Select an unobstructed location on your interior wall to mount the indoor air

conditioning unit..
 Avoid locations where gas may leak or where oil mist or sulphur exists.
 The indoor unit requires at least 6" (15 cm) of open space surrounding its top and sides.
The unit should also be mounted at least 7 feet (2.13 m) above the ground.
 Install the unit at least 3.3 feet (1 m) away from antenna, power or connecting lines that
are used for television, radio, home security systems, intercoms or telephones. The electrical
noise from these sources could cause operational problems for your air conditioner.
 The wall should be strong enough to hold the weight of the unit. You may need to
construct a wood or metal frame to provide added support.
 Avoid direct sunlight and heat sources

Secure the mounting plate to the interior wall.

 Hold the mounting plate against the wall where you want to install the indoor unit.
 Use a level to make sure the plate is both horizontally level.
 Drill holes into the wall at appropriate spots to affix the plate to the wall.
 Insert plastic anchors into the holes. Secure the plate to the wall with tapping screws.

Create a hole in the wall to fit the piping.

 Find the best spot for the hole to the exterior based on the opening in the mounting
bracket. You should also consider the length of the pipe and the distance that it needs to travel to
reach the outside unit.
 Drill a hole that is 3" (7.5 cm) in diameter through the wall. The hole should slope
downward toward the exterior to ensure adequate drainage.
 Insert a flexible flange into the hole.

Check the electrical connections.

 Lift the unit’s front panel and remove the cover.
 Be sure the cable wires are connected to the screw terminals. Also, make sure that they
match the diagram that comes with the unit.
Connect the pipes.
 Run the piping from the indoor unit toward the hole drilled through the wall. Minimize
bending to ensure that the unit performs well.
 Cut a length of PVC pipe 1/4" (6 millimeters) shorter than the length between your
interior and exterior wall surfaces.
 Place the pipe cap on the interior end of the PVC pipe. Insert the pipe into the hole in the
wall.
 Bind the copper pipes, the power cables and the drain pipe together with electrical tape.
Place the drain pipe on the bottom to ensure a free flow of water.
 Secure the pipe to the indoor unit. Use 2 wrenches, working in opposite directions, to
tighten the connection.
 Join the water drainage pipe to the indoor unit’s base.
 Run the bound pipes and cables through the hole in the wall. Make sure that the drainage
pipe allows water to drain in an appropriate place.
 Secure the indoor unit to the mounting plate by pressing the unit against the mounting
plate.

Choose the best place to install the outdoor unit.

 The outdoor unit’s location needs to be away from any heavily trafficked, dusty or hot
areas.
 The outdoor unit needs 12" of space surrounding its perimeter to ensure proper
functioning.

Lay the concrete pad on the ground and make sure that it is level. 
The pad should be high enough so that the condenser will sit above the level of winter snows.
 Set the outdoor condenser on top of the pad. Use rubber cushioning under the unit's feet
to minimize vibration.
 Make sure that no antenna of a radio or television is within 10 feet (3 meters) of the
outdoor condenser.
Connect the electrical wires.
 Remove the cover.
 Refer to the unit’s wiring diagram and make sure the cable wires are connected as the
diagram suggests. Following the manufacturer's instructions for wiring is crucial.
 Fasten the cables with a cable clamp and replace the cover.
Secure the pipes’ flare nuts to the corresponding pipes on the outdoor unit.

Bleed the air and humidity from the refrigerant circuit.

 Remove the caps from the 2-way and 3-way valves and from the service port.
 Connect a vacuum pump hose to the service port.
 Turn the vacuum on until it reaches an absolute vacuum of 10mm Hg.
 Close the low pressure knob and then turn off the vacuum.
 Test all of the valves and joints for leaks.
 Disconnect the vacuum. Replace the service port and caps.
Wrap the joints of the piping with insulating covering and insulating tape. Affix the piping to the
wall with clamps.Seal up the hole in the wall using expanding polyurethane foam.

AIR CONDITIONER PROBLEMS

Air conditioner not cooling
Air conditioner fan not working
Air conditioner compressor not working
Air conditioner would not turn off
Air conditioner is loud and noise
Air conditioner leaking water
Air conditioner remote not working
Air conditioner coils freezing
Air conditioner not cooling
Causes
Air Filter
If the air filter is clogged, air cannot flow properly through the air conditioner. This greatly
reduces the cooling capacity of the air conditioner. In addition, if the air filter is clogged, the
evaporator coils will frost over. To remove debris from the air filter, try cleaning the filter. If it is
not possible to clean the air filter, replace it.

Condenser Coils are Dirty

The condenser coils dissipate the heat as the refrigerant passes through the coils. If the condenser
coils are dirty, they won’t be able to dissipate the heat as effectively. As debris builds up on the
coils, the air conditioner will become less efficient, causing the air conditioner to work harder to
cool down. If the coils are significantly dirty, the air conditioner will not be able to maintain the
proper temperature, and the compressor will run continuously in an attempt to cool the room.
Check the condenser coils to determine if they are dirty. If the condenser coils are dirty, clean
them.

Compressor
The compressor might be defective. However, this is not usually the case. Before replacing the
compressor, be sure to check more commonly defective components—particularly the overload
protector and the compressor capacitor. If the compressor is defective, it should only be replaced
by a licensed technician.

Air conditioner fan not working

CAUSES
DUAL SHAFT MOTOR
The dual shaft fan motor (or circulation fan motor) might be defective. The circulation fan motor
has two fan blades: one on either side of the motor. On one side, the fan blade draws in outside
air over the condensing coil to dissipate the heat. On the other side, the fan blade directs the air
over the evaporator coil. The dual shaft fan motor has bearings that can loosen or bind over time.
To determine if the motor bearings are defective, wiggle the motor shaft. If the motor shaft is
loose, or if it won’t turn at all, replace the fan motor.

Fan Motor
Try turning the blade by hand. If the blade does not turn freely, this indicates that the motor
bearings are worn out. If the motor bearings are worn out, replace the motor. If the blade turns
freely, test the incoming power to the fan motor. If power is getting to the fan motor, but the
motor won’t run, this also indicates that the motor is defective and should be replaced.

Relay Board
The relay board provides voltage to many components of the air conditioner, including the fan
motor. If the relay board isn’t working properly, the fan might not run. Relay boards are often
misdiagnosed; before replacing the board, make sure you check more commonly defective parts
—particularly the fan motor capacitor and the fan motor itself. If you are certain that all of the
other components are working properly, replace the relay board.

Air conditioner compressor not working

Causes
Temperature Control Thermostat
The temperature control thermostat has electrical contacts inside that burn out over time. It is
possible for the thermostat to still turn on the fan motor but not the compressor motor.

Temperature Control Board

The temperature control board provides voltage to the fan motor and compressor. If the control
board is defective, it may stop providing voltage to the compressor. Control boards are often
misdiagnosed. Before replacing the temperature control board, make sure you check more
commonly defective parts—particularly the compressor overload, capacitor and the compressor
itself. If you are certain that all of the other components are working properly, replace the
temperature control board.

Thermostat
The thermostat monitors the temperature of the air. When the air temperature rises above a set
point, the thermostat activates a switch to provide power to the fan and compressor. If the
thermostat is defective, it may prevent the compressor from running. If you determine that the
compressor is at fault, replace it.
Air conditioner would not turn off
Causes
Condenser Coils are Dirty
The condenser coils dissipate the heat as the refrigerant passes through the coils. If the condenser
coils are dirty, they won’t be able to dissipate the heat as effectively. As debris builds up on the
coils, the air conditioner will become less efficient, causing the air conditioner to work harder to
cool down. If the coils are significantly dirty, the air conditioner will not be able to maintain the
proper temperature, and the compressor will run continuously in an attempt to cool the room.
Check the condenser coils to determine if they are dirty. If the condenser coils are dirty, clean
them.

Temperature Control Thermostat

The temperature control thermostat provides voltage to the fan motor and compressor. If the
thermostat has shorted out, it might send continuous voltage to the compressor and cause the
compressor to run all the time. To determine if the thermostat is shorted out, use a multimeter to
test it for continuity. If the thermostat has continuity all the time, this indicates that it is shorted
out and should be replaced. (Note: Some thermostats may also control a heater and, as a result,
will have three terminals. Refer to your air conditioner’s wiring diagram for more information.)

Thermostat
The thermostat monitors the temperature of the air. When the air temperature rises above a set
point, the thermostat activates a switch to provide power to the fan and compressor. If the
thermostat is defective, it may cause the compressor to run continuously. To determine if the
thermostat is defective, set the air conditioner to cooling and then use a multimeter to test the
thermostat for continuity. If the thermostat does not have continuity while the air conditioner is
set to cooling, replace the thermostat. (Note: Some thermostats may also control a heater and, as
a result, will have three terminals. Refer to your air conditioner’s wiring diagram for more
information.)

Air conditioner is loud and noise

Causes
Compressor
When the compressor is wearing out, it generates more noise than usual. When this happens, it is
not necessary to replace the compressor—compressors often last for years after they become
noisy. However, if you would prefer to have a new compressor, have a licensed professional
replace it.

Dual Shaft Fan Motor

The fan motor or dual shaft fan motor has bearings which are usually permanently lubricated.
However, over several years, the lubrication will break down, causing the motor to become
noisy. If this happens, replace the dual shaft fan motor.

Fan Blade
Air conditioners have a fan blade in the front and a fan blade in the rear. Check both fan blades
for damage. If a fan blade is damaged, or is rubbing against the fan housing, replace it.

Air conditioner leaking water

Causes
Leaning Too Far Forward
If the window or through-wall air conditioner is leaking water from the front, this indicates that
the air conditioner is leaning too far forward. The air conditioner is designed to expel the
condensate water from the back of the unit. Because of this, the air conditioner must be installed
so that it leans back on a 1-2 degree angle.

Air conditioner remote not working

Causes
Remote Control
First, try replacing the batteries in the remote control. If installing fresh batteries doesn’t solve
the problem and you can still operate the air conditioner manually, the remote control might be
defective. If you think the remote control is defective, replace it.

Main Control Board

The main control board has an infrared receiver that receives signals from the remote. If the
infrared receiver is not working, the remote control will not be able to communicate with the
control board. If you suspect the main control board is defective, replace it.

Dirty air filter

If the air filter becomes clogged with dirt, it restricts airflow over the evaporator coils. If the
airflow is reduced, the evaporator coils get too cold, which then causes the humidity in the room
to condense on the coils and freeze. As frost accumulates on the coils, the frost restricts the
airflow even more. Eventually, the entire evaporator coil assembly will frost over, causing the
airflow to be completely restricted. If the air filter is dirty, replace it.

Air conditioner coils freezing

Causes
Sealed System Leak
If the air conditioner coils are freezing in only one area, there may be a sealed system (or
refrigerant) leak. This is normally a very expensive repair. Repairs to the sealed system must
only be performed by a licensed technician.