Chapter 2

Building Your Signal Monitor

The second step in your logical diagnostic procedure is to check the signals from the computer to the
transmission. To perform this check, you'll need a shift signal monitor, designed to display the signals, as they
occur.

But if all you're looking to do is to check the shift commands from the computer system, all you really need is a
simple signal monitor that you can build yourself, with a few inexpensive parts from your local electronics
store.

This monitor is easy to connect, easy to read, and only draws 0.025 amps, so it won't harm delicate computer
circuits.

The Parts You'll Need

Here's a list of the parts you'll need to build your signal monitor, with Radio Shack® part numbers to make
purchasing those parts easier.

Quantity Description Radio Shack® P/N

3 Jumbo LEDs 276-086

2 470 ohm Resistor (2/Pack) 271-019

1 Alligator Clips (10/Pack) 270-378

1 25,´ 6-Conductor Phone Cord 279-422

1 Radar Detector Mount Plate 270-034

1 Shrink Tubing 278-1627

1 Small Wire Tie Strap Solder  

The Tools You'll Need

And here's a list of the tools you'll need:

o Soldering Iron
o Wire Cutter/Stripper
o Drill
o 25/64" and 3/16" Drill Bits

10 Easy Steps
Now just follow these 10 easy steps to build your signal monitor. Use the graphic on the next page to help
identify each component and its location.

Step 1: Drill three 25/64" holes in the mount plate for the LEDs. Drill two 3/16" holes for the tie strap.

Step 2: Trim the long leg (+) of the LEDs to 1/2" and solder one resistor to each of the cut legs.

Step 3: Cut off the modular end from the phone cord, and strip the gray jacket back 2" from the end of the wire.
Then strip the colored insulation back about 3/8" from the end of the wires.

Step 4: Cut 1/16" shrink tubing into 1" pieces, and slide one over the end of each wire.

Step 5: Snap the LEDs into the holes you drilled, and solder the wires to the LEDs and resistors, as shown in
the graphic. After the solder cools, slide the shrink tubing over the soldered wires, and apply heat to shrink the
tubing into place.

Step 6: Cut the phone cord to about 12."

Step 7: Strip the gray insulation back about 2" from the end of the phone cord. Slide the red, green and yellow
wires into one length of 1/8" shrink tubing; slide the blue, black and white wires into a second length 1/8"
shrink tubing. Heat the shrink tubing to hold the wires in place.

Step 8: Cut two 1/4" pieces of 1/4" shrink tubing, and place one on one of the yellow alligator clip boots, and
the other on one of the green alligator clip boots. You'll use these bands to identify the clips to connect when
checking a transmission.

Step 9: Strip the colored ends of the individual wires about 3/8." Slide the boots over the appropriate wires, as
shown in the graphic, and solder the alligator clips onto the wire ends. Wait till the solder cools before sliding
the boots over the clips.

Step 10: Paint the back of the LEDs black, to prevent sunlight from shining through.

The directions in this book for connecting your shift signal monitor are based on the wire and boot
colors indicated in this drawing. Any deviation from these colors could affect your monitor's effectiveness and
the results of your tests.
Two Types of Wiring
Now that you've finished building your signal monitor, you're probably anxious to try it out. But before you
start connecting it to a transmission harness, there's an important point to consider: There are two different
methods for connecting your signal monitor, depending on the unit you're working on.

That's because some systems supply power to energize the shift solenoids, and other supply ground. And, while
your signal monitor works equally well on both systems, there's a difference in how you have to connect it to
the harness.

The first system is where the computer supplies power to energize the solenoids. This system only requires the
manufacturer to use one wire for each solenoid. The solenoids receive ground through the transmission case.

For these units, you'll connect the clips with the red, yellow and green boots to the solenoid wires.
You have to connect the other three clips to a good ground.
The other type of system is where the solenoids receive power from an external source, and the computer
supplies ground to energize the solenoids.

Signal Monitor Wire and Terminal Identification

#1 = Red Boot
#2 = Yellow Boot
#3 = Green Boot
#4 = Black Boot
#5 = Yellow Boot w/Black Band
#6 = Green Boot w/Black Band

For these units, you'll connect the clips with the red, yellow and green boots to a 12-volt power source; the other
three clips connect to the individual solenoid wires.

If the computer supplies ground to energize the solenoid,

you'll connect the clips with the red, yellow and green boots to a good ground.

Comparing Your Results

Of course, that's a lot to remember, and a mistake connecting your signal monitor could easily leave you with
completely useless results. That's why we've included a series of connection graphics in the section dedicated to
each type of transmission. Just follow the directions on the graphic for connecting your signal monitor.

Once you have your signal monitor connected, route the wire through the back of the hood, and into the
passenger compartment. Then close the hood, and go for a drive. The LEDs on your signal monitor should
begin to light, to indicate the signals from the computer.

But if the signals differ from those on the chart, the computer signals aren't correct; look for a computer system
problem.

Not Just for Shift Signals

The goal of your signal monitor was to enable you to examine the signals the computer develops to shift the
transmission. And it does a great job at providing those signals.

But that's not all it does. You can use your signal monitor to examine any electrical signal the computer
develops to control transmission operation. Another example of one of those signals is the pulsed signal the
computer uses to control mainline pressure on a transmission with an electronic pressure control (EPC)
solenoid.

These systems vary the ratio of on-time to off-time to control line pressure: The longer the solenoid is on, the
lower pressure should be. So you can see whether the computer is controlling line pressure properly by looking
for a change in the EPC signal as you vary the load on the engine.
Just connect the wires from one of the LEDs on your signal monitor to the EPC terminals. Your book identifies
these terminals, and shows which is positive and which is negative.

You can even use your signal monitor to check the signals to the EPC solenoid.

Then drive the car. The LED should be dimmer than when checking a shift solenoid, because the signal is
pulsing. The more load you put on the vehicle, the dimmer the LED should become. At full throttle, the LED
should go out.

Now that you have your signal monitor built, and you're familiar with how to use it, you're ready to begin your
diagnoses. The rest of this book provides the information you need to diagnose most domestic transmissions,
using the skills you've learned in this program.