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Shorts
Prasanta Sarkar Dec 22, 2016
Operation Bulletin
An operation bulletin of a boxer shorts is shown in the following table. In this
OB, operations list, Estimated time, machine requirement, manpower
requirement and hourly production target quantity at 65% efficiency are
shown.
Sample operation bulletin of a Boxer Shorts
Disclaimer: The estimated time (SAM) shown in the above table will vary
according to the product design, method followed and machine and
equipment used in actual production. So be careful while you use the above
estimated time against each operation.
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This explains the various features of men’s underwear or briefs like fabric,
waistband, the elastic, the fly, inseam, gusset, back seam, leg opening, Jock cups
etc.
Types of skirts
Purpose of Clothing
Waistband
Basically, there are 3 types of waistbands on men’s underwear:
Elastic can also be sewn inside the waistline of a boxer. This way, the
boxer looks like an encased waistband, but from the inside, the elastic is
exposed to the body. This style gives a smoother feel against the skin and
eliminates the vertical red imprint marks on the body.
The sewn on the elastic waistband is pretty much the norm now on briefs
and many other men’s underwear styles. It’s comfortable against the body,
leaves very little if any red marks, and provides a great location for the
manufacturer to brand his product. Several manufacturers are also making
their elastic waistbands with microfiber or having the inside brushed. This
gives a softer feel to the body and even greater comfort.
The Fly
Here’s an interesting fact. Fewer than 20% of men actually use their fly.
That’s right; the majority of men simply go up and over. A few even go
down and out. Thus the fly is more of a decoration than a functional
feature. Regardless of whether it’s used or not, a fly will always be a stock
feature on men’s boxers. Some have a centre button or snap on the fly.
This helps to keep the fly closed. Lately, the traditional brief has made
quite a few changes to its flight. More and more, the traditional double –
layered cross – overfly is disappearing. Initially invented by Jockey, this
traditional brief fly tends to flatten out natural contours and gives a man no
definition. A “contour pouch” is quickly replacing the old design. This
pouch actually provides more room, gives the man a more normal
silhouette, and provides comfortable support.
Boxer briefs and trunks will almost always have a brief style fly treatment.
This makes sense when you think about it because both are made in a knit.
There are a few boxer briefs with a traditional boxer fly; however, the fly
has multiple buttons or snaps in order to ensure closure.
Inseam
Recently, a lot of design changes have occurred between a man’s, inseam
legs. For increased comfort and improved fit, there is less and less of the
traditional intersecting of back, front, and leg seams in the crotch area.
Instead, gussets and panels are becoming more popular, and are a whole
lot more comfortable
Gusset
A gusset is a piece of fabric, generally in a diamond, rectangle or triangle
shape, inserted in a garment to allow for more space and greater ease of
movement. In men’s underwear, the gusset appears along and around the
inseams. They not only provide an improved fit but allow the garment to
have fewer seams. The underwear is thus formed – fitting and
comfortable.
Inseams are also becoming shorter. Boxer briefs have been all the rage.
However, when their inseams are too long, the leg tends to creep up and
needs frequent adjusting throughout the day. This symptom is particularly
apparent in men with muscular thighs. Men who enjoy the support of the
boxer brief, but not the creeping are turning to the new underwear style
known as trunks. It’s really a boxer brief with a 1″ – 2″ inseam and looks
like the swimming trunks worn in the ’50s. They are very flattering, don’t
creep, and their lines do not show through pants.
Back Seam
The back seam (or absence of it) is a very important issue to most men.
Too short, and this team will create a wedgy feeling. And, many men just
don’t like sitting on top of a back seat all day. There are a couple of
solutions on the market. Many brands design underwear without a back
seam. They’ll use a gusset design to shape the garment instead. There’s
also a construction technique called the 3 panel back seaming or balloon
back. Basically, there are two seams in the back that run down the centre
back of each leg
Leg Openings
This issue primarily concerns boxers and boxer briefs. Men want freedom
of movement without feeling that their stride is limited, or that their
underwear legs need to be constantly adjusted. Men know that running in
boxers just don’t work – the boxer leg binds them from reaching a running
stride. However, for everyday wear, a boxer leg can be perfectly
comfortable without binding.
For woven boxers, look for boxers with plackets or slits on the side. These
slits are usually 1 1/2″ ? 2″ tall. Men with well – developed thighs should
not only look for packets but also boxers with front pleats. These pleats
give even more leg room. And, of course, don’t overlook the popular knit
boxers. Though they rarely come with side plackets, the fact that they are
knit allows the boxer to stretch. Many wearers of woven boxers have
switched to knit boxers simply because they are more comfortable.
When it comes to leg openings on boxer briefs, men have found there is a
delicate balance. Too tight, and the leg will keep creeping up your leg and
need to be adjusted throughout the day. Too loose, and you’ll feel like you
have less support. If the boxer brief is all cotton with no elastic around the
legs, this boxer brief will be stretched out at the end of the day.
It simply won’t look as nice as it did in the morning. The secret is to find a
boxer brief with a little elastic in the leg hem. This elastic should be just
enough to be form-fitting, but not too tight so that it will creep up as you
stand and sit throughout the day. Boxer briefs with a little elastic will also
look better on you at the end of the day. One should really look at wearing
a brief because the leg opening is not an issue in the brief style.
Jock Cups
Here’s an interesting and rather whimsical fact about jock straps. The size
of the cup gets larger as you go up in waistband size. This, of course,
makes no sense because there is absolutely no correlation between a
man’s waist size and the size of his package. So, why does the industry do
this? Well, I spoke with several jock manufacturers and all confirmed this
sizing to be the industry practice. Why? Because men are unwilling to
assign a cup size to their “package.” Women do it all the time with breast
size, but men simply won’t. So, fit men with an admirable package must
either get a jock with too big a waistband, or one with too small a cup. At
least, now you know how a jock’s cup is sized.
Silhouette
The trend in men’s underwear is that it be attractive and show off a man’s
physique. Men’s underwear should fit the body without binding or bagging,
regardless of a man’s size. Underwear that binds is uncomfortable. But
baggy underwear can be just as bad. Too big, and you have too much
fabric to tuck in and arrange. It can also feel hot and create a lumpy look.
Don’t buy underwear too big assuming it will shrink. Underwear today is cut
to fit and will not shrink wash after wash. So, look at yourself in the mirror
while wearing your underwear. You could go down at least one size and
look better.
Fabric
The fabric is the most important feature in men’s underwear. Feel is
probably the most important criterion for most men – underwear needs to
be soft. This is why most men’s underwear is made of high-quality cotton
with long fibres. The softest highest quality cotton is Pima cotton, Supima
cotton, and Egyptian cotton. Microfiber is another very soft fabric for men’s
underwear.
Microfiber is man-made and is thinner than silk (the thinnest natural fibre
you can find). And, the thinner the fibre, the softer the fabric. Often,
microfibers have wicking properties built into them as well. This means
that the fabric is not only soft, but wicks moisture away from the body, and
dries quickly. Some elastic waistbands on men’s underwear are made from
microfiber. They’re very soft and feel great against a man’s skin.
Fitting Description
Fabric Specifications:
{(E.W + T.L + S.A + H.A) × (Maxim. with wise measurement + S.A) × G.S.M × 2}
= …………………………………………………………………………………….........…
… (A)
10000
Here,
T.L is stands for Total length,
S.A stands for Seam allowance,
E.W stands for Elastic width,
H.A stands for Hem allowance.
Let,
Both seam allowance and hem allowance is 3cm and 2cm respectively.
So,
We get from equation- (A),
= 161.07gms
= 0.161kg
So,
For one piece boxer shorts, fabric is needed 0.161 kg.
Now,
For 20000pcs boxer shorts, fabrics needs,
So,
Fabric needed for 20000 pieces boxer shorts 3221.4 kgs.
{(T.L + E.W + H.A + S.A) × (Maximum with wise measure + S.A) × G.S.M × 2}
= …………………………………………………………………………………...……….
… (1)
10000
Where,
S.A stands for Seam allowance,
T.L is stands for Total length,
H.A stands for Hem allowance,
E.W stands for Elastic width.
N.B: (Maximum width measure is thigh round = (52×2) = 104
Let,
Seam allowance is 2cm,
Hem allowance is 2cm.
So,
From equation-01, we get,
= 113.68gms
= 0.114kg
SL Particulars Costing
No.
01 Fabric cost per pc boxer shorts Rs. 42.88
02 Cost of making cost or CMT cost Rs. 7.00
Main label Rs. 0.60
Wash care label Rs. 0.30
Waist elastic (0.70m) Rs. 2.80
Pouch or Poly bag (3 pack) Rs. 1.50
Hang tag Rs. 0.50
Insert card Rs. 1.50
Trimmings Barcode sticker Rs. 0.60
03 & accessories Hologram sticker Rs.0.75 Rs. 8.55
FOB + Packing (Rs. 1 per 30gms of apparel) 120gms/30gms =
04 Rs. 4 Rs. 4.00
05 Sub total Rs. 62.43
06 Overhead cost (10%) (+) Rs. 6.24
07 Sub total Rs. 68.67
08 Rejection costing (3%) (+) Rs. 2.10
09 Sub total Rs. 70.77
10 Profit percentage (15%) (+) Rs. 10.62
11 Sub total Rs. 81.39
12 Apparel price (FOB) in Rs. Price in Rs. 81.39
13 Apparel price (FOB) in US ($) Price in US ($) = $1.85
14 Apparel price (FOB) in Euro. Price in Euro = E 1.30
Boxer Brief 2
Flat Elastic Ring for Waistband. Flatseam is used for joining panels.
Process & Recommended Models
1. Binding Front Fly
o VF2503-156M-8/EC
2. Joining Front Fly and Body
o VFK2560-152M-02M-8/SC30
o FD-62DRY-12MR
3. Joining Crotch
o FD-62DRY-12MR
4. Hemming Legs
o VES3712-156S8-8/UT-A44
5. Attaching Waistband (Flat Elastic Ring)
o VG2735PR-156M-31-8F/UT-A44/ST2-A
1. Binding Front Fly
Recommended model
VF2503-156M-8/EC
3(2) Needle 5(4) Thread Flat Bed Interlock Stitch Machine for Binding with Active Thread
Control with Solenoid Type Tape Cutter
Features & Benefits
Yamato's signature Active Thread Control supports ideal seam over wide range from soft
and elastic seams for microfibers to tight seams for outer wears.
Yamato "Non-stain" Technology for minimizing the risk of oil stain, the most frequent cause
of defects.
Semi-automatic solenoid type tape cutter to save labor and material.
See configuration
VFK2560-152M-02M-8/SC30
4 Needle 6 Thread Flatbed Flatseamer Both Cut with Active Thread Control
Features & Benefits
Yamato VFK series improves your productivity and quality, as fabric is much more stable on
the flat bed so operators can concentrate on handling.
Yamato's signature Active Thread Control supports ideal seam over wide range from soft
and elastic seams for microfibers to tight seams for outer wears.
Yamato "Non-stain" Technology for minimizing the risk of oil stain, the most frequent cause
of defects.
See configuration
Recommended model
FD-62DRY-12MR
4 Needle 6 Thread Feed-off-the-Arm Single Cut "Magic Dry" Flatseamer, Applicable for
Sewing Light to Medium Weight Fabric
Yamato Magic DRY technology, Combination of Sealed Structure and Hybrid Lubrication,
Minimizes impact on quality and delivery. Also, minimized use of chemicals help you go GREEN.
You can obtain further enhanced quality of your products while minimizing production
downtime.
See series
3. Joining Crotch
Recommended model
FD-62DRY-12MR
4 Needle 6 Thread Feed-off-the-Arm Single Cut "Magic Dry" Flatseamer, Applicable for
Sewing Light to Medium Weight Fabric
Features & Benefits
Yamato Magic DRY technology, Combination of Sealed Structure and Hybrid Lubrication, Minimizes
impact on quality and delivery. Also, minimized use of chemicals help you go GREEN.
You can obtain further enhanced quality of your products while minimizing production downtime.
See series
4. Hemming Legs
Recommended model
VES3712-156S8-8/UT-A44
3(2) Needle 5(4) Thread Small Cylinder Bed Interlock Stitch Machine for Hemming with
Active Thread Control with Variable Top Feeder & Left Hand Fabric Trimmer, with Under
Thread Trimmer
Features & Benefits
Easy material handling and neat finish for small tubular articles can be obtained thanks to
the combination of the 265 mm cylinder with the left hand knife, differential feed mechanism and the
variable top feeder.
The variable top feeder secures feeding performance to avoid roping or puckering, even for
slippely fabric.
Yamato's signature Active Thread Control supports ideal seam over wide range from soft
and elastic seams for microfibers to tight seams for outer wears.
Yamato "Non-stain" Technology for minimizing the risk of oil stain, the most frequent cause
of defects.
See configuration
VG2735PR-156M-31-8F/UT-A44/ST2-A
3(2) Needle 5(4) Thread Cylinder Bed Interlock Stitch Machine for Attaching Elastic Band,
with Right Hand Fabric Trimmer & Stepping Motor Driven Elastic Metering Device & Puller
with Active Thread Control (PR = Flat Rubber Rollers), with Under Thread Trimmer & Top
Cover Thread Trimmer
Features & Benefits
Equipped with right hand fabric trimmer to trim the edge of body fabric for neat finish.
Equipped with the Puller mechanism with Flat Rubber Rollers to maintain appropriate
tensions avoiding tracks of the puller even on the delicate fabrics.
Yamato's signature Active Thread Control supports ideal seam over wide range from soft
and elastic seams for microfibers to tight seams for outer wears.
Yamato "Non-stain" Technology for minimizing the risk of oil stain, the most frequent cause
of defects.
See configuration
Boxer Brief 1
Series Top
Contact us
Boxer Brief 1
Knitted Elastic Ring for Waistband. Overlock + Interlock Coverseam is used for joining
panels
Process & Recommended Models
1. Binding Front Fly
o VF2503-156M-8/EC
2. Joining Front Fly and Body
o AZ8020SD-Y5DF-8/K2/SC18
3. Covering the Joint of Front Fly and Body
o VT2513-156M-34K/UT-A34/ST2-A/Y
4. Binding Legs
o VF2503-156M-8/EC
5. Joining Crotch
o AZ8020SD-Y5DF-8/K2/SC18
6. Covering Crotch
o VG2790-156M-K4N-8F/UTQ-A34/ST2-A/Y
o VT2513-156M-34K/UT-A34/ST2-A/Y
7. Attaching Waistband (Knitted Elastic Ring)
o VG2742PR-156M-8F/UT-A34/ST2-A/AS4
VF2503-156M-8/EC
3(2) Needle 5(4) Thread Flat Bed Interlock Stitch Machine for Binding with Active Thread
Control with Solenoid Type Tape Cutter
See configuration
AZ8020SD-Y5DF-8/K2/SC18
2 Needle 4 Thread "Speed & Dry" Overlock Machine for General Seaming with Automatic
Thread Chain Cutter (Vertical Type) and Self Cleaning Device
See configuration
Recommended model
VT2513-156M-34K/UT-A34/ST2-A/Y
3(2) Needle 5(4) Thread Feed-up-the-arm Interlock Stitch Machine for Covering, with Under
Thread Trimmer & Top Cover Thread Trimmer
See configuration
4. Binding Legs
Recommended model
VF2503-156M-8/EC
3(2) Needle 5(4) Thread Flat Bed Interlock Stitch Machine for Binding with Active Thread
Control with Solenoid Type Tape Cutter
See configuration
5. Joining Crotch
Recommended model
AZ8020SD-Y5DF-8/K2/SC18
2 Needle 4 Thread "Speed & Dry" Overlock Machine for General Seaming with Automatic
Thread Chain Cutter (Vertical Type) and Self Cleaning Device
See configuration
6. Covering Crotch
Recommended model
VG2790-156M-K4N-8F/UTQ-A34/ST2-A/Y
3(2) Needle 5(4) Thread Streamline Cylinder Bed Interlock Stitch Machine for Covering with
Active Thread Control, with Automatic Under Thread Trimmer with Anti-Unraveling Device &
Top Cover Thread Trimmer
See configuration
Recommended model
VT2513-156M-34K/UT-A34/ST2-A/Y
3(2) Needle 5(4) Thread Feed-up-the-arm Interlock Stitch Machine for Covering, with Under
Thread Trimmer & Top Cover Thread Trimmer
See configuration
VG2742PR-156M-8F/UT-A34/ST2-A/AS4
3(2) Needle 5(4) Thread Cylinder Bed Interlock Stitch Machine for Attaching Knitted Elastic
Band with puller (PR = Flat Rubber Rollers), with Under Thread Trimmer, Top Cover Thread
Trimmer & Air-operated Folder Slider
See configuration