November 2009 www.traveltimes-mag.

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Trekking
in Nepal
ia ng

If travelling be the spice of life, trekking will

l
ec ki

quench your thirst! Find out why Nepal is

sp ek

truly a trekker’s paradise.

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TSUM VALLEY
tashi
tenzing
sherpa
on Personality Review
gokyo
lake
on Destination
Spotlight
heli-
trekking
on Company Profile

50 56 62
TIMES 09
Editorial
Dear Readers,
With the end of the torrential rains of the monsoons in
Nepal comes trekking season. The clouds clear up, the
sun shines brighter (on most days) and the mountains
beckon to the trekker inside us all. The country sees
a sudden surge in tourists from all over the world,
trekkers who have heard about the splendor of the
magnificent Himalayas here in Nepal and have given in
to this temptation.
This month, Travel Times, your travel companion,
brings to you a Trekking Special issue to rid you of the
conundrum of where to trek to and for what reasons. not to miss in Bangkok and the local cuisine from the
Nepal makes for such a great trekkers’ destination Thak region that we can’t seem to get enough of!
in this season not only because of the sheer density
of mountains here (eight of the world’s fourteen Happy Traveling!
highest peaks to be precise) but also because of the
The Editorial Team
many other highlights of our trekking trails such as
Himalayan flora and fauna, our rich culture and the Please do send us your valuable comments and suggestions
hospitality of the Nepalese. We also have an exclusive at feedback@traveltimes-mag.com
interview with Tashi Tenzing Sherpa, grandson of
Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, talking about his memories of
growing up with a famous grandfather.
Also in this issue: amazing Heli Trekking tours, what

Contents 50
62

30 56

Start traveling....with Travel Times

26 Travelogue 54 Health Times
Walking on thin Ice Staying healthy on a trek
The whipping winds reason otherwise but the views push Simple health tips from the expert to make sure you conclude
you on. With water bottles frozen and no toilet paper, your trek on a great note.
a trekker stubbornly climbs on and is rewarded at 5415
meters... 56 Destination Spotlight
Gokyo Lake
30 Cover Story A series of high altitude lakes at around 4800m in the Sagarmatha
Trekking in Nepal, Where, When and Why National Park in the Solukhumbu district of Nepal.
If travelling be the spice of life, trekking will quench your
thirst! Find out why Nepal is truly a trekker’s paradise. 60 Travel Tips
Right Shoe Forward
44 Global Treasure Guidelines to choosing the right shoe for specific kinds of treks.
Amazing Bangkok
A paradise for tourists of all kinds; culture junkies, 62 Company Profile
architecture fanatics, romantics, the pious, history geeks and Heli-trekking with Fishtail Air
shopaholics. Don’t have weeks to trek through the mountains and go
sightseeing? Don’t sweat it. Make it short and sweet - get on a
50 Personality Review chopper for a Heli-trek!
An Hour with Tashi Tenzing Sherpa
Grandson of Nepal’s most famous mountaineer reminisces
about growing up with a famous grandfather and why his
book on the Sherpa people was necessary.

8 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 9
 Contents
68

94
78

Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd.

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90 82 E-mail: info@traveltimes-mag.com
URL: www.traveltimes-mag.com

editorial team
Chairman Deepak Bhatta
Managing Director / Editor A. R. Tandukar
Associate Editor Shambhu Tandukar

68 People & Culture 12 Travel News Creative Head

Copy Editor
Mahesh Tandukar
Utsav Shakya
The Sherpa People of Illam Get with the latest news and events in Inhouse Writer Prita Malla
Fine examples of how a community is Nepal and around the globe. Graphics Designer Manoj Manandhar
Director Sales & Marketing Tilak Khatri
defined as much by the conditions they live
in as by time-tested traditions. 20 Market Guide Marketing Executive
Photographer
Anumesh Bajracharya
Suresh Maharjan
A sneak peek on what is new in the Manager - Subscription &
72 Hotels & Casinos market. Distribution Sajjan Bhandari
Distribution Executive Arjun Thapa
Gokarna Forest and Resort
Get away from the humdrum of city life into 22 New in town
an eco-friendly paradise. MOODS Studio Lounge, a new Advisors
A. Das gupta
hangout in town Sushil Bhatta
78 FOODRINK Upendra Hirawat

Thakali Thali 24 Travel Gallery Abhishek Anand

Deepak Jain
Featuring a chosen image sent in by
Arguably the most popular Nepali cuisine
travelers.
of the hills, the Thakali Thali like any other Partners
China Southern Airlines
great recipe, also has a bit of history attached
to it.
42 Trek Kit Gorkha Travels
Craft Garden
Apparels and accessories for trekking Dakshinkali Hill Resort

82 Nature and Wildlife
Himalayan Flora & Fauna
Trekking in Nepal is more than just for
the adrenaline rush and the great views.
The mountains are a treasure trove for an
amazing array of flora and fauna.
86 A Tale of Vagabond
76 Recommended Restaurants Color Separation: CTP Nepal Pvt. Ltd
A guide to the most happening Hattiban, 5250466, 5250468
restaurants in town. Printing: Jagadamba Press, Hattiban, 5250017
Travel Times is published by Travel Times Media Pvt.
98 Trip Clipper Ltd. All rights reserved in respect of articles, illustrations,
photographs, etc. published in Travel Times magazine. The
contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole
or in part in any form without the written consent of the
publisher. The opinions expressed by contributors are not

The travelling twosome
Valeriy and Nadia give pointers on how to
make the most of your travels and list some
of their most memorable travels.
90 Perfect Takeaways
Incense - Essence of the ages
Smell good it does - but the incense sticks
used in almost all Nepali ceremonies have a
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accept responsibility for any errors or omissions.
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94 Festival Watch ** Acceptance of submissions at publisher’s discretion
The philosophical concept of Mha Puja
Reserve your subscription today. Contact at
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10 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 11

India and Pokhara to be
air-linked
On October 28, 2009 a skydiving event was
held at Gorak Shep. During the event,
Asian Alpine Association to meet for conference in
Hongkong
Union of Asian Alpine Associations (UAAA)
has organized its conference in Hong Kong.
The representatives from Japan, Korea, Chi-
na, India, Pakistan and Singapore and more
than 25 nations had participated in the event
to form a new working committee.
China has built an earth-
quake monitoring station
at foot of Mount Everest
Dutch Team claims Nepal a
good spot for tourism
A team from Netherlands that had arrived
in Nepal by TUI ArkeFly of Netherlands
has found Nepal a suitable site for tourism.
The Manager of TUI group Manfred Lahe
said, “I found possibilities of tourism market
12 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
Travelnews NATIONAL
world skydiving champion Wendy Smith
from New Zealand, Global Angels ambas-
sador and tandem master Tom Noonan and
Wing Commander Jai Kishan from the In-
dian Air Force, made a successful landing
at the Gorak Shep, Kala Patthar plateau,
lying at an altitude of 17,192 feet (5,242m),
right beside Mt. Everest. This is believed
to be the highest skydiving stunt performed
over highest drop zone in the world.
The operation was carried out from Fishtail
Air’s AS 350 B3 helicopter flown by Capt.
Sabin Basnet and Capt. Deepak Rana.
According to Ang Tsering Sherpa, presi-
dent of UAAA, the conference discussed
on mountaineering tourism and activities
to bring effectiveness in tourism reducing
negative impacts to the environment.
Targeting Nepal Tourism Year 2011 (NTY
2011), Nepal Mountaineering Association
(NMA) has insisted to organize the Inter-
national Mountaineering meet in Nepal
as well. Sherpa has urged the committee
to organize the next conference in Nepal
during NTY 2011.
itage of upper Mustang which reflects an-
cient Tibetan tradition attracts tourists to
the tiny Trans-Himalayan district.
China built an earthquake monitoring
station at the foot of Mount Everest, to
improve scientific understanding of the
world’s highest peak.
Shang Rongbo, deputy director of the earth-
quake monitoring and warning center un-
der the regional seismology bureau, said the
station is located at about 14,000 feet (4,255
meters) in Tibet’s Tingri County. He said
the station would boost real-time collection
of data about seismic events along the Chi-
na-Nepal border, sending that by satellite to
research centers elsewhere.
The dives were performed in the morning
of 28th Oct, 2009 between 7:30 to 9 AM.
The helicopter took off with the skydiving
team from Shyangboche airport and flew to
a height of 23,000 feet before dropping from
21,000 feet at right air layer.
As a continuation of the Everest Skydive
2008, the Everest Skydive 2009 program was
organized by Explore Himalaya with the
help of Nepal Tourism board to promote
Nepal Tourism Year 2011.During the event,
all the skydivers sported the logo of Nepal
Tourism Year 2011 on their jumpsuits.
Biratnagar to host
major industrial trade
fair
Biratnagar of Morang district will host a
weeklong agriculture, tourism and indus-
trial trade fair starting from January 19, 2010
with the aim of commercial development
of agriculture, tourism and industrial prod-
ucts, organized in collaboration of Morang
Industry Association. The District Devel-
opment Committee, Biratnagar Sub-Met-
ropolitan City, Commercial Agriculture
Alliance, Regional Agricultural Directorate
and Regional Livestock Service Directorate
are co-organizers of the fair.
According to the organizers there will be at
least 16 stalls featuring agriculture machin-
ery and tools, industrial and agriculture
products, handicrafts, garments and auto-
mobiles will be put on display in the fair.
People from Sunsari, Jhapa, Udayapur, Si-
raha, Saptari, Ilam, Panchthar, Dhankuta,
Tehrathum, Bhojpur districts as well as
from India and Bangladesh are expected to
participate.
here,” he said adding that the Dutch people
are interested in spending their vacation in
Nepal. The airlines made its first flight to
Kathmandu from Amsterdam on October
7 with 153 passengers. It has selected Malla
Travels as its authorized agent in Nepal.
To enlist your news send us the details at
news@traveltimes-mag.com
 Travelnews NATIONAL

Nepali mountaineer to gift U.S. president with rock Nepal in international

from Mt. Qomolangma
Mountaineer Pemba Dorje Sherpa, who set
the world record for conquering Qomolang-
ma in the shortest time ever in 2004, plans to
gift United States President Barack Obama
a piece of rock from Mt. Qomolangma base
Statues of 3 tourism ‘heroes’ at Nepal Tourism Board
The statue of first Mt Everest conqueror
Tenzing Norgay Sherpa.along with Sir Ed-
mund Hilary and adventurer Boris Lissanev-
itch has been erected at the premises of Ne-
camp during his visit to the United States
next month to highlight the impact of cli-
mate change in the region.
Sherpa who has already climbed the sum-
mit for 10 times also plans to show pictures
and videos from the region to Obama dur-
ing his visit starting from Nov. 7. Prime
Minister Madhav Kumar Nepal had also
gifted Obama with a piece of rock from Qo-
molangma to highlight the same cause dur-
ing his recent U.S. trip to participate in the
United Nations General Assembly.
pal Tourism Board (NTB) in honor of their
contribution to the country.
Subash Niraula, Senior Director at the NTB
said, “They have all played significant roles
for the promotion of tourism in Nepal,”.
Hilary and Sherpa were the first two persons
to scale up the world´s highest peak on 29
May 1953, whereas Lissanevitch was the first
to introduce the concept of ´tourist friendly
hotels´ in Nepal.
trade fair
Nepal will be participating in an interna-
tional trade fair on construction equip-
ment and technology hosted by India from
November 25-29. Organized by Federation
of Indian Chambers and Commerce In-
dustry (FICCI), the trade fair aims at pro-
moting advance equipments and technol-
ogy related to infrastructure development.
Dozer, roller, crane, motor and motor parts
will be put on sales and exhibition. Besides
Nepal and India, the US, Britain, China,
Germany, Italy, South Korea and 34 other
countries will also take part in the fair that
will have 282 exhibition stalls. The event
is expected to help Nepal bring in latest
equipments and technology developed in
the field of infrastructure development.

Yeti Travels acquires Skoda

Yeti Travels acquired eight Sko- ing quality service, continuity

da Lauras from Skoda MAW,
the sole distributor of Skoda
Auto in Nepal. With this acqui-
sition, Yeti’s fleet now numbers
114 vehicles.
Singha B. Basnyat, chairman
of Yeti Travels, received the car
keys from Jan Kreuter, chargé
d’affaires, Embassy of the
Czech Republic, at the Skoda
showroom in Thapathali.
On the occasion, Basnyat said
that Yeti Travels believed in its
longstanding tradition of provid-
and innovative approaches.
He also highlighted Nepal
being included in the Top 10
hottest destinations for 2010
and adding the Skodas to its
vehicle fleet was in prepara-
tion for Nepal Tourism Year
2011.
Kreuter said that tourism in
Nepal was one of the most
important sectors and needed
to be continuously reinforced
keeping up with international
standards.

TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 13

 Travelnews NATIONAL

Welcome to 3rd NATTA Himalayan UFTAA Congress

Intl. Travel Mart 2009 at Foot of Himalaya
The organizing of an Inter- rd
ings, B2B session and so- The 43rd UFTAA Con- and other associations. It
3 NATTA Himalayan
national Travel Mart of International Travel Mart 2009 cial functions will mark gress is going to be is an occasion for you
such great magnitude in the Mart schedule, held at Kathmandu to network, to ex-
Nepal was initiated by city and shopping this November change information,
Nepal Association of tours as well as (20-24) under the to make your voice
Tour and Travel Agents the customary day theme “Sustain- heard, to monitor
(NATTA) in 2005 and long excursion set ability, Networking industry trends in
then in 2007, in close in the Shangri-La and Profitability”. the world and to de-
conjunction with Nepal th
ambience of the city Nepal Association of velop business oppor-
23-25 November 2009,
Tourism Board and Nepal Kathmandu, Nepal of Kathmandu. Under Tour and Travel Agents tunities. The upcoming
Airlines Corporation. The event the theme “Sustainability, Association (NATTA) is lead- 43rd UFTAA World Congress
is now being held for the 3rd time and Networking and Profitability” the ing this gala event as an organizer is going to be held in Nepal.
it carries global brand value. The 3rd co- organizers- Nepal Tourism Board along with Nepal Tourism Board and
NATTA Himalayan International Travel (NTB) and Nepal Airlines Corporation Nepal Airlines as co-organizers. The prestigious congress to be host-
Mart 2009 being held in Kathmandu, have spared no efforts to make this ed in Kathmandu was won by bidding
Nepal from 23-25 November 2009 international level event success- UFTAA is a world body represent- a proposal at Hyderabad, India in one
has provided a wonderful opportunity ful and enjoyable for all delegates. ing the travel agency and tourism of the board meetings of UFTAA. Mr.
for the tourism fraternity to assemble About 200 travel trade related entre- industry. The United Federation of Pavitra Karki was elected as Board
together under a common roof and preneurs from countries like Hong Travel Agents’ Associations (UFTAA) of Director of UFTAA for South Asian
interact to improve their business net- Kong, China, Taiwan, France, Monaco, emanates from the Universal Fed- Region at 42nd UFTAA Congress at
work. Poland, India, Bangladesh, Cambodia, eration of Travel Agents’ Association Manila, Philippines. This year around
Philippines, Thailand, Malaysia, Zam- created in Rome, Italy, on November 200+ participants are expected to at-
The first NATTA Himalayan Interna- bia, Sri Lanka, Israel, Bhutan, Paki- 22nd, 1966. UFTAA was originally tend the Congress from 80 member
tional Travel Mart was organized stan, Mynmar, Turkey, Singapore, Italy, founded as a result of a merger of countries. The Board Members of UF-
under the theme ‘Streaming Efforts Spain, Bulgaria, Switzerland and Swe- two large world organizations, FIAV TAA are scheduled to arrive at Kath-
of Promoting Inter-Regional Tourism’. den have sent in their entry forms with and UOTAA, recognizing the need mandu on 18th for the Board Meeting
The event, the first of its kind in Nepal, more entries flooding in every day. to unify travel agencies and tour- on 19th Nov. Other participants will
coincided with the 15th National Con- operators into one international fed- arrive on 19th and 20th Nov. The
vention of NATTA. There were more This year the 3rd NATTA Himalayan eration. UFTAA started its operation grand inauguration of the 43rd UF-
than 150 foreign participants including Int’l Travel Mart has coincided with as a Confederation on January 1st, TAA World Congress is programmed
exhibitors from 18 countries and more 43rd UFTAA World Congress which 2003. It is a non-profit confederation at Hotel Soaltee on 20th November
than 400 local participants participat- will be wrapping up on the 23rd and of international scope, representing 2009. The 21st and 22nd will have
ed in the Mart with a total of 30 stalls on the same day, the Mart will be in- regional federations comprising of the working sessions of the congress
from the entire tourism fraternity. augurated at Bhrikuti Mandap. There some 80 national associations. Nepal where speakers from Canada, Singa-
are more than 50 dedicated buyers Association of Tour and Travel Agents pore and Nepal will present on vari-
Following the grand success of the and exhibitors attending the Mart on Association (NATTA) has been a mem- ous tourism affairs and issues. The
First NATTA Himalayan International special invitation by NATTA. UFTAA ber of UFTAA since the 1980s. 44th UFTAA World Congress-2010
Travel Mart, NATTA organized the 2nd participants will also be attending the host country will host an exclusive
Himalayan International Travel Mart Mart. 24th Nov is marked for the B2B The UFTAA congress is one of the dinner on 21st Nov at Hotel Soaltee.
under the theme ‘Tourism: Prosperity session which will be held at Gokarna highlights of the industry’s year, and This year special focus will be given
for Posterity’. The event coincided Forest Resort. 25th Nov is the last day attracts participants ranging from Na- to B2B/Networking among the for-
with the 16th National Convention of of Mart where the general public will tional Association’s delegates, Travel eign participants and local partici-
NATTA. be allowed to visit the Mart for free. Agents, Travel Partners, Tour Opera- pants.
tors, Suppliers, Government Agencies
This year, beside the official gather-

UFTAA Director/2nd Vice President

NHITM Coordinator Mr. Pavirta Kumar Karki’s Message:
Mr. Shambhu Pathak’s Message The UFTAA congress at the foot of Himalaya
will provide an astonishing opportunity for all
The only International Travel Mart in Nepal will the tourism leaders from various parts of the
play a vital role in tourism promotion and global globe to discover Nepal. A tourism event of this
recognition to Nepal as a top class destination. magnitude will set a benchmark in MICE tour-
This event will also act as a stepping stone for ism. The event has been touted as the Olympics
the success of Nepal Tourism Year 2011. of tourism.

ORGANIZER: CO-ORGANIZER: OFFICIAL MAGAZINE

TIMES
yourtravelcompanion

14 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 15
 Travelnews interNATIONAL

Positive trends for Asia IATA welcomes environmental progress

Pacific tourism – PATA
Figures released by PATA show that the
numbers of international visitors to the Asia
Pacific region* improved by a marginal 0.5
percent in August 2009 compared to Au-
gust 2008. However, figures recorded for
the first eight months of 2009 in the same
region show that international visitor ar-
rivals are down, year-on-year, by some five
percent.
The International “We took a step in the right direction, to-
Air Transport As- ward a global sectoral approach, but there
sociation (IATA) is still a lot of ground to cover. As a unit-
welcomed progress ed industry, we remain committed to the
made at the Interna- ambitious environmental targets that we
tional Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) brought to this meeting. Governments took
High Level Meeting on International Avia- note of our targets and recognized the need
tion and Climate Change (HLM-ENV). to work with industry to secure a sustain-
IATA urged governments to move forward able future for aviation. This is significant
quickly to implement what was agreed and progress,” said Giovanni Bisignani, IATA’s
develop an even more ambitious agenda. Director General and CEO.
Singapore unveils world- Burj Dubai observation
first attraction deck to open this year

Northeast Asia recorded a year-on-year

increase of four percent in international
visitor arrivals for August 2009 with growth
in China (PRC) (+3 percent), Hong Kong
SAR (+6 percent) and Macau SAR (+7
percent) pushing the August 2009 figure
back to positive territory (at least in relative
terms). Arrivals to Southeast Asia grew by
three percent in August, mainly supported
by strong arrivals to Malaysia (+10 percent).
Arrivals to South Asia were down by four
percent on a steep nine percent decline in
arrivals to India. The smaller countries in
the sub-region experienced increased visi-
tor arrivals: Maldives (+1 percent), Nepal
(+5 percent) and Sri Lanka (+34 percent).
Declines in arrivals to the Pacific slowed to
a marginal -0.5 percent year-on-year in Au-
gust, partly helped by some form of stability
in arrivals to Hawaii.
From early 2010, visitors to Singapore’s two
new Integrated Resorts are set for a series
of once in a lifetime experiences with the
launch of a host of new luxury attractions, in-
cluding the world’s only Madagascar theme
park attraction and a unique “floating” Louis
Vuitton store.
Themed after Dreamworks Animation’s Burj Dubai, the world’s tallest building,
blockbuster movie Madagascar: A Crate Ad- will open its top observation deck to the
venture will bring the hit animation movie public later this year, Gulf News has report-
to life with a state-of-the-art indoor boat ride ed. Located at the 124th level of the 160-
featuring animated figures, digital projection storey tower, ‘At The Top’, as the deck will
and other special effects. Southeast Asia’s only be known, will be accessed via a 10-stage
Universal Studio’s theme park will also be journey, starting at the Dubai Mall, taking
home to the world’s first Far Far Away Castle, approximately 45 minutes.
a landmark in the box-office hit Shrek series.

World’s Largest Pyramid – Invisible to the ITB Asia showcases responsible

naked eye
For hundreds of years, the Great
Pyramid of Cholula in Mexico
appeared to be a grassy hill with
a church on top. Luckily, the dirt
and soil gradually eroded away
and the stunned archeologists
made an astonishing discovery in
the early 20th century.
tourism
The excavation works have so far
revealed many of the pyramid’s responsible travel operators.
stairways, platforms, altars and The event is a continuation
more than eight km of tunnels of the responsible tourism
buried under the church. The networking event supported
base of the pyramid was meas- by Messe Berlin during ITB
ured at an impressive 450 by 450 Berlin in March and at the
ITB Asia and partners will South Asia Travel and Tour-
m and its height at 66 m.
hold a responsible tour- ism Exchange (SATTE) in
ism networking event on New Delhi in April. The re-
It is a massive temple which was
22 October. The objective sponsible travel event at ITB
once dedicated to the deity Quet-
is to share experiences and Asia is being co-organised by
zalcoatl. A 50-metre long mul-
strengthen contacts and busi- The Blue Yonder, Travelto-
ticolored mural was also uncov-
ness opportunities between care.com and Wild Asia.
ered by the archeologists; which
environmentally and socially
features life-sized human figures.

16 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

 Travelnews interNATIONAL

Hotel rooms are getting cheaper world wide
According to Hotels.com, average hotel
prices fell by 17 per cent in the first half
of this year compared to 2008. They based
their Hotel Price Index (HPI) on money
paid in 78,000 hotels
across 13,000 places
around the world. As
a source for the HPI
was used informa-
tion about bookings
through the Hotels.
com website.
According to the index, it was the Latin
America that recorded the sharpest decline
in hotel room prices during the first six
Will Maldives become to the first carbon free nation?
The Maldives, the smallest Asian country,
is now planning to tax tourists. President
Mohammed Nasheed wants the island
Muslim country to become the world’s first
carbon neutral nation. It would not change
the fate of the planet that much because
the Maldives have only 309,000 inhabit-
ants. Nevertheless, global warming and the
World Cup to boost
South Africa tourism
months of 2009. The prices here dropped
by 18 per cent also “thanks” to the swine
flu outbreak. North American (US and
Canada) hotel prices dropped by 17 per
cent during the pe-
riod. In Europe the
prices also reacted
to the global crisis
by decreasing 10 per
cent in Q4 2008 and
then by 16 per cent
in first half of 2009.
Prices in the Caribbean decreased only by 2
per cent during the period in question. Last
Next year’s World Cup will help South Af-
but not least hotel prices in Asia dropped
rica promote its tourism industry in new
on average by some 17 per cent.
markets, especially in the Americas where
the nation has little presence, organizing
chief Danny Jordaan said Tuesday. Qualify-
ing nations like Mexico and Honduras will
raise South Africa’s profile in the Americas,
while strong ticket sales in theUnited States
climate change are worrying locals. The
will give the country a new boost among
thing is that it is expected that most of the
American travelers, he told parliament’s
state will end up under water by 2100 be-
tourism committee.
cause of the rising sea levels. The president
would like the country to use only renew-
“Mexico, Honduras, these are all completely
able energy sources instead of fossil fuels.
new markets. The US has bought the high-
est number of tickets, 82000,” he said. “It
The new green tax would be $3 per each
carries great opportunity if we can strength-
tourist a day. It is a tax that definitely would
en tourism in the US market.””In many of
not put off regular visitors of Maldives’ lux-
these (qualifying) countries we do not have
ury resorts. Rich visitors of this island na-
an embassy,” he said. “There is a high inter-
tion are paying up to 15,000 dollars a night
est and it comes with great opportunities.”
so 3 dollars is no big deal for them. Based
on average numbers this tax would bring
$6.3 million annually to the Maldives gov- Kilimanjaro’s ice may dis-
ernment’s coffers.
appear by 2033

Cruising on land? A unique

resort in Turkish Antalya
In Turkey, a unique idea was turned into re-
ality thanks to a generous $50 million invest-
ment – a glamorous hotel resort which in
fact is a magnificent cruise liner.
The hotel is quite a spectacle. It is located
on a beach between the clear waters of the
Mediterranean Sea and the Taurus Moun-
tains, in the region of Antalya. The layout
of the resort resembles a harbor, whereas the
hotel features several smaller villas, shaped
as ships, one of which is a slightly futuristic
copy of the infamous ocean liner the Queen
Elizabeth.
The ice on Africa’s highest mountain could
vanish in 13 to 24 years, a fate also awaiting
the continent’s other glaciers, a study said
Monday. U.S.-based researchers Lonnie
Thompson and colleagues said glaciers
on Kilimanjaro, Tanzania’s snow-capped
volcano which attracts 40,000 visitors a
year, could disappear. “There is a strong
likelihood that the ice fields will disappear
within a decade or two if current condi-
tions persist,” said the study, published by
the Proceedings of the National Academy
of Sciences (PNAS) journal

TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 17

 marketGUIDE

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other wholesome ingredients like - It is made of wholesome ingredients like
honey, fruits and nuts and baked into whole grain oats, fruits and nuts.
crunchy convenient bar. Nature valley - It is a perfect snack that can be enjoyed
was first introduced by general mills in anytime, anywhere.
the US in 1975, and is now enjoyed the - It is a source of fiber, protein and essential
world over as healthy and wholesome nutrients
snack bar full of fiber. - It comes in various delicious flavors; Oats
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crunchy chunks of granola bars.
Whether it’s your hectic office life, your workouts Sitaula group in Nepal is the authorized distributors in
at the gym or your weekend trek, Nature valley is the Nepal.
perfect snack for your active lifestyle.

LG launches new mobile in the market Panasonic TS1

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you connected with your friends, family and music. With the intuitive QWERTY launched its first rugged digital camera: the Lumix TS1.
keypad and 2.8” full touch screen the LG GW525 is designed for messaging The Panasonic Lumix DMC-TS1 is a rugged shockproof, waterproof, and
on-the-move. Some of its features are: dustproof digital camera with a sensor resolution of 12.1 effective megapixels
from a 1/2.33” RGB CCD image sensor. Panasonic has coupled this to an image
- RF Band: GSM 850/900/1800/1900,UMTS 900/2100 stabilized, Leica DC Vario-Elmar branded 4.6x optical zoom lens with a useful
- Display: 2.8-inch full touchscreen TFT display with 240×400 pixels 28-128mm-equivalent wide-angle zoom. Featuring a 28mm wide angle lens,
resolution 4.6 x optical zoom and IA (Intelligent Auto) mode, this versatile camera lets
- Dimensions: 106.5×53x15.9 mm you capture your special moments on the move.
- Slim and Compact design In addition to reinforcing the exterior of the camera with shock-resistant
- Slider QWERTY keyboard material, the FT1 uses folded optics to prevent its lens from taking damage if
- Enhanced messaging and social networking features dropped during use. Combined with its dustproof and waterproof qualities,
- Push e-mail and instant messaging this makes it an ideal camera for the outdoors, in active situations, and for
- 3 megapixel camera casual everyday shooting.

To feature your product send us the details at

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20 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 21

a new hangout in town
Moods
S t u d io lo u n g e
One of the new and notable hangouts in town, Moods
Studio Lounge is fast gaining popularity among
Kathmanduites. Two months after its formal opening,
it still manages to create a buzz around town and is
always full of people looking for a good time in the
evenings.
Located in the Bluebird Mall building in
Thapathali, with ample parking space, it is
an ideal place where you can hang out with
your friends or spend quality time with your
family.
It is for any occasion; be it a small get-together,
corporate events, cocktail parties, private din-
ing or even a birthday bash. Moods Lounge is
not just a lounge; it’s a style of adapting liquor
diplomacy in creative and traditional yet en-
tertaining environment.
Moods has meticulously designed a state-of-
the-art, stylish interior that has no compari-
son. It is a melting pot of sensation, innova-
tion and excellence. The African flavored
décor (designed by Sun City developers), all
22 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
newintown
Nepali exotic artifacts, futuristic lighting and
music, it is the place to relax your senses and
pamper your moods. High-quality large range
of cuisines, reasonable prices and its ami-
able ambience makes Moods a great, trendy
choice. It’s the first lounge in Nepal to install
a system of recording live music that can be
turned into a music album. So next time you
are there don’t forget to try out the Karaoke.
Moods adapts the beverage habit with the
creation of art, skills and professionalism.
With three custom-made bars, Ferdie’s Bar for
cocktails, mocktails and high range of spirits,
Marita’s Bar for wine, cognac and cigars, and
Dave’s Bar for coffee hookah, bartending here
is a fine art of concocting alcoholic and non-
alcoholic beverages to suit different tastes and
some new exotic concoctions. Service here is
affable and personal as they are trained not
just to serve food but to build lasting relation-
ships with the customers.
For all the music lovers, there is live music
from 7pm to 10pm every Thursday, Friday and
Saturday, and with high-tech music system
and laser lights, the DJ nights every Friday &
Saturday from 10pm to the wee hours in the
dawn is truly memorable.
Moods is a true memento for those who enjoy a
cheerful evening with family, friends and associ-
ates. Even if you walk in alone you will never feel
lonely, such is the service Moods delivers. “With
whatever mood you walk into Moods Studio &
Lounge, a new mood is created here!”
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 23
24 NOVEMBER 2009
TIMES
TRAVELGALLERY

IMAGE OF THE MONTH

By rex maharjan View of the mountains from Ghandruk KOdak Easyshare C913 F/3.8 / Ex Time 1/320.

To publish your photographs in this section, submit to info@traveltimes-mag.com with photo and camera details.
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 25
 TRAVELOGUE

Walking
On Thin Ice
The whipping winds reason otherwise but the views My first night in Ngadj brought to me, the reality of
what true Himalayan cold feels. During the day the
push you on. With water bottles frozen and no sun was hot and even in shorts and a t-shirt, I still
toilet paper, a trekker stubbornly climbs on and is sweated like a beast of burden. Yet as soon as that
rewarded at 5415 meters. bright sun dipped behind the ice capped mountains
it became eerily cold. I had brought only one pair
of thin quick dry pants, three shirts, one fleece, one
windbreaker, a scarf, three pairs of socks and three
pairs of underwear. This was not good.
Text by Dave Matthews
I wasn’t expecting the terrific views to start so soon.
But a bright sun over a wind-swept mountain-scape
soon put that right. By Jagat, we passed a truly mas-
sive pass where people were hammering away on the
rock face with chisels and hammers in an effort to
construct a road. It felt like a scene from an ancient
explorer movie as we walked the four foot wide pass,
rocks tumbling down into the raging aqua marine
coloured river several thousand feet below us. We

26 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

made it to Chamje that evening with the
air rapidly cooling and I realised how terri-
ble a squat toilet can be without foot wear.
In just a single day’s walking, ice capped
mountains started to appear larger and
more majestic as we continued our for-
ested ascent. We trudged up high narrow
ledge passes leading to Timang Besi. The
sun was setting and the mountains were
showing off their pink shades of explosive
colours. We sat ourselves into the smoke
filled kitchen of our hotel for warmth. The
local women were making buff momo, a
sort of steamed or fried pastry dumpling
with meat, for a celebration. I then remem-
bered it was New Year’s Eve. I decided to
try Yak Cheese momo as a treat and looked
on as the Himalayas treated us to a mini
light show.
The mornings often felt the coldest; too
cold for an essential squat position, though
apple pancakes beforehand help! For the
first time along the trek, it was obvious
there were less people around. We were
also walking across frozen ground into a
snowy fantasy land. Wonderful frozen wa-
terfalls soon became a regular occurrence
as did streams frozen in time. At 3000 me-
ters, Bhratang was a ghost town of a place
with a bitter, cold wind whipping though
it. A solitary crow cawed at us over lunch
and Narayan took it as a bad omen. Dark
clouds were moving in. The snow was com-
ing. We only had days to make it to the top.
My head was aching slightly due to the
cold, though subconsciously I suspected
worse. What also did not feel good was that
there was no more toilet paper available. So
I went the Nepalese way of the left hand
and a bucket of water. I can confirm that
at 6 am, water is frozen solid and cleaning
yourself with ice is a strange and not a very
enjoyable experience!
By the time we reached Manang for our
two days acclimatisation, my head was a
little light and achy. Yet the spectacular
views overcame any ill feeling. Barren yak
filled landscapes surrounded us as two lone
travellers made their way past the odd lone
stupa and prayer flag towards the small vil-
lage. We detoured first though, heading
over a few rocky paths against the harsh
icy wind until we found the giant circle of
frozen water. My first frozen lake and gla-
cier! Steam drifted up from the lake in the
distance, from the bright afternoon sun. To
the left was a semi frozen stream that had
an incredible light blue florescent colour
to it. I couldn’t resist taking a mouthful
to drink, imagining that this glacier water
was thousands of years old. At first a little
nervous about walking on frozen water,
then tepidly venturing further out onto the
cracking shiny surface, I stared down in
wonder as tiny jagged lines loudly cracked
In just a single day’s walking, ice capped mountains
started to appear larger and more majestic as we
continued our forested ascent.
alive under my weight near the edge. I was
like a child on the ice.
Manang was also where we met a few Ko-
reans also trying to beat the snow to the
top, one of whom was in bad shape. Al-
titude sickness had hit him hard. He was
pale, sweaty and was throwing up every half
hour. You would think this would serve as a
warning to anyone. But with only one night
in Manang, we headed off to the summit
as Narayan was convinced it was already
snowing up there. By now, we were truly
in the middle of the Himalayas. Frozen
waterfalls, streams and mountains were all
around us by the time we hit Yak Kharka
(4018m). I had a full on headache that Pa-
racetamol did nothing for. I headed to bed
early. By 1 am, I awoke to turn over in bed.
Cold air is hard to sleep through. I pulled
the sleeping bag hood over my head and
tried to get back to sleep under my warm
breath. Something was wrong though... no
air!
I thought the sleeping bag covering my
head was the problem so I pulled it back. I
inhaled deeply. No air. I gasped, sucking in
empty coldness. I began breathing rapidly,
shock was setting in fast and my heart start-
ed beating hard. I sat up, my body break-
ing out in a hot sweat of panic as I tried to
breathe in as deeply as possible. A little air
crept in, but it was not enough. My head
started to spin a little as my mind raced
and heart thumped loudly. It was the alti-
tude, I had to get down. I sucked in deeply
and drew what little air I could as I pulled
my pants on and threw my arms into the
fleece. As I bent over to grab my boots I felt
a little more air enter my chest. I started to
catch more gasps of icy air. Making my way
to the door I opened it and caught a blast
of the freezing air and felt it fill my ach-
ing lungs. Breathing as deeply as possible
I headed downstairs. I was breathing again.
Back in my room a little later, I looked at
the barometer: - 5.5 degrees. I was recover-
ing, but my heart was still pounding. I de-
cided to get back into bed, this time with
my fleece on. I felt my heart continuing to
pound. I couldn’t get back to sleep for fear
of it happening again. My mind raced to
distract myself from what had happened, or
what might happen again.
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 27

It had been a cold sleepless night. Looking
at the map it seemed like Thorung high
camp was only three hours away. Without a
second day acclimatising at Manang, I felt
it better to stay here. But the clouds were
now moving faster though the brilliant blue
sky. My headache had lessened and I had a
choice to make. If we stayed and it snowed
we could go no further as the pass would
be blocked for weeks. It was my choice, so
we moved on.
The landscape was about as barren as it
could get. Yet the sky was an incredible viv-
id blue colour and the snow capped moun-
tains were postcard perfect. We passed
by another landslide area and were pum-
melled by giant wild Nepalese sheep which
sent pebbles firing down the rocky slope at
us as we approached Thorung Phedi. We
ate daal bhat again at high camp. My head
pounded from the smell of kerosene. Out-
side, the wind was howling in the barren
Martian terrain. I wrapped myself up with
everything I had.
We opened the double doors into the icy
high speed wind and plunged ourselves
upwards to the high camp at 4800 meters.
It took us an hour 45 minutes to climb the
mountain pass in the fierce freezing wind.
We trudged through loose rocks, passed
frozen water springs - its frozen icicles bent
forward in little arrows from the high freez-
ing winds. It was a silent ascent marked
only by the wind’s howl and slipping rocks.
Once inside the sunlit guest house, the
temp was 0.1 degrees. Unfortunately the sun
was about to disappear behind the moun-
tains and by 7 pm it was -5 degrees. My
28 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
alarm went off at 4.45 am. The barom-
eter measured -7.5 degrees in the room.
I packed up everything and headed out
into the dark night. The stars were shining
so brightly, yet my attempts to photograph
them failed as my hands were shaking so
much from the cold freezing wind that was
whipping around outside.
By 5.30 we were off. Narayan took the lead
using my head torch. Snow covered the
whole area as we crunched upwards into
the darkness. Large areas were covered in
The landscape was about as barren as you could get.
Yet the sky was an incredible vivid blue colour and the
snow capped mountains were postcard perfect.
thick ice making it difficult to traverse the
steep slopes in the darkness. Worse still, the
wind was blowing again and it bit into me
like nothing I had felt before. I was shiver-
ing and needed to go faster to stay warm
so I over took Narayan and headed up the
barren snow mountain alone. My barom-
eter measured -15 degrees. Dawn began to
appear, and the mountains glistened like a
spectacular icy dreamscape. I was hoping
the sun’s rays would be warm, instead they
brought with them even stronger freezing
winds. My barometer faded in at -20 de-
grees. We were at 5200m.
I trudged on in the snow, tugging heavily
at my scarf to keep the wind out. Parched
from the freezing air, I stopped to take a
drink. My first water bottle was frozen sol-
id. I scrambled with numb fingers for my
other bottle only to find it too was near fro-
zen solid. With only a cup full of water left
I felt the bottle crunch against my beard
and realised it had formed icicles and had
frozen. I forced a smile at the thought. I
trudged forward, scrambling over ice, rocks
and snow. Mucus was freezing in my nose
as I blew it out in heavy clumps. My head
felt drunk from the altitude. I lost the path.
Ahead I saw some stone pillars used as re-
ligious markers. I stumbled through some
ice and fell into deep snow on the way up.
This had to be it. I fumbled clumsily at
my barometer which first flashed -20 then
-23, then nothing. It was frozen. I looked
around the white, snow covered landscape,
the beauty of its desolation bypassing my
frozen brain as I searched for a path in the
icy tundra. Narayan called up to me from
below, he had caught up. I followed him
along the newly found trail.
My beard crunched as I wiped frozen saliva
from my mouth as we ascended the final
part of the trail. Prayer flags fluttered in the
wind around a small cabin. A large green
and yellow sign board wrote “Congratu-
lations for reaching the Pass. Do come
again!” I took an altitude reading; 17120 feet
or 5415 meters. We shook hands in the bit-
ter wind and posed for photographs.
I felt as though I had just survived one of
the hardest things I ever had to accomplish.
Many cross this pass throughout the year.
Few also cross the pass at the coldest time
of the year. Fewer still do it in thin African
combats and only three layers with no extra
acclimatisation days. Stupid or pushing the
limits of oneself, either way; I had made it.
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 29
 COVERSTORY

Trekking
in Nepal
Where, When & Why
Text by Utsav Shakya
Photo Courtesy Explore Himalaya, Yeti
Travels and Mr. Nabin Subedi

30 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

 The Joys of Ah! The joys of trekking! Books
could be written about the
a Good Trek sheer joy of not just conquering
a hilltop, but more importantly
about the simple pleasures that
trekking up a hill offers. There is
a small list of things in life that
can feel as wholesome as a good
trekking experience. A trek brings
you closer to nature, asking you
to tread gently, noticing every
rock, pebble and twig. Your body
settles to a comfortable rhythm,
your lungs enjoying the crisp air,
your muscles slowly familiarizing
with new terrain.
A trek gives you time to reflect, the
serenity of the hills helping you to
rethink decisions, the panoramic
views widening your own
perspectives. Your very soul is re-
energized. Away from the mundane
of every day, it is replenished with
every new sight, smell and feeling.
Put bluntly, trekking is the good life.
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 31
 But the question arises, why trek in Nepal? There are mountains worth climbing everywhere in the world and all of them would have great views
to offer once you get to a certain height. Most mountains will surely offer a host of flora and fauna as well. So why not trek up a hill that is closer
to home instead of flying all the way to the other side of the world, to Nepal despite warnings of political instability? And even though most
foreigners pronounce the name of the country wrong, often saying ‘Nepaul’ instead of Nepal, those who have been here will come back again
and again. But for first timers, the answer really is not in a sentence but rather spread out all over the many hills and mountains of this charmed
country.
The Answers
Bound by the high mountains of China to
the North and the low plains of India to the
South, Nepal is a geographic wonder. Similar
in size to Cuba (800km long, 200km wide),
Nepal has over 28,000 feet of altitude change
within ninety miles. The terrain changes
longitudinally from glaciers on the northern
Tibetan border to the flat, greens of the Terai
in the south, barely 150m above sea level.
The country does not ascend gradually from
the plains. Rather, it rises in several chains of
hills that lie in an east-west direction, finally
terminating in the highest mountains of the
Himalaya, beyond which is the 5000m-high
plateau of the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR).
With eight of the world’s fourteen highest
peaks, the Himalayas give Nepal the highest
and densest collection of mountains in the
world. Not only this but recent measurements
show that the mountains are growing!
Complementing the world’s highest peak, Mt.
Everest, Nepal also has the world’s deepest
gorge, the Kali Gandaki. The system of valleys
and rivers running through the Himalayas
provides support to the spring melt from high
peaks and the summer monsoon. One only
needs to imagine the run off of snow from
the world’s highest mountains to understand
the opportunities awaiting the adventurer on
Nepal’s wild rivers. Although the Himalayas
may be Nepal’s most known geography, they
are equally challenged in beauty and
grandeur by the lowland Terai
along Nepal’s southern
border.
With eight of the world’s fourteen highest
peaks, the Himalayas give Nepal the highest and
densest collection of mountains in the world.
Not only this but recent measurements show
that the mountains are growing!
32 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
Here along the border with India, travelers
can experience safaris through jungles and
marshes home to over twenty endangered
species. In Nepal’s Terai, it is not that
uncommon to hear news of man-eating tigers
or of rogue elephant herds trampling villagers
and houses!
Trekking in Nepal’s mountains is also a treat
for bird watching enthusiasts with more than
800 species of birds known to exist here
- more birds than in Canada and the USA
combined or nearly 10% of the world’s bird
species!
Nepal’s dramatic array of geography gives
rise to one of the world’s most dynamic range
of climates with tropical jungle conditions to
the South and ice capped mountains in the
North. Within this range of climates, Nepal
encompasses four seasons- autumn, winter,
spring and monsoon. With each season
comes different opportunities. During the
winter, the high mountains are buried in heavy
snow while the lower altitudes are perfect
for exploration. With spring and the melting
of snow, wildflowers abound abundantly
throughout the hills and mountains painting
the hillsides in vibrant arrays of color. Although
the monsoon season blankets most of Nepal
with rain from June till August, it gives rise to
beautiful, crisp weather in the fall which is the
optimal time for trekking in the Himalayas.
However, the Nepalese mountains unlike
most trekking destinations are open year
round. Trekking is possible any time of year
depending on where you are going. The
popular seasons are spring and autumn.
During winter, trekking is possible at lower
altitudes. During the monsoon season, you
can trek in the rain shadow areas north of
the Himalaya like Mustang, Upper Manang
(Annapurna region) and Dolpo. These places
are out of reach of the rain clouds because of
the high mountains and are unaffected by the
monsoons. The best part about trekking in this
season is that the routes are less crowded and
if you happen to be a keen amateur-botanist,
you will revel in lush vegetation as meadows
bloom in full swing.
A lot of trekking companies today have also
started to add a very important dimension to
most trekking experiences. Whereas most
trekkers will come back with stories of the
places they reached and the sights they saw
there, trekking in Nepal also has a rich cultural
element attached to it. In the villages of the
country through which the trails offer lead,
trekkers will be able to experience firsthand,
the culture, traditions, religious bent and
hospitality of the Nepalese people.
But precisely because of this diversity in
geography as well as the luxury of choice,
trekkers often have a hard time figuring out
where to go, for what reasons and whether
the trip will meet their, by now much hyped
expectations. By breaking down some of
the country’s more popular trekking routes,
making this decision could be more of an
informed choice than a random pick.
 The Everest Experience
The idea of trekking in the lap of Mount Everest, the roof of the world, brings trekkers from all over the world to Nepal.
However, a lot of them come with the view that there is one amazing trail to be covered and great views to see. This
then leads to a general confusion upon arrival when it is learnt that there are actually a number of amazing trails in this
area, all of them offering an amazing, picture perfect trekking experience. The most popular three trails in this area do
justice to giving you a complete Everest experience.

1 Everest Base Camp (EBC) Trek

1

1. A breathtaking view of Mt. Everest

2. Sherpa Villages in Namche
3. A Tibetan Monastery in the area

The Everest Base Camp trek is arguably the
most famous trekking route in the world
and provides you with opportunities to take
in some truly amazing views from the roof
of the world. The trek also gives an insight
into the lives and culture of the Sherpa
people who are local to the area and close-
ly linked to the Tibetans on the other side
of the summit. The view of the sunrise on
the snow capped peaks above the Khumbu
Glacier is an unforgettable sight from the
summit of Kala Patthar. An EBC trek re-
quires physical fitness as it demands some
challenging climbs on the trail. A lot of the
trail has well graded paths; however there
are pretty tough sections along the Khum-
bu glacier where utmost care is required.
Most trekkers fly to Lukla from the capital;
the adventure beginning even before you
land as the plane takes you right between
hills and lands on a unique inclined land-
ing strip. Most trekkers spend several days
trekking through Sherpa villages, a few
even choose to stay in locals’ homes over know before you go
traditional lodging facilities. While there,
Places covered by the trip
trekkers can visit Buddhist monasteries Lukla, Namche, Tyangbuche, Chhukung,
with distant views of Everest and the neigh- Kala Patthar, Everest Base Camp
boring Ama Dablam, considered by many
to be among the most beautiful mountains Min/Max Altitude
2840 m/5545m
in Nepal. Namche Bazaar, the bustling
market town in the heart of Solukhumbu Trekking Grade
district and Pheriche, a cluster of houses set Moderate to Fairly Strenuos
among the high summer grazing pastures Trek Duration
of the region are the most popular stops. Around 16 days
Plenty time is allocated on most trekker’s
Highlights of the trip
itineraries for acclimatization giving trek- Sherpa museum in Namche Bazaar/
kers the opportunity to explore the area. Panoramic view from Syanbu-che/Sherpa
Those who have fully acclimatized trek to culture in Khumjung village/Tyangboche
the Everest Base Camp but the highlight for Monastery/Great views from Kalapathhar
most will be the awe-inspiring view which and Khumbu ice fall from Everest Base
unfolds from the summit of Kala Patthar - Camp
the chaotic ice sculptures of the Khumbu
Glacier, Nuptse and the south-west face of
Everest itself.

TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 33

2 Gokyo Ri Trek
A popular trekking trail that uses alternate
routes in the same area, the Gokyo Ri trek
features the unbelievable scenery of the re-
mote Gokyo Valley as well as complimen-
tary views of turquoise lakes, huge glaciers,
and stunning mountain vistas that include
Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu -
four of the eight highest peaks on earth.
The 360-degree view from Gokyo Ridge is
lauded as the best in the Khumbu area.
The beginning of this trek is the same as
the trail to Everest Base Camp. Most trek-
king agencies will schedule two nights in
the village of Namche Bazaar to acclima-
tize. Namche is considered the trading
center for the Khumbu region, and people
walk from as far away as Tibet Saturdays to
sell their wares here. This is also the hub
onto which each trail converges, so yaks
and people compete for space in this am-
phitheater style city.
34 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
1
1.
2.
View of Gokyo Lake from Gokyo Ri
Everest from Gokyo Ri
3. The long ridge between Cho Oyu and Gyachung
Kang (7952m) from the fourth Gokyo Lake.
4. Panaromic View of Gokyo Ri
2
After visiting Namche, the trail detours
from the usual Everest trail and follows the
know before you go
river that originates from the Ngozumpa
glacier. The next stop for most tour opera- Places covered by the trip
tors is in the village of Machhermo for a Lukla, Namche, Tyangbuche, Chhukung,
chance to rest or hike up Machhermo Ri. Kala Pathhar, Everest Base Camp
Trekkers will then finally move on to Go- Min/Max Altitude
kyo Valley. A cluster of the most scenic co- 2840m/5383m
balt blue lakes accompanies trekkers on the
Trekking Grade
3-hour hike to Gokyo Village. The village
Moderate
is located at the foot of Gokyo Ri (18,300
ft) - a huge black mound of rock and dirt. Trek Duration
The following day’s itinerary takes you on Around 14 days
a 3-hour trek to the summit of this black, Highlights of the trip
rocky mound to witness the 360-degree Hi- Explore Sherpa museum in Namche
malayan view offered only from this vantage Bazaar/ Panoramic view from Syanbuche/
point. The Himalayas here stand like giants Experience Sherpa culture in Khumjung
guarding the border into Tibet. The view village/Ascend Gokyo Ri/Grand view of
Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Nuptse and
from Gokyo Ri offers you much more than
Ama dablam
just Mount Everest, with magnificent views
of many of the other 8000-meter peaks.
3 Everest Jiri Trek
Everest Jiri Trek, although relatively easy
compared to some of the other treks in the
area, takes you high up along the trail to
Tengboche Monastery (3850m). Although
short, the trek is no less scenic, offering su-
perb views of the world’s highest peaks, in-
cluding Everest, Lhotse, Thamserku, Ama
Dablam and many other. Also because
most trekkers go through Lukla, the initial
days on the trek are less crowded and thus
even more charming.
Instead of the usual flight to Lukla to access
the district, the Everest Jiri trail starts with
a six hour drive to Jiri (1905 meters). From
here it is a gradual ascent up to Phakding
at 2610 meters going through Shivalaya,
Bhandar, Sete, Junbensi, Taksindo, Khari
Khola and Payu on the way there. At the
rate of about five to six hours every day, get-
ting to Phakding from Jiri should take one
about eight days. It’s another six hour trek
to Namche Bazaar at an altitude of 3535
meters from Phakding. Namche Bazaar
is usually where trekkers take a day off to
1
1. The trail gets crowded in the season
2. Tengboche Monastery on the trail
3. Rushing rivers fed vy the melting snow
4. Scenic views of Everest Base Camp
2
acclimatize to the now thinning air. Also
known as the gateway to Everest, the bazaar
offers trekkers the first proper view of the know before you go
same. There is also a museum here which Places covered by the trip
trekkers can visit to better understand the Lukla, Namche, Tyangbuche, Chhukung,
place and the people who inhabit it. From Kala Pathhar, Everest Base Camp
here it is the conventional trail up to Gor-
Min/Max Altitude
ak Shep again that will take most trekkers
2840m/5545m
five days with a day of acclimatization in
Dingboche. After going to Everest Base Trekking Grade
Camp and back, most trekkers trek up to Fairly Strenuous
Kala Patthar from where the views of the Trek Duration
entire range are the best and stay the night Around 26 days
at Zongla and then descend thereafter to Highlights of the trip
Thagna and then finally to Gokyo (4790 Explore the Sherpa museum in Namche
m), setting up camp for at least two days Bazaar/Panoramic view from Syanbuche/
here. The climb to Gokyo Ri (5483 m) is Experience Sherpa culture in Khumjung
surely one of the highlights of this trip with village/ Ascend Gokyo Ri with grand view
the aforementioned breathtaking views of of Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Nuptse and
the Ngozumpa glacier , the whole Khum- Ama dablam
bu Himalayas - Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse,
Makalu (8481m), Cho Oyu (8153m) and
Gychung Kang (7922m). The return trail is
through Namche Bazaar to Lukla.
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 35
 COVERSTORY

The Annapurna Trails

Whereas the Everest region boasts of views from an altitude, attracting tourists even with its branding as the area to trek in,
the Annapurna region pulls in equal if not more traffic from both domestic and international amateur trekkers. Because it is
more accessible from the capital, a lot of trekkers opt for this region which offers everything from seriously tough terrain to
easy trekking trails that offer idyllic village stays and panoramic views at a day’s trekking distance from scenic Pokhara valley.
The Annapurna region also offers the option of taking one of many trails to explore this area. These three trails summarize the
Annapurna region well, letting you take in the views as well as a bit of culture and tradition on your trek.

1 Annapurna Circuit Trek

1
1. The lush lap of Annapurna
2. Poonhill
3. Thorong La Pass
4. Mt. Manaslu

know before you go

Annapurna region is best described as the
most happening trekking destination of
Nepal. The trek is highly recommended by
all trekkers as a spectacular trekking route
in the Annapurna region since it opened to
foreign trekkers in 1977. This three weeks
trek starts right from Besishahar and goes
along the Marshyangdi River, with great
views of Manashlu and Himal Chuli to
the east. The trail also leads you through
villages inhabited by a wide diversity of
people from different ethnic groups, all
surrounded by the majestic Himalayas on
most sides. As the trail continues to the
north of the main Himalayan range on to
the high and dry Tibetan Plateau, the scen-
ery only gets better.
The highest point of the trek is Thorung La
pass at the top of the valley at 5416 meters.
Due to the difficulties of crossing the pass,
the circuit is usually traversed in a coun-
ter clockwise direction. Traveling clock-
wise, the longer ascent and short descent
from the west to the east is too much for
most trekkers to manage in a single day.
The crossing of the Thorung La pass - sur-
rounded by some of the most magnificent
mountains - is in itself a very challenging
ascent.
Places covered by the trip
Besishar, Manang, Throung La Pass,
Muktinath, Tatopani (natural hotspring),
Ghorepani Poonhill, Ghaundrung village,
Pokhara
Min/Max Altitude
830m/5316m
Trekking Grade
Moderate and Fairly Strenuous
Trek Duration
Around 21 days
Highlights of the trip
The high points of the trek entails
crossing of the 5414m high Throng Pass,
from the arid valley of the upper Manang,
home of Tibetan Buddhists, down to
the Hindu pilgrimage site of Muktinath,
and the Kali Gandaki valley, the world’s
deepest river gorge, before heading
down to Pokhara. Besides the mountain
views, there are a variety of mountain
communities of the Gurung, Manangi and
Thakali people that offer a rich cultural
experience. Poon hill, after crossing
Ghorepani, is another popular site, for
the views on offer as well for star gazing.

36 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

2 Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) Trek
Annapurna base camp trek is another very
popular trekking trail. The principal peaks of
the western portion of the great Annapurna
Himal, including Hiunchuli, Annapurna
South, Fang, Annapurna, Ganagapurna,
Annapurna 3 and Machhapuchhare, are ar-
ranged almost precisely in a circle about 10
miles in diameter with a deep glacier-covered
1
amphitheater at the center. From this glacier
basin, known as the Annapurna Sanctuary,
the Modi Khola (river) drives its way south in
a narrow gorge which is 12,000 ft. at its deep-
est point. Further south, the gorge opens up
into a wide and fertile valley, domain of the
Gurung community. The middle and upper
portions of the Modi Khola offer some of the
know before you go
Places covered by the trip
Pokhara, Ghorepani, Poonhill,
Machhapuchhre Base Camp, Annapurna
Base Camp, Ghaundrung village
Min/Max Altitude
910m/4090m
Trekking Grade
Moderate
Trek Duration
Around 14 days
Highlights of the trip
Terraced farmland above Pokhara/Inner
sanctuary of Annapurna/ Panoramic
views of ten peaks over 6000m/Views
of Dhaulagiri and the Kali Gandaki from
Poon Hill/Scenic villages and farmland
at Ghandruk set against the panorama
of high peaks/Natural hot spring at
Jhinudanda.
best short trekking routes in Nepal. The val-
ley is located conveniently so that treks into
the Kali Gandaki in the west can be com-
bined with the ABC trek easily. In spite of the
great heights of the surrounding peaks and
ice walls, the valley floor between 12,000 and
14,000 ft. can provide comfortable camping
spots in good weather.
1. The amazing view of Annapurna from Base Camp
2. Mt. Dhaulagiri from Ghandruk
3. Mt. Machhapuchhre from Ghandruk
4. Northwest face of Annapurna
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 37
3 Annapurna Jomsom Muktinath Trek
The Jomsom Muktinath area is to the
north of Pokhara. Nepal’s spectacular di-
versity appears at its finest here. The deep
valleys and high mountains encircling the
giant Annapurna, embraces a variety of cli-
mates, from subtropical jungles to high and
dry landscapes that resemble the Tibetan
Plateau. This is the most popular trekking
region in Nepal, attracting over 75% of
all trekkers. It’s also among the tamest ar-
eas, with excellent lodges lining the main
routes. Finding Nepal beneath the flood
of trekkers can be difficult, but the scen-
ery and culture are top-notch, and even if
one is to avoid the peak-season crush, the
weather is mostly fine, as are the views.
The views of the mountains are spectacular
with the route actually crossing to the other
side of the main Himalayan range for some
unusual views of the northern flanks.
Because the area is pretty dry even in the
monsoon season, a lot of people opt to
go to the Hindu pilgrimage site of Mukti-
38 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
nath with its line of 108 water spouts dur-
ing the off seasons. Bathing under these
bull shaped spouts supposedly washes off
pilgrims’ sins. The place is sacred to both
Hindus and Buddhists and is located at an
altitude of 3710 meters at the foot of the
Thorung La Pass. Tibetan Buddhist texts
state that Guru Rinpoche, also known as
Padmasambhava, the founder of Tibetan
Buddhism once meditated at Muktinath
on his way to Tibet. Also, the waterway
downstream from Muktinath along the
Kali Gandaki River is the source of all silas
or shaligrams that are required to establish
a temple of Vishnu anywhere in the world.
This is the most
popular trekking
region in Nepal,
attracting over 75% of
all trekkers.
1
know before you go
Places covered by the trip
Pokhara, Jomsom, Muktinath, Tatopani/
Ghorepani/ Poon hill/ Ghaundrung village
Min/Max Altitude
910m/3802m
Trekking Grade
Moderate
Trek Duration
Around 14 days
Highlights of the trip
Explore beautiful Kagbeni village/
Pilgrimage town of Muktinath/View of
Dhawalagiri Ice flow - world’s deepest
gorge/ Kaligandaki valley/ Natural hot
spring at Tatopani/ Sunrise view from
Poon Hill
1. Village of Kagbeni
2. Kali Gandaki Gorge
3. Muktinath Temple, holy pilgrimage for Hindus and
Buddhists
4. Sunrise view of Mt. Dhaulagiri from Poon Hill
 The LANGTANG TRAILS
Langtang valley trekking is one of the most popular trekking routes in the Langtang region offering superb Himalayan
views of Mount Lantang Lirung, Ganesh Himal, Naya kanga, Gyachungkhang, Yala peak, Tibetan Himal and Annapurna
Himalaya range. Also on offer are sightings of wild animals such as leopards, pandas, ghoral , tharal, mountain thar,
monkeys, musk deer and birds namely pheasants (Nepal’s national bird), longtail, sparrows and the Himalayan dove.
Langtang valley trekking gives you the opportunity to get right in among the Himalayan peaks and to get off-the-beaten-
track, walking through some fascinatingly remote and relatively unpopulated areas. It also passes through changing
climates and offers trekkers an exceptional diversity of scenery and culture. Altitudes of 4984m (Tsesku Ri) are reached,
and a reasonable level of physical fitness is necessary to comfortably complete Langtang valley trek.
The trekking starts with an overland journey to Dunche, the main trading post of the area. From here, it takes five days
to trek up through this beautiful alpine valley to Kyangjin where most trekkers rest for a day, exploring and observing
the mountains and the glacier systems. The treks in the Langtang valley and the famed Gosaikunda trail are most
popular amongst amateur and professional trekkers.

1 Langtang Valley Trek

1

1. Langtang Range
2. Kyangin Gompa

know before you go

The trek starts from the lower Langtang
Valley and moves up through its forests, nu-
merous villages and farmlands of its people,
many of whom are of Tibetan origin. Once
an important trading route with Tibet, this
influence is reflected in the character of the
villages and the people here. A part of the
trek takes trekkers through the National Park
here, and though wildlife is never easy to spot
in forest settings, sightings of some rare birds
and animals cannot be ruled out. Among
those found in the park are monkeys, musk
deer, pika and the national bird of Nepal, the
colorful danphe.
Places covered by the trip
Dhunche/ Lama Hotel/ Langtang Village/
Kyanjin Gompa
Min/Max Altitude
1950m/5122m
From Langtang village, the trail continues
to Kyangjin Gompa (3,740 m), site of the Trekking Grade
popular Yala cheese factory. There is a STOL Moderate to Fairly Strenuous
airstrip at Chhaldang, a short distance east of Trek Duration
Kyangjin. Visits to the cheese factory, perhaps Around 8 days
the cheese factory at the highest altitude, and Highlights of the trip
the small lakes beyond Yala are worthwhile. Tibetan village in Langtang/Amazing
Yala can be reached within half a day from views of Langtang Ri and Ganesh Himal/
Kyangjin Gompa. From this gompa, a con- Ascend Chorkari Ri (5050m)/Panoramic
tinued trek to the pastures of Langsisa (4084 view of 10 peaks that are over 6000m/
m) provides great views of numerous glaciers. Spectacular views of the ice fluted
There are also some huts in Langsisa that can Gyanghempo/Crossing the Ganjala Pass
(5122m)/ Helambu valley.
be reached within a day’s walk from Kyangjin
Gompa.

TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 39

2 Langtang Gosaikunda Trek
The Langtang Gosaikunda trek combines
the remote and spectacular valley of Lang-
tang, with the high mountain lakes at Gos-
ainkunda. Trekkers are encouraged to trek
to the Langtang National Park and then to
the end of the valley to view the wonder-
ful mountains views. Following the Trisuli
River north out of Kathmandu, trails go
through Trisuli Bazaar and Dhunche to
Syabrubensi, a Sherpa village located at the
very edge of the park. The trail then swings
east into the Langtang valley, crossing the
river several times as the paths moves along
a gorge-like, lower section of the valley.
Oak and rhododendron forests line the trek
as well as views of cross glacial moraine on
2 3
40 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
the way to Tamang villages here.
A little further up the valley is Kyangin
Gompa, where most trekkers stay over-
night. The yak cheese tasting here is quite
popular too. The trail passes through Nu-
bamatang, nestled in a hidden valley, on
the way up for a view of the glaciers, which
mark the gateway into Tibet. Backtracking,
trekkers travel through Syabru and Sing
Gompa to a high plateau, where the sacred
lake Gosainkunda is located. Crossing the
Laurebena Pass (4610m) and continuing
south, the trail leads away from the Lang-
tang region behind us, and through the
Helambu valley into Gul Bhanjyang.
1. Gosainkunda: Holy site for Pilgrimage
2. Langsisha from the trail
3. Chhorten on a trail and Mt. Langtang on
know before you go
Places covered by the trip
Dhunche, Lama Hotel, Langtang Village,
Kyanjin Gompa, Gosaikunda, Singompa,
Lauribinayak Pass, Chisopani, Sundarijal
Min/Max Altitude
1950m/5122m
Trekking Grade
Moderate to Fairly Strenuous
Trek Duration
Around 14 days
Highlights of the trip
Tibetan village at Langtang, Amazing
views of Langtang Ri/Ganesh Himal/
Lang Sisa/Ascent of Chorkari Ri (5050m)/
Panoramic views of 10 peaks over
6000m/ Spectacular views of the
ice fluted Gyanghempo/Crossing the
Ganjala Pass at 5122m/Walk through the
Helambu valley
background
When to go
The best season for treks in Nepal is
from September to early December as
well as the post winter trekking season
from mid-February to the first week of
June. The winter season from Septem-
ber to early December is an ideal time
for the best mountain views. The days
are typically sunny and clear with mod-
erate temperatures and the evenings are
usually quite cold. On most days, trek-
kers can even get by in just t-shirts and
shorts. Warm clothes that can field the
Himalayan cold are an absolute neces-
sity for the mornings, evenings and the
nights.
From the middle of February until
the first part of June, temperatures get
warmer by10° -15° warmer than in the
Packing for Trekking
The key words here are light and mul-
tipurpose. Most trekkers make a huge
checklist of essentials and pack in way
too much than they need to. This only
adds to the weight that they will need
fall. The mornings are bright and clear
with the air slowly becoming hazier as
the day progresses. The rhododendron
forests in springtime are spectacular,
with color displays that are unique to
this area. June is warm and green with
fewer people, the sense of solitude
much greater than other seasons.
However, the days from July to August
lie in the Monsoon period in Nepal.
Sudden rainfall that can last for a week
is normal. The good news however is
that trekking in rain shadow areas such
as Mustang, Rara, Dolpo, Annapurna
circuit, Langtang valley, Everest base
camp and Gokyo valley respectively
make for great alternatives.
to carry with them up the mountain. A
lot of essentials are available on the trail
itself with shops catering specifically to
trekkers. A condensed checklist like this
one should be more than necessary.
Head Gear
• Sun hat
• Scarf
• Warm fleece hat
• Sunglasses with UV protection
Clothing
• T-shirts x 2
• Light & expedition weight full body
thermals
• Fleece jacket or pullover
• Waterproof jacket
• Down vest and/or jacket
• Underwear x 4
• Hiking shorts (2)
• Lightweight hiking long pants
• Lightweight gloves
• Thin, lightweight inner sock liners (2)
• Thick, warm wool hiking socks (3)
• Worn in hiking boots and spare laces
Accessories
• Sleeping bag rated to 0 degrees F
• Headlamp w/ spare bulbs and batteries
• Duffle bag and small lock
• Basic First Aid Kit
• Large plastic bags
• Daypack (approx. 2500 to 3000 c.i.)
• Thermarest sleeping pad
• One liter water bottles x 2
• Toiletries
• Small quick drying towels
• Trekking poles (optional)
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 41

Shall We Trek?
Too often we get caught up with staying warm and safe when we head into the hills.
But today’s clotheslines aimed at trekkers combine the smart with the safe.
Rucksack
55+10 lts. Trekking rucksack with
flash system
100% water proof backpack. Perfect
fit due to the individually adjustable
Twist2Fit hipbelt and easy to adjust
torso length with softly padded
shoulder straps.
Rs. 16,350
Sleeping bag
Lightweight 3-season down
sleeping bag featuring body
contoured mummy design and an
extra protection thermal collar for
optimal temperature regulation.
Water proof and breathable fiber
for an excellent inner microclimate.
Rs. 25,000
Mattress
Combined air mattress and self-
inflating ground pad with 2 airbags.
Light weight and comfortable.
Rs 12,950
Tent
Optimally ventilated, it also offers
“foolproof” pitching. The durable
flysheet is made from weather-
proof, PU-coated polyester,
holding up well under heavy rains,
and a cleverly devised ventilation
system for comfortable sleeping
climate.
Rs. 27,500
Trekking Kits Courtesy: VAUDE, Lazimpat, Kathmandu Tel.: 4445447
42 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
TREKIT
Cap
A cap with distinct glow in the dark
inserts made from fluorescent fabric
for additional safety. Adjustable -
mesh inserts for ventilation – made
up of synthetic nylon.
Rs: 2,250
Meal Kit
6 pieces set it comes with two split
free cup and a combo set.
Rs. 2,320
Jacket
The combination of wind
resistant, inner brushed fabric
with highly stretchy inserts
for freedom of motion. Light
as a feather and enormously
compactable, this jacket
packs a punch. The Ceplex
active coating ensures reliable
weather protection and a
comfortable micro-climate.
Rs. 5,780
Bum Bag
Lightweight lumbar pack with
bottle holder, it stays in place
with non-slip prints on the
padded back. Also with small
zip pocket and light attachment.
Rs 1,500
Pants
Rugged yet superbly
comfortable climbing pants
with slim cut, stretch material
and water resistant finish. This
multipurpose pant is made up
of synthetic nylon for a cool
and comfortable feel.
Rs. 3,980
Water bottle
Poly carbonated drinking
bottle with large opening and
push-pull cap.
Rs. 1,150
Shoes
Meindal Gore Tax Hiking Shoes
features especially developed
MFS (Memory Foam System)
for support and comfort. The
foam softens from the foot
temperature and adjusts
perfectly to the foot. With
shock absorbing Meindl Air-
Active footbed it is completely
waterproof and made up of
breathable Gore-Tex® linin.
Rs. 17,500
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 43
 globaltreasure

a m a z i n g

bangkok
A paradise for tourists of all kinds; culture junkies,
architecture fanatics, romantics, the pious, history
geeks and shopaholics.
Text by Darshan Shakya
Photos Courtesy: Ravin Bajracharya

44 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

 Thailand has become a most-talked-about tourist destination. And why should it not?
A plethora of exotic and culturally distinctive destinations is spread throughout its 76
provinces, and those who travel to Thailand know that every part of Thailand and every
experience on a Thailand holiday will be unique and fulfilling. The adventure activities,
the breathtaking beaches, the rich culture and heritage, not to mention the insuperable
shopping experience and the infamous pampering -especially that Thai Massage- comprise
a holiday you will not forget easily.
In fact, there are so many must-see places in Thailand, and so many must-do activities in
Thailand, that we could easily fill a whole book. Which is why, this time, the focus is on the
one place any Thailand holiday would be incomplete without: the city famed for its fantastic
shopping opportunities, incredible cultural landmarks and vibrant nightlife, any Thailand
tour’s crown jewel: Bangkok.
Presenting, the 8 Bangkok hotspots not to be missed.

1 Grand Palace
A trip to Bangkok would be left disappoint-
ingly incomplete without visiting the city’s
most famous landmark: The Grand Palace.
Living up to its name, this palace offers a
jaw-dropping display of beautiful architec-
ture and intricate detail; it is a monument
to the awe-inspiring creativity and crafts-
manship of the Thai people. The Palace
also houses the Wat Phra Keuw (temple of
the Emerald Budhha), the most important
Buddhist temple in Thailand. Numerous
galleries await the tourist inside the Pal-
ace complex, unquestionably a feast for
the eyes. And then there is the impressive
Dusit Hall, rated as perhaps the finest ar- Palace is Thailand’s most sacred site, and worn: bare feet are a violation of the dress
chitectural building in its style. The many one must adhere to a strict dress code to code. However, if the tourist does show up
parts of the Grand Palace, from the En- be allowed entry to the temple. Men must at the front gate inappropriately dressed, a
trance Hall to the Upper Terrace, will have wear long pants and shirts with sleeves and booth is available near the entrance that
tourist swoonings. A grand, grand palace women must be modestly dressed. See can provide clothes in the proper code. A
indeed. There is one thing that the tour- through clothes, bare shoulders and the deposit, of course, is required.
ist must keep in mind, though. The Grand like are not tolerated. Also, socks must be

Reclining Buddha
From the most sacred Buddhist Temple to
the image of the Buddha himself: the Wat
Pho [Temple of the Reclining Budhha] is
another must-see for Bangkok tourists. It is
no wonder that this is the largest Wat (Bud-
dhist temple) in Bangkok, for it houses the
largest image of the Budhha. The highly
impressive gold plated reclining Buddha
is 46 meters long and 15 meters high, and
is designed to illustrate the passing of the
Buddha into nirvana. The feet and the eyes
are engraved with mother-of-pearl decora-
tion, and the feet also show the 108 auspi-
cious characteristics of the true Buddha.
The Wat Pho is also known for two oth-
2
er things: First, it contains the largest
number of Buddha images compared
to any other temple. Second, it is the
best -and highly recommended- place
to receive a traditional Thai massage.
Prospective clients should be aware,
though, that the massage isn’t exactly a
gentle experience. Traditional massage
here cost 150B for 30 minutes, 250B for
an hour and herbal massages are avail-
able at 350B an hour. A foot reflexol-
ogy massage is also available at 250B
for 45 minutes.

TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 45

 Erawan
3 Museum
The phrase “dream come true”
is symbolized and brought to
reality in the Erawan Museum.
A splendid, towering beast, 250
tons in weight, 29 metres high, 39
metres long, and cast in a pure
green-hued copper, it is a most
majestic image of Hindu mythol-
ogy’s Airavata (the three headed elephant
deity), and a museum unique.
The museum is divided into three levels,
symbolizing the three-tiered cosmology of
the Hindu-Thai Buddhist concept of Trib-
humi. The basement level represents the
Underworld, where the Nagas dwell. This
level presents exhibitions concerning the
4 Dream World
When was the last time you were
a child? Who cares!!! Dreamworld
caters to both the young and the
young at heart, for it is an amuse-
ment park extraordinaire. This is
a big American-style theme park
with all the trimmings. Corkscrew,
Bumping Cars, Swinging Viking
Boat, Rollercoaster – they are all
there, and more! Dream World
even has a full fledged go-kart track
and ‘Snow Land’ – a display of arti-
ficial snow (although this attraction
is not included in the main ticket
fee). Like we mentioned before,
if you’ve got kids, YOU wouldn’t
want to miss the Safari Park. And
if you’ve got kids, THEY wouldn’t
let you miss Dream World. A full
day of nothing but fun- a break
from all that culture and heritage,
and so much to do that you won’t
leave this amusement park until all
your energy -or your kids’ energy-
is used up. You might want to go
straight to bed later, though.
46 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
background and establishment of Erawan
Museum, in addition to antique displays.
The Hall represents the Human World,
with exquisite interior decoration inside
the dome-shaped architecture reflecting a
harmonious blend of Eastern and Western
art. The top level -the belly of the beast-
symbolizes Tavatimsa Heaven. This in
Buddhist cosmology is said to be where sa-
cred beings, including elephant deity Aira-
5 Safari World
Only a one-hour drive from Bangkok
city is wilderness on exhibition: a Park
called Safari World. The park is divid-
ed into two parts: the Marine Park and
the Safari Park.
Housing a vast spectrum of animals
from the land, sea and air, the Marine
Park sets the scene for 8 amazing world
class shows. Be they live stunts or ani-
mal performances, the Marine Park is
undoubtedly one of the greatest shows
on Earth -and interestingly, it is as edu-
cational as it is entertaining. If you’ve
got kids with you, you wouldn’t want to
miss this park.
6
Chao Phraya River Cruise Dinner
Now here’s something you don’t see
everyday: a restaurant boat that cruises
along some of the most beautiful sites
on the planet today. i.e., the Chao
Phraya River Cruise Dinner. As you
cruise slowly along the Chao Phraya
River you will pass The Temple of
Dawn (Wat Arun) and the Grand
Palace complex which both provide
sensational twilight photo opportuni-
ties; it is guaranteed to be a memo-
rable 2.5 hour evening cruise. Watch
and ponder about the life along the
vata, congregate. It presents to the viewer a
solemn serenity of Buddha images - a walk-
ing Buddha and eight more in a variety of
postures - oddly offset by lurid abstract art
that lines the concave walls, and depicts
the solar system.
This majestic museum, once a billionaire’s
dream, is now a reality, one that the tourist
can -and should- enjoy.
The
Safari
Park is
more
of a
regular
park
than
an exhibition, but it is the only drive
through zoo in the whole of Bangkok.
One can take one’s own car or ride
the mini-coach up close to these wild
creatures and the thrill of the feeding
show. There’s something indescrib-
able about encountering wildlife like
the Safari Park experience; it is one
experience you will regret not taking.
river, as the Thai people wind up and
are on, to some of amazing local food.
 7 Wat Arun
Sitting majestically on the Thonburi side of described by the
the Chao Phraya River, the legendary Wat Tourism Author-
Arun is one of the most striking riverside ity of Thailand as
landmarks of Thailand. The name Wat 104m high, while
Arun literally means Temple of the Dawn, most other sourc-
but ironically, the most spectacular view of es quote figures
the glittering monument can be seen from around 80-85m.
the east side of the river at sunset, when the It is decorated by
spires of Wat Arun make an impressive sil- bits of porcelain
houette against the skyline. There are some which had previ-
restaurants on the opposite side of the river ously been used
that are good for watching this, though one as ballast by boats
would be lucky to see the image of Wat coming to Bangkok
Arun that’s on all the postcards - that of a from China, a hall-
red sky sunset with the sun setting directly mark of the reign of
behind the temple. King Rama III.
Even so, we recommend getting there by
The Wat Arun consists of a massive elon- Although the Wat really looks better from the river. The Tha Tien express boat pier,
gated prang (Khmer-style tower), and is sur- a distance than close up, its grounds are at the southwest corner of the Grand Pal-
rounded by four smaller prangs. The cen- fairly pleasant and peaceful, with good mu- ace / Wat Phra Kaew, is opposite Wat Arun
tral prang is topped with a seven-pronged rals and a main Buddha image supposedly and boats leave every few minutes. Believe
trident, referred to by many sources as the designed by King Rama II. The mythical us, it’s the best way to visit the temple, and
trident of Lord Shiva himself. The prang is guardians here are also quite impressive. you will not regret it.

8 Ancient Siam to be found here, some of

how to get there?
Both direct and connecting flights
which are hard to come are available for the journey from
by nowadays. This is THE Kathmandu to Bangkok. One can take
place to visit if you're in- the direct flight offered by Thailand’s
terested in Thailand's own Thai Air International or that of our
culture and heritage, and own airlines, Nepal Airlines. Or, one
if you're keen on learn- can take a connecting flight. There are
flights offered to Bangkok via Delhi by
ing about the roots of the
Jet Airlines and Indian Airlines as well
Thai, there is no better
as flights that connected to Bangkok
place to be. Regardless, via Dhaka. Of course, the thing with
Ancient Siam is anoth- connecting flights is the transit time.
er must-see destination Tourist be ‘warned’, transit may take upto
for anyone who plans 8 hours.
on visiting Bangkok.
When to get there?
April and May are the hottest months
Ancient Siam is known as
of the year, when even the locals are
the world's biggest outdoor moved to complain about the heat. June
museum, for it is a piece of sees the beginning of the South West
history itself. With scaled Monsoon, and brings with it the rainy
down as well as full size season, which continues intermittently
replicas of Siam's origi- until the end of October. From November
nal structures, it is best to the end of February the climate is
described as a nutshell of much less trying with a cooling North
Thailand's past and pres- East breeze and a reduction in the
humidity level. This is also the main
ent -and according to
tourist season, and the best time to visit
some, even the future. Thailand.
Furthermore, there
are rare traditional If you intend to avoid Tourist season
folk arts and cultures however, you’ve got to beat the heat.

TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 47

48 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 49
 personalityreview

An h UR WITH

Tashi
Tenzing
Sherpa
Grandson of Nepal’s most famous mountaineer reminisces
about growing up with a famous grandfather and why his book
on the Sherpa people was necessary.

50 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

Years after Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and Sir Edmund Hillary triumphantly scaled the great
Mount Everest; the legacy of Tenzing is being carried on by his grandson Tashi Tenzing
Sherpa. With three ascents of the world’s highest peak under his belt, Tashi has rightfully
gained his own share of fame and honor in the mountaineering world.
Tashi was born in Darjeeling, India on 30 November, 1965, the youngest son of Tenzing Nor-
gay’s eldest daughter Pem Pem. Since his childhood, he emulated his grandfather’s love
of mountain exploration and has managed to maintain this quest by researching and lead-
ing many treks and expeditions. Tashi is now a successful businessman, author, mountain
climber, guide and more importantly a humanitarian. He motivates corporations and orga-
nizations with his knowledge, his work ethic, focus and the determination of his people, the
Sherpas of Mount Everest.
Tashi is married to Bandi Nima Tenzing and together they run their successful travel agency
in Kathmandu–Tenzing Asian Holidays – which specializes in treks, tours and expeditions
across the Himalayas in Nepal and in India, Tibet, Bhutan and even Antarctica. Below is a
brief tête-à-tête with the man himself.
Name
Tashi Tenzing Sherpa
How did you feel growing up with such a
Date of Birth
famous grandfather? 30 Nov, 1965
Every grandfather and grandson shares a
special relationship. I never contemplated I never wanted to ride on my Educational Qualification
Graduate in Sociology
that my grandfather was famous. I used to grandfather’s coat tails. Interests and Hobbies
ask my mother to show me who the great Traveling, photography, trekking, mountaineering,
wild life enthusiast, outdoor activities, adventure
Tenzing Sherpa was but I was surprised to
sports, art & craft, books and environmental / social
find out that the famed Tenzing was the development related sector / motivational speaking /
same man who woke me up every morn- West perceive Nepal as one of the top class Running and fitness training and Playing guitar and
ing. For me he was just my grandfather. destinations of the world. tennis
After my mother told me stories about his Other information
feats, I was taken aback and only then real- What are the future plans regarding your • Runs own specialist Himalayan trek & expeditions
work? and tour company in Nepal with wife Nima
ized that my grandfather was no ordinary Tenzing. This includes a consultancy service for the
man; he was the Tenzing Sherpa, the first to Collaborating with Yeti Holidays, we are Himalayan regions and outdoor skills and survival
step on Everest, the third pole of the world. planning to commence our project of sky courses for high school students.
Not everybody has such vision at the age of trekking. Yeti Holidays is bringing in two • Author of the book Tenzing and the Sherpa’s of
12 but I knew then and there that I wanted new PC 6 Otters aircrafts. We will be taking Everest : PUBLISHED BY HAPPER COLLINS SYDNEY

to be a climber just like my grandfather. I clients who are unable to go on a treacher- AUSTRALIA (Ragged Mountain Press USA 2001)

was really inspired by him and wanted to ous hike literally from one end to another • Patron for ICIMOD Nepal from 2008 onwards.

follow in his footsteps.
Tenzing is a great family name and I am
proud to be associated with this legacy. I
never wanted to ride on my grandfather’s
coat tails. I remember my grandfather as a
very humble man; he was fascinating and
gave me lot of inspiration. I am very proud
of him.
Can you please tell us a little about the
work you do?
Tenzing Asian Holidays caters to a small
select group of clientele and we try to give
them the best facilities available. I think
most of us are selling Nepal cheaply and
catering to budget tourism. Thamel, the
hub of trekking and tourism is getting
clogged and losing its charm.
We have the expertise and the knowledge
and the facilities too. My question is, why
should we charge so less? We have knowl-
edgeable people here, the highest moun-
tains of the world, and the best sceneries,
why should we compromise with the pric-
es? I think it is high time the people in the
in Nepal, focusing on the eight highest
mountains of the world in Nepal. We will
visit beautiful pristine areas like Simmikot,
Rara lake, Shey Phoskdundo Lake, Jom-
som, Mustang, Langang and Everest. For
12 days, they will get to see the full glory
of the Himalayas while I tell them about
the history and the culture of people and
places they will visit. This is going to be a
first in Nepal and I believe it has a niche
market.
What are your thoughts on Nepal Tourism
Year 2011?
Frankly speaking, before aiming to bring
in one million tourists to Nepal, I think we
need to do extensive research. Do we have
the logistics, the infrastructure that a mil-
lion people will need? We certainly cannot
accommodate such a huge number with
the available infrastructure. I think it is
better not to focus on numbers but to con-
centrate on the services that we are provid-
ing. We need to promote areas that are still
pristine and pure that people do not know
about rather than just focusing on Everest
SUMMARY OF ACHIEVEMENTS
• Graduate of St Paul’s Anglican School, Darjeeling
• Recipient of Duke of Edinburgh’s Gold Award
• Bachelor of Arts Degree, Delhi University
• Fully qualified Mountaineering Instructor – trained
at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute,
Darjeeling
• Leader of Australian International Everest
Expedition, 1993 with two mountaineers summiting
• Member of 1997 Tenzing Everest Expedition - Tashi
reached the summit on 23rd May
• Recipient of the National Citizen’s Award of India
from the President of India, February 1998
• Member of Australian Antarctic Research
Expedition, Aug 1998 to May 1999
• Co-author (with wife Judy) of the book Tenzing and
the Sherpas of Everest - Published worldwide in
2001/2002
• Member of Swiss 50th Anniversary Everest
Expedition May 2002. Reached summit with Yves
Lambert May 16, 2002
• Member of the Kennedy Miller Production & Warner
Brother unit to shoot photographs of Antarctica
landscape and wildlife for 5 months in the
Antarctica region from October 2002 to February
2003 to make a feature film which was released
worldwide in December 2006. The film was called
‘HAPPY FEET”.

TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 51


He didn’t climb Everest to
be the first man to summit,
but because of his love for
the mountain.
and Annapurna.
Places like Simikot, Humla, and Dolpo
are very beautiful but the government
has placed high royalty in these places, so
budget travelers cannot afford to go there.
If the government were to subsidize these
royalties and only charge the national park
entrance fee, more people would visit with-
out clogging Mt. Everest and Annapurna.
Bardia National Park is another beautiful
place that is suffering because of shortage
of lodges. I think we need to work together
to utilize our resources well. There should
be strict rules planned out before taking
impetuous decisions.
What inspired you to write ‘Tenzing Norgay
and the Sherpas of Everest’?
Everyone who has climbed Everest has
written a book about it. Many of the books
however do not mention the Sherpa people
even though successful ascents are largely
attributed to these people. The Sherpas
are born and raised in the shadows of the
Himalaya and this is a part of my culture
- part of who I am. I also had my mother’s
journal where she kept her record of travel-
ing accounts with her father. These were
very interesting so I thought of sharing
them. In my book I have brought out
the perspective of the Sherpa peo-
ple. This is their story, dealing with
their physiology, their culture and
what makes them maestros in
climbing treacherous moun-
tains that every one fears.
52 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
Now the book has been translated into 15
languages. This book is my tribute to the
immense contribution of the Sherpas, in-
cluding my grandfather, to Himalayan ex-
ploration and mountaineering.
How did it feel to finally summit Everest in
1997 and twice later?
It was exhausting (laughs). No, but really
it was a relief. I had attempted to summit
in 1993 to mark the 40th anniversary of the
first successful expedition by Tenzing and
Sir Edmund. But I had to descend 400m
from the top due to snow blindness. How-
ever the desire to climb Everest remained
in my heart. Going back again in 1997, I
was finally able to summit Everest. I had
looked forward to the day since my child-
hood and I could feel the adrenaline rush- not already awake. Once I was on a trek-
ing in my veins. It was around 6:30 in the king trip with him and my uncle in upper
morning when we finally reached the sum- part of Sikkim for 14 days. One day a huge
mit. We saw the sun rising and the moon number of yaks came charging down at us.
setting. The most beautiful part of sum- We were really terrified but my grandfather
miting is that you can see that the earth is ran towards them and shouted and they
round from that height. You can really see stopped miraculously. This incident might
its curvature. It was a wonderful feeling of sound astounding and incredible, but the
achievement. Everest has been very kind fact is that Tenzing had been around yaks
and welcoming to me as all my three expe- all his life. He understood them well. He
ditions have been clear and beautiful. used to herd yaks since he was 8 years old
and he knew their language. He was a very
In 2002, I made my second ascent of Ever- humble man, he had absolutely no ego. He
est with the Swiss Rolex 50th Anniversary didn’t climb Everest to be the first man to
team to commemorate the gallant attempts summit, but out of love for the mountain.
of 1952 by Tenzing Norgay and Raymond
Lambert. I reached the summit with Tell us a little about your travels.
Yves Lambert to fulfill the dream I love traveling. Personally, I believe trav-
of a father and grandfather. eling broadens one’s horizons. I have trav-
Then in 2007, I scaled Everest eled to many places; the Himalayan region
for the third time, from the Ti- of Nepal and India to Pakistan, Tibet,
betan side this time. Bhutan and Sikkim. I have been to South
America, Germany, Switzerland and Ant-
What are your fondest arctica. Antarctica is one of my favorite des-
memories of your tinations. Another place I would like to go
grandfather? to is to Africa to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro, the
He used to come re- highest peak there.
ally early into our
home and used to
get angry if we were
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 53
 hEALTHTIMES

heal hy
S taying

on a trek
Text by Dr. Ravi Shankar

Trekking for most individuals is the holiday of a

lifetime. Most have a wonderful time and return fitter
and healthier.
In this article I will try and list out the various ailments which can afflict you
while trekking and how to minimize their occurrence. Before I go on to specific
conditions let me put things in perspective. I have been trekking in Nepal for
about ten years and have been on 25 treks and till date have been ill only
twice. The clean mountain air, the beautiful scenery and the fresh wholesome
food have a beneficial effect on health.

Leaving Kathmandu healthy Stomach problems

Most trekking guides mention leaving the
Kathmandu healthy as a major challenge for
a trekker. Due to poor water quality, improper
food handling and preparation methods, the
chances of contracting a stomach ‘bug’ are
high in Kathmandu. The dust and air pol-
lution can worsen lung diseases. Eat only in
recommended restaurants and drink only
properly boiled water. Also pay attention to
the cleaning of eating and drinking utensils.
Avoid green salads and uncooked food to be
on the safer side.
‘Healthy’ trekking
Over the years I have developed a set of rules
for trekking which have served me well. As-
cend slowly with plenty of ‘standing’ breaks of
about a minute. The rest step while climbing
has been strongly recommended. Your body
gradually warms up while trekking and if you
take a prolonged ‘sitting’ break then you lose
the advantage of warming up. I would recom-
mend not more than three prolonged breaks-
One for lunch and two for tea.
Descend slowly using a strong walking stick or
ski pole for support. Protect your knees and re-
sist the temptation to rush down the mountain
like locals. Absorb impacts on a bent knee.
Use a trekking boot with ankle support and
ensure you ‘break in’ your boots before going
on a trek.
First aid kit
Ensure that you or someone
in your team has a first aid
kit. Most books recommend
you carry moleskin (difficult
to obtain in Nepal), adhesive
bandages, elastocrepe
bandages, a thermometer,
two or three long wooden
scale for use as a splint,
antihistamines, pain killers,
antimotility agents, antibiotics,
ORS, antiprotozoals,
sunscreen preparations
with a high sun protection
factor (SPF), acetazolamide
for altitude sickness and
antibiotic eye drops. I would
also recommend two prefilled
syringes loaded with the
steroid dexamethasone.
This can be life saving if you
develop problems at altitude.
Third world developing countries like Nepal
have problems keeping out feces from the wa-
ter supply. All water especially at low altitudes
should be regarded as contaminated and treat-
ed before drinking. Chemical disinfectants
like iodine and chlorine can be used. Allow at
least half an hour for disinfection. Ultraviolet
pens are also being used. These methods may
not work well if the water is turbid or there is
organic matter. Boiling is a good method and
bringing the water to a rolling boil for about
30 seconds is enough to kill most disease caus-
ing organisms even at high altitudes.
Trekking lodges take a lot of care with their
food preparation and hygiene. Most food is
prepared fresh. Be careful with meat. I would
recommend that your main food be the Nep-
alese staple of dal bhaat (lentils and rice)
with vegetables. This food supplies plenty of
carbohydrates and proteins and also replaces
fluid losses. Do not drink hard liquor while
trekking. Beer or wine may be safe if taken in
moderation.
Ultraviolet protection
The air at altitude is clean, clear and there
is lesser thickness of the atmosphere above
you. The ultraviolet rays are stronger and can
damage the skin, especially in fair individu-
als. Ensure your face, neck, hands and legs
are protected by a sunscreen with a high SPF
(around 40). Wear light colored T shirts and

54 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

pants while trekking. They absorb less of
the heat. Jeans are not recommended trek-
king apparel.
Trekker’s knee
Repeated trauma to the knee cartilages can
cause pain and swelling. You will be un-
able to bend your knee. I consider squat-
ting at a Nepalese toilet as a good test for
the knee. If you are able to do it properly
without any problems your knees are OK!
Use a stick/ski pole to absorb some of the
shock while descending. Descend sideways
if possible and absorb impacts on a bent
knee. Take short breaks while descending.
Rest, heat application, painkillers and local
application of anti-inflammatory ointments
are useful if the condition develops.
Stinging nettles
Stinging nettles (sisnu) can be a problem
along some trails. These plants sting when
touched. Antihistamines and pain killers
may be useful. Be careful if these plants are
growing by the side of the trail and learn to
identify them for your own safety.
Falls
Falls are a major risk. Be careful on uneven
ground. Be doubly careful towards the end
of the day when you are tired. Do not stop
when crossing areas of landslides. Many
falls occur while going to the toilet at night
though it is decreasing with increasing
number of indoor toilets. Be careful while
ascending/descending stairs in lodges and
always mind your head. If the toilet is out-
side then plan the route of your night ex-
cursion in advance.
Mosquitoes and bed bugs
Mosquitoes may be a problem dur-
ing lowland treks. Many lodges in
these areas provide mosquito nets.
A mosquito repellent may be useful.
Bed bugs are a more common prob-
lem. Bringing your own sleeping bag
can be a solution but these run the
risk of getting infested.
Trekking at altitude
Trekking at altitude brings its own set
of problems. Acetazolamide if started
two or three days before entering high
altitude and continued throughout
your period of stay aids acclimatiza-
tion. Altitude symptoms are common
above 3000 m though they can occur
even above 2500 m. The most usual is
a mild to moderate headache, nausea
and even vomiting. Ascend no more
than 300 m a day above an altitude of
3000 m. Plan rest days into your sched-
ule. On these days walk higher and re-
turn to sleep at lower altitude. Drink
plenty of water and keep yourself well
hydrated. I find ORS (Oral Rehydra-
tion Salts)v a good fluid for maintain-
ing water and salt balance. Your urine
should be clear and light colored. Do
not go higher if you are suffering alti-
Eye care
The strong
ultraviolet
(UV) radiation
can damage the
eyes. Use a sun glass with UV protection.
Do not use dark glasses which do not pro-
tect against UV rays. The pupil of the eye
dilates behind these dark shades and more
UV light enters the eye causing greater
damage. If you are walking for long periods
on snow, use glacier glasses with side blind-
ers. Persons using contact lenses should be
scrupulous about hygiene which may be
difficult at higher altitudes.
Leeches
Leeches could be a problem especially
during the monsoon. Constantly trying to
avoid leech bites can lead to falls and inju-
ries. Locals use salt to protect themselves.
Some also soak their socks and foot wear in
kerosene. Be sure to remove all the leeches
when you stop.
tude symptoms. If your symptoms do
not decrease then descend. Fluid in
the lungs and in the brain are two life
threatening emergencies which can
occur. The symptoms are difficulty in
breathing even at rest and coughing
out pink frothy sputum for fluid in
the lungs and confusion, clumsiness
and difficulty in walking for fluid in
the brain. Oxygen, rest, propped up
position, acetazolamide and a blood
vessel dilator (nifedipine) are useful
in HAPE (fluid in lungs) while aceta-
zolamide, oxygen and dexamethasone
can be life saving in HACE (fluid in
the brain). Patients can be put into a
Gamow bag to buy time and should
be carried down or evacuated by he-
licopter.
Foot care
Use thick socks which will absorb mois-
ture leaving the foot dry. Two layers of
socks are helpful. Remove your shoes and
socks during your lunch break and care-
fully inspect the skin for signs of blisters.
Keep your feet dry.
Persons with medical problems
or on medications
Contact your doctor or a travel medicine
clinic in Kathmandu who would be able
to advise you. Generally medications for
chronic diseases should be continued un-
less otherwise indicated. Trekkers from oth-
er countries should also ensure that their
vaccinations against common diseases are
up to date before they start on a trek.
These precautions will increase the chanc-
es of your staying healthy and having a
wonderful trekking holiday.
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 55
 Destinationspotlight

GOKYO LAKE Gokyo is a series of high altitude lakes at around 4800 m in the Sagarmatha
National Park in the Solukhumbu district of Nepal. Gokyo Ri, a rocky ridge
near Gokyo is a spectacular Himalayan view point.

Text and Photos by Dr. Ravi Shankar

56 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

 The Gokyo lakes earth. Ama Dablam, Kangtega, Tawachee,
There are a total of five lakes at a height of Lhotse and of course Everest are among
Location of GokYo
around 4800 m. The third lake is the larg- the Himalayan giants towering over you.
est and the collection of lodges called Go- You can discern the village of Phortse and
kyo is situated on its shores. The settlement the monastery at Tengboche.
is dwarfed by the huge lateral moraine
scooped out by the glacier. Gokyo and asso- About one and half hour after Namche the
ciated lakes have a total area of 7700 hect- trail diverts from the main one to EBC and
ares and were designated as a wetland of climbs to the village of Mong reputed to
international importance under the Ram- be the birthplace of the Saint Lama Sange
sar convention in 2007. Nine wetland sites Dorje who introduced Buddhism to the
in Nepal have been included in the con- Khumbu. There is a steep descent after
vention which aims to protect wetlands all Mong to Phortse Thanga. This descent
over the world. The shores of the lakes are makes the trek risky from the point of view
The high altitude Gokyo lakes lie
of fine sand reminding you of sea beaches. of altitude sickness as you have to ascend
in the Sagarmatha National Park in
These may have formed part of the Tethys for over 500 m to finally get out of the val-
the Solukhumbu district of Eastern
sea before the Indian plate rammed into ley if you fall ill. Be careful and stick to the
Nepal. Founded in 1976, the park
the Eurasian uplifting the edges and form- recommended itinerary though it is easy to
was designated as UNESCO World
ing the Himalayas. The alpine pastures and go too far too fast. Phortse, a spread out vil-
Heritage site in 1979. It encloses the
sloping mountains of the U-shaped Gokyo lage with excellent lodges is a steep ascent
upper drainage areas of the Dudh
valley support a number of endangered from Phortse Thanga. The next day’s desti-
Koshi (milk river) and is surrounded
species including the Kutki plant, the Hi- nation is Dole at 4200 m. The best lodge in
by some of the highest mountains on
malayan Tahr, the Snow Leopard and the the settlement is the Yeti Lodge and I still
earth. The first man to climb Everest,
wood snipe. The wetlands are important for remember their apple custard with relish.
Sir Edmund Hillary had an important
role in convincing the Nepalese many species of birds which migrate over
the Himalayas. Garbage and sewage of the Machermo at around 4400 m is your fol-
government to establish the park
visitors are possible threats to the lake. lowing day’s destination. The hike is short
and the New Zealand government to
and you should be there by around eleven.
support the venture.
Getting there from Lukla The mountain scenery around Machermo
The initial trek is along the gorge carved is spectacular. Machermo is the site of one
The Gokyo valley lies to the west of
by the Dudh Koshi. Namche Bazaar, the of the most credible yeti incident reported
the traditional trek to Kala Patthar
unofficial capital of the Sherpa region has in the Khumbu where a yeti attacked a
and Everest Base Camp (EBC). Gokyo
plenty of lodges including up market ones. Sherpa woman and killed three yaks way
lakes lie along the lateral moraine
It is a stiff climb to Namche, so start early. back in 1974. The International Porter’s
of the Ngozumpa glacier, Nepal’s
Namche has many bakeries where you Progress (IPP) runs a trekkers’ aid post
longest. Most tourists reach the
can satisfy your appetite for bakery items which treats both trekkers and locals. The
lakes trekking up from Lukla, during
and pastries. The cyber cafes have a high doctors manning the post in season deliver
trekking season, the second busiest
speed connection through satellite but are a talk every afternoon on staying well at al-
airport in Nepal.
expensive (10 Rs per minute the last time I titude. Attend this useful talk and contrib-
was there). Spend a day acclimatizing. Visit ute generously to this organization which
the monastery at the top of the hill. I would has done much to improve the condition of
recommend the day hike to the Syangbo- porters in the Himalayas. Near Machermo
che airstrip at around 3900 m and the three you can see a porter shelter constructed by
stars Everest View Hotel. You can have tea IPP. From Machermo the trail descends
with one of the finest mountain views on to the river before eventually climbing the
Elevation
4,750 meters
Location
Sagarmatha National Park
Best for Trekking
March, April, May, Oct, Nov, Dec
Transportation
Car / Van / Plane
Nearest Airport
Lukla
Trek Grade
Moderate to Strenuous
Trek Highlights
Scenic mountain flight to Lukla; Sherpa home town;
Gokyo Lakes; amazing view of Mt. Everest, Cho Oyu;
Ngozumpa Glacier

TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 57

 1. The houses and lodges of Namche
Bazaar
2. The village of Phortse with Tawachee in
the background
3. Sunrise on the Himals from Ghat
4. The trail through Na, Thare and Konar

terminal moraine of the glacier and soon of your heated dining room. On my visit bulk of the Ngozumpa glacier and the
reaches the first Gokyo lake. Spend some there with a big group of students and fac- Gokyo lakes with the settlement on the
time here enjoying the wild surroundings ulty, we had stayed at a lodge bang on the shores of the third one. Four of the world’s
or return after you are settled in at Gokyo. shore. The lodges have indoor toilets and ten eight thousand meter peaks, Cho Oyu,
The trail eventually climbs to the third Go- decent rooms. My advice to trekkers would Lhotse, Makalu and Everest are seen. Ever-
kyo lake with lodges by its shore. be to arrive early and look around before est is seen at a greater distance compared
to Kala Patthar on the EBC side but more
You can see the vast bulk of the Ngozumpa glacier and of the massif itself is visible. I rank the view
of Everest from Gokyo Ri as one of the fin-
the Gokyo lakes with the settlement on the shores of the est views of the mountain from Nepal. The
top is crisscrossed with prayer flags which
third one. Four of the world’s ten eight thousand meter flutter in the fierce wind. You can trek up
peaks, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Makalu and Everest are seen. to catch the sunrise from the viewpoint but
the hike takes at least 3 hours putting you
Finding accommodation is easier com- you make your final choice. at risk of hypothermia in the pre dawn cold.
pared to the more crowded EBC trek. Go- Sunsets are more colorful and spectacular
kyo is only about four hours from Macher- What you can do at Gokyo than sunrises when the mountains become
mo and most trekkers are in before midday. The two main options are to climb Gokyo golden, then orange and finally pink in the
Big trekking groups often book a number of Ri, a view point to the northwest or con- rays of the setting sun.
rooms making things difficult for individu- tinue further up the Gokyo valley. Cho
al trekkers. The Gokyo resort (a lodge) was Oyu, an 8000 m peak towers to the north. The hike up the valley floor is strongly
built by the members of an Austrian bal- I had a wonderful time watching sunset on recommended by Hugh Swift, a famous
looning expedition over Everest. There is a this lovely mountain. Gokyo Ri (Ri means trekker. He describes that during the hike
trading library at Gokyo. You can watch the mountain in Tibetan) is a spectacular Hi- along a barely discernable path, Mt. Ever-
play of light on the waters from the comfort malayan view point. You can see the vast est can be seen from a unique perspective

58 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES


making it look like a giant pup tent. You
come across two more lakes. Take a guide
and a packed lunch along as there is no
habitation above Gokyo.
You can vary the return trip by returning
through the eastern side of the valley and
the villages of Thare or Konar and Na and
eventually reaching Phortse. These villages
may not have lodges of the same quality as
in other locations.
Specialties of the Gokyo trek
Gokyo is a high altitude trek in the Ever-
est region. The village of Phortse is famous
for its Sherpa culture and hospitality. You
can observe Nepal’s longest glacier, the
Play of light on the Gokyo Lakes
Ngozumpa and a series of beautiful high
altitude lakes. The mountain scenery is
spectacular and Gokyo Ri is one of the fin-
est view points. Rolling grass pastures and
the flora and fauna make it a unique ex-
perience.
Enjoy the spectacular beauty of this less
frequented valley in the Khumbu. Have
a wonderful time and trek safely. Also ob-
serve first hand the effects of global warm-
ing on the glaciers and the mountains. Pre-
serving the wonderful Gokyo lakes and the
Himalayas, the abode of snow is a matter of
urgent priority. Action is needed right now
for tomorrow may be too late!
LET’S GO
Getting there
A 15 to 18 day hike from Jiri. An eight to
ten day hike from the airstrip at Lukla.
You can combine this trek with the EBC
one by crossing a high altitude pass, the
Cho La. You can return in three days to
Lukla.
When to go?
The best time is during the peak trekking
season from October to early December
or during March and April.
Permission
Trekking permits are no longer needed.
Foreigners are advised to obtain a
Trekking Registration Certificate. You
are trekking in the Sagarmatha National
Park and have to obtain a pass at Monjo,
the park entrance. The cost is Rs. 100 for
SAARC Nationals and Rs. 1000 for others.
Entry is free for Nepalese.
Organized tours or going alone?
Both are possible. With lodge
accommodation available and the
trail being not very difficult, individual
trekkers will not have problems.
Health concerns
The trek is at a high altitude so keep in
mind the possibility of altitude sickness.
Keep yourself hydrated and monitor
your body. Attend the high altitude talk
at Machermo if the doctors are giving
one. The dry, cold air of the Khumbu
can irritate and inflame your respiratory
passages causing a running nose and dry
cough. Steam inhalation and lozenges
can be helpful.
Equipments
Carry warm clothes and a down jacket
as it can be very cold. A waterproof
windcheater is useful. Good trekking
boots with ankle support, a trekking
hat and a close fitting cap. Good glacier
glasses with side binders. Sunscreen
with a good SPF. Crampons and other
equipment are needed only if you plan to
climb a peak.
SUGGESTED TREK OPERATORS
Explore Himalaya
www.explorehimalaya.com
Himalayan Glacier Trekking
www.himalayanglacier.com
Sacred Summits
www.sacredsummits.com
thamserku trekking
www.thamserkutrekking.com
yeti travels
www.yetitravels.com
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 59
 TRAVELtIPS

Right Shoe Forward!

During and after a great trek, most amateur trekkers complain of blisters, backaches and generally
sore feet. Most newbie trekkers get all other gear right but think that any pair of good shoes will do.
Wrong. Any pair will not do. Your feet are what get you up the hill and then down it too. Take extra
care of them with these guidelines to choose the right shoe for specific kinds of treks.

Traditional Leather Hiking Boots
Traditional leather hiking boots have been
around for years. Some hikers swear by them;
others swear at them. They have quite a bit of
pros and cons.
Pro Traditional backpacking boots offer ankle
support for rugged conditions, especially
for hikers with weak ankles or poor bal-
ance and are a good choice for hikers
with heavy packs. They are durable and
can be re-soled and repaired so they last
for years. Leather boots are waterproof,
and come up high enough above the
ankle to keep sand and mud out of the
boot.
Con Traditional boots are heavy - up to four
pounds per pair - making hiking more tir-
ing. They are also much more expensive.
Stiff ones are more likely to cause blis-
ters; they need to be broken in.
Verdict: Not usually necessary, but a good
choice for hikers with weak ankles, heavy
loads, or those going into rough conditions
where durability and support are important.
Lightweight Trekking Shoes
Lightweight trekking shoes look and feel a lot
like running shoes, but they are usually a better
choice because they have stiffer soles with bet-
ter traction for slippery trails.
Pro Trekking shoes are lightweight, which
means the hiker exerts less effort to lift
them. They also pack more easily into
luggage. They are less expensive and are a
good choice for warm weather trekking.
Con Because trekking shoes don’t cover the
ankle, blister-causing dirt and sand can creep
in.Trekking shoes don’t offer as much sup-
port, making them a poor choice for hikers
with heavy packs. Hikers with balance issues
or weak ankles might need the support of an
above-the-ankle boot. They aren’t water-
proof too, making them poor choices for wet
or snowy conditions, especially if kicking
steps into snow banks is necessary.Trekking
shoes are not really known for durability.
Verdict: Good choice for day hikers and long-
distance backpackers with strong ankles who
have managed to minimize the weight of their
packs.
Leather-Fabric Hybrid Hiking Boots
Leather-fabric boots combine the best of
both worlds. They are the best choice for
hikers who trek in a variety of conditions.
Leather-fabric hybrids have leather for sup-
port and fabric (usually Cordura) for flexibility
and breathability.
Pro Hybrid outdoor boots need less break-
ing in than leather boots. (Note: they
can cause blisters if not broken in at
least a little). These boots come up
over the ankle, keeping dirt out and
offering ankle support sufficient for
most hiking conditions. They also are
rugged enough to handle uneven ter-
rain, scree, and even kicking steps into
snow.
Con Hybrids are not waterproof, and can
become heavy in wet conditions. They
are heavier than trekking shoes, and
might not be necessary for day hikers
on easy terrain.
Verdict: Good choice for most backpackers
hiking in a variety of conditions.

As a rule, most backpackers today choose leather-fabric hybrid boots. Day-hikers lean towards trekking shoes, as do ultra-light
backpackers who prioritize light weight over support or durability. And a few traditionalists stick to leather boots, valuing their
stability and ruggedness. Make an informed choice. Happy Trekking!

60 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 61
 COMPANYPROFILE

Fishtail Air’s AS 350 B2 Chopper at Gorakh

Shep, Everest region

62 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

Heli-Trekking with Fishtail Air

Nepal is famous the world over for its natural

wonders - towering Himalayan peaks, verdant hills
which shelters some of the world’s endangered
flora and fauna, gushing rivers and serene
mountain lakes, as well as world famous heritage
sites. To take in all these splendors from aboard a
helicopter is indeed a once in a lifetime experience.
Text by Usha Rai
Photo Courtesy Fishtail Air

Fishtail Air Pvt. Ltd., a private helicopter
charter company with its base in Kathman-
du, was established in the year 1997 under
the Air Operators Certificate issued by the
government of Nepal. Since its inception,
the company has been actively involved in
operation throughout Nepal with an oc-
casional trans-border flight to Bhutan and
India.
With a fleet of four helicopters: AS 350 B,
AS 350 B2 and the newly added AS 350B3
(all products of Eurocopter, France) and
one Bell 206B III Jet Ranger (product of
Bell Textron Helicopters, USA) , Fishtail
Air operates flights for sightseeing, rescue,
medical evacuation, corporate movement,
project support, expedition works or any
other purposes that need the services of a
helicopter. The aircrafts used by Fishtail
Air are regarded as one of the most versatile
and safest helicopters, and are suitable for
mountain flights and all types of helicopter
missions.

TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 63

Snowy landscape with towering Himalayan peaks – Everest region
Langtang Heli- trekking- At Kyangjin
Heli - Trekking
A new form of adventure that is becoming
quite popular these days is the company’s
Heli – Trekking programs. Heli-Trekking
entails operating support flights for trekking.
The Heli - Trekking programs are specially
designed for those who can’t spare enough
time to go trekking for days. It provides a
welcome respite from the hustle bustle of
the city, an ideal trekking adventure that
one can undertake along with one’s family
to the mountains without having to worry
about physical strain and time constraints.
Fishtail Air’s Heli–Trekking
Programs
Fishtail Air’s Heli-Trekking company oper-
ates heli- trekking in all the trekking regions
in Nepal, but the most popular programs
on demand are to the regions of Langtang
and Annapurna Base Camp.
The Heli - Trekking
programs are specially
designed for those
who can’t spare
enough time to go
trekking for days.
64 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
High mountain adventure, aboard the comforts of a chopper
Langtang
Heli-Trekking
From Tribhuvan International Airport, the
helicopter flies to Ghora Tabela, a trekking
point in the heart of Langtang Valley from
where the Langtang Valley trek begins. As
we are flown to our destination, mesmer-
izing sights of snow capped Ganesh Himal
(7407m.), Langtang Lirung (7246 m.) and
Dorje Lapka (6975m) open up. After fly-
ing for about an hour the chopper finally
lands at Ghora Tabela, from where we trek
towards Langtang village. On the second
day, we continue trekking to Kyanjin, pass-
ing through yak pastures and picturesque
traditional villages en route.
The Langtang Valley, inhabited mostly by
Sherpas and Tamangs, lies in high alpine
country. A place untouched by moderniza-
tion, people over here still follow the an-
cient customs and traditions of their forefa-
thers. We get the opportunity to visit small
markets, a cheese factory and a monastery.
On the third day, we board the helicopter
from Kyangjin and fly back to Kathmandu.
Duration: 2 Hours (Drop one hour and pick up
one hour)
Number of Passengers: 04/05
Annapurna Base Camp
Heli Trekking
For the Annapurna Base Camp heli-
trekking, we board the helicopter from
Tribhuvan International Airport, Kath-
mandu and fly to Chomrong(2,100m),
a trekking point approximately two
days away from the Annapurna Base
Camp(4130m). We trek through dense
rhododendron forest with towering snowy
peaks in the background. En route to An-
napurna Base Camp, we pass the famous
Annapurna Sanctuary. The sanctuary is
a huge amphitheater enclosed by a solid
wall of snow-capped peaks of Annapurna
I, II, III and IV and the fish tail spire of
Machhapuchhare. On the fourth day, our
trekking adventure ends and we board the
helicopter from Annapurna Base Camp
and return to Kathmandu via Pokhara.
Duration: Trek- 5 hrs(drop 2hrs 30 mins / pick
up 2hrs 30 mins).
Number of Passengers: 04/05
 1 2

1. At Gorakh Shep , EBC

2. Heli-Trekking in the Annapurna region
3. Panoramic view of Himalayan peaks seen while taking the
‘Discover Mt.Everest’ Tour
4. Aerial view of UNESCO World heritage site Swoymbhunath
Temple, Kathmandu
5. Bird’s eye view of Bhaktapur Durbar Square
6. Pashupatinath Temple, Kathmandu

Other Tours – An Overview

Fishtail Air also runs other aerial sightseeing tours and
mountain flights. The company’s aerial sightseeing
flights over the popular heritage and tourist spots within
the Kathmandu Valley is quite popular among tourists.
From the comfort of the helicopter you get to feast on
the amazing aerial views of Kathmandu city. The com-
pany’s ‘Discover Mount Everest’ tour offers along with
the view of awe-inspiring Mt. Everest, panoramic views
of Himalayan peaks like Kwangde, Nuptse, Lhotse, 3
Amadablam, Kangtega, and Thamserku.

The Pokhara and Annapurnas heli- tour,takes you over

the magnificent Annapurna Sanctuary and Mt. Dhaula-
giri. From the comfort of the helicopter, you enjoy the
panoramic vista of Ganesh Himal, Manaslu, Lamjung
Himal and the fast flowing Marshyangdi river. The Be-
gnas, Rupa and Phewa lakes, look like jewels from up
above.

On taking the Chitwan Wildlife tour package, one is

flown to the heart of ChitwanNational Park. After com-
pleting two fun-filled days in the park, spent on jungle
safari, elephant rides, canoeing etc , on the third day you
will be picked up for your return flight to Kathmandu.
Fishtail Air’s helicopters have also proven quite popu-
lar among pilgrims visiting remote pilgrimage sites like
Muktinath, Gosainkunda, Damodar Kund Mt. Kailash
etc. Many pilgrims prefer to take the company’s charter
services to transport them to the holy pilgrimage sites.

For more information on heli – trekking and heli tours, www.fishtailair.com

4

5 6

TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 65

66 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 67
 PEOPLE&CULTURE

The

Sherpa People of ILLAM

A sizeable community of Sherpa people lives
in Illam, Nepal’s tea district that borders
on India. They are fine examples of how
a community is defined as much by the
conditions they live in as by time-tested
traditions.
A huge tree, unearthed, lay inclined in the middle of
the road, a part of its roots still in the ridge that had fol-
lowed us on our left. Our vehicle, an old Land Rover,
slowed down and then stopped a few feet away from
the tree. The tree was too heavy to be lifted and there
were not enough people to even try such an option. It
was decided that we would walk the rest of the way to
Khopi. I had been trekking with a photographer friend
on assignment in the scenic, mountain villages of Il-
lam in Eastern Nepal and our travels so far had been
problem free.

Text by Utsav Shakya

68 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

But soon, another, graver problem present-
ed itself. The only space the Land Rover
had to make an about turn and head back
after leaving us was a little ahead of the
fallen tree. On our right, a sheer drop of at
least fifty feet into a small rocky river added
to the tension. There was no way Raju, our
driver, could back the huge four wheel
drive to another space about a kilometer
behind us. But inch by inch Raju turned
the vehicle until it lay sideways; cover-
ing almost the entire width of the road
and then all turned it all the way around.
When we finally got to a misty, cold Khopi
later that afternoon, a warm Sherpa family
awaited us. We would spend our first night
in the hills there.
In fact, every day for the seven days that
we trekked through the hills of Illam, we
took refuge in the homes of local Sherpas.
How did so many Sherpas, indigenous to
Solukhumbu district end up here? What
had brought so many of them here and for
what purpose? When had they come here?
Although my knowledge about Sherpas was
not confined to just their fame as trustwor-
thy porters and guides, rather shamefully, I
did not know a lot about them either.
My first guess that the Sherpas must have
migrated internally from the Khumbu area
looking for fertile land and work opportu-
nities turned out to be only partially true.
According to history, these Sherpas moved
to Illam from Tibet in 640 AD and then
1496 AD again. In Illam, out of forty nine
Village Development Committees, Sher-
pas occupy about nineteen with a total of
approximately fifteen thousand Sherpas. A
majority of them are engaged in agricul-
ture, with growing numbers also branching
out towards business and administrative
jobs and even into the army and the police
forces. A lot of the Sherpa population here
is also involved in dairy farming, tea plan-
tation and cardamom production; a few of
Illam’s specialities. In Falake, a half hour
drive from the scenic Sandakphu hill top
that borders India, new cheese factories
have recently opened. Most Sherpas are
financially quite secure and their literacy
rates are higher than that of other ethnic
groups that inhabit these hills with most
children attending schools in Darjeeling.
Another unique feature about the Sherpas
here is that they have managed to build a
monastery in each of their villages and al-
most all these villages have access to motor-
able roads. It is another thing that most of
these roads have been constructed at im-
possible inclines and are not black topped,
both of which makes for some harrowing
rides in the area. Locals here do not com-
plain. Any kind of road is better than no
roads.
Standing witness to the trend of Sherpas
migrating to Illam is Lhakpa Nurbu Sher-
pa, head of the Sherpa family who shel-
tered us on our first night. Lhakpa dai is
warm, always smiling, quick to comment
on every topic and witty to no end. We
followed his bright yellow rubber boots as
they made crunching sounds on the gravel
outside into his kitchen, which is separate
from the main house, which is often the
case in the area. Pasi didi, his daughter in
law had already started a warm fire. The
kitchen walls are lined with shelves full of
colorful cups, chillies dipped in oil, saucers
and wooden containers to sip on Tongba,
a traditional alcoholic drink. Her young
son, Lhakpa dai’s adorable grandson Tenz-
ing, is one and half years old and stumbles
behind her, shy and awkward in the com-
pany of rare visitors. He does not speak any
Nepali and understands only a few Sherpa
words. This tongue, also known as Sharwa
is a separate language, and not a dialect of
the Tibetan language as it is believed to be.
Sharwa is rarely written, the words are hard
to pronounce but can be quite accurately
spell using Devanagari or Roman charac-
ters.
Unlike most Sherpas who moved here a
long time ago, Lhakpa dai first tried his
luck at finding work in the capital when he
was a young boy. Unable to find work soon
and disliking the city’s hustle and bustle, he
traveled east and settled in Illam. Lhakpa
dai is originally from Khotang -a district
bordering on Solukhumbu-where he still
has a brother and other relatives spread out
in the area, whose names he is starting to
forget. He also has family in Kathmandu
but he does not want to move there. It was
a tough decision because it meant a com-
promise against a better financial status as
well as better health and educational facili-
ties, but he does not regret it today. He does
not remember the year when he got here
nor does he remember his exact age; better
still, he does not look like he really cares.
It’s not an important number to him as op-
posed to the number of kilos of potatoes he
was able to grow last year or the number of
years his son has been in the Indian Army
and has not been home.
Another unique feature
about the Sherpas here is
that they have managed to
build a monastery in each
of their villages and almost
all these villages have
access to motorable roads.
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 69
“I have meat and
Tongba every day. My
family is with me. Every
day is a festival here.”
As Lhakpa dai helps his daughter in law
with the chores, the monotony of their
lives is apparent in the way things get done
easily with only a few words between them.
He prepares all of us some Tongba and
talks about how land is not fertile high up
in the mountains where his house is. But
the recent spurt in medicinal and aromatic
herb plantations, encouraged and funded
by The Mountain Institute, an American
INGO, has caught on well and he is trying
to look into it. It would make things easier
for his wife, his daughter in law and his
grandson. Lhakpa dai is also an example of
how culture and traditions and hence
a people are subject to changes owed
to their environment and financial
stability. Popular Sherpa festivals such
as Dumje, Mani Rimdu, Lhosar and
Dudhkunda festival are heard of but
hardly celebrated. When asked about
them though, Lhakpa dai describes
the festivals in great detail.
Dumje is an important festival cele-
brated by the Solu Sherpa communi-
ty with tantric dances, initiations and
Nen-Seg-Phang-sum i.e. trampling,
burning and throwing as a way to dis-
pel evil spirits being performed. Mani
Rimdu is similar to Dumje in that it
70 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
also involves ritual activities and masked
tantric dances. However, in Mani Rimdu,
Chenrezig or Avalokiteswara, the Buddha
of Compassion appears in neither a wrath-
ful nor peaceful aspect and so the offering
of sacramental cakes called torma is not re-
quired. The devotees recite the six syllable
mantra of Chenrezig, Om Ma Ne Pad Me
Hum for several days, placing mani pills in
front of the shrine. The New Year, Lhosar
also known as Dawa-thangbu in the Sherpa
Language, is celebrated during February; it
is the royal new year of the Gyalpo Losar.
During the festival, the house is cleaned,
ritual foods are prepared, and debts are not
collected mainly because it is believed to
be a time when Guru Rimpoche comes to
visit. Mired by financial and geographical
difficulties the Sherpas here are unable
to celebrate their traditions. Still, religion
plays a huge role as they visit the local gom-
pa, monastery regularly and pray there, lis-
tening often to the teachings of the Buddha
as preached by the Guru.
After a hearty meal of local chicken and
rice washed down with some more Tongba,
we settled down to sleep on the top floor
of the main house, in a sizeable room
with wood flooring and small beds by
the windows. The only sound came
from the small stream that ran by the
side of the kitchen. It is a good place
to be in the world I think to myself,
as I drift off to sleep thinking about
Lhakpa dai’s answer to my question
of whether he celebrates Dashain. “I
have meat and Tongba every day. My
family is with me. Every day is a festi-
val here.” In the eastern hills of Illam,
in a village that goes by Khopi, in a
house that lies in the lap of a great hill,
lives a Sherpa man who has figured
out the meaning of happiness and joy.
And he knows it.
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 71
 hotels&casinos
Gokarna
Forest
Resort
Every once in a while we need to get away from it
all; the hustle and bustle of city life, the long work
hours, the heavy workload, the harasses of daily
life. Men might dream of a quiet game of golf and
maybe an evening at the bar and women might
want to relax in a spa and enjoy some pampering
in a Jacuzzi, or I might have just committed the
crime of stereotyping gender. Whatever the case,
the Gokarna Forest and Golf Course Resort is the
perfect getaway for everybody.
Text by Yesha Malla
72 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
Situated within the city limits of Kath-
mandu, you reach the resort after a
long and winding road. Gokarna For-
est Resort certainly makes up for any
discomfort from the dusty, bumpy
roads. This beautiful oasis is located
inside the serene temperate 740 acre
Gokarna forest. Gokarna forest was a
former royal private hunting ground.
Fascinated by the parks he had seen
in England, Rana era Prime Minis-
ter Jung Bahadur Rana had the area
fenced off and made into a park as
soon as he returned, hence preserv-
ing the forest. The Hunter’s Lodge, a
century old, recently renovated part
of the resort, served as a place for rest
before engaging in teeing off again.
The forest, and subsequently the
resort, takes its name from the
Gokarneshwar Mahadev shrine dedi-
cated to Lord Shiva, one amongst
the triumvirate of the Gods of Gods
– Brahma the Creator, Vishnu the
Preserver and Shiva the Destroyer.
According to legend, Lord Shiva
whimsically decided to hide himself
from the other gods and mankind in
the Pashupatinath forest. While he
frolicked among the wild animals
and trees in tranquility, the world suf-
fered. Vishnu, Brahma, and Indra -
the king of gods, searched and finally
found him disguised as a one-horned
golden deer. They caught him by
the horn which promptly broke into
fragments revealing Shiva in full
glory. He then gave the fragments
to the three Gods: Vishnu took his
portion to his celestial abode, Indra
to his realm in heaven, and Brahma
enshrined it at Gokarneshwor, where
the temple was consequently built.
The Gokarna Forest Resort and Golf
Course, which celebrates its 1st Anni-
versary this year and which recently
hosted the Jazzmandu festival, first
opened solely as a golf course. Ever
since golf was first introduced in Ne-
pal by the then Rana Prime Minister
who returned from Scotland with a
few golf clubs in 1917, golf has been
played avidly and enthusiastically by
people here. Nepal only had nine
hole golf courses, until 1999 when
Gokarna Forest Golf Resort (GFGR)
opened up with Nepal’s first interna-
tional standard 18 hole golf course.
The resort was later established to
provide golfers with a place to relax
and stay over. The resort was formerly
known as Le Meridien Kathmandu,
Gokarna Forest Golf Resort & Spa.
From November of 2008, the resort
has been self managed and is
now known as the Gokarna For-
est Resort.
Besides having the nation’s only
18 hole golf course, the Gokar-
na Forest Resort also boasts of
being the only ‘Eco Hotel’ of
Nepal. Certified as one of the
Eco Hotels of the world since
October 2008, the resort has
joined the eco-friendly band-
wagon. Quite admirably, the
resort believes in proper utiliza-
tion of resources and sustain-
ability. Like all eco-hotels it is
environmentally-responsible,
follows the practices of free liv-
ing, and has made many im-
portant environment friendly
changed in its infrastructure in
order to minimize its impact on
the environment.
Gokarna Resort is currently
concentrating on making the
resort more eco-friendly. It has
already taken some measures
such as using CFL lights in the
entire resort to save electricity,
as well as installing solar cells to
generate electricity. The plan is
to rid the resort entirely of its de-
pendence on external electrical
power. Biogas produced from
kitchen waste is used to power
some of the areas such as the
kitchen and the generator ex-
haust is used to heat up the wa-
ter. Rain water is harvested for
use in the golf course as well as
in the restrooms. Underground
water is used in the entire resort
with eco-friendly soaps and de-
tergents, which is then treated
and reused for plants or to water
the golf course. No pesticides or
other chemicals are used. It also
has a naturalist on board and
FATE - Foundation of Advance-
ment of Tourism Ethics - where
guests are taught about respon-
sible tourism. As if this were not
enough, the resort sets aside a
percentage of its revenues to
provide education for the poor
and for environmental protec-
tion. Plans are also being made
to establish waste management
plants. As part of a new proj-
ect, the resort plans to use local
plants such as titepani to make
bio briquettes that burn effi-
ciently for a long time without
“Our mission is to meet the discerning
expectations of our guests, giving them
a ‘Naturally Nepal’ experience, while
preserving our environment, being
ecologically responsible, and incorporating
models of ethical tourism.”
producing too much smoke.
With more of such projects on
the pipeline, Gokarna Resort is
all set to become a truly green
hotel.
Having already established
Gokarna Resort and Golf
Course as an institution dedi-
cated to environmental sustain-
ability and as a hotel full of his-
tory, a virtual tour of the resort
and its grounds seemed to be
in order. Step through the tra-
ditional wooden Nepali styled
entrance into the spacious lob-
by with gleaming marble floors
and sepia toned warm ambi-
ence, where the receptionists
are helpful and polite, making
you feel instantly at ease. The
place is huge and roomy with
huge windows and corridors
opening into courtyards, giving
a fresh airy feel, and letting lots
of sunshine into the building.
In fact, big floor-length win-
dows seem prominent, making
maximum use of the beauty of
the surroundings to enhance
the resort. The corridors lead
into the courtyard, where you
might enjoy a sunny afternoon
sipping cold coffee and listen-
ing to charming forest sounds;
the rustling of the leaves, crick-
ets chirping or even the chatter-
ing of monkeys.
The Coffee Room and the Dur-
bar Restaurant and Bar are al-
ways open for delectable snacks
and tea, a few drinks, or din-
ner, in a long dining hall with
traditional Nepali furnishings,
jute tapestries and ornamental
masks hanging on the wall. The
rooms are decorated in similar
taste. Each of the 65 deluxe
rooms and suites display subtly
majestic Malla or Rana period
architecture and décor. The
rooms, both in the cottages dot-
ting the resort grounds or in the
Hunter Lounge, are spacious
and flooded with light, and are
kept immaculately clean. The
rooms, bright and with soft mut-
ed colors, have huge windows
opening to the forest or the golf
course grounds. Each room has
been lovingly prepared for opti-
mum comfort: a television, mini
snack bar, fresh flowers, a lap-
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 73
top with wireless facilities, and
even books for your enjoyment.
Of course, there is always room
service if you need anything at
all with the resort’s friendly, ef-
ficient staff always on call.
Moving on to the Harmony
Spa, - one of the highlights of
the resort. The Harmony Spa
combines therapeutic care with
a natural environment impos-
sible to recreate elsewhere. You
may want to indulge yourself in
the sauna, the steam room or
the Jacuzzi. Take a dip in the
temperature regulated indoor
swimming pool. Get a massage
in the Adam & Eve or Serenity
massage parlors. Get Ayurvedic
treatments in Ayura Ayurvedic
Center for complete relaxation
and rejuvenation. Primp up in
Apsara, the beauty treatment
center. Work up a sweat in the
well-equipped gym. The pos-
sibilities are endless. Or if you
want more natural and diverse
74 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
woods to sun themselves, fleet-
Nepal is famous for its culture and ing away shyly as golf carts am-
architecture, its hospitality, its natural ble by. The Clubhouse restau-
rant nearby serves delicious food
beauty, its cornucopia of flora and fauna for the golfers and guest alike,
and multiethnic people; Gokarna Resort and the Practice Range was re-
cently opened for novice golfers
displays every one of these aspects. to learn the exalted sport and
ways to while your time away David Kidd of Gleneagles Golf for veterans to hone their skills.
pleasantly, the 70 acre Gokarna Developments and is spread The Gokarna Golf Course also
forest provides limitless oppor- over 140 acres at 4,550 ft. above holds professional tournaments
tunities for bird watching, for- sea level; the 6,755 yard par 72 and matches often.
est walks and secluded picnics course boasts the only bent grass
within the forest. You can also greens on an 18 hole course in Nepal is famous for its culture
take tours of nearby shrines such South and S.E. Asia. Soft cush- and architecture, its hospitality,
as Shirdi Sai Baba temple next ions of local Bermuda fairways, its natural beauty, its cornuco-
to the Hunter’s Lodge, Bandevi lush unyielding forests, wind- pia of flora and fauna and multi-
Temple deep within the forest ing streams, undulating hills ethnic people; Gokarna Resort
and the famed Gokarneshwor and valleys opening into a holy displays every one of these as-
Mahadev temple. river’s plains make it the perfect pects. Guests leave the resort
place for harmonizing with na- relaxed and satisfied, with beau-
The main attraction, of course, ture while concentrating on a tiful pictures and good times set
is the sprawling 18 hole golf proper game of golf. Even mon- in their memories, and perhaps
course. Lauded as South Asia’s keys from the huge forest flank a little wistful of leaving this
finest, and one of the world’s the course, playing around in heavenly surreal sanctuary for
best Golf Courses, it is set with- the grounds unperturbed by the the mundane of their every day.
in 470 acres of the Gokarna For- game. During the afternoons,
est Reserve. It was designed by timid deer venture out of the
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 75
 Recommended restaurants&Bars
365 Restaurant with Hookah Bar Cafereena Dhaba Restaurant & Bar Green Organic Café & Salad Bar
Pulchowk, Lalitpur Sherpa Mall, Kathmandu Thapathali, Kathmandu Thamel, Kathmandu
Tel: 2110800 Tel: 4231313 Tel: 4100510 Tel: 4215726
Speciality: Arabian Speciality: Thai, Multi Speciality: Indian Speciality: Nepali, Continental

Baryo Fiesta Café de Patan Factory Himalayan Java Coffee Lounge

Naxal, Kathmandu Patan Durbar Square, Lalitpur Thamel Thamel
Tel: 4414395 Tel: 5537599 Tel:4701185 Tel:4422519
Speciality: Tandoori, Taas Speciality: Newari Foods Speciality: Multi Speciality: Multi

Bhojan Griha Pvt.Ltd Cherry Lounge & Bar Fire And Ice Hot Breads
Dillibazar Lazimpat, Opp. Shangrila Hotel Thamel New Road, Kathmandu
Tel:4411603 Mob: 9741 115143 Tel:4250210 Tel: 4429031
Speciality: Nepali Speciality: Cherry flavour drinks Speciality: Italian Speciality: Confectionery

Bhumi The Restro Lounge Chopstick Restaurant & Bar Flavour’s Café & Restaurant Holiday Karaoke Restaurant & Bar
Lazimpat, Kathmandu Buddhabari, Teku, Kathmandu Bouddha, Kathmandu Pani Pokhari, Kathmandu
Tel: 4412193 Tel: 4104503 Tel: 2140277 Tel: 4445731
Speciality: Newari Speciality: Chinese Cuisine Speciality: Chinese Speciality: South, East, Asian

Boddhi Garden Vegetarian Chez Caroline Ghangri’s Sumai Restaurat Kausi Kitchen Restaurant and Bar
Restaurant Babarmahal, Kathmandu Teku Woodland Complex
Maharajgunj, Kathmandu Tel: 4263070 Tel:4260630 Tel:4227288
Tel: 4721939 Speciality: French Speciality: Multi Speciality: Multi
Speciality: Various Veg Tastes
Delicatessen Center & Cafe Green Olive Restaurant & Khing Thai
Bourbon Room Durbar marg Shisha Bar Jp Road, Chaksibari Marg
Narayanhiti Marg, Kathmandu Tel:4221331 Chhetrapati Tel:4244378
Tel: 4441703 Speciality: Multi Tel:4212730 Speciality: Thai
Speciality: Continental, Italian, Speciality: Italian/Indian
Oriental

76 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

Koto Restaurant Tel: 4229032 Rice & Bowl Restaurant
Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Speciality: Chinese, Japanese Tripureshwor
Tel: 4226025 Tel:4260677
Speciality: Japanese Cuisine Mike’s Breakfast Speciality: Chinese
Naxal, Kathmandu
K-Too Bear & Steak House Tel: 4781104 Road House Cafe
Paryatan Marg, Kathmandu Speciality: American. Mexican, Pulchowk, Lalitpur
Tel: 4700043 Italian Tel: 5520524
Speciality: Thai Speciality: Italian
Moods Studio Lounge
La Dolce Vita Blue Bird Mall Red Dingo
Thamel Tel:4215740 Jawalakhel, Lalitpur
Tel:4700612 Speciality: Multi Cuisine Tel: 01-6914930
Speciality: Italian Speciality: Australian
Nepali Chulo Restaurant
Lakhe Restaurant & Bar Durbar Marg Royal Saino Restaurant & Bar
Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel:4220475 Durbar Marg, Kathmandu
Tel: 4256606 Speciality: Nepali Fixed Dinner Tel: 01-230890
Speciality: Lebanese, French, Speciality: Indian, Continental
Italian Nhuchhe’s Organic Bistro
Baluwatar, Kathmandu Royal Thai Restaurant
Layaku Restaurant Tel: 4414383 New Baneshwor, Kathmandu
Durbar Square, Bhaktapur Speciality: Organic Foods Tel: 4781104
Tel: 4781104 Speciality: Thai
Speciality: Multi OR2K
Thamel, Kathmandu Rum Doodle
Mama Mia Italia Restaurant Tel: 4422097 Thamel, Kathmandu
Thamel Speciality: Israeli, Arabian Tel: 4701107
Tel:2191729 Speciality: Steak & Pizza
Speciality: Italian Pizza Express
Lazimpat Seoul Arirang Korean Restaurant
Matsuri Tel:2161212 Nagpokhari, Kathmandu
Sherpa Mall, Kathmandu Speciality: Pizza Tel: 4429052
Speciality: Korean

The Ambiance
Restaurant & Bar
Mangal Bazar, Lalitpur
Tel: 5538980
Speciality: Multi

La Rotisserie Grilled Chicken & Walter

Sandwich & Ice Cream Parlor
Restaurant
Jawalakhel, Lalitpur Tel: 5530823
& Bar
Please
Contact for
Latest
Mouth
Watering
&
Selection...
It is an European style of cooking system, which
stops the spit for a period of 20 seconds in front
of heating element every 180 degrees. It allows
meat to constantly baste itself, sealing in natural
juices while letting fat drip off. The Rotisserie offer Baber Mahal Revisited, Kathmandu,
delicious, low-cholesterol, healthy grilled chicken
and many more to all of valued customers... Phone: + 977 (1) 425 3337
walters.restaurant.nepal@gmail.com

TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 77

 FOOdRINK

thakali thaliArguably the most popular Nepali cuisine of the hills, the
Thakali Thali like any other great recipe, also has a bit of
history attached to it.

Text by Yesha Malla

78 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

 The delectable combination of dal, bhat and tarkari is common in
every culture in Nepal but most will agree that nobody does it better
than the Thakalis of lower Mustang.
They’ll greet you warmly, treat you with the utmost
hospitality and welcome you to their abode with a hot
cup of tea and one of the most delicious cuisines in
all of Nepal. The Thakalis of Nepal are famed for their
warmth and most renowned for their food. So it is no
surprise that the small ethnic group that originated from
the steep Kali Gandaki (Thak Khola) region prides in
delicious, traditional food that has people licking their
fingers.
The delectable combination of dal, bhat and tarkari
is common in every culture in Nepal but most will
agree that nobody does it better that the Thakalis of
lower Mustang. As traders between India and Tibet,
the Thakalis adapted dishes and together with local
favorites, created a culinary tradition of their own.
Today the cuisine’s vegetarian-heavy mix
incorporates Tibetan, Indian, Bangladeshi,
and Chinese influences.
Though originally from Mustang, the
Thakalis have resettled in Kathmandu and in southern
Nepal. Thakalis outside their homeland follow a
syncretic form of Tibetan Buddhism heavily influenced
by Hinduism, while those in Mustang remain much
more traditionally Buddhist. The word Thakali comes
from the Tibetan “Thak” which means ‘distant country’.
Historically the Thakali region was the most remote
region under Tibetan influence. The Thakalis are divided
into four clans, and each clan has a distinct clan deity.
Folklore maintains that the ancestor of the Gauchan
clan, Ani Airam, went on a journey from his home in
Western Tibet to Sinja in Jumla, and met Samledhen
Samlecyang, the founder of the Tulachan clan, Dhakpa
Ghyalsang, the patriarch of the Sherchan clan and Paw
Kuti, the ancestor of the Bhattachan clan along the way.
The travelers then settled in the area now known as
Thak Khola and the Thakalis with their four
distinct clans came into existence; with
their own customs and traditions, living
in the arid slopes of the Himalayas
in the Mustang.

Thakali cuisine consists of a simple fare of
rice with lots of side dishes; quite similar
to any other cuisine in Nepal. What makes
it special is the variety, the visual appeal
of the dishes, the small quirks and special
techniques that makes the tastes so differ-
ent. Thakali food specializes in being less
spicy than its counterparts, and uses mel-
low spices such as timur. It introduces ex-
otic items to the menu, may it be ‘dhedo’, a
dish made of buckwheat (‘phaper’) flour, or
chyangra sukuti, which is dried meat of the
Himalayan sheep. It delights people with
the unusual green color of its black lentil
dal. For those who are curious about this
phenomenon, the green color - as the pro-
prietor of Mustang Thakali Chulo confid-
ed - is made by a special procedure of slow,
rigorous boiling of lentils in an iron pot
with turmeric, ginger and chili. The food
is tastefully arranged in the ‘thali’ (plate),
with rice or dhedo in the center surround-
ed by vegetables and pickles with as much
attention to color as to the taste. Bowls are
arranged to the right of the plate with the
dal closest, followed by soup and an array
of meat and vegetable dishes, appealing to
Typical Thakali Dhedo Set
both the aesthetic and the utilitarian senses
at the same time. Thakali food is also popu-
lar for its versatility and usefulness. Since it
is adapted for life in Mustang and uses in-
gredients that are more easily accessible in
steep and frigid mountain slopes, Thakali
food is preferred during long treks.
Thakali food starts off simple. The ubiq-
uitous piping hot Thakali tea or local ap-
ple brandy on the side, snacks such as
‘Kanchembo’, phaper French fries and
‘Khoken’, phaper rotis, are served first with
spicy sauces. Besides the completely bon-
afide and original Thakali dishes, there are
also familiar and generally Nepali foods
enjoyed as snacks and part of the Thakali
experience. The saladlike bhatmas chiura
is a bright, flavored appetizer of marinated
soybeans with ginger, garlic, chiles, cilant-
ro, and a bracing shot of mustard oil; mix
it with the crunchy, neutral-flavored dried
rice flakes served on the side. Sel roti, a
savory/sweet fried doughnut of rice flour
and banana, and momos, steamed dump-
lings are also favorites. A creamy, white
bean soup may be served next, or perhaps a
green palak (spinach) soup.
The main course would be the afore-
mentioned thali of delicious proportions;
steamed rice or a glistening mound of
dhedo topped with ghiu – clarified butter
– surrounded by vegetables such as spin-
ach or mustard leaves, piquant tomato and
radish and chili pickles, and chutney with
a touch of timur. The basically flavorless
rice or dhedo is also well complemented
with chicken or mutton curry and fried po-
tatoes. ‘Gundruk’ is a singular tangy side
dish unique to Nepal which is made of fer-
mented vegetables and served as soup. An-
other fermented dish unique to the Thakali
cuisine is the ‘kinema’ made of soyabeans.
Lyetpo khu is another exotic dish made
with the head of a goat - all organs included

TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 79

Thakali food singlehandedly Where to eat
represents the very essence 1.

Tukuche Thakali Kitchen
Durbarmarg, Kathmandu
of the indigenous Thakali 2. Mustang Thakali Chulo
Thamel, Kathmandu
people; their hospitality and 3. Spicy Affair
Jyatha, Kathmandu
their identity as well as the 4. Marpha Thakali Restaurant
unique cuisines of Nepal as Teku, Kathmandu

a whole.
- diced into small pieces and cooked with timur, salt, garlic
and chili powder. Another variation is the gidifal, made
of the brains (‘gidi’) of a goat. You can wash down the
dishes with alcohol - apple/apricot brandy, uwa (a
kind of crop similar to wheat) ko raksi or jhwaikat-
te - or salty tea, a specialty of the Thakalis made of
special tea leaves saturated in milk, ghiu, and salt.
Rice puddings are often eaten as dessert. Phopkee is
a delicious dessert made of fermented rice which is
usually served warm.
With such varied delightful treats on offer, and the com-
pany of the charming Thakali people, it is no wonder people get
excited and maybe even salivate at the very mention of
Thakali food. Thakali food singlehandedly repre-
sents the very essence of the indigenous Thakali
people, their hospitality and their identity as well
as the unique cuisines of Nepal as a whole. En-
joy Thakali cuisine on your trekking trips in Ne-
pal, or in any one of the many popular Thakali
restaurants in Kathmandu for an authentic gas-
tronomical experience.
Special thanks to Tukuche Thakali Restaurant and Mustang Thakali
Chulo.

TIMES 09

authentic flavour from china

Tian Rui Chinese Restaurant & Bar Pvt. Ltd. 10% discount for clients of Himalayan Bank Ltd.
Thapathali, Kathmandu, Phone: 4243078,  Fax: 4249162 card holders and ACE Development Bank Ltd. ‘Ace
Email - tianruiktm@yahoo.com Nari Bachatt’ card holders

80 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 81
 NATURE&WILDLIFE

Himalayan
Flora & Fauna
Trekking in Nepal is more than just for the
adrenaline rush and the great views. The
mountains are a treasure trove for an amazing
array of flora and fauna.
Life can be quite tenacious. Living proof would be the ability
of living things to adapt almost everywhere - from the molten
depths of the earth to the dry expanse of the deserts, and even
more incredibly, in the coldest reaches of the Himalayas. The
frigid climates and steep landscapes of the Himalayas have an
astonishing multitude of flora and fauna which lure people
with their sheer versatility and enhance the ethereal beauty of
the mountainous region. The Himalayas have been successful
in pulling in travelers and tourists from all around the world
with this exotic wildlife and natural exquisiteness.

An example of the biodiversity implied here is the tree popula-

Text by Prita Malla
tion spread throughout the Himalayas. The western part of the
Photo Courtesy: WWF
Himalayas has forests of blue pine, spruce, silver fir, junipers,
conifers deodar and chir pine while the eastern Himalayan re-
gion is covered with maple, rhododendrons, alder, birch, oak,
laurel and dwarf willows. The biodiversity of the Himalayas
synched with its geographical features is truly an impressive
biological feat. The best way to capture the true essence of
the Himalayas with its exotic flora and fauna is to experience
it yourself. And what better way to do this but to trek through
amazing trails in the mountains!

82 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

 The Himalayas have a number of popular
trails to offer. If you are looking to combine
sightseeings of flora and fauna with some
serious hiking, the Makalu Barun region
trek is for you. High in the heart of the east-
ern Himalayan, seven valleys radiate from
Mt. Makalu; these valleys, particularly the
Barun valley, have some of the most pris-
tine forests and alpine meadows in the
country. The area has some of the richest
and most diverse pockets of plants and ani-
mals in Nepal, lost elsewhere to spreading
human habitation.
The unique landscape shelters some amaz-
ing but slowly disappearing pristine moun-
tain ecosystems. Rare species of animals
and plants flourish in these diverse cli-
mates and habitats, relatively undisturbed
by mankind. Over 3000 different species of
flowering plants, 440 species of birds, and
75 species of mammals, including the en-
dangered clouded leopard, red panda and
musk deer, have been sighted here.
The incredibly steep topography and abun-
dant monsoon rains of the eastern Hima-
layas support unusually diverse bioclimatic
zones. Alpine pastures above 4000 meters
contain dwarf rhododendron, juniper,
aromatic herbs and delicate wildflowers
including 47 different varieties of orchids.
These colorfully varied flowers are visited
by an equally chromatic and diverse variety
of butterflies. Sub-alpine forests of fir, birch
and rhododendron, and temperate stands
of oak, maple and magnolia thrive in this
area. Luxuriant orchids drape the chestnut
and pine forests of the subtropical zone and
sal forests reach their northern-most limit
within Nepal along the banks of the Arun
River. The park has about 400 species of
birds, including some rare species like the
spotted wren babbler and the olive ground
warbler; rarely seen elsewhere in Nepal.
There are many wild animals including
the endangered red panda, Himalayan
black bear and the clouded leopard.
Other wildlife found in the park are
the ghoral, tahr, wild boar, barking
deer, Himalayan marmot and wea-
sel, common langur monkey and
the serow.
At a higher altitude, the Everest
Base Camp trek also offers diverse
flora and fauna besides the views,
quite literally, from the top of the
world. Although a moderately diffi-
cult trek, novice and seasoned trek-
kers alike fill up the trails during the
pre-winter trekking months of October and
November. One of the major attractions of
the Everest Base Camp area is the famed
Sagarmatha National Park. It is surely one
of the most beautiful places on earth, even
more so in the summer months of July and Over 3000 different
August. After the first monsoon rains in
June, different kinds of plants grow rapidly.
species of flowering plants,
The hillsides turn a lush green and a vari- 440 species of birds, and
ety of flowers start blooming. Butterflies of
myriad species appear in iridescent colors. 75 species of mammals,
The park is home to 118 species of birds and including the endangered
26 species of butterflies along with many
flora and fauna. Vegetation in the park var- clouded leopard, red
ies from pine and hemlock forests at lower
altitudes to fir, juniper, birch and rhodo-
panda and musk deer,
dendron woods at mid-elevations. The have been sighted here.

Snow LEopard Alpine Accentor Tibetan Snowcock Red Panda

Uncia uncia, is smaller than the
other big cats with long thick fur with
whitish undersides. They have dark
grey to black open rosettes on their
body with spots of the same color on
their heads, legs and tail
Photo by: Martin Harvey/ WWF-Canon
Prunella collaris, is a small passerine
bird found at heights above 2000m. It
has a streaked brown back but adults
have a grey head and red-brown
spotting on the undersides. It has an
insectivore’s fine pointed bill.
Photo by: Wenzel Prokosch
Tetraogallus tibetanus, is found
in 5,000–6,000 m in the Western
Himalayas. Its height can range in
between 50–56 cm and is easily
distinguished from other snowcocks
by its white undersides with heavy
blackish streaks on flanks.
Photo by: Haris Rai/ WWF Nepal
Ailurus fulgens, also called the Firefox
or Lesser Panda is a small arboreal
mammal. Slightly larger than a
domestic cat, it has reddish-brown fur,
a long, shaggy tail, and a waddling
gait due to its shorter front legs.
Photo by: Peter Prokosch

TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 83

Noble Rhubarb
Rheum nobile, is a giant herbaceous
plant native to the Himalaya found in
alpine zones at 4000-4800 meters.
At 1-2 meters, it is a conical tower
of delicate, straw-colored, shining,
translucent, regularly overlapping
bracts.
Rhododendron
Rhododendron spp. is a genus
characterized by shrubs and small
to (rarely) large trees, the smallest
species growing to 10-100 cm tall, and
the largest, R. giganteum, reported to
over 30 m tall.
Cypress Vine
Ipomoea quamoclit, with its tiny
slender-tubed starry flowers and
gossamer foliage, is the member of
the morning glory family. An annual
twining climber with deeply cut,
feather-fine leaves, it blooms from
early summer until early fall.
Marigold
Tagetes spp is an annual and
perennial herbaceous plant in the
daisy family. The different species
have pinnate green leaves and white,
golden, orange, yellow to almost red
floral heads generally with both ray
florets and disc florets.

Photo by: Bhesh R. Oli/ WWF Nepal Photo by: Wenzel Prokosch Photo by: Wenzel Prokosch Photo by: Wenzel Prokosch

The treks may be long and strenuous with a harsh climate

to boot, but with the bounty of nature you’ll enjoy, the
back aches and the sore knees are quite worth it.
famed bloom of rhododendrons which ren-
ders entire hills to change color occurs dur-
ing the spring although much of the flora is
most colorful during the monsoon season.
The park is the prime habitat for Himalayan
tahrs, deer, langur, hares, mountain foxes,
martens, and Himalayan wolves. Some of
the endangered animals that are found in
this park are wild yak, musk deer, red pan-
da, snow leopard and the Himalayan black
bear. The most common birds seen are the
Impeyen pheasant, blood pheasant, cheer
pheasant, jungle crow, red billed and yel-
low billed coughs and snow pigeon.
The Langtang trek is another treat for na-
ture enthusiasts. Because this trail ascends
gradually along a river valley, it is not con-
sidered strenuous (even this scribe has been
to Kyangjin and back). So if you are like
me – someone who loves nature but tires
easy - then this trek is definitely for you! It
offers an excellent opportunity to explore
biodiversity as well as great views of glaciers
and the mountains.
graded climatic conditions in the central
Himalayas. The complex topography and
geology together with the varied climatic
patterns have enabled a wide spectrum of
vegetation which includes small areas with
subtropical forests. Oaks, chir pine, maple,
fir, blue pine, hemlock spruce and various
species of rhododendron make up the main
forest species.
The variation in altitude and topography
along with the existing forest cover provide
habitat for a wide range of animals such as
wild dog, red panda, pika, muntjac, musk
deer, Himalayan black bear, Himalayan
tahr, ghoral, serow, rhesus monkey and
common langur.
With so many choices for trekking, one can
easily explore the glory of the Himalayas.
The treks may be long and strenuous with a
harsh climate to boot, but with the bounty
of nature you’ll enjoy, the back aches and
the sore knees are quite worth it. So pack
your backpacks and get ready for the heady
magic of the Himalayas!

The Langtang trek starts from Syabru Besi

following a trail up the Bhote Kosi River to
the wide spread lush greens of the Kyangin
valley surrounded by snowy peaks from all
sides. It offers some of the best examples of

84 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

 Kathmandu

FIRST REVOLVING RESTAURANT OF NEPAL

Ratna Plaza, Newroad, Kathmandu
Contact: 4241712
For Reservation : 9851091404 / 9851091629 (Bishal)
Website: www.revolving.com.np
Step in for some delicious :
Indian Cuisine Chinese Cuisine
Nepali Cuisine Continental Cuisine

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TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 85

 ataleofvagabond
&
The Travelling
Twosome
Valeriy Garkaln & Nadia Neupokoeva
Valeriy and Nadia give pointers on how to
make the most of your travels and list some
of their most memorable travels. To know
more about them and their delightful travels,
Travel Times caught up with them. Here are
some brief excerpts from the conversation.
86 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
Travelling can be both incredibly enriching
and exhausting. What made you so
enthusiastic about travelling?
During the last few years travelling has been taking a lot
of time and space in our lives. We are a travelling couple
and different things motivate us to travel such as our in-
terest in people, their culture and more importantly the
abundance of natural beauties all around the world. We
think we have given our due to the big cities so we are
now trying to travel outside of such areas. Travelling can
exhaust you if you are worried about something. If you
have peace in your soul and trust people, then you can
travel without anxiety, which allows the best travelling
experience.
From the professional point of view we aren’t ‘travel pho-
tographers’. Our pictures are intended for decoration
purposes and for books and websites. We get new ideas
and concepts from the places we visit for photo-reports
and art-exhibitions. Each element – earth, water, air, fire
and space – represents the universe in many aspects. We
try to find the sources of this beauty in any existing thing

We took the small trial, the right bank of Kali Gandaki
River, this place famous for the strong everyday wind.
and then we share our findings with the rest
of the world with great pleasure. This is our
main reason to travel.
How do you plan your trips? Do you
have rules that you abide by while
travelling?
As a freelance art-photographer and research-
er we don’t have a set of rules for travelling.
Usually when we start, we don’t even know
when we will be back. We mostly take one
way tickets. This kind of travelling changes
our notion of ‘home’. Home for us is any place
where we stay together which can include all
the territory of our travel. So, when we start,
even if we have a fixed time, we prepare our-
selves for a long journey and try to organize a
homely environment with each other in any
place. We often change our minds and stay
longer than planned in some places if we
feel like it. A new idea, a partner’s invitation
or new project can have us packing. We are
ready to start all over again! But we do have
some general travelling rules:
1. Travelling together is always better than
travelling alone.
2. We tend to travel during the off-season.
We try to go around the “mainstream”. It
is not a good idea to stay on the line to
Everest!
3. We try to have an “open roadmap” and an
open mind. Who knows what you see or
who you meet at the next corner?
4. Every time we start travelling, we also try
to incorporate our inner travel as well.
This is very important for us to have
multi-faceted travelling. We need to
find a balance between external physical
movement and internal condition.
5. Create breaks in between travels. A good
break will aid in choosing the next move.
6. If you are not travelling alone – try to
“breathe together” with your companion.
7. Move slowly.
Name one place where could you go
back to over and over again.
For us that place is definitely Upper Tsum
Valley in the Trans Himalyan region of Nepal.
The people are very hospitable; they made us
feel like we were one of their own. We would
to love to visit Tsum Valley again. It is located
3000 m above sea level and is perfect with
bright sun light, fresh air and crystal clear wa-
ter – what more could one ask for? We dream
of visiting Tsum in spring, summer and win-
ter time as well.
Is there anywhere you haven’t been
that you’d like to go?
We both long to visit one area in Far East
Russian–Kamchatka Peninsula. It is quite far
away from St. Petersburg. Hopefully, we will
get there one day.
What have been your greatest chal-
lenges and rewards as avid travel-
lers?
All kinds of difficulties can be overcome with
a real friend, be it hot or cold weather, strong
winds, high altitude or even monsoon rain-
fall. We have an interesting anecdote, from
once when we were trekking from Jomsom
to Kagbeni in the Annapurna area. We took
the small trail through the right bank of Kali
Gandaki River, which is famous for strong
winds. We reached the small village Phalyak
(higher than the main trail) during the sunset.
There wasn’t a single guest house or lodge in
sight. As it became darker, the winds became
colder and stronger. But from this place we
were able to observe an absolutely fascinating
view – the valley was flooded with evening
light and above the clouds, three golden snow
Interests
Traveling, photography, psychology,
interior design, collaborations with
people in different projects in social
area
Education
Valeriy: Russian State University for
the Humanities, Historical department
(Moscow), Moscow State University,
Journalist Department, Member of
the Union of Russian Journalists and
International Federation of Journalists
Nadia: State Pedagogical University,
Historical department (St.Petersburg),
East-Europe Institute of Psychoanalysis,
PhD, Member of the St. Petersburg
Union of Scientists
Occupation
Valeriy: Photographer, fine-art designer,
photo-journalist
Nadia: researcher, psycho-therapist,
project coordinator
Philosophy
We draw our life using the wind palette
and water streams
Countries visited
India (long time living), Russia (many
places), Europe – many countries, Tibet,
Thailand, Sri Lanka, United Kingdom,
United States and Nepal
Types of People We enjoy
We enjoy open and creative people
from any place as well as active people
who are not afraid of starting something
new. At the same time we try to support
people devoted to what we think are
good traditions because both of them –
creators and keepers - save our human
world. Teach, Learn, Share, Stop twitch,
breathe deep, Open your eyes, and
believe in yourself
Current location
St.Petersburg, Russia
Few words to the readers and
Travel Times
We believe that people can manage
together with any challenge
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 87
peaks stood like three brothers in infinite
quietness. The view made us forget about
the cold wind. The evening later turned
into a warm and friendly one at a local fam-
ily’s house. The local “tentup” soup was so
tasty and the hostess’ smile was so lovely.
The trip was quite rewarding.
What are your personal natural
or manmade seven wonders?
Our seven wonders :
1. Nataraja Temple, Chidambaram, Tam-
il Nadu – the most impressive place that
we’ve ever been to.
2. Patan, Kathmandu Valley, Nepal – Arts
and beauty were born here. If you can
spend time here, you can almost feel the
breath of centuries.
3. Baikal Lake, East Siberia, Russia – The
huge blue eye of our planet.
4. Shanti Stupa in Leh, Ladakh – You can
spend so much time here in absolute
Shanti
5. Swoyambhu Nath, Kathmandu Valley,
Nepal – Self-created wonder.
6. Gomukh Glacier, Gangotri, Ut-
taranchal Pradesh, India – The origin
of the Ganga and the glacial area which
can be observed from the Tapoban.
7. Kanyakumari, South India.
What does travel teach you? What
have you learned about yourself
through your travels?
When we travel there are possibilities of
meeting interesting people, finding knowl-
edge, improving our professional skills,
being inspired, finding new and more in-
teresting routes and being productive. As
we have been traveling for a while now, we
have come to understand that there are no
borders or boundaries in reality, the borders
are figments of imagination inside one’s
mind.
You’ve been to Nepal several
times now. What do you think sets
88 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
Nepal apart from other travel
destinations?
We know the most common answer for this
question would be the Himalayas. But we
feel that there is something else that makes
Nepal different - its people. Another out-
standing thing would be the diversity and
richness of people and culture in such a
small area. For Russian people this is quite
remarkable – after our huge territory with
long distances. Travelling in Nepal, you
have the possibility to start from a tropical
jungle to rich snowy mountains within a
very short time. Russian travellers are used
to moving for long durations. Nepal helped
us change our mind and to start travelling in
a more of a three-dimensional space.
Nepal is popular for its many
trekking trails. How have your
trekking experiences been in
Nepal?
Speaking about trekking, except for high-
altitude mountaineering, we have been
through most trekking routes in Nepal. On
each classical trek, one can find something
interesting. Everybody needs to try trekking
once. We have made one general observa-
tion: usually people look happier when they
have enough time on the trek. Time is nec-
essary not only for “physical training” on
the route but also for breaks to fully enjoy
nature and to look at the non-manifested
world. You can lose very much if you run
without stopping, without the possibility to
look around and inside.
How would you rate Nepal against
all the other places that you have
travelled to?
Nepal is a favourite destination for travelling
for us. You have every kind of travel possibility
here. There are a few things about Nepal that
truly fascinate us.
1. The relationships between people in the
Himalayas
2. The cascade of the sacred lakes on the way
Travelling in Nepal you have
the possibility to start from
a tropical jungle to rich
snowy mountains within a
very short time.
to Gosainkunda.
3. Forests during the rhododendron blossom-
time
4. Everest skydiving - it is a tremendous ad-
venture.
5. The religious tolerance in Nepal.
6. The Upper Tsum Valley - the most bal-
anced place between people and nature
which we have seen
If you had to settle in one place,
where would it be?
Right now we cannot imagine such a place.
It is our wish to move from the South to
North depending on seasons. Moving from
place to place and learning new things is
very important for us.
What advice and/or warnings
would you give to aspiring
travellers?
Don’t hurry too much. Try to listen to the
spirit of a place. Having an interest in cre-
ating new projects, we are always open to
new ideas and suggestions. We hope our
common activities will improve the qual-
ity of life and bring happiness and joy. We
urge all the people in Nepal to save not
only Himalayan nature but human rela-
tions as well.
We invite interesting people for
collaborations!
e-mail: n_neupokoeva@mail.ru
neupokoeva@gmail.com
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 89
 perfecttaKeAWAYS

Text by Sumit Sharma and Yesinia Pd

90 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

Historically, incense has been used for at
least 5000 years - to accompany prayer, to
worship the Gods, purify air, release nega-
tive vibrations, induce self-awareness and
to uplift emotional states. In ancient texts,
there have been descriptions of incense be-
ing burnt to fill the heart with euphoria and
uplift the mind to its highest state. In both
Hindu and Buddhist tradition incense has
been used to create a favorable atmosphere
for both prayer and meditation.
Categorized broadly in three categories, all
incense serves similar purposes. The goal
being to cure, remove or chase away any
bad feelings or notions through purifica-
tion of the air, mind and body. Herbs used
in the making of medicinal and healing
incense are the same herbs used to make
herbal medicine. The herbs, minerals and
resins are shared ingredients in herbal
medicines which are still practiced suc-
cessfully till this day and age. Even without
the similarities to herbal medicine, herbal
or medicinal incense is very strong and is
recommended for people having stress and
asthma disorders.
Although medicinal incense seems to be
the flag carrier of the incense tradition, it
is not. Rather aromatic incense, with sooth-
ing and calming abilities is more popular
among locals and foreigners alike. Com-
ing in an array of different flavors and fra-
grances, there is enough incense to tingle
anyone’s smell buds. No matter how the
ingredients smell individually, they are
carefully proportioned and put together so
that the end consumer gets a whole some
experience by lighting just one stick of
incense. Popular incense sticks in this cat-
egory are Tashi incense, sweet incense and
mixed aromatic incense.
Finally, the incense least sought out by for-
eigners is prayer incense. These are used
locally while praying and worshiping gods.
Worshippers of both Hindu and Bud-
dhist beliefs use incense in their rites
and their prayers. This type of incense,
usually non aromatic, is produced
and sold locally and if anyone has
a desire to use them, they can be
found in Ason, the old city mar-
ket in Kathmandu.
After the exile of the Dalai
Lama from Tibet some fifty or so
years ago, many Tibetan monks
moved south of the Tibetan
border into Nepal, Bhutan and
India. These monks set up mon-
asteries, and at these monaster-
ies, following age old tradition and
using secret ingredients perfected
through generations of use, incense
sticks are handmade till this day. The
most basic incense sticks have a hand-
ful of ingredients, while the more ex-
pensive or the more powerful ones are
said to have a mixture of one hundred
elements; minerals, flowers, herbs, resins,
roots, sandal wood, etc. Ingredients used
The goal being to
cure, remove or chase
away any bad feelings
or notions through
purification of air,
mind and body.
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 91
 in each incense stick can be as common as
when you pick up a household materials such as cloves and cin-
box of incense as namon and as exotic as the extracts of rare
Himalayan flowers and red sandalwood.
a souvenir for a
loved one back home, Getting a hold of incense sticks is rela-
tively easy. One can easily roam the streets
remember that you’re of Thamel, Ason or Bouddha and find
incense of all different types. If you’ve al-
taking something that ready missed out on getting incense sticks
has been a part of our here in the market, exporters have web por-
tals and have foreign trade partners, mak-
culture for hundreds ing Tibetan incense available around the
of years and holds world. Despite the online availability of
such products, its best to buy the incense
immense historical and after a test run to make sure it doesn’t con-
tain anything you may be allergic to!
emotional value.
92 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
A large proportion of the incense sticks
made here are shipped off to Europe. Due
to the quality of the raw materials used in
its making and its healing, medicinal and
mystic qualities, incense is a big business in
western markets.
Through diversity, unification, rebellion
and revolution, the tradition of using in-
cense has survived and will continue to sur-
vive as a cornerstone of Nepalese culture.
So, when you pick up a box of incense as
a souvenir for a loved one back home, re-
member that you’re taking something that
has been a part of our culture for hundreds
of years and holds immense historical and
emotional value.
Incense at a Glance:
Normal Length
15 cm, 30 cm
Types
Prayer, Meditation,
Healing, Tranquility,
Serenity, Snow Lion
Availability
Thamel, Bouddha, Ason
For more information on incense:
nature’s gift incense center
(Manufacturer, Wholesaler and Retailer)
Thamel Chowk, Kathmandu
Tel.: 4421528
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 93
 festivalwatch

The
Philosophical Concept
Mha Puja
The omnipotent and omnipresent existential moment of
of

life is embossed upon performing Mha Puja by the Newar
community in Nepal. Mha puja is a grand celebration observed
every year in recognition of existential moments of life on the
first day of Nepal Sambat; the new year’s day of the Newar
community. The New Year brings with it the lush and fresh
fruiting season, the autumn; when life comes in bloom with the
products of mother earth. This is a celebration that recognizes
human worth, dignity, and prestige.
Mha puja bears a deep sense of blessing the self for right
conscience and right performance for all righteousness to
disseminate inner light. This Vedic version is the conceptual
essence of mha puja. The light of life glows from within us, this
warmth entails all along the existential moments. It needs to
be energized through continuous effort at all turns of life. The
blazing oil fed wick is lighted in manifesting self existence.

Text by Tejeswar Babu Gongah

94 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES

Mandap
The mandap drawn in front of a person
during the festival represents the luminous
bodies in the universe and our planet earth
in particular. All beings inclusive of human
beings are the honey of the earth while the
earth itself is a hive of all beings. Before the
mandap is drawn, a mark is made with wa-
ter which is then dressed up on top with
mustard oil, colorful decoration using ver-
milion powder being added later on. The
tracing of this mandap with water is to pu-
rify the ground and oil is used to impress
the event for a longer period of time. The
illumination that is made over the mandap
signifies enlightenment inherent inside
each person.
course of time it took luxurious shape, yet
the essence is embedded on it in its true
meaning. Mari sagun is another symbol of
blessing to the observant of the mha puja.
The sweets have an added sweetness com-
passioned with making and converging
life.
Khein Sagun comprises of four elements,
woh, with a lintel cake as the base, khein- a
boiled egg, a deep fried single small fish,
and meat that is first boiled then fried.
Khein represents birds that fly over the
blue sky. The fish represent the sea and the
waters. The meat represents wilderness and
around the neck signifies concentration.
Nothing seems plausible in absence of
concentrated effort. The oil fed wick lamp
is a symbol of self enlightenment. Even
the walnut has a symbolic meaning. It is
hard externally yet contains softer and tasty
edibles inside it, the message being - how-
ever hard and tough the surface might be
look, a soft element must remain in the
depth of being. The external toughness is
for a strong physique displaying mental or
moral firmness. This is where one might
derive aesthetic sense inherent in cultural
symbolism.

Sagun
The puja sagun is offered by the senior
woman in the house. The ceremony is
performed in a sequential order from the
elderly to the young. Sagun is expressed
through eight objects: a) Manda (circle
with decoration) b) Mata (Light) c) Puja
(Self-Worship) d) Dhau (Yogurt) e) Si
(Fruits) f) Wasah (Garments) g) Mari
(Sweets) h) Khein (Egg).

Eight fold sagun are also addressed as Asta-

mangala – the eight fold excellence in life.
The eightfold saguns symbolically mani-
fest philosophical, emotional, material,
tangible and intangible objects in human
surroundings. Mandap is the manifestation
of the stars, planets and nebulas in the uni-
verse. Mata the blazing light manifests the
light from within us. The Puja ceremony
is recognition of human worth and dignity
that each individual possesses. Dhau (yo-
gurt) symbolizes the full moon. Dhau sa-
gan is offered with a sense of blessing that
you may be like a full moon; capacitated
with an ability to keep away darkness even
at night. The dignities of life do get em-
bossed through human worth.
The si (fruits) is the emblem of the human
worth - the worth to produce any com-
mendable object for human consump-
tion. This is where one would sense the
emotions underlying culture - the human
heritage at large. Wasah (clothing) is one
of the basic needs of human beings. In due
Khein sagun conveys a blissful non-verbal message, “May
you have a wonderful journey in air, on water and even in
the wilderness.”
the jungles. Khein sagun conveys a blissful Considering human life and evidential
non-verbal message, “May you have a won- aroma, citrus fruit varieties are presented
derful journey in air, on water and even in on the eve of mha puja. Symbolically, this
the wilderness.” fruit is not only large in shape and size but
contains huge amount of fleshy edible el-
Life is blissful and people have learnt to
ements. The skinny layer/strata are quite
give meaning to this blissful act through
thin. Deep yellow color attracts and draws
performance. A blissful life is one which
attention of the onlooker. The contents of it
is blessed with a blissful heart and mind.
are useful for medicinal purposes in many
Wishful blessings are all but an emblem of
ways. The symbolic meaning attached to is
good heart and mind. Since life is a contin-
all about blessing and wishes upon the life
ued journey one needs a perennial shower
in existence.
of blessings throughout life which have a
positive psychological impression on the Mha puja is celebrated thus – a colorful,
human psyche. joyous celebration of life and all that it has
to offer.
Each and every object used during the eve
of mha puja has deep sense of symbolism.
The jajanka (cotton thread) that is worn

TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 95

 Mha Puja
Nepal Pavillion Company brought
together nationals from Russia, Germany
and Spain to spread the good word on the
Newari festival of Mha Puja.
Observed on the Newar New Year’s Day by the
Newar people, Mha puja the worship of the in-
ner self, is believed to purify, strengthen and
understand oneself. Mha puja is unique as it
is the only occasion when a person worships
himself or herself. Newars believe that one
should learn about oneself and respect one’s
role in the world before trying to understand
others. Mha puja is purification, strengthening
and understanding of oneself for prosperity and
physical well being. Like many other Newari
festivals, Mha puja is exclusive to Newar cul-
ture and people.
However, this does not mean that people from
other cultures or religions cannot join in on the
celebrations. On October 12, 2009, the court-
yard at Dwarika’s Hotel was decorated with
colorful mandaps, fragrant flowers and allur-
ing lights. Nepal Pavilion had held this special
Mr. Naresh P. Shrestha
md, Nepal Pavilion Company
How did this concept of performing
Mha puja materialized?
For the last 11 years NPC has been organizing trade fairs
around the world. It was here I thought of integrating
our culture along with trade and tourism. Then last year,
few days before the Laxmi Puja, I was talking to the Rus-
sian Ambassador who said he was keen on attending
96 NOVEMBER 2009 TIMES
Mha Puja for expatriates to familiarize them
with this unique tradition. Many people from
different nationalities attended with childlike
enthusiasm. There were a total of 16 partici-
pants from Russia, Spain and Germany. All of
them had the opportunity to experience a tradi-
tional ceremony of self-blessing with lights and
flowers surrounding them. Just like any other
Newari festival, this was celebrated with full
vigor and cheerful revelry. All the participants
had a sense of achievement and a satisfied smile
in their faces even after the ceremony.
Laura from Germany said that this was in-
deed a special experience for her. As a matter
of fact the following day was her 18th birthday
and after performing the puja she felt blessed
and very pleased. Jose Manuel Vilanova, from
Spain said that this was a truly amazing experi-
ence and would love to participate again if this
the Mha puja. I held talks with the Tourism Board on this
idea but to no avail so I decided to conduct this event
myself. Last year we had nationalities from Russia, Thai-
land and Canada. This year, the Russian TV crew came
to feature this event and other cultures of our country so
we continued this trend.
What are your future plans?
After such success of this event I want to take this on
an international level. I know managing such cultural
events on foreign lands will be difficult, but let’s hope
for the best. I also have plans of focusing other unique
festivals like Holi and Ehee or Bel Bibaha. Similarly I am
also working on the promotion of Nepali foods from all
the geographic regions of Nepal, such as Makhana from
Terai, Quati from the Hills, and Tibetan tea from Himala-
yas. These foods give the authentic flavor of our country
and therefore should be promoted.
Any message that you’d like to give to
the readers of Travel times?
I am gravely disappointed by the fact that at present
kind of opportunity came about in the future.
Mrs Smirnov Elena from TV channel Kultura,
Russia said that these kinds of festivals were an
interesting way of bringing people closer and
understanding cultures. After all, there is a
huge difference in being a spectator and expe-
riencing it for oneself.
This is indeed a unique attempt at promoting
and preserving Nepali culture by the Nepal
Pavilion Company. The company was estab-
lished in 1997 with an aim to organize and
manage national and international events. It
has been working to promote Nepal as a tour-
ism destination in national and international
market through various travel trade fairs since
then. Below are some excerpts from the con-
versation Travel Times had with Mr. Naresh P.
Shrestha, Managing Director of Nepal Pavilion
Company:
tourism here only mteans airlines, hotels, rafting and
travel agencies. When foreigners come to Nepal they
don’t come to see the hotel and the airlines; they come
to experience the local flavors and its ethnicity. Tour-
ism they say is the backbone of our economy but still
only some segments of this industry are getting the
benefits.
Another thing that I strongly believe is that it is high time
now to explore new possibilities for tourism develop-
ment. Yes, I do agree that we have the Himalayas and
popular sites like Bhaktapur, Patan, Pokhara and Lum-
bini bringing many tourists here, but my question is: why
are we solely dependent on them? Our country is multi-
cultured; there is an immense possibility to combine
culture and tourism here. I am not saying that promoting
these places is a bad thing, but we need to move on and
explore our other potentials. If we come up with good
marketing techniques then I am sure we can reach a
wider audience and bring in more tourists.
TIMES NOVEMBER 2009 97

DAY 01 CAN
Arrive in Guangzhou Airport, meet
our representative and transfer
to 3* Overseas Hotel/ United Star
Hotel or similar. (Official Check in:
1200 hrs). Enjoy half day City tour
in Guangzhou to Six Banyan Tree
Temple and Chen Clan Temple. Visit
Pedestrian Street and Qingping
Market (B/L/D)
DAY 02 CAN/PEK
Transfer to the airport for the flight
to Beijing, upon arrival, meet our
representative and transfer to 3*
Peixin Hotel or similar. Later, enjoy
the Half day tour to Temple of
Heaven. (B/L/D)
DAY 03 PEK
The day’s sightseeing begins
with a visit to the heart of
Beijing, Tiananmen Square and
the Forbidden City. Explore its
Chambers and view the priceless
treasures of China’s past. From the
bustling energy of the city, move on
to the tranquil retreat of the Summer
Palace with its shimmering lakes.
(B/L/D)
DAY 04 PEK
Continue your tour to Beijing with
a visit to the historical Ming Tombs.
After lunch, experience your journey
to the Great Wall, one of the Seven
Wonders of the World and stroll along
this incredible place, the only man-
made structure visible from space!
Enjoy the breathtaking view! (B/L/D)
DAY 05 PEK/SHA
Transfer to the airport for the flight
to Shanghai, upon arrival, meet our
representative and transfer to 3*
Zhongxin Hotel or similar. Later after
the lunch, enjoy the Half day tour to
the Bund and Nanjing Road. (B/L/D)
DAY 06 SHA
The day starts with the sightseeing
98 NOVEMBER 2009
TRIPCLIPPER
u A
CHIN uangzho
in G Beijing
in
1 Nightights Shanghai
3N in
2 Nights
journey to the Jade Buddha Temple,
and Yu Garden in the old town. Visit
Pudong New Area and New World
Acrobatics (B/L/D)
DAY 07 SHA/CAN/ KTM
Free time till the departure transfer
to the airport to take the flight
back to Guangzhou. Transfer to
connecting flight for the flight back
to Kathmandu by CZ-3068. (B)
PACKAGE EXCLUSIONS
• Airfare Insurance Tax
• Visa Fee for China
• Tips to Guides and drivers
• Other services not mentioned in
the itinerary
PACKAGE INCLUSIONS
• Airfare KTM/ CAN/ KTM
• Domestic flight airfare with tax
CAN/PEK/SHA/CAN
• Round-trip transfers between air-
port and hotel
• 6 nights hotel accommodation
with 6 breakfasts inside hotel
• Lunches and dinners as per men-
tioned in the itinerary
• Excursion and services men-
tioned in the itinerary
• An English speaking guide
For booking or further enquiry,
contact at:
Gorkha Travels Pvt. Ltd.
Marcopolo Business Complex
P.O.B. 629, Kamalpokhari, KTM
Phone : 977 1 4440761, 4440765,
Fax : 977 1 4440763
E-mail : info@gorkhatravels.com
URL : www.gorkhatravels.com
TIMES
Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu
It is a panoramic thrill flying into
Kathmandu on a clear day A
representative and driver from our
office will meet you at the airport and
escort you to your hotel.
Day 2: Sightseeing in
Kathmandu
There will be a half day guided tour to
the famous and biggest Hindu shrine
of Pashupatinath, the largest Buddhist
stupa in Nepal Boudhanath, the 15th
century palace of 55 windows and
Swoyambhunath.
Day 3 Fly to Lukla and trek to
Phakding [2656m]
The flight from Kathmandu to Lukla
takes 45 minutes. We head up the
Dudh Koshi Valley on a well-marked
trail to Phakding.
Day 4 Trek to Namche [3450m]
From Phakding, we cross and re-cross
the rivers on high suspension bridges.
Beyond Monjo is the entrance to the
Sagarmatha National Park. We then
ascend steeply to Namche and along
the way, if weather permits, catch the
first glimpse of Mt Everest.
DAY 05 PEK/SHA
Ascending from Namche Bazaar, we
pass the airstrip at Syangboche and
the Japanese-built Everest View Hotel.
We walk to the picturesque village of
Khumjung with many old traditional
houses as well as a gompa at the top
end of town.
Day 6 Trek to Thyangboche
[3864m]
Heading east, we pass a large
Chorten and then descend to a
bridge across the Dudh Koshi at
Phunki Tenga. From the river, the
trail ascends through a forest of pine
and rhododendron, before arriving at
Thyangboche Monastery.
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Day 7 Excursion to Pangboche
[3908m]
Today’s visit include an excursion
to Pangboche Monastery and the
nunnery at Deboche.
Day 8 Trek to Namche [3450m]
From Thyangboche, we head back
down through the forest to Phunki
Tenga with its water-driven prayer
wheels. We make our way back down
to Namche and descend further to
Chumoa.
Day 9 Trek to Lukla [2900m]
Our final day’s trekking follows the
Dudh Koshi back down to Lukla.
Day 10 Fly to Kathmandu
After an early breakfast, we head to
the airstrip for our return journey to
Kathmandu.
Day 11 Depart Kathmandu
The Nepalese support team will take
you to the airport for your flight home.
If you prefer to stay longer, you can
go for short tours such as jungle safari
at National parks, rafting, Tibet tours,
mountain biking etc.
PACKAGE INCLUSIONS
• Airfare KTM/ CAN/ KTM
• Domestic flight airfare with tax CAN/
PEK/SHA/CAN
• Round-trip transfers between airport
and hotel
• 6 nights hotel accommodation with 6
breakfasts inside hotel
• Lunches and dinners as per men-
tioned in the itinerary
• Excursion and services mentioned in
the itinerary
• An English speaking guide
PACKAGE EXCLUSIONS
• Airfare Insurance Tax
• Visa Fee for China
• Tips to Guides and drivers
• Other services not mentioned in the
itinerary