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instructables

Cheap DIY Front Panels

by dankly1

I wanted a way to be able to design my own front time and cost.


panels for some synth builds and other modular stuff
that was affordable. I will eventually get myself a Just to add, anyone interested in the compressor, it is
CNC milling machine, and drill and engrave them that the Gyraf SSL clone (google) but with my own
way for a much more professional finish, but in the 'Eurorack' sized panel.
meantime i feel i have come up with a decent enough
solution that is of an pretty good standard given the

Step 1: Design and Print Your Panel Graphics

This may not sit well with some because it essentially There is a print option in the file or edit menu i think
involves using free software intended for people that where you need to print your design onto plain white
wish to design and purchase front panels from this paper initially. There is also the option to include the
company, but this is the internet after all. Front Panel markings for hole centres etc, which it would be wise
Express allow you to download their programme and to do for this initial copy.
come up with your own designs, all done to scale.

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Step 2: Prepare Your Panel Material

This material that i used is actually used for etched be using it for that.
signs that you may see in the workplace on doors and
the likes. It's basically like a plastic inner with a thin I 'acquired' a sheet of the stuff and thought it would be
aluminium sheet laminated onto each side. This is perfect for this type of application as it is light, easy to
silver on one side and white on the other with a black cut and drill, yet rigid. This step basically just involves
inner but it comes in various colours. I think it's cutting a piece of whatever material you are using for
supposed to be used by etching directly onto the thin your panel down to the correct size ready for drilling.
aluminium which then exposes the black plastic,
causing it to look like it has been infilled, but i won't

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Step 3: Drill!

Tape the design onto the panel and drill all the holes. Mine look a bit jagged in places but its mainly where I've cut
into the aluminium with a knife when removing all the burrs left after drilling. Plus it won't be seen once the pots
and knobs are fitted.

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Step 4: Print Design Onto Clear Plastic

I bought a roll of this stuff on eBay, £13 for a roll 5m x copying onto plain paper. Once you are happy you
600mm or something like that, which will last me have aligned the design fairly central to an A4 sheet,
ages. Obviously you could buy any colour you like if you need to cut a piece of the clear plastic and stick it
you wanted to design a coloured panel, but i stuck (with the backing still on, stick it with sellotape) to a
with clear so that the aluminium fascia would be on piece of plain paper, and load it into the correct tray
show. Worth bearing in mind that if you did buy for the photocopier to take it through. Make sure you
another colour, you would still need clear stuff as tape across the full edge that will be entering the
well, as you will see in the next step. copier head on as it could get jammed otherwise.

As i don't have a laser jet printer at home, i printed If you have a laser printer you could print directly onto
another copy of my deign onto plain paper using a the plastic rather than photocopying, but you'd have
heavy ink setting, the darker the better. I then to do a test to see how well your printer takes the
photocopied the design at work using the laser sticky back plastic into the printer, either fixed to a
copier, as this will only work with toner. It took a bit of piece of paper as above, or just on its own (i never
experimentation getting the design aligned correctly tried this).
in the scanner, but this stage can be done initially

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1

1. This is the design printed onto the clear plastic with the back still
on it and taped to a piece of A4.

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1

1. I used a lightbox to align my design correctly over all the holes.

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Step 5: Align and Stick the Design

This part takes a bit of care. I found the best way to Given that there are so many holes in the panel, the
do it is to firstly peel back some of the adhesive plastic was quite forgiving in that any air bubbles are
backer from one side and cut right across it with fairly easily worked away. This plastic stuff is also
scissors so it separates from the part thats still stuck. able to be stuck using washing up liquid and water,
Then i stuck it back onto the plastic so it was back in but for a design this size, i was confident doing it dry.
its initial place, but was not attached to the other half.
Be careful not to touch the sticky side of the plastic Once it was all flat and bubble free, i trimmed the
while doing this, it makes sense to leave some edges and then the holes. Finally, i played another
excess round the edges so you can handle it without piece of the same material with no printed design
worrying. Now you need to align the design over the over the top to 'seal in' the toner. I left this piece
light box as the light shines through the holes making slightly bigger and wrapped it round to the underside
it fairly easy to get right. Once you are happy, sit to give it a smooth edge and hopefully stop it from
something heavy on one side and then carefully lift peeling away in time.
the other side of the design up enough to be able to
peel away the one half of the backer (cut earlier) and And thats it! It's not a professional finish, but in a cost
allow the design to smoothly return to its flat position, vs outcome i think you'll be happy. Cheers.
now stuck on the panel. Repeat in similar fashion on
the other half, safe in the knowledge that the already P.S Still waiting on the knobs, ill add another pic
stuck side is ensuring the design is aligned correctly. when they turn up.

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Ow, wow. I can't thank you enough. I built an enclosure to house my cnc controller about 2 years
ago, and have been using printed label tape ever since to label input x,y,z, and limit switches. I've
always wanted to do something custom and the aluminum panel idea is perfect. Thanks again.
Glad to help!
I actually design and make all my panel designs for everything I build. I use most any program that
allows you to do a layout for your project. I use Visio only because I am very comfortable with that
program, having used it for many years. But any program can be used. Then since I have a large
bed LASER engraver, I transfer my design to Corel Draw and send it to the LASER. And you can
pick any color, texture, and finish you could imagine. Just search on the net for Engravable
laminates and see all the options available. Then LASER cuts the design into the laminate
material. Your method almost copies that idea. And if you don't have a Large Bed LASER
Engraver, no problem, just take your design to most any local trophy shop and they will do it for
you. So any custom panels you could even need are your imagination. I attached a few panels I
made for myself. Thanks you for a great post and project. I like your designs.

Thanks for the message, and great work on those panels! I basically see myself progressing to a
method like you are using once i'm ready, but i like the idea of the trophy engravers in the mean
time! Ill check out Visio too. Cheers.
Ha dankly1, I don't see anything wrong with your approach. I think you did a great project. I just
wanted to show you another option as well. I'd like to see your project when you get it finished with
knobs on it. I bet it looks great. We all are here to learn different ideas and such and I do like your
ideas for panels. Thumbs Up sir!
Really neat solution. Thank you for sharing this. I only have pretty poor printer at home, but I've
found that the local copy-shop is very helpful with doing odd things (like printing to plastic) and it's
not expensive for one or two sheets.
Also, do you have a source for that moving-coil meter? I've been trying to find some recently but
haven't been able to source any which I liked.

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Hi mate, yeah use whatever you need to and when you get a chance to get hold of a laser printer
at home you can do it all in house! In terms of the meter, i honestly can't remember where i got it
as this is a project that i started about 7 years ago and shelved for one reason or another. It is only
a basic version though and will only have been from one of the typical uk electronics retailers such
as mouser or farewell or something like that. If you go on the gyraf site (google it) the forum page
for this project (SSL compressor) has loads of info and you should find what you need on there.
Cheers
Simple and clever idea, I like it!

Thanks!

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