flirty paper

PATTERN
by MICHELLE ABEGG

pieced dress Project photo on page 49; instructions

on page 84 of Stitch Winter 2015.

WINTER 2015

Piecing is a fun way to combine a

traditional technique with a classic
fit and flare dress with a circle skirt.
The patchwork for this dress is paper
pieced, and the circle skirt is made
up of four quadrants which are each
made of six pieced strips. The skirt
strips are placed differently in each
quadrant to create a graduated
pieced effect.

PHOTO BY DONALD SCOTT

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PAGE 1 OF 54
 RIGHT FRONT RIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
cut 2 XXxx

XL

L
pattern

M
XS
WINTER2015
WINTER 2015 S
M

S
L

XS
XL

GETTING STARTED BASIC TECHNIQUES AND TERMS

YOU’LL NEED TO KNOW FOR THE PATTERN YOU HAVE
XL

DOWNLOADED.
L

ASSEMBLING FULL-SIZE PATTERN PRINTOUT PATTERN SYMBOLS + MARKINGS

XL
1 |
S

L
When prepar-
cut on fold

M
ing to print the PDF, BUTTON + BUTTONHOLE
XS

S
make sure that you are PLACEMENT MARKS Solid lines indicate

XS
printing it at 100% and buttonholes. A large open circle is the
that there is no scaling. button symbol and shows placement.
Check the settings for
page scaling (should be TEST SQUARE XS
S CUTTING LINES Multisize
“None”) and check the
2" 2" [5 5 CM] M patterns have different cutting
preview to make sure L
XL cut on fold lines for each size.
that you will be printing
at full size. Make sure
that the box labeled PLACE ON FOLD BRACKET This is a
“Auto-Rotate and grainline marking with arrows pointing
XS Center” is unchecked to the edge of the pattern. Place on the
S
M (instructions apply specifically to Adobe Reader; if using ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS
fold of the fabric so that SKIRT
your finished
L RIGHT FRONT
XL another PDF reader, check for similar settings). piece will be twice the size of the pattern
|
2 To ensure that the pattern has printed at the correct scale, piece,cut 2 XXxx
without adding a seam.

XL
check the size of the TEST SQUARE. The Test Square

L
should be 2" × 2" (5 × 5 cm). GRAINLINE The double-ended arrow

M
|
3 To begin assembling the pattern, cut off or fold the dotted should be parallel to the lengthwise
margin around each page.
grain or fold unless specifically marked
|
4 The pages are numbered in rows, so the first row of pages as crosswise. Bias grainlines will be
ASYMMETRICAL
is numbered 1a, 1b, 1c, etc. Line up FOLDS
the rows andSKIRT
match the
XL

diagonal.
dotted lines together so they overlap.
RIGHT FRONT Tape the pages together.
L

Use the illustrated guide to match each piece. Once the pattern
is complete, find your size, cut 2 XXxx XS
NOTCHES Notches are triangle-shaped
S

pin the pattern to the fabric, and fol- S

M
XS

low the coordinating line to cut out or trace the pattern. L

symbols used for accurately matching
XL
seams. Pieces to be joined will have cor-
LAYOUT, MARKING + CUTTING GUIDELINES responding notches.
1 |
Find the lines that correspond to your size and trace cut on fold
the pattern pieces, either on tissue paper or directly onto DARTS Dashed lines and dots mark
the fabric, using tracing paper and a tracing wheel.
darts. The dashed lines show where the
|
2 If you are cutting pattern pieces on the fold or cutting stitching will be, and the dot shows the
cut two
on of the same pattern piece, fold the fabric in half,
fold XL
position of the dart point (signaling the
selvedge to selvedge, with right sides together. Note that this

L
point, at the end of the dart, where your

M
S

technique is not appropriate for some fabrics so check the

stitching should end).

S
XS

project instructions if you are unsure.

|
3 Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric as close together PATTERN DOTS Filled circles indicate
as possible. Double-check that all pattern pieces to be
that a mark needs to be made (often on
cut “on the fold” are placed on the fold.
the right side of the fabric) for placement
|
4 Make sure all pattern pieces are placed on the fabric of elements such as a pocket or a dart
with the grainline running parallel to the lengthwise grain unless
point. Mark by punching through the pat-
a crosswise or bias grainline is present.
tern paper only, then mark on the fabric
cut on fold
|
5 Copy all pattern markings onto the wrong side of the fabric
through the hole.
unless otherwise noted.
|
6 Read through all cutting instructions listed in the project
SLASH MARKS A dashed line (some-
instructions for directions on how many pattern pieces to
cut out of your fabric and interfacing. times appearing with pattern dots)
indicates an area to be slashed. Further
|
7 Use weights to hold the pattern pieces down and use
instructions for making the slash will be
pins to secure the corners as needed.
included in the pattern instructions.
|
8 Cut the pieces slowly and carefully.

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PAGE 2 OF 54
 WINTER 2015 cutting layout
09-13-15
45" 45"
lining lining Pieced Dress
45” Lining
XS, S M-XL
Selvedge
SELVEDGE Selvedge
SELVEDGE
All sizes 5/8 yd.
Flirty Paper Pieced Dress Flirty Paper Pieced Dress
LEFT SIDE
RIGHT FRONT BODICE (A) 45" lining RIGHT SIDE BACK BODICE (H)
45" lining
BACK BODICE (G)
XS-S ⅝ yd M-XL 1 yd
RIGHT SIDE FRONT BODICE (E)

RIGHT SIDE LEFT FRONT

FRONT BODICE (E) BODICE (B)

LEFT SIDE FRONT BODICE (F)

LEFT SIDE
LEFT FRONT BODICE (B) FRONT BODICE (F)
RIGHT FRONT
BODICE (A)

RIGHT SIDE BACK BODICE (G) RIGHT BACK

BODICE (C)

RIGHT BACK BODICE (C)

LEFT BACK
BODICE (D)

LEFT BACK BODICE (D)

SELVEDGE
Selvedge
LEFT SIDE BACK BODICE (H)

Selvedge
SELVEDGE

60"
lining
All Sizes
Flirty Paper Pieced Dress
60" lining
BODICE (A)
RIGHT FRONT
BODICE (B)
LEFT FRONT

SELVEDGE
FRONT BODICE (E)
RIGHT SIDE
SELVEDGE
BACK BODICE (H)
LEFT SIDE

BODICE (D)
LEFT BACK

BODICE (C)
RIGHT BACK

All Sizes ⅝ yds

Selvedge
FRONT BODICE (F)
LEFT SIDE
Selvedge

BACK BODICE (G)

RIGHT SIDE

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PAGE 3 OF 54
 09-13-15

Pieced Dress
60” Fusible

WINTER 2015 cutting layout All sizes 3 3/4 yds.

60"
fusible
All Sizes
Selvedge
SELVEDGE Flirty Paper Pieced Dress
60" fusible

All Sizes 3¾ yds

09-13-15

Pieced Dress

SELVEDGE
Selvedge Pieced panel / Skirt layout

Flirty Paper Pieced Dress

All sizes

A B C D E F

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PAGE 4 OF 54
 Flirty Paper Pieced
WINTER 2015
dress
Flirty Paper Pieced Dress Flirty Paper Pieced Dress
Bodice Skirt
1a 1b 1c
2a

1a
XS
S
M
FLIRTY PAPER PIECED DRESS L
XL

cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up

cut 1 main, fabric right side up
RIGHT BACK SIDE BODICE (G)
PIECED DRESS
FLIRTY PAPER

FLIRTY PAPER PIECED DRESS

XS,S,M,L,XL

XL

XS
M
S
L
2a 2b 2c 2d
2b

1b

FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
LEFT FRONT BODICE (B)
cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
XS,S,M,L,XL

FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
LEFT BACK BODICE (D)
cut 1 main, fabric right side up
3a 3b 3c 3d 3e
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
XS,S,M,L,XL
2c

1c

els
an
IR ce L
SK pie ,L,X
(I) d p

m M
fro S,S,
S
ES R

X
T
DR PE

t4
D A

cu
CE Y P
PIE IRT
FL

4a 4b 4c 4d 4e 4f
2d

1d

FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
RIGHT BACK BODICE (C)
cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up C5
XS,S,M,L,XL
E4 F4
D4

A4
B4
5a 5b 5c 5d 5e 5f

C4

E3

D3 F3
2e

1e

A3
C3
B3
FLIRTY PAPER
FLIRTY PAPER PIECED DRESS FLIRTY PAPER
FLIRTY PAPER PANEL A
PIECED DRESS FLIRTY PAPER PIECED DRESS
PIECED DRESS Creat four panel from fabric squares
PANEL C
PANEL D PANEL F XS,S,M,L,XL PIECED DRESS
Creat four panel from fabric squares
Creat four panel from fabric squares PANEL B
XS,S,M,L,XL Creat four panel from fabric squares E2 XS,S,M,L,XL
XS,S,M,L,XL
XS,S,M,L,XL Creat four panel from fabric squares
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
XS,S,M,L,XL
cut 1 main, fabric right side up
RIGHT FRONT SIDE BODICE (E)

6a 6b 6c 6d 6e 6f
PIECED DRESS FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
FLIRTY PAPER PANEL E
Creat four panel from fabric squares
XS,S,M,L,XL
F2

D2

C2
2f

1f

A2
B2
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
cut 1 main, fabric right side up
LEFT BACK SIDE BODICE (H)
PIECED DRESS
FLIRTY PAPER

D1
7a 7b 7c 7d 7e 7f
XS,S,M,L,XL

E1 F1

C1
A1
B1
2g

1g
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
cut 1 main, fabric right side up
RIGHT FRONT BODICE (A)
PIECED DRESS
FLIRTY PAPER

XS,S,M,L,XL

FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
LEFT FRONT SIDE BODICE (F)
cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
XS,S,M,L,XL
2h

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All rights reserved. this issue to be copied for personal use. sewdaily.com
PAGE 5 OF 54
1a
FLIRTY PAPER PIECED DRESS

XS
S
M
L
XL

FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
RIGHT BACK SIDE BODICE (G)
cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
XS,S,M,L,XL
 1b

FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
LEFT FRONT BODICE (B)
cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
XS,S,M,L,XL
1c
 1d

FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
RIGHT BACK BODICE (C)
cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
XS,S,M,L,XL
1e
1f

FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
LEFT BACK SIDE BODICE (H)
cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
XS,S,M,L,XL
 FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
RIGHT FRONT BODICE (A)
cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
XS,S,M,L,XL
1g
2a
 2b

FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
LEFT BACK BODICE (D)
cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
XS,S,M,L,XL
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
XS,S,M,L,XL

2c
2d
 FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
RIGHT FRONT SIDE BODICE (E)
cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
XS,S,M,L,XL
2e
2f
 2g

FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
LEFT FRONT SIDE BODICE (F)
cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
XS,S,M,L,XL
2h
1a XS
S
M
FLIRTY PAPER PIECED DRESS L
XL
1b
1c
2a
2b
2c
2d
3a
 3b

R
S

A
S

P
E
DR PE l s
E D ne
a
( I) d p

FL
I EC TY I RT ce L
P IR SK pie ,L,X
m ,M
fro S,S
t4 X
cu
3c
3d
3e
4a

D4
4b

E4
4c

F4
4d

A4
4e
4f

C5
5a

D3

FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
PANEL D
Creat four panel from fabric squares
XS,S,M,L,XL
5b

E3

E2
5c

F3

FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
PANEL F
Creat four panel from fabric squares
XS,S,M,L,XL
 A4

5d

A3

FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
PANEL A
Creat four panel from fabric squares
XS,S,M,L,XL
 B4
5e

B3

FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
PANEL B
Creat four panel from fabric squares
XS,S,M,L,XL
5f

C4

C3

FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
PANEL C
Creat four panel from fabric squares
XS,S,M,L,XL
6a

D2
6b
FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
PANEL E
Creat four panel from fabric squares
XS,S,M,L,XL
6c
F2
6d

A2
6e

B2
6f

C2
 D1
7a
7b E1
7c F1
7d

A1
7e

B1
7f

C1