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SURVEY OF APPAREL DESIGN

TERM PROJECT

DESIGNER PROFILE: c c




FACULTY: Ms. Bhavna K. Verma

SUBMITTED BY:
PARUL SAGAR
D/BFT-AP/09/19
F.P.TECH

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Alexander McQueen was born Lee McQueen,
on March 17th 1969. He is one of the most
influential British designers of our time. He has
mastered 6 methods of pattern cutting from
the melodramatic 16th Century to the brutally
sharp tailoring which has become a McQueen
signature.

Alexander McQueen shows are known for their


emotional power and raw energy, as well as the
romantic but determinedly contemporary
nature of the collections. Integral to the
McQueen culture is the juxtaposition between
contrasting elements: fragility and strength,
tradition and modernity, fluidity and severit y.
An openly emotional and even passionate viewpoint is realised with a
profound respect and influence for the arts and crafts tradition. Alexander's
collections combine an in-depth working knowledge of bespoke British
tailoring, the fine workmanship of the French Haute Couture atelier and the
impeccable finish of Italian manufacturing.

In less than 10 years McQueen became one of the most respected fashion
designers in the world. In October 1996 he was appointed Chief Designer at
the French Haute Couture House Givenchy where he worked until March of
2001.

In December 2000, 51% of Alexander McQueen was acquired by the Gucci


Group, where he remained Creative Director. Collections include womens
ready-to-wear, mens ready-to-wear, accessories, eyewear and fragrance
(Kingdom 2003 and MyQueen 2005). Expansion fol lowed and included the
opening of flagship stores in New York, London, Milan, Las Vegas and Los
Angeles.

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Alexander McQueen shows are known for their emotional power and raw
energy, as well as the romantic but determinedly contemporary nature of the
collections. Integral to the McQueen culture is the juxtaposition between
contrasting elements: fragility and strength, tradition and modernity, fluidity
and severity. An openly emotional and even passionate viewpoint is realised
with a profound respect and influence for the arts and crafts tradition.
Alexander's collections combine an in-depth working knowledge of bespoke
British tailoring, the fine workmanship of the French Haute Couture atelier and
the impeccable finish of Italian manufacturing.

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Alexander McQueen left school at the age of 16 with a single O -Level and
worked for a time clearing glasses in his uncle͛s pub. He completed his A -Level
in Art at night-school at   before being offered
an apprenticeship at the revered c !  .
Here he learnt the intricacies of cutting jackets before moving up the street to
"!#$ to apply and develop these skills to trousers. It was here
that that the anti-establishment McQueen legend began, when he famously
scrawled obscenities in tailor͛s chalk in the inner -lining of a jacket destined for
the heir to the throne, Prince Charles.

He moved to the theatrical costumiers c!% to work on


productions for big musical shows like Les Miserables, while continuing to
master the skills of pattern-cutting ʹ including techniques from earlier
centuries that are evident in his work today. He then went to work for  &
'  ()*, then backed by +)+, before moving
to Milan to work with his hero, ". This was in the late 1980s when
Gigli was still enjoying the media hyperbole that had propelled him into the
limelight. McQueen was undoubtedly influenced by the power of the press
machine he witnessed in Milan, and convinced of its contribution to a
designer͛s success.

In 1990, when Gigli separated from his friends and business partners Donato
Maiano and Carla Sozzani, McQueen returned to London where he sought

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work teaching pattern-cutting at   ,c!
. Instead of a job, he was offered a place on the MA design course, his
drive and impressive curriculum vitae making up for his lack of formal
qualifications. With a loan from his Aunt Renée he completed his MA in 1992
and sold his graduate collection to the influential stylist -'% who
went on to become his muse, patron and unofficial public relations agent.

McQueen immediately established his own label with a small collection


presented at the %*' "(. $ . It was here that
his signature /'*0 ʹ jeans cut just above the pubic bone to reveal the
cleft of the buttocks behind ʹ made their first appearance.

"1

In October 1996, at the age of 27 and having produced only eight collections,
McQueen was appointed && ,"1 , replacing
John Galliano, who went to sister label Christian Dior. Givenchy brought the
backing of luxury conglomerate Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy and enabled
McQueen to continue developing his own label. A turbulent four -and-a-half
years at Givenchy began with disappointing reviews of his first Haute Couture
collection in 1997. Fond journalists, mostly French, demanded that McQueen͛s
uncompromising avant-garde designs be softened to meet for the house
whose most famous muse was Audrey Hepburn.

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In 2001 McQueen again made the headlines with the controversial move of
selling a 23  of his label to the rival Gucci Group. Their financial
backing and insightful decision to encourage rather than suppress McQueen͛s
talents made the label an international brand.

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The following awards have recognized


Alexander McQueen͛s achievement in fashion:

U? British Designer of the year 1996, 1997,


2001, and 2003
U? International Designer of the Year by The
Council of Fashion Designer's of America (CFDA)
in 2003
U? A Most Excellent Commander of The
British Empire͛ (CBE) by her Majesty the Queen in 2003
U? GQ Menswear Designer of the Year in 2007

December 2000 saw a new partnership for McQueen, with the Gucci Group
acquiring 51% of his company and McQueen serving as Creative Director. Plans
for expansion included the opening of stores in London, Milan and New York,
and the launch of his perfumes (  and, most recently,1 *. In
2005 McQueen collaborated with * to create a special line of trainers for
the shoe brand. In 2006 he launched  , a younger, more renegade lower
priced line for men and women.

McQueen became the first designer to participate in c 7 promotion of


cosmetic releases created by fashion designers. The collection, McQueen, was
released on 11 October 2007 and reflected the looks used on the
Autumn/Winter McQueen catwalk. The inspiration for the collection was the
Elizabeth Taylor movie Cleopatra, and thus the models sported intense blue,
green, and teal eyes with strong black liner extended Egyptian -style. McQueen
handpicked the makeup.

By the end of 2007, Alexander McQueen had boutiques in London, New York,
Los Angeles, Milan and Las Vegas. '1, including Nicole Kidman,
Penélope Cruz, Sarah Jessica Parker and Rihanna, have frequently been
spotted wearing Alexander McQueen clothing to events. Bjork and Lady Gaga
have often incorporated Alexander McQueen pieces in their music videos.

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 -"8 6 
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN (1969 - 2010) burst onto the fashion stage in 1992,
courting controversy as headlines hailed him as the new enfant terrible.
Though contentious and frequently misunderstood, he established the fashion
label that is now internationally acclaimed and coveted without compromising
his approach.
From the start of his career McQueen has both shocked and delighted his
audience with raw presentations often depicting bleak history and anarchic
politics. These shock tactics began in dimly -lit warehouses away from the staid
environment of the London Fashion Week tent s. His autumn/winter 1995
catwalk show in particular captured the headlines. Entitled  , the
collection featured dishevelled and battered-looking models in torn clothing. It
was McQueen͛s comment on the rape of the Highlands at the hands of the
British; interpreted by others as a perverse and misogynistic celebration of the
sexual violation of women. His spring/summer 1997 collection,  *,
featured a black model whose movements were restrained by a metal cage
attached to her limbs, hit the headlines again. Inspired by the German puppet -
master Hans Bellmer, the rusty contraption was designed to evoke a
marionette; inevitably, again, some of the press saw bondage, slavery and the
subordination of women.
McQueen͛s flair for showmanship has led him to be celebrated as much for
outrageous theatricality as for the unique combination of aggressive tailoring
and lyrical romanticism in his clothes. As the stature of the McQueen name
grew, so did the twice-yearly spectacle. His weird and whimsical ca twalk
narratives have included models encircled in flames, drenched in rainstorms or
spun like music-box dolls on revolving circles in the floor. The shows are
inspired by *, by Stanley Kubrick, Pier Paolo Pasolini and Alfred
Hitchock, or by the # of Joel-Peter Witkin. It is Witkin͛s work
which inspired McQueen͛s spring/summer 2001 show. Models staggered
around, trapped in a mirrored box that obscured their view of the audience.
Their bandaged heads and confused expressions evoked dis ease both physical
and psychological. The spectacle ended as the walls of the glass box shattered
to the floor to reveal an obese model wearing nothing but a gas mask,
surrounded by hundreds of moths.

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Favouring an aggressive, rebellious approach to design,


one of his first defining collections came in 1995 ʹ
instantly shooting him to the top of all 'one to watch' lists.
The provocative Highland Rape collection featured a head -
turning fusion of tattered dresses, bloodstained models
and typically-daring sheer pieces - all inspired by his
Scottish ancestry, and thrown together with remnants
from fabric shops.

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Just as women were embracing hipster trousers in 1995,


the ever boundary-pushing McQueen urged them to go
one-step further. Enter, the Bumsters. Lower than should
be acceptable, the cheek -flashing waistline was in the
style of a builder͛s slouchy jeans ʹ but infinitely more
stylish, naturally. An iconic McQueen look if ever there
was one.

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As everyone waited to see how he'd follow up the much -


talked about Highland Rape collection, McQueen
ensured he didn't disappoint, with an equally mould -
breaking show in 1996. To the surprise of his catwalk

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audience, his models splashed down a run way covered in water.

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In 1996 Alexander McQueen became the youngest


designer in history to win a British Designer of the Year
Award, and would collect the title a further three times
by 2003.

"1

McQueen was named the successor to John Galliano as


the head designer at Givenchy in 1996. He quickly earned
the title 'L'enfant terrible' by promptly dismissing the
label͛s founder, Hubert de Givenchy, as 'irrelevant'.
Despite initial collections gaining unfavourable revie ws,
McQueen would stay at the design house until 2001,
when he left claiming the fashion house was 'constraining
his creativity'.

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He caused controversy in autumn 1998 with a show


which included double amputee model Aimee Mullins
striding down the catwalk on intricately carved wooden
legs. His use of the unconventional model was a feature
that stayed with him throughout his career, part of his
quest to constantly provoke thought and push
boundaries.

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1  *

As if his epic catwalk spectaculars couldn't get any more


unpredictable, McQueen had jaws hitting the floor once
again during his Spring/Summer 1999 show. Model
Shalom Harlow walked the runway at the beginning of
the show in a plain white strapless gown - but for the
finale was spray-painted live on stage, with machines
taken from a car manufacturing plant.

  

The runway was transformed into a winter wonderland


for Autumn/Winter 1999, as the models walked the
catwalk surrounded by a magical blizzard of perspex
snow.

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In 2003, Alexander McQueen was granted an honour


to cement him forever in the British history books, as
Queen Elizabeth presented the designer with a CBE
for his contribution to the fashion industry.

 +*(

Alexander McQueen was very friendly with Kate Moss: the


two had had a longstanding working relationship but got on
well together on a personal level too. McQueen
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demonstrated his support for Moss after a cocaine scandal, which hit British
tabloids in 2005. Kate lost contracts with some big designer names, but
Alexander McQueen strode out at the end of his
fashion show wearing a T-shirt with the legend 'We
love you Kate' emblazoned across the front.

(

Kate Moss was again the star of McQueen's


Autumn/Winter 2006 show - but she wasn't there in
person. The supermodel appeared as a huge ghostly
hologram floating over the catwalk, much to the
amazement of the audience.

#* 

One of his more wearable creations, McQueen's skull-


print scarves gained a cult following in 2006, being
seen on everyone from Nicole Richie, to Naomi
Campbell and Lindsay Lohan.

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Following the death of Isabella Blow in May 2007, McQueen


made his Spring/Summer 2008 collection a tribute to his
friend and mentor. The invites to the show were poster -size
illustrations depicting Isabella in a McQueen dress and Philip
Treacy head piece, in a horse-drawn carriage ascending to
heaven. If his audience were expecting a sombre, dark
collection, they were, of course, sadly mistaken. A
celebration of life, the catwalk was awash with bright colours
and followed a bird theme, featuring highlights from throughout his career.

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# *

His designs were always interesting and experimental,


and he played with textures and fabrics to create
stunning sillhouettes. McQueen was also known for his
pioneering work with prints, taking inspiration from the
insect world for his Spring/Summer 2009 collection.

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It's possibly an understatement to say that his shows were


never dull, and fashion journalists, stylists and magazine
editors alike crammed in to get a good look at the designs
they knew they'd be talking about in the coming months.

**&,

Many of the striking creations in his Autumn/Winter 2009


show made it seem more like a couture collection than a
ready-to-wear.

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"

His most recent Spring/Summer 2010 collection was entitled Plato's Atlantis,
and inspired by his vision of a f uture ecological meltdown. Always wanting to
be the very first to experiment with the newest technologies and ideas, the
show was streamed live across the internet in a real pioneering fashion
moment.

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Celebrities flocked to wear McQueen's


designs, with A-list fans ranging from Cate
Blanchett to Rihanna, Anna Paquin, Cameron Diaz
and Kate Bosworth ʹ to name merely a few.
Many of these star muses also became friends
of the designer, including Sarah Jessica Parker,
who he accompanied to the Costume
Institute Gala back in 2006. The suitably
coordinating pair were both clad naturally in
McQueen, with SJP rocking a tartan-bedecked
tulle prom dress.

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The designer used his extraordinary talents to create


brilliant pieces that made an impact on everyone who saw
them. Poster girl for the larger lady, Beth Ditto acted as
something of a muse for McQueen throughout 2008.

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Most recently, the late designer struck up a notable partnership with Lady
Gaga, one of the few people who woul d actually dare to wear some of his most
dramatic designs. For his part, McQueen had the models in his S/S 2010
collection storming down the runway to the sound of La Ga. In return, she
showcased several pieces from the collection in her Bad Romance video ʹ
including those formidable 12-inch Armadillo shoes.

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The Alexander McQueen collection was launched in April 2004. The brand,
belonging to the Gucci Group, aims to encompass creativity and innovation,
even through the use of exclusive colours and innovative materials such as
wood and lace.

It mainly targets women aged between 25 and 45, and is placed in the luxury
segment. Alexander McQueen eyewear is sold all over the world, chiefly in
Europe and Asia. The ͚Alexander McQueen͛ brand is distributed in 48 countries
worldwide and notably in its three flagship s tores in London, New York and
Milan.

 

Alexander McQueen announced plans to launch a denim-based ready-to-wear


line under a new label, 'McQ ʹ Alexander McQueen ' on November 04, 2005.
The project materialized worldwide for the Autumn-Winter 2006 season.

The 'McQ' collections included both men's and women's ready-to-wear and
accessories and were exclusively designed by Alexander M cQueen. The new
collections allowed Alexander McQueen's internationally acclaimed design
ethos to reach a much wider audience whilst complementing the brand͛s
existing highly successful main line collections of luxury ready -to-wear and
accessories.

Alexander McQueen commented: " "   # #


$ $ $ #    
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     $      $  

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The metaphoric concept of ͚Power͛ is the DNA of the new collection. Physical
and mental power exist at the very core of sport and the collection strives to
interpret and convey ͚Power͛ in innovative and unexpected ways. With ͚Power͛
as a constant reference, each season͛s collection will also have a specific
seasonal theme related to sport. The Spring/Summer 20010 seasonal theme is
͚Martial Arts͛ Ͷ a sport with power at its essence, referenced in style, color
and material applications.

Unexpected and unique, Alexander McQueen PUMA defines a new provocative


horizon in Sport Fashion. Founded on the union of tradition and technology,
the collection juxtaposes influences delivering a visually contemporary line
that is conceptually sophisticated, powerful and intricately crafted.

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Shaun Leane͛s continuing work for Alexander McQueen has demanded bigger
and more elaborate jewellery creations, creating objects of imposing beauty
which push the boundaries of possibility, defying the traditional expectations
of modern jewellery. Shaun Leane has devel oped designs which fuse flesh and
moulded metal into one harmonious entity.

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 c?  *,
Target partnered with designer Alexander McQueen for his McQ line to launch
 ', a unique program that features well-
established designers who draw inspiration from a collaborative partner, muse
or creative element. The exclusive McQ Alexander McQueen for Target
collection draws inspiration from British rock band The Duke Spirit, and was
launched on Target.com and at select Target stores nationwide on March 4,
2009. The collection was available through April 14, 2009.
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$$  *+, $ #"  #   *
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Known for its potent mix of rebel edge, creativity and technical mastery, McQ
Alexander McQueen for Target collection was inspired by youth subcultures,
music, rebellion and style revolution. These qualities are epitomized by Liela
Moss, lead singer of The Duke Spirit. Moss serves as McQ͛s muse for a
collection that exudes a rock ͚n͛ roll-punk vibe and hip-brit accents.
An exclusive ͞The Duke Spirit CDù was sold alongside the McQ Alexander
McQueen for Target collection. The spe cial compilation CD was also sold in the
Entertainment area at all Target stores, as well as on Target.com beginning
February 24, 2009.
The McQ Alexander McQueen for Target collection, the first Designer
Collaboration, celebrates the fusion of fashion and music at affordable prices
and makes designer fashion available to women everywhere.








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The Samsonite Black Label by Alexander McQueen turned out to be an


awesomely ergonomic collection, which features everything right from natural
curves and shapes down to the vibrant revolutionary luggage designs.
Samsonite has always made profitable deals in past and picking Alexander
McQueen ʹ probably the most influential fashion designer in the world, was
never going to be a questionable decision by any means.

While Samsonite has a concrete rapport of over 97 years, the McQueen is


known for its juxtaposition of latest technology with tradition, romantic ideas,
natural beauty, edgy tailoring, artistic creations and the best of everything
featuring futuristic aesthetic designs.

This lovely collection features hardside pieces of faux cro codile, a leather travel
wallet, overnight bag, cosmetic pouch, computer bag, a crocodile print
passport holder, several other products in the range along with a unique TSA
lock.

Looking at one of the hot options in the


range, AI2 Upright is a trendy bag that
comes with U-zip pocket, zipped
protective cover as well as interior cross
straps. It also features leather carry
handles, carry-on size and is currently
available in vivid colours from black
bone.

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Alexander McQueen continues his reign as the most innovative designer in
fashion currently with his Spring/Summer 2010 collection. Teaming up with
Lady Gaga, who premiered her new single "Bad Romance" at the show, and
broadcasting his show live on the web, McQueen continues to redefine the
fashion show.

The clothes themselves are, as usual, thought-provoking and exquisite.


 &'$  @* ,
5 According to Sarah Mower of style.com, the official press release
for the collection said that it was "an apocalyptic forecast of the future
ecological meltdown of the world: Humankind is made up of creatures that
evolved from the sea, and we may be heading back to an underwater future as
the ice cap dissolves."

McQueen certainly captures that in short dresses that capture marine life as
well as patterns that make the models look as if their coloring is sending a
warning -- albeit a stunning one -- much as many creatures do in the wild. The
shapes range from voluminous and bubbly to stiffly structured li ke coral or
fins; it isn't anything out of the ordinary for "edgy" fashion but combined with
the prints and other details it makes for mindblowing apparel.

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The shoes are nearly as insane as Nina Ricci's Fall 2009 footwear, intricately
made (and seemingly impossible to wear practically). The designs reinforce the
reptilian and aquatic nature of the show, while adding typical McQueen over -
the-top flair.

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The other details made the show as fantastical and awe -inspiringly beauitful as
it was. The hair had almost a galatic feel, imitating fins and reptilian bone
structure, and evidences McQueen's relationship with Lady Gaga, who always
styles her hair in the most eccentric ways. The craftsmanship is gorgeous, per
usual, and the dresses truly do look as if they have scales or other aquatic
enhancements while still remaining feminine.

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Alexander McQueen stole the


other Paris designers͛ thunder on
Tuesday with a darkly beautiful
pret-a-porter collection that
couldn͛t help reminding the
viewer of just how grand fashion
can be.

That the eccentric Englishman


managed to outshine other Paris
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designers was a feat considering Tuesday included displays by heavy -hitters
Chanel and Valentino Ͷ which both sent out strong collections that remained
true to their heritage.

Chanel delivered dark tweed suits dressed up with


removable frills, while Valentino͛s new design duo
served up impeccable 1960s glamour.

Another eccentric, France͛s Jean-Charles de


Castelbajac, also delivered a wildly inventive
collection, his featuring the Muppets Ͷ with Fozzie
Bear-emblazoned suits and a rock star shag coat
made from stuffed Kermit the Frogs.

But none could rival McQueen, whose darkly


ingenious and bizarrely sublime show garnered
cheers, hoops and whistles of approval from the
normally tepid fashion crowd.

Paris͛s winter 2010 ready-to-wear shows continue Wednesday with displays by


Kenzo, Hermes, John Galliano and red-carpet
favorite Elie Saab.

A dress made entirely from slick black feathers, with


oversized bouffant sleeves sculpted to suggest a
swan hurtling into flight. A cocktail dress with a bust
made of a jumble of leather straps and a full skirt of
tight looping ruffles with a garbage-bag black sheen.

These were pieces that cried out to be worn Ͷ with


extravagance and wild abandon Ͷ but probably
belonged more in a museum than in a closet. It was
fashion as art Ͷ wearable art to be lusted after.

Working with a palette of graphic black, red and white, the McQueen took
tactful staples like the skirt suit and the strapless cocktail dress and pushed
them beyond the boundaries of politeness.

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He nipped the New Look suit͛s wasp-waist even further, inflated its square
shoulders and fluffed up the crinoline skirts. He padded the cascading train of a
strapless evening gown until its skirts turned into a sort of bean bag that the
model struggled to shuffle around the runway.

The black and white houndstooth checks that opened the show gave way to a
red and black M.C. Escher-inspired print of ducks in flight that morph into
houndstooth. McQueen also heaped on metalwork -studded hardware and
feathers.

Hats made from open umbrellas, lampshades or a sculpture of found objects


wrapped in clear plastic film topped off the looks.

Models, their faces covered in white and their mouths an oversized smear of
red lipstick, picked their way around a huge pile of stylized rubbish in the
middle of the catwalk and stopping in front of the photographers, leered.

It was beauty transformed into ugliness and then back into beauty again.

c%c" 

c?  * ' are well known all over the world for its
exquisite designs and wide range of choices. Each bag is meticul ously
handcrafted keeping the taste of fashion conscious women in mind. Alexander
McQueen Handbags are available in a wide range of colors and designs which
have been appreciated and accepted by many.

They give a sense of individuality and fashion to the user. Along with handbags,
the company also manufactures an elite line up of footwear products. Infusing
knowledge of British tailoring, Alexander McQueen Handbags are made by the
best experts in the industry who have significant years of experience in th eir
fields of specialization. Every Alexander McQueen Handbag displays the
magnificent craftsmanship that goes beyond its manufacture.

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%-% -6"c +
%66( 

Who͛s Who In Fashion

Century Of The Designers, Charlotte Seeling

% - 

http://www.emoda.com/blog/?s=alexander+mc+queen

http://pressroom.target.com/pr/news/fashion/collaborations/mcq-for-target.aspx

http://www.myluxury.info/samsonite-black-label-mcqueen/

http://www.butterboom.com/2010/02/26/lee-alexander-mcqueens-true-fashion-visionary/

http://www.fragrancex.com/products/_bid_Alexander--Mcqueen-am-cid_perfume-am-
lid_A__brand_history.html

http://designmuseum.org/design/alexander-mcqueen

www.alexandermcqueen.com/

www.net-a-porter.com/Shop/Designers/Alexander_McQueen

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2010RTW-AMCQUEEN

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1250249/Alexander-McQueen-commits-suicide.html

http://alexandermcqueen.puma.com/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_McQueen

http://www.glbtq.com/arts/mcqueen_a.html

http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/fashion/ideas/25988/27/alexander-mcqueen-a-retrospective.html

http://brandnoise.typepad.com/brand_noise/2006/01/mcq_inspired_by.html

http://news.scotsman.com/ViewArticle.aspx?articleid=2743721

http://www.safilo.com/en/2-alexander-mcqueen.php

http://www.popwired.com/2010/02/fashion-designer-alexander-mcqueen-died/

http://www.independent.co.uk/news/barbie-girl-steps-out-in-style-1201101.html

http://www.ranker.com/list/alexander-mcqueen_s-legacy-in-fashion-or-spring-2010-and-
beyond/fashionpassion
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http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/fashion_motion/mcqueen_leane/index.html

http://www.torontosun.com/life/fashion/2010/02/11/12839146.html

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2006RTW-AMCQUEEN/

http://www.millionlooks.com/outfits/pfw-alexander-mcqueen-spring-summer-2010/

http://www.fashionisavampire.com/2009/10/alexander-mcqueen-springsummer-2010.html

http://www.blackbookmag.com/article/mcqueen-beth-ditto-the-gossip-frontwomans-alexander-
mcqueen-shoot-and-sasst/7319

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