Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
TERM PROJECT
SUBMITTED BY:
PARUL SAGAR
D/BFT-AP/09/19
F.P.TECH
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Alexander McQueen was born Lee McQueen,
on March 17th 1969. He is one of the most
influential British designers of our time. He has
mastered 6 methods of pattern cutting from
the melodramatic 16th Century to the brutally
sharp tailoring which has become a McQueen
signature.
In less than 10 years McQueen became one of the most respected fashion
designers in the world. In October 1996 he was appointed Chief Designer at
the French Haute Couture House Givenchy where he worked until March of
2001.
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Alexander McQueen shows are known for their emotional power and raw
energy, as well as the romantic but determinedly contemporary nature of the
collections. Integral to the McQueen culture is the juxtaposition between
contrasting elements: fragility and strength, tradition and modernity, fluidity
and severity. An openly emotional and even passionate viewpoint is realised
with a profound respect and influence for the arts and crafts tradition.
Alexander's collections combine an in-depth working knowledge of bespoke
British tailoring, the fine workmanship of the French Haute Couture atelier and
the impeccable finish of Italian manufacturing.
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Alexander McQueen left school at the age of 16 with a single O -Level and
worked for a time clearing glasses in his uncle͛s pub. He completed his A -Level
in Art at night-school at before being offered
an apprenticeship at the revered c ! .
Here he learnt the intricacies of cutting jackets before moving up the street to
"!#$ to apply and develop these skills to trousers. It was here
that that the anti-establishment McQueen legend began, when he famously
scrawled obscenities in tailor͛s chalk in the inner -lining of a jacket destined for
the heir to the throne, Prince Charles.
In 1990, when Gigli separated from his friends and business partners Donato
Maiano and Carla Sozzani, McQueen returned to London where he sought
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work teaching pattern-cutting at ,c!
. Instead of a job, he was offered a place on the MA design course, his
drive and impressive curriculum vitae making up for his lack of formal
qualifications. With a loan from his Aunt Renée he completed his MA in 1992
and sold his graduate collection to the influential stylist -'% who
went on to become his muse, patron and unofficial public relations agent.
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In October 1996, at the age of 27 and having produced only eight collections,
McQueen was appointed &&,"1
, replacing
John Galliano, who went to sister label Christian Dior. Givenchy brought the
backing of luxury conglomerate Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy and enabled
McQueen to continue developing his own label. A turbulent four -and-a-half
years at Givenchy began with disappointing reviews of his first Haute Couture
collection in 1997. Fond journalists, mostly French, demanded that McQueen͛s
uncompromising avant-garde designs be softened to meet for the house
whose most famous muse was Audrey Hepburn.
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In 2001 McQueen again made the headlines with the controversial move of
selling a 23 of his label to the rival Gucci Group. Their financial
backing and insightful decision to encourage rather than suppress McQueen͛s
talents made the label an international brand.
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December 2000 saw a new partnership for McQueen, with the Gucci Group
acquiring 51% of his company and McQueen serving as Creative Director. Plans
for expansion included the opening of stores in London, Milan and New York,
and the launch of his perfumes ( and, most recently,1 *. In
2005 McQueen collaborated with
* to create a special line of trainers for
the shoe brand. In 2006 he launched , a younger, more renegade lower
priced line for men and women.
By the end of 2007, Alexander McQueen had boutiques in London, New York,
Los Angeles, Milan and Las Vegas. '1, including Nicole Kidman,
Penélope Cruz, Sarah Jessica Parker and Rihanna, have frequently been
spotted wearing Alexander McQueen clothing to events. Bjork and Lady Gaga
have often incorporated Alexander McQueen pieces in their music videos.
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ALEXANDER MCQUEEN (1969 - 2010) burst onto the fashion stage in 1992,
courting controversy as headlines hailed him as the new enfant terrible.
Though contentious and frequently misunderstood, he established the fashion
label that is now internationally acclaimed and coveted without compromising
his approach.
From the start of his career McQueen has both shocked and delighted his
audience with raw presentations often depicting bleak history and anarchic
politics. These shock tactics began in dimly -lit warehouses away from the staid
environment of the London Fashion Week tent s. His autumn/winter 1995
catwalk show in particular captured the headlines. Entitled , the
collection featured dishevelled and battered-looking models in torn clothing. It
was McQueen͛s comment on the rape of the Highlands at the hands of the
British; interpreted by others as a perverse and misogynistic celebration of the
sexual violation of women. His spring/summer 1997 collection,
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featured a black model whose movements were restrained by a metal cage
attached to her limbs, hit the headlines again. Inspired by the German puppet -
master Hans Bellmer, the rusty contraption was designed to evoke a
marionette; inevitably, again, some of the press saw bondage, slavery and the
subordination of women.
McQueen͛s flair for showmanship has led him to be celebrated as much for
outrageous theatricality as for the unique combination of aggressive tailoring
and lyrical romanticism in his clothes. As the stature of the McQueen name
grew, so did the twice-yearly spectacle. His weird and whimsical ca twalk
narratives have included models encircled in flames, drenched in rainstorms or
spun like music-box dolls on revolving circles in the floor. The shows are
inspired by *, by Stanley Kubrick, Pier Paolo Pasolini and Alfred
Hitchock, or by the # of Joel-Peter Witkin. It is Witkin͛s work
which inspired McQueen͛s spring/summer 2001 show. Models staggered
around, trapped in a mirrored box that obscured their view of the audience.
Their bandaged heads and confused expressions evoked dis ease both physical
and psychological. The spectacle ended as the walls of the glass box shattered
to the floor to reveal an obese model wearing nothing but a gas mask,
surrounded by hundreds of moths.
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audience, his models splashed down a run way covered in water.
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His most recent Spring/Summer 2010 collection was entitled Plato's Atlantis,
and inspired by his vision of a f uture ecological meltdown. Always wanting to
be the very first to experiment with the newest technologies and ideas, the
show was streamed live across the internet in a real pioneering fashion
moment.
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Most recently, the late designer struck up a notable partnership with Lady
Gaga, one of the few people who woul d actually dare to wear some of his most
dramatic designs. For his part, McQueen had the models in his S/S 2010
collection storming down the runway to the sound of La Ga. In return, she
showcased several pieces from the collection in her Bad Romance video ʹ
including those formidable 12-inch Armadillo shoes.
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The Alexander McQueen collection was launched in April 2004. The brand,
belonging to the Gucci Group, aims to encompass creativity and innovation,
even through the use of exclusive colours and innovative materials such as
wood and lace.
It mainly targets women aged between 25 and 45, and is placed in the luxury
segment. Alexander McQueen eyewear is sold all over the world, chiefly in
Europe and Asia. The ͚Alexander McQueen͛ brand is distributed in 48 countries
worldwide and notably in its three flagship s tores in London, New York and
Milan.
The 'McQ' collections included both men's and women's ready-to-wear and
accessories and were exclusively designed by Alexander M cQueen. The new
collections allowed Alexander McQueen's internationally acclaimed design
ethos to reach a much wider audience whilst complementing the brand͛s
existing highly successful main line collections of luxury ready -to-wear and
accessories.
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The metaphoric concept of ͚Power͛ is the DNA of the new collection. Physical
and mental power exist at the very core of sport and the collection strives to
interpret and convey ͚Power͛ in innovative and unexpected ways. With ͚Power͛
as a constant reference, each season͛s collection will also have a specific
seasonal theme related to sport. The Spring/Summer 20010 seasonal theme is
͚Martial Arts͛ Ͷ a sport with power at its essence, referenced in style, color
and material applications.
Shaun Leane͛s continuing work for Alexander McQueen has demanded bigger
and more elaborate jewellery creations, creating objects of imposing beauty
which push the boundaries of possibility, defying the traditional expectations
of modern jewellery. Shaun Leane has devel oped designs which fuse flesh and
moulded metal into one harmonious entity.
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Target partnered with designer Alexander McQueen for his McQ line to launch
', a unique program that features well-
established designers who draw inspiration from a collaborative partner, muse
or creative element. The exclusive McQ Alexander McQueen for Target
collection draws inspiration from British rock band The Duke Spirit, and was
launched on Target.com and at select Target stores nationwide on March 4,
2009. The collection was available through April 14, 2009.
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Known for its potent mix of rebel edge, creativity and technical mastery, McQ
Alexander McQueen for Target collection was inspired by youth subcultures,
music, rebellion and style revolution. These qualities are epitomized by Liela
Moss, lead singer of The Duke Spirit. Moss serves as McQ͛s muse for a
collection that exudes a rock ͚n͛ roll-punk vibe and hip-brit accents.
An exclusive ͞The Duke Spirit CDù was sold alongside the McQ Alexander
McQueen for Target collection. The spe cial compilation CD was also sold in the
Entertainment area at all Target stores, as well as on Target.com beginning
February 24, 2009.
The McQ Alexander McQueen for Target collection, the first Designer
Collaboration, celebrates the fusion of fashion and music at affordable prices
and makes designer fashion available to women everywhere.
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This lovely collection features hardside pieces of faux cro codile, a leather travel
wallet, overnight bag, cosmetic pouch, computer bag, a crocodile print
passport holder, several other products in the range along with a unique TSA
lock.
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Alexander McQueen continues his reign as the most innovative designer in
fashion currently with his Spring/Summer 2010 collection. Teaming up with
Lady Gaga, who premiered her new single "Bad Romance" at the show, and
broadcasting his show live on the web, McQueen continues to redefine the
fashion show.
McQueen certainly captures that in short dresses that capture marine life as
well as patterns that make the models look as if their coloring is sending a
warning -- albeit a stunning one -- much as many creatures do in the wild. The
shapes range from voluminous and bubbly to stiffly structured li ke coral or
fins; it isn't anything out of the ordinary for "edgy" fashion but combined with
the prints and other details it makes for mindblowing apparel.
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The shoes are nearly as insane as Nina Ricci's Fall 2009 footwear, intricately
made (and seemingly impossible to wear practically). The designs reinforce the
reptilian and aquatic nature of the show, while adding typical McQueen over -
the-top flair.
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The other details made the show as fantastical and awe -inspiringly beauitful as
it was. The hair had almost a galatic feel, imitating fins and reptilian bone
structure, and evidences McQueen's relationship with Lady Gaga, who always
styles her hair in the most eccentric ways. The craftsmanship is gorgeous, per
usual, and the dresses truly do look as if they have scales or other aquatic
enhancements while still remaining feminine.
Working with a palette of graphic black, red and white, the McQueen took
tactful staples like the skirt suit and the strapless cocktail dress and pushed
them beyond the boundaries of politeness.
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He nipped the New Look suit͛s wasp-waist even further, inflated its square
shoulders and fluffed up the crinoline skirts. He padded the cascading train of a
strapless evening gown until its skirts turned into a sort of bean bag that the
model struggled to shuffle around the runway.
The black and white houndstooth checks that opened the show gave way to a
red and black M.C. Escher-inspired print of ducks in flight that morph into
houndstooth. McQueen also heaped on metalwork -studded hardware and
feathers.
Models, their faces covered in white and their mouths an oversized smear of
red lipstick, picked their way around a huge pile of stylized rubbish in the
middle of the catwalk and stopping in front of the photographers, leered.
It was beauty transformed into ugliness and then back into beauty again.
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c? * ' are well known all over the world for its
exquisite designs and wide range of choices. Each bag is meticul ously
handcrafted keeping the taste of fashion conscious women in mind. Alexander
McQueen Handbags are available in a wide range of colors and designs which
have been appreciated and accepted by many.
They give a sense of individuality and fashion to the user. Along with handbags,
the company also manufactures an elite line up of footwear products. Infusing
knowledge of British tailoring, Alexander McQueen Handbags are made by the
best experts in the industry who have significant years of experience in th eir
fields of specialization. Every Alexander McQueen Handbag displays the
magnificent craftsmanship that goes beyond its manufacture.
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mcqueen-shoot-and-sasst/7319
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