Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
P RAY
Institute of Jute Technology
35, Ballygunge Circular Road, Kolkata-700 019, India.
1.0 PREFACE
The most important asset or resources of every organization is its human resource. It
is now globally recognised that managing human resources is the basic job of
management. With the advent of globalisation of business, Human Resource
Management (HRM)/Human Resource Development (HRD) has now emerged as one
of the prime aspects of management policies in Jute Industry too. The very
management philosophy has undergone a significant change to the extent that every
manager, from top to bottom, in an organization is now concerned with the HRM and
it is much more than just recruiting people. Once recruited, the Human Resource
Department helps a new recruit to become a productive and satisfied employee. Such
helps are also extended to the existing employees who are reassigned to new jobs
through promotions, transfers etc. and even for upgradation of their skill. It may
happen that a qualified and/or skilled employee may even quit his job, particularly
during the first few months. This initial turnover is common. One common method
for reducing such turnover among newly recruited employees is to arrange an
orientation programme that familiarises the new employees with the organization, its
policies, other employees and their roles. After such a comprehensive orientation and
proper job placement, a new employees is likely able to perform satisfactorily.
Often they must be trained in the duties they are expected to do. Even an experienced
employee when reallocated on a new job needs training to improve his performance.
Capabilities and job demands must be balanced by orientation and training as shown
in Fig. 1.
1
Capabilities Training
Fig. 1.
Although training helps employees to do their present job efficiently, the benefits of
training may extend throughout a person’s entire career and may help to develop that
person to undertake higher responsibilities in future.
The Jute Industry is one of the most labour-intensive industries. The technology is
very old. During the last two decades or so no major technological break through has
taken place although new technologies are continuously emerging in other branches
of textiles and the general concept is that Jute is a Sunset Industry. However, before
the partition of this sub-continent in 1947 it was one of the major industries in India.
The gradual decline in its performance is due to many factors, such as, partition of the
then India, increase in the cost of raw jute and labour, lack of modernisation efforts,
stiff competition from synthetics, lack of launching of newer and diversified products
etc. The main products from jute are still the packaging materials i.e. hessian and
sacking. With the establishment of the tufted carpet industry, the demand for jute
CBC started to grow in late 1950’s. However, this growth of demand was for a short
period. Jute CBC started losing its market to synthetic CBC from mid 1970’s. In
primary carpet backing jute CBC almost completely lost its market and in secondary
backing market jute CBC is holding a very small market share. In traditional high
quality wool carpets woven in Wilton and Axminster Looms, one still uses high
quality jute yarns as weft. However, this market is very small. The demand for
hessian, as packaging material and other uses, has also declined sharply due to advent
of synthetics, which are cheap, easily available and fashionable. Sacking has also lost
its market in the developed countries due to introduction of mechanised and bulk
handling systems. Since the synthetics are not biodegradable and are hazardous for
health and nature, the world is gradually becoming more receptive towards natural
fibres like jute due to its eco-friendly property. However, to regain its lost market and
to overcome its various inherent problems lot of efforts are needed on the part of the
industry as well as the research and educational institutions associated with it.
In this changing scenario, attempts have been made by different Govt. and Non-Govt.
Organisations to find out new areas of application of jute such as technical textiles,
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geo-textiles etc. as well as to improve the productivity and quality of the traditional
sector through the introduction of new types of machinery, modification of the
existing machinery and the innovations of new processing techniques. No serious
effort has so far been made to improve the quality of the workers and a sizable section
of the technicians associated with it. Although it is felt that to encounter the
challenges faced by the industry, a skilled and enlightened group of workforce is very
much essential. Sustainable HRD is therefore one of the prime needs of the jute
industry due to following reasons :-
(a) Awareness for Norms and Performance
(b) Awareness for Maintenance
(c) Awareness for Machine and Energy Auditing
(d) Awareness for Capacity Utilisation
(e) Awareness for Quality Assurance
(f) Awareness for Eco-friendly Diversified Products.
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2.2 Maintenance
This particularly vital aspect is most disheartening in all the mills in general. Some
mills reported to have adequate maintenance staff and follow coherent and systematic
maintenance programmes. However, on closer inspection and during in-depth
discussions with maintenance incharge and other personnel related to maintenance
work it was revealed that the situation certainly does not conform to the expectations.
The only attention that seems to be given regarding maintenance is breakdown
maintenance i.e. a machine is attended to when there is a sudden breakdown.
Although in some mills piecemeal approach is sometimes made towards preventive
maintenance, but in reality there is no systematic follow-up in this direction. Lack of
adequate number of maintenance workers who can form maintenance squads under an
in-charge with specified responsibilities is also discernible in certain cases. In
addition, maintenance supervisors/in-charge on many occasions, were found not to be
familiar with life of spares and other qualitative aspects which normally is desirable
from a technologist with mechanical aptitude. Non-availability of suitable spares in
time also comes as a hindrance in certain other cases.
In our opinion maintenance must get top priority if the condition of mills working
with age-old machinery has to be improved. A programme has to be charted out,
advance planning to be made and rigorous follow-up action to be taken with adequate
earnestness to get satisfactory improvement.
2.3 Machine Auditing/Energy Auditing
Some mills have patchy ideas on machine and energy auditing; the terms seem to be
alien to others. How these audit systems can help in maintaining the machinery in
proper condition and for minimising energy consumption and there by ultimately
reduce the cost is not clear to them. Lack of knowledge of people in carrying out the
audit work seemed to be a hindrance. Practical shop-floor training seems to be
necessary in this direction.
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fully utilised. It is felt that wherever possible, the management should frame a long
term policy on the basis of forecast for market demand, adequate financial support
etc. for optimum utilisation of production capacity.
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true eco-friendly item should not only be biodegradable but should also be free from
any toxic item, often referred as red listed product. Such products should not be used
in many of the stages of manufacturing including packaging. It is therefore necessary
to explain the importance of the current market demand for eco-friendly jute products
both at the supervisory and worker levels. Moreover, the technician must be familiar
with the banned items and their substitutes.
From the above discussion it is felt that the industry needs suitable multitier training
programmes for the upgradation of knowledge of junior and middle level supervisors
at relevant areas and workers’ training on relevant skill development and changing of
attitude towards their work and behaviour. The top management should also sincerely
rise to the need of the present day situation in the industry and change their approach
towards the managing of mills in view of changing the global scenario.
Necessity for HRD in jute mills may be inferred from the following information
obtained from the standard causes of loss of production in spinning and loomshed,
which are primarily the focus of ultimate productivity.
2. Doffing of bobbins
3. Shortage of feed sliver
4. Sliver breakage at the back of spinning frame
5. Stoppages of individual spindle or the whole machine due to mechanical
reasons.
6. Jamming of sliver in the drafting zone.
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7. Oiling and cleaning.
8. Shortage of bobbin.
9. Electrical fault.
If on analyses the above causes, it can be concluded that human judgment plays an
important role in increasing the production of the industry.
HRD is a continuous process, which matches organizational needs for human
resources and the individual needs for a career development. It enables the individuals
to gain their best human potential by attaining a total all round development. It
promotes dignity of employment of every employee of an organization and provides
the opportunities for team work, personal development and career development.
Hence, a well-planned HRD System must be a part of human resource management of
every organisation. Such a Sustainable Human Development (SHD) system may have
the following elements.
7
Every organization needs effective leaders. In fact bosses are replaced by leaders
since leadership role is invaluable in the contemporary organizations having
knowledgeable technocrats and workers.
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3.8 Management Development; Technical Development;
Supervisory Development & Organizational Development
3.11 Feedback
Every HRD System must have a built-in subsystem for feedback. Feedback from the
employees, who are subject to the HRD intervention of the organization, enables the
organization to determine whether the intervention is effective. It also provides
information about the performance of the people who worked for the organization.
Thus, the feedback system makes the HRM and HRD activities effective.
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4.0 EFFECT OF HRD
A Company’s training and development pays dividends to the employee and the
organization as suggested below :
• Improves the job knowledge and skills at all levels of the organization.
• Improves the morale of the workforce.
• Improves relationship between boss and subordinates.
• Aids in organizational development.
• Aids in carrying out organizational policies.
• Provides information for future needs in all areas of the organization.
• Aids in increasing productivity and/or quality of work.
• Helps to keep costs down in many areas e.g. production, personnel,
administration, etc.
• Reduces outside consulting costs by utilising competent internal consulting.
• Helps employees adjust to change.
• Leads to improved profitability and/or more positive attitudes towards profit
orientation.
In general any human resource development programme must enable the Company’s
people to acquire and sharpen their capabilities to perform well on their respective
jobs, develop and stimulate their potentialities and to help them make their best
contribution to develop an organizational culture of team spirit, cordial relationship,
human values and togetherness of the management and its people.
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that the same are not properly followed”. This clearly indicates that there is an urgent
need for HRD through effective communication, say, through audio-visuals,
highlighting the do’s and don’ts so that the concerned personnel can have insight into
the problems. The Team of I.J.T. during their visits to different mills classified the
various needs of HRD for upgradation of the following.
5.1 Housekeeping
Clean dust free atmosphere of the working place around the machines and operator,
proper material handling, adequate lighting arrangement as per norms and bad habits
of working personnel require proper attention. This type of housekeeping shall result
in better working environment and may lead to better efficiency of the workforce. The
wastes generated at different stages may be of good quality if the cleaning is done
methodically. Material handling, if properly done, can lead to better product, free, of
certain faults. Lighting arrangement and the humidification if properly done will
create better working atmosphere and less fatigue of workers. Bad habits, like spitting
around and others, lead to unhealthy atmosphere.
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without any scientific basis and may involve excess physical labour and severe mental
stress. In some cases, these leads to more hands per tonne. In some cases it leads to
fatigue within the workforce. The work-study along with technical literature might
help to reduce the physical labour and the mental stresses.
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5.6 Awareness of Eco-friendly Product
Even though jute is eco-friendly, most of the technicians are not aware why eco-
friendly term is being coined and its importance in the present scenario of world
market. The complete nature of awareness requires a through understanding of not
only the raw material, and its processing, but the knowledge about the use of the end
products and how it is maintaining the environment and the people free from
toxication. This particular aspect needs a special attention from the view point of
HRD. Moreover, the technicians in the sizing and chemical processing sections must
be aware about the different dyes and chemicals which have already been banned or
are likely to be banned in near future due to their toxicity and other detrimental effect.
Knowledge about the substitutes for such items is also essential.
5.7 Psychology
This particular aspect is very much essential for the workers and for the junior
supervisors. The behavioural aspects of a human being when he is working in a group,
the mentality of that person requires to be groomed according to the needs of the
working environment. The people should be made to understand that without proper
mental awareness nothing can be achieved and even if the achievement takes place
the reward must be coming through. Upper level management should initiate various
measures to improve the behavioural aspects and boost the moral psychology of the
lower level supervisors and the workers.
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ultimate lead to the availability of a comprehensive course materials for all the level
of personnel in jute industry and the various training modules shall be standardised
within a short period. People from the industry feel that the training programmes
should be short, meaningful and both the theory and practice should be blended at the
proper ratio for easy and better understanding of the people at the shop-floor level.
Moreover, modern educational technology should be effectively used so that the
important points are ingrained in the minds of the workforce.
7.0 EVALUATION
The evaluation of impact of these types of training is not indeed easy to judge.
However, this Institute from its long experience has developed following system.
An Evaluation Questionnaire will be framed for each category of module by
individual resource persons. The same Evaluation Questionnaire will be supplied to
each participant after the completion of the module.
Questionnaire duly filled will be evaluated at the training centre itself and will be
informed about participants’ achievement, drawbacks and scope for further
improvement.
Participants have to go back to the mills and implement the acquired knowledge in
their day-to-day working. After three months, an evaluation will take place along with
representatives from the management.
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8.0 FEEDBACK FROM THE TRAINING
PROGRAMME
CONDUCTED FOR INDIAN JUTE INDUSTRIES
1. Every individual mill/ organization must be having their own HRD cell along with
a
library.
2. The supervisors and the managers should be under going frequent training to
upgrade
their knowledge every two years.
3. Induction of effective qualified and professional managers for effective
management
policy.
4. Induction of trained workers, jobbers, fitters through in-house training of freshly
inducted apprentices.
5. The supervisors and the managers themselves must train the workers regularly.
6. Round the year training programme should be planned along with the plan for
production schedule.
7. As the supervisors and managers of spinning and weaving must be conversant with
all
the processing stages of the respective sections and increase their knowledge about
the
total processing/ respective sections.
8. Similarly the workers must be encouraged for training for development of skills in
various stages of production.
9. The research scientists and the academicians must be invited to deliver lectures on
different aspects of production.
10. For induction of apprentice workers few discarded machineries must be kept aside
for
details study.
11. Coordination between the various sections must be encouraged.
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12. Communications between workers and supervisors and supervisors with managers
should be cordial and without any prejudice.
13. Mechanism should be developed in monitoring and auditing (both internal and
external) all training activities to establish their effectiveness in company
business.
_______________
M Gulam Mustafa
Joint Secretary,
Ministry of Textiles & Jute, Govt. of Bangladesh
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erosion control by netted and open constructed fabrics were also very
common stabilizing material for rain -wind erosion protector. Geo
textile as erosion control alternative to regular soil filters were
originated around the late 50’s by using it behind pre-cast concrete
sea walls. Permeability, soil retention, strength, filtration, along with
other properties of geo-textiles were discussed by Mr. Barnett. In the
1960’s Rhone-Poulenc of textile research of France has exposed the
application of non-Woven, needle punched fabric as geo textile
material. ICI, Dupont, Poly felt and other multinationals had enough
contribution for finding appropriate geo-textiles development.
Two identified popular areas of jute geotextile applications
are
17
* Weighing 500 gsm or more it will not be easily lifted
by wind, the flowing water or the growing grass.
* It is flexible enough to follow any type of surface
contour.
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(1994)
Region Consumption (M m2) Percentages (%)
zNorth America 411 41
Western Europe 359 36
Japan 86 9
Asia 54 5
Australia 21 2
South America 27 3
Africa 14 1
Eastern Europe 26 3
Totals 9987 100
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Totals 359 100
Due to life span and other advantages synthetic geo textiles are
used mostly as geo technical appliances. On other hand natural
geotextiles are getting importance for their biodegradable and
environmental friendliness. Here also some information’s are
given in tabular form.
20
World residual 12 14
Totals 86 100
(2003-2004)
21
In the year 2003, world export of produces of jute, kenaf &
allied fibres is 7.16 lac MT which marked slight increased from
that of previous year. Total world import of raw jute in 2003
was 3.86 lac MT. Bangladesh on an average export 90
thousand MT of raw jute to Pakistan.
ii) TRADITIONAL PRODUCTS OF JUTE IN INDIA &
BANGLADESH : Lac MT
Products Bangladesh India
Hessian 1.17 2.95
Sacking 2.15 9.54
CBC 0.19 0.04
Yarn 1.59 1.14
Other 0.90 1.66
Total 5.18 15.33
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per maunds in Bangladesh ($ 5.8 per 37 kg) and in India it was
Re 335 per maunds ( $ 8.37 per 37 kg). However, in
Bangladesh in the year 2004-05 the price of raw jute increased
to at least 30%.
Agro-mulching of textiles materials are seems to be most
effective with the use of natural fibers, due to their
biodegradability, echo-compatibility and improvement of soil
fertility and texture. The properties of natural geo-textiles are
not popularized and well known to the users, particularly to
civil engineers and bio engineers.
Marketing Strategy:
In the age of globalization of market economy, both products
and services have become open around the world., The
concept and the gains of productivity has become the center
point and important factor for accelerating economic growth
through industrial development, maximization of output,
productivity increase and optimum use of wealth. Market
network and technological development, have become very
potential for value creation, quality development and
productivity promotion.
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In marketing a product the key considerations are the nature
of the product, definition of the most lucrative markets and
marketing methods. In the theory jute may be used to
produce geotextiles for civil engineering applications or
erosion control applications, as it is environmentally friendly
sustainable natural resources.
FILTRATION, SEPARATION, OR
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DRAINS, ARE NARROW STRIP OF MATERIAL,
THAILAND.
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c) Jute geotextiles can be produced by existing jute mills
with little or no modifications or additions to machinery.
d) The demand for geotextiles is very large and expanding.
Even a small portion of the market would be sufficient
to improve the jute economy.
Whilst synthetic products dominate the overall geotextile
market, previous studies commissioned by the ITC and IJO in
the carly 1980's showed that jute products might be able to
compete commercially with synthetics in the end uses of : (a)
Soil Erosion Control & (b) Rural Road Pavement Construction.
If jute geotextiles are to contribute to this objective, the
markets, manufacturing and performance of these products
must be fully understood. To date, there have been very few
studies investigating these aspects, and no study has analyzed
the interactions and synergies between these 3 critical aspects
of jute geotextile production and application.
By far the most marketable jute geotextiles are those used
for erosion control and these products should be regarded as
the main stay of the jute geotextile industry. At present there
are no major specification requirements to be met and the
market has been partly developed. In theory, and in fact, the
greatest potential for jute erosion control products is in those
regions which have the largest and most buoyant erosion
control products markets.
In order of importance these markets are North America,
which currently consumes around 50% of global rolled
erosion control products, Western Europe, which consumes
around 30%, and the rest of the world which consumes the
remaining 12% of production. Of course three regions, North
America and Western Europe together account for some 88%
of world consumption and are therefore the prime target
markets. Over the next few years these markets are fore cast
to expand at around 5% per annum although within Western
Europe there are countries where general geotextile
consumption is expanding more rapidly.
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As regards marketing, it is for the jute geotextile
manufacturers to decide on the most acceptable approach.
On the one hand, there is the option of using independent
importer and distributors as at present. This has the
advantages of being a known quality which works moderately
well in promoting jute erosion control products.
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INCREASE THE APPLICATIONS AND ALSO
DEGRADATION.
PRODUCTIVITY FACTORS
The production function of a nation's economic growth can be achieved by
increased input in investment and or labor or through increased factor
productivities.
In order to increase the productivity of jute geo textile, a prolonged approach
adopted introducing new ideas, techniques and strategies for more robust
operations, facilitation and the formation of strategic alliance and networking and
promoting demonstration effects to be undertaken. Productivity movements and
facilitating in depth collaboration with private sector and other international
organizations also to be given priority.
Technical activities must become more focused its performance needs to become
more cost effective, and it should have more interactions with national and
international organizations. In order to make the best use of in expertise and
knowledge private sector toe be given due emphases. Private sector ins the main
driver in any national productivity program and that if this sector is apathetic
toward the Productivity efforts could turn out to be meaningless. Three aspects of
this issue be examined
1) identification and selection of appropriate themes and design of
suitable curricula relevant to private-sector needs.
2) sufficiently in-depth treatment of the training topic and
3) more nominations of private sector participants for projects.
IJSG has taken up a project on Development and Application of Productivity
Important Jute geo textile for which they have incorporated some renowned
research organizations/agencies as project implementing partners through out the
world.
The main components of the project are: i) Product Technical Evaluation,
ii) Supply Chain Analysis & Market Research and iii) Manufacturing .
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The existing 500 gsm JGT product commonly marketed under a variety of trade
names by various companies as Geojute, Soil Saver, Anti-Wash etc., was found
price competitive compared with other erosion control geotextiles, although the
supply was limited due to lack of suitable machinery facility in jute mills. It has
been identified that a lighter weight, woven jute material (around 300 gsm) which
has been found to have the same techno-economic capability and most jute mills
in the jute producing countries are capable of manufacturing it in larger volumes.
However, this lighter weight product would require some more work and trials for
assessment of its appropriateness and suitability. The technical study indicated
that for certain soil types the lighter weight 300 and 400 gsm woven JGTs perform
adequately and, at a pro rata price, could prove attractive to the end-user but any
limitation on use should be determined and published to ensure end-users
confidence.
GREATER USE OF JUTE GEOTEXTILE WILL BENEFIT :-
i) The jute growers and manufacturers who will benefi5t from the increased
consumption of the fibre including large quantities of lower grade jute, which
currently have no market in traditional uses;
ii) The unemployed communities of the jute producing countries through
generation of more employment opportunities in the jute and jute related
industries;
iii) Global application of JGT products would provide environmental and
economic benefits to the jute producing countries but worldwide;
iv) The environment which will use such eco-friendly products - for example,
soil is a non-renewable resource which can be protected from degradation and
erosion through the use of jute geotextile products; and
v) The communities who benefit from such environment friendly construction.
The environmental protection afforded by these jute geotextile products will help
prevent land degradation conserve soils and maintain clean water, which are
essential natural resources beyond monetary value.
vi) Society as a whole will benefit from the conservation of soil, reduction in
sediment production, improved water quality and sustainable road and
infrastructural development which will accrue from the application of effective
jute geotextiles.
vii) Private entrepreneurs through development and expansion of potential
market (both local and international) of jute geotextiles.
viii) Other user countries that are looking for environmentally friendly
alternatives to the present technology of road and infrastructural construction.
ix) All stakeholders of jute in the chain, from the jute growers/farmers to end
users, who will ultimately benefit financially by enhanced market share in the two
identified areas of geotextile application through this project.
ENVIRONMENTAL ASPECTS:
In the United States and the European Union, which are the largest markets for
geotextiles, there are major concerns as to environmental degradation and poor
water quality caused by uncontrolled soil erosion. Jute geotextiles can play a vital
role in meeting the requirements of initiatives to control erosion.
In terms of soil erosion control, the loss of soil by the processes of water and wind
erosion is of global concern. The following table shows typical values of soil
erosion rates throughout the world. The eroded soil is deposited in lakes, rivers
and floodplains, which can cause increased risk of flooding. It is, therefore,
imperative that whenever human activity removes the protective vegetation
cover on slopes, then immediate erosion control measures must be taken.
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World-wide rates of erosion by water : (t/ha/yr)
CONCLUSION :
Finally, it can be concluded that mass uses of jute geo-textiles will help the
productivity improvement in jute sector as a whole. Productivity
improvement through mass use of jute geo-textiles will emancipate the
economic growth of many developing and LDC countries and will contribute to
the achievement of Millennium Development Goal (MDG) eradicating poverty
and ensuring better environment globally.
________________
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Jute, a versatile fibre
What it is?
Jute is a textile fibre obtained from the outer bark of a stem (Jute
plant) for which it is called bast fibre. Although a Jute plant may
grow upto 16 ft or more but the best quality Jute plants grow
upto around 10 ft and diameter is around 1” to ½’’ from bottom
upward.
Historical background
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Jute fibre. Possibly present day Hessians or sacking type things
resembled those burlap. Jute had flourished in this part of the
world as an important cottage industry. It is learnt that export of
hand woven Jute cloth from this region had started in 1805. But
subsequently due to various reasons Jute cottage industry began
to vanish gradually. On the other hand the city of Dundee began
to get impetus to develop Jute Industry rapidly with the raw Jute
of this region, specially of Bangladesh. M/s. Rishara Jute Mills
was possibly the first Jute mill set up in 1855 in the South Asian
subcontinent. It was located near Serampore in Kolkata (India).
This was the beginning of a new era which gave a remarkable
impetus to the industry.
Where it is cultivated?
Alluvial soil of fairly fine texture and high temperature upto 95º
degrees Fahrenheit with a minimum of 80º degrees Fahrenheit
during the period of growth of the plant are the major
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requirements for the cultivation of Jute. Along with these, there
should be rainfall of over 40”. This rainfall should be so
distributed that while the young plants have sufficient moisture,
the bulk of rainfall should take place when the crop is more
matured.
Jute Industry
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The growth of Jute Industry was witnessed from the time the
Dundee Spinners and weavers successfully found out Jute as
very good bag making material. Bags made of Jute were found
eminently suitable as packaging of agricultural as well as
mineral products. The main reasons for its global acceptance as
packaging was its cheapness. But eventually Dundee could not
meet the growing demand for Jute goods and it was thought
expedient to start manufacture of Jute goods in places near the
Jute growing areas. So, Jute mills sprang up on either banks of
the rivers Hoogly in West Bengal (India). Most of the Jute mills
of the world are now located in Bangladesh and India. In
Bangladesh alone there are more than 70 composite mills and
more than 50 spinning mills. The composite mills produce Jute
fabrics and hessian to make bags, sacks etc. A-Twill, B-Twill
bags and various sacks are still being used widely as packaging
materials. These are also used for various other purposes. Even
in military exercises sand-filled Jute bags are widely used in
different countries. Even after the dismantling of Adamjee Jute
Mills Ltd., Bangladesh remains world’s one of the leading Jute
goods manufacturing and exporting countries. World export of
products of Jute Kenaf and Allied fibres with Bangladesh share
for four years from 2000 to 2003 is shown below
34
2001 6.43 4.09 63.61%
2002 6.76 4.01 59.32%
2003 7.17 3.92 54.67%
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of Jute mills machinery But since they are no longer
manufacturing these machinery, the maintenance of the
existing Mackie Machinery has become difficult with the
spares/parts now made by others, most of which do not
conform to that quality.
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bags, Jute rugs and carpets backing for tufted carpets, mats,
underfelt foundation, cotton-Jute union fabrics for desk chairs
and awnings, mattress covers, aprons, tailors’ interlinings or
paddings, wool-Jute blend for low cost blankets, Jute-flax union
for tropical suitings etc., dolls’ hairs, sash cords luggage covers,
paper reinforcement, hospital tows Jute waste filter as synthetic
or natural plastic, screens for film shooting, food container
insulation (caddis), tool bags, kit bags etc. This list is not
exhaustive, but confirms that only cotton may match the
versatility of Jute. This also indicates that possibilities of finding
newer uses of Jute are almost limitless. Research has confirmed
that various qualities of paper can be produced from Jute,
although the economic viability is yet to be established.
Having said these, one must hasten to add that scope for
research in particular is vast. We all know that Jute fibre has lost
its glamourous qualities in terms of fibre fineness, lusture, glaze
and colours for reasons such as shortage of adequate natural
retting water, application of chemical fertilizers etc. The
previously famous grades like Export Lightening, Export First,
the UK grades of BTA and BTA special have become things of
the past and not traceable anywhere. It is only through
meaningful research that we may think of bringing about
qualitative improvement of Jute fibre. Again, it is through
research that we can find out new uses and products of Jute.
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Therefore, both the governments and the private sector of the
Jute producing countries must come forward with generous
financial support for research in Jute sector.
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plant level should be a continuous process. Refresher courses for
all grades of workers will definitely help improve the
productivity of an industry.
There are other factors such as selection of right kind of Jute for
appropriate batching for the goods to be produced. But these are
routine matters for the factory/mill management.
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in the present day world. In my view International Jute Study
Group (IJSG) may spear-head the global campaign in favour of
the use of Jute and Jute goods for the protection of global
environment.
40
the economy of this part of the world. Let us hope Jute will re-
emerge as a ‘Golden Fibre’ again as it was in the past.
__________________
Pratap K. J. Mohapatra
Professor
Department of Industrial Engineering & Management
Indian Institute of Technology Kharagpur
Kharagpur – 721 302, India
A paper by Professor Bhadury has given an overview of the work we have done in the
area of improvement of jute mill productivity. Here, we give the details of the study
with regard to each process, stacking of raw jute bales through baling of sacks and
hessians.
A. Stacking
41
Three forms of stacking are in use in the industry: (1) Manual stacking, (2) Stacking
with the help of jib crane, and (3) Stacking with the help of forklift. Various
alternatives are considered for each form of stacking. We give estimates of
investment and payback period (Table 1) when manual stacking is replaced by each of
the proposed alternatives. The following assumptions are made here:
Stacking Height number bales Product money saved initial Pay- back
alternatives of the of stacked/ ivity per month invest period
stack (ft) workers shift bales/ (taking manual ment (months)
man- stacking as (lakh
shift reference) Rs.)
Manual stacking 25 25 300 12 - - -
Jib crane 25 13 525 40 Rs. 53,500 5 9.34
(unloading in
one side of
godown)
Jib crane 25 10 525 52.5 Rs. 70,000 5 7.14
(unloading both
side of godown)
Jib crane with 25 8 525 65.63 Rs. 72,250 8.5 11.76
telescopic arm
Jib crane with 25 7 525 75 Rs. 82,750 6.5 7.85
inclined roller
conveyor
Jib crane with 25 5 525 105 Rs. 85,000 10 11.76
inclined roller
conveyor and
telescopic arm
Jib crane with 25 5 525 105 Rs. 88,750 8.5 9.57
direct loading
from truck
inside the
godown
Jib crane with 25 3 525 175 Rs. 96,000 10 10.41
direct loading
from truck
inside the
godown and
using telescopic
42
arm
Fork lift 14 9 525 58.33 Rs. 73,000 6 8.21
Fork lift with 14 5 525 105 Rs. 95,000 6 6.31
guided
unloading from
truck
We recommend that manual stacking of raw jute bales should be replaced by the use
of either a jib crane with telescopic crane arm or a forklift, depending on whether the
truck carrying the bales can be brought inside the godown or not. Further, of these
two alternatives, the use of forklift is preferred, since it has a much lower payback
period.
This study has been carried out in a mill where the Selection Section is fed with jute
bales both from the godown and directly from the truck. Time study is conducted for
both the feeding methods. The productivities of a trolley man for both the cases are
35 and 95 bales per shift respectively.
C. Selection
Two cases are considered: (1) Selection of bales that does not involve cutting of top
portion, and (2) Selection of bales that involves cutting of top portion. The achievable
productivities are determined using work measurement principles (Table 2).
43
TABLE 2: ACHIEVABLE PRODUCTIVITIES IN THE SELECTION
SECTION
The workers involved in handling selected materials from the selection section to the
softening section are of two types:
A work sampling study with 387 observations over a period of 3 days (72 hrs) was
carried out on the gariwallas. The study gave the following results:
Working: 62.27%
Idle: 37.73%
A work sampling study is carried out on the bojhawalas. The study gives the
following results:
Working: 36.95%
Idle: 63.05%
A comparison is made between the existing method and the suggested method (Table
3).
44
45
Table 3: Existing and the Suggested Method of Material Handling
Existing method Suggested method
1. Number of softener machines 6 6
2. Cart capacity 600 kg 320 kg.
3. Number of carts required 2 14
4. Number of workers per day 21 6
5. Money saved per month - Rs. 82,500 (=[21-6 person]
* 5,500Rs./person-month)
6. Initial investment - Rs. 48,000 (=[14-2
carts]*4,000Rs./cart)
7. Payback period - 18 days
(=[48,000/ 82,500] *30)
(i) Idle time due to cleaning of nozzles through which emulsion is applied =
3.7%
(ii) Idle time due to jamming =
2.8%
The utilization of 73.47 percent can be significantly improved by replacing the nozzle
system by a container on which emulsion overflows and spreads along the width of
the softening machine, as is being done by some mills. This will avoid altogether the
idle time incurred for cleaning of nozzles.
In this process, workers place the softener machine output on a car. Pilemen carry the
carload of materials to the pile place for piling. After piling for 24 hours, the pile
breakers carry the material to the carding machines.
Analysis through a flow process chart indicates that one can do away with the
following activities:
1. Taking the softener output from the car and putting it on the floor for piling.
2. Breaking the pile and putting the pile material on the car (by the pile breakers)
for
serving the carding machines.
We suggest the use of a cage on wheels. Piling should be done on the cage itself and
not on the floor, so that while the transportation time remains unaffected, the
46
remaining portion of the piling time and the pile breaking time will be saved. A
comparison of the two methods is given in Table 4.
G. Carding
Production studies on breaker and finish-carding machines, carried out in three mills,
show that:
(i) JF card machines give higher productivity.
(ii) Roll-feed breaker carding gives higher production than hand feed breaker
carding machine.
(iii) Major causes of idleness of machines include mechanical problems and
jamming, caused by pin breakage, and irregular gap between rollers.
(iv) At finisher carding, there is a loss of machine utilization due to stock build at
output.
H. Batching Section
We have made a detailed comparison study of the two different processes used in the
batching section. In process A the material passes through the softener machine, then
it goes to the piling section for 24-36 hours after which it goes to the hand-feed
carding machine to produce sliver for finisher carding. In this process root cutting is
necessary before feeding the material to the hand-feed breaker-carding machine.
In process B the material passes through the jute good spreader, then it goes to the
piling section in roll form, and after 12 hrs. it goes to the auto-feed breaker carding
machine for producing sliver for the inter carding machine, and then to the finish
carding machine. In this process root cutting is not necessary.
When a mill uses process B instead of process A, the saving due to saving in amount
of material only is Rs. 0.81 lakh per month. A comparison of number of hands
required for process A and process B is made in Table 5.
47
Table 5: NUMBER OF HANDS – PROCESS A VS. PROCESS B.
HANDS REQUIRED IN PROCESS A HANDS REQUIRED IN PROCESS B
Softener machine Jute good spreader
Feeder/machine/shift 1 Feeder/machine/shift 1
Receiver/machine/shift 1 Receiver/machine/shift 0.5
Pileman/machine/shift 1.5
Hand feed carding machine – Auto feed carding machine
1st Machine Feeder/machine/shift 0.33
Feeder/machine/shift 2 Pile carrier 0.25
Root cutter/machine/shift 2 Note: Root cutting is not necessary
Pilecarrier
0.25
Hand feed carding machine – Intercarding machine
2nd Machine Feeder/machine/shift 0.33
Feeder/machine/shift 2 Receiver/machine/shift 0.20
Root cutter/machine/shift 2 Roll carrier 0.25
Pilecarrier
0.25
Since process B takes only 12 hrs whereas process A takes 24 to 36 hrs to pile,
process B is better compared to process A also with respect to processing time,
although there is no major variation in production. Thus it is recommended that a mill
traditionally using process A should change over to process B.
One jute goods spreader can serve material to two auto-feed breaker carding machine
and one auto-feed breaker-carding machine serves material to one inter-carding
machine. So the installation of one jute good spreader will call for two auto-feed
breaker carding and two inter-carding machines.
Estimated initial investment = (cost of jute good spreader + cost of two auto- feed
breaker carding machines + cost of two inter-carding machines) = 63 lakhs
(approximately). Assuming the salary of each worker as Rs. 5,500 p.m., the total
savings in process B as compared to process A per month
I. Drawing
Sliver is reduced in width and thickness through the use of three stages of drawing.
Production studies were carried out in two mills and reasons for machine idleness
48
were identified. The reasons for machine idleness in drawing section are: Pin
breakage, Jamming, Non-availability of the operator, Shortage of material, and
Miscellaneous (e.g., maintenance practices like cleaning, oiling, power failure etc.,
which causes the machine to be idle for some time).
J. Spinning
We have carried out a production study in order to identify various reasons for
machine idleness. The reasons are: Doffing, Yarn breakage, and Miscellaneous.
There are two practices that prevail in the industry for cutting yarn during doffing: (a)
Using manual cutter, and (b) Using semi–automatic cutter. A stopwatch time study
indicates that the doffing time for manual cutter is 91.13 seconds, whereas it is 57.46
seconds for the semi-automatic cutter
Yarn breakage mainly depends upon the quality of jute. The number of yarn
breakages varies from 3.73 for export quality Hessian 12 lb (100 spindles) to 15.13
for Sacking weft 26lb (100 spindles). Breakage repair rate is standardised and the
standard value is 4 breakage repairs/min.
From a production study, it is found that machine idle time due to miscellaneous
reasons (such as mechanical faults, and non-availability of operators and materials,
etc.) is about 5%.
The industry uses two types of spinning machines: (1) the two-legged flyer machines
and (2) the Bauxter flyer machines. A comparison of the spinning productivity and the
spinning efficiency of the two machines shows that there is an increase of 12.86
percent in productivity and 7 percent in efficiency, when Bauxter flyer machine is
used in place of the two-legged flyer.
49
= 1 – [(doffing time/cycle time) + (average no. of breakages/total no. of
spindle)
+ (percentage of idleness due to miscellaneous reasons)]
The recommended efficiency and productivity for different quality of jute in different
machines are given in Table 6. The payback period for investing in Bauxter Flyer
machine is shown to be about 1.11 years when even saving due to reduction of
wastages, improved beaming and weaving aspects and workload of bobbin carriers,
mazdoors, etc., is not considered.
A number of observations have been made for spinning for the following types of
yarn as a part of a work sampling study:
50
Based on the data, we feel that excepting for Hessian warp, the number of bobbins
waiting for repair is large. We conduct a simulation study to experiment on the nature
of influence the manpower deployment will have on the number of working bobbins.
A simulation study has been carried out. The following input data are taken for the
purpose:
Yarn breakage rate: Poisson distributed. The mean values of the
yarn breakage rate are indicated in the earlier
table.
Mending rate: 5th – order Erlang distribution. The order and
the mean values have been determined by a
process of trial and error during calibration.
Sliver replenishment time: Obtained by a process of trial-and-error
during the calibration phase.
% of bobbins stopping due to stockout Have been calculated during the computation
and that due to yarn breakage: of sliver consumption rate and the yarn
breakage rate.
Simulation has been carried out for a period of 10,000 minutes. We have assumed that
all the 200 bobbins are working at the start of the simulation. The model was
simulated for different frame assignments of the helper and the simulation results for
average values of utilization of the workers (based on full time of the operator and
part of the time of the helper spent on a machine), yarn breakages, and total bobbins
down were noted.
The simulation results (Table 7) indicate that as the number of frames assigned to a
helper is increased, the productivity measured in terms of number of working bobbins
per a worker increases, and the worker utilization increases. But the number of down
bobbins increases, leading to loss in production that can adversely affect the
profitability of the mill.
We take 80% utilization of the workers as an acceptable figure. We note that the
current worker assignment in Hessian Warp is optimal, but that for other yarn types,
less number of frames should be assigned to one helper in order to reduce the number
of down bobbins and increase the production rate.
51
Increase in production --- 503 kg 2903 kg 1742 kg
per machine per month
Increase in production --- 3018 kg 8709 kg 5226 kg
per unit increase in
manpower
K. Winding
There are two types of winding processes: spool winding and cop winding. Spool winding
produces yarn for warp (the longitudinal yarn) whereas cop winding produces yarn for weft (the
transverse yarn) of the weaving operation.
In order to know the present machine utilisation and the reasons for idle time of the
machine, a production study was carried out for an uninterrupted period of four hours.
A machine of 24 spindles, in which 12 spindles are assigned to one worker, was
studied and the result of the study is as under:
Working time is 45.02 per cent.
Interference = 32.87 %
Non availability of material = 15.22 %
Miscellaneous = 6.89 %
52
Generally cop-winding machines consist of 120 spindles. Number of spindles per
worker depends on the count of yarn produced. For example: for 221b, 261b, 281b
count of yarn, manning is 15-20 spindles per worker, and for 7.51b, 81b, 91b, 121b.
131b count of yarn, manning is 20-30 spindles per worker.
By taking 25% allowance standard time for loading and unloading cop is 8 seconds.
So maximum number of spindles one can attend with minimum interference = 8 - 10
spindles. Assigning 10 spindles per worker increases the working time of a spindle
increases from 41% to 95.705%.
By the proposed methods, the machine utilisation in both spool and cop winding is
significantly improved (by 32.87 and 54.16 percent respectively). The increase in the
number of workers, due to the proposed method, is more than offset by this gain in
machine utilisation, since spinning and winding supply yarn to the looms and weaving
is the largest cost centre.
L. Beaming
Production study was carried out for an uninterrupted period of four hours and during
this study 460 ends were studied. The result of the study is as under:
53
It is recommended that:
Weaving
A Group time technique (GTT) was conducted for a set of thirty machines (around 10
percent of the total machines) for sacking along with fifteen men. The following
were found to be the primary causes of machine idleness:
b. Beam change,
c. Minor repair and mechanical problems
Damping
One man is engaged at the input side of the damping machine to load two rolls and
another man is engaged at the output side. A stopwatch time study indicates that
normal time is 55 seconds. Taking the allowance of 15% the standard time is 64.7%.
The maximum production is 60,000 meters per machine per shift. Time required to
Further, machine utilisation is low at 70.8%. This is because calendering, the next
operation, is very slow. The input requirement for calendering per shift is very less
compared to the output capacity of the damping machine.
54
It is suggested that the damping machine should run alternately 2 shifts on one day,
followed by 1 shift on the next day.
A comparison between the present and the proposed method (Table 8) shows that the
proposed method considerably improves machine productivity and labour working
time. It is to be noted, however, that there should be enough space to store one shift
requirement of calendering machines. Lack of adequate space may, however, make
this suggestion difficult, or even impossible, to implement.
Number of workers One worker at input One worker at input side and one
side and one worker at worker at output
output side
side
Machine utilization 70.8% 94.33%
Labour working
time 27.35% 36.44%
Input worker
Output worker 21.88% 29.15%
M. Calendering
Manning pattern for this operation is: one man at the input side and another at the
output side of the calendering machine. A stopwatch time study was conducted to find
elemental times of the operation. The elemental times are:
Loading = 75 seconds
Operation= 247 seconds
From the man-machine chart the input worker working time is obtained as 30.58%.
We propose that one man can attend two machines at the input side. The input worker
working time is obtained as 66.66%. The proposed manning pattern increases the
labour productivity considerably (Table 9).
55
Labour productivity 11,451 15,268
Mts/man/shift
Inspection and repairing are carried out as separate operations (Practice 1) by certain
mills, whereas they are carried out along with the calendering operation (Practice 2) in
certain others. We consider both the practices.
Practice 1
Here inspection and repair are considered as separate operations. Five workers inspect
and repair the cloth and one worker carries material from the inspection and repairing
section to the calendering machines. From a sample of observations, it was found that
the average cycle time was 137 seconds, with 80 seconds for inspection and 57
seconds for repair. Standard time (by taking allowance as 20%) is 171.25 seconds.
Considering that 95.0976 meter length of cloth is inspected and repaired by one
worker in 171.25 seconds, the worker productivity can be estimated as 15,993 (= 8 *
60 * 60 * 95.0976 / 171.25) meters/machine/shift.
From the questionnaire survey, we note that the requirement of cloth for one
calendering machine per shift is 30,000 meters. So it is concluded that two inspection
and repair workers for one calendering machine constitute the optimum manning in
the inspection and repairing section.
Practice 2
Here the worker at the output side of the calendering machine carries out the
inspection. Whenever the cloth has to be repaired, the worker pulls the cloth a little
more than required, then the repair worker repairs the defects. Here the inspection
time is part of the calendering operation. So the time for inspecting and repairing is
only the time for repairing, and one repair worker can attend to the output of one
calendering machine.
For the same output, Practice 1 requires double the number of workers required in
Practice 2. Also, transporting the material, which is a non-value-adding activity, is
eliminated in Practice 2. However, since inspection is done at two stages in Practice 1,
there is less possibility of passing defective cloth in the final product, when this
practice is followed.
Lapping
Two methods are in use in the industry.
METHOD 1:
56
There are two workers for each machine. One worker loads the cloth on
to the lapping machine, and thereafter he goes to the output side. After
lapping is done, the two workers collectively collect the output.
Thereafter the first worker returns to the front and loads the machine for
the next cycle.
The cycle time was observed as 160 seconds for a cloth of 157 yards (143 meters).
Standard time for one cycle, with an allowance of 20%, is 200 seconds. Therefore,
Method 2
There are three workers for every machine: One at the input side to load the cloth on
the machine and two at the output side. Cycle time for producing 119.5 meters cloth
was observed to be 100 seconds. Standard time for one cycle, by taking 20%
allowance, is 125 seconds. Therefore,
A Proposed Method
It is proposed that at the input side one worker can be engaged for loading
two lapping machines and two workers can be engaged at the output
side of one lapping machine. Input worker working time is very less
(20% as in existing method 2). So one worker can easily attend to two
machines, thus improving labour productivity.
Cutting
The cutting process consists of one worker at the input side of the machine and two
workers at the output side. A stopwatch time study was conducted that led the
following loading and operation times for 84 sacking bags:
In this process loading is done concurrently with the cutting operation. So there is no
need to stop the machine to load the cloth.
57
An alternative manning of two input workers for three machines was considered. A
comparison between the existing and the proposed method is given in Table 10.
Table 10: Productivity for Existing and Proposed Manning Pattern for Cutting
Existing method Proposed method
Number of workers One input worker for one Two input workers for three
machine and two output machines and two output
workers for one machine workers for one
machine
Machine productivity 17,280 17,280
(bags/machine/shift)
At present, two workers are employed at the output side of the machine. It is possible
to reduce or even get rid of these two output workers if some mechanical attachment
is used instead. Such a possibility is worth investigating. With this attachment, labour
productivity is likely to increase by about 66 percent.
R. Hemming – (hemstitching)
The manning pattern consists of one operator and one receiver for one machine. The
operator and the receiver together go to the cutting machine and drag a heap of cut
cloth near to the hemming machine. The operator picks up an arbitrary number (about
20-40) of bags and places them on a stool. He picks up one bag at a time, hems the
two sides of the bag, and repeats these operations. The hemmed bags fall to the
ground, the receiver cuts the thread joining the next bag, and places them on the
ground/trolley one above the other.
We conducted time study hemming 100-kg B-Twill (119.87 x 67 cm) cloth. The
normal time for loading comes to 27.5 sec and the normal time for hemming a bag
8.05 seconds. Thus the normal time to hem 30 bags is 30 x 8.05 = 241.5 sec.
Assuming that the various allowances amount to 20%, the standard loading and
hemming times are given as
We estimate that, with the present practices the company should target at a production
figure of 34.375 + 301.875 = 336.25 seconds for 30 bags which is equivalent to
It may be mentioned here that the mill where the study was undertaken had mentioned
in its response to the questionnaire survey that it has already achieved 2,275
bags/shift/machine and that the target production they are aiming at is 3,000
58
bags/machine/shift. This target appears to be ambitious when the existing method is
used.
Proposed Improvement
We propose that the cloth being supplied to the hemming operators should not just be
thrown on the ground; instead it may be kept on a table adjacent to the hemming
machine, so that the loading time is brought down to zero. With this arrangement the
standard time for 30 bags is estimated as 241.5/(1-0.2) = 301.87 sec. The standard
production can thus be estimated as (8x3,600)/(301.87) x 30 = 2,862
bags/shift/machine.
The receiver is idle for nearly 30% of the time. For this, he bents his body by about
150o to pick the hemmed cloth from the ground. We propose that the receiver attends
to two machines, sitting on a rotating stool and picking of the ends of the hemmed
sacks hooked on to a stand. We estimate that the productivity of this arrangement will
increase the worker productivity from the existing 1,285 bags/worker/shift to 1,908
bags/worker/shift.
S. Herackle
It consists of one operator and one receiver for one machine. The operator picks up an
arbitrary number of bags and places them on a stool. He picks up one bag, stitches one
side of the bag, picks up another bag, and repeats the operations. One-side-stitched
bags fall to the ground. The receiver picks up one bag from the ground and cuts the
thread joining next bag, then places them on the ground one above the other. After
receiving a certain number (between 20-40) of bags, he places them near the operator
for stitching their second sides. Then the same process is repeated.
59
Average receiver work time = 165 seconds
The busy time for the receiver = 65 percent of that of the operator.
Average cycle time = 283 seconds
Existing Method 2
It consists of one operator for one machine and two receivers for three machines. This
method differs from the earlier method as far as the operator's job is concerned. The
operator picks up one bag at a time from the stool, stitches one side of bag then
immediately stitches the other side of the bag.
Proposed Method
We propose that while one operator can be assigned to one machine, two receivers
can be assigned to three machines. The whole process is same as that in the existing
method 1. In the existing method 1, we find that the receiver is idle for 35 percent of
the busy time of the operator. So by assigning the output of three machines to two
receivers, busy times of the receiver and that of the operator are balanced.
T. Baling
It consists of four workers for one machine and one pump operator for two pressing
machines. Four workers first arrange the bags or cloth on pressing machine table.
Then pressing is done for some time, and then the bale is tied with clip belts. Stitching
of sides is done while lowering the table.
60
We find the cycle time by a stopwatch time study for sacking as well as for hessian:
________________
Table- I
3. Jute & jute i) Good colourfastness to light & moderate fastness to wash
blended fabric ii) Free from surface hariness & less fibre- shedding
characteristics
iii) Use of eco-friendly dyes
iv) Good draping quality
v) Softer handle
61
4. Gift articles i) Moderate colourfastness to light (for dyed articles)
ii) Anti- soiling/ staining
iii) Colourfastness to water
62
Table –II
Technology Development
63
repellent water proofing agent finishing
e) Fire- Fire-retardant Forms an impervious layer Fire- retardant finishing
retardant cloth for mines preventing the access of oxygen
_______________
64
1. PREAMBLE:
ACTIVITIES:
Diversification of jute mill products from traditional items to a mix variegated non-
traditional products such as mats, matting, bleached and dyed cloth, etc.
Utilisation of jute fibre/ yarns outside the jute mill such as handloom/
powerloom /carpet/ processing/ handicraft sector
Today jute is not only an industrial fibre but caters to a range of new life style and
developed from jute fibre, yarn and fabric. The following are the market leaders in
65
3. Jute & jute blended fabric
4. Gift articles
5. Wall Hangings
The consumers’ demand in respect to the above products is shown in table- I.
But the main technical problems of diversified jute products lie with colourfastness
and wear properties. As a result, the products fetch low price and it affects
consumers’ acceptance. These technical defects need be resolved for successful
development of the enduses. In order to meet the demand, the production base
needs also to be strengthened and quality improved. Moreover from 2005, the
market concepts for domestic and export will be abolished and there will be one
market that is “Global Market”. Both the organised and decentralised sectors are
aware of the needs to equip and upgrade the current standard of working to meet
consumers’ demand and market standards.
Chemical processing of jute is an essential step for value addition and carried out in
fibre, yarn and fabric forms. The processes include scouring, bleaching, dyeing,
printing and finishing. However, jute differs from cotton in chemical composition. The
action of chemicals on jute is somewhat different from that of cotton. The processes
66
The problems/ necessity for each of the above processes have been enumerated in
a) Preparatory process:
process:
(I) Singeing
Jute yarn is very hairy and so a jute fabric has more hairiness than cotton fabric.
The surface hairiness persists even after bleaching and makes printing difficult.
when the mangling is removed by wet processing, the hair becomes pronounced
again. Singeing of jute fabrics gives better results than cropping or shearing but
is not perfect.
(II) Scouring
Jute contains natural impurities like waxes and fats, colouring matter, pectin,
proteins and added impurities like sizes, spinning oil, etc. Scouring of jute, like
cotton, can not be effected by boiling with 3 -4% NaOH under pressure. Scouring
Despite its deeper colour than cotton has, presence of mineral oil (used for
spinning of jute yarn) and starch sizes in jute fabric, it is generally scoured with
an anionic detergent at about 800 C prior to bleaching and dyeing. But an anionic
67
surfactant can not remove mineral oil or unsaponifiable oil and fats properly.
Further, mineral oil, if present in jute goods, interfere not only with absorption of
dyes and fastness properties, but also causes delustering and contributes
additional yellowing on exposure to light.
b) Bleaching:
In bleaching of jute, the chemical reactions are mainly confined to lignin component
which is modified and solubilised. The improvement in colour is dependent on the
extent of oxidation of residual lignin rather than their removal.
c) Dyeing:
Jute has affinity for all classes of dyestuffs generally used for cotton and wool. It is
attributed to presence of both cellulose and non-cellulosic constituents (lignin and
hemicellulose). In addition, jute has the direct affinity for basic and acid dyes, which
have practically no dyeing capacity for cotton. Jute in either grey or bleached state
can be dyed by conventional dyeing methods, but in some cases, certain
modifications to dyeing processes/ recipes are necessary. However, dyes which
show excellent colourfastness to light on cotton and wool will not show same high
colourfastness on jute. This may be due to the following reasons :
ii) The change in colour of the substrate (i.e. undyed jute ) on exposure to light
is due to lignin and lignin in turn accelerates the fading of dyes.
iii) The different auxiliary chemicals used in dyeing with various classes of dyes
have different distinct effects on the colour of the substrate and consequently
causes the apparent fading of colour.
iv) Random selection of dyestuffs by the dyers from colour range of wool dyes (
without knowing their fastness characteristics on jute ) generally results in
68
coloured jute based materials not meeting consumers’ requirement and
market standard.
d) Finishing:
Textile Research Associations (TRAs) have recently carried out considerable work
a) Technological Approach
The technological approach for resolving the technical defects and/ or meeting
the necessities for better consumer acceptance have been mentioned briefly in
fibre properties and also make the fibre more attractive and useful especially for
The Function of emulsified solvent scouring is to remove mineral or jute batching oil
(JBO) together with other adhering/ extraneous impurities. The JBO, if present in
jute, has a delustering effect and also contributes additional yellowing on exposure to
light. The other advantage is that strength of the material processed/ scoured with
emulsified solvent system is not affected.
69
Bleaching of Jute Fiber at the Batching Stage
Root cut jute fibre (TD- 3 or W-3 quality) is steeped in a cement tank containing
alkaline hydrogen peroxide for 10- 12 hours at room temperature. The bleaching is
effected by chemical energy instead of heat.
White to superior white shade can be achieved by the cold bleaching process at
chemical cost of INR 3.50- 6.50/ kg.
Advantages
70
Systematic studies of dyestuffs on jute have been carried out at TRAs. In these
complex, direct, reactive, sulphur, vat and pigment classes were used to test
for the pigment class which was done by pad- dry- cure method on jute. Only 60% of
selected dyestuffs can judiciously applied to jute to achieve the desired level of
colourfastness for various enduses. The list of colourfast dyes can be had from
a) Combined Scouring and Dyeing of Jute with Acid, Basic and Direct Dyes
Conventionally jute is scoured with a detergent at 800C prior to dyeing for the
purpose of removal extraneous dirts, oil and other impurities. The detergents
most commonly used are anionic surfactants which do not remove mineral or
unsaponifiable oil and fats properly. Hence a special scouring agent was
prepared from non-ionic detergent, organic solvent and pine oil to aid the removal
of oil and also assist in wetting out the materials. Dyeing and scouring of jute/
mesta with acid, basic and direct classes of dyestuffs was therefore carried out
separately in a single bath process using the above scouring agent. In case of
direct dyes, a little amount of soda ash was employed.
Merits :
In single-bath bleaching and dyeing process either hydrogen peroxide or sodium perborate can be
used, but generally hydrogen peroxide is employed as bleaching agent. It was therefore used
together with sodium meta-silicate, soda-ash/ caustic soda, common salt and a non-ionic detergent.
Direct dyes sensitive to alkaline oxidation were found unsuitable and direct dyes containing copper
were avoided since it accelerates the catalytic decomposition of hydrogen peroxide.
Benefits:
Substantial savings in –
71
i) Process time ii) Steam energy iii) Electrical energy iv)
Water
Jute is a natural fibre and has natural affinity for natural dyes due to presence free
carboxyl groups (-COOH). Mordants sometimes enhance the colourfastness
properties.
Jute fabric has therefore been dyed with natural colourants in moderate to good
colourfastness characteristics. A shade card for colourfast natural dyes on jute has
been made cataloguing colourfastness properties.
Colourfast printing technology using natural colourants and natural gum or eco-
friendly synthetic thickener has also been developed for home textile and shopping/
fancy bag applications.
Jute bags for ‘Basamati rice’ or shopping/ fancy bags are generally printed with
pigment using kerosene or Mineral Turpentine Oil (MTO). Consequently, it gives off
bad smell and sometimes affects the aroma of the contents.
Finishing plays a key role in increasing marketability of fabrics. With the judicious
application of the softener, resins and other auxiliary chemicals in the finishing
treatments of textiles, various desirable functional characteristics can be achieved.
a) Improvement in Softness
Jute based fabric is treated with a cationic softener for about 20 - 30 min at
400C. The finished material is then squeezed in a padder and then dried.
72
Jute based fabric is treated with a very low concentration of alkali for 30 min
at 80 - 850C. The alkali treated fabric is then rinsed to remove alkali and finally
neutralised with acetic acid. After-treatment of the fabric is carried out with a
small amount of a softening agent such as cationic softener or polyethylene
emulsion.
Woollenising
Rot Proofing
Treatments are generally carried out with a number of selected antiseptics like
copper salt/ soap or copper napthenate, chlorinated phenols, etc.
These agents are superficially deposited on the jute materials either from solution
or by padding technique.
The treatments most commonly applied to jute are the use of wax/ stearate mixtures
by immersion or pad dry method and stabilised rubber latex solution by coating
technique.
The coating technique is generally employed for heavy goods while emulsion
treatments are conducted on lighter materials.
Most of the textile fibres are combustible and hence they can cause fire - hazards
during use.
Jute fabric is treated with flame retardant chemicals like di- ammonium phosphate,
borax - boric acid and ammonium sulphate -di-ammonium phosphate. The treated
73
fabric is dried and then cured. The treated fabric shows satisfactory fire retardant
property but not fast to wash i.e. leachable.
These fire -retardant jute based fabrics find use as underlay for upholstery, wall
covering, curtains and brattice cloth for use in coal mines.
Chemical processing of jute is carried out in the form of fibre, yarn and fabric.
Bleaching and/ or dyeing of jute fibre or yarns is usually done for manufacture of
carpets, mats, matting, etc. while jute fabrics are processed for manufacture of
decorative, carry bags, soft luggage and other life- style usage products.
The equipment and machinery used for jute wet processing are very conventional
and labour intensive (Table-III & IV).
Jute fibre or yarns are mostly processed in tanks or vats and a few jute mills have
loose stock/ yarn package dyeing machine. After bleaching / dyeing, the materials
are hydroextracted and dried in chamber dryer or in air under shade.
But jute fabrics, being heavy and coarse, are processed in open-width form in jigger
machine and not in rope form. After processing, the excess water is removed by
pneumatic padding mangle prior to drying on vertical drying range. Sometimes the
fabrics are processed through weft straightener for maintenance of width and
calendared to improve fabric handle, surface texture and appearance. Special
finishing treatment is however carried out by pad- dry/ cure technique using
pneumatic padding mangle and hot air stenter (clip type).
Bleached and/ or dyed jute fabric are laminated with low density polythene (LDPE)
on extrusion plant for shopping bag, rice bag and soft luggage applications
Printing of jute fabric is mostly done by print- dry and/ or curing method using screen,
pigment emulsion and synthetic pigment binder.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT :
The author is thankful to Mr. T. Nanda Kumar, Secretary General, International Jute
Study Group, Dhaka, Bangladesh for inviting me to present this paper at Lahore
Workshop, Pakistan
Thanks are also due to Mr. Sourav Das, Executive Director, National Centre for Jute
Diversification (NCJD) & Deputy Jute Commissioner for rendering valuable
suggestions for preparation of the paper and permission to present the paper for
larger interest of jute mills of Pakistan.
74
Table- III
C. General
i) Boiler
ii) Soft-water plant
iii) Effluent treatment Plant
Table- IV
Machine Purpose
1. JIG Wet processing of jute fabric in open-width form
3. Cylinder drying Drying method for open-width fabric by contact with steam-
heated cylinder
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7. Effluent Treatment Plant Treatment of dye-house process waste on site.
______________
1.0. INTRODUCTION
The reduction of cost of jute products is a prime issue and is a matter of concern to us all. In
the present context of increasing awareness of environment throughout the world, people are
becoming more inclined to natural resources, more so to the annually renewable argo-
resources like jute, kenaf etc. The emerging concern for the environment all over the world
will definitely favour natural fibre products over synthetic counterparts. The competitors of
natural fibre products mainly the synthetic/plastic groups/lobbies of the rich and developed
countries are strong and working for expansion of PP market. The bulk use of jute as
packaging materials like bags/sacks for agricultural and industrial products are under constant
pressure from those groups on different issues relating to processing. trading, certification, etc.
To combat this situation jute will have to compete with other fibres in terms of performance
and also in a cost-effective way.
It is well known that jute is a labour-intensive crop being cultivated mostly by small farmers
in the producing countries. Since both the cost of labour and agricultural inputs is on the rise,
the possibility of reduction in the raw jute price seems unlikely unless significant increase in
76
the yield of jute per acre of land is achieved. So the alternative route to increase the
competitiveness of jute products is to make an attempt to reduce the cost of industrial
processing of jute.
2.0 PRODUCTIVITY
In the recent years, there has been a realization that an increased productivity is a strategic
element for development. Productivity is generally defined as a ratio of output of benefits to
input of resources. It implies how much input resources are required for the production of a
certain amount of output. It means efficient use and effective utilization of different inputs.
Productivity is not production. The term “productivity” is often confused with the term
“production”. Many people think that greater the production, the greater the productivity. This
is not necessarily true. Production is concerned with the activity of producing goods and
services while productivity is concerned with the efficient utilization of resources (input) in
producing goods or services (output). In quantitative terms, production is the quantity of
output produced, while productivity is the ratio of the output produced to the inputs used.
In case of jute mills each individual jute mill sets its own target of productivity based on the
type of products, machinery and technology available, skill of the man power available and
other necessary resources at their disposal. This target varies from mill to mill due to variation
of input resources available. So it is difficult to design a common target of productivity
applicable to all the mills. To overcome this difficulty, a hypothetical target (norms) for each
individual product can be set on the basis of available machinery and technology vis-à-vis
optimising the man-machine ratio, workload, energy consumption and consumption of other
resources. Performance of the mills can be compared by the extent of achievement of the
target. By analyzing the achievement gap, individual mill can adopt proper measures to bridge
the gap.
Man-days per ton is the traditional way to measure productivity in the jute mills. This figure
obviously varies from country to country. The difference between a high and a low figure
shows that the best figure is only about 1/3 of the highest. This means that the labour cost of
about 36% could be greatly reduced to 12%, leaving an extra 24% for other costs and could,
on the average, by itself generate break even.
However, one can also calculate net productivity and overall productivity as follows:
77
The difference in net labour productivity and overall labour productivity may be attributed to
idle-hours for various reasons like machine breakdown, delay in raw material supply, power
failure/lack of power, lack of tools, delay in required instructions, or idle hours due to other
reasons.
A number of productivity indices may be defined but management has to do proper resource
allocation and utilization. If the full machine capacity is not utilized and if the product mix
and machine balancing and scheduling are not done scientifically there may arise a situation
where even with increase in labour productivity, profit ratio may go down. The computation
of labour productivity alone will hardly be adequate or purposive enough for a mill
management in realistic term.
However, in jute mills, presently the following indices are being considered.
Actual Production
Machine productivity index (MPI) = x 100
Standard production
MPI MPI
Productivity Index (PI) = ------ x 100 or ----- x 100
LER MTI
So, to improve productivity, either MPI is to be increased (>100) and LER or MTI is to be
reduced (< 100).
In a study of inter-farm comparison conducted by IJIRA3,4 it has been reported that the
representative averages of MPI, LER and PI are found to be around 85, 103 and 82. Thus,
performance of the industries falls short (average including both spinning and weaving) of
15% achievable standards. It can be estimated that cost economy to the extent of US$ 10-12
per metric ton can be obtained by improving productivity to the expected standard level by
implementation of proper strategy and taking care of identified causes.
An inter-firm comparison study was conducted by ATIRA, India which was based on the fact
that it permitted each participating mill to assess its own level of performance in relation to
the other mills in the industry. The indices of productivity permit such a comparison directly
i.e. without having to ask questions about average count, range of counts spun, proportion of
combed production etc. and without any need for adjustments in the indices to take account of
factors. To illustrate, a mill with a Productivity Index (PI) of 60 is poorer in performance than
another mill with P I = 80, no matter how different the two mills are. Such a comparison is
possible because of the approach used for computing productivity which will be briefly
outlined here.
The most important property of any index to be used for comparing the performance of
different mills is that the index should not be influenced by factors such as the counts being
spun, or the type of fabrics manufactured, percentage production on combed counts or dobby
or automatic looms or on different types of fibres and blends and any other similar aspect of
the manufacturing policy of an individual mill. At the same time, the index should
appropriately reflect factors such as production rates, machine efficiency, extent of machinery
modernization, level of maintenance of machinery, degree of rationalisation in labour
employment, etc. In short, the indices used for measuring performance should be independent
78
of all factors which relate to what to manufacture but should reflect all factors which relate to
how to manufacture. Such a system of indices developed by ATIRA for measuring and
analysing the performance of the spinning and weaving departments of a mill in terms of
productivity.
i) Process optimisation through linear balancing of machinery. This will eliminate the
problems of jute loss, process wastes, etc. Based on the length of warp and weft
required in weaving for a specific number of looms, machinery required in up stream
and down-stream processes can be worked out.
The role of quality and process control in any manufacturing organisation need not
be over emphasized. It serves dual function of minimising the rejection and
improving the quality of the products during manufacturing in one hand and ensures
the customers’ satisfaction through inspection of finished goods on the other hand.
Though the jute industry has an established Quality Control system, there has to be a
sound Quality and Process Control system to improve the quality of the products and
productivity.
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4.0 COST REDUCTION
Jute mills have to reduce their costs by taking appropriate measures in certain areas of their
operational activities. In fact, if the following guide-lines are followed strictly, cost could be
reduced to the extent of about 20%, if not more, in some of the areas.
a) The target of productivity is to be increased so that each unit can produce more within the
same working hours. This could be achieved by increasing efficiency. 1% change in the
labour productivity may well bring about a net change of about 18% in the total
population5.
b) The production target must be fixed at a higher level than already fixed and such
production must be at economic cost and at an increased productivity norm.
c) To ensure higher production by increasing the efficiency, the mills must ensure avoiding
idle machinery hours. All steps should be taken to ensure that none of the machinery in
the process remains idle. Idle machinery in the Processing Departments will result in yarn
shortage and similarly, idle looms will create stock piling in the Beaming and Winding
Departments. Idle machinery in the Finishing Departments will cause stock piling and
will affect the export shipment.
A worker earns his daily wages by mere attendance and does not feel any compulsion to
produce more. This has resulted in variation in output among the same category of workers
within the same mill. An effective productivity-link wage may be introduced to overcome this
situation. By this system an efficient worker will be rewarded with higher income and an
errant worker will be penalized. However, management is to ensure the proper inputs and
machinery condition.
In addition to this, idle hour payments are an additional burden towards cost of production.
Supervision should be geared up to ensure that the machine-man is attending to his
operational activities without interruptions and that idle machine hours are avoided totally.
1) Quality of raw material (Jute) used should be reasonably good, as low quality
jute increases processing cost.
4) Wastage of all sorts, raw material, electricity, water and coal should be avoided.
5) Processing parameters should be laid down and it must be ensured that the same
are maintained and sustained.
80
environment conducive for higher productivity which ultimately reduces cost
and improves market competitiveness.
Productivity and machine efficiency depend upon managements’ will and ability to arrange a
steady flow of material and that machines are in proper working order and manned by trained
operators.
Resource planning is an approach to help managers plan their use of resources in the most
efficient manner. Resource planning looks at outstanding tasks (workload) and suggests an
optimal plan to complete those tasks. It considers most of the resources e.g. raw material,
manpower, machinery and equipment, and other resources, priority of tasks and production
time, etc.
Bench marking may also be helpful in adopting better practices for overall improvement of a
mill.
Feedback is the process of adjusting future actions based upon information about past
performance. There are many applications of the idea in various disciplines. Feedback
involves interdependence of one part of a system with another. Management can prioritize the
activities for better performance.
5.1 Manpower
One of the major impedance of productivity improvement is the attitude of the workers’
and lack of the sense of belongingness to the organization. Formation of Productivity
Improvement Cell or Quality Control Circle may bring about attitudinal change of the
worker.
Supervisors are the interlocutor between the management and the workers. It has been
observed that most of the supervisors employed in the jute industry do not possess the
adequate technical knowledge or the initiative. In absence of any defined job
description, the supervisors in most of the time are chasing wild geese. The quality of
supervisor should be improved through HRD programme.
Jute machinery are mostly non-automatic in type and requires constant attention and
servicing from the operator to deliver output. The operator as well as the support service
providers plays the most vital role in improving machine productivity. Work load on the
workers are to be standardized and man-machine ratio is to be optimized and standard
machine and labour productivity are to be determined.
It is a fact that in existing jute mills about 20% of the total workforce cost is shared by
material handling alone and their number is roughly 30-35% of the total labour force
who are mostly unskilled. By introducing specially designed crane and/or fork lift in the
raw jute go-down for storing and stacking of jute bales and palletization in the batch
house for transportation of materials in selection, softening, piling, root cutting and card
feeding about 50% labour force can be reduced thereby saving on wages.
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The effective working of an organisation is not only dependent upon the infrastructure and
proper utilisation of resources but also on motivation and team work. Here is an example of a
jute mill, where productivity has been improved through Optimum Utilization of Existing
Capacity. The success story reflects the achievement of a highly dedicated team of
Management, Supervisors and employees. The Team approach flourishes in which the leader
delegates effectively and team members communicate in an atmosphere of mutual trust and
respect. This case highlights “how to approach the improvement of productivity and to bring
to the grassroots level employees a feeling of belonging, a feeling of job satisfaction and job
enrichment” for achieving higher productivity. How much the management team at the factory
level can achieve by optimum utilisation of Man, Machine and Material is reflected by saving
through cost reduction.
In this connection reference may be made about a jute mill of Bangladesh which provides
incentives to workers for working without taking any leave in a certain period. They also
ensure that the same worker attempts to the same machine every working day. This helps the
management in getting appropriate information about the reactions and also ensures the
targeted production.
Jute industry in the subcontinent started from 1855-59 with 8 ton spinning capacity and 192
looms. Presently, there are 78 jute mils in India producing over 1.6 million tons of jute goods
per annum and 136 jute mills in Bangladesh producing about 0.5 million metric tons of jute
goods per annum
In Bangladesh jute mills were established during the span of 20 years from 1950’s to 1970’s 6.
The jute mills’ infrastructural plan, design and lay-out were more or less the same prototype
ones that are capable of handling and transporting jute through several processes of jute to
finished products. The factory buildings and layout plans do not have the facilities of dust
collection, dust extraction, de-dusting, noise absorbing or conditioning systems as these are
the basic requirements of any modern textile mills, for that matter of jute mills.
Improved material handling systems are to be introduced for better handling of materials at a
quicker pace and at lower cost. Scope of improved material handling is to be assessed keeping
in view of the lay out, floor condition etc. Indian jute industry has already successfully
introduced Fork lift in jute go-down and Finished go-down. Scope for extending the improved
handling system in other areas is to be explored.
There are at least 25 to 30 steps of handling and transportation of raw jute and processing jute
within mill/factory premises to produce finished jute products. These are done manually. That
means to produce 1 metric ton of finished jute products the process needs to handle, lift, store
and transport 25 to 30 metric tons of processed materials through different processing
zones/stages by ordinary carts/trolley/basket on trolley, driven manually.
By introducing specially designed cart fitted with spikes in the spinning area for transportation
of spinning bobbins to winding department in place of basket-on-trolley will be able to reduce
work force by about 30%. Similar saving in labour wages can be achieved in all the material
handling areas in jute mills by improving the following which do not require major capital
investment.
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- Floors to be suitable for smooth movement of forklifts, carts, trolleys and other related
activities.
- Establish Threshold Limit Value (TLV) of Air pollutant, Noise and Vibration of
Machinery of Jute Mills.
- Implement ILO Convention No. 148 and its Recommendation No. 156 concerning the
Protection of Workers against Occupational Hazards in the Working Environment due to
Air Pollution, Noise and Vibration in Jute Mills.
- Introduce Dust Collection, Dust Extraction, De-dusting, Vibration and Noise Absorbing
System in the Mills.
- Optimum utilization of man, machinery and material to make every stage as an individual
profit centre.
Maintenance and repair activities are integral parts of production and productivity. The
management needs to be aware of the need for excellent machine maintenance and up-keep of
the machines. A planned programme for preventive maintenance, overhauling and machine
auditing in a systematic manner is necessary to have optimum machine utilization with
minimum down time. Yearly schedule for maintenance is to be prepared and adhered to.
Periodic review of these schedules is to be made to ensure that they were carried out properly.
With the help of a maintenance manual, jobs to be done in machines of different sections are
to be carried out to ensure maintenance of high order.
On the basis of this assessment machines lying in the lower grades may be updated through
maintenance and extent of improvement is again assessed on the basis of performances.
Standardisation of specification and quality of spare parts result in better performance of the
machines.
The notion that expenditure on maintenance is unproductive is to be banished from the mind.
Inadequate maintenance will result in total collapse of machinery and may invite much higher
investment.
It may be mentioned here that International Jute Study Group (IJSG) recently
implemented a project entitled “Road Map for jute industry” and organized one
83
International Seminar at Geneva and two workshops at Kolkata and Dhaka. Participants
in these Workshops expressed the need for up-gradation/ improvement in the present
machinery for reducing the cost of conversion. This will also need better quality fibre for
producing better products and also for producing products for diversified uses.
R&D activities initiated by IJIRA and BJRI on the up-gradation of machinery for
improving the productivity of the machines may be cited here.
Stages Benefit
1. Reduction of softener rollers to 16 pairs - Saving of energy, space
6. Self rotating bobbin holder for scroll winding - Reduction of thread waste
machine
Stages Benefit
84
Stages Benefit
C. BJRI has successfully modified apron draft spinning machine into ring system by adding
rings and travelers instead of flyers. The speed could be as high as 9000 rpm.
Stage Benefit
Moreover, efforts are being made to develop/adopt high speed rapier looms for both
conventional and diversified products. Efforts are also being made to modify other machinery.
It may be mentioned here that IJSG is currently implementing a Project on Design and
Development of Metallic card clothing through IJIRA by which it would be possible to have
more fibre separation which will allow to spin finer and regular yarn.
For modernization of the jute industry the IJSG Secretariat, on the basis of recommendations
of the recently completed project on “Road Map for Jute Industry”, would endeavor to take
up projects with machine manufacturing companies for up-gradation/ modification of jute mill
machinery so as to bring down the production cost and also man-days per ton.
In pursuance of a decision of the Private Sector Consultative Board (PSCB) of IJSG the IJSG
Secretariat received the following Suggestions for Improvement in Machine & Labour
Productivity from IJIRA:
85
Selection 27 bales/ Assessed through work study
of bales man/shift
Selection 6.5 MT/man/ Use of material handling equipment
to Batching shift improves productivity from 1.75
MT/man/shift
Softening 2.86 hands/ Replacement of softener by spreader
machine/shift enables reduction of man power to the
extent of 9.14 men/ machine/shift
Cards 20% higher Replacement of old card by new high
delivery speed productive card.
7.2 Material
Since the mills have little control over the availability of good quality fibre, the available
fibres need to be upgraded. Both BJRI and IJIRA have developed enzymatic techniques
for upgradation of low grade jute fibre which can be helpful in this respect.
Erstwhile IJO has implemented a project on the identification and application of suitable
enzymes for upgradation of low quality fibres. An enzyme plant has been set up in
86
Nawab Abdul Malek Jute Mill in Bangladesh for production of enzymes. Enzyme is
being produced at the plant and successfully applied by Nawab Abdul Malek Jute Mill.
Alternative uses may be developed for better utilization of these wastes. Good quality
pulp can be made with the jute caddis. It may be mentioned here that an entrepreneur in
Bangladesh has taken up a project to produce pulp from jute waste. Entrepreneurship
also may be developed in Pakistan for making pulp from jute caddis.
Jute mills are energy intensive. Energy cost accounts for about 8.5 – 10.5% of the
product cost depending on the product mix.
Productivity is also influenced by power cuts. Some mills experience frequent cuts in the
power supply. This alone makes investment in new machines not viable. It is difficult to
ask workers to work hard when there are long idle periods.
About 40% of the total energy consumption is in the spinning followed by weaving
(25%) preparing (15%) and winding-beaming (10%). About 85% of the electrical energy
consumed in jute mill is directly engaged in production, 12% in auxiliary section like
workshop, water supply, etc. and 3% is consumed in lighting. The trend in electrical
consumption in mills reveals that there is an increase in the annual consumption. Energy
conservation efforts should be made with greater importance.
Energy Management is an activity that ensures efficient use of energy without reducing
the production level or lowering product quality, safety or environmental standards.
The jute mills cannot improve performance without well motivated and properly trained
managers. At a BJRI Seminar in 1988, it was pointed out that one reason for the problems in
the jute industry was that it did not employ enough managers with high academic
qualifications and proper training.
There are many areas where cost reduction is possible. The best results are naturally obtained
by an overall approach and not just by savings in individual areas although these are
necessary. In reality, a change in attitude is required where optimum resource utilization is the
daily key issue for a jute mill manager.
There are several approaches to cost reduction and quality improvements by:
87
- Developing more value added diversified jute or jute blended products
- Improving the competitive position of jute by the development and introduction
of a new generation of jute processing technology.
The following are specific ideas that could assist in improving financial performance in jute
mills.
- The use of tubular fabrics, to be woven on flat looms, for sacks. This can reduce sewing
time.
Once termed a “sunset industry”, jute now offers fashionable, eco-friendly products that are
attracting new consumers – thanks to innovative applications in the automotive industry,
fashion, furnishings and landscape management.
In contrast to other major commodities, whose prices declined steeply between 1980 and 2002,
jute was able to withstand the downward pressure, rising from US$ 369 per ton in 1980 to
US$ 400 in 2002.
References
5. Chowdhury, A Momin (1981), A Method for Designing an Incentive System for the Jute
Industry of Bangladesh in particular and for the nationalized Industries in general.
7. T.K. Roy, G. Chattopadhyay & Dr. D. Sur, Resource Management for the Improvement of
Total Productivity in the Jute Industry - Workshop on Productivity Improvement in Jute
Industry, IJSG 2003.
_________
88
VIRTUE OF JUTE FIBRE IN THE GLOBAL TECHNICAL
TEXTILE MARKET
P. RAY
1. Introduction
Recently there is renewed interest for agro based natural fibre such as jute and kenaf
in the light of growing global concern for environmental preservation and control of
pollution. Jute and allied fibres can certainly be considered as a potential candidate for
many of the eco-friendly products that will replace majority of today's popular
products posing severe threats to our environment. Growing market for natural fibre
based industrial applications offers new possibilities for jute and kenaf fibre. In order
to meet the challenge in this area, products made ot of jute and kenaf fibre should
conform the stringent quality specifications while may be achieved by i) improvement
in quality of the existing fabric and ii) production of lighter fabrics. Also there is a
scope to create newer market with innovative products by adoption of new
technologies for use of jute and kenaf in technical textiles, composite materials and
other industrial applications.
Use of commodity fibre for the manufacture of technical textile however, centres
around polypropelene, polyester and nylon chiefly, in view of consideration of
following much needed aspect of a textile fibre for technical application such as
tensile, flexural and torsional property, fatigue and abrasion resistance, compressional
resilience, surface tension, thermal, hygral, sonic behaviour, electrical conductivity,
microbial resistance, UV resistance, absorbency and breathability. But natural fibres
89
like jute and kenaf do posses many of the above properties, which have not been
exploited properly for engineering the fabric to be used for technical textiles. Rigby in
his report illustrated the world market shares for different fibres (Fig. 1)1 . It is evident
from the figure that natural fibre of bast and leaf origin will be having an important
role to play in the field of Technical textiles.
Cotton,
Steel Polyester &
22% Nylon
30%
Glass and
ceram ic
13%
90
Bast and leaf fibres do posses higher strength and
stiffness and much lower extensibility, indicates
that these eco friendly bast and leaf fibres are
stronger and dimensionally stable. Such fibres
deserve attention while developing strong,
dimensionally stable and flexible technical textiles.
The potential of bast and leaf fibres are not at all
exploited to produce technical textiles although the
mechanical characteristics are very encouraging.
When one considers the bast and leaf fibres grown
in South Asia, jute and kanaf automatically qualify
for their properties and availability. Jute and kenaf
have much higher relative strength as well as cost
competitive as compared to other bast and leaf
fibre for producing cost effective technical textiles.
Single fibre
Gravimetric fineness (tex) 1.25-5
Tenacity (g/tex) 30-50
Extension at break (%) 1.0-2.0
Initial modulus (g/tex) 1170-1980
91
Modulus of Rigidity ( 103 GPa) 0.25-1.3
Flexural rigidity (10 -9 N.m2 ) 3.0-6.0
Fibre Bundle
Tenacity (g/tex) 13-35
Density (g/cm3) 1.45
General
Moisture regain (%) at 65% RH 12.0
at 100% RH 36.0
Refractive Index (parallel to fibre axis) 1.577
(perpendicular to fibre axis) 1.536
Specific heat (Cal/g/0C) 0.324
Thermal Conductivity (cal/sec/cm2/0C/cm) 0.91X10-4
Electrical resistance (ohm) 5 X 1010
Dielectric constant 2.8
Jute fibre, like other natural fibres, is hygroscopic. With water jute filament swells 23% in diameter,
40% in cross section and 0.06% in length.
The products are aesthetically pleasing, versatile in nature and environmentally safe. Jute fibre has high
strength and modulas, low extensibility, appreciable moisture regain, good dyeability with almost all
types of dyes and good thermal stability.
Absorption of water vapour changes the dimensions of the filament as well as its
mechanical and electrical properties. One further aspect, which is of special
importance, is degree of porosity usually found in vegetable fibres in general, which
is chiefly a result of the empty lumens of the cells. This hollow nature of jute fibre
may impart acoustic insulation property. Any fibrous material will offer some
resistance against the transmission of heat and sound because of the air traps within
the individual fibres and also between the fibres. The specific surface area and
porosity of the fibre is an important factor governing the amount of entrapped air in to
the fibre assembly.
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Jute Fibre Woven/Non-
Yarn woven/Knitted
Non-woven
Cord/Twine (Jute Woven
Twine) Agrotech (Scrim Cloth, Net,
Buildtech (Jute fibre
leno, Nonwoven pre fabricated
Composites Reinforced composite)
jute drain)
Industrial Applications Packaging
(Cordage and rope,
marine rope, industrial
belt, webbing) Rigid Flexible Geotech Hometech (Furnishing,
Traditional Non-Traditionall
(Jute-PET or Jute-PP (Coated Jute Fabric) (Soil saver Fabric, jute Matt, upholstery)
Packaging Packaging
composite) ) woven and nonwoven fabric)
(Jute Sack)
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Few thrust areas of application of jute based technical textiles have been
mentioned in the following tables-2.1-2.7.
Table-2.1 - Jute Packaging Textiles
Specific End-Uses
Property Advantages
Non slip nature, stack stability, high Besides conventional jute bags for packaging
strength & modulus, low extensibility, agricultural and industrial commodities, non-traditional
jute bags includes postal bags, tea-bags, shopping bags,
good dimensional stability, good moisture
waste disposal bags, portfolios, carry bags, school bags,
absorption and air permeability, favourable vegetable bags, collapsible/folded bags, multipurpose
hook resistance and cut resistance, low cost low-volume jute bags and soft luggage and eco-friendly
& easy availability, agro-renewability, food grade jute bags satisfying IJO-98/01 specifications.
ecofriendly nature and biodegradability.
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quality, easy dissipation of kinetic energy of raindrops, good agricultural textiles for sun screens,
absorption of moisture and attenuation of wind effects,
plant nets, wind shield, harvesting
improvement of micro-climatic conditions (viz. temperature &
nets, field-nets for protecting crop
moisture), enhancement of organic matter levels and nutrient to
the soil, irregular surface morphology preventing lateral and
from birds, weed protection,
rotational slides, high air & water permittivity and mulching on seed bed, soil
transmittivity, vegetation & bio-technical support, eco- conservation, development of forests
compatibility & soil friendliness, easy availability, low cost and in semi-arid zones, nursery pots and
agro-renewability.
nets etc.
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eliminates use of hazardous prior treatment belt used in food processing
of the textile substrate with adhesion units, awnings, canopy,
promoter).
architectural textiles, breathable
aprons for pesticide operation,
mackintosh, double texture
rubberised fabric for luggage,
flexible hood for automobiles,
compact coated textiles, outdoor
protective cover etc.
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consumers around the globe regarding the advantage of jute would effectively promote
use of jute.
References:
1. R. David, The World Technical Textiles Industry and its Markets: Prospects to 2005, Published by
Messe Frankpuit /Techtextile (1997).
2..Chattopadhyay S.N., Day A, Sanyal SK, Kundu AB, Pan NC & Mitra BC, Jute for
Apparel use, Ind. Text J, July (1997), p 14.
3.Pandey SN, Day A, Chattopadhyay SN & Pan NC, Recent advances in resin finishing
of jute and jute blended textiles, Ind Text J, July (1993) p 30.
4.Bhuian AM, Recent achievement of BJRI, in International Jute Organisation (Dhaka)
report on seminar of experts / specialists on industrial (R&D) and manufacturing
technology of jute, Kenaf & allied fibres, held at IJO (presently IJSG), Dhaka, IJO /V
/Industry (1986) 66/ p5.
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