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BASICS OF WEAVING

(With this issue we are starting the publication of the extracts from the book
�Woven Fabric Production - I.� published by the NCUTE, giving the
technical information about weaving, for the benefit of the members.)

1.1 Introduction

The process of producing a fabric by interlacing warp and weft threads is


known as weaving. The machine used for weaving is known as weaving
machine or loom. Weaving is an art that has been practiced for thousands of
years. The earliest application of weaving dates back to the egyptian
civilization. Over the years, both the process as well as the machine have
undergone phenomenal changes. As of today, there is a wide range of looms
being used, right from the simplest handloom to the most sophisticated
loom.

In this rang, the most widely prevelant loom, especially with reference to
India, is the ubiquitous �plain power loom�. In this and in the chapters that
follow, the various mechanisms associated with the plain power loom are
discussed in elaborate detail.

1.2 Basic Mechanisms in a Plain Power Loom

In order to interlace wrap and weft threads to produce a fabric, the


following mechanisms are necessary on any type of loom:

1. Primary mechanisms
2. Secondary mechanisms
3. Auxilliary mechanisms

1.2.1 Primary Mechanisms

These are fundamental or essential mechanisms. Without these


mechanisms, it is practically impossible to produce a fabric. It is for this
reason that these mechanisms are called �primary� mechanisms. The
primary mechanisms are three in number.

a. Shedding mechanism
b. Picking mechanism
c. Beat-up mechanism

a. Shedding mechanism

The shedding mechanism separates the warp threads into two


layers or divisions to form a tunnel known as �shed�

b. Picking mechanism

The picking mechanism passes weft thread from one selvedge of


the fabric to the other through the shed by means of a shuttle, a
projectile, a rapier, a needle, an air-jet or a water-jet. The inserted weft
thread is known as �pick�.

c. Beat-up mechanism

The beat-up mechanism beats or pushes the newly inserted length


of weft thread (pick) into the already woven fabric at a point known as
�fell of the cloth�. These three mechanisms namely shedding,
picking and then beat-up are done in sequence.

1.2.2 Secondary Mechanisms

These mechanisms are next in importance to the primary mechanisms. If


weaving is to be continuous, these mechanisms are essential. So they are
called the �secondary� mechanisms. They are:

a. Take-up motion
b. Let-off motion.

a. Take-up motion

The take-up motion withdraws the cloth from the weaving area at a
constant rate so as to give the required pick-spacing (in picks/inch or
picks/cm) and then winds it on to a cloth roller.

b. Let-off motion.

The let-off motion delivers the warp to the weaving area at the
required rate and at constant tension by unwinding it from the
weaver�s beam. The secondary motions are carried out
simultaneously.

1.2.3 Auxilliary Mechanisms

To get high productivity and good quality of fabric, additional


mechanisms, called auxilliary mechanisms, are added to a plain power loom.
The auxilliary mechanisms are useful but not absolutely essential. This is
why they are called the �auxilliary� mechanisms. These are listed below.

a. Warp protector mechanism


b. Weft stop motion
c. Temples
d. Brake
e. Warp stop motion (Predominantly found in automatic looms)

a. Warp protector mechanism

The warp protector mechanism will stop the loom if the shuttle gets
trapped between the top and bottom layers of the shed. It thus
prevents excessive damage to the warp threads, reed wires and
shuttle.

b. Weft stop motion


The object of the weft stop motion is to stop the loom when a weft
thread breaks or gets exhausted. This motion helps to avoid cracks in a
fabric.

c. Temples

The function of the temples is to grip the cloth and hold it at the
same width as the warp in the reed, before it is taken up.

d. Brake

The brake stops the loom immediately whenever required. The


weaver uses it to stop the loom to repair broken ends and picks.

e. Warp stop motion

The object of the warp stop motion is to stop the loom immediately
when a warp thread breaks during the weaving process.

NEXT

1.3 Passage of Warp and Cloth Through a Plain Power Loom

Figure 1.1 shows the passage of a warp sheet and cloth through a plain
power loom.

A warp sheet A from a weaver�s beam B passes around a back rest C


and is led around lease rods D to heald shafts E & F which are responsible for
separating the warp sheet into two layers to form a shed. The purpose of the
back rest and the lease rods is to separate the warp yarns uniformly and
precisely, and reduce entanglement and tension in the yarns during the
opening of the warp shed.

A - Warp sheet
B - Weaver's beam
C - Back rest
D - Lease rods
E - Heald shaft
F - Heald shaft
G - Reed
H - Cloth
I - Weft yarn
J - Temples
K - Front rest
L - Take-up roller
M - Guide roller
N - Cloth roller

Figure 1.1 Passage of warp and cloth through a plain power loom In the CD-
ROM, watch Animation No. WFP - l 1.1
The warp yarns then pass through a reed G, which holds the yarns at uniform
spacing and is also responsible for beating-up the weft yarn I into the fell of
the cloth. After the weft is beaten up, the warp yarns interchange positions
in the shed and thereby cause interlacing to be achieved. At this point, cloth
is formed and is held firmly by temples J to assist in the formation of a
uniform cloth. The cloth H then passes over a front rest K, around an emery
roller or take-up roller L and a guide roller M and is finally wound on to a
cloth roller N.

1.4. Motion of Heald Shafts, Shuttle and Sley

In a plain power loom the heald shafts, shuttle and sley are operated by
mechanisms that are set in motion by a motor through a crankshaft and a
bottom shaft. The heald shafts move up and down by the shedding
mechanism. The motion is obtained from the bottom shaft or counter shaft
that carries the tappets. So the warp sheet is divided into two layers and it
forms a shed.

The shuttle is pushed into the warp shed by a picker that gets activated
by a picking mechanism. Normally the shuttle is kept in a shuttle box. When
the shuttle is pushed, it reaches the opposite box. The arrival of the shuttle
in the opposite box is confirmed by shuttle checking devices. The picking
mechanism is set in motion by the bottom shaft.

The crankshaft operates the sley through the crank and crank arms. The sley
gets a to and -fro motion. As the sley reciprocates, the reed, which is fixed to
the sley, also gets a to-andfro motion. The reed thus beats up the weft into
the fell of the cloth.

1.5 Warp and Cloth Control

The shuttle is pushed into the warp shed by a picker that gets activated
by a picking After beating up the weft into the fell of the cloth, a take-up
motion draws the cloth forward and winds it on to a cloth roller. At the same
time the warp is delivered from the weaver�s beam by a let-off motion.

These two motions are operated simultaneously and at a constant rate.


i.e. the rate of cloth take-up is so set as to be equal to the rate of warp let-
off. The take-up motion is operated through a sley stud and gear mechanism.
The let-off motion operates by the pulling action of the cloth.

The two temple pieces located at the selvedges of the cloth control width.

1.6 Stop Motions

To ensure good productivity and quality of cloth, the following stop


motions are used: The warp protector mechanism protects the warp from
breakages during shuttle trap and stops the loom immediately.

The weft stop motion stops the loom if a weft thread breaks or the weft
yarn gets exhausted, and thereby prevents the formation of weftway cracks
in the fabric. The brake stops the loom instantaneously at any desired
moment. The warp stop motion stops the loom when a warp thread breaks
during weaving.

1.7 Methods of Driving a Plain Power Loom

Power loom are driven by the following types of drives :

a. Individual drive
b. Group drive

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