2011

Guide to La Rochelle,
Poitou-Charentes, France
Tourist attractions, holidays and things to do and see in the
Poitou-Charentes
So, why choose the Poitou-Charentes for a holiday? Well first of all, as well as lots of things to do
and fabulous tourist attractions, there’s the climate. The region is south of the Loire Valley and parts of the
Poitou-Charentes are reckoned to have the most sunshine hours a year in France outside of the
Mediterranean.

The summers are generally quite long, warm and sunny, though you can expect a few rainy days too, while
the autumns are usually clear and bright. The winters can get cold the further inland you go, but they don’t
last long, and you can often expect a warm spell in March or even February.

Another great reason is the food and wine in the Poitou-Charentes. It’s not only home to cognac, but also
the underrated aperitif pineau and some excellent local wine - especially from the Haut-Poitou area in the
north of the region close to the Loire Valley.

The region is equally and rightly noted for its great local delicacies too – for example cheese, honey,
poultry, butter and snails – as well as fine restaurants, hotels, cafes and bars.

Then there is the sheer variety of things to do and see in the Poitou-Charentes, such as leisure
parks, golf and beautiful towns and villages. It’s divided into four departments – the Charente, Charente-
Maritime, Deux-Sèvres and the Vienne – and each has its own charms, character and tourist attractions.

Tourist attractions and things to see and do in historic La

Rochelle
La Rochelle is one of France’s loveliest coastal towns. Its historic port is beautifully preserved with a
quayside that bustles with boats small and large, the seafront is packed full of lively cafes, bars and
restaurants where you can stop and watch the world go by.

Tourist attractions are everywhere. Walk through the striking Gothic gateway, Porte de la Grosse Horloge
and you enter a maze of pedestrianised streets, flanked by seventeenth and eighteenth century buildings

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 that are now home to boutique shops selling everything
from fashion and homeware to delicious pastries and fresh
bread, books and antiques.

The town was first founded as a fishing village in the 10th

century but grew rapidly, especially after it was given a
charter by Eleanor of Aquitaine. From the 14th to the 16th
century it was one of France's great maritime cities, its
wealth based on trade with the New World.

However, it suffered during the French Wars of Religion –

Cardinal Richelieu authorised a 14-month blockade in a fight
against the protestant Huguenot; this siege in 1627 is the
backdrop to much of Alexandre Dumas’ famous novel, ‘The
Three Musketeers’. In the following centuries it again built
up its trade, this time with the New World, and the city
again became prosperous.

It has long been a French favourite with luminaries including

Voltaire and Rabelais and Jean-Paul Sartre who went to
school here associated with the town. Today, the French
flock here for its tourist attractions, great atmosphere and
its proximity to the golden sands of the Atlantic beaches
and beautiful off-shore islands.

What to see and do:

Le Vieux Port: the old port area of La Rochelle is dominated by three 14th and 15th century towers that
stand tall at the entrance and is one of the town's best tourist attractions. The oldest is la Tour de la
Chaine, so called because a huge chain was slung from it across to Tour St-Nicolas on the other side. Just
over 400 years ago the first settlers to Quebec left from La Rochelle and Tour de la Chaine now houses a
permanent exhibition celebrating this. It’s open daily. Perhaps most interesting is Tour de la Lanterne that
was originally built as a beacon for shops but subsequently became a prison for pirates, enemy seamen
including the British, then Huguenots and finally clergy during the revolution. The only surviving medieval
lighthouse on the Atlantic coast, you can still see graffiti inscribed on the walls by captured English seamen.
The view from the top is worth the climb. It’s open daily except Tuesdays. Tel: 05 46 34 11 81.

Take in the views: in La Rochelle you're spoilt for choice when it comes to beautiful views. As mentioned
above, the vista from the top of the Tour de la Lanterne is wonderful. Then there's the walk from the old
port to the modern new harbour of Port des Minimes which gives a great view of the town. If you don't
feel like walking, take the 'bus de mer', a small boat that runs between the Vieux Port at Tour de la Chaine
and quay number 10 at the Port des Minimes. It costs under €2 each. tel: 05 46 34 02 22.

Watch the sun go down from La Plage des Minimes. Another great spot is on the clifftops by the Port de
Plomb - here the sun sets over the Ile de Ré bridge.

For a sense of the town, sit yourself down at one of the port cafés and watch the hustle and bustle around
you.

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Town architecture: because of its two
periods of prosperity, La Rochelle is an
interesting mix of Gothic and Renaissance
architecture. Make sure you see the Gothic
gateway Porte de la Grosse Horloge. Within
the streets stretching back from the seafront,
Réaumur, Admyrault and Saint-Jean streets
are known for their beautiful mansions. See
also the Hôtel de Ville, started around 1600
during the reign of Henri IV (guided tours
available), and considered one of the most
beautiful yown halls in France. Also of note is
the 18th century Hôtel de la Bourse (now the Chamber of Commerce) and on rue Augustines, the Maison
Henri II.

For a selection of guided tours, see the tourist office. One that's definiitely worth doing is the two-hour
night time tour called Les Rondes de Nuit - led by guides in costume and holding lanterns, it's a very
differnt and atmospheric way to see the town. The tour is every Thursday, from July to mid-September and
is by reservation only.

You can also cycle around La Rochelle, using the yellow bikes that are free – you will need to collect your
hours are free; then it's €1 per hour. Once you're on your way you can pick up and leave the bike at spots
all over the town. As well, there are about 180km of cycle routes in the city and around the surrounding
area.

Plage des Minimes: La Rochelle is not known for its

Don’t Miss
The town’s daily market takes
over the streets around Place du
Marché. For an eye-boggling
array of fresh seafood, head to
the seafood market at Rue
Marche.
For the best ice-cream, then
head straight for Ernest le
Glacier, a family business
renowned for their fantastic ice-
creams in fabulous flavours.
There are two shops: 15-16 rue
du Port and opposite at 18 rue
Port.
beaches – there are excellent ones just a short distance away
along the coast on the nearby islands. However, this beach is
where the beau monde like to come to see and be seen. If
you're looking for somewhere to watch the sunset, then it's
the perfect choice. La Plage de la Concurrence in town has a
great view of the town.
The Aquarium: one of Europe’s best aquariums and a great
day out for adults and children alike. A lift simulates a ride
seep into the sea and from there visitors can see the more
than 10,000 sea creatures on display including a 20m deep
shark tank over three levels. Quai Louis Prunier; tel 05 46 34
00 00;
Musée Maritime: the newly overhauled maritime museum
opens in a brand new space, adding to the two ships – a
former metrological survey frigate and fishing trawler – that
already are part of the exhibition about La Rochelle’s
seafaring history. Place Bernard Moitessier; tel 05 46 28 03
00; www.museemaritimelarochelle.fr

Museum d’Histoire Naturelle: La Rochelle's impressive Natural History Museum is an eclectic

collection of more than 10,000 objects from Africa, America and Oceania that includes fossils, stuffed birds

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and animals including giraffes and leopards, tribal masks and furniture. 28 rue Albert 1er; tel 05 46 41 18
25; www.museum-larochelle.fr

Musée du Nouveau Monde: exhibitions devoted to France’s historic and cultural ties to the New World
continents of North and South America. Housed in one of La Rochelle’s grand mansions, the collection
includes paintings, engravings, drawings, sculptures, ancient maps and decorative art objects. 10 rue
Fleuriau; tel: 05 46 41 46 50

Musée du Flacon à Parfum: an unusual

museum but well worth a look, on dispay are
more than 1,000 perfume bottles including
designs by the famous houses of Dior and
Hermés. One of the most interesting pieces is
‘Aphrodite de Cnide’, a bottle in the shape of a
face that was manufactured by Baccarat, and
based on a drawing made by Salvador Dali. 33 Rue
du temple; tel 05 46 41 32 40

Musée des Automates: another of La

Rochelle's quirkier museums - here on display are antique moving figurines, from very small to life-size, of
the type seen in shop displays and events where robots were used to draw in the crowds. Rue la Désirée,
la Ville en Bois; tel 05 46 41 68 08.

Musée des Modeles Réduits: housed in the same building as the Musée des Automates, this museum is
devoted to model cars, boats, trains and aeroplanes. The computer-controlled naval battle scene is great
fun. Rue la Désirée, la Ville en Bois; tel 05 46 41 68 08.

Musée d'Orbigny-Bernon: features items on the history of

Travel Tips...
La Rochelle is a myriad of one-
way streets which can make
driving into the town somewhat
stressful. If you don't have
satnav - and even if you do! -
make sure you get your hands
on a map that details the one-
way system. If you don't fancy
negotiating your way around,
then park at the Jean Moulin car
park next to the Parc des
Expositions and take the free
shuttle bus that runs every ten
minutes and takes you to the
town centre. You can also park,
this time free of charge, at Les
Minimes and take the sea bus
(runs about every hour) to town.
the city plus a collection of porcelain, paintings, and a section
on Far Eastern art, containing artefacts brought back by
French diplomat Baron Charles de Chassiron, after whom the
lighthouse on Île d'Oléron is named. 2, rue Saint-Côme. Tel:
05 46 41 18 83
ATTRACTIONS NEAR LA ROCHELLE:
Île de Ré: nicknamed the French Hamptons, the island of Île
de Ré is famous for its pretty villages of white-washed houses
and gardens of hollyhocks, beaches of fine sand and expanses
of wild rosemary. For more information, see Île de Ré
DETAILS:
Tourist office: 2 Quai Georges Simenon, Le Gabut; tel 05
46 41 14 68. It's English-language guide, La Rochelle Tourism,
is worth picking up, and includes a detailed, three-hour walk
through the town.
Accommodation: search for hotels and B&Bs and self-
catering accommodation in La Rochelle.

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Where to eat: seafood is obviously the main attraction here, although the town also has a selection of
international restaurants. Search for restaurants in La Rochelle.

Travel: La Rochelle airport is just a short drive away from the centre of town (taxis available) and the
TGV from Paris takes about two hours minutes.
.
For more information see www.discover-poitou-charentes.com

Words: Rachel LOOS – AMM France

Photographs: © Martine Coquilleau - Fotolia.com; Roger Moss - SARL Roger Moss

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