Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
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step 7: Finishing Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
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Shopping list:
Tools required:
Coping saw
Straight and curved files
Power drill
Various drill bits, including a ½” spade woodborer
“Liquid Nails” clear silicone adhesive
Cyanoacrylate superglue
Two part epoxy resin
Sandpaper
I found an image of the batarang on the internet, and printed it out as a template at the size I wanted. Because I was going to have a hinged batarang, I only used one
wing as the template for both halves, which helps with symmetry. I then cut out the three pieces of the ‘rang with a coping saw. If you are going to do the cutting with a
bandsaw, make sure you have good dust extraction – unlike sawdust, plexiglass dust can get hot enough to catch fire.
I call the three pieces ‘the fixed wing,’ the ‘pivoting wing,’ and ‘the back piece.’ The fixed wing and the back piece will join together to make the 'back assembly,' the
half of the batarang you hold in your hand. This is a right-handed batarang, but you can easily reverse the pieces for a left-handed one. The fixed wing is just the pivoting
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wing with the circular axis removed, and the back piece is just the center of the batarang with a bit of overlap where the magnets will be placed.
Image Notes
1. The pivoting wing
2. The fixed wing
3. The back piece
4. The cardboard template all three pieces are based on.
First off, try and align the pivoting wing with the backpiece, and correct the pivoting wing where it needs it, using a file. Once the places where they overlap matched up,
mark the pivoting wing with a dot that overlaps the back piece dot. Hold the pivoting wing in place with a small clamp or clothespin and shape the fixed wing until all three
pieces fit together neatly.
Image Notes
1. All three pieces neatly trued (but not glued) together
Image Notes
1. Truing up the pivoting wing and the back piece
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step 4: Beveling the Wing Edges
Now it is time to bevel the chisel edge of the wing blades. Mark a line that runs parallel to the edge of the wing, then, using a flat file, form the blade. Because you are
using two sheets of plexiglass glued together, it’s easy to mark your progress by the center join (but because you are not making an actual working blade, you don’t
need to file all the way down to the center of the wing thickness). Spend some time on this: a good consistent bevel is important to the final look of the batarang, although
paint will help if you can’t manage it.
When this is done you can glue the back piece to the fixed wing to form the back assembly, the half of the batarang you hold in your hand (assuming you are right
handed). When the glue dries, do a final filing and sanding of the places they overlap to make them completely true.
Image Notes
1. Unfinished bevel
2. Finished bevel
I then countersunk the machine screw hole in the pivoting wing, and, using the large 3/8” bit, recessed the other side of the hole to accept a small portion of the furniture
connector. This was because the furniture connector was a little too long and I didn’t want the wing to be loose when folded up. I could also have ground down the
connector a bit but this seemed easier, and it worked fine.
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step 6: Placing the Magnets
Now to place the magnets that will hold the batarang in place when it is opened. Tape the batarang together in its final position, and drill a pilot hold through the part
where the backing piece and the pivoting wing overlap. Exact placement of this hole is not critical, just make sure it's not too close to any of the edges. Then widen this
hole with the ½” woodborer bit. I used a ½” because my magnets were just a tiny bit smaller than that, but if you use different magnets from me, adapt the hole to fit.
Using tape to separate the holes in the wings (so you don’t glue the wings together), glue the magnets in place. I used two per wing. Make sure you align the
North/South correctly so that the wing will not repel itself! The magnets won’t take a lot of stress, so I used two part epoxy resin for this job, which also filled the gap
around the magnets.
Image Notes
1. Magnets in the pivoting wing (back assembly magnets are underneath, kept separate by the tape while gluing)
2. Back assembly
step 7: Finishing Up
You can now assemble the batarang. I glued a little plastic widget over the machine screw head to cover it. You can still take the batarang apart by unscrewing the
furniture connector from the rear. This is why you want to machine screw to be fairly tightly in place.
When this is done, you are almost finished! All it needs is any final shaping and filing, a bit of sanding of the edges, and you are ready to paint. I used a satin black spray
paint specifically for plastic, and bronze model paint for the wing bevels.
Image Notes
1. Finished and ready to paint
Image Notes
1. Reverse of the batarang, showing the back piece and the furniture connector
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Comments
25 comments Add Comment
http://www.instructables.com/id/Batarang-from-Arkham-Asylum-Game/
TecDroiD says: Aug 22, 2010. 12:30 PM REPLY
does it really work like a boomerang? i'd like to see some video :)
http://www.instructables.com/id/Batarang-from-Arkham-Asylum-Game/
propninja says: Aug 15, 2010. 10:49 PM REPLY
if you're going to make a metal Batarang I recommend aluminum. you can work it with the same tools you used for the plastic version and it will be far more
durable
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