FALL 2005

www.greekgourmetraveler.gr
www.kerasma.com

www.kerasma.com
Contents Letter from HEPO
We Call it Kerasma
4

ISSUE 1 FALL 2005

Editorial: Greek Treats 7
Feta - Greece’s Cheese for All Seasons 8
By Daphne Zepos

Kerasma Feta Recipes 14

Message in a Bottle - Great Greek Olive Oils 18
By Judy Ridgway

Kerasma Olive Oil Recipes 24

Travel: Athens on a Plate 28
By Diane Kochilas

Grapes of Distinction 34
By Yannis Voyatzis

Greek Wines from A to…X 36

By Maria Netsika

A Wine - Dark Sea of Change 40

By Maria Netsika

Chefs Talk: Revisit the Meze Concept 46

By Diane Kochilas

Kerasma Recipes: Meze 51

Kerasma Recipes: Sweet Treats by Stelios Parliaros 60

3 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Sharing LETTER FROM THE HELLENIC FOREIGN TRADE BOARD (HEPO)

a New
The Greek world of food and drink is still undiscovered in foreign markets, both
among consumers and trade professionals.
For various historic reasons, neither Greek cuisine nor spirits have enjoyed wide

Idea exposure outside the country. With the exception of recent restaurants in cities
such as New York and London, where some of the most interesting Greek eateries
are found, most of the food represented in restaurants abroad is characterized by
dated stereotypes and limited menus. Of course, the classics — dishes such as
spinach pie and roasted lamb — are part of our gastronomic heritage, and people
love them. They are our comfort foods. But Greek cuisine, especially in Greece, has
evolved beyond baklava and souvlaki; today, in Athens and elsewhere within
Greece’s borders, the cuisine is enjoying a Renaissance. It is vibrant and multifac-
eted. A new generation of chefs has helped refocus and revive it.
Global culinary and nutritional trends have influenced the contemporary Greek
table and Greek producers have reached a level of maturity that has enabled them
to create a vast spectrum of new food products, wines, and spirits that are often,
but not always, based on traditional preparations. Packaging has jumped several
decades virtually overnight so that the packaged foods and wines of Greece not
only taste great but look visually stunning, too.
Now it’s time to share these changes with the rest of the world. The Hellenic
Foreign Trade Board, in close collaboration with key representatives of the Greek
food and drinks industry, has conceived an idea to promote the country’s untapped
wealth of delicious foods and spirits. We have created a branded entity that encom-
passes the entire spectrum of Greek food and drinks, from recipes to food and pas-
try products, to wines, liqueurs, and more. We gave it a Greek name, one that
embraces a sentiment that runs very deep among Greeks, that of hospitality, of
sharing, offering, but also accepting gifts of food and drink: Kerasma (KE-rasma).
It’s the Greek word for treat.

4 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
 Greek cuisine reflects the particularities of the land it evolved from. The Greece of
today bridges the ancient and modern; our table springs from the collective expe-
Panagiotis Papastavrou rience of generations of cooks who have always abided by a simple premise: to
President of HEPO respect the exquisite quality of raw ingredients that flourish in the temperate
Greek-Mediterranean climate and to transform them into nourishing, delicious,
accessible dishes.
One of life’s greatest pleasures derives from the sharing of food — Kerasma — with
friends and loved ones. Greece, like all the Mediterranean, has always enjoyed a
slow-food culture, where meals are savored and never harried, where conversation
Panagiotis Drossos
peppers the table as much as oregano and extra-virgin olive oil and fresh lemon
CEO of HEPO
season the dishes at hand. Wine is never drunk without the accompaniment of
food in Greece; guests never enter a home or even a workplace without being
offered something to eat or drink, from a glass of cool water to a cup of steaming
Greek coffee to a plate of cheese and olives or a spoonful of fruit preserves.
Our branded treat — Kerasma — is meant to impart a message: that Greek cuisine
is the perfect cuisine to share. The symbol, an abstract “pie,” invokes one of the
basic Greek foods but also the whole notion of sharing. It also figures as an
umbrella, under which the whole of Greek gastronomy is cradled. Our goal is to see
the Kerasma symbol imprinted on Greek food products and beverages and even on
Greek restaurant menus, as an assurance of quality and authenticity. As part of
the Kerasma initiative, for example, we put together a team of the country’s top
chefs who work on a continual basis creating recipes that showcase contemporary
Greek cuisine. Their recipes will eventually be part of an archive available to
restaurateurs, chefs, and the press abroad, a resource — a treat — that we hope
will be used egregiously. We’re creating a photography archive, too, of Greek food
products, raw ingredients and recipes, again available by contacting us via our
website or through the Hellenic Foreign Trade Board offices around the world. The
new magazine that you are holding right now is part of the Kerasma initiative,
too. We hope you enjoy the treat, savor it, and, of course, share it.

5 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
 FALL 2005

GreekGourmetraveler Food Styling Information and subscription

Greek Food, Wine & Travel Magazine Elena Jeffreys, Paola Lakah, Vicky Smyrli, GreekGourmetraveler, a quarterly publication of
Editor-in-Chief Tina Webb the Hellenic Foreign Trade Board, promotes Greek
Diane Kochilas Color Separations cuisine, wine, travel, and culture. The magazine is
Art Director & Designer XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX distributed free of charge to food-, wine-, and trav-
k2design Printing el-industry professionals. If you wish to subscribe,
HEPO Liaison XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX contact the Commercial Sectors of the Greek
Yiannis Kritsotakis ISSN Consulate in your area (see list on page XXX).
Contributors XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX Reproduction of articles and photographs
Maria Netsika, Judy Ridgway, Yiannis Voyatzis, COVER The articles, recipes, and photographs published in
Daphne Zepos, Vassilis Stenos GreekGourmetraveler may be reprinted with per-
Contributing Chefs Publisher mission from the editorial office in Athens or from
Yiannis Baxevannis, Lefteris Lazarou, Stelios Hellenic Foreign Trade Board the nearest Greek Consulate. Use of any material
Parliaros, Christoforos Peskias, Kostas Vassalos from the GreekGourmetraveler must be accompa-
Photography Marinou Antipa 86-88 nied by a reference to its source: the magazine’s
Yiorgos Dracopoulos, Nikos Kokalias, Ilioupoli, Athens, Greece title and HEPO.
Constantine Pittas, Vassilis Stenos Tel: 00 30210 998-2100
Fax:
http://www.hepo.gr
www.kerasma.com

6 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Greek LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

treats
One of the things Greeks do really well is to make guests and strangers feel at
home. They do it, no doubt, through the offering of food and wine.
I’ve always believed that it is because of a buoyant national character that the
hospitality industry flourishes in Greece, that there are so many Greeks in the
restaurant business all over the world, and that Greek feasts always attract a
crowd, whether it’s at the local Greek Church in middle America, at a Greek family
table, or at a taverna on the rim of the Aegean where people clink glasses and
break bread to dip into small plates brimming with bright, robust foods. Greece is
a culture of convivial, generous cooks and diners. Sharing food and wine is part of
how we live.
Sharing is what this young magazine venture is all about, too. Never before has
there been a vehicle that could be both a showcase and reference for all the glori-
ous foods, wines and places that are Greek, a magazine for food and wine profes-
sionals and home cooks alike, filled with regional fare, modern Greek foods and
spirits, and revisited classics.
In this first issue we highlight the trinity of raw ingredients that are inarguably
associated with Greece and yet peppered with undiscovered nuances: superb Greek
extra-virgin olive oil; the country’s national cheese, feta; and its award-winning
wines. Our writers come from every corner of the globe.
We also want to introduce a concept of dining, by no means new, but certainly rejuvenat-
ed. There is a word for it in Greek (of course!): kerasma (KE-rasma), which means treat,
Greek treat, most often but not exclusively in the form of small plates — meze — that
span the whole spectrum of flavors and textures.We’ve invited a group of the country’s
top restaurant and pastry chefs to create contemporary dishes that best express the zeit-
geist of the contemporary Greek kitchen, and the first sampling of their innovations is
offered up in a special recipe section.
With this premiere issue of the GreekGourmetraveler, we want to treat you to a
modern Greek feast. We hope you will savor, enjoy, and share it.

Diane Kochilas

7 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
It is a black summer night in Athens. In the midst of this most
recent heat wave, I'm awake and hot. I wander down the dark
hallway, my feet slapping on the marble floor, toward the only
spot in the house that yields any relief: the refrigerator. It con-
tains bottles and bottles of cool water and two of the most sat-
isfying staples of a Greek summer: A watermelon cut in thick
but manageable slices and, deeper in, a whole chunk of Feta
bobbing up and down in a pool of brine. Perhaps it sounds
unusual to yearn for a piece of cheese in the dead of night and
especially one drowned in liquid, but Greeks eat Feta any time
and with almost everything.

Feta
Greece’s cheese for all seasons
By Daphne Zepos
Photography: Vassilis Stenos

9 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
As an ingredient Feta is crumbled
on salads, stuffed in savory pies,
and added to all types of baked
and stewed seafood, meat, veg-
etable, and grain dishes. But most
commonly, a generous slice is put
on a plate and left on the table for
the whole length of lunch and din-
ner. In Greece the cheese course
runs parallel to the meal. Feta,
the national Greek cheese, is
relentlessly nibbled at, be it with a
winter salad of boiled bitter
greens, or a main course of sum-
mer vegetables stewed in olive oil,
or a midnight snack hand-in-hand
with a slice of crisp, icy, sweet
watermelon.
As for the unusual storing of Feta,
there is a perfectly logical explana-
tion: Feta is a rindless wet cheese.
10 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
It is aged and cured in brine, and
will keep all its flavors if it remains
submerged.
Greeks (together with the cheese-
obsessed French) have the highest
per capita cheese consumption in
Europe, at ??? kilos (??? pounds)
annually. They are very particular
about their Feta. Some like it soft
and moist and rather mild, others
prefer it as hard and crumbly as
you can make it. Others want the
distinct flavor of the goat-hide.
Still others like their Feta to be
lemony-sour. Although the differ-
ences are subtle, cheese shops and
markets throughout Greece carry
at least a dozen types from differ-
ent parts of the country. The most
striking display is barrel-aged Feta,
glistening with whey in the barrel,
and cut in neat triangular wedges.
PRODUCTION
Feta is arguably the best-known
Greek food abroad. Just as we
were going to press, Greece won
the final round in a long dispute
over the use of the name Feta. The
European Union granted Greek
Feta a PDO (Protected Designation
of Origin) status and issued a
decree prohibiting European coun-
tries other than Greece to use the
name Feta. In Europe, similar
cheeses now must be called “brined
white cheese.” Within Greece, Feta
can be made only in specific
regions: Macedonia, Thrace,
Thessaly, Central Mainland Greece,
the Peloponnese, and Lesvos.
Feta is a simple cheese to make.
It has a mild, milky flavor that
remains fresh and accessible, one
that can easily be enjoyed on a
daily basis.
Greek Feta production abides by
very specific rules that control the
manufacture and the allowed per-
centage of goat’s milk in the
cheese. Feta is made predominant-
FETA ON THE TABLE
Feta is the quintessential
Greek table cheese, but
it is also excellent in all
sorts of other dishes.
As a main ingredient, it
finds its way into savory
pies, made with Feta
and eggs, or combina-
tions of cheeses, or mix-
fleshy Greek olives. Add a coarsely chopped the
few morsels of Feta and tomatoes, olives and
you’ve created the onions.
framework for a classic Local cooks drizzle some
Greek salad. A diversity extra virgin olive oil and
of ingredients makes it crumble some Feta on
all the more opulent. top of the whole salad;
Typical additions to this the rusk soaks up all the
Greek classic are capers, juices and softens. It’s a
dried Greek oregano, meal in itself.

ly with sheep’s milk, although a
small percentage of goat’s milk (up
to 30%) can be added. Cow’s milk is
never used in the production of
true Feta.
Feta is mostly made in small
dairies that buy the milk directly
from surrounding farmers, but
whether the dairy is large or small,
tures of greens and
cheese. It is also a staple
on the meze table, and
can be grilled or baked in
paper and even sautéed,
sometimes with a crust
of nuts or sesame seeds
or a simple egg and flour
wash.
In the summer, it is hard
sliced peppers, fresh Feta is almost always
summer herbs such as served with a whole
mint, chopped scallions, family of foods in Greece
thinly cut onions and a known as lathera (veg-
generous splash of extra etable stews gently sim-
virgin olive oil. mered in olive oil until
In Crete, the same basic soft). In some parts of
ingredients comprise a the country the cheese is
local bread salad, made mixed into the stewpot
with the island’s whole until it melts and melds

the production process is similar. to avoid thinking of ripe, wheat and barley rusks, with the vegetables,

The milk is either collected by or juicy tomatoes, crunchy which are moistened forming a creamy, lus-
cucumbers, and sharp, and used as a base for cious sauce.
delivered to the cheese dairies on a

Feta is an indisputably Greek cheese with

PDO status. By law, Greece is the only EU
country that can use the name Feta.

11 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
12 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
daily basis. Sheep’s milk, compared
to cow’s milk, is low in yield but
high in protein and fat solids. In
Greece, sheep and goats roam
freely in the countryside and eat
indigenous grasses and brush.
Greece is blessed with an unusually
large amount of edible plants (over
2,500), so it is natural that the milk
of each region reflects certain fla-
vors that are characteristic both of
the particular region and the sea-
son. The most flavorful milk, for
example, is produced in early
spring, when the countryside is
lush with fresh wild foliage; but the
richest milk is produced in the
summer, when animals feed mainly
off grains.
Feta is made in modern kettle vats
in which the milk is set. The soft
mass is cut into curds which are
slightly heated and salted, and
then scooped into metal molds.
These wet curds are left to drain
overnight. The next day each solid
mass of drained young cheese is
sprinkled with salt, stacked on top
of each other, and fitted in a wood-
en barrel or a large tin container.
The container is topped off with a
little whey, sealed and kept for a
minimum of two months to
mature. After that, it is ready to be
sold.
Daphne Zepos is an internationally known cheese expert and judge. She is currently head of the
affinage (cheese maturing) program at Artisanal Premium Cheese, in New York City, and a con-
sultant with American cheesemakers.
FETA ON THE
INTERNATIONAL TABLE
Abroad, especially in the
United States and
Britain, Feta has
evolved from being a
Greek specialty item to
a respected component
of Mediterranean cook-
ing. While Greek restau-
rants around the coun-
HOW TO SELECT FETA
In the last few years, the
invigorated trend for
artisan cheeses has really
helped the distribution of
good Feta. Long gone are
the days when you could
only find decent Feta in
Greek or Middle Eastern
markets. Now, gourmet
shops and upscale super-
markets all over the
world carry regional
Greek Feta cheeses.
The best guide to tasting
Feta is personal prefer-
ence. It is almost impos-
sible to delineate flavor
components based on
HOW TO BRINE FETA
One’s own refrigerator
brine preserves the
freshness of the cheese
and regulates the
creaminess, saltiness,
and sourness according
try serve delectable
variations of the classic
Greek salad, upscale
Mediterranean restau-
rants combine water-
melon, arugula, extra-
virgin olive oil, and good
Greek Feta to create a
highly addictive sum-
mer appetizer. A pasta
gratin of fusilli or
the area the cheese is
produced in because
there are so many vari-
ables, from the season
the cheese was pro-
duced to the length of
time it has spent in brine
and more.
My favorite Fetas are the
clean, lemony varieties,
especially from Dodoni,
with a rich undertow and
lush texture. In barrel-
aged Feta there is often a
rich texture and deep fla-
vor imparted from the
barrel in which the
cheese matures. Other
Feta cheeses have an
to one’s own preference.
If the cheese is too salty,
put it in plain water. If it
is just right in salt but
leaves some creaminess
to be desired, add a few
hefty pinches of salt to
13 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
orrechietti with braised
leafy greens such as
mustard, chard or, bet-
ter still, nettles, and
chickpeas may sound
determinately Italian,
but add a little Feta and
it acquires a smooth,
tangy finish that
expands the cultural
heritage of the dish.
assertive tang that gives
way to mellower flavors.
Others are soft, almost
fruity, with a hint of
sweetness on the palate.
Goat’s milk Feta is bright
white and often charac-
terized by a crumbly tex-
ture and a sharp, acidic
aftertaste. Kalathaki, a
basket-shaped Feta
cheese from the island of
Limnos, has ridges from
the basket it is drained
in, with lean flavors and
dense texture.
The best way to judge is
to ask your cheese mon-
ger for a taste.
the water and cut it with
milk. If the cheese is just
right, ask the salesper-
son in the store to give
you some of the brine
from the container the
cheese came in.
Spicy Whipped Feta and Red Pepper on Bread

Yield: 4-6 meze servings

1 cup soft Greek Feta
1 roasted red pepper in olive oil, drained and coarsely chopped
Cayenne pepper to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
3-6 tablespoons extra-virgin Greek olive oil, as needed
2 teaspoons lemon juice, to taste
8-12 diagonal slices cut from a good baguette, each about 1 cm-
(approx. ½-inch) thick

1. Place the feta, roasted red pepper,
cayenne, and black pepper in the bowl
of a food processor and puree until
smooth. Add a little of the pepper’s
oil, the olive oil, and lemon juice in
alternating doses, until the mixture is
smooth and creamy. Remove.
2. Preheat the broiler. Brush the
baguette slices with a little olive oil
and place under the broiler, about 18
cm (approx. 6 inches) from the heat
source. Turn once. Remove when both
sides are lightly browned, about 3-4
minutes total.
To serve: Spread a little of the whipped
Feta over each of the toasted bread
slices. Garnish as desired, with a thin
strip of lemon, fresh herbs, or a thin
strip of roasted or fresh red pepper.

14 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Arugula, Pear, and Feta Salad
1. Place the arugula in a salad bowl.
Core and cut the pears into quarters.
Place the pears upright over the
arugula. Sprinkle with Feta and pista-
chios.
Kerasma recipes with feta
Yield: 4 servings
4 cups trimmed, torn, fresh arugula
2 fresh pears, washed and trimmed
1/2 cup crumbled Greek Feta
1/3 cup coarsely chopped, fresh Greek pistachios
1/3 cup extra-virgin Greek olive oil
3 tablespoons Greek raisin or aged red-wine vinegar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2. Whisk together the olive oil, vine-
gar, salt, and pepper and pour over the
salad. Serve immediately.
15 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Pan-Fried Greek Feta with a Sesame-Seed Crust

Yield: 4 servings
250 gr. (1/2 pound) hard Greek feta, aged in tins not barrels,
drained
1 large egg
2 cups sesame seeds
4 -6 tablespoons olive oil for sautéing

1. Cut the Feta into four 3/4-inch
slices.
2. Beat the egg lightly in a shallow
bowl. Spread the sesame seeds onto a
large plate. Dip the Feta first in the
egg and then in the sesame seeds,
turning to coat well on both sides.
Press down as you do this so that the
sesame seeds form a thick coat.
3. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy
nonstick skillet. Place one or two
slices of cheeses at a time in the skil-
let and sauté over medium-high heat.
As soon as the feta begins to soften
flip it over to brown lightly on the
other side. Repeat with remaining
Feta.

16 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Pasta Gratin with Braised Greens, Chick Peas, and Feta
Kerasma recipes with feta
Yield: 4 servings
450 gr. (1 pound) long Greek hilopites
(egg noodles) or tagliatelle
Salt
450 gr. (1 pound) chard, spinach, amaranth, or beet greens,
trimmed, washed, and drained
½ cup extra-virgin Greek olive oil
2 cups cooked chick peas
2 cups crumbled Greek Feta

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to
a rolling boil and cook the pasta until
slightly underdone. Remove and drain.
2. Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil and
sauté the greens over high heat in a
large, nonstick skillet until just wilted.
Drain, reserving 2/3 cup of the liquid.
3. Combine the pasta, greens, olive oil,
chick peas, and 2/3 cup of the liquid
from the greens in an ovenproof,
preferably ceramic, gratin dish.
Sprinkle with feta. Cover with alu-
minum foil and bake for 15 minutes.
Light the broiler, remove the alu-
minum foil, and place the gratin under
the broiler, about 18 cm (6 inches)
from the heat source. Broil for a few
minutes until the Feta browns lightly.
Remove and serve.

Photography: Vassilis Stenos

Styling: Vicky Smyrli, Paola Lakka

17 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Say “olives” and most people will respond with “Greece.” But say
“olive oil” and Greece is not always the first region that comes
to mind. Yet Greece, with annual production figures of around
400,000 tonnes, is in the major league of olive oil producers,
with the second highest production in the world.

Greek
By Judy Ridgway
Photography: Constanine Pittas,
Vassilis Stenos

Olive Oil

19 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Yet, the quality and the range of
taste and flavor of Greek olive oil is
something of a well-kept secret.
This is because so much Greek olive
oil either is sold at home or export-
ed into well-known brands and
own-label oils packed in other
countries.
However with the growing popular-
ity of PDO (Protected Designation of
Origin) oils, there are now 14 such
regions in Greece. More individual
oils are beginning to emerge and
bottled and sold in their own right.
Over the last decade, for example,
the number of individual brands has
increased tremendously. These oils
are well worth seeking out for they
offer both culinary versatility and
value for money.
20 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
In Greece, olives and olive oil have olive tree not only for its practical
been an integral part of the way of attributes but also for its divinity.
life since Homer’s time. Indeed so In later millennia that reverence
important was olive oil to the was absorbed into the liturgy of
economy of 6th century BC Greece the Greek Orthodox Church.
that anyone caught cutting down During the Byzantine empire
an olive tree was executed! monasteries were instrumental in
The ancient Greeks revered the ensuring the continuity of olive oil
VITAL STATISTICS oil Greece produces olive oil production that
50 annually is extra virgin
Number of municipali- 190,000 19
ties, out of a national Number of tons of olive Number of liters of olive
total of 54, where olives oil exported oil consumed per capita,
are cultivated 95 per annum, in Greece
140.000.000 Percentage of Greek <1
Number of olive trees in olive exports to the Number of liters of olive
Greece European Union oil consumed per capita,
400.000 75 per annum, in the
Number of tons of olive Percentage of Greek United States
Extra virgin olive produced in Greece has risen to
almost 80%, which is a much higher percentage
than in other Mediterranean olive-oil-producing
countries.
production. Each one had its own
olive grove and produced its own
olive oil for use in both holy servic-
es and in the kitchens. A wonderful
example of just such a grove has
been restored at the Kaisariani
monastery on Mount Hymettus
just a few minutes from the center
of Athens. A few years ago I
attended a fascinating tasting of
monastery-produced olive oils
which would not normally be avail-
able to anyone other than the
monks. The oils were as varied in
taste and in quality as at any com-
mercial tasting.
Today the production of olive oil in
Greece is based on numerous small
farms scattered across the regions.
Some farmers sell their produce to
privately owned mills. Others
belong to local cooperatives, which
in turn are members of secondary
cooperatives developed in the sec-
ond half of twentieth century to
handle and sell oil in bulk. These
organizations have done much to
raise standards both in the groves
and in the mills so that the propor-
tion of extra virgin olive produced
in Greece has risen to almost 80%,
which is a much higher percentage
than in other Mediterranean olive-
oil-producing countries.
Olive trees are everywhere in
Greece. Certain regions, however,
stand out for the quality of their
oils. The mountainous regions of
the Peleponnese are among best
known for their olive oil. The PDO
21 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
region of Kalamata in the west
produces an excellent oil not from
the Kalamata olive, most of which
goes for table olives, but from the
Koroneiki olive. The groves here
spill down from the mountains to
the sea in a funnel shaped valley
which spreads along the coast.
These oils are usually quite robust
with plenty of grassy tones, bitter
almond skins, and spicy pepper.
The Koroneiki olive is the base for a
good many Greek oils and
accounts for the deeply herba-
ceous tones found in so many of
them. Sometimes it is pressed on
its own and sometimes mixed with
other local varieties. In nearby
Messinia, for example, the farms
grow small quantities of Manaki
and Athinolia olives which often go
into the mix with Koroneiki. The
result is a lighter oil with more cit-
rus and nutty tones.
Further south, down the Mani
peninsula, the Koroneiki olives offer
softer, gentler oils but still with
those characteristic herbaceous
tones. This is a remote area which
sticks to traditional methods and
many of the oils are certified organ-
ic. Over the Taigetos mountains,
Lakonia offers more first-class oils
with three PDO regions and a more
general PGI (Protected
Geographical Indication) for the
whole region. I received my first
introduction to Athinolia olive oil
here. It was poured straight from
the press onto a hunk of lightly
toasted bread, liberally sprinkled
with salt and served with very ripe
tomatoes and fresh goat’s milk
22 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
cheese — delicious.
The Greeks themselves praise the
sweeter oils of Lygourio and
Kranidi, also PDO areas, in the
eastern Peleponnese, where the
Manaki olive is dominant. These
oils offer subtle aromas of apples
and citrus fruits with only a touch
of bitterness and pepper.
Olive oils from Mytilene (the island
of Lesbos) are also much admired.
Everyone who visits the Greek
islands knows that they each pro-
duce their own olive oil and many
of them have their own PDOs, but
until recently very few of these oils
found their way off their home
island. This is slowly changing as
island producers look further afield
for markets. The organic oils of
Zakynthos, for example, with their
fragrant mix of apples, salad
leaves, and herbs can now be
Lygourio
Zakynthos
Kranidi
Messinia
Mani
Chania
Rethymnon
Heraklion
Island of Crete
found in the UK.
Of all the islands, Crete is most
prominent for olive oil. In fact
Crete led the islands into the inter-
national market. Crete boasts
seven PDO regions as well as a
PGI. The two best known regions
are situated at either end of the
island, at Kolimvari in the west
and Sitia in the east. Most produc-
tion is in cooperatives but there is
also a number of smaller produc-
ers who press excellent oils.
Koroneiki dominates here as it
does on the mainland, but there
are some local varieties such as
Tsounati in Chania, Throumbalia
in Rethymnon, and Hondrolia in
Heraklion. The taste and flavors of
the oils are quite varied.
The Greeks “eat” olive oil as the
British eat butter, consuming
around 20 litres per head per
Olive tree cultivation in
Greece. A particularly
extensive shorline
(15,021 km) not only
favors but actually dic-
tates cultivation.
Mytilene
Sitia
annum. This is more than the
Spanish or the Italians and much
more than those in the nonproduc-
ing countries, but when I visit
Greece I understand why this is the
case. The herbaceous style of the
oil really compliments the everyday
diet with its emphasis on fresh
vegetables, grains, cheese and fish.
It is difficult to resist a simple dish
of baby beetroot steamed with its
own greens, chilled, and served
with a splash of lemon juice and a
good slug of Cretan oil!
But good as Greek oil is within the
culinary traditions of its homeland
it is also an excellent choice for a
wider range of cooking. Many
leading chefs choose Greek oil for
their kitchens because it is so ver-
satile. I have enjoyed Greek extra
virgin olive oil served as a dip with
dukka in Sydney, drizzled over a
warm salad of chicken livers and
pancetta in Brussels, and served
with char-grilled tuna steaks on a
bed of rocket in California.

OLIVE OIL IN THE GREEK
KITCHEN
Greeks use olive oil with
abandon. It is used in frying,
sautéing grilling, roasting,
and baking. Olive oil goes
into marinades for grilled
fish, meats and vegetables
and is used as a base for var-
ious sauces, both raw and
cooked. One of the simplest
such sauces is a smooth,
whisked elixir made from
olive oil, fresh lemon juice,
and herbs that gets drizzled
over grilled whole fish. Raw,
as a condiment, olive oil is
bread’s most natural part-
ner, a duet that makes for
one of the best snacks and
breakfasts in the world.
Olive oil also is used to pre-
serve all sorts of foods, from
cheeses to cured meats and
fish, to grilled vegetables,
and, of course, olives.
There is a whole range of
Greek dishes called lathera or
olive-oil based, which are
generally one-pot vegetable
and bean stews in which
olive oil is one of the main
flavoring agents.
In the traditional pastry
kitchen, olive oil replaces
butter during the periods of
fasting; there are even short-
bread cookies made with
olive oil instead of butter.
Phyllo and olive oil go hand
in hand, in both savory and
sweet pies. Olive oil cakes
and creams, often countered
with a generous dose of
lemon or orange to offset
the unctuous texture
imparted by the oil, are
among the most healthful
sweets in the
Mediterranean. Modern pas-
try chefs have been experi-
menting with olive oil as well
as with olives to create a
whole new lexicon of Greek
desserts (see recipes on
pages ???).

British food writer Judy Ridgway is an international expert and judge

of olive oil and the author of Best Olive Oil Buys Round The World:
The New Edition, which was published in September, 2005.

23 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
24 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Grilled Portobello Mushrooms Drizzled
with Parsley, Garlic, and Olive Oil Kerasma recipes with olive oil

Yield: 4 servings
4 large Portobello mushrooms, stems removed
2 garlic cloves, peeled
2/3 cup extra virgin Greek olive oil
Juice of 1 large lemon
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1. Light the broiler or grill to medium
according to individual directions.
2. Crush one of the garlic cloves with
the blade of a large knife. Whisk
together 1/3 cup olive oil, the lemon
juice, and the crushed garlic. Season
with salt and pepper. Marinate the
portobellos for 30 minutes, turning
them frequently. Remove and hold
them over the bowl in which they
were marinating, to let any excess liq-
uid drip off.
3. Lightly oil the grill rack. Place the
mushrooms cap-up on the grill over
direct heat, turning them once, and
brushing them with the marinade as
they grill. Remove when the grill
marks are visible and the mushrooms
lightly charred. If using the broiler,
broil the mushrooms 15cm (6 inches)
from heat source, turning once.
4. Pulse the remaining olive oil, bal-
samic vinegar, parsley and garlic in a
food processor until smooth and emul-
sified. Season with salt and pepper.
5. Drizzle the olive-oil-parsley mixture
around the mushrooms, sprinkle with
freshly ground pepper, and serve.

25 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
26 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Grilled Shrimp with Orzo, Feta,
Smoked Tomatoes and Raw Olive Oil Kerasma recipes with olive oil

Yield: 6 servings
1 kilo (2 pounds) plum tomatoes, halved lenghtwise and seeded
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1-2 teaspoons sugar
2/3 cup extra virgin Greek olive oil
2-3 Tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1/3 cup wrinkled black olives
1/3 cup julienne fresh basil or 1/3 cup fresh oregano, leaves only,
chopped
1 small head of garlic
Fresh, strained juice of 1 lemon
125 gr. (1/4 pound)Greek feta, cut into 1/3 - inch cubes
1 kilo (2 pounds) medium shrimp, peeled, deveined, tails removed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
500 gr. (1 pound) orzo

1. Light the grill according to individ-
ual unit directions. Bring a large pot
of lightly salted water to a boil.
2. Lightly oil a large shallow heavy
metal baking pan, large enough to
hold the tomato halves in one layer.
Toss the tomatoes with 3 tablespoons
olive oil, salt, pepper and sugar and
place cut side up in the pan. Sprinkle
with balsamic vinegar. Cover with
aluminum foil and place on the grill,
over indirect heat. Wrap the garlic
head with double strength aluminum
foil and place on the grill rack, over
indirect heat, too. Close the lid on the
grill and smoke the tomatoes and gar-
lic for about 20 - 25 minutes, until the
tomatoes are soft and charred.
Remove the tomatoes and set aside,
covered to keep warm.
3. Boil the orzo to al dente. Remove,
drain, and toss with 3-4 tablespoons
of olive oil.
4. Toss the shrimp with salt and pep-
per and grill, over direct heat, for
about 3-4 minutes per side. Remove.
Remove garlic from grill, separate the
cloves and squeeze out the pulp into
the orzo.
5. Toss the orzo with the tomatoes,
shrimp, olives, feta, remaining olive oil,
lemon juice, and herbs. Garnish with
fresh lemon wedges and fresh basil or
oregano. Serve warm.

27 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
When I first moved to Greece 13 years ago, the culinary scene
was in its infancy. Supermarkets didn’t carry half of what they
carry now; with the exception of a few shops in the chicest
neighborhoods, gourmet shops hardly existed; regional prod-
ucts could only be found if you had a relative near a bus depot
willing to send you a box of local goodies; becoming a cook was
a practical life choice, but being a celebrity chef unheard of.

Athens By Diane Kochilas

Photography: Vassilis Stenos

on a plate

29 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
There were no newspaper food
columns and just one food maga-
zine meant for homemakers of a
certain age. The Central Market
was a bustling paean to working-
class Greekdom, with nothing
remotely cosmopolitan about it.
It’s amazing what little more than a
decade in this globalized world will
do for a city. Athens back then was
just beginning to shed its air of
homey provinciality and embrace a
more urbane identity. Now the
Greek capital is a vibrant food city,
30 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
on the one hand shaped by the
pride of local chefs and entrepre-
neurs who have breathed new life
into every level of Greek cuisine, and
on the other influenced by the
waves of immigrants who have
opened up shops in and around the
city’s historic commercial center, so
that now you can shop for kafir lime
leaves alongside Kalamata olives.
I am one of those rare travelers
who prefer to visit supermarkets
rather than souvenir shops when I
am in a foreign city. I know there
are others like me out there, people
for whom a literal taste of a place is
worth a thousand postcards.
Downtown Athens has lots to offer
a wandering gourmet. A ramble
through the city’s gastronomic
center inevitably leads to the
Central Market. The Central
Market, on Athinas Street, not too
far from the Monastiraki, which is
one of the city’s major tourist des-
tinations, recently got a facelift.
The streets around the market are
filled with small shops selling
31 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
everything from herbs and spices
to cheeses, olives, nuts, local dried
fruits, charcuterie, and culinary
trinkets. The intrepid traveler
might consider dining in one of the
old-time, working-class restau-
rants inside the market. In the last
two years or so, however, the area
around the Central Market has
evolved into a dynamic, trendy
restaurant scene, where sleek bou-
tique hotels and upscale restau-
32 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
rants vie for space with old-fash-
ioned, traditional tavernas and
other businesses from another era.
Shopkeepers have also gotten in
on the upscale act downtown.
Athens is a great place to scout for
some of Greece’s culinary treas-
ures. Evripidou Street, which flanks
the market, abounds with small
specialty shops for cheeses, herbs
and dried goods. A few modern
gourmet shops have opened up in
the greater downtown area, too.
Two of my favorites are Mesogaia
on the edge of the Plaka and
Gnision Esti a few blocks away
tucked on a side street behind the
Statue of Kolokotroni. Mesogaia
opened a few years ago when geo-
physicist Manolis Androulakis
decided to change career paths
and indulge his childhood passion
for great food. He grew up on Crete
in a family, as he puts it, “obsessed
with food.” His native island pro-
vides the backdrop and provenance
for many of this lovely shop’s offer-
ings, from artisinal sheep’s milk
cheeses to exquisite olive oils and
tiny olives. But he has also sought
out the best of Greece’s artisan
producers of almost everything
edible, from hand-made honey-
laced nut and sesame confections
to ice cream, preserves, Greek
honey, and more. He also has a
The Greek capital
is a vibrant food city.
pretty good wine selection. Gnision
Esti is a little smaller, but jam-
packed with Greek gourmet items,
from sun-dried tomato paste from
the Aegean to hand made flavored
pasta and some lovely confections.
Another great gourmet stop is
arguably the city’s first gourmet
supermarket, AB (Greeks pro-
nounce it Alfa-Veeta) on Stadiou
Street. You’ll find a very good selec-
tion of almost everything here.
33 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
In the years since I first moved
here, Greece — with Athens as its
heart — has transformed itself into
a culinary wunderkind. The restau-
rant scene is bustling, a whole new
generation of artisan producers
has given retail foods caché, and
the wines and spirits hold their
own next to some of finest
European selections. Athens is a
city of edible and potable sou-
venirs. Enjoy them.
Wine is one of the oldest products
of the Greek earth. Greeks consider
it part of their national heritage.
Wine has been part of the Greek
table for millennia but it also has a
cultural and religious role. Every
one of the religious and cultural rit-
uals surrounding life’s milestones is
commemorated with wine.
Historically wine has played a sig-
nificant role in the country’s agri-
culturally-based economy. Even to
this day, the wine industry is one of
the most vibrant and progressive in
Greece. Unlike other, newer, wine-
producing countries, in Greece
vines were never planted extensive-
ly as part of some national agricul-
tural or economic development
strategy; they simply always exist-
ed, at least as far back as the
Neolithic era. The vine is basic to
Greece’s agricultural traditions, and
it has always flourished — literally —
in the same area as wheat and olive
trees, an agricultural trinity whose
roots are lost in time.
The ancient Greeks developed certain
Grapes of Distinction
By Yannis Voyatzis
Photography: Constantine Pittas
34 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
farming techniques for the vine, such
as specific pruning methods and lin-
ear cultivation; they also developed
the art and science of wine making
and marketing. They were the first,
for example, to institute a system of
designated appellations of origin;
wine amphorae were stamped to
indicate the product’s provenance.
The wines of Chios, Ikaria, and
Thassos, all islands in the northeast-
ern Aegean, were highly prized
regional specialties. The ancient
Greeks also developed the art of serv-
ing wine; the first sommeliers poured
forth their offerings several thousand
years ago, at Symposia and other
ancient Greek banquets.
Despite an illustrious early history,
Greece’s place in today’s world of
wine production is relatively small,
mainly because its volumes are
small. Nevertheless, the country
produces wines with great regional
diversity. The wines produced on the
islands are highly distinct from those
produced in Greece’s mountainous
regions and in inland valleys.
Yannis Voyatzis is chief oenologist for Boutaris Wines and also produces his own label,
Ktima Voyatzi, in northern Greece.
Arguably, though, the most promis-
ing aspect of the entire Greek wine-
making landscape is the country’s
singular range of indigenous vinifi-
able grapes. The world wine market
is dominated more and more by
varietal-driven, as opposed to ter-
roir-driven, wines. That is good
news for Greek wines.
Right now, the global vineyard is
dominated by a few international
grape varietals. But Greek wines
possess a singular characteristic
that few other wine-producing
nations can boast. There are more
than 300 local grape varietals that
are exclusively Greek. They lend a
specific, unique identity to Greek
wines and a point of differentiation
which is their greatest selling point.
Greece’s distinct, local grape vari-
eties are a liberating antidote to the
monotonous grip that the few
global grape varietals hold over the
wine industry. To put it simply:
There is something new to be dis-
covered in the world’s oldest wine-
making tradition.
Even if you can't live under the Greek sun, you can still enjoy
Greek wines. Following is a glossary of the main Greek grape
varietals.
Greek Wines
from A to...X

Agiorgitiko (left page)

Assyrtiko (above left)
Xynomavro (above right)

37 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Agiorgitiko (a-gee-or-GHEE-tee-ko):
The king of red grapes in the
Peloponnese, Agiorgitiko is cultivated in
Nemea. It produces wines that are deep
red in color with pronounced cassis and
blackberry flavor and a rich, mature, vel-
vety, luscious texture. The supple young
Agiorgitiko wines are fruit-forward and
are enjoyable early. However, there is
enough big structure to support long-
term cellaring (5-10 years).
Assyrtiko (a-SEAR-tee-ko): Assyrtiko is
the dominant grape of Santorini, but it
has successfully migrated to Halkidiki,
Epanomi, Drama, and Mount Pangeo in
northern Greece as well as to the
Peloponnese. It maintains a high acidi-
ty even in fully ripeness. With crispy
acidity and excellent minerality, its
wines are rich and refreshing. The aro-
mas suggest citrus, lemon blossom,
orange zest and grapefruit.
Athiri (a-THEE-ree): This is another
white grape, common to the islands of
Athiri
38 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
the southern Aegean and Halkidiki, in
eastern Macedonia. Its wines have
lovely floral aromas and a good mouth-
watering attack that wakes up the
palate.
Debina (de-BEE-na): A white variety
from Epirus whose wines place empha-
sis on the fruit. They are noted for their
refreshing acidity and for the aroma’s
finesse, which is reminiscent of green
apple and pear. Debina offers a high
potential for the production of efferves-
cent wines.
Kotsifali (ko-tsee-FA-lee): A red Cretan
grape, Kotsifali produces wines that are
wonderfully juicy with bright red plums
and a good grip on the palate. It is usu-
ally blended with another island red
grape, Mantilaria.
Liatiko (Lee-A-tee-ko): An exclusively
Cretan grape, Liatiko is considered one
of the oldest Greek varieties. It matures
in July, hence its name, which is a
Liatiko
transliteration of “Juliatiko.” Liatiko is a
variety with high alcohol potential that
best demonstrates its qualities when
sufficiently ripe.
Limnio (Lee-mnee-O): Limnio, is an
ancient a red grape varietal native to
the island of Limnos. It was mentioned
by Aristotle and other ancient writers.
Today it is cultivated not only in
Limnos, but also in Halkidiki, and
northern Greece, where it produces
lovely, silky red with the exotic perfume
of wet violets and cherries.
Malagouzia (Ma-la-ghoo-zee-A): This
fine white Greek variety is very possibly
related to the famous Medieval wine
“Malvasia.” It was saved from oblivion
thanks to the acumen of several Greek
producers who believed in its potential.
Critical praise and consumer excite-
ment have proven them right.
Malagouzia wines have strong fra-
grance, complexity. and verve, as well
as a long, slightly peppery finish.
Mavrodaphne
Mantilaria (Man-dee-la-ree-A): This red
Aegean variety flourishes on the the
islands of Paros, Rhodes, and Crete. It
has an unruly character and is usually
blended with other Greek varietals that
soften its rougher qualities and add fine
notes to its clearly earthy tones.
Mavrodaphne (Ma-vro-THA-fnee): This
familiar aromatic grape is usually culti-
vated in the vineyards of Patra and
Cephalonia. Most of its yield is used to
produce the strong, sweet, high-grade,
aged red wine that bears the same
name.
Moschofilero (Mos-ko-FEE-lai-ro): This
variety is known as a blanc de gris,
meaning that its skin color can range
from light pink to deep purple. It is cul-
tivated on the plateau of Mantinia and
in the southern Peloponnese.
Moschofilero produces wines with
notes of rose, mint, and lemon.
Muscat: Although Muscat (Moschato
Moschofilero
in Greek) is cultivated in several places,
the grape is historically associated with
the straw-colored sweet wines of
Samos. Samos muscats are full-bodies,
dense and concentrated, with aromas
of apple and pear.
Robolla (ro-BO-la): This white grape,
cultivated on the Ionian island of
Cephalonia, is one of the most elegant
Greek varieties. Its wines are fresh, with
sunny notes of lemon.
Roditis (ro-THEE-tees): Wines from this
variety are made throughout almost all
of Greece, but with best results near
Patras in the western Peloponnese, in
parts of Macedonia, and in Thessaly.
When its yields are controlled and it is
carefully vinified, Roditis gives us light
and inviting wines that exude the fresh-
ness of citrus, apple, and pear.
Savatiano (sa-va-tee-a-NO): The most
ubiquitous grape, Savatiano is found in
Attica and throughout the whole of
Limnio
39 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
central Greece. Along with Roditis, it is
the main grape used for the production
of Retsina.
Vilana (vee-LA-na): An old Cretan vari-
ety, Vilana is a sensitive white grape
produces modest yields and pleasant
wines with flowery and fruity aromas.
Xinomavro (xee-NO-ma-vro): A red
grape, it is the prime variety of northern
Greece and is cultivated widely from the
slopes of the central Greek mountains
to the ranges of Pindos. It is the grape of
Naoussa, Goumenissa, Amynteon, and
Rapsani. Xinomavro has a distinctive,
dark-red color and an acidic taste even
when ripe. Its name means “sour black.”
When young, Xinomavro wines are
unyielding, but they soften with time
and age beautifully, acquiring a unique
complexity and palate that yields suc-
cessive waves of cherry-tomato, plums,
violets, and lilies. The wines can be a
touch tannic but will smooth out with
an hour or two of decanting.
Roditis
I entered the Greek wine business in the late 1980s,
at the start of what was to become a Renaissance in the
Greek vineyard. It was a time of idealism and vision
coupled by a lucky confluence of events.

A wine-
dark sea *

of change By Maria Netsika

Photography: Constantine Pittas

* from Homer’s Οίνοξ Πόντος, a reference to the Black Sea.

41 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
A young generation of winemak-
ers, together with a handful of
visionary older winemakers, would
eventually change the face of
Greek wines. The 1970s and ‘80s
were a time of tremendous experi-
mentation.
The new generation, most of
whom had studied in Bordeaux,
combined knowledge of modern
vinification technology, familiarity
with international varietals, and a
newfound, passionate interest in
one of the most fascinating
aspects of their native land: the
more than 300 vinis vinifera grape
varietals that are indigenous to
Greece.
Whereas a few decades ago, the
Greek wine market was dominated
42 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
by a handful of large producers,
such as Boutaris, Tsantalis,
Kourtakis and Achaia Claus, today
it is characterized by its impressive
pluralism. There are now more
than 300 winemakers in Greece,
producing more than 3,000 labels.
Single-varietal Greek and interna-
tional wines as well as blended
wines are all part of the Greek wine
world now; twenty years ago there
were 27 designated appellations of
origin; today there are 28 as well as
more than 100 geographical indi-
cations of origin, which refer to vin
de pays (local wines).
The innovations have paid off.
Greek wines win top awards at all
the prestigious wine competitions,
such as Vinalies International,
Mundus Vini, Selections
Mondiales, and the Decanter
Awards.
For wine aficionados for whom
Greece might still be uncharted
territory, it makes most sense to
look at Greek wine production in
simple red and white terms.
THE GREEK VINEYARD UP
CLOSE
NORTHERN GREEK REDS
I begin my foray into the Greek
vineyard with Naoussa, long a
wine-producing region in central
Macedonia and one best known for
its high-quality red wines and for
its core grape, the Xinomavro.
Xinomavro is the noblest indige-
nous red grape varietal in northern
Greece. In Naoussa, the best xino-
mavro grapes are cultivated on
sun-drenched slopes and are kept
well protected from northern
winds. The wines produced from
Xinomavro are popular in Greece;
devotees praise the wines’ rich
fruit, tasty acidity, and untamed
tannins, which age beautifully.
Greek Xinomavro offers a unique
alternative to Pinot Noir.
Xinomavro is also cultivated in
western Macedonia, on the moun-
tain plateau of Amynteon, at alti-
tudes around 700m (2,100 ft.), sur-
rounded by crystalline lakes. In
Amynteon, days are warm but
nights are cool. The difference in
temperature slows down the matu-
ration of the grapes, allowing the
phenolics of the skins to develop a
greater complexity, which is evi-
dent in the character of the wines.
Distinctive examples of blended
wines are produced in Amynteon,
too. The most exciting come from
blending Xinomavro with Syrah and
Merlot. One of Greece’s most deli-
cious rosé wines, full of rich fruity
character, is also produced here,
and the area has also proven to be
surprisingly conducive to the culti-
vation of juicy Sauvignon Blanc.
High-altitude vineyards are promis-
ing for the production of red wines,
and Rapsani, on the southeastern
slopes of Mount Olympus, pro-
duces some of the country’s most
serious, seductive wines.
43 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Xinomavro thrives here, too, but
so do other, more arcane, varietals
such as Krassato and Stavroto. The
wines of Rapsani, full of ripe mul-
berry fruit and packed with fine
tannins, are among the rising stars
of the Greek vineyard.
Metsovo, at a mountain pass
1,200m (3,600 ft.) high in the
Pindus Mountains in northwestern
Greece, is a relatively new grape-
growing region. Here, several inter-
national varieties have found a
home and done well: Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay,
and Traminer wines show the
finesse and elegance that high-alti-
tude regions are capable of.
Northern Greece, with its verdant,
imposing mountains, is also home
to one of the loveliest — and most
touristed — coastlines. Along the
coast, especially on Mount Meliton
in Halkidiki, east of Thessaloniki, at
Porto Carras, some of the region’s
juiciest red wines are made. The
ancient Greek varietal Limnio flour-
ishes here, but so do Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot, and many of
the wines that are produced here
are blends. They exude an aromatic
depth and rich fruity character.
PELOPONNESE REDS
Greece’s South, and even a few
islands, produce some noteworthy
red wines, too. Arguably the most
44 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
thrilling red wine region in southern
Greece is also the country’s largest
wine-growing region: Nemea, just
south of the Isthmus of Corinth.
Nemea is famous for its local
Agiorgitiko grape. The Agiorgitiko
produces wines full of ripe fruit, sun-
shine, soft sexy tannins, lots of fla-
vor and good body. They are so dark
that in local lore they are called the
“blood of Hercules.” There are
approximately 20 wineries in the
region, owned by highly conscien-
tious producers who produce wines
of exceptional quality.
Greek reds have won praise among
wine enthusiasts of every vane;
there is a Greek red for every liking,
for those who favor traditional
style wines and those who gravi-
tate toward modern, New World-
style wines.
GREEK WHITES
Few wine enthusiasts worldwide
associate Greece with crispy,
refreshing dry white wines, but
that is a misconception easily
debunked if you’ve ever had a taste
of the whites produced in
Epanomi, Drama, or Mount
Pangeon in northern Greece and in
the Atalanti valley in central
Greece. In these regions, produc-
ers have embraced the art of
blending Greek varietals such as
Assyrtico and Malagouzia, mainly
with Sauvignon Blanc. (The red
wines produced in these regions
also tend to be blends, mainly of
Syrah, Merlot, and Cabernet
Sauvignon.) Investment in these
regions’ vineyards has been copi-
ous over the last decade, and some
of the loveliest Greek estates are
here, too.
GREEK WHITES IN THE SOUTH AND
ON THE ISLANDS
Some of the best known Greek
whites are made in the south and
on the islands.
Mantinia, in the Peloponnese, for
example, has emerged as a region
with great potential for producing
terroir-driven dry white wines. Its
core grape is the white variety
Moschofilero, which flourishes on
vines grown on a high-altitude
plateau. Moschofilero is character-
ized by a delightful elegance, with
notes of rose and basil. It appeals
to wine lovers who appreciate con-
centrated fruit.
Of all Greece’s native white grape
varietals, Assyrtico is probably the
most fascinating. Although it is
grown in the North and elsewhere,
its historic home is Santorini. One
Maria Netsika is a trained oenologist, consultant, and publisher of Wine-Plus, a trade journal
about the wine world.
45 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
could write tomes on the unique
character of the island and its
wines. Santorini’s most significant
and unique characteristic is its
physical makeup: The island is vol-
canic. Its chalky soil has been
formed by layers of ash, lava and
pumice stone. Vines flourish mirac-
ulously here, in almost desert con-
ditions. The result is in the island’s
wines, which are refreshing and
lively. Santorini Assyrtico is known
for its pure, bright fruit and zesty
acidity. There is no other wine
quite like it. In many respects it is
a paradigm of the unique character
of the whole Greek vineyard.
What is a meze?
It is arguably Greece’s most familiar type of food, served up on
small plates and meant to inspire conviviality. Yet, when we
asked three of Greece’s top chefs to define the meze concept,
their response was an act of typical Greek dialectics. Forks in
hand, they jostled over the meaning of meze all the while par-
taking in its essence: talking while leisurely grazing over the
range of meze recipes they each created for this issue.

Meze
chefs talk about
Greece’s best treats Diane Kochilas
Photography: Vassilis Stenos

46 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
“When I sit at a table, this is what I
want,” says chef Lefteris Lazarou,
pointing to a landscape of small
plates set before him. “A variety of
dishes. Even at lunch with my kids
there are always olives, always
some little fish tidbit, a marinated
anchovy, mackerel, whatever.”
Lazarou takes a broad approach in
his definition of Greece’s most famil-
iar food: “Anything can be a meze as
long as it’s served on a small plate,
as long as the portion is small. Who
says pastitsio [Greece’s pasta,
ground-meat and béchamel classic]
can’t be a meze? If you can pick it up
in one forkful you can serve it as a
meze. There are no rules except one:
Mezedes aren’t about quantity but
about variety.”
Lazarou’s restaurant, Varoulko,
with one Michelin star, is one of
Athens’ top fine-dining spots, and
he has embraced the small-plate
concept to fit the needs of his
upscale menu.
Most of Varoulko’s customers suc-
cumb to the chef ’s inspiring sug-
gestions and give him the freedom
to bring what he wants to their
table. There is a menu, but people
who know the restaurant seldom
ask for it. Lazarou, who prepares
dozens of different dishes each day,
says that he tailors the selection
according to how he perceives the
customer. If there is a table of
Italians, for example, he will serve
a selection of dishes where tomato
sauce figures prominently.
“Germans, on the other hand, are
used to the taste of smoked foods,
so I bring out a greater selection of
48 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
smoked fish. The French like
cooked, sauced dishes and
casseroles, the Spanish anything
wrapped in pastry. I instinctively
try to find the comfort level of my
clientele and design their dinner
accordingly.” It’s a useful strategy,
he says, when trying to communi-
cate the meze concept to non-
Greek cooks. “I want to give other
chefs the opportunity to use some-
thing from my native land in their
own kitchen, to see Feta in a differ-
ent way, for example, as some-
thing a French chef might use in a
sauce because dairy-based sauces
are familiar to him, or something a
Spanish chef might consider in a
hand-held pie, an Italian over
pasta, etc. Where does the meze
concept fit in? In the sheer variety
of choices and dishes that one can
call mezedes.”
ONE BITE, ONE BURST
For Christoforos Peskias, executive
chef at 48 The Restaurant in down-
town Athens, a meze is equal to
“small plates, easy-to-understand
dishes that you can ‘get’ in one
bite.” There are certain things you
can serve in small portions, but not
everything, he explains. “Brined
anchovies, small olives, cold cuts —
these are the typical things I think
of when I think of mezedes. Lamb
fricassee, with egg-lemon sauce
and caramelized vegetables, which
is the way I make it, can’t be served
in one bite. You need a lot of bites
to understand a dish like that.
Mezedes are simpler. One bite, one
burst of flavor.”
Peskias’ image of the classic meze
scene is indelibly tied to Greek
summer. “I spend time with friends
sailing. We’ll sit down at some
point, cut up some cheese, put
some cured fish and Greek charcu-
terie on a plate. It all goes down
with ouzo. That’s a classic meze for
me. And for some reason it’s
always in the late afternoon. We
just sit down to nibble, not to eat.
There’s a difference.”
Despite his seemingly traditionalist
attitude toward mezedes, Peskias is
probably the most technique-savvy
chef working in Greece. He some-
times, to his chagrin he says, is
called Greece’s “Ferran,” in reference
to Spain’s famous and iconoclastic
chef, Ferran Adria, whose ground-
breaking food science changed the
face of modern cooking. “Not every-
thing goes as a meze,” says Peskias,
“but knowing a variety of tech-
niques gives you greater opportuni-
ty to play with temperatures, tex-
tures, wetness, dryness, etc. You
can make a wet croquette by using
a gelling agent such as agar agar,
and you can take a classic Greek
cheese like manouri, turn it into
cannelloni with the help of some
gelatin and agar - agar, then use it
to wrap fresh asparagus. That’s a
meze to me, one I put on my menu
last year.”
Peskias foams all sorts of things,
too. Two of his favorite foamed
Greek classics are the garlic-yogurt
dip called tzatziki and the garlic-
potato dip skordalia. “I serve them
next to something crunchy, like
fried fish.” Contrast has always been
important when serving mezedes.
The techniques of modern cooking
don’t change the essence of
mezedes, says Peskias. “They just
enable you to be more playful.”
THE IMPORTANCE OF BEING
CONVIVIAL
French-trained Yiannis Baxevannis,
who just opened an eponymous
restaurant in central Athens, was
one of the first Greek chefs to look to
regional ingredients, especially
obscure and healthful greens, and
use them in novel ways. In the
process he helped cerate a new
Greek culinary vernacular. He
defines meze with his own mani-
festo: “Meze is a range of offerings
prepared from a range of ingredi-
ents, from the simplest raw ingredi-
ent to more complex combinations,
presented in the center of the table,
in small pieces or in servings that
can be easily divided and shared.
Mezedes have a double role: to
accompany drink and to help us feel
the comforts of familiarity and com-
raderie. The idea of sharing is very
important,” he says.“We’re all equal
when we share from the same plate.”
A meze can be something as sim-
ple as a quartered tomato and as
complicated as stuffed grape
leaves. Baxevannis sees a trend
developing toward slightly more
artful dishes. Where once the
range of meze found in most tradi-
tional Greek restaurants was limit-
ed and almost standardized (fried
zucchini and eggplant slices,
tzatziki, taramosalata (fish roe
spread) little meatballs, phyllo tri-
angles, pan-fried cheese, to name
a few [delicious] clichés, today, at
least in Greece, restaurants have
answered to the heat of competi-
tion by revitalizing their cooking.
49 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Even at home, cooking took a turn
toward the ultra-quick and simple,
notes Baxevannis, something he
hopes will change. “A generation
ago, home cooks used to invest a
lot of time in the proper prepara-
tion of certain mezedes, such as
hand-rolled grape leaves and
homemade phyllo pies. Nobody
does that anymore. It’s all quick
and easy, and for a long time that
was the route restaurants took.
A la minute, grilled stuff, fried
squid, and dishes that you didn’t
really have to think about.”
Baxevannis is among a growing
number of chefs in Greece who
serve a set meze menu as the first
part of the meal, and then give din-
ers the choice of a main course and
dessert. The set meze menu
changes almost daily, depending
on what he finds in the market.
There is always a handful of bite-
Lefteris Lazarou,
Christoforos Peskias
Yiannis Baxevannis
A LITTLE LINGUISTIC make the form of the Greek gets an extra syl- sized foods that he serves with an
CLARIFICATION: word change depending lable: mezedes (me-ZE- offering of Cretan eau de vie, and
Most English-speakers on its place in the sen- thez). OK, OK, it’s all
there is always a selection of at
pronounce the word tence, so that you might Greek, we know. The
least four seafood dishes.
ME-ze, but in Greek the encounter mezes, as a bottom line is even if
He uses beautiful plateware and
accent is on the second subject (although in you can’t pronounce it
cutlery as a way to simplify the
syllable, me-ZE. Our English it looks like the properly, you can still
actual food preparation. “Using
complicated declentions plural). The plural in savor it.
attractive plateware enables me to
cut back on some of the finicky
MEZE MUSTS and spicy; cool and should be convivial,
• Variety is crucial when smooth; crisp; crunchy; light-hearted, fun. aspects of plating. I don’t have to

putting together a succulent; dry or firm; • The food should be fuss with the food itself to make it

meze menu cold; hot; room tem- designed to accompany look good. I don’t have to hand-
• The selection of foods perature; hand-held various kinds of alco- carve vegetables to make a dish
should cover every food and plated but meant hol, especially red and look great.”
group: fish and to be shared. white Greek wine; His mezedes all follow what he
seafood, meat, dairy, • The foods are made to robust Greek spirits believes is the basic tenet for this
grains, and vegetables. be shared and grazed, such as ouzo or kind of cooking: The food has to be
• There should be a range with lots of offerings tsipouro; even beer.
able to be shared easily and quick-
of flavors, textures, on the table at once. Hard alcohol, such as
ly, and it has to be prepared with a
shapes, colors, temper- • The experience of meze whisky, is generally not
Greek aesthetic. I wouldn’t call
atures, so that diners dining should not be considered a suitable
something a la crème on a meze
enjoy food that’s hot particularly rushed but meze accompaniment.
menu.”

50 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Meze, the ultimate Greek treat.
The following recipes, our Kerasma—offering—for this first
issue, were created especially for the GreekGourmetraveler by
three of Greece’s top chefs: Yannis Baxevannis, Lefteris
Lazarou, and Christoforos Peskias. Their task was to create
dishes that highlight some of the best-known Greek ingredi-
ents, such as olive oil, feta, phyllo, and fish, and to take tradi-
tional Greek techniques and employ them in new ways. Enjoy,
savor, and share!

Meze
Recipes

51 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Phyllo Triangles Filled with Tarama (Fish Roe)

Yield: Approximately 30 triangles

100 gr. (3 oz.) tarama (fish roe)
150 gr. (5 oz.) plain fresh white bread crumbs
500 ml extra-virgin Greek olive oil
2 Tbsp. lemon juice
230 ml. seltzer water
1 packet (500 gr./ 1 pound) thin phyllo, defrosted
and at room temperature
Olive oil for brushing
Nigella or sesame seeds for garnish

1. Place the fish roe and breadcrumbs
in a blender and whip with a little of
the olive oil. Continue, with the motor
running, and add in alternating doses
the remaining olive oil, lemon juice,
and seltzer. Place the mixture in the
refrigerator to firm up for about one
hour.
2. Cut the phyllo sheets lengthwise
into strips about 5 cm (2 inches) wide.
Take two sheets at a time, brush the
first with a little olive oil, place the
second on top and brush with oil.
Place a heaping teaspoon of the tara-
ma at the bottom center of each dou-
ble strip and fold up, forming right tri-
angles as you go, or as one folds a
flag. Place seam-side down on a light-
ly oiled baking sheet. Continue until
all the tarama and phyllo are used up.
Brush the tops with a little oil and
sprinkle with sesame or nigella seeds.
Bake in a preheated oven at 180C
(375F) for about 10-12 minutes, or until
lightly golden and puffed. Serve.

52 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Small Phyllo Pastries Filled with Bream and Ouzo
1. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over
medium heat in a large, wide pot or
deep skillet and sauté the onion and
scallion until wilted. Add the greens
and tomato and raise the heat. Saute
until all their liquid has evaporated.
Add the dill or fennel.
Yield: 4-6 servings
Olive oil as needed
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 scallion, trimmed and finely chopped
250 gr. (1/2 pound) fresh, sweet seasonal greens, trimmed,
chopped, washed and drained
1 tomato, grated or seeded and finely chopped, with juices
1/2 bunch fresh dill or wild fennel, finely chopped
4 phyllo sheets, at room temperature
800 gr. (2 pounds) gilthead bream, filleted and shredded
1/2 teaspoon fennel seed, crushed in a spice grinder
Juice of 1 lemon
2 Tbsp. ouzo
Salt and pepper to taste
2. Preheat the oven to 200 C (400F). 3. Place the greens filling evenly inside
Brush a 25-cm (12-inch) round tart pan the phyllo. Shred the fish fillet into
with olive oil. Spread the phyllo hori- large pieces and toss with the lemon
zontally before you on a work surface. juice, ouzo, fennel seeds, salt, and
Cut into circles the same size as the pepper. Spread over the greens. Lower
bottom of the tart pan. Take the first the oven temperature to 180F (375F).
circle and brush with olive oil. Place a Bake the tart for 6-8 minutes.
second sheet on top and brush. Repeat Remove, let cool slightly and serve.
with two more sheets. Place the stack
of four oiled phyllo sheets inside the
tart pan, pressing down lightly. Place a
sheet of parchment and some pastry
weights on top and bake for about 3
minutes, or until pale gold in color.
Remove and cool slightly.
53 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Botargo Canapés with
Preserved Lemons and Whipped Yogurt Cream
Yield: 25 pieces
2 lemons
400 gr. (15 oz.) coarse Greek sea salt
200 ml heavy cream
100 ml Greek sheep’s milk yogurt
250 gr. (6 oz.) Greek botargo (pressed grey mullet roe),
sliced paper thin
25 slices of whole wheat bread,
cut into 4 x 9 cm (1 .5 x 3.5–inch) pieces
Greek extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

1. Start one month ahead on the

lemons: Cut each of the lemons
lengthwise into quarters, without cut-
ting all the way through to the bot-
tom. The lemons should not come
apart into pieces. Place in an airtight
container and cover with salt. Let
stand for one month.
2. Beat the heavy cream into whipped
cream and fold in the yogurt, salt and
pepper with a spatula. Set aside.
3. Remove one lemon from the salt.
Using a sharp paring knife, remove
and discard the pulp. For this recipe
only the skin is used. Cut the rind into
very thin strips.
4. Brush the bread pieces with olive oil
and bake for a few minutes, until
lightly browned. Remove. To serve:
Place 2 pieces of botargo on each piece
of bread, dot with a little of the
yogurt cream and garnish with pre-
served lemon strips. Serve.

54 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Olive Oil Rusks with
Spicy Mykonos Cheese Spread and Tomatoes
Yield: 15 pieces
15 small olive oil or other rusks
300 gr. (11 oz.) “kopanisti Mykonou,” or crumbled
Greek feta mixed with black pepper or cayenne
100 ml heavy cream
200 gr. ( about 2 ) fresh whole tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced
1 small bunch fresh chives, finely chopped
2-3 Tbsp. Greek extra-virgin olive oil

1. Mix the kopanisti (or crumbled feta

and pepper/cayenne) together with
the heavy cream until it is a spread-
able mixture.
2. Toss the diced tomatoes, chives, and
olive oil together.
3. Dampen the rusks. Spread a little of
the kopanisti or feta mixture on top
and garnish with a few pieces of
tomato. Serve immediately.

55 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Yellow Split Pea Puree with Mastic-Scented Olive Oil and
Grilled Octopus
Greeks call this mash of yellow split peas fava. It’s a staple on Greek meze menus
the world over. This rendition has a decidedly modern spin. It is flavored with
mastic, resinous crystals that have a distinct, pleasantly bitter, musk-like aroma.

For 25 small appetizers

200 gr. (1/2 pound) Greek dried yellow split peas
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 large carrot, whole
1 bay leaf
1 garlic clove
Salt and pepper to taste
2-3 drops mastic oil*
75 ml Greek extra-virgin olive oil
400 gr. (2 pounds) octopus (about 3 large tentacles)
25 slices whole wheat bread, cut into 4 cm (1.5 - inch) rounds

*Mastic oil is sold in Greek specialty food shops or available online at

www.themasticshop.com. If you can’t find it you can make it yourself by very gently heating
half a cup of Greek extra-virgin olive oil with 2-3 mastic crystals, which are available in Greek
and specialty food shops abroad. Strain and reserve the oil. Use as needed.

1. Light the grill or broiler to medium- 3. While the yellow split peas are sim- To serve: Spread a scant tablespoon of
high. Brush the grill rack with oil. mering, grill the octopus tentacles, the fava over the baked bread and
2. Rinse the yellow split peas in a turning. They will take about 20-25 place a piece of octopus on top.
colander. Place in a medium pot with minutes to grill. Remove and cut diag- Continue until all ingredients are used
enough water to cover by about 3 cm onally into very thin slices. up. Serve at room temperature.
(1.25 inches) and add the onion, car- 4. Brush the bread with olive oil on
rot, bay leaf, and garlic. Bring to a both sides and bake at 180C (375F) for
boil, reduce heat, and simmer, uncov- about 3-4 minutes, turning, until crisp
ered, until the split peas have and lightly browned.
absorbed all the water and are the
consistency of mashed potatoes.
Season with salt and pepper. Remove
from heat and transfer to a blender or
food processor. Process until very
smooth. Pour in the mastic oil and
olive oil and mix well.

56 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Sea Bass Marinated with Olive Oil and Lemon Juice

Yield: 4 meze servings

1 kilo (2 pounds) Greek farmed sea bass
600 ml extra-virgin olive oil
150 ml fresh lemon juice
Salt and pepper

1. Wash and fillet the bass into two
pieces per fish.
2. Whisk together the olive oil, lemon
juice, salt, and pepper.
3. Take each fillet and slice it into thin
strips. Toss gently with the marinade
and let the fish stand, covered, for two
hours. Serve. (Once the fish has been
marinated, you can store it in the
refrigerator for up to 4-5 days. Bring
down to room temperature before
serving.)

57 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Skewered Pistachio-Crusted Chicken

Yield: 15 pieces
For the pistachio crust
30 gr. (1 ounce) finely chopped onion
25 ml Greek extra-virgin olive oil
200 gr. (1/2 pound) Greek pistachio nuts, from the island of Aegina
25 gr. plain dried breadcrumbs
50 ml Limnos Muscat wine
1/2 bunch fresh tarragon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 chicken breasts, boned, skinned, and cut into medium cubes

2 fresh red Florina or bell peppers, diced the same size as the chicken
15 short wooden skewers or long toothpicks, soaked in water

1. Sauté the onion in a little olive oil

until softened. Add the Muscat and
simmer for one minute. Add all the
remaining ingredients for the crust.
Remove and transfer to a food proces-
sor or spice grinder and pulverize to a
coarse meal. If the mixture is too
loose, add more breadcrumbs.
2. Thread one chicken and red pepper
piece onto each of the long toothpicks
and turn in the pistachio mixture,
pressing, to coat. Grill under the sala-
mander or under the broiler for 4-5
minutes, until the chicken is cooked
and the crust lightly browned.
Remove and serve.

58 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Small Meatballs Served with Tomato-Olive Puree

Yield: 30 spoon-size portions

30 gr. (1 ounce) Greek glazed rice*
2-3 onions, sliced thin
Olive oil as needed
Cumin and dried thyme to taste
50 gr. (2 ounces) Greek graviera cheese, grated
300 gr. (10 ounces) ground pork
300 gr. (10 ounces) ground beef
2 bunches lemon verbena, finely chopped
Grated zest of 1 lemon
2 egg yolks
Flour as needed
2 ripe tomatoes, grated
200 gr. (7 ounces) Greek chickpea flour bread rusks (eptazymo),
broken into small pieces*
100 gr. (3 ounces) Greek green olives, pitted and chopped

* glazed rice, called glasé, and chickpea flour rusks are available in Greek food shops.

1. Boil the rice in ample water until

very soft. Strain. Sauté the onion
slices in 3 tablespoons olive oil.
Remove and puree in a food processor
together with the rice, cumin, thyme
and grated graviera. Combine this
mixture with the ground pork and
beef, the lemon verbena, the zest and
the egg yolks. Knead and set aside
covered in the refrigerator for one
hour.
2. Take a tablespoon at a time of the
mixture and shape into small meat-
balls. Lightly dredge in flour and fry in
olive oil.
3. Combine the grated tomatoes, rusks
and green olives. Serve each meatball
individually on a spoon, with a bit of
the tomato-rusk mixture on the spoon
as well. Or, place in a bowl, and spoon
the tomato-rusk mixture all around it.

59 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
It was nearly two decades ago, in a small, quaint shop on a side
street in Kolonaki, Athens’ chic residential center, that pastry
chef Stelios Parliaros first came into the limelight. Back then,
Greek sweets were, well, very sweet. Parliaros, French-trained
and with sugar in his genes—he comes from a family of pastry
chefs who emigrated from the Greek communities across the
Dardanelles, in what is today Turkey—literally took the gloss
(and glaze) off Greek desserts and started highlighting fresh,
seasonal fruits and local ingredients in his creations. His shop
was called Fresh. His fruit tarts became the coffee-time darlings
of Athens’ high society, and he went on from that small shop to

60 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
build a small empire, sell it, and concentrate on what he really
loves: writing, teaching and, of course, pastry making. His
boundless imagination set a new tone for Greek sweets. Single-
handedly, by incorporating traditional ingredients in nontradi-
tional desserts, he began a sweet revolution. His creations are
clearly Greek, but ultramodern. Among other things, his
desserts brim with the likes of olives and olive oil, tahini, citrus
fruits, Greek yogurt, unusual Greek spices such as mastic,
Greek honey, and more. His recipes, part of the Kerasma
archive of Greek treats, will be a steady feature in the
GreekGourmetraveler.

Kerasma:
Sweet Treats
by Stelios Parliaros
61 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Chocolate-Tahini Cream

Yield: 4 servings
150 gr. (5 oz.) Greek tahini (sesame paste)
50 ml Greek honey
40 ml Greek sesame oil
56 gr. (2 oz.) Couverture (60% - 70% cocoa),
melted in a double boiler
56 gr. (2 oz.) butter, softened

Combine the tahini, honey and

sesame oil, whisking together wekk,
either by hand or in an electricmixer
with a whisk attachment. Add the
melted chocolate and the butter. Mix
well, chill, covered, in individual bowls
for at least two hours, and serve.

62 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Olive Oil Cake Studded with Greek olives

Yield: One 24-cm (10-inch) round cake

75 ml PDO olive oil from Siteia, Crete
(or other Greek extra-virgin olive oil)
60 ml buttermilk
75 gr. (2.5 ounces) confectioner’s sugar
1 large egg (60-65 gr.)
100 gr. flour
3 gr. active dry yeast
Pinch of ground cloves
100 gr. (3 ounces) or about (10-12) pitted black or green olives,
very well soaked, desalted, and drained*
Sugar and fresh rosemary for garnish

1. In a large mixing bowl with a hand-
held whisk, mix together the olive oil,
buttermilk, sugar, and egg until
smooth.
2. Add the flour, yeast, and ground
cloves and mix well.
3. Preheat the oven to 165 C (325F)
Lightly oil a 24-cm (10-inch) round
baking pan and sprinkle the surface
with sugar and rosemary.
4. Pour in the batter, spreading it
evenly. Bake at 165C (325F) for about
30-35 minutes, until set or until a cake
tester inserted in the center comes out
clean.

63 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Green-Olive Spoon Sweet

Yield: About 2 cups

250 gr. (7 oz.) pitted Greek green olives, from Halkidiki
300 gr. (11 oz.) sugar
200 ml water
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Juice of 1 lemon
2-3 cardamom pods

1. Soak the olives in ample water for

24-48 hours, changing the water sev-
eral times. Drain, pat dry, and cut into
thin slices.
2. Bring the sugar and water to a boil
and simmer for five minutes. Add the
olives to the syrup. Lower the heat
and add the zest, lemon juice, and car-
damom. Simmer until it reaches 102C
(215F). Remove, cool, and place in jars.

64 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Greek Yogurt and Honey Mousse

Yield: 6-8 servings

400 gr. (about 2 cups) Greek strained yogurt
200 ml Greek thyme honey
200 ml heavy cream
3 large egg whites
1 vanilla pod, cut lengthwise in half
10 gr. (1/3 ounce) gelatin, in sheet form

1. Place the cream, honey, and split

vanilla bean into a small saucepan
and heat over low-medium heat until
the honey dissolves. Remove before
the mixture boils.
2. As the cream is heating, soften the
gelatin in a little cold water (enough
to cover it).
3. Add the softened gelatin to the
cream mixture, mix, and set aside to
cool slightly. When the mixture is
tepid, add the yogurt.
4. Beat the egg whites to a stiff
meringue. Fold into the cream and
yogurt mixture. Transfer to a large
serving bowl or to individual bowls,
cover with plastic wrap and refriger-
ate for several hours to set.
Serve with fresh fruit and, if possible,
a wedge of honeycomb.

65 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
GREEK GOURMET.TEL 7/12/05 7:39 PM Page 66

In the next issue…

Greek Yogurt
Greek Honey
Greek Olives
Chios Mastic
And more…

66 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
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C M Y CM MY CY CMY K

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