Sorta Quickie Even More updated installation directions for our premium Superlative Siphon Sucker

System™©®QÐ
Please read these installation instructions completely BEFORE performing this modification. And if you should have ANY questions
PLEASE ask. My e-mail address is listed at the end.

What’s provided;
2) 18 3/4'” hose
1) 9” hose
1) Brass ‘T’ connector
3) Vent hose clamps
2) Brass end weights w/ pvc couplers
1) 5/16” bolt end (hose plug)
1) BMW O-ring (seal for tank to filler neck)

What You’ll Need;

3/8” (and/or 27/64” and/or 7/16”) drill bit and drill and optionally a 7/32” or other bit, round files for dressing/enlarging the holes
Diagonal cutters or end cut nippers or… for cutting off (re-attaching) existing hose clamps and/or
Small flat blade screwdriver for opening the stock latching type hose clamps
Torx 25 bit w/ratchet or hand wrench… for the 6 fuel tank cap bolts
4mm or 5/32” socket & ratchet or a small flat blade screw driver… for the new vent hose clamps
Bungie cord for holding return air assembly (R11.5) out of the way or other suitable means
Clean shop rag
Needle nose pliers, NOTE, many LeatherMan tools have pliers which can work quite well.
1 hour (or so) The record so far is about 15 minutes.

INTRO
This may sound a bit like legaleze but it should be pointed out here that this is YOUR project. These instructions and the parts you
have purchased are for you to install as you see fit. As such, if there are ANY questions or ANY uncertainty in modifying your tank,
ASK before you begin doing so. These instructions have not been tested or verified on every GS tank nor any other model of BMW
tank. Therefore variations and differences are inevitable. If you want to change what or how you modify your bike, (for instance
using a check valve instead of a bolt plug) that is in keeping with the intent of this project. You should perform the modifications that
suit you and your circumstances. Use these instructions as a guide, they are not definitive nor inherently complete. Having said all
the above, the following is what we (during our prototype research) did to 2 GS’s, (a stock steel tank 1150 and a stock plastic tank
1100).

It is NOT necessary to remove the tank nor disconnect any of the tanks external electrical or plumbing connections (IF the installation
goes well). Since we are dealing with the FUEL tank it is essential that this installation be performed when the amount of fuel left in
the tank has been reduced, to the reserve level (1 bar or less on the RID). This helps keep the fumes to a minimum, helps keep the fuel
from getting on your hands (the shit they put in gas these days is VERY toxic) AND allows much easier placement of the weighted
ends.

On R11.0 & R11.5 GS tanks, there are 2 vent hoses that run up to the Filler Neck assembly. One is the overfill drain hose and the
other is the replacement air hose. It is necessary to detach both hoses from the Filler Neck (FN). On R11.5’s the hose to the
Replacement Air Assembly (RAA) can stay connected while the RAA is detached from the FN. Note: DO NOT MIX UP THESE 2
HOSES, if you do there is a possibility that a vacuum will be created inside the tank and many bad things could happen (there have
been rumors of the sides of the tank getting sucked in!!!!). On R11.0’s both the RAA and overfill drain hose must be disconnected.

NOTES OF CAUTION
If you elect to drill an additional hole in the FN for access to more of the capacity of the tank BE AWARE that if you fill the tank up
completely, then let the bike sit, as the fuel warms, IT WILL EXPAND and overflow the tank. The SUGGESTED solution IS to
either immediately go for a ride after filling up, or don’t fill the tank completely full. The Fuel will expand because it was stored
underground (where it was much cooler) and will then start to warm up as soon as it winds up in your tank. The expansion air pocket
that was in the tank is now being used for fuel and doesn’t give the gas anywhere to expand into anymore….except thru the filler cap
and to the overflow tube to the charcoal canister (or the ground if you have performed a cannisterectomy). This CAN CAUSE VERY
POOR ENGINE PERFORMANCE until the extra fuel is sucked out of the canister and thru the engine. This can happen at any
outside temperature, for instance even in 30 degree temps, then when you move the bike into your garage where it’s in the 50’s or 60’s
the fuel WILL EXPAND and dump/flow where it must, don’t ask a certain someone how we know!!!…..
This Siphon System once initialized WILL ALWAYS ATTEMPT TO BALANCE THE FUEL BETWEEN THE LEFT AND RIGHT
TANK LOBES….. The one condition where this WILL CAUSE A PROBLEM is when you are very low on fuel and you park the
bike on it’s SIDE STAND. In this case the fuel in the right side will transfer to the left. IF THIS HAPPENS AND YOU START UP
THE FUEL PUMP, IT COULD CAUSE THE PUMP TO FAIL. The fuel pump uses the fuel as an internal lubricant and cooling
agent for it’s internal seals. If the pump is run with no fuel, it can wear out the seals and cause the pump to fail!!!!!!!!!!!!! A
suggested solution is to ALWAYS USE THE CENTER STAND. This ‘solves’ this potential problem and also drains the oil out of
both heads so it doesn't collect in the downside (left) head.... leading to the famous and often rumored, blue smoke of startup, as told
in new and old legends and folklore.

Removal of the Filler Neck (FN) is straight forward. HOWEVER, CAUTION IS ADVISED. On some (all?) R11.0 tanks the RAA
has a pillow shaped plastic air filter that can EASILY come off and fall into the tank!!! On R11.5 tanks the RAA is securely attached
to the FN and is not as susceptible to this problem.

PERFORMING THE INSTALL

You DID drop the fuel level down to reserve didn’t you??? If you don’t do this before you begin, then you WILL have much more
difficulty in getting the weighted ends to find the lowest point in the tank. This is because the fuel will damp the motion and
placement of the weighted ends and make it a real pain to get them set properly.

Loosen the 6) T-25 bolts (note the filler cap mechanism orientation) and lift it off. The FN remains underneath. The FN has the 2
hoses attached. Note the orientation of the FN and CAREFULLY angle the FN so as to clear the tank opening and so that the Return
Air Assembly (RAA) pulls clear (remember, on some R11.0’s, the air filter is only held in place by friction). Note how the 2 vent
hoses are positioned with respect to the entire assembly (there will be a quiz later). COVER THE TANK OPENING WITH A
CLEAN RAG OR OTHER SUITABLE OBJECT (this would also be a good time to clean up any debris in the tank filler well).

On the R1100’s the pillow shaped air filter just levers off the metal tube since it is only held in place by friction.

On R11.5’s the RAA is locked in place by 2 metal rods (from the FN) that attach to the plastic RAA with small plastic pinch clips.
The metal rods can be levered out (with a small screwdriver) of the pinch clips which separates the RAA from the filler neck (DO
NOT LOOSE THE PINCH CLIPS). Use a bungie cord (or other means) to hold the RAA out of the way.

The stock hose clamps are of the latching type (or perhaps the crimp type), they may be unusable once removed. Note: DO NOT mix
the hoses up.

On R11.0’s, I’d suggest marking the return air hose and it’s mating metal tube with ty-raps. Then remove the stock hose clamp and
hose for the RAA and secure the hose from falling into the tank. Next, remove the hose clamp for the overfill hose on the FN then
remove the hose and secure it so it won’t fall into the tank.

On the R11.5, replacing BOTH vent hose clamps is an option, since removing the RAA hose clamp is not required.

Remove the large O-ring from the tank and replace with the new one (notice the replacement O-ring is smaller in diameter so it will fit
in the groove during re-assembly). It is now time to drill a hole in the filler neck for the 3rd (shorter) siphon hose. I recommend
drilling a small pilot hole then using larger bits in succession until you have a 27/64” or 7/16” hole. As an option (since 27/64” or
even 7/16” are not common drill bit sizes, use a 3/8” bit and then use round files to enlarge the hole so that the 3rd siphon hose AND
the hose plug pass thru the hole BUT NOT THE HEX HEAD OF THE BOLT!!! Placement of the hole is arbitrary but I found it best
to drill the hole at the rear of the FN close to, but not at, the bottom. For peace of mind, put the FN underneath the filler cap (just like
it sits while in place on the tank) and observe the available space inside the FN to the bottom of the cap mechanism. This gap is where
the hose (with the hose plug) must fit, so drill the hole to accommodate the available space. Dress the hole so no sharp edges remain.
As an option now is also the time to drill another (much smaller) hole elsewhere in the filler neck to be able to utilize more of the
tank’s capacity (if your of a mind to and if you haven’t done so already). I drilled a 7/32” hole directly opposite the 3/8” hole but
about 1/3 to 1/4 of the way down from the top of the FN.

Now it’s time to insert the Superlative Siphon Sucker System™©®QÐ (S4). If the 2) 18 ¾” hoses & end weights & ‘T’ aren’t pre-
assembled then push 1 end weight onto each hose and then plug the 2 hoses into the ‘T’ connector to form a straight thru path. Plug
the 9” hose onto the remaining ‘T’ connection. Use the 3rd hose clamp on the 9” hose at the ‘T’ end (make sure it is sufficiently
tightened). Rotate the 2 long hoses on the ‘T’ so that the natural bend in each hose follows the inside of the tank and tends to hold the
weighted ends to the inside of the tank. Lower one then the other weighted end into the tank being careful not to interfere with the
fuel pump/pickup/fuel level sensor arm on the right side of the tank. Proper orientation of the S4 should have the hoses running front
to back and rising to meet the ‘T’ connector behind the FN assembly at the center ridge of the tank with the end weights positioned at
the lowest part of the tank. Angle the ‘T’ so that the 3rd hose aims forward and up towards the FN (do not let the 3rd hose drop into the
tank!).
Now we re-assemble the tank. Make sure the new O-ring is in place and is not outside of it’s groove. Next re-attach the RAA to the
FN using the plastic clips (R11.5). Be sure to run it’s hose so it doesn’t interfere with the FN or the soon to be placed 3rd siphon hose
(you did remember the original orientation didn’t you?? :-). Next re-connect the overfill hose (being sure to route it correctly) to the
FN and secure with the new clamp being sure to tighten it sufficiently. Now would also be a good time to check the new RAA hose
clamp for tightness if you replaced it earlier. Then run the 3rd siphon hose thru the hole in the FN and put the hose plug in, this will
keep the hose from falling thru the hole. Route the 3rd siphon hose so that the end can be pulled up and away to clear the top of the
fuel cap opening for initializing S4 siphonation. Lastly (R11.0) place the air filter pillow back on it’s metal tube and make sure it is
securely attached. Next (R11.0 CAREFULLY) re-insert the FN assembly back into the tank and check that the routing for all 3 hoses
is correct and that the 3rd siphon hose can be pulled out and pushed back in with relative ease. Since the 3rd siphon hose hole is large
enough to allow the body of the hose plug (but not the head) to pass thru the hole I’d recommend using a pair of needle nose pliers or
similar to carefully pull the hose plug out thru the hole making sure that the hose doesn’t catch on the lip of the hole in the FN. If any
of these hoses need to be re-routed, now is the time to do it.

Make sure the replacement O-ring is seated properly one last time, and then place the filler cap mechanism on top of the FN and
secure with the 6) T-25 bolts (you did clean the threads before inserting them didn’t you?) Work the cap mechanism down gradually
in a cross or triangle pattern so that you don’t kink or pinch the O-ring. This completes the installation of the Siphon Sucker
System™©®QÐ.

S4 siphonation INITIALIZATION PROCEEDURE

It doesn’t matter which of the two methods described here, you use (or come up with your own). NOTE, Be Careful, Not To Drop
The Hose Plug In The Tank. After you fill up the tank, pull the 3rd siphon hose clear of the tank filler opening (using the previously
mentioned needle nose pliers). Remove the hose plug and then push the 3rd siphon hose back into the tank to allow it to fill with fuel
(try not to get any gas on your fingers). Replace the hose plug and push the hose back down so that all of the hose is inside the tank,
leaving the hex bolt end showing (using the pliers). An alternative approach would be to pull the 3rd siphon hose out of the tank filler
opening BEFORE filling the tank. Once fueling is completed push the hose down into the tank, pull the hose plug out to allow fuel to
fill up the hose and replace the plug. Lastly push the hose all the way down into the FN using the pliers. The method you use to fill
the hose and how you want to handle getting gas on your hands, I’ll leave up to you…(now, there’s an obvious statement if ever there
was one!!! :-).

After Thoughts
The original O-ring will shrink to its original size in time and can be used the next time you want to check on your S4 installation.
And since you’ve just successfully completed this installation you’re now one of the worlds select few experts on the S4 and can
perform this operation on friends and acquaintances BMW’s. Of course any deviations / corrections / changes / and the resultant
range increases should be reported to the proper authorities back here at the world wide headquarters for proper evaluation and due
consideration…

John Jensen Rev 7/29/2, 7/31/3, 7/9/5

johnjen@comcast.net