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KeravisTM PE

The Science of Hair Strength


Designed to deliver optimal anti-breakage benefits, Keravis PE is a multifaceted protein-based complex
which acts on all three of the fundamental parameters of hair strength: tensile properties, bending modulus
and cuticle abrasion.
The unique chemical composition of Keravis PE allows it to penetrate into the hair cortex, building strength
from within, whilst providing film-forming effects to reinforce, lubricate and protect the surface of the hair.
These properties combine to strengthen the hair, thus helping to reduce the degree of damage that hair
sustains from chemical treatments, environmental stresses or styling practices.
With more than 90% of panellists confirming that formulations containing Keravis PE gave stronger hair with
less breakage and 90% declaring their hair was healthier feeling and looking, Keravis PE is the evident
choice for hair strengthening formulations.

Product INCI name Appearance


Keravis PE Aqua (and) Hydrolysed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol Clear yellow liquid

Benefits Features
 Strengthens hair to resist combing damage  Hydrolysed vegetable protein and silane
 Consumer perceivable improvement in hair copolymer
strength  Vegetable derived
 Able to increase the strength of damaged hair  ~15% active
compared to a control conditioner  Easy-to-use liquid
 Demonstrates superior strengthening and anti-  Suitable for use in all hair care applications
breakage benefits when compared to D-
Panthenol
 Increases hair strength proportionally to usage
level
 Continues to strengthen hair even in extreme
humidity
 Proven efficacy from rinse-off systems

Claim Substantiation Studies


The performance benefits of Keravis PE have been evaluated using a series of laboratory and sensory tests.
Substantivity page 3
Flexabrasion assessment of hair strength from rinse-off systems page 5
Evaluation of Keravis PE vs D-Panthenol page 7
Effect of combining Keravis PE and D-Panthenol page 9
Evaluation of Keravis PE in protecting the hair from combing damage page 9
Salon studies page 10
Evaluation of Keravis PE in protecting the hair from relaxer systems damage page 15
Information on formulating, regulatory matters and health and safety is given on page 17.

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Definition of Hair Strength
Hair strength is commonly referred to as the tensile force required to snap the hair fibre, as measured by
break-point analysis. However, this definition is irrelevant to the consumer experience, because it takes less
force to pull a hair out of the scalp than it does to break it. A more accurate and consumer-relevant
description of hair strength is the resistance of the hair to break under normal grooming practices. Indeed,
when a comb is pulled through the hairs, they can wrap and loop around the comb teeth as well as cross
over taut hair fibres already wrapped around comb teeth creating a situation as shown in Figure 1,which
stresses the hair and results in hair breakage.

Figure 1: Grooming process creating a situation which stresses the hair fibres resulting in hair
breakage

The hair strength is influenced by:


 Cross-sectional diameter of the hair fibre
 Moisture content and flexibility
 Lubricity / resistance to frictional forces
 Structural damage

Three important factors1 lead to hair fracture during mechanical manipulation:


 Incremental bending & straightening leads to local fatigue fracture
 Tensile forces lead to hair extension and cuticle decementation
 Frictional interactions of hairs upon each other lead to localised abrasion and cuticle loss
Weakening of the hair due to these factors ultimately can lead to breakage in the form of “brush ends” as
shown in Figure 2 and Figure 3 respectively.

Figure 2: Brush end formation


Repetitive movement leads to localised weakening within the hair shaft and
ultimately brush end fractures

Figure 3: Split end formation


Cuticle and cortex damage leads to weakening at the end of the hair shaft,
resulting in splitting and ultimately fibre fracture

The unique chemical composition of Keravis PE enables it to act on all three of the hair breakage
mechanisms identified above. Cuticle penetration builds strength from within to increase resistance to tensile
forces and withstand bending stresses. Meanwhile, film-formation reinforces, lubricates and protects the
hair’s surface, preventing cuticle abrasion and loss.

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Structure and Composition
Keravis PE is a multifaceted protein silane copolymer complex. The copolymer groups are covalently
attached to the protein amino groups by reactive link groups present as part of the organofunctional silane or
siloxane. The siloxane chains are capable of forming silica cross-links when applied to the hair, which may be
inter- or intra-molecular protein links. The structure may be then further extended by the condensation of
silanol groups to yield a polymeric network.
Within Keravis PE there is a low level of copolymerisation of the protein, which in the final product delivers a
mix of hydrolysed vegetable protein and hydrolysed vegetable protein copolymerised with the silane groups.
This incorporation of natural protein structures into the silicon polymer molecule allows the unique,
multifunctional benefits of Keravis PE and is a way of creating more sophisticated ingredients to meet the
powerful market demand.

Figure 4: Structure of Keravis PE

Substantivity
The substantivity of Keravis PE to hair was measured using radiolabelling techniques. By radioactive tagging
of the protein it is possible to measure the radioactivity of the hair after treatment and relate this to protein
uptake. In these studies 125I was used for labelling purposes. Keravis PE contains tyrosine residues and
these are radiolabelled by iodination with 125I as illustrated in Figure 5.
CH CH
CH2 CH2

+ 125I + H + 125I
2

I125
OH OH

Tyrosine
residue
Figure 5: Radiolabelling of proteins using 125I

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120

100

Substantivity (mg/100g hair)


80

60 Shampoo Conditioner

40

20

0
0 1 2 3 4 5 6
Number of treatments

Figure 6: Substantivity of Keravis PE

The data shows that Keravis PE is substantive to normal European brown hair when applied from a basic
shampoo or a conditioner base. As expected, Figure 6 shows that the substantivity is greater when applied
from a conditioner base than a shampoo base.

Confocal Laser Scanning Microscopy


Fluorescence studies have been used to visualise the substantivity and penetration of Keravis PE.
Fluorescent tagging of Keravis PE has allowed the location of the hydrolysed protein to be demonstrated,
upon penetration into the hair fibre. The fluorescent probe, fluorescein isothiocyanate (FITC), was attached to
Keravis PE followed by chromatographic purification to ensure the absence of free FITC. Bleached hair
fibres were soaked in an aqueous solution of the FITC-Keravis PE for 5 minutes, before being rinsed for 15
seconds. The fibres were then patted dry, and allowed to dry overnight at ambient temperature. The treated
hair was placed on a microscope slide for analysis using a Biorad MRC600 laser-scanning confocal
attachment on a Nikon Optiphot light microscope. The hair was then scanned with a beam from an argon-ion
laser (λmax = 488 nm) and the system was tuned to provide images exclusively from the fluorescent emissions
of the fluorescein-labelled peptides (at λ = 518 nm).
Figure 7 shows the location of the FITC-Keravis PE. The tagged protein is seen in green with the intensity of
the colour proportional to the quantity of protein present in that location. This shows that Keravis PE is
deposited on the outer cuticle layer, producing a protective film around the hair fibre, and it is also able to
penetrate into the cortex of the fibre, resulting in its unique strengthening properties.

Figure 7: Fluorescent image of hair fibres treated with FITC-Keravis PE for 5 minutes to show
substantivity and penetration of Keravis PE

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Measuring Hair Strength – The Flexabrasion Technique
As mentioned above, there are three forces that affect the fracture of hair fibres, namely tensile extension,
flexure and abrasion. Flexure of hair fibres is thought to be of most importance in the mechanism of fibre
fracture. Flexure is the bending forces generated when fibres interact with other fibres and grooming tools.
Tensile forces also play a role and are present in normal grooming practices. Frictional interactions are
involved through cuticular abrasion which can lead to the cortex becoming exposed, thus reducing the fibres
ability to withstand any further chemical or physical damage and also through increasing the longitudinal and
bending forces the fibre experiences.
In the past, hair-strengthening claims have been supported only by tensile measurements and have ignored
the important frictional and flexure forces that also impact on hair fibre strength. For a more consumer
relevant measurement, it is important to evaluate the effect of all three of the components of hair fibre
breakage; flexure, tensile and frictional forces.
The Flexabrasion technique2 provides such a measurement. As shown in Figure 8, hair fibres are cyclically
drawn, under load, across a tungsten wire, simulating the movement and mechanical forces experienced by
hair during every day grooming and styling practices. When a brush is pulled through the hair, the hair
strands are entwined and move against one another causing longitudinal shear within the fibre shaft,
abrasion and extension of the hair fibre, which will eventually cause longitudinal splitting and premature
fracture.
The Flexabrasion instrument allows the testing of 20 hair segments at once. It is positioned in a humidity-
controlled cabinet, which allows monitoring of the relative humidity under which the hair is being tested. The
number of cycles required for the hair to break allows assessment of cosmetic actives in terms of hair
strength benefits. Application of this methodology for the assessment of human hair fibres was first reported
in 1995 by Leroy et al2.

Reciprocating motion
8mm Amplitude Variable Hz
Abrasion

Bending

200ųm wire

Forc
Tensile
e
Force

Figure 8: Schematic representation of the Figure 9: Flexabrasion Apparatus: Close-up of the


flexabrasion technique tungsten wire, over which the hair fibre is drawn

A large amount of data has been generated substantiating the hair strengthening, or anti-breakage, performance of
Keravis PE from a wide range of formulations.

Effect of Keravis PE in a Shampoo and a Conditioner System on Damaged (Bleached) Hair


Hair segments that had been damaged by bleaching were treated with either a shampoo or conditioner containing
Keravis PE, or with the same shampoo / conditioner without Keravis PE. Control hair segments were bleached and
then treated with control formulations. The flexabrasion lifetimes of the different samples were measured and
compared to virgin hair.
The results are expressed as a percentage change in the mean fatigue lifetime of hair fibres in comparison to virgin
hair fibres. The formula used is detailed below:

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Percentage Difference = ((B-A)/A) x 100
where: A = Mean fatigue lifetime of control hair segment
B = Mean fatigue lifetime of test hair segment

Keravis PE was incorporated into a shampoo system at 1% active to evaluate its efficacy in a surfactant system on
bleached hair. Each test shampoo was applied at a 10% dilution and 60% Relative Humidity (RH), to mimic a
consumer’s typical usage.
As presented in Figure 10, this test showed that, in this case, the Keravis PE shampoo formulation delivered up to
three times the strengthening benefits compared to the shampoo alone.
40
% Change in Hair Strength vs. virgin hair

35

30

25

20

15

10

0
Bleached hair & control shampoo Bleached hair & shampoo with 1% active
Keravis PE

Figure 10: Effect of Keravis PE, from a shampoo, on bleached hair; improving the strength of the hair by 36%
compared to untreated hair

Figure 11 shows that the conditioner containing Keravis PE (0.25% active) delivered a substantial improvement in
strengthening benefit compared to the same conditioner without Keravis PE. It is interesting to note that bleached hair
treated with the Keravis PE conditioner is 175% stronger than the virgin hair fibres.
The conditioner alone increased hair strength by 60% because of its ability to lubricate the hair fibre surface and
reduce the frictional component of flexabrasion.
The test was conducted at 60% RH and the conditioners were undiluted.

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200

% Change in Hair Strength vs. virgin hair


180

160

140

120

100

80

60

40

20

0
Bleached hair & control conditioner Bleached hair & conditioner with 0.25%
active Keravis PE

Figure 11: Effect of Keravis PE, from a rinse-off conditioner, on bleached hair; improving the strength of the
hair by 175% compared to untreated hair

Evaluation of Keravis PE versus D-Panthenol


D-Panthenol, or Pro Vitamin B5 as it is commonly known, is used extensively in the personal care industry for its
moisturisation benefits and claims of adding hair strength. The following studies evaluated D-Panthenol and Keravis
PE in an active-to-active comparison using the Flexabrasion test method3:
 The relative hair strengthening effect of Keravis PE vs. D-Panthenol when applied from a rinse-off system
 The effect of active concentration on the strengthening performance of Keravis PE and D-Panthenol
 The relative strengthening performance of Keravis PE and D-Panthenol, applied from a conditioner at various
active levels, at various relative humidities

Figure 12 shows the comparison between Keravis PE and D-Panthenol when applied from a conditioner at 0.25%
active. The conditioners were diluted to 20% and tested at 60% RH, representing realistic consumer use. Based on this
data, Keravis PE offers superior strengthening benefit on hair compared to D-Panthenol.

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140

% Change in Hair Strength vs. virgin hair


120

100

80

60

40

20

0
Bleached hair & conditioner with 0.25% Bleached hair & conditioner with 0.25%
active D-Panthenol active Keravis PE

Figure 12: Strengthening effect of Keravis PE vs. D-Panthenol, from a conditioner

Keravis PE was also compared to D-Panthenol from a shampoo system, where both were added at 1% active. Each
was tested at a 10% dilution on hair fibres to simulate consumer usage conditions. Results are shown in Figure 13.
40
% Change in Hair Strength vs. virgin hair

35

30

25

20

15

10

0
Bleached hair & shampoo with 1% active Bleached hair & shampoo with 1% active
D-Panthenol Keravis PE

Figure 13: Strengthening effect of Keravis PE vs. D-Panthenol, from a shampoo

Figure 13 shows that the addition of Keravis PE at 1% active prolongs the fatigue lifetime of the hair fibre by 36%,
whereas D-Panthenol at 1% active did not show a significant improvement.
The effectiveness of an ingredient is usually dependent on the level of activity. Therefore, Keravis PE and D-Panthenol
were compared by increasing the level of each ingredient from 0.25% to 0.50% active to understand if the dosage of
the active is related to its degree of functionality.
As observed in Figure 14, whilst increasing the concentration of D-Panthenol has no effect on its strengthening
performance, there is an improvement when the concentration of Keravis PE is increased.

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200

% Change in Hair Strengh vs. virgin hair


180

160

140

120

100 D-Panthenol

80 Keravis PE

60

40

20

0
0.25% active concentration 0.5% active concentration

Figure 14: Keravis PE vs D-Panthenol in conditioner at 0.25% and 0.50% active

Combining Keravis PE with D-Panthenol


Keravis PE can also be used to improve the performance of products that already contain D-Panthenol, to deliver
optimum benefits. Figure 15 shows flexabrasion data for a commercial conditioner containing D-Panthenol and for the
same conditioner with addition of Keravis PE. Once again, the strengthening effect of the conditioner is improved by
the addition of Keravis PE.
100
% Change in Hair Strength vs. virgin hair

90

80

70

60

50

40

30

20

10

0
Bleached hair & leading conditioner Bleached hair & leading conditioner
containing D-Panthenol containing Panthenol, plus 0.25% active
Keravis PE
Figure 15: The effect of adding Keravis PE to a conditioner that contains D-Panthenol on hair strength

Repetitive Combing Study


As already noted, grooming practices such as combing are a major cause of hair damage. Repetitive combing of the
hair damages the fibres, making them weaker and gradually more and more difficult to comb. Knotting intensifies as
the hair fibres are stretched and rubbed against one another and the comb teeth.

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The Dia-Stron Miniature Tensile Tester 175 (MTT, see Figure 16) calculates the force required to comb a tress of hair.
By measuring this before and after repetitive combing, the percentage change in force required to comb the hair can be
measured. The more damaged the tress becomes, the more force is required to comb it.

Figure 16: MTT equipment

The ability of Keravis PE and D-Panthenol to protect the hair against the damage caused by repetitive combing was
assessed as follows. Hair tresses were treated with either a basic conditioner, the same conditioner containing 0.25%
active D-Panthenol, or the same conditioner containing 0.25% active Keravis PE. The MTT was used to measure the
total work required to comb each tress. The tresses were then attached to a combing wheel and combed 5000 times,
under controlled conditions of temperature and humidity. The work required to comb each tress was then re-measured
on the MTT.
The results are expressed as the average percentage increase in the work required to comb the tress, calculated as:

Percentage Change = ((S-B)/B) x 100


where: S = The work required to comb the hair after 5000 combs
B = The baseline work required, before repetitive combing

A series of 10 repeats of the procedure were carried out and the average percentage change in total work required to
comb the hair for each product was calculated. The results are shown in Figure 17.
It is clear that, while D-Panthenol has no effect on the damage caused by repetitive combing, Keravis PE provides
significant protection against this damage. For the hair treated with Keravis PE, the increase in the work required to
comb the tress was 87%, compared to 140% for the basic conditioner. This difference was found to be statistically
significant where p=0.02.

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160
* Significant at 95% confidence

% Change in Hair Strength vs. virgin hair


140

120

100
*
80

60

40

20

0
Basic conditioner Basic conditioner + D- Basic conditioner + Keravis
Panthenol (0.25% active) PE (0.25% active)

Figure 17: Effect of Keravis PE and D-Panthenol on the work required to comb tresses that have been
damaged by repetitive combing

Salon Study on European Hair


A salon study was conducted on 80 panellists with dry or damaged European hair using a shampoo and conditioner
regime every other day. Basic formulations containing 2% and 3% Keravis PE as supplied, respectively (formulations
described in Figure 18), were used to treat the heads of 40 panellists, whilst another 40 panellists were treated with the
same regime not containing Keravis PE. A Brush Friction Count Method (BFCM) was used to assess the amount of
hair breakage between the baseline (Day 0) and after 3 weeks of treatment (Day 21).

Figure 18: Formulations used in the salon study on European hair

Panellists’ hair was brushed with moderate force using a Kent Airhedz Mega Taming Brush at a rate of 1 stroke/second
for 10 seconds, ensuring the entire surface of the head had been brushed. Hairs captured by the brush were then
removed and broken/damaged hairs separated from “intact” hairs that had been removed from the scalp. The number
of broken/damaged hairs was then counted and results are presented in Figure 19.

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Without Keravis PE With Keravis PE
0

% Change in Hair breakagevs. baseline -10

-20

-30

-40

-50

-60

Figure 19: Effect of adding Keravis PE in Benchmark formulations regarding hair breakage after 21 days of use
on European hair

After 21 days the use of both the control formulations and the formulations containing Keravis PE decreased the
amount of broken hair collected after repetitive combing. As the difference between both treatments was not
statistically significant, the study was extended to see the strengthening effect offered by the use of formulations
containing Keravis PE for a longer time period. The BFCM was again used to assess the hair after 42 days and results
are presented in Figure 20.
Day 21 Day 42
0
% Change in Hair breakage vs. baseline

-10

-20

-30

-40

-50

-60

-70

-80

-90
*** Significant at 99.9% confidence ***
-100
Without Keravis PE With Keravis PE

Figure 20: Keravis PE vs Benchmark formulations: effect of extended use on hair breakage properties

Using formulations containing Keravis PE for a longer time period leads to a cumulative response, dramatically
improving the anti-breakage effect on hair compared to the control formulations (p<0.001). The amount of broken hair is
reduced from 53% to 87% whilst the control treatment response remains constant.

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To ensure that tis cumulative effect does not detrimentally impact on the feel or appearance of the hair, panellists were
asked to comment on different aspects of their hair at the end of the treatment. Figure 21 represents the percentage of
panellists who agree or strongly agree that their hair has changed in each of the measured attributes. Up to 90% of the
panellists treated with Keravis PE found their hair generally to be in better condition. Results in Figure 21 prove, once
again, that Keravis PE gives a clear visually-perceivable improvement in the appearance of the hair, especially
regarding hair strength and anti-breakage benefits.

Smoother
100
Less tangled 80 Softer
60
40
Broke less when 20 Glossier
brushed
0

Look and feel healthy Easier to comb

With Keravis PE Stronger Good condition

Without Keravis PE

Figure 21: Consumer self-perception; showing hair to be in better condition when using formulations
containing Keravis PE after 42 days of treatment on European hair

Salon Study on Latin American Hair


A similar study was conducted on 84 panellists with dry or damaged Latin American hair (curl type III-IV) using a
shampoo and conditioner regime every other day, as in the study on European hair. Basic formulations containing 1%
and 3% Keravis PE as supplied, respectively (formulations described in Figure 22), were used to treat the heads of 39
panellists, whilst another 45 panellists were treated with the same regime not containing Keravis PE. A BFCM was
used to assess the amount of hair breakage between the baseline (Day 0) and after 3 weeks of treatment (Day 21).
Results are shown in Figure 23.

Figure 22: Formulations used in the salon study on Latin American hair

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Without Keravis PE With Keravis PE
0.00

% Change in Hair breakagevs. baseline


-10.00

-20.00

-30.00

-40.00

-50.00

-60.00 ***
*** Significant at 99.9% confidence
-70.00

Figure 23: Effect of adding Keravis PE in Benchmark formulations regarding hair breakage after 21 days of use
on Latin American hair

On Latin American hair, the formulations containing Keravis PE demonstrated an effective result in breakage reduction
(p<0.001), showing the ability of Keravis PE to reduce broken hair when used in shampoos and conditioners. The
reduction in breakage offered by the control formulations was lower, potentially due to the increased force required to
comb this curlier hair type.

Figure 24 represents the percentage of panellists who agree or strongly agree that their hair has changed in each of
the measured attributes. The consumer perception is highly in favour of the Keravis PE formulations demonstrating the
benefits of Keravis PE when used in these basic formulations.

Smoother
100
Less tangled 80 Softer

60
40
Broke less 20 Glossier
when brushed
0

Look and feel


Easier to comb
healthy

With Keravis PE
Stronger Good condition
Without Keravis PE

Figure 24: Consumer self-perception; showing hair to be in better condition when using formulations
containing Keravis PE after 21 days of treatment on Latin American hair (curl type III-IV)

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Use of Keravis PE in Hair Relaxer Systems
Hair relaxers represent one of the most important segments of the African hair care market. There are a number of
problems traditionally associated with relaxer systems, for example scalp irritation, dryness and itching. However the
number one complaint among consumers after using a relaxer is hair breakage.
To combat these problems, Croda has developed The New Generation Relaxer System, combining Keravis PE with
Keralenis™. Keralenis is a complete emulsifier system for relaxers, proven to minimise scalp irritation, deliver actives
rapidly and protect the hair cuticle. The New Generation Relaxer System comprises a complete set of formulations
covering all stages of a hair relaxer treatment regime:
 Pre-treatment
 Relaxer and neutralising shampoo
 Conditioner
 Leave-in conditioner
The levels of Keravis PE in the various formulations are shown below. For more details of these formulations see
reference 4.

Formulation Reference number. % w/w Keravis PE (as


supplied)
Pre-treatment BW-50 0.50
Anti-breakage Relaxer BW-41-1 1.00
Activator 1.00
Neutralising Shampoo SH-135 0.50
Conditioner HP-300 1.00
Leave-in Conditioner HP-301 0.50

To assess the hair strengthening benefits of these formulations, flexabrasion was used to measure the fatigue lifetime
of African-American hair after each stage of the relaxer treatment. A leading brand relaxer system, which is claimed to
reduce breakage, was used as a benchmark. Separate measurements were carried out for each step of the treatment
(without applying any of the other steps). A further set of measurements assessed the change in hair strength after
applying the complete treatment regime.
Figure 25 shows the results for the different stages of the relaxer treatment. Figure 26 shows the results for the entire
system.

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700
Leading Relaxer System New Generation Relaxer System

% Change in Hair Strengh vs. virgin hair


600

500

400

300

200

100

0
Pre-treatment Relaxer + Conditioner Leave-in conditioner
-100 Neutralising
Shampoo

Figure 25: Comparison of the change in hair strength for different stages of relaxer systems

350
% Change in Hair Strengh vs. virgin hair

300

250

200

150

100

50

0
Leading Relaxer System New Generation Relaxer System
Figure 26: Comparison of the change in hair strength for the complete relaxer systems

For the pre-treatment, the New Generation system shows an improvement in hair strength, but the benchmark product
performs better. However for each other stage, the New Generation Relaxer System outperforms the benchmark in
terms of hair strengthening. This is reflected in the data for the complete system; the New Generation Relaxer System
gives significantly better strengthening performance than the benchmark system.

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Formulation, Regulatory Matters and Health and Safety
Keravis PE is recommended for all hair care products including shampoos, conditioners, hair repair and treatment
products and styling aids.
Keravis PE is a water-soluble, clear yellow liquid. It can be incorporated into cold mix systems, and can also be used
at elevated temperatures up to about 60°C. Typical use levels are 1 - 5 % as supplied.
Keravis PE is considered to be an acceptable cosmetic raw material. A separate material safety data sheet is available
on request.

References:
1. JA Swift and AC Brown, "Hair breakage: the scanning electron microscope as a diagnostic tool", J Soc Cosmet Chem 26 289
(1975).
2. JA. Swift, S. Chahal, D. Coulson, and N. Challoner; “Flexabrasion – A Method for Evaluating Hair Strength”, Cosmetics and
Toiletries, 116, 12, 53 - 60, December 2001.
3. D. Jones, S. Chahal, E. Smart; “Flexabrasion hair strength – a comparison of two commercial”, actives Cosmetic & Toiletries
Worldwide, 2005.
4. Croda Inc., “Keralenis: Optimized delivery system designed for relaxers”, datasheet DS-192R-4, 23 Jan 2009; p11-16.

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Detoxify & Strengthening Shampoo CH0019
Toxins brought by pollution and other environmental stresses can damage hair. To maintain or improve its health it is
important to detoxify, strengthen and protect hair. This shampoo effectively cleans the hair without being harsh, thanks
to CrodasinicTM LS30 which confers mildness and counter-irritancy. It also contains Keravis PE, a multi-faceted
protein complex that strengthens each hair strand, preventing breakage and hair fall. CrodafosTM HCE imparts
conditioning and helps deliver active ingredients into the hair more effectively, while FruitbioTM smoothes the cuticle,
potentially reducing the adhesion of pollution particles to the hair.

Ingredient/INCI Name Functionality % w/w


Part A
Water Deionised (Aqua) - To 100
Sodium Laureth Sulfate3 Surfactant 15.00
CrodatericTM CAB30 (Aqua (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine)1 Surfactant 10.00
Crodasinic LS30 (Aqua (and) Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate)1 Surfactant 8.00
Part B
Water Deionised (Aqua) - 20.00
Codafos HCE (Oleth-5 Phosphate (and) Dioleyl Phosphate)1 Conditioner 2.00
Part C
CithrolTM EGDS (Glycol Distearate)1 Pearlescent 2.00
CrothixTM (PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate) 1 Thickener 0.25
Part D
Keravis PE (Aqua (and) Hydrolysed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Hair strengthening 1.00
Silanetriol)1
Fruitbio (Aqua (and) Lactic Acid (and) Camelia Sinensis Leaf Cuticle smoother 0.50
Extract (and) Glycerin (and) Citric Acid (and) Malic Acid)2
Euxyl PE 9010 (Phenoxyethanol (and) Preservative 1.00
Ethylhexylglycerin)4
Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: Sederma 3: 70% Active SLES Solution 4: Schülke

Method
Dissolve SLES in water with stirring, and add remaining ingredients in Part A one at a time and begin to heat the
solution to 80ºC. Heat Part B to 80ºC, then add Part B to Part A and stir until complete dissolution. Add Part C
ingredients to the Part A and Part B mixture one at a time with continued stirring, hold the temperature at 80ºC for 5-
10 minutes. Cool batch slowly while continuing to stir. Add Part D and continue to stir until homogenous

Appearance: Pearlescent liquid


pH: 4.61 ± 0.5 Viscosity: 15100 cP ± 10% spindle 5, 5 rpm, DV-I+, rest for 5 min,
measure after a further 1 min, ambient temperature
Stability: 3 months at 4ºC, 25 ºC, 40 ºC, 45 ºC, 50 ºC

This formulation was developed in Europe. Contact your local sales representative with enquiries as ingredient availability can vary
by region.

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Youth Renewing Cleansing Conditioner HP-410
Has your hair changed over the years? The ageing process can result in unwanted changes to the hair, such as
increased dryness, brittleness, coarseness in texture, dullness and thinning, more fragile hair. Restore your hair with
this mild, youth renewing cleansing conditioner. CrodazosoftTM DBQ has a proven softening effect and defends
against cuticle abrasion. CutissentialTM Behenyl 18 MEA replenishes the primary lipid of the hair and restores the
integrity of the hair surface to help it regain its healthy appearance. Keravis PE penetrates the hair cuticle, building
strength from within for optimal anti-breakage benefits. CrodamolTM SFX, a non-silicone emollient, adds shine.
KeraDynTM HH restores healthy hair dynamics by enhancing fibre alignment and reducing friction between hair
strands. PhytessenceTM French Oak is a scalp anti-ageing antioxidant that fights follicle-damaging lipid peroxides
linked to hair loss.

Ingredient/INCI Name Functionality % w/w


Part A
Water Deionised (Aqua) - 81.70
PricerineTM 9091 (Glycerin)1 Humectant 2.00
Part B
CrodacolTM C95 (Cetyl Alcohol)1 Viscosity builder 4.00
Crodacol S95 (Stearyl Alcohol)1 Viscosity builder 2.00
Cutissential Behenyl 18MEA (Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Conditioning agent 1.00
C10-40 Isoalkylamidopropylethyldimonium Ethosulfate (and) Cetyl
alcohol)1
Crodazosoft DBQ (Quaternium-91 (and) Cetrimonium Methosulfate Conditioning agent 1.00
(and) Cetearyl Alcohol)1
CrovolTM A70 (PEG-60 Almond Glycerides)1 Solubiliser 1.00
Crodamol SFX (PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Ethylhexanoate)1 Shine emollient 1.00
KeraDyn HH (Bis-Ethyl(isostearylimidazoline) Isostearamide)1 Conditioning agent 0.50
CropureTM Olive Oil (Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil)1 Emollient 0.50
Triticum Vulgare (Wheatgerm Oil) Conditioning agent 0.50
Part C
Phytessence French Oak (Water, Glycerin, Quercus Petraea Fruit Scalp anti-ageing active 3.00
Extract)2
Keravis PE (Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol Hair strengthening 1.30
(and) Water (aqua))1
Euxyl PE9010 (Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin)3 Preservative 0.50
Citric Acid (10%) Solution pH modifier pH 5.0-5.5
Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: Crodarom 3: Schülke

Method
Add Part A to a beaker and heat to 75°C-80°C. Pre-mix Part B ingredients and heat to 75°C-80°C. Slowly add Part
B to Part A with medium speed mixing. Allow to mix until uniform. Cool batch to 40°C and add Part C. Cool to room
temperature.

Appearance: Coffee coloured conditioner


pH: 5.43 Viscosity: 35,000 cPs ± 10%, (RVT Spindle #TC @10rpm @ 25°C
@24 hrs.)
Stability: 5 F/T cycles, 3 months at RT, 40°C and 45°C, and 1 month at 50°C

This formulation was developed in North America. Contact your local sales representative with enquiries as ingredient availability
can vary by region.

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DD Hair Rescue Shield C10176
This Daily Defence rescue shield offers ultimate protection and repair for younger looking hair. The ’10 in 1’ concept
could be met using the following actives; KerestoreTM 2.0, CrodasoneTM P, Keravis PE, Keratec TM IFP PE, and
Incroquat TM Behenyl TMS-50 to give the following benefits; anti-breakage, blow-dry defence, targeted repair, long
lasting conditioning, anti-ageing, environmental protection, moisturisation, gloss, smoothing and detangling. This light
cream should be applied to wet hair after shampooing and then rinsed off.

Ingredient/INCI Name Functionality % w/w


Part A
Water Deionised (Aqua) - To 100
Crodacol S95 (Stearyl Alcohol)1 Fatty alcohol 4.80
Incroquat Behenyl TMS-50 (Behentrimonium Methosulfate Cationic surfactant 2.40
(and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Butylene Glycol)1
Part B
Kerestore 2.0 (Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolysed Hair repair active 2.00
Keratin)1
Crodasone P (Hydrolysed Pea Protein PG-Propyl Thermal protection active 2.00
Silanetriol)1
Keravis PE (Aqua (and) Hydrolysed Vegetable Protein PG- Hair strengthening 2.00
Propyl Silanetriol)1
Keratec IFP PE (Aqua (and) Keratin (and) Hydrolysed Environmental protection 2.00
Keratin)1 active
Fragrance AR303339 (Parfum)2 Fragrance 0.50
Colour (0.03% C.I 16035 (and) 0.067% C.I 19140)4 Colour 0.42
Euxyl K100 (Benzyl Alcohol (and) Preservative 0.15
Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone)3
Citric acid (50% w/w solution) pH adjuster To pH 5.0-5.5
Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: CPL Aromas 3: Schülke 4: Kingfisher

Method
Combine Part A ingredients and mix on a hot plate at 65-70 ºC. Once homogenous turn off heat and continue
stirring. Once the formulation has cooled to room temperature, add Part B ingredients individually with stirring.
Adjust pH to 5.0-5.5 with citric acid.

Appearance: Thick, peach emulsion


pH: 5.14 ± 0.5 Viscosity: 13,200 cPs ± 10% (Brookfield DV-I+, Spindle 3, 10 rpm,
1 minute, ambient)
Stability: 3 months at 5 ºC, 25 ºC, 40 ºC and 45 ºC. 1 month at -5/40 ºC.

This formulation was developed in Europe. Contact your local sales representative with enquiries as ingredient availability can vary
by region.

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Strong and Flowing Hair Conditioner SG0001

This hair conditioner contains CrodafosTM CES as an emulsifying and conditioning agent. KeraDyn HH is proven to
reduce inter-fibre friction of hair fibres and provide excellent conditioning benefits, resulting in beautiful healthy looking
hair that flows. Keravis PE, our hair strengthening active, penetrates the hair cuticule, building strength from within and
also reinforces, lubricates and protects the outside of the hair fibre.

Ingredient/INCI Name Functionality % w/w


Part A
Water Deionised (Aqua) - To 100
Propylene Glycol Humectant 1.00
Part B
Crodafos CES (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Dicetyl Phosphate (and) Ceteth-10 Emulsifier 1.50
Phosphate)1
CrodacolTM CS90 (Cetearyl Alcohol)1 Fatty alcohol 4.00
KeraDyn HH (Bis-Ethyl(isostearylimidazoline) Isostearamide)1 Conditioning agent 2.00
CrodamolTM BOSS(Phenoxy PEG-4 Laurate/Palmitate) 1 Silicone replacement and shine 2.00
IncromateTM SDL(Aqua (and) Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate) 1 Viscosity builder & opacifier 1.00
DuraQuenchTM IQ SA (Cetyl Stearate (and) Isostearyl Isostearate (and) Scalp moisturiser 1.00
Cetyl Alcohol (and) Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (and) Stearic Acid)1
ProcetylTM AWS (PPG-5-Ceteth-20)1 Gloss enhancer 1.00
Part C
Keravis PE (Aqua (and) Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Hair strengthening 1.00
Silanetriol)1
Euxyl K100 (Benzyl Alcohol (and) Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Preservative 0.15
Methylisothiazolinone)2
DSM00914 (Parfum)3 Fragrance 0.10
88% Lactic acid pH adjuster 0.40
Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: Schülke 3: International Flavours & Fragrance

Method
Combine ingredients of Part A with mixing and heat to 75-80˚C. In a separate vessel, heat ingredients of Part B to
75-80˚C.Add Part B to Part A with stirring and keep the heat for about 10 minutes. Homogenise for 1 minute per
100g. Cool to 60˚C, decrease mixing speed and change to side sweep blade. Cool to 40˚C, slowly add Part C with
continued mixing until completely smooth and homogeneous.

Appearance: off white lotion


pH: 5.5 ±0.5 Viscosity: 1000cP ± 10% Brookfield, DV-II+, Spdl 6, Rpm 20, 25ºC
(viscosity will keep increasing to 5000cP ± 10% after 2 weeks)
Stability: 1 month at 50oC, 3 months at 4oC, 25oC, 40oC, 45oC and 5 freeze-thaw cycles.

Euxyl is a registered trademark of Schülke


This formulation was developed in Singapore. Contact your local sales representative with enquiries as ingredient availability can
vary by region.
Non-warranty
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made.
Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No
representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to information or products including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for a
particular purpose, non-infringement of any third party patent or other intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. Any
trademarks identified herein, unless otherwise noted, are trademarks of the Croda group of companies.
©2017 Croda International Plc

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