Vredenburg A2
Begijnehof B1 Hemdsmouwsteeg Lange Viestraat A2 Plompetorengracht Vrouwjuttenhof B4
Begijnekade B1 A2 Lauwersteeg A2 B1 Vrouwjuttenstraat
Bellamystraat B1 Henriëtte Roland Leidseveer A2 Potterstraat A2 B4
Bergstraat A2 Holststraat B4 Lepelenburg C3 Predikherenstraat Wagendwarsstraat
Beukstraat C3 Herenbrug C3 Lichte Gaard B3 A2 C3
Blindesteeg B3 Herenstraat B3 Lijnmarkt B3 Quintijnsbrug B3 Wagenstraat C3
Bloemstraat C3 Hof Van Sint Jan B2 Lindestraat C3 Reguliersteeg B3 Walsteeg A3
Bloesemstraat C3 Hofpoort B3 Lucasbolwerk B2 Ridderhofstad B3 Waterpoort A2
Bolstraat C3 Hooghiemstraplein Maartensbrug B3 Ridderschapstraat Waterstraat A2
Boogstraat B4 B1 Magdalenastraat C3 B1 Wed B3
Boothstraat B2 Hoogt B2 Maliebaanstation C3 Rijnkade A3 Weerdsingel
Boterstraat B3 Hugo De Maliebrug C3 Rondpoort B4 Oostzijde B1
Boven Vredenburg Grootstraat C3 Manenburg B4 Rozenstraat A2 Weesbrug B3
A2 Iepstraat C3 Mariahoek A3 Schalkwijkstraat B3 Westerstraat A3
Brandstraat B3 Jacobijnenstraat A2 Mariaplaats A3 Schoutenstraat B2 Wijde Begijnestraat
Breedstraat B1 Jacobskerksteeg A2 Mariastraat A3 Schroeder Van Der B1
Brigittenstraat B3 Jan Van Der Martinusbrug B4 Kolkstraat B4 Wijde Doelen B4
Brouwerstraat B4 Heijdenstraat B1 Massegast B2 Schutterstraat B4 Wijde Watersteeg B4
Bruntenhof C3 Jansdam B2 Menno Van Servaasbolwerk C3 Willemsplantsoen A3
Bruntensteeg C3 Janskerkhof B2 Coehoornstraat B1 Servetstraat B3 Willemstraat A2
Buurkerkhof B3 Jansveld B2 Minervaplein C3 Simon Stevinstraat Willemsviaduct A3
Catharijnebaan A3 Jeruzalemstraat B3 Mineurslaan A3 B1 Wittevrouwenbrug
Catharijnekade A2 Jodenrijtje A2 Minrebroederstraat Slachtstraat B2 B2
Catharijnesteeg B3 Johan De Wittstraat B2 Smakkelaarsveld A2 Wittevrouwenkade
Choorstraat B2 C3 Molenstraat B1 Smeebrug B3 B1
Clarenburg A2 Johan Van Olden- Moreelsepark A3 Snelliuskade B1 Wittevrouwenstraat
Daalsesingel A2 barneveltlaan C3 Moreelseviaduct A3 Spoorstraat A3 B2
Diaconessenstraat Kalverstraat B2 Moutstraat B4 Springweg B3 Wolvenplein B1
B4 Karmelietenhof B4 Muntstraat B2 Stadhuisbrug B2 Wolvenstraat B1
Dirck Van Keistraat B2 Nathanaëlspoort B3 Stammetsbrug B2 Zacharias
Zuylenstraat A2 Keizerstraat B2 Nauwe Watersteeg Stationsdwars- Jansenstraat B1
Doelenstraat B4 Keukenstraat C3 B4 straat A2 Zadelstraat A3
Domplein B3 Kievitdwarsstraat Neude B2 Stationsplateau A3 Zakkendragershof A2
Domstraat B2 B1 Nicolaasdwars- Stationsplein A3 Zakkendragers-
Donkere Gaard B3 Kievitstraat B1 straat B4 Stationsstraat A2 steeg A2
Donkerstraat A3 Kleine Slachtstraat Nicolaaskerkhof B4 Stationstraverse A3 Zeedijk A1
Dopplerhof B1 B2 Nicolaasstraat B4 Steenweg A2 Zilverberghof B3
Dorstige Harthof B3 Kloksteeg B2 Nieuwe Sterrenbos A3 Zilverbergspoort B3
Dorstige Hartsteeg Koekoekstraat B1 Keizersgracht B1 Sterrenburg B4 Zilverstraat B3
B3 Korte Nieuwegracht B3 Sterrenhof A3 Zonnenburg C3
Drakenburgstraat A2 Elisabethstraat A2 Nieuwegracht Aan Stieltjesstraat B1 Zuilenstraat B3
Drieharingstraat A2 Korte Jansstraat B2 De Werf B3 Strosteeg B3 Zwaansteeg B3 Winter 2010 - 2011