Spreading and Cutting

Of Apparel Products

Reference Material

Prabir Jana
Associate Professor
Garment Manufacturing Technology Department
National Institute of Fashion Technology

New Delhi Calcutta Hyderabad Chennai Mumbai Gandhinagar

Bangalore
Spreading and Cutting of Apparel Products 1

Spreading and Marker Making parameters are basically the important functions and check points need to be
considered during spreading and marker making process in cutting room.

Spreading Parameters

1. Spreading table surface should be smooth enough to facilitate movement of cutting machine
2. Cutting table should have height adjustments so that you can adjust the table modules according to slope in the
floor.
3. Before spreading fabric rolls should be segregated based on the colour shade and fabric width
4. Based on the fabric classification decide in spreading mode.
5. Based on the fabric type, marker length and end cutting equipment, you have to determine the end loss, which
will determine the lay length. Total ply length is marked on the table before start of laying.
6. Fabric ply tension has to be correct, it should neither be too tight nor too loose.
7. Fabric should be correctly checked before it come on the spreading table.
8. Spreading height should be compatible to the cutting machine blade.
9. Ensure that the layer ends are as even as possible.
10. In between different rolls put indication flag to identify different rolls.
11. Lay lot planning to optimise cutting cost
12. For dimensionally unstable flimsy fabrics a layer of marker paper should be laid before putting the first ply.
During laying the first ply, either all the sides or some portions are stuck to the table using tapes so that the first
layer does not slip. During cutting the tapes are taken out.
13. Always one side of the selvage has to be aligned (all selvages have to be one or top of each other)
14. End pieces should be marked with lay no. and stored for changing any rejected component of the garment in
subsequent process.
15. Use paper in between plies at regular intervals to reduce interply slippage
16. Bigger the roll length lesser the wastage. While using spreading machine bigger the roll length, lesser the
machine idle time.
17. While using splicing technique, please ensure that number of plies at both end of the lay is equal.
18. For horizontal stripe in knitted fabric open width marker making should be preferred.
19. For fabrics with high twisted yarn tearing is preferred than end cutting during laying.

Marking Making Parameters

1. Wider the width of fabric, better the consumption

2. Arrange bigger patterns first
3. Open width of knits gives better consumption for maximum styles.
4. Effective width is width the area can really be used without the selvedge.
5. Grain line should always be followed
6. Table length is a limitation.
7. Follow the pattern checklist.
8. Colour variation has to be taken into account while sorting fabric rolls (centre-selvedge colour variation).
9. Keeping in mind roll length available we can calculate effectively the lay length for more effective utilisation
of fabric.
10. Block cutting is followed for embroidery purpose, and for check matching.
11. Cutting cuffs length-wise on fold is also being followed factories to maximum utilisation.
12. Fabric type decides the marker mode.
13. Extra area created at pattern edges based on stickering (stamping) procedure to be followed.
14. Enlarged pattern blocks in marker for embroidery.
15. Cutting equipment may influence the space between patterns.
16. Patterns arrangement in marker should depend on centre-to-selvedge or selvedge-to-selvedge colour variation,
if any.

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Spreading and Cutting of Apparel Products
Comparison between Make Through and Assembly Line Sewing System:
Make Through
1. All operations are being done by one
machine /one person
2. No Scope of special machine or
attachments
3. In make through there is no standardisation
in production. There is no consistency in
quality.
4. Generally piece rate salary structure
5. Pride of work lots of chances to get the
popularity
6. No WIP i.e. work in process in make
through
7. High and low quantity of order, both are
welcome.
8. No problem of Absenteeism
9. Easy to establish labour cost
10. This process requires much handling time
11. Less supervision cost.
12. Difficult to Identify errors.
13.Its a work of creativity person enjoys while
working
14. Less chance of duplication of error if not
supervised
15. In this process, there is no possibility to
improve the productivity
16.Plant & machinery cost is less
17. Non-repetitive job, No RSI
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2
Assembly Line
1. Different operators are doing different
operations.
2. Lots of scope of special machines, attachments &
work aids
3. In assembly ‘line, there is standardization in
production and also consistency in quality.
4. Generally monthly paid salary structure.
5. No pride of work no chance to get the popularity
6. WIP i.e. work in process is higher in assembly
line specially in line system.
7. Only huge quantity of order are preferred
8. Absenteeism is a very big problem in assembly
line
9. Its difficult to establish labour cost.
10. Less handling time is required
11.More supervision cost.
12.Easy to identify errors.
13. No creativity in work. All monotonous work is
to be done
14. More chance of duplication of error if not
supervised.
15. In this there is chances to improve the
productivity
16. Plant & Machinery cost is higher
17. Repetitive, job, Risk of RSI
Spreading and Cutting of Apparel Products 3

Fusing Technology
1. What is Fusing?

Fusing is the process of fixing a fusible interlining to the outer fabric by application heat & pressure. In this process
the interlining & outer fabric composite is heated up to a specified temperature; as recommended by the
manufacturer (depending upon the melting point of adhesive used in the coating). After few seconds when the
adhesive becomes plastic, then it is forced inside the fabric texture by using pressure. After fusing is complete, the
composite has to be gradually cooled down to convert the plastic adhesive into its original solid state to form a
strong bonding.

1.2. Why Fusing?

Fusing is done to achieve any one or multiple of the following objectives in a garment or made ups:

• Improve dimensional stability & shape retention / crease recovery property of outer fabric
• Improve aesthetic value, appearance and handle of fused part.
• Value addition to the garment
• Reduce stitch puckering & increase seam strength.
• Valuable aid in production for eliminating some stitching operation & better reliability of reproducing
consistent good quality.
• Increased ease of handling, faster & better production.

2. The methods and components of fusing

The technology of the fusing process demands a specific combination of the following parameters:
I the fusing methods;
II the fusing machine; and
III the components of fusing.

2.1. Fusing Method:

The relationship between the top-cloth and the fusible influences the fusing conditions, and it is essential that the
press can achieve the correct combination for the particular method employed. The most widely used methods are
described in terms of the assembly of the cloth and fusible components prior to fusing (see fig 2.1.A), as given
below:
• Single Fusing: The fusible is positioned on top of the cloth.
• Reverse Fusing: The cloth is positioned on top of the fusible.
• Sandwich Fusing: Here, two components are fused in one operation, typically with the cloth on the outside and
the two fusibles in the middle.
• Double Fusing: This consists of fusing two fusibles, positioned one on top of the other, to the top-cloth in one
operation, for example, fusing the front and chest-piece fusible to the fore part of a jacket or coat.
2.2. Fusing Machines: The mechanical medium required for fusing is the fusing press. Presses basically fall into
two categories, with different modes of operation. The assemblies are either fused on discontinuous systems or on
continuous conveyor type systems.
2.2.1. Discontinuous Systems:

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Hand Iron: This system effects fusing by placing a hand iron on top of the assembly to be fused (interlining
uppermost) which is supported by an ironing table. Certain interlinings, especially those that can be fused at
comparatively low temperatures, low pressure and short times, may be suitable for fusing by hand iron.
Compared with a fusing press the hand iron has several disadvantages-
• Temperature control and distribution over the heated surface is poor and temperature difference can be large.
• Due to the lightweight and small surface area of the iron and the iron and the hand-applied pressure, it is
impossible to measure and apply pressure uniformly.
• Time has to be controlled manually.

Flat bed Fusing Machine: These systems effect fusing by placing the assembly to be fused on metal plates, one or
both of which can be heated. In a typical flat bed press the upper plate is electrically heated and unpadded, whereas
the bottom platen is unheated and padded with a resilient cover of wool, felt or silicone. Top and bottom bucks can
be covered with a PTFE (Poly Tetra Fluoro Ethylene) cover to prevent staining, adhesive build up, adhesion of
garment parts to the buck and assist in maintaining a clean surface. Heat is provided by an electric heater element
embedded in the pressure plate. The heating element must be such that an accurate and uniform distribution of the
temperature is obtained over the plate surface. Closing the plates provides pressure together by pneumatic,
mechanical or hydraulic means. Pressure must be applied accurately and uniformly and it is important that the
pressure system is free from possible distortion, either from mechanical effects or by heat. The upper and lower
plates must join perfectly together when pressure is applied. There are three basic types of flat bed fusing machine
namely scissor action, vertical action, scissor & scissor action. (See picture 2.2.1.A, 2.2.1.B and 2.2.1.C)

Scissor Action [Picture 2.2.1.A] Vertical Action [Picture 2.2.1.B]

Combined Vertical/Scissor Action [Picture 2.2.1.C]

An automatic timer is generally provided which controls the pressing cycle. In some cases the opening and closing
time is also included in the cycle. An improvement in flat bed presses is the tray system where,
• the assemblies are either made up on the press tray or brought to the tray pre-prepared.

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Spreading and Cutting of Apparel Products 5

• the tray is then pushed or powered to its fussing position.

• when the fusing cycle is completed, the tray can be manually removed or automatically rejected.
Flat bed presses with twin-tray systems are considerably more productive than those with single-tray systems
because the time lag caused by waiting for the fusing cycle to end is considerably reduced. The main advantage of
the twin-tray system is that, while one tray is being fused, the other can be stripped and loaded. Another type of flat
bed press is incorporated into carousal by using three trays that successively move through the loading, fusing, and
cooling stations.
2.2.2. Continuous Systems:
These fusing machines are all based on the same principle, hereby the unit for fusing is transported through the
fusing processes by means of a powered conveyor belt. There are two systems in general use, return feed and end-
to-end feed.

Heating Mechanism: The heating systems generally used for continuous fusing presses are as follows:
• Heating plates: These consist of two heating surfaces, positioned apart, with one above the conveyor belt and
one below the conveyor belt. The surfaces are slightly arched so as to intensify the heat diffusion. The lower
heating surface is usually longer than the upper, and, in relation to the conveyor direction, the lower heat source
is positioned after the higher one. Both panels can be separately controlled, which enables any temperature
profiles to be achieved. There can be series of upper and lower heaters, which can create different heat zones.
• Cylinder heating: The cylinder consists of two parts, the inner cylinder, a stationary assembly in which the
heating element are mounted; the outer cylinder, which rotates around the inner cylinder. This principle
ensures that the heat generated by the inner core is evenly distributed all over the cylinder mantle. Since
approximately half of the cylinder-mantle surface area is in the actual heating zone at any given moment, the
remaining area regains the heat lost through transference. These types of machines generally have a pre-heating
device located under the lower conveyor belt, between the entry zone and cylinder.

Pressure: With the drum/belt presses, minimal pressure is applied continuously from the point of entry by the belt
tension against the drum or between two conveyors. Thus pressure is applied at all times during the heating up
process until the assembly leaves the press. This minimal pressure is necessary to avoid slippage between
interlining and upper fabric. Adequate control of the belt tension across the width is essential to ensure even
pressure. With conveyor type presses the actual pressure is applied by rollers to the previously heated assembly, at
the outlet of the press. Since pressure is applied as a line pressure at the contact of the two rollers, the time is very
small compared with flat bed presses and thus the pressures required are different and the pressing can be more
critical.

Time Mechanism: Fusing time depends on the speed on the conveyor belt, the faster the belt runs, the shorter the
time. All machines have a belt speed controller which can be adjusted to give various dwell times in the heated
zone.

Return feed:
This conveyor system is, in effect, one upper and one lower drum surface, where the drum is the actual conveyor of
the cloth and fusibles. The function of the upper or cover belt is to ensure that both cloth and fusibles are held
accurately in the correct positions while being transported through the fusing processes. While the drum is

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positively driven, the speed of both (the drum and the conveyor) must be synchronised in order to prevent the
compression or extension of the materials. (see picture 2.2.2.A)

Picture 2.2.2.A
[Line diagram of drum continuous fusing machine, Here the feed is from below and fused components collected
above]

Belt Cleaner: Continuously cleans the belt from adhesive contamination

Belt wrapping prevention device: Adjust belt tension and avoids belts from wrapping.
Pressure Roller: Apply actual pressure at roller nip point.
Rotary strip-off device: After fusing the fused composites tends to stick to the drum, this device strips of the fused
composites from the drum.
Drum cleaner: Continuously cleans the drum from adhesive contamination
Teflon Belt: Woven belt made out of Kevlar fibre, coated with teflon.

Drum continuous fusing machine: Salient features:

• Completely closed chamber, no heat loss.
• Gradual heating not available, chances of heat shock1
• No compensating heater, thickness variation of interlining composites may result unsatisfactory fusing.
• Comparatively cheaper (than flat continuous fusing machine)
• The interlining composite travels through the fusing zone, the travel path is not horizontal rather curve, so there
are chances of distortion during travel.
• The interlining composite travels through the fusing zone, chances of distortion during feeding

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Spreading and Cutting of Apparel Products 7

End-to-end feed:
The parts are conveyed from the loading area at one end of the machine, via the fusing area, to the take-off area at
the opposite end of the machine. This system is used where production levels require continuous loading and
feeding on the parts of the operators. (see fig 2.2.2.B and 2.2.2.C)

Picture 2.2.2.B [Flat continuous fusing with simple heating]

Picture 2.2.2.C [Flat continuous fusing with gradual zonal heating]

Retained heat zone and control zones help to raise the temperature gradually, thus preventing the possibility of heat
shock to certain fabrics.
Flat continuous fusing machine: Salient features:
• Completely closed chamber, no heat loss.
• Horizontal fusing area, no distortion of unstable fabics
• Gradual heating of composite, no heat shock1
• Compensating heater can accommodate varying thickness of composite.

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• Costliest fusing mechanism.

• The interlining composite travels through the fusing zone, chances of distortion during feeding
• Rubberised top pressure roller ensures better and area of contact.

2.3. Importance of Process Parameters in Fusing:

There are three important parameters of fusing, temperature, pressure and time. Satisfactory fusing depends on the
correct application of these parameters irrespective of the type of fusible being used. These factors are required in
certain limited combinations and must be adequately controllable. The three basic requirements are explained
below:

2.3.1. Temperature:

Fusible interlinings are coated with specially formulated thermoplastic adhesives of various types, e.g. either LDPE
or HDPE. Each type has its own individual characteristics but generally speaking the adhesive must be heated to a
point within a minimum and maximum temperature to ensure optimum performance. For a good quality fusible
interlining the glue-line temperature is generally mentioned. If this temperature is not reached fusing will not take
place and if it is exceeded problems of strike back, adhesive migration and low bond strength can be experienced. It
is the temperature at the adhesive layer that is critical, i.e. the “Interface Temperature” or “glue-line temperature”. It
is important that in every fusing operation the fusible achieves this temperature. It is possible to take measurements
of the glue-line temperature but it is more common to use the dial temperature and by experience adjust this to
obtain the necessary temperature at the interface. The temperature setting on the press is normally kept 10-150
higher than the glue line temperature specified to account for loss of heat in transfer & ensure correct melting pt of
adhesive. Normally temperature is automatically controlled by reliable / efficient thermostats within ± 3% - 5%
range.
Temperature should neither be so high as to affect the tone, handle & strength of the outer fabric. The effect of
higher temperature is very detrimental in leather, silk & woollen fabric.

Causes of uneven temperature:

Uneven temperature in a press may not be solely due to the quality of the thermostats fitted. Two other factors that
influence temperature are:
• The type of heating elements used and their position in the heated areas of the press.
• In flat-bed presses the very opening and closing of the press allows hot air to escape and cold air to enter
resulting heat loss. Even in continuous fusing presses where this heat loss is much less, some still occurs.
2.3.2. Time:
The function of this time element is to compensate for the delay in the transmission of heat from the source to the
fusible agent. It is simply the time duration the composite should be exposed to heat. This time component relates
to
• The time when the two plates of the press actually meet with the correct specific pressure, or the time for which
the assemblies are actually in the heating zone if a continuous machine is employed.
• The type of interlining being used i.e. whether it has a low or high melt adhesive system, or if it has a light or
heavy weight substrate.
• The type of application for which the fusible is to be used - i.e. small or large areas in a garment.
• The nature of the shell fabric(s) being fused.

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• The type of fusing equipment employed.

The actual fusing time can be controlled by the use of electro-mechanical timing devices or programmed card units.
Generally, a flat-bed press has a mechanical timer that runs to the zero point and then signals an impulse, which
activates the mechanism for opening the press. With continuous fusing, it is possible to relate conveyor speeds to
the actual time in the heating zone. The particular time cycle used should depend on four things:

2.3.3. Pressure:

It is necessary to apply pressure to the parts being fused to ensure;

• Intimate contact is effected between the fusible interlining and the shell fabric.
• Adequate heat transfer takes place
• Controlled even penetration of the adhesive into the fibers of the shell fabric.
Pressure is normally applied via plates/bucks. The energy to do this is normally supplied by pneumatic, hydraulic
or manual sources and transferred to the pressure surfaces by means of cylinders or mechanical linkages. For a
good quality fusible interlining the required pressure to be applied is generally mentioned.

Depending upon the viscons / flow property of glue the pressure is recommended. Pressure is applied in fusing
press mechanically or pneumatically. It is also decide by the structure / surface property of other fabric.

2.4. Sequence of process parameters for correct fusing process:

Satisfactory fusing depends on the application of three basic parameters in correct sequence – Temperature,
Pressure & Time. All these parameters are required in certain limited combinations & should be adequately
controlled.

First heat should be applied for certain time to raise the temperature of interlining-fabric composite to glue-line
temperature and then the pressure is applied to enable the adhesive dots of interlining penetrate the base fabric.
Heat and pressure should not be applied together as this may result flattening of adhesive dots, resulting
unnecessary stiffness in the fused fabric due to increasing area of contact (fusing area) between fabric and
interlining. Flattening of adhesive dots also result less penetration of adhesive onto the base fabric thus reduced
peel-bond strength.

Heat Shock

When the interlining-fabric composite enters the fusing zone then the composite is suddenly subjected to very high
temperature, i.e. from room temperature to almost 1400c. This sudden change of temperature (heat shock) harms
certain fabrics like viscose etc. This heat shock does not result any visual or immediate damage to fabric composite,
but make the fibre brittle and may even change the texture of fabric.

Interlining

An interlining is a material (substrate) onto which the thermoplastic resin is coated, sprayed, or printed. Substrates
can be produced in a variety of woven, knitted, and nonwoven forms, each type having a specific application,
according to the planned end-use. The base cloth influences the following characteristics in the finished garment:

a) handle and bulk

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b) shape retention
c) shrinkage control
d) crease-recovery
e) appearance in wear
f) appearance after dry-cleaning or washing
g) durability

Glue Line Temperature

While talking about melting point temperature in fusing we always mention about glueline temperature. This is the
temperature which is the minimum threshold range required for melting the glue (based on the melting point of the
adhesive). It is therefore the temperature existing at the interface of outer fabric & interlining i.e. contact point of
glue & outer fabric. It is checked by using a thermopaper strip. These are chemically coated paper. Which are heat
sensitive & displays colour range by change of colour.

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Spreading and Cutting of Apparel Products 11

Lay Lot Planning to Optimise Cutting Cost

After the fabric is received in fabric store, checked for irregularities and ready for cutting, cutting department need
to work out a plan (defined as lay lot plan) to spread and cut the order as per requirement while keeping the cost
optimum. The factors (parameters) which determine the lay lot plan are :

1. Order quantity, the break up of quantity colourwise and sizewise.

Small Medium Large

Red 100 150 50
Blue 200 300 100
Green 300 450 100

2. Marker making, based on style, pattern components, and given width of fabric appropriate marker combination
need to be decided, i.e. how many of what size should be combined in a marker. As example how many of
Large sizes can be fitted in one marker or can a Large size be combined with Medium size etc.

3. Marker making, based on size ratio, How many different types of marker combination to be used to complete
the order quantity. As example for above order quantity marker combination can be

2S-3M-L (six garment marker)

If due to any (or combination of both) of the above two reasons the maximum no. of garments that can be
combined in a marker is three, then the marker combination for above example can be

2S-L and 3M or
S-M-L and S-2M or
S-2M and S-M-L etc.

4. Maximum number of garments can be accommodated in one marker. We generally combine multiple sizes in
one marker for better utilisation of fabrics and number of garments in one marker should be restricted to that

100%
90%
80%
Marker efficiency

70%
60%
50%
40%
30%
20%
10%
0%
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
N o .o f g a rm e n ts in o n e m a rke r

number unless we gain other benefits. From above graph we can see that for a given style, marker efficiency
increases gradually from 70% to 90%, as we move from 1 garment to 5-garment marker. But beyond 5-garment
efficiency does not increase, so for this given style we should go up to 5-garment marker.

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5. Table Length, Number of garments that can be combined in a marker also depends on table length available for
spreading.

6. Maximum no.of layers: The fabric (thickness and type) and the blade length of cutting machine is the deciding
parameters for the maximum no. of layers that can be layed and cut.

7. Multiple colours can be spread and cut:

Fabrics of different colours can be spread together, e.g. in lay1 in the following example first 33 layers of red
and then 33 layers of green is spread and then cut using a 2S-L marker. This is done generally for solid dyed
fabrics.

An example of a Lay lot planning exercise:

You have received an order of blouse as under.

Small Medium Large

Red 66 100 33
Blue 200 300 100
Green 132 200 66

• You can cut maximum 75 layers at a time

• You can use maximum 3-way maker (any size combination)
• You can cut multiple colours together

Show step by step cutting plan to cut the order in minimum no. of lays.
Answer:
Lay1 Marker 2S - L Small Medium Large
33 layer of Red Red 0 100 0
33 layers of Green balance⇒ Blue 200 300 100
Green 66 200 33

Lay2 Marker 2S - L Small Medium Large

33 layers of green balance⇒ Red 0 100 0
25 layers of blue Blue 150 300 75
Green 0 200 0

Lay3 Marker 2S - L Small Medium Large

75 layers of blue balance⇒ Red 0 100 0
Blue 0 300 0
Green 0 200 0
Lay4 Marker 3M Small Medium Large
75 layers of Blue balance⇒ Red 0 100 0
Blue 0 75 0
Green 0 200 0

Lay5 Marker 3M Small Medium Large

25 layers of Blue balance⇒ Red 0 100 0

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50 layers of green Blue 0 0 0

Green 0 50 0

Lay6 Marker 3M Small Medium Large

34 layers of red balance⇒ Red 0 +2 0
17 layers of green Blue 0 0 0
Green 0 +1 0

While executing an actual lay lot plan in factories, whole lot of other practical constraints arises from time to time.
Ultimate aim for a business enterprise is to optimise the total cost in cutting department, rather minimising cost of
different element separately. Following are examples of different priorities under given constraints.

Priorities:

1. Maximum utilisation of fabric rolls: Generally the target is to keep minimum end bits from rolls. But if the
fabric is defective we try to keep certain amount of end bits rather to utilise maximum. These end bits later
utilised for part replacement of defective components.
2. To spread and cut sizewise: For fabrics with multiple shades and ratio packing requirement we need to spread
and cut always sizewise. Otherwise shade variation between sizes will occur.
3. To minimise spreading time: Try to use longer marker as far as possible
4. To minimise cutting time : Try to use maximum lay height as far as possible.
5. To minimise end loss: Try to utilise longer lay (or stepped lay) as far as possible

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