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Investigation of bending and drape properties of woven fabrics and the effects of fabric constructional
parameters and warp tension on these properties
Gülcan Süle
Textile Research Journal 2012 82: 810 originally published online 13 February 2012
DOI: 10.1177/0040517511433152

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Original article
Textile Research Journal
82(8) 810–819

Investigation of bending and drape ! The Author(s) 2012

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properties of woven fabrics and the effects DOI: 10.1177/0040517511433152
trj.sagepub.com
of fabric constructional parameters and
warp tension on these properties

Gülcan Süle

Abstract
In this research, bending and drape properties of woven fabrics and the effect of weft density, weft yarn count and warp
tension on these properties were investigated. Higher values were found for bending rigidities of the fabrics woven with
thicker weft yarns and at higher weft densities. It was seen that bending rigidities of the fabrics in the warp directions
increased as warp tension increased. Bending rigidities in the weft directions did not show any significant change, such as
an increase or decrease depending on any change in warp tension. In the case of the fabrics woven with thicker weft
yarns, the overall fabric bending rigidity increased as warp tension increased. Considering drape coefficients of the
fabrics, it was observed that the drape coefficient increased as the weft density increased and weft yarn became thicker.
The drape coefficient did not significantly vary depending on the variations in the warp tension.

Keywords
Bending, drape, woven fabric, warp crimp, weft crimp, warp tension

‘Drape’ is a term used to describe the way a fabric
hangs under its own weight. It has an important bear-
ing on how good a garment looks in use.1 Basically,
fabric drape is not an independent fabric property. It
depends on the fabric parameters, such as structure,
yarn type and fiber content, as well as its finishing treat-
ments. The study of objective evaluations of fabric
drape started with Pierce,2 who initiated research in
fabric bending measurements using a cantilever test to
assess two-dimensional drape. Chu et al.3,4 developed
the standard F.R.L. drapemeter for the measurement
of three-dimensional drape. Cusick5 introduced a
simple method to calculate the drape coefficient and
found that it depends on both shear stiffness and bend-
ing length. Based on measurements from the drape-
meter using Cusick’s principle, most researches
reported the relationship between fabric drape and
the values of mechanical properties obtained in the
warp and weft directions.6–14 In general, bending,
shearing and extension properties were shown to
affect fabric drape.
Recently, several computer techniques have been
developed or used for the simulation of fabric
behavior.15–19 Vangheluwe and Kienkens11 calculated
the drape index using an image analysis technology,
based on the number of pixels of the projected area
of the draped fabrics. Wu et al.20 used image analysis
to simulate the mechanical properties of fabrics.
Ruckman et al.21 integrated Cusick’s drapemeter prin-
ciple with the image analysis technique to measure the
static and dynamic drape of fabrics. Robson and
Long22 evaluated drape by automatic characterization
of drape profiles using an image analysis technique. The
study establishes a strong correlation between the tra-
ditional cut and weight method of calculating the drape
and the image analysis method.
Fabric bending rigidity is one of the most important
factors influencing the handling and comfort of
Faculty of Engineering & Architecture, Uludag University, Turkey.
Corresponding author:
Gülcan Süle, Faculty of Engineering & Architecture, Uludag University,
Gorukle Campus, Bursa 16059, Turkey
Email: gulcan@uludag.edu.tr

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Süle 811

apparel; hence, the bending behavior of fabrics has density (33 threads/cm) and warp yarn count (150
received considerable attention in the literature. Since denier/36 filaments) remained the same. Twisted poly-
the 1930s fabric bending behavior has received much ester (yarn twist of 350 turns/meter in the Z direction)
attention from scientists and has been widely investi- warp yarn and cotton-carded ring-spun weft yarns are
gated using different equipment based on the simple used in weaving fabrics. Warp tension is a parameter
investigation of fabric deformation under its own that represents the tension of all ends measured by the
weight, for example, the cantilever and loop meth- loom tension sensor. This parameter was entered from
ods2,23,24 or more sophisticated methods measuring the machine computer and used to adjust warp tension
moment–curvature or force–angle relationships.25–27 by the tension control system of the air jet loom. The
In practice, the tools that are used to measure this prop- values of parameters changed for different fabric con-
erty are the KES-FB2 and FAST-2 bending meter. The structions are presented in Table 1.
KES-FB2 pure bending tester measures bending rigid- The test to determine the ‘Stiffness of fabric’ was
ity per unit width and the hysteresis of the bending carried out according to ASTM D1388,33 using a stiff-
movement. The FAST-2 bending meter is based on ness tester. Before the tests, the samples were condi-
Pierce’s bending length and measures a fabric’s two tioned under laboratory conditions (25 C, 65%
bending properties, namely the fabric bending length, relative humidity (RH)). The tests were performed on
which is related to the fabric’s ability to drape, and the each fabric sample at five replicas in both the warp and
fabric bending rigidity, which is related to the quality of weft directions. Equation (1) was used to calculate the
stiffness when a fabric is handled.28 bending rigidities in the warp and weft directions:
Fabric bending rigidity is proportional to the fiber
bending rigidity if all other factors about fabric con- G ¼ Wc3 ð1Þ
struction, such as yarn count, yarn density, fabric pat-
tern and finishing condition, remain the same. Studies where G is the fabric bending rigidity (mgcm), W is the
showed that fabric density, yarn thickness and fabric weight per unit area (mg/cm2) and the bending length c
pattern affect the bending rigidity of the fabrics. As the is equal to half the length of the overhang (cm):
yarn density and thickness increased and the floating
length of the yarns decreased, the bending rigidity of Go ¼ ðGw Gf Þ1=2 ð2Þ
the fabrics increased.1,29–31
There seems to be no doubt that tension during where Go is the overall fabric bending rigidity (mgcm),
weaving has an important effect on the quality of the Gw is the warp bending rigidity (mgcm) and Gf is the
fabric. The effect of weft tension on physical properties weft bending rigidity (mgcm).
of woven fabrics has been researched by Nosraty
et al.32 In this study, a weft yarn tension controller
was implemented in a single nozzle air jet loom for
controlling the weft yarn tension variations during Table 1. Constructional parameters of the woven fabrics
weft insertion. The fabric samples were woven with
and without controlled weft yarn tension and their Warp tension Weft density
physical properties were measured. The results Weft count (kN) (threads / cm)
showed that the evenness of drape percentage of fabrics Nm 40.64 0.5 14/20/-
was affected by using the weft tension controller. The (Ne 24/1) 1.0 14/20/-
coefficient of variation (CV%) of fabric drape was
1.25 14/20/26
decreased from 5.73% for fabrics woven in the uncon-
1.5 14/20/26
trolled weft yarn tension state to 3.0% for fabrics
woven in controlled tension. 1.75 14/20/26
The purpose of the present work is to analyze bend- Nm 60.96 0.5 14/20/-
ing and drape properties of woven fabrics; the effects of (Ne 36/1) 1.0 14/20/26
weft density, weft yarn count and warp tension on these 1.25 14/20/26
properties are investigated. 1.5 14/20/26
1.75 14/20/26
Experimental details Nm 84.67 0.5 14/20/26
(Ne 50/1) 1.0 14/20/26
In this study, 42 plain woven gray fabrics with different 1.25 14/20/26
weft counts, weft densities and warp tensions were 1.5 14/20/26
used. The fabrics were woven under controlled mill
1.75 14/20/26
conditions. The type of warp and weft yarn, warp

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812
The drape coefficient values of the fabrics were
measured on the Cusick drapemeter according to ISO
9073-9.34 The tests performed on each fabric sample for
the five replicas and drape coefficient were determined.
A low drape coefficient indicates easy deformation of a
fabric and a high drape coefficient indicates less
deformation.
It is well known that yarn crimp in a woven fabric is
an important parameter that affects most of its physical
properties. Therefore, warp and weft crimps in gray
fabrics were measured according to the ASTM
D3883-0435 standard after the fabrics were conditioned
under laboratory conditions.
Factor analysis of variance (ANOVA) was used to
evaluate the influence of weft yarn count, weft density
and warp tension on fabric bending rigidity and fabric
drape coefficient. The p-values associated with F-tests
for a three-way completely randomized ANOVA are
presented in Table 2.
Results and discussion
Fabric bending rigidity in the warp direction
Figures 1–3 show the bending rigidities of the fabrics in
the warp directions according to the fabric construc-
tional parameters and warp tension. As seen in the fig-
ures, as the weft density increases and the weft yarn
becomes thicker, the bending rigidities of the fabrics
in the warp directions increase. The highest bending
rigidity in the warp direction was obtained in the
fabric woven with a warp tension of 1.75 kN, with a
weft yarn of Nm 40.64 (Ne 24/1), at a weft density of
26 threads/cm. The lowest bending rigidity in the warp
direction was obtained in the fabric woven under a
Table 2. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) p-values for overall bending rigidities of the fabrics and drape coefficients of the fabrics (***
denotes the significance of the effect of the parameters on fabric overall bending rigidity and fabric drape coefficient; ns indicates that
the factor is not significant; a ¼ 0.05)
Main effects
Weft count
Weft density
Warp tension
Interaction
Weft count x Weft density
Weft count x Warp tension
Weft density x Warp tension
Weft count x Weft density x Warp tension
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Textile Research Journal 82(8)
warp tension 0.5 kN, with a weft yarn of Nm 84.67
(Ne 50/1), at a weft density of 14 threads/cm.
As is known, bending rigidities of fabrics depend on
bending rigidities of the yarns that are used in their
weaving, and the moving ability of weft and warp
yarn in the fabric. As the yarn becomes thicker, the
bending rigidity of the fabrics in that direction
increases. In fabrics with a higher density, the relative
mobility of fibers in the yarn or of yarns in the fabric is
prevented and bending lengths of the fabrics become
higher.36 Therefore, in this study, as weft density
increased, the bending rigidity of fabrics in the warp
direction increased.
From the figures, it is seen that as warp tension
increases, the bending rigidities of the fabrics in the
warp direction increases. When warp tension was
raised from 0.5 to 1.75 kN, a 30.2% and 48.8% increase
in bending rigidity in the warp direction was observed
in the fabric woven with Nm 40.64 (Ne 24/1) weft yarn,
14 threads/cm and 20 threads/cm, respectively. The
same data for fabrics woven with weft yarn of Nm
60.96 (Ne 36/1) are 23.1% and 35.5%, respectively,
and 17.5% and 33.5%, respectively, for the fabrics
woven with a weft yarn of Nm 84.67 (Ne 50/1). When
warp tension was raised from 1.25 to 1.75 kN, 13%,
4.2% and 8% bending rigidity in the warp direction
increase was observed in the fabric woven with Nm
40.64 (Ne 24/1) weft yarn, 26 threads/cm, Nm 60.96
(Ne 36/1) weft yarn, 26 threads/cm and Nm 84.67
(Ne 50/1) weft yarn, 26 threads/cm, respectively.
From a general point of view, the increase in bending
rigidity in the warp direction is higher in fabrics woven
with thicker weft yarns and/or at higher weft densities.
Although a higher increase in bending rigidity in fabrics
woven at a weft density of 26 threads/cm, in
ANOVA p-value
Fabric’s overall bending rigidity Fabric’s drape coefficient
0.0000*** 0.0000***
0.0000 *** 0.0000 ***
0.0000 *** 0.6000 ns
0.0000*** 0.0000***
0.0000*** 0.0000 ***
0.0000*** 0.0000 ***
0.0000*** 0.0000***
Süle
Figure 1. Bending rigidities of the fabrics in the warp direction
for Nm 40.64 (Ne 24/1) weft yarn.
Figure 2. Bending rigidities of the fabrics in the warp direction
for Nm 60.96 (Ne 36/1) weft yarn.
Figure 3. Bending rigidities of the fabrics in the warp direction
for Nm 84.67 (Ne 50/1) weft yarn.
comparison with fabrics woven at other weft densities,
was expected, it was seen that this increase was less than
expected. The reason may be the fact that the evalua-
tion was conducted for these fabrics between 1.25 and
1.75 kN, because fabrics could not be woven with all
weft yarns and under all warp tension values at a weft
density of 26 threads/cm.
Warp and weft crimps of all fabrics were measured
to explain the difference between bending rigidities in
the warp direction in these fabrics, which have the same
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813
structural parameters but are woven under different
warp tensions. Results of the measurements are
shown in Table 3. Considering these results, it was
seen that as the warp tension increased, warp crimp
decreased and weft crimp increased. Warp and weft
yarns take on crimp when the shed is closed on a
newly inserted weft yarn. When the warp yarns are
closed on a newly inserted weft yarn, the newly inserted
weft yarn is held by selvedge warps and the straight
weft turns into a crimped form during beat up.
Because of this, the weft yarn elongates and changes
its cross section. At the same time, warp yarns between
two wefts also elongate because of crimp. However, the
elongation in warp yarns affects the entire warp length
and, because of this, the increase in warp tension due to
the crimp becomes less compared to the weft yarn.37
This interaction between warp and weft yarns during
fabric formation gives rise to the warp and weft crimp-
tension relation . An increase in warp tension causes
more pressure on the weft yarn and forces it to take
more crimp and an increase in weft tension forces the
warp yarn to take on more crimp. As a result of this
relation, an increase in warp tension decreases warp
crimp and an increase in weft tension decreases weft
crimp. An increase in weft crimp with an increase in
warp tension becomes greater when the weft yarn
becomes thinner, and the weft density increases as the
weft crimp level increases. Similarly, the decrease in
warp crimp becomes greater with an increase in warp
tension as the warp crimp level weft yarn becomes
thicker, and weft density increases because of the
increase in warp crimp level.
When warp tension was raised from 0.5 to 1.75 kN,
the decrease in warp crimp, in fabrics woven with weft
yarn of Nm 40.64 (Ne 24/1), was 18.9% with a weft
density of 14 threads/cm and it occurred as 20.2% for
the fabrics woven with weft yarn of Nm 60.96 (Ne 36/
1), and as 14.5% for the fabrics woven with weft yarn
of Nm 84.67 (Ne 50/1). When warp tension was raised
from 0.5 to 1.75 kN, the decrease in warp crimp in fab-
rics woven with weft yarn of Nm 40.64 (Ne 24/1) was
20.2% with a weft density of 20 threads/cm, and it
occurred as 18.4% for fabrics woven with weft yarn
of Nm 60.96 (Ne 36/1), and as 16.1% for fabrics
woven with weft yarn of Nm 84.67 (Ne 50/1). When
warp tension was raised from 1.25 to 1.75 kN, the
decrease in warp crimp in fabrics woven with weft
yarn of Nm 40.64 (Ne 24/1) was 11.3% with a weft
density of 26 threads/cm and it occurred as 8.2% for
fabrics woven with weft yarn of Nm 60.96 (Ne 36/1),
and as 8.1% for fabrics woven with weft yarn of Nm
84.67 (Ne 50/1). These results indicate that the decrease
in the warp crimp, depending on the increase in the
warp tension, generally increases when the weft yarn
becomes thicker and weft density becomes higher.
814 Textile Research Journal 82(8)

Table 3. Warp and Weft crimps of the fabrics. Analysis of var- The decrease in warp crimp, which is seen in fabrics
iance p-values for overall bending rigidities of the fabrics and woven at a weft density of 26 threads/cm, may have
drape coefficients of the fabrics (*** denotes the significance of occurred at a lower level due to the reason mentioned
the effect of the parameters on fabric’s overall bending rigidity above. The fact that the crimp of warp yarns decreases
and fabric’s drape coefficient; ns indicates that the factor is not as warp tension increases makes these yarns more resis-
significant, a ¼ 0.05)
tant to bending in the fabric.31 As a result, higher bend-
Warp Warp Weft ing rigidity in the warp direction was obtained in the
Weft Weft density tension crimp crimp fabrics woven under higher warp tension. The increase
count (threads/cm) (kN) (%) (%) in bending rigidity in the warp direction occurred at
Nm 40.64 14 0.5 7.9 3.4 higher levels in the fabrics in which the increase in
(Ne24/1) 1.0 7.6 3.8 warp tension caused a decrease in yarn crimp at
1.25 7.0 3.9 higher levels (fabrics woven with thicker weft yarns
1.5 6.7 4.0 and/or at higher weft densities).
1.75 6.4 4.1
20 0.5 10.4 3.8
Fabric bending rigidity in the weft direction
1.0 9.7 4.2
1.25 9.2 4.1 Figures 4–6 show the bending rigidities of the fabrics in
1.5 8.9 4.4 the weft direction according to fabric constructional
1.75 8.3 4.7 parameters and warp tension. As occurred in the case
26 0.5 – – of bending rigidities in the warp direction, as the weft
1.0 – – density increases and the weft yarn becomes thicker, the
1.25 12.4 5.1 bending rigidities of fabrics in the weft direction
1.5 11.6 5.4 increase.
1.75 11 5.5 Bending rigidity in the weft direction did not show
Nm 60.96 14 0.5 6.7 3.5 any significant change, such as an increase or decrease,
(Ne 36/1) 1.0 6.1 3.8 depending on any change in warp tension, except the
1.25 5.8 4.0 fabrics woven with weft yarns of Nm 60.96 (Ne 36/1)
1.5 5.6 3.9 and Nm 84.67 (Ne 50/1) at a weft density of 26 threads/
1.75 5.5 4.2 cm, in which bending rigidity in the weft direction
20 0.5 7.6 3.8 decreased as warp tension increased. This decrease
1.0 7.0 4.2 occurred as 3.8% for the fabrics woven with weft
1.25 6.6 4.5 yarn of Nm 60.96 (Ne 36/1) and 5.9% for the fabrics
1.5 6.4 4.7 woven with weft yarn of Nm 84.67 (Ne 50/1), as the
1.75 6.2 4.8 warp tension was raised from 1.25 to 1.75 kN.
26 0.5 – – According to the weft crimp values of the fabrics in
1.0 9.3 4.7 Table 3, it was seen that the increase in weft crimp
1.25 8.5 5.4 occurred at higher levels depending on the increase in
1.5 8.1 5.5 warp tension in the fabrics woven with thinner weft
1.75 7.8 5.9 yarns and/or at higher weft densities. When warp ten-
Nm 84.67 14 0.5 5.5 4.1 sion was raised from 0.5 to 1.75 kN, the increase in
(Ne 50/1) 1.0 5.2 4.3 weft crimp in fabrics woven with weft yarn of Nm
1.25 5.0 4.8 40.64 (Ne 24/1) was 20.6% with a weft density of 14
1.5 4.8 5.0 threads/cm, 20.0% for fabrics woven with weft yarn of
1.75 4.7 5.2 Nm 60.96 (Ne 36/1), and as 26.8% for fabrics woven
20 0.5 6.3 4.6 with weft yarn of Nm 84.67 (Ne 50/1). When warp
1.0 5.7 5.0 tension was raised from 0.5 to 1.75 kN, the increase in
1.25 5.6 5.4 weft crimp in fabrics woven with weft yarn of Nm
1.5 5.4 5.2 40.64 (Ne 24/1) was 23.7% with a weft density of 20
1.75 5.2 6.0 threads/cm, 26.3% for fabrics woven with weft yarn of
26 0.5 7.6 5.4 Nm 60.96 (Ne 36/1), and as 30.4% for fabrics woven
1.0 6.6 5.9 with weft yarn of Nm 84.67 (Ne 50/1). When warp
1.25 6.2 6.2 tension was raised from 1.25 to 1.75 kN, the increase
1.5 5.8 6.6 in weft crimp in fabrics woven with weft yarn of Ne
1.75 5.7 6.9 Nm 40.64 (Ne 24/1) was 7.8% with a weft density of
26 threads/cm, 9.3% for fabrics woven with weft yarn

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Süle
Figure 4. Bending rigidities of the fabrics in the weft direction
for Nm 40.64 (Ne 24/1) weft yarn.
Figure 5. Bending rigidities of the fabrics in the weft direction
for Nm 60.96 (Ne 36/1) weft yarn.
Figure 6. Bending rigidities of the fabrics in the weft direction
for Nm 84.67 (Ne 50 1) weft yarn.
of Nm 60.96 (Ne 36/1), and as 11.3% for fabrics
woven with weft yarn of Nm 84.67 (Ne 50/1).
Despite the interpretation above, the increase in
percentage weft crimp in the fabrics woven at a weft
density value of 26 threads/cm occurred at lower
levels compared with the increase in crimp in percent-
age, which was seen in the fabrics woven at weft
densities of 14 and 20 threads/cm. The reason may
be the fact that the evaluation was conducted
for these fabrics between 1.25 and 1.75 kN, because
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815
Figure 7. Overall fabric bending rigidity for Nm 40.64 (Ne
24/1) weft yarn.
Figure 8. Overall fabric bending rigidity for Nm 60.96 (Ne
36/1) weft yarn.
Figure 9. Overall fabric bending rigidity for Nm 84.67 (Ne
50/1) weft yarn.
fabrics could not be woven with all weft yarns and
under all warp tension values at a weft density of
26 threads/cm.
The increase, which occurred at higher levels in
the weft crimp, reduced resistance of the weft yarns
in the fabric to bending, especially in the case of
fabrics woven with thinner weft yarns and/or at
higher weft densities.31 This caused a reduction in
bending rigidities of these fabrics in the weft
direction.
816 Textile Research Journal 82(8)

Overall fabric bending rigidity

Figures 7–9 show graphically the overall bending rigid-
ities of the fabrics. According to the graphics, overall
bending rigidities increase as the weft yarn becomes
thicker and weft density becomes higher, as expected.
Overall bending rigidities of the fabrics woven with a
weft yarn of Nm 40.64 (Ne 24/1) increased as the warp
tension increased, while this increase occurred at lower
levels in the fabrics woven with a weft yarn of Nm 60.96
(Ne 36/1). Any significant variation was not observed in
the overall bending rigidities of the fabrics woven with Figure 10. Drape coefficients of the fabrics for Nm 40.64 (Ne
a weft yarn of Nm 84.67 (Ne 50/1), despite the increase 24/1) weft yarn.
in warp tension.
Overall fabric bending rigidity is a geometrical mean
of bending rigidity in the warp direction and bending
rigidity in the weft direction. Particularly in the case of
fabrics woven with weft yarns of Nm 40.64 (Ne 24/1)
and Nm 60.96 (Ne 36/1), as warp tension increased,
bending rigidity in the warp direction increased, while
any significant variation was not observed in bending
rigidity in the weft direction depending on the increase
in warp tension and, therefore, variations in bending
rigidity in the warp direction and in overall fabric bend-
ing rigidity occurred similarly, depending on the change
in the warp tension. The increase in bending rigidity in
the warp direction of the fabrics woven with a weft yarn Figure 11. Drape coefficients of the fabrics for Nm 60.96 (Ne
of Nm 84.67 (Ne 50/1), depending on the increase in the 36/1) weft yarn.
warp tension, was observed at lower levels compared
with the increase that occurred in bending rigidities in
the warp direction of the fabrics woven with other weft
yarns, while bending rigidity in the weft direction did
not vary significantly as the warp tension increased,
except for the fabrics woven with a weft density of 26
threads/cm and, therefore, overall fabric bending rigid-
ity did not vary significantly despite a very insignificant
increase. In the case of fabrics woven with a weft yarn
of Nm 84.67 (Ne 50/1) at a weft density of 26 threads/
cm, as the warp tension increased, bending rigidity
in the warp direction increased (8.0%), while bending
rigidity in the weft direction decreased (5.9%)
more compared with other densities and these Figure 12. Drape coefficients ofthe fabrics for Nm 84.67 (Ne
values are close to each other. Thus, overall fabric 50/1) weft yarn.
bending rigidity did not vary significantly in these
fabrics.
fabric woven with a weft yarn of Nm 60.96 (Ne 36/1)
under the warp tension of 1.0 kN at a weft density of 26
Drapability threads/cm (DC ¼ 84.3%), while the lowest drape
Figures 10–12 show graphically drape coefficients coefficient was observed for the fabric woven with a
(DC%) of the fabrics, which were woven at different weft yarn of Nm 60.96 (Ne 36/1) under the warp
weft counts, weft densities and warp tensions. tension of 0.5 kN at a weft density of 14 threads/cm
According to the graphics, it was observed that (DC ¼ 67.1%). Drape coefficients of other fabrics
drape coefficients of the fabrics increased as the weft ranged between these two values. Drape coefficients
density increased and the weft yarn became thicker. of the fabrics did not vary significantly in a certain
The highest drape coefficient was observed for the way in response to any variation in the warp tension.

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Süle
Figure 13. Relationship between overall bending rigidities of the fabrics and drape coefficients of the fabrics.
Figure 13 shows graphically the relationship between
overall bending rigidities and drape coefficients of the
fabrics for different warp tensions. As seen in Figure 13,
the drape coefficient of the woven fabric has a close
correlation with fabric bending rigidity. Fabrics with
higher bending rigidities have higher drape coefficients
and less draping properties. The bending rigidities and
drape coefficients of the fabrics woven with thicker weft
yarns and higher weft densities were also found to be
higher in this study. Correlation coefficients between
bending rigidities and drape coefficients of the fabrics
were obtained between 0.86 and 0.96 for different warp
tensions.
ANOVA p-values for overall bending rigidities of
the fabrics and drape coefficients of the fabrics are pre-
sented in Table 2. According to the statistical analysis,
weft count, weft density and warp tension have a sig-
nificant effect on fabric overall bending rigidity. Weft
count and weft density have a significant effect on
fabric drape coefficient, while the effect of the warp
tension on fabric drape coefficient is insignificant.
Conclusions
This study was conducted to investigate drape and
bending properties of gray plain woven fabrics and
the effect of weft density, weft yarn count and warp
tension on these properties. Warp and weft yarn type,
warp count and warp density were kept constant, while
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817
weft count, weft density and warp tension were varied
in manufacturing of the fabrics. At the end of the study,
higher values were found for bending rigidities of the
fabrics woven with thicker weft yarns and at higher
weft densities in the warp, weft and overall bending
rigidities.
It was seen that bending rigidities of the fabrics in
the warp direction increased as warp tension increased.
This increase occurred at higher levels in fabrics woven
with thicker weft yarns and at higher weft densities.
Considering warp crimps of these fabrics, having the
same structural parameters but woven under different
warp tensions as the only exception, warp crimp
decreased as warp tension increased. This made these
yarns more resistant to bending in the fabric and, thus,
higher bending rigidity was achieved in the warp
direction.
Bending rigidity in the weft direction did not show
any significant change, such as an increase or decrease
depending on any change in warp tension. In the case of
fabrics woven with thinner weft yarns at a weft density
of 26 threads/cm, bending rigidity in the weft direction
decreased as the warp tension increased. This decrease
was explained depending on the increase in weft crimp
versus the increase in the warp tension in the case of
fabrics woven with thinner weft yarns and/or at higher
weft densities. The increase, which occurred at higher
levels, in the weft crimp, reduced resistance of the weft
yarns in the fabric to bending, especially in the case of
818
fabrics woven with thinner weft yarns and/or at higher
weft densities. This caused a reduction in bending rigid-
ity of these fabrics in the weft direction.
Overall fabric bending rigidity is the geometrical
mean of bending rigidity in the warp direction and
bending rigidity in the weft direction. In the case of
fabrics woven with thicker weft yarns, as warp tension
increased, overall fabric bending rigidity increased. The
increase in bending rigidity in the warp direction of the
fabrics woven with the thinnest weft yarn, except those
woven with a weft density of 26 threads/cm, depending
on the increase in the warp tension, increased at lower
levels compared with the increase that occurred in
bending rigidities of the fabrics woven with other weft
yarns, while bending rigidity in the weft direction did
not vary significantly as the warp tension increased and,
therefore, overall fabric bending rigidity did not vary
significantly despite a very insignificant increase.
Considering drape coefficients of the fabrics, it was
observed that the drape coefficient increased as the weft
density increased and weft yarn became thicker. The
drape coefficient did not significantly vary depending
on the variations in the warp tension. This study has
evidenced once more that the effect of the bending
rigidity of a fabric on its drape feature is quite signifi-
cant. In this study, the fabrics woven with thicker weft
yarns at higher weft densities gave higher bending rigid-
ities and drape coefficients.
Funding
This research received no specific grant from any funding
agency in the public, commercial or not-for-profit sectors.
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