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The Med
Amsterdam, a new ship making waves for its sleek New York
City–style interiors and $3 million art collection.
A cruise made perfect sense, we ultimately agreed, especially
when done our way. Read: independent exploration, plenty of
free time to chill, and adventures off the typical tourist radar.
Having been there, done that, here are our suggestions on
Your Way
how to ditch the crowds, avoid the clichés, and experience
the Med (and the world in general) more like a local.
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Prefer independent travel but love the perks and unpack-only-once convenience of a cruise? Anita Carmin shares 12 ways to have it both ways on your next voyage.
Choose cruises with overnight calls and late departures, which allow
time to absorb the local culture (as well as key sights) and take in the vibrant
nightlife. You’ll have an entirely different impression of Venice’s Piazza San
Marco come nightfall when strains of string quartets fill the air, lovers stroll
the square, and the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie. In Istanbul, fall
into step with the hip after-work crowd for a stroll down trendy İstiklâl
Caddesi (Independence Avenue), the mile-long pedestrian boulevard lined with
boutiques, art galleries, cafés, and nightclubs. Join the backgammon-playing and
nargileh (water pipe)-smoking Istanbulites for a cup of Turkish tea at one of the
side-street outdoor teahouses.
In addition to overnights in Venice and Istanbul, our cruise offered an 11:00
p.m. departure from Greek party-town Mykonos and a full 12-hour call at
Kuşadasi, permitting time to visit ancient Ephesus, shop for Turkish carpets in
the Grand Bazaar, and people-watch over Mythos beers in a pier-side café.
More Med Your Way on page 30 P
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Bridge early (it opens at 5:00 a.m. on weekdays) for a look at the
fresh sardines, octopus, and enormous whole swordfish before
the market fills with amateur shutterbugs.
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traditional margherita pizza and ice-cold Italian beer purchased
from a nearby pizzeria.
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Take the train and other public transportation; you’ll
not only feel like a local, you’ll meet the locals. In some cases
(Kuşadasi to Ephesus, for instance), it makes sense to opt for a
shore-excursion bus. But in Greece’s seaside town of Katakolon,
it’s just as easy, considerably less expensive, and fun to take the
The spice of life in Istanbul and (below) train to ancient Olympia. In the morning, Jeanne and I enjoyed
traditional Turkish coffee. watching the townspeople setting off on their errands; in the
afternoon, we got a kick out of the exuberant teenagers (they’re
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the same the world over) heading home after school.
Get the inside scoop from the folks who live there.
Without exception, I find shopkeepers, restaurant patrons, and
fellow bus riders more than happy to offer suggestions on their
favorite places to eat and shop. A proprietor at Istanbul’s Spice
Bazaar directed us to Pandeli Restaurant (a fixture since 1901)
for “authentic” Turkish coffee and badem kurabiyesi (almond
cookies). A shopkeeper in Mykonos insisted we try Opa Taverna
for its fresh calamari. She even left her shop unattended, leading
us through the maze of narrow lanes, to introduce us to Sava,
the taverna’s amusing and chatty owner.
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30 Virtuoso Insights
While On Board. . .
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Consult your ship’s savvy staff. Opt for small specialty restaurants
They’ll point you to the non-touristy on your ship and you’ll enjoy an
spots they’ve discovered while experience akin to dining in a favorite
traveling the globe. The best place venue at home. Aboard the Nieuw
to get an authentic Turkish bath in Amsterdam, we ate in the hip Pan
Istanbul? We asked the “spa girls” in Asian restaurant, Tamarind, and in
Holland America’s Greenhouse Spa. the intimate Pinnacle Grill where, one
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(Investigating the top spa spots is one night, we splurged on a Master Chef
of their favorite activities in port.) dinner of seven courses, each paired
They directed us to the 427-year-old with wine.
Çemberlitaş Hamami, told us where
to catch the bus to get there, and Book a verandah stateroom or suite.
which stop to get off. Also helpful: That way, you can lounge outdoors
the ship’s travel guide. The Nieuw in your pajamas in the morning, and
Amsterdam’s Tom Vercillo was a wealth unwind in glorious peace and quiet after
of information on where to go, what to a long day ashore. Everyone will tell you:
see, and what to avoid. In addition to A verandah is well worth the money.
his lectures, Tom stationed himself in
Next to godliness: Istanbul’s 427-year-old Ship shape: a Deluxe Verandah
the Atrium for “plan your day ashore” Çemberlitaş Hamami (bathhouse). aboard the Nieuw Amsterdam. More Med Your Way on page 34 P
advice sessions throughout the cruise.
STAY
For cruises beginning and/or ending in Venice, extend
your vacation with a stay at Hotel Cipriani & Palazzo
Vendramin. Located amid lush vineyards and gardens
on the tip of Giudecca Island, this legendary hotel is
just a five-minute boat ride from Piazza San Marco but
light years away in the peace-and-quiet department.
In addition to an enormous outdoor saltwater pool
and garden-side spa, the Cipriani boasts the elegant
Venetian-glass-adorned Fortuny Restaurant and the
The Nieuw Amsterdam at sea and (above)
more casual Cip’s Club complete with floating terrace.
M ad r i d A d
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the ship’s posh – and private – Cabana Club. Virtuoso guests receive a room upgrade on arrival,
if available; full breakfast daily; one US$100 resort
credit during stay; and more. From EUR837 (approx.
US$1,142) per room, per night.
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while simultaneously catching up on the news and
getting ready for the day ahead.
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and (below) the hotel’s legendary facade.
34 Virtuoso Insights