National Identity in Fashion.

“Westernizing ideals and what had come before, then shows how today's Islamists are trying "to maintain an
identity separate from that of the dominant West." In other words, rather than see Islamists as products of
failed economies, she shows the acutely important cultural dimension of their effort. To illustrate these points,
she looks in more depth at the question of the body, especially the female body, and contrasts the Western
notions of care and exposure with the thoroughly different Islamic concepts. Göle concludes by noting the
paradox of Islamic pop music and fashion shows—two signs indicating the ubiquity of Western modernity.”
A quote from http://www.meforum.org/1208/rethinking-modernity-and-national-identity-in>

Under relentless globalisation and an influx of expats, Emiratis warn they are at a cultural, social and religious
crossroads and desperately need a stronger "national identity" to guide them through the next stage of a
young country’s evolution.
National identity – or lack of it – is the newly-emerging touchstone for Emiratis who spoke out over two days in
the capital against the growing expatriate population, waning interest in the Arabic language, and the daily
assault by modern trends upon long-held Islamic Arabic religious beliefs and tradition. Source:
<http://www.xpress4me.com/news/uae/national/20006968.html>

Summary:
Based on these paragraphs I have read, I would like to explore on the issue of national identity amongst
youth in the Middle East. For example, there were issues with the exposure of global trends and
westernisations, which cause Arabic language (a very important part of Islamic culture) appears to be going out
of fashion with younger Emiratis who believe speaking English mirrors fast-paced economic development in
the country.

I would like to do case studies of 2 Middle Eastern designers that have presented their collections in
Paris Fashion. The designers are Elie Saab, and Rabia Z. Though the two designers have different niche market
and concept in their designs, they took pride of their nationality, especially with the ongoing conflicts and
chaos that happen in Arab world. Islamic culture has always been one of their design approaches of their
collection.

A network organisation called Fashion United did an interview with Elie Saab regarding the importance
of Lebanon as his roots as a designer and source of inspiration. “
Elie replied:” It is a great source of inspiration and energy for me and because it is my hometown I feel there at
my best. The culture is very rich, its geography and sites are amazing, the weather and the fashion sense of the
people around. Everything is in place to keep my creative skills alive!”
Which suggest that he takes pride in being a Lebanese.

Rabia Zargarpurn, is an Emirati-Afghani who designs clothing that is geared towards Muslim women
th
wearing the hijab. She received good response after showing her collection on 6 April 2009 during the first
ever all-Arab fashion event staged at the InterContinental Hotel in Park Lane,London.
Her understanding of fashion is rooted in the Arabic identity but is also of international standards. Her outlook
is local, regional, global, but it never loses its personal touch."She quoted in an interview: "It would be nice to
have a designer label from our own culture and heritage," she said. "I hope that my label will be available
worldwide and just as accessible as the other brands. I want it to be easily available to all Muslim women
around the world."

I Have yet to find the right question, however, so far I would hope to be able to find something when I
research more on national identity , Some books that I will be reading are:

- Encyclopedia of clothing and fashion. – Chapter name : “Ethnic Style in Fashion” pg 417,418
- The Japanese Revolution in Paris fashion ( for some clues on Elie Saab’s culture influence)
- And some written articles regarding fashion and identity

Some of the keywords I would like to search:

Identity, Secularism, westernisation, fashion statements, Symbolism of Islamic faith, Cultural values and
aesthetics.