Dot pebbles #freebee pattern page 1

FINISHED SIZE 33cm/ 13in long from heel to neck x 30cm/ 113⁄4in
wide, arms outstretched
YARN 1⁄2 50gm ball DK (light-worsted) weight
Shown in MC - Rowan Pure Wool DK shade 13 Enamel (MC)
NEEDLES set size 3mm (US size 3) double pointed needles
TENSION 24 stitches and 35 rows counted over a 10cm/ 4in square
working stocking stitch in main colour and using size 3mm (US size 3)
double pointed needles
NOTIONS small circles felt in eye colour and tiny seed beads for the
eyes, black sewing thread and needle, 5 small safety pins for holding
stitches, tape measure, toy filling

Special instructions and abbreviations can be found at the end of the patterns

Greyhound
The Princess Snowdrop
Muzzle, head, body & legs make as one piece
Beg with the tip of the nose leave a long tail end and cast on 4 sts, using
size 3mm (US size 3) needles.
1st row (WS) P.
Row 2 (inc) Kfb, k2, kfb. 6sts
Row 3 Purl into front then knit into back of st to increase one stitch,
(pfkb), p to last st, pfkb. 8sts
Rep last 2 rows once more. 12sts
Work 6 rows st st, ending with a WS row.
Shape front of head
Row 12 (inc) K4, [kfb] four times, k4. 16sts
Row 13 P.
Shape jaw
Row 14 (inc) Kfb, k to last st kfb. 18sts
Row 15 (WS) P.
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Knit and divide all 18 sts over 3 dpns as follows: N1 - k6, n2 - k6, n3 - n6. Front legs
RS of knitting facing join for working in the round. Row 42 WS facing, cast on 22 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 53sts
Keep tension fairly tight in first rnd. *Shape feet
Rnd 16 (inc) K9, m1, k9. 19sts Row 43 (WS) P5, turn.
Shape back of head Row 44 Sl1, k3, turn.
Rnd 17 (dec) K16, skpo. Turn and work on sts for Head Back as follows: Row 45 Sl1, p2, turn.
Row 18 (dec) Sl1, p13, p2tog, turn. 17sts Row 46 Sl1, k1, turn.
Row 19 (dec) Sl1, k11, skpo, turn. 16sts Row 47 Sl1, p to end.
Row 20 (dec) Sl1, p8, p2tog, turn. 15sts Row 43 K5, turn.
Row 21 (dec) Sl1, k4, skpo, turn. 14sts Row 44 Sl1, p3, turn.
Row 22 (dec) Sl1, p2, p2tog, turn. 13sts Row 45 Sl1, k2, turn.
Row 23 Sl1, then k8 sts to beg the rnd. Place marker. Join for working in Row 46 Sl1, p1, turn.
the rnd. Row 47 Sl1, k to end.
Rnd 24 K13. Work 3 rows st st.
Rep last row once more. Inside front left leg
Shape neck Row 51 K22, turn.
Rnd 26 Kfb, k4, k3tog, k4, kfb. Working on these last 22 sts for inside left leg, cont in st st for 3 rows.
Rnd 27 K13. Shape inside left foot
Rep last 2 rows twice more, re-arranging the sts: N1 - 3sts, n2 - 7sts, n3 - Row 55 (RS) K5, turn.
3sts. Row 56 Sl1, p3, turn.
Rnd 32 (inc) [Kfb] twice, k3, k3tog, k3, [kfb] twice. 15sts Row 57 Sl1, k2, turn.
Rnd 33 K15. Row 58 Sl1, p1, turn.
Rnd 34 (inc) [Kfb] twice, k4, k3tog, k4, [kfb] twice. 17sts Row 59 Sl1, k19 to end of Inside Leg. Turn.
Rnd 35 K17. Bind off 22 sts.
Place marker, work 5 rnds st st (every rnd k). Remove marker. Row 51 WS facing, rejoin yarn to foot end of Right Leg. P22. Turn
Divide for front Inside front right leg
Rnd 41 into rnd 42 K4, slip last 8 sts off needles onto a safety pin, k9. Work 3 rows st st, so ending with a RS row.
Turn. Shape inside right foot
WS facing work back and forth as follows: Row 55 P5, turn. .
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Row 56 Sl1, k3, turn

Row 55 P5, turn.
Row 56 Sl1, k3, turn.
Row 57 Sl1, p2, turn.
Row 58 Sl1, k1, turn.
Row 59 Sl1, p19 to end of Inside Leg, turn.
Bind off 22 sts.
Leave 9sts from Back onto the needle as you return to Front as follows:
Front
Slip 8 sts at neck off safety pin onto 3mm (US size 3) dpns.
Row 42 RS facing rejoin yarn. K across.
Work 7 rows st st.
Join Front to Back
Row 50 (RS) Divide as follows: N1 - K8sts, n2 - k4sts,, n3 - K5sts.
RS of knitting facing, join for working in the rnd Pull tension tight as you k
across junctions.
Shape tummy
Rnd 51 (inc) K8, [k2, m1] twice, k1, [m1, k2] twice. 21sts
Rnd 52 K21.
Rnd 53 (inc) [K2, m1] six times, k2, kfb, k2, (m1, k2) twice, m1. 31sts
Rnd 54 K31.
Rep last rnd six times more.
Rnd 61 (dec) K2tog, k7, k2tog, k20. 29sts
Rnd 62 (dec) K2tog, K5, k2tog, k20. 27sts
Rnd 63 (dec) K2, k3tog, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k2, k2tog. 21sts
Rnd 64 K21.
Rnd 65 (dec) K1, k3 tog, k17. 19sts
Rnd 66 K19.
Rnd 67 (dec) K3tog, k16. 17sts
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Rnd 68 K17. Next row K5, turn.

Rep last rnd eight times more. Next row Sl1, p3, turn.
Divide for back legs and tail Next row Sl1, k2, turn.
Rnd 77 and into rnd 78 K19, slip last 4 sts onto a small safety pin. Cast Next row Sl1, p1, turn.
on 25 sts, k to end. Cont to work in st st, back and forth as follows: Next row Sl1, k22 to end of inside leg. Turn.
Row 78 (inc) Cast on 25 sts, p to end. 65sts Bind off 25 sts.
*Shape feet WS facing, rejoin yarn to foot end of Right Leg.
Row79 K5, turn. Inside back right leg
Row 80 Sl1, p3, turn. Next row P25. Turn, working on these last 25 sts for Inside Right Leg,
Row 81 Sl1, k2, turn. cont in st st for 3 rows.
Row 82 Sl1, p1, turn. Shape inside right foot
Row 83 Sl1, k to end. Next row P5, turn.
Row 79 P5, turn. Next row Sl1, k3, turn.
Row 80 Sl1, k3, turn. Next row Sl1, p2, turn.
Row 81 Sl1, p2, turn. Next row Sl1, k1, turn.
Row 82 Sl1, k1, turn. Next row Sl1, p22 to end of inside leg. Turn.
Row 83 Sl1, p to end Bind off 25 sts.
Back shaping RS facing, rejoin yarn to 6 sts at tail end, k2tog, k2, k2tog. 4sts
Next row K31, k3tog, k to end. 63sts Work stocking st for 5 rows, so ending with a WS row.
Next row P. Cut yarn, leave sts on needle.
Next row (dec) K30, k3tog, k to end. 61sts Join seam beneath back legs
Divide for tail Slip 4 sts held on safety pin at Under Body onto 3mm (US size 3) dpn.
Next row P28, slip next 5 sts of needle onto a safety pin, cont to purl Cut working yarn leaving about 60cm (1ft) tail. Hold needles parallel in left
28sts beneath the tail to end of row. Keep tension tight to avoid large gaps hand as if ready to knit across the row. Work Kitchener Stitch to close seam.
as you purl above the sts held on the pin. 56sts
Inside back left leg Tail
Next row K25. Turn, working on these last 25 sts for Inside Left Leg, cont Slip 5 sts off safety pin at Tail onto a 3mm (US size 3) dpn.
in st st for 3 rows. K5 work as i cord - sts to other end of dpn without turning, for 7 rnds.
Shape inside left foot Next rnd (dec) K2tog, k1, k2tog. 3sts
.
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Next rnd (dec) K2tog, k1, k2tog. 3sts Using tweezers, stuff leg at ‘knee’ and ‘thigh’ to create the desired leg shape
Cont to work as i cord until entire tail measures approx. 10cm/ 4in. shaping foot as you do so.
Cut yarn, thread end through last 3 sts. Fasten off, weave in ends. Join seam around Front Leg, stuff body quite firmly.
WS facing, fold Back Leg in half joining row ends, matching foot shaping.
Ears make 2 alike Leaving tops (cast off edges) of legs un-sewn, mattress seam rows ends to join
Using 3mm (US size 3) needles and yarn MC (main colour), cast on 3 sts, inside leg to outer leg, work a running stitch, in and out, around CO at foot,
leaving a long tail end for sewing Ear to Head. stuff foot quite firmly, pull up tight to gather and secure. Weave tail end
1st row (WS) P. through stuffing back inside foot. Using tweezers, stuff leg at ‘knee’ and ‘thigh’
Row 2 Kfb, k to last st, kfb. 5sts to create the desired leg shape shaping foot as you do so.
Rep last 2 rows once more. 7sts This next bit is a little tricky, try gently pressing the pieces first to stop them
Row 5 P. from curling: join seam around Back Leg, stuffing back of body, quite firmly, as
Row 6 K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. 5sts you do so. If necessary backstitch any gap from under Tail. Take time to really
Rep last 2 rows once more. 3sts ‘sculpt’ your dog to give him a greyhound body shape.
Row 9 P3tog. 1st
Fasten off. Weave in end.

To make up
Carefully turn out to WS. Backstitch row ends at side of head and along
nose. Carefully turn out to RS. Use your finger to push out the shaping at
Nose.
Sew on the eyes - the beads onto the felt onto the head.
Stuff head and neck fairly firmly.
Embroider a black nose, using black thread, at the top of ‘nose’ shaping.
With CO end at ear join to each side of Head at head shaping decreases.
WS of Front Leg fold leg in half joining row ends and matching foot
shaping. Leave tops (cast off edges) of legs un-sewn,
mattress seam rows ends to join inside leg to outer leg, work a running
stitch, in and out, around CO at foot, stuff foot quite firmly, pull up tight
to gather and secure.
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FINISHED SIZE 61⁄2cm/ 21⁄2in long x 14cm/ 51⁄2in waist Armholes

YARN small amount DK (light-worsted) weight (MC) and heart (H) Rnd 14 (dec) K3, bind off next 6 sts, k10, bind off next 6 sts, k2. 17sts
Shown in MC - Jamieson’s DK shade 375 Flax (MC), Rowan Soft Baby
Rnd 14 K next 3 sts so that 6 sts are on one needle, turn and work back
shade 033 Sea Pink (H)
NEEDLES set size 3mm (US size 3) double pointed needles and forth on these 6 sts for underside of jacket.
TENSION 24 stitches and 35 rows counted over a 10cm/ 4in square Rnd 14 P.
working stocking stitch in main colour and using size 3mm (US size 3)
Work 2 rows st st.
double pointed needles
Cut yarn, leave sts on needle.
Special instructions and abbreviations can be found at the end of the patterns Rnd 14 RS facing, rejoin yarn to 13sts from top of jacket. Skpo, k9, k2tog.
11sts
Work 3 rows st st.
Sweet heart jacket Join top to bottom
Jacket Rnd 14 K11 from Top, from 6 sts at Bottom k2tog, k2, k2tog. 15sts.
Using 3mm (US size 3) dpns cast on 25 sts in yarn MC – main colour. Join in rnd.
1st row (inc) Kfb, k to last st, kfb. 27sts Keep tension tight as you knit across the tops of the sleeves.
Row 2 (inc) Purl into front, knit into back of st (pfkb) p to last st, pfkb. 29sts Rnd 14 K15.
Work 2 rows st st. Rep last rnd three times more.
Knit to divide all 29 sts over 3 dpns as follows: N1 - K10, n2 – k9, n3 – Bind off.
k10. RS of knitting facing join for working in the rnd. Weave in all ends, neatening around the armholes.
Rnd 6 K29.
Add heart motif
Join in heart colour (H) and strand across the back of the jacket until
needed as follows:
Rnd 7 (MC) K14, (H) k1, (MC) k14.
Rnd 8 (MC) K13, (H) k3, (MC) k13.
Rnd 9 (MC) K12, (H) k5, (MC) k12.
Rep last rnd twice more.
Rnd 10 (MC) K12, (H) k2, (MC) k1, (H) k2, (MC) k12.
Rnd 11 (MC) K13, (H) k1, (MC), k1, (H) k1, (MC), k13.
Cut yarn H.
Knitting etc. Cast on placing stitches on the needle to begin knitting. There are many ways to cast on although (unless stated otherwise

within the pattern) the Knitting-on method is the type I have adopted throughout all of my patterns.

Leaving about a 20cm/ 8in tail end, make a slip knot. Place the slip knot onto the tip of one of the needles, Fig 1 - the yarn

knowledge from the ball (the working yarn) should be ready to work on the right of the knot.

Begin adding stitches to the needle by taking the needle with the slip knot in your left hand. With the other needle in your

right hand, *push the tip of the right-hand needle into the slip knot loop (1st stitch) from the front to the back of the loop

and under the left-hand needle. Now wrap the working yarn around the tip of the right-hand needle, over from front to

abbreviations back. Fig 2. Slide the tip of the right-hand needle down to catch this new loop of yarn. Fig 3. Lift the loop up and place it

onto the left-hand needle. Fig 4. Repeat from * to ** until you have cast on the number of stitches needed.
cm centimetre/ s lh left hand rem remaining

co cast on m1 make a stitch (see definitions) rh right hand

cont continue mc main colour rs right side Fig 4

Fig 2
dec decrease mm millimetre skpo or psso slip, knit pass over
Fig 3
DK double knit p purl (see definitions) Fig 1
ft foot/ feet as in measurements patt pattern sl slip

gm gram/ mes pfkb purl into front, knit into back st/sts stitch/es

in inch/es pup&k pick up and knit tbl through back loop

inc increase (see definitions) ws wrong side

k knit/ knitting re regarding yf Bring yarn to front of work

kfb knit into front, then back rep repeat yo yarn over (see definitions)

definitions
The following definitions are brief explanations of the special techniques and some of the basic techniques that may have been

used within these patterns. Some definitions are explained within the patterns themselves, especially if they occur regularly and

are uncommon, some are illustrated where it is easier to show a

diagram than it is to put into words. Plus for extra tuition,

sometimes with step-by-step video footage, the Internet provides

wonderful tutorials on all these and other special or basic Backward loop cast on (bl) the only other alternative cast on method that is mentioned in any of my patterns and it is

techniques because it is the best cast-on method when adding stitches in the middle of a row, even though to work the next row over

the new stitches can need a little patience! Basically you twist a loop of yarn around your forefinger then slip this new loop

Slip knot this is generally how to begin knitting or crochet and onto the right-hand needle to increase a stitch.

usually becomes the first stitch; it is the beginning of the cast on Hold the working yarn in your left hand with the needle in your right. Extend your left forefinger parallel to the yarn, dip

method adopted for these patterns and it is also how to begin a your finger under the yarn and towards you, you should have a single loop of yarn around your finger. Move the tip of the

crochet chain. right-hand needle from the base of your finger so that the needle is through the loop on your finger. Remove your finger,

To make a slip knot work the yarn, with your fingers, into a half tighten the loop on the needle.

knot but don’t pull the knot closed - this will leave you with a

loop. Slip the point of the knitting needle, or crochet hook for Brackets when you come across these brackets [ ] in a pattern enclosing an instruction/ number and followed by a number,

crochet projects, under the loop then pull the working yarn, this is work the instruction within the bracket the number of times stated. For example:

attached to the yarn ball, gently until the knot lies, not too tightly, [K5, k2 tog] 5 times means knit 5 sts then knit 2 stitches together - do these two instructions five times

onto the needle or hook. When you come across this bracket ( ) in a pattern enclosing an instruction/ number it is there for your information only:

(25 sts) means there are 25 stitches on the needle and usually appears at the end of a row when there has been

an increase or decrease. Or (right arm) tells you where about you are within the pattern.
Knit one of the two most basic stitches in knitting. There are other methods - this is the one I adopt: Knitting in the round (rnd) is a process of working seamless knitting, that is not having to sew a seam to join front to

Hold the full needle (the needle with all the stitches on) in your left hand and the empty needle in you right. back for example. It is working knitting around and around without having a beginning or an end - the start of the piece is

Insert the tip of the needle in your right hand into the first stitch from left to right, front to back. Wrap the working yarn however marked by a stitch marker of knotted loop of spare yarn. And it is worked, in the case of these patterns, with four

around the back needle (right-hand needle) counter clockwise. Draw the loop through the stitch at the front of the work - double pointed needles (dpns).

this is the new stitch. Now slide the old stitch from the left needle. To ‘join for working in the round’ begin with two of the double pointed needles and cast on stitches in the normal way,

then spread the stitches as evenly as numbers will allow dividing them over three of the needles. Fig 1

Purl the second of the two basic stitches. This is the reverse of a ‘knitted’ stitch and loops like a horizontal bar. Arrange the stitches so that the loops are lined up on the top of each dpn, the working section/ cast on edge of the knitting

To work a purl stitch, insert the needle from right to left in front of the work with the yarn at the front. Wrap the yarn lying beneath the needles and the working yarn to your right, ready to begin to knit - the three rows of cast on stitches are

around the right-hand needle in front of the work counter clockwise as you did for ‘knit’. not to be twisted in a spiral around the needles as you link the last cast on stitch with the first cast on stitch by, using your

Draw the loop through the stitch, slide the old stitch off the needle. forth needle, knitting into it. Fig 2 then Fig 3

Placing a marker before you knit the first stitch to link/ join the ‘round’ determines the beginning of the round. Subsequent

French knot working this embroidery stitch embellishes the knitting with texture and fine detail, a French knot is also useful rounds are worked from the first stitch after the marker up to the last stitch before the marker. This marker you slip onto the

useful for creating the pupil and highlight for the doll’s eye. right-hand needle before beginning another round. At the end of each rnd you should have the same number of stitches on

Thread up a sewing needle with cotton thread or light-weight yarn. With the thread secured at the back of the work, bring each needle that you started with.

the threaded needle through from the back of the work to the front where you want the knot to be. Wrap the yarn around With the first couple of rounds check to see that the stitches are not twisting/ spiralling around the needles, after that you

the needle clockwise, three times. Holding the loops in a tight bundle with your thumb and forefinger, pull the needle can be reassured that this will not happen.

through the coils by inserting the needle back into the fabric near the base of the knot, not in the same place. Note: when you are working in the round you never see the wrong side of the fabric so to make stocking stitch, all rounds

Secure the thread at the back of the work. are worked all knit (no purling), garter stitch is one round knit, next round purl.

i cord – an i cord, as the name suggests, is a cord or tube like a thick knitted string. Using 2 double pointed needles (dpns)
Fig 1
cast on the number of stitches as directed within the pattern and knit across them. Then, instead of turning your knitting as

you normally would, slide the stitches to the opposite end of the needle with the same side of the work still facing you. The

working yarn will be at the wrong side of the work. Keeping the working yarn at the back, knit across the stitches. Slide the

stitches to the opposite end of the needle again, with the working yarn at the back, knit across the stitches, drawing the

knitting into a tube made of garter stitches. Pull the yarn quite tightly when knitting the first stitch. To reiterate – the working

yarn is always on the wrong side of the cord, the right side of the wrong is always facing you.

Kitchener stitch or grafting: to ‘graft’ or sew together ‘live’ stitches held on double pointed needles (dpns) that are held Fig 2
parallel in your left hand.

Thread up a yarn needle with the tail end, insert the threaded needle purl-wise into the first stitch on the double pointed

needle (dpn) closest to you, pull the yarn through, leave the stitch on the needle.

Insert the threaded needle into the first stitch on the back dpn, as if to knit, pull yarn through, leave that stitch on the dpn.

*Insert the threaded needle into the same front stitch, this time knit-wise, then slip that stitch off the dpn then bring threaded

needle through the next front stitch as if to purl it – leave this stitch on the dpn.

Pass the threaded needle through the same stitch on back dpn – this time purl-wise, slip that stitch off the dpn, then bring

threaded needle through the next back stitch as if to knit it – leave this stitch on the needle.**

Repeat from * to ** until there is one stitch remaining. Fasten off the last remaining stitch. Fig 3

K2 tog knit 2 sts together. As knitting - insert the tip of the needle in your right hand, this time into the next two stitches on

the left needle from left to right, front to back. Wrap the working yarn around the back needle (right-hand needle) counter

clockwise. Draw the loop through both stitches at the front of the work - leaving one stitch remaining. Now slide this stitch

from the left needle. One stitch decreased.

M1 an increase stitch, used primarily a within a row. Knit to where the increase is to occur, in a pattern this will read as

k5, m1 - for example, so knit 5 sts, slip the right-hand needle front to back, under the horizontal bar that lies before the next

stitch, slip left-hand needle through, from front to back, the picked up bar and allow the stitch to remain on the left-hand needle

then, with the right-hand needle, knit into the back of the newly made loop to complete the new stitch. carry on knitting along

the row or round unless otherwise stated. Printer friendly versions,

Mattress seam is the seam that gives you a non bulky join - perfect for small items like dolls’ clothes. Always use a blunt ended, pages 19 - 28, follow:
large eyed, yarn needle (so not to split the stitches) and matching yarn when sewing up your work.

Lay the pieces to be sewn up side by side, matching row end stitches or cast on/ cast off stitches.

...When joining a vertical/ side seam - insert the threaded up yarn needle in between the first and second stitches on the lower

edge of one of the pieces to be joined. With your needle, pick up the first horizontal bar, that look like a ladder rung, and pull

the yarn through. Go to the other piece and pick up the adjacent ‘ladder rung’/ horizontal bar. Continue picking up the horizontal

bars along the edges of the two sides going back and forth from piece to piece, as the sides are joined.

...When sewing up horizontal/ cast on and or cast off edges - insert the threaded up yarn needle just inside the cast on or cast off

edge of one of the pieces to be joined. With your needle, pick up the two strands that make the V shape of a knitted stitch - at

the bottom of the V not the top, pull the yarn through. Go to the other piece and pick up the corresponding V stitch. Continue

picking up the V shaped stitches along the edges of the two sides going back and forth from piece to piece.

Pick up and knit (pup&k) When the need arises to join a finished row or cast on or cast off edges with new stitches, for

example to create the gusset of a sock or edge of a shoe or neckline/ collar to an item of clothing, you work ‘pick up and knit’.

With the right side of the work facing and one needle in the right hand, *insert the needle tip through the knitted fabric to the

back, at least two strands from the edge. Wrap counter clockwise, as if to knit, the working yarn around the needle and draw this

loop through the fabric to the right side/ front of the work, leave this loop/ new stitch on the needle** - one stitch picked up.

Continue from * to ** working along the finished edge picking up more stitches. The pattern will direct you how many stitches

are to be ‘picked up’.

P2 tog purl 2 sts together. As purling - insert the needle from right to left in front of the work this time into the next two stitches

with the yarn at the front. Wrap the yarn around the right-hand needle in front of the work counter clockwise as you did for

‘purl’ Draw the loop through the two stitches, then slide the remaining stitch off the needle. One stitch decreased.

Skpo slip stitch, knit a stitch then pass the slipped stitch over - a simple decrease sometimes used with K2 tog to give an even

and balanced decrease at the ends or within a row. Simply work up to where the decrease is to be, for example: K5, skpo, k3 -
knit 5 sts, slip the next stitch by inserting the right needle into the stitch as if to knit and moving it over to the right needle

without winding the working yarn around it, knit the next stitch (a), then with the left needle, pick up the slipped stitch from the

right needle and pass it over the knitted stitch (a) and off the needle to ‘lose’ a stitch. One stitch decreased.

Straight stitches are worked with a sewing or yarn needle. Simply take the threaded needle, secured on the wrong side, from

the back to the front of the fabric, work even or random small or medium straight line stitches in the direction shown either from

a template or referring to photographs.

Yo yarn over - to work this simple increase - usually within a lace pattern - wind the yarn once over the needle from the back

then over, from right to left, the right-hand needle, knit the next stitch. Remember, when working the next row or round to work

this new ‘yarn over stitch’ too.

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FINISHED SIZE 33cm/ 13in long from heel to neck x 30cm/ 113⁄4in wide, Knit and divide all 18 sts over 3 dpns as follows: N1 - k6, n2 - k6, n3 - n6.
arms outstretched RS of knitting facing join for working in the round.
1
YARN ⁄2 50gm ball DK (light-worsted) weight
Keep tension fairly tight in first rnd.
Shown in MC - Rowan Pure Wool DK shade 13 Enamel (MC)
NEEDLES set size 3mm (US size 3) double pointed needles Rnd 16 (inc) K9, m1, k9. 19sts
TENSION 24 stitches and 35 rows counted over a 10cm/ 4in square Shape back of head
working stocking stitch in main colour and using size 3mm (US size 3)
Rnd 17 (dec) K16, skpo. Turn and work on sts for Head Back as follows:
double pointed needles
NOTIONS small circles felt in eye colour and tiny seed beads for the Row 18 (dec) Sl1, p13, p2tog, turn. 17sts
eyes, black sewing thread and needle, 5 small safety pins for holding Row 19 (dec) Sl1, k11, skpo, turn. 16sts
stitches, tape measure, toy filling Row 20 (dec) Sl1, p8, p2tog, turn. 15sts
Special instructions and abbreviations can be found at the end of the patterns Row 21 (dec) Sl1, k4, skpo, turn. 14sts
Row 22 (dec) Sl1, p2, p2tog, turn. 13sts
Row 23 Sl1, then k8 sts to beg the rnd. Place marker. Join for working in
Greyhound the rnd.
The Princess Snowdrop Rnd 24 K13.
Muzzle, head, body & legs make as one piece Rep last row once more.
Beg with the tip of the nose leave a long tail end and cast on 4 sts, using Shape neck
size 3mm (US size 3) needles. Rnd 26 Kfb, k4, k3tog, k4, kfb.
1st row (WS) P. Rnd 27 K13.
Row 2 (inc) Kfb, k2, kfb. 6sts Rep last 2 rows twice more, re-arranging the sts: N1 - 3sts, n2 - 7sts, n3 -
Row 3 Purl into front then knit into back of st to increase one stitch, 3sts.
(pfkb), p to last st, pfkb. 8sts Rnd 32 (inc) [Kfb] twice, k3, k3tog, k3, [kfb] twice. 15sts
Rep last 2 rows once more. 12sts Rnd 33 K15.
Work 6 rows st st, ending with a WS row. Rnd 34 (inc) [Kfb] twice, k4, k3tog, k4, [kfb] twice. 17sts
Shape front of head Rnd 35 K17.
Row 12 (inc) K4, [kfb] four times, k4. 16sts Place marker, work 5 rnds st st (every rnd k). Remove marker.
Row 13 P. Divide for front
Shape jaw Rnd 41 into rnd 42 K4, slip last 8 sts off needles onto a safety pin, k9.
Row 14 (inc) Kfb, k to last st kfb. 18sts Turn.
Row 15 (WS) P. WS facing work back and forth as follows:
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Front legs Row 56 Sl1, k3, turn

Row 42 WS facing, cast on 22 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 53sts Row 55 P5, turn.
*Shape feet Row 56 Sl1, k3, turn.
Row 43 (WS) P5, turn. Row 57 Sl1, p2, turn.
Row 44 Sl1, k3, turn. Row 58 Sl1, k1, turn.
Row 45 Sl1, p2, turn. Row 59 Sl1, p19 to end of Inside Leg, turn.
Row 46 Sl1, k1, turn. Bind off 22 sts.
Row 47 Sl1, p to end. Leave 9sts from Back onto the needle as you return to Front as follows:
Row 43 K5, turn. Front
Row 44 Sl1, p3, turn. Slip 8 sts at neck off safety pin onto 3mm (US size 3) dpns.
Row 45 Sl1, k2, turn. Row 42 RS facing rejoin yarn. K across.
Row 46 Sl1, p1, turn. Work 7 rows st st.
Row 47 Sl1, k to end. Join Front to Back
Work 3 rows st st. Row 50 (RS) Divide as follows: N1 - K8sts, n2 - k4sts,, n3 - K5sts.
Inside front left leg RS of knitting facing, join for working in the rnd Pull tension tight as you k
Row 51 K22, turn. across junctions.
Working on these last 22 sts for inside left leg, cont in st st for 3 rows. Shape tummy
Shape inside left foot Rnd 51 (inc) K8, [k2, m1] twice, k1, [m1, k2] twice. 21sts
Row 55 (RS) K5, turn. Rnd 52 K21.
Row 56 Sl1, p3, turn. Rnd 53 (inc) [K2, m1] six times, k2, kfb, k2, (m1, k2) twice, m1. 31sts
Row 57 Sl1, k2, turn. Rnd 54 K31.
Row 58 Sl1, p1, turn. Rep last rnd six times more.
Row 59 Sl1, k19 to end of Inside Leg. Turn. Rnd 61 (dec) K2tog, k7, k2tog, k20. 29sts
Bind off 22 sts. Rnd 62 (dec) K2tog, K5, k2tog, k20. 27sts
Row 51 WS facing, rejoin yarn to foot end of Right Leg. P22. Turn Rnd 63 (dec) K2, k3tog, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k2, k2tog. 21sts
Inside front right leg Rnd 64 K21.
Work 3 rows st st, so ending with a RS row. Rnd 65 (dec) K1, k3 tog, k17. 19sts
Shape inside right foot Rnd 66 K19.
Row 55 P5, turn. . Rnd 67 (dec) K3tog, k16. 17sts
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Rnd 68 K17. Next row K5, turn.

Rep last rnd eight times more. Next row Sl1, p3, turn.
Divide for back legs and tail Next row Sl1, k2, turn.
Rnd 77 and into rnd 78 K19, slip last 4 sts onto a small safety pin. Cast Next row Sl1, p1, turn.
on 25 sts, k to end. Cont to work in st st, back and forth as follows: Next row Sl1, k22 to end of inside leg. Turn.
Row 78 (inc) Cast on 25 sts, p to end. 65sts Bind off 25 sts.
*Shape feet WS facing, rejoin yarn to foot end of Right Leg.
Row79 K5, turn. Inside back right leg
Row 80 Sl1, p3, turn. Next row P25. Turn, working on these last 25 sts for Inside Right Leg,
Row 81 Sl1, k2, turn. cont in st st for 3 rows.
Row 82 Sl1, p1, turn. Shape inside right foot
Row 83 Sl1, k to end. Next row P5, turn.
Row 79 P5, turn. Next row Sl1, k3, turn.
Row 80 Sl1, k3, turn. Next row Sl1, p2, turn.
Row 81 Sl1, p2, turn. Next row Sl1, k1, turn.
Row 82 Sl1, k1, turn. Next row Sl1, p22 to end of inside leg. Turn.
Row 83 Sl1, p to end Bind off 25 sts.
Back shaping RS facing, rejoin yarn to 6 sts at tail end, k2tog, k2, k2tog. 4sts
Next row K31, k3tog, k to end. 63sts Work stocking st for 5 rows, so ending with a WS row.
Next row P. Cut yarn, leave sts on needle.
Next row (dec) K30, k3tog, k to end. 61sts Join seam beneath back legs
Divide for tail Slip 4 sts held on safety pin at Under Body onto 3mm (US size 3) dpn.
Next row P28, slip next 5 sts of needle onto a safety pin, cont to purl Cut working yarn leaving about 60cm (1ft) tail. Hold needles parallel in left
28sts beneath the tail to end of row. Keep tension tight to avoid large gaps hand as if ready to knit across the row. Work Kitchener Stitch to close seam.
as you purl above the sts held on the pin. 56sts
Inside back left leg Tail
Next row K25. Turn, working on these last 25 sts for Inside Left Leg, cont Slip 5 sts off safety pin at Tail onto a 3mm (US size 3) dpn.
in st st for 3 rows. K5 work as i cord - sts to other end of dpn without turning, for 7 rnds.
Shape inside left foot Next rnd (dec) K2tog, k1, k2tog. 3sts
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Next rnd (dec) K2tog, k1, k2tog. 3sts Using tweezers, stuff leg at ‘knee’ and ‘thigh’ to create the desired leg shape
Cont to work as i cord until entire tail measures approx. 10cm/ 4in. shaping foot as you do so.
Cut yarn, thread end through last 3 sts. Fasten off, weave in ends. Join seam around Front Leg, stuff body quite firmly.
WS facing, fold Back Leg in half joining row ends, matching foot shaping.
Ears make 2 alike Leaving tops (cast off edges) of legs un-sewn, mattress seam rows ends to join
Using 3mm (US size 3) needles and yarn MC (main colour), cast on 3 sts, inside leg to outer leg, work a running stitch, in and out, around CO at foot,
leaving a long tail end for sewing Ear to Head. stuff foot quite firmly, pull up tight to gather and secure. Weave tail end
1st row (WS) P. through stuffing back inside foot. Using tweezers, stuff leg at ‘knee’ and ‘thigh’
Row 2 Kfb, k to last st, kfb. 5sts to create the desired leg shape shaping foot as you do so.
Rep last 2 rows once more. 7sts This next bit is a little tricky, try gently pressing the pieces first to stop them
Row 5 P. from curling: join seam around Back Leg, stuffing back of body, quite firmly, as
Row 6 K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. 5sts you do so. If necessary backstitch any gap from under Tail. Take time to really
Rep last 2 rows once more. 3sts ‘sculpt’ your dog to give him a greyhound body shape.
Row 9 P3tog. 1st
Fasten off. Weave in end.

To make up
Carefully turn out to WS. Backstitch row ends at side of head and along
nose. Carefully turn out to RS. Use your finger to push out the shaping at
Nose.
Sew on the eyes - the beads onto the felt onto the head.
Stuff head and neck fairly firmly.
Embroider a black nose, using black thread, at the top of ‘nose’ shaping.
With CO end at ear join to each side of Head at head shaping decreases.
WS of Front Leg fold leg in half joining row ends and matching foot
shaping. Leave tops (cast off edges) of legs un-sewn,
mattress seam rows ends to join inside leg to outer leg, work a running
stitch, in and out, around CO at foot, stuff foot quite firmly, pull up tight
to gather and secure.
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FINISHED SIZE 61⁄2cm/ 21⁄2in long x 14cm/ 51⁄2in waist Armholes

YARN small amount DK (light-worsted) weight (MC) and heart (H) Rnd 14 (dec) K3, bind off next 6 sts, k10, bind off next 6 sts, k2. 17sts
Shown in MC - Jamieson’s DK shade 375 Flax (MC), Rowan Soft Baby
Rnd 14 K next 3 sts so that 6 sts are on one needle, turn and work back
shade 033 Sea Pink (H)
NEEDLES set size 3mm (US size 3) double pointed needles and forth on these 6 sts for underside of jacket.
TENSION 24 stitches and 35 rows counted over a 10cm/ 4in square Rnd 14 P.
working stocking stitch in main colour and using size 3mm (US size 3)
Work 2 rows st st.
double pointed needles
Cut yarn, leave sts on needle.
Special instructions and abbreviations can be found at the end of the patterns Rnd 14 RS facing, rejoin yarn to 13sts from top of jacket. Skpo, k9, k2tog.
11sts
Work 3 rows st st.
Sweet heart jacket Join top to bottom
Jacket Rnd 14 K11 from Top, from 6 sts at Bottom k2tog, k2, k2tog. 15sts.
Using 3mm (US size 3) dpns cast on 25 sts in yarn MC – main colour. Join in rnd.
1st row (inc) Kfb, k to last st, kfb. 27sts Keep tension tight as you knit across the tops of the sleeves.
Row 2 (inc) Purl into front, knit into back of st (pfkb) p to last st, pfkb. 29sts Rnd 14 K15.
Work 2 rows st st. Rep last rnd three times more.
Knit to divide all 29 sts over 3 dpns as follows: N1 - K10, n2 – k9, n3 – Bind off.
k10. RS of knitting facing join for working in the rnd. Weave in all ends, neatening around the armholes.
Rnd 6 K29.
Add heart motif
Join in heart colour (H) and strand across the back of the jacket until
needed as follows:
Rnd 7 (MC) K14, (H) k1, (MC) k14.
Rnd 8 (MC) K13, (H) k3, (MC) k13.
Rnd 9 (MC) K12, (H) k5, (MC) k12.
Rep last rnd twice more.
Rnd 10 (MC) K12, (H) k2, (MC) k1, (H) k2, (MC) k12.
Rnd 11 (MC) K13, (H) k1, (MC), k1, (H) k1, (MC), k13.
Cut yarn H.