NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

SEWN PRODUCTS MACHINERY AND EQUIPMENT

ARTICLE WRITING

TOPIC – CLASS 200 - STITCHES

Submitted To – Ms. Nilima

Submitted By –
Naila Firdaus(Bft/19/481)
Ballabhi (Bft/19/1014)
Aastha (Bft/19/445)
Yogesh (Bft/19/1532)
(B.F. Tech-III)
 Hand Stitches
Depending on the stitch and its use, some techniques require a double thread (sewing on a
button, or securing hooks/eyes and snaps), but most are worked with single thread. A
relatively short length of thread is strongly recommended.The thread that is too long can
become tangled easily and will tend to fray and break.Many sewing experts recommend
using thread no longer than 18 to 24 inches.It is always important to select the appropriate
thread and needle for the fabric and the task.
1. Use extra-fine thread for basting stitches–it is a very fine thread that does not show
press marks.
2. Use topstitching or buttonhole thread for making hand buttonholes and for sewing
on buttons or other fasteners.You can also use button or carpet thread for sewing on
buttons. When a heavier thread is used, a single strand rather than double is
sufficient.
3. Use a color similar to the garment for basting, since some colors (especially dark
colors) rub off or transfer.
4. Hand needles come in a variety of sizes and types. For finer fabrics, use a smaller
needle.
5. Use a finer needle when short, single stitches are required such as pad stitching.
Longer needles are preferred when multiple stitches are to be stitched at one time,
such as basting.

Standards
A well-made hand stitch will:
1. be secured at the beginning and ending with no loose threads.
2. have a uniform length.
3. be invisible on the outside of the garment.
4. be neat on the inside.
5. have knots or thread ends between the fabric layers or hidden within construction
details.
6. consist of an appropriate thread type for the stitch, fabric, and task.
7. be smooth and not create puckers on the right or wrong sides of the fabric.

Introduction - Class-200 is named as hand stitch which is produced from a single thread.
This single thread is passed through the fabric from one side to another and the stitch is
secured by the single line of thread passing in and out of the garment. These types of
stitches are hand stitches that are used for decorative purposes. This is mostly used for
casual fitting with a simple sewing needle and thread as domestic needs but is also found as
topstitch in high-priced garment due to its perfect finish. This can also be done on automatic
machines called pick stitch sewing machines but are very slow and are rarely in use.
Class-200 (Hand Stitch) has four types- running basting, backstitch, diagonal basting, and
buttonhole stitch. These types of stitches are used for stitching costly dresses, jackets, and
sample dresses.

Features of Stitch class 200 :-

✓ This type is originated from hand stitches.
✓ It is produced from a single thread.
✓ This thread is passed through the fabric from one side to another and the stitch is
secured by the single line of thread passing in and out of the garment.
✓ Rare is use, limited length of sewing
✓ LookThe needle is double pointed with Centre eyeds like domestic hand stitch

Types of stitch class 200 :-

Stitch class 200 is divided into three types. Those are:-
1. Stitch class 202
2. Stitch class 205 &
3. Stitch class 209
1. Stitch class 202 :

Single Thread Hand Sewn Stitches Using One Needle Thread

Its look like domestic hand stitch.
Only one Thread is used .
Typical uses:-
Stitch class 202 is mainly used for
➢ Basting
➢ Repairing or Tacking

Disadvantages :
✓ Time consuming process
✓ Higher cost
✓ Speed of sewing is very slow
✓ Rare in use

2. Stitch class 205 :

Feature :
Class 205 simulates a hand running stitch but formed by a special machine
Class 205 is used occasionally on the front edges of men’s jackets and coats for aesthetic
purposes
Its look like domestic hand stitch.
Only one Thread is used .

Typical uses :
Stitch class 205 is mainly used for
➢ Pick stitch
➢ Top stitch
Advantages:
✓ For pick & top stitching, stitch class 205 is highly effectively.

3. Stitch class 209 :

Feature
Its look like domestic hand stitch.
Only one Thread is used .
Typical uses :

Stitch class 209 is mainly used for-

➢ Edge of jacket
➢ Coat &
➢ Expensive clothes

Disadvantages :
➢ Time consuming process
➢ Higher cost
➢ Speed of sewing is very slow
 Needle
A sewing needle, used for hand-sewing, is a long slender tool with a pointed tip at one end
and a hole at the other.

Needles vary according to:

• Needle size and length - Needles with a larger number are finer and shorter. Smaller
Numbers mean the needle is thicker and longer.

• Shape of the eye - The eye size and the tip size determine the kind of thread you can
use and the fabric they are suited to. The eye might be small and rounded or long
and open to fit thick threads.
• Type of point - Points can be sharp to pierce thick fabric or blunt to go through holes
when you are sewing tapestries. A ballpoint tip is particularly suited to stretch knits
while the thick curved needle is best for upholstery.
• The purpose of the needle - The purpose of the needle helps to determine what the
needle is used for and the number length and shaft size, as well as the size of the
eye, determine the type of fabric the needle is suited to.

Types of needles used for Hand Stitching

1. Sharps

These are general all-purpose needles used for hand

sewing. They have a Round eye with a medium length.

2. Embroidery/Crewel needles
They have long narrow eyes with a very sharp point. They are
of medium length. This is usually what we use as normal
embroidery needles. They come in sizes 1- 10 .
Needles with the number 6- 8 are the most commonly used
needles. For lightweight fabric with two strands of thread
number 7 needle is used.
3.Tapestry needles
These needles have a blunt point and a large eye (Oval eye) –
an elongated eye for easy threading, and a blunt point glide
smoothly through the holes in your fabric, without splitting the
threads. Sizes range from 13-28.
It is especially used for needlepoint, counted cross-stitch and
counted thread embroidery.

4 Beading needles
These are the needles used to string beads in bead
embroidery. The small beads need a needle with a very small
eye, so normal needles are usually out of question. Usually
beading needles are very thin and long with tiny eye
otherwise small beads would not pass through.

5 Chenille needles

This needle have large eyes and very sharp points. The eyes
are large enough to accommodate ribbon and other thick
yarn. Sizes 13-24 are generally used

6. Leather needles
These are needles (Glovers) with a sharp tip shaped
like a triangle for cutting into thick leather.
Leather needles with longer triangular point at the end
are called sail makers needles. These needles are ideal
for thicker leather.
 Hand Sewing Needle Types, Size/Shape and Uses

Stitch Types
There are many types and names of hand stitches. The hand stitches discussed here are
a few of the more common ones used in home sewing.
Some hand stitches such as the prickstitch and backstitch should be pulled tight. The tailor's
hem, however, should have some "give." Most stitches used for hemming should be secure
but never so tight that they pull on the fabric, causing it to pucker.

Backstitch (Prickstitch) -- a very strong, secure stitch. Sometimes a distinction is made

between the backstitch and prickstitch. Some authorities consider the prickstitch to be the
shorter, finer stitch. Stitches are even and evenly spaced on the top side of the fabric. On
the back or underside, the stitches overlap slightly. The stitch is used:
• to hold fabric pieces together firmly–sew or
repair seams.
• in place of machine stitching in handmade
garments.
• as understitching for delicate garments or a
difficult-to-reach location.
• to put a zipper in by hand.
Mechanism - To do the backstitch, begin by securing the thread on the underneath side or
between the fabric layers. Bring the needle through to the right side of the fabric. Insert the
needle approximately 1/16 to 1/8-inch to the back of where the thread came out of the
fabric. Pass the needle under all layers of the fabric and forward twice the length of the
stitch (approximately 1/8 to 1/4-inch). Bring the needle back to the top or surface of the
fabric pulling the thread snug. Stitches will have a chain-like look on the underneath side.

Buttonhole --a very strong stitch. It is worked from right to left with the point of the needle
toward you and the raw edge of the fabric (edge of the fastener you are covering) away
from you. The stitch is used to:
• make hand worked buttonholes.
• sew on fasteners (snaps, hooks, and eyes).
• finish the edge of an appliqué
• cover hooks and eyes.

Mechanism - To do the buttonhole stitch, secure thread end and bring thread to the outside
edge. When working a buttonhole, insert the needle to the backside between the lips,
bringing the point 4 of the needle to the surface approximately a 1/8-inch below the lip.
Wrap the thread under the needle from left to right. Pull the needle through allowing the
loop to slide to the edge of the lip forming a knot as the thread is pulled very secure. When
covering hooks and eyes, bring the needle to the surface. Sew around the fastener looping
the thread behind the needle to form tight knots along one side. Stitches should be very
close together and very secure.

Catch stitch -- worked from left to right from one edge of the fabric to another creating an
X-like formation. The X-like formation provides some elasticity or “give” in the stitch, which
is ideal in some situations (working with knit fabric, tacking facings, etc.). It is used:
• for hemming.
• for tacking a facing at a seam edge.
• to hold interfacing pieces together.
Cross-stitch tack -- a decorative as well as a functional
stitch. The stitch provides a degree of flexibility yet security
to an area. It is often used when tailoring a jacket or coat
lining to secure the center back ease pleat and any dart
tucks.
A series of diagonal stitches are taken ¼ to ½- inch apart
through all layers of fabric, to form a series of “X’s” or
crosses. Either single or double thread can be used.

Basting stitch
This is very much like a running stitch but the difference is that it consists of very long
stitches.This stitch is usually used as an alternative to pinning. Also used to gather fabric.

The three types of ways Basting stitches are used are

1. Even basting : 1/4 inch long stitches are made throughout on either side of the
fabric.
2. Uneven basting : Long stitches are taken on one side and short stitches on the other
side.
3. Diagonal basting : Obviously this basting is done diagonally. Used to hold many
layers of fabric together. Especially used to hold interfacing and lining to the main
fabric.
 References

https://sewguide.com/easy-hand-stitches/
https://www.google.com/search?q=types+of+needle+used+for+handstitch&oq=typ&aqs=ch
rome.0.69i59j69i57j0i395l3j69i60l2j69i61.3015j1j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
https://lindexfashion.blogspot.com/2016/11/features-of-stitch-class-200-its-types.html
https://www.kresent.com/types-of-hand-stitches/