Cavy Galore Guinea Guide

A Simple guide to help you provide the best life for your furry friend
Brought to you by: Cavy Galore
www.cavygalore.proboards.com

Index
The Basics of Guinea Pig Care------------------------------------------------------------Pg. 2-10

Diet..............Pg. 2-5

Housing.........Pg. 5-7

Quarantine.....Pg. 7-8

Health...........Pg. 8-9

Handling........Pg. 9-10

Harmful Products-------------------------------------------------------------------------Pg. 10-12

Guinea Pig FAQ’s-------------------------------------------------------------------------Pg. 13-14

“Why Adopt?”----------------------------------------------------------------------------Pg. 14-18

Health 101-------------------------------------------------------------------------------Pg. 18-20

Living Indoors---------------------------------------------------------------------------Pg. 20-21

1
 The Basics of Guinea Pig Care
Written By: Baby’s Mom of Cavy Galore

Some basic things that guinea pigs need are very important. These basic needs are
what keep all guinea pigs happy and healthy. Such needs are easy to fulfill and provide a
comfortable life for your guinea pig.

Basic needs include:

- Your guinea pigs' diet--A well balanced diet is made up of four parts.
- A comfortable home for your friend
- Healthy living
- General Happiness

Let’s go a bit more in depth, shall we?

Diet
As previously mentioned, a guinea pigs diet consists of four vital parts and we will be
touching upon each one.

 Pellets
o To feed adult guinea pigs, you
should give them a hay-based
pellet like "Oxbow's Cavy Cuisine,”
for example. Please keep in mind
that adult guinea pigs are
considered any pig one year of age
or greater.
o For young guinea pigs that are
under 1 year old, and for pregnant
pigs as well, a pellet that has both
alfalfa and hay should be provided.
For example, "Oxbow's Cavy
Performance" is highly recommended.
o Amount: Every pig is different, but most eat about 1/8 cup of pellets
per pig/per day.
 Buying pellets in small quantities is a good idea because after a
limited time the strength of the vitamin C is no longer effective.
Your pellets are now no longer useful once this takes place.

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 o Remember that guinea pigs, much like humans, cannot produce their
own vitamin C. Because of this, guinea pigs need to be supplied with a
vitamin C enriched pellet.

Please remember: Guinea Pigs should not eat nuts, colored bits or seeds. They
can easily choke on them. Therefore, your pellet food should not contain any nuts, seeds,
colored bits, corn products, or animal products.

 Hay
o Grass hay is best for adult guinea pigs.
Some examples are: Timothy hay,
Orchard Grass and Blue Grass.
o Alfalfa hay mixed with grass hay is
better for young or pregnant guinea
pigs. Do not feed to a pig older than 1
year old, as it can cause bladder or
kidney stones as well as other
complications due to the increase in
calcium.
o Remember that all guinea pigs,
regardless of age, need to be supplied
with grass hay.
o A constant supply of hay is required and helps to prevent teeth over
growth due to repetitive chewing.

Part of your guinea pigs' diet should also be fruits, vegetables, and other forages.
Canned, frozen, and cooked vegetables are not the best source of vitamins, and nutrients.
They contain too much salt, sugar, and preservatives. The best source for proper nutrition is
fresh, raw vegetables.

 Vegetables
o Fresh, raw vegetables are always best. Look for vegetables such as:
 Leafy Greens (a stable in many pigs diets—Can be fed daily)
 Romaine
 Butterhead
 Green Leaf
 Red Leaf
 Swiss Chard
 AVOID Iceberg lettuce! It is far too moist and contains
no nutritional value.

 Herbs
 Cilantro—Can be fed daily
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  Parsley—Fed occasional due to calcium content
 Dill—Fed occasionally

 Occasional foods
 Yellow bell peppers ( Yellow bell peppers, unlike red and
green which can also be fed, have a higher sugar
content)
 Carrots (One baby carrot per day is sufficient)
 Grape (should be fed only occasionally due to sugar
content)
 Blueberries
 Kale (feed sparingly—can cause intestinal upset)
 Cherry tomatoes (High acid content can cause mouth
sores)
 Apple (high sugar content—Remove core and seeds.
Core is poisonous!)
 Pears (High sugar content—remove core/seeds)
 Oranges (Can cause mouth sores due to acid content)
 Yams (NEVER feed potatoes such as Idaho—“eyes” of
Idaho and similar potatoes are poisonous!)
 Cucumber (can cause runny stool from excess moisture)

 Guinea pig feeding Don’ts

 Please do not give your guinea pig any treats that were
bought from a pet store. They are marketed for guinea
pigs, but they are not a good source of healthy foods.
 Guinea pigs do not eat milk products such as, milk, or
eggs. They also do not eat animal products such as,
hamburger, or steak. They eat strictly plants.
 Do not use mineral wheels/ salt licks. Guinea pigs have
no need for these extra minerals.
 Do not mix anything into a guinea pigs water. This can
alter the waters taste and prevent the pig from drinking
in general.

To maintain a healthy diet, guinea pigs should eat at least 1 cup of fresh, raw
vegetables per day/per pig. It would also be a good idea to divide this amount into 2 or 3
smaller meals, instead of one large meal. For a complete list of fruits, vegetables, and other
forages, go to www.guineapigcages.comand look under the diet, and nutrition section or
www.guinealynx.com/diet.html

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  Water
o Some guinea pigs use a water
bottle to drink from, while others
use a water bowl, depending on
what you and your pigs like best.
o All guinea pigs need fresh water day
and night. Changing their water
every day means that your pig will
always have fresh water to drink.
o Never put vitamin C supplements,
or medicine in your guinea pigs
water. Your guinea pig may not get
the correct dosage. It may also distaste the water and, in turn, cause
your pig to stop drinking the water. Always give medicine and vitamin
C supplements through a small syringe.

Housing

There are only three simple parts to providing your guinea pig with a comfortable
home to reside in. We will discuss these components below.

 Cubes and Coroplast Cages

o Cubes and Coroplast cages offer your guinea pig lots of space to run
around. It is always best to have their cage inside where they are safe.
Having their cage outside poses many dangers to your guinea pig. Some
dangers are:
 Guinea pigs need a consistent temperature between 70-80F
because they cannot handle extreme weather conditions. The rapid
change in weather conditions can cause an outside dwelling pig to
become very ill.
 Other animals such as dogs, cats, or foxes could possibly find a
way to get into your pig's outdoor cage. Obviously, this would be
very harmful for your pig.
 Guinea pigs get sick very fast. If you have them with you inside
your house, you will notice a sick guinea pig far faster than you
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 would with an outdoor pig. This speedy observation could mean the
difference between life and death for your furry friend.
 Outdoor guinea pigs tend to receive less attention. As the old
saying goes, “out of sight; out of mind.”
o Never house a guinea pig with any other species of animal, including
rabbits. Guinea pigs can easily catch deadly diseases carried by rabbits
and their strength alone is enough to kill a pig with one swift kick.
o Components of a Cubes and Coroplast Cage are:
 Coroplast, or corrugated plastic which can often be bought at sign
shops, provides for a large, sturdy, and easy to clean cage base.
Many sign shops will be happy to accommodate you and even
order special colors of corrugated plastic.
 Storage cubes make the walls of the cage and can be customized
to create any size and shape of cage. They also come in various
colors and can be purchased online at www.walmart.com or in
stores at Target.
 When purchasing storage cube grids, make sure you are
purchasing grids that have 9 inner cubes by 9 inner cubes.
Any larger size inner cube can result in your guinea
pig getting its head stuck in the opening. Please do not
be afraid to open the box and look!
 Zip Ties/Cable ties are very handy and can be used to attach all of
the grids together. They also can be used to reinforce cage walls
and provide for an even sturdier cage.
 Packing Tape is used to construct the cage base as well as scissors
or an Exacto knife, a ruler and patience. Be sure to place the
packing tape on the outside of the base because some pigs do
enjoy chewing on it.
 If you have a very small pig or a baby pig, baby proofing your cage
is a must! This can be very easily done by zip tying two grids
together to form smaller squares, using scrap cardboard or
coroplast to create high walls, or fastening fleece up the walls of
the cage. For information on baby proofing, please visit
http://www.guineapigcages.com/photos/showgallery.php/cat/532
 If you have other pets and would like to prevent your cage from
having an open top, wire shelving is a great solution. For
information about cage safety, please visit:
http://www.guineapigcages.com/photos/showgallery.php/cat/508
 For alternate cage ideas, additional information and cage size
recommendations, please visit www.guineapigcages.com.

 Bedding
o Carefresh or Critter Care
 Recycled paper bedding
 Can be somewhat doesn’t and is not
recommended for pigs with allergies.
 Somewhat expensive
 Be sure to use 1-2 inches on the bottom of
your cage
o Kiln Dried Aspen or Kiln Dried Pine
 Easily available
 Low cost
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  Not for allergy sufferers
 Be sure to use 1-2 inches on the bottom of
your cage
 Always buy kiln dried
o Towels and Fleece
 With a layer of towels, and a layer of fleece
over top, this makes a soft, re-usable bedding
that guinea pigs love.
 Wash the fleece 3 times (without any kind of
fabric softener) before use.
 Economical
 Reusable/ easy to clean
o Do not use!
 Sawdust (can cause upper respiratory infections/ choking hazard)
 Cat litter ( can cause upper respiratory infections/ dusty/ choking
hazard)
 Cedar or raw pine shavings (These give a strong odor that can cause
guinea pigs to have respiratory problems.)

 Maintenance
o Daily spot clean--vacuum, or sweep the poop
-change heavily soiled areas.
 Heavy duty hand vacuums work well for this
job.
 Replace any leftover food
 Refill water and food if needed
o Weekly Clean--A complete clean should be done once,
or twice a week. Strip everything in the cage. Wash
bottom of cage and bowls with a solution of vinegar
and water.
o For more information, please visit:
www.guinealynx.com

Quarantine

It is best to quarantine any new guinea pig that is brought to your home as well as
any guinea pig that becomes sick. Illnesses and parasites like to transfer themselves from
one pig to another. By keeping your guinea pig separate from any other, means that you
are protecting all of your guinea pigs. This is not required when rescued from a reputable
shelter that already quarantines its guinea pigs.

 How to Quarantine
o Keep the new or sick pig in its own cage (by itself) in its own room, with
the door closed.
o Wash hands and arms well between handling any other guinea pigs
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 o Change shirt if you were holding the sick/new guinea pig
o This process takes about 3 weeks to properly quarantine your guinea pig.
o In the meantime, you should have your new or sick pig examined by a
qualified vet.

Health

Like any animal, large or small, guinea pigs need to be seen by a qualified
veterinarian if they become ill or show signs of illness. When looking for a veterinarian,
please keep in mind that guinea pigs are considered exotic animals and need to be seen by
a qualified, certified small animal/exotic veterinarian.

 Visiting the Vet

o Have your guinea pig weighed
 An adult guinea pig should weigh roughly between 2.5-3.5 lbs
 Weighing is often performed by the veterinary technician upon
entering the exam room
o The examination
 Typically, the veterinarian will ask you what the nature of your visit
is, assuming you are not bring your pet for an annual checkup.
 Once the doctor has heard what you have to say, he/she will use a
stethoscope and listen closely to the heart as well as the lungs to
rule out any respiratory conditions.
 Next, the doctor will exam the guinea pigs entire body and feel for
any lumps or abnormalities.
 An otoscope will be used to exam the ears, eyes, and nose.
 Some veterinarians will take a skin scraping to test for mites or
other types of skin infection, but we have found that skin scrapings
are often inconclusive with barrowing insects.
 If you suspect your pig has mites, do not be afraid to ask
for a medication to use as treatment. Revolution in puppy
and kitten formula is a monthly, pre-dosed application that
does a very affective job, as well as Ivermectin and
Advantage.
 If your veterinarian does find something wrong, he/she will explain
treatment with you and often prescribe medication.
 Please be aware that not all medications are safe for use in
guinea pigs. For a complete guide of safe medications,
please visit: http://www.guinealynx.info/antibiotics.html
 If your veterinarian does provide you with a safe antibiotic,
please ask for a probiotic as well. Probiotics are used to
keep the healthy gut flora in the stomach and are essential
to herbivores.
o If you have a healthy cavy, you can take half a piece
of cecal pellet, dissolve in water, and administer to
the ill cavy.
o If you do not have any other guinea pig, acidophilus
found in drugstores can be used.
o Avoid using yogurt or any kind of diary product as a
probiotic!
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 Weigh Weekly!
o It is a good idea to weigh your guinea pig once a
week. Becoming sick can affect a guinea pigs
weight. So by weighing your guinea pig once a
week, you will notice fluctuations in their weight
right away, which could be early signs of
illnesses.
o When your guinea pig does get sick, it is also a
good idea to weigh DAILY, just to make sure that
they are still eating.
o If your guinea pigs weigh fluctuates more than 2
ounces, please visit a veterinarian as soon as
possible.
 A five-pound kitchen scale is one of the
best methods for weighing your guinea
pig. Either digital or manual will work
well; however, some Cavy Galore
members feel digital scales are more
accurate.

 Grooming
o Nails
 Nails need to be clipped roughly once a month. You can either do
this yourself or find a local groomer, which ever you prefer. Some
owners use human nail clippers while others use small animal or
cat clippers.
 Be sure to have styptic powder or flour on hand in case the quick,
a small vein running through the nail, is clipped.
o Hair
 Daily brushing will help reduce the amount of loose hair, so your
pig may not shed as much. Longhaired guinea pigs may need more
brushing.
 Some Cavy Galore members find that brushing with a soft bristle
brush or fine toothed comb works well. Also, a tooth brush can
help brush out any tricky sections.
o Bathing
 Guinea pigs hardly ever need baths. However, when the time
comes to give him/her a bath, the best shampoo to use is either
Bunny Bath shampoo, kitten shampoo, or small animal shampoo.
 WARNING: Only wash a guinea pig when absolutely needed--over
washing results in dry, flakey skin.
 Do not bath a guinea pig that is currently being treated for mites
or other parasites. Not only will the medication for treatment be
rendered ineffective, but the bath itself can exacerbate mite
infestations and cause severe pain.

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 Handling

Guinea pigs get easily scared. Being picked up and put down can be very stressful
for them. They will squirm, kick, scratch, or maybe bite. There are two ways that are less
stressful for moving guinea pigs around. Please be aware that guinea pigs are pray animals
and, by instinct, tend to run from your hand until they become
acquainted.

 Methods
o Cuddle Sacks, or an empty pillowcase if you do not
own a Cuddle Sack, are great for holding your
guinea pig and make them feel far more
comfortable.
 Put your cuddle sack in the cage, and
encourage your guinea pig to go inside the
cuddle sack.
 Gently lift cuddle sack, with pig inside, out
of the cage.

o Gentle Handling
 Using 2 hands gently lift your pig out of the cage
 Making sure that one hand is around its body,
his front paw is between your first two fingers.
Your other hand supports his bottom.
 Hold him against your body firmly, but not
tightly.

Floor Time

Every guinea pig needs daily exercise. Even

if you have your pig in a huge cage, he/she still
needs to get out and explore new surroundings. If
you are using a smooth floor, such as ceramic tile,
it is recommended that you put towels or fleece
down, since guinea pigs slip easily on smooth
surfaces. Floor time can be easily set up using
extra grids from your Cubes and Coroplast cage.
While your guinea pig is enjoying floor time,
please be sure to provide food, water and hay as
well.

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 Harmful Products
Written by Amy of Cavy Galore

Even though an item is marketed for guinea pigs, this does NOT mean they are
actually suitable for a guinea pig to use. The following is a list of objects that should be
avoided:

1. The exercise ball- Guinea pigs have fairly ridged spines that cannot bend the way a
hamster or ferret spine can. Because of this, exercise balls are extremely harmful
and can cause severe spinal injury. Also, since guinea pigs have short appendages
and are fragile, bones can break easily. Exercise balls should never be used!

2. Large wheels- These present the same hazard as an exercise ball. Anything round
causes the pig's spine to curve and since the spine is so ridged this is very harmful.
These should not be used! A great alternative is giving your pig a daily allotment of
floor time. Find a piggy-proof area and allow your pig to wander. Make sure cords
are nowhere around and that the space is free of areas a pig could get trapped in.

3. Harnesses- In my opinion, this is a dumb idea for any small animal. Although they
market harnesses for guinea pigs, hamsters and ferrets, I don’t see much of a point
to using one. For instance, using a harness on a hamster can crush its fragile lungs.
Once again, since guinea pigs have stiff spines, a harness forces the spine in an
unnatural position, which can cause serious injury.

4. Cat toys with jingle bells- Do not leave these in a cage for your little one. If they
were to break, the bells could fall out and pose a severe choking hazard. If your
piggy enjoys playing with something that jingles, look for small ferret tennis balls
that have bells inside. The rubber from the tennis ball is thick so the bell cannot get
out.

5. Snack Shak toys- The main components in Snack Shak tunnels are not suitable for
guinea pigs. Snack Shaks contain honey, nuts, sawdust, and many other undesirable
components. If your piggy has the urge to chew, try a wooden, untreated hidey
house, untreated wooden nibble sticks, or chewable blocks.

6. Glass sipper tube bottles- Never buy a water bottle with a glass sipper tube for
any small animal. If the animal would chew on the glass, it could break and cause
various injuries such as wounds, eye problems, or even choking.

7. Hay Balls/Managers- Hay balls are dangerous because they can puncture a guinea
pigs eye or even worse! Some owners have reported that their guinea pigs have
11
 gotten their heads stuck in the small openings. Hay managers are also dangerous.
One owner has even reported that her guinea pig died after getting trapped in the
manager. Please see: http://www.guinealynx.inf...ums/viewtopic.php?t=49758

8. Plastic tubes- This should be obvious, but I will say it never the less. Do not use
small plastic tubes similar to hamster tubes even if they are marketed for guinea
pigs. Most likely, they are far too small and a pig could get stuck. A better alternative
is a Quaker oats container with a slit cut down the middle. If your piggy is too large
for it, the slit will provide an easy way to remove the piggy. In addition, large PVC
pipe can be used as tubes.

9. Any type of plastic cage liner- Plastic cage liners can be dangerous for the same
reason a plastic bag is dangerous for a baby--possible suffocation.

10. Fluffy Cotton-like material - This junk is often found inside a cardboard tube
called a Chube. The Chube itself is safe to use but remove the fluffy material
because it can pose a choking hazard.

11. Guinea Pig Diapers- Yes, someone actually made diapers that are guinea pig sized.
If you have any common sense, you know this is a silly idea and if you think it isn’t
then you shouldn’t own a guinea pig!

12. Salt Licks- There is absolutely no reason to have these. If your piggy gets a daily
supply of fresh veggies then it is getting all the minerals it needs. Remember,
salt=high cholesterol--even for pigs.

13. Mixed food- Mixed food that contains nuts, seeds or colored pieces shouldn’t be
used for guinea pigs as they are fatty and can be choking hazards. Oxbow and
Kleenmama make the best guinea pig foods. Please note that Kleenmama can only
be purchased over the internet: http://www.kmshayloft.com/pellets.html.

14. Clothing- Although guinea pig costumes/clothing are marketed, do you really think
your piggy cares if it has a pair of pants on or not? If you really feel the urge to put
your piggy in something, make sure the fabric is loose and breathable. Also, dont not
leave your piggy in its clothes unsupervised. Also, do not leave them in clothes for
over 15 minutes.

15. Pet Store Treats- Pet store treats are generally filled with sugar and other
unhealthy ingredients. The best treat to provide your pig is a fresh one! An
occasional slice of apple, pear or a piece of baby carrot will be greatly appreciated by
your piggy.

For more safety information, please check the links below:

http://www.guinealynx.info/records/viewtopic.php?t=81
http://www.guinealynx.info/forums/viewtopic.php?t=50743
http://www.guinealynx.info/forums/viewtopic.php?t=49758
http://www.guinealynx.info/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1477778
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 Guinea Pig FAQ’s
Written by Guinea Pig Goddess of Cavy Galore

Having proper knowledge is the first step to being a great animal owner, regardless
of the size of the animal. Some owners often find themselves lost upon the arrival of their
new friend, and searching for answers in all the wrong places. Below are some commonly
asked questions involving guinea pigs.

1. Will my two males fight?

a. No, unless one is an adolescent (4 to 8 months), they should get along fine,
assuming a proper introduction has taken place. On occasion, there will be
two or more guinea pigs that cannot stand each other and must be separated
permanently, but usually there is a rectifiable reason that would cause such
behavior.

2. What's fleece?
a. Fleece is a fabric used for bedding rather than litter. Fleece wicks the urine to
a second absorbent layer, which leaves dry. It is important to purchase the
proper kind of fleece and prepare it accordingly. When purchasing, be sure to
buy thick, anti-pill fleece. When ready to use, wash the fleece three times
without fabric softener. This will allow the fabric fibers to break down and
wick urine from the surface.

3. What is a "C&C cage"?

a. C and C cage stands for Cubes and Coroplast, or corrugated plastic. A Cubes
and Coroplast cage is the only recommended cage for guinea pigs due to is
large size. The cubes are made into any shape and the coroplast is cut to fit
the cubes, keeping litter, pigs, and fecal matter inside. For more information
on these cages, please review the “Basic Care” section.

4. Where can I get a guinea pig?

a. Although it may be tempting to purchase the first cute, fuzzy face you see,
please seriously consider adopting your guinea pig from a local shelter, rescue
organization or private owner who cannot care for their guinea pig any longer.
Pet stores and breeders often provide mis-sexed, pregnant, or even ill pigs.
For more information about adoption and pet store cruelty, please review the
“Why Adopt” section.

5. What are the guinea pig necessities?

a. The necessities of guinea pigs are hay, healthy vegetables, guinea pig foods
without colored bits or seeds, water bottle with metal sipper, ceramic food
bowl, a C&C cage, and bedding. Huts are optional because some guinea pigs
are so skittish that they stay in their huts unless there is fresh food. In that
kind of scenario, it would be better forgo the use of a hut, unless you just
recently adopted the guinea pig. If you feel your house is loud or stressful,
give your guinea pig somewhere to hide and distress.

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 6. Can a male and a female live together?
a. A male and female guinea pig can happily live together assuming that one of
them is sterilized, in other words neutered, or spayed. Many owners have
found great success in pairing a dominant, neutered male with a submissive
female. Two intact guinea pigs of the opposite sex should never be housed
together. Additionally, when pairing sterilized males and females, there
should always be more females than males. Males tend to fight for the
affection of a female, so a great amount of females than males will prevent
this problem.

Why Adopt?
Written by Amy of Cavy Galore

Animal Cruelty: There is no debate

“God loved the birds and invented trees. Man loved the birds and invented cages.”

-Jacques Deval, Afin de vivre bel et bien

By definition, cruelty is referred to as a deliberate infliction of pain and suffering,

feelings of extreme heartlessness and the quality of being cruel and causing tension and
annoyance (“Cruelty” par 5, definitions 2-3). Although society frowns upon cruelty to
humans, often a blind eye is turned when cruelty to animals enters the scene. In 2008,
nearly 100 cases of animal cruelty occurred in California alone. Some of these cases include
shooting, beating, stabbing and even strangulation (“Yearly Animal Abuse Report” par.3). In
figure 1, animal abuse in the state of Pennsylvania is shown and is absolutely astounding.
This graph also includes cases of beating, stabbing and shooting. Animal abuse occurs in
many ways, some of which are not even recognized, such as pet store abuse, mill abuse
and breeding abuse. It is a wonder that there is such a simple solution to end the animal
abuse cycle, but it has yet to be put into practice.

14
 A safe haven. A future. A loving new family. These images are often associated with
pet stores such as PetSmart, PetCo and Petland. Unfortunately, these lovely scenes are not
reality but rather fanciful clouds that mask the truth. PetSmart is just one of the many chain
pet stores that does not provide proper care for the animals they purchase for re-sale. Why
is this? Do these animals not deserve proper health care, housing and food? Why should
they be forced to resort to cannibalism on their dead cage mates? Sadly, there are no
reasonable answers for any of these questions. The only response that could possibly exist
is that pet stores do not see these creatures as living, breathing beings but rather as
disposable merchandise kept on hand for impulse buyers (“What’s Wrong with PetSmart?”
par.1-2). People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals, more commonly known as PETA,
performed an undercover investigation of one PetSmart facility in Manchester, Connecticut.
PETA decided to execute an investigation, after many years of assurance that the facilities
were up to par. Contrary to the guarantee that Pet Smart offered, conditions were horrific to
say the least. Roughly 100 small animals were left for dead in the stores back room seeking
no medical treatment despite Pet Smarts Banfield clinic being only seconds away (“PetSmart
Store Investigation” par.1).

As PETA’s investigation continued, many of the

investigators kept logs of shocking events that took place. A
bone-chilling entry was made on October 23, 2006 in one
investigators daily log. The entry stated:

On October 23, 2006, a hamster in cage 10 in the sick

room was found dead. This was one of the hamsters
that I took to the vet on October 20, 2006, due to her
having wet tail and crusty eyes. [The Pet Care
Manager] had brought her back to the sick room
before the vet could see her and told me that … she
did not need to see the vet. (“PetSmart Store
Investigation” par.4)

The hamster in figure 2

is only one of the many
that died while in the
care of PetSmart. Other
animals, such as birds,
fish, guinea pigs and rats, have all suffered similar
fates.

PetSmart is not the only store that can be

crucified for the treatment of animals, Petland also
decided to join the train of animal abuse and neglect.
Some feel that Petland is even worse than any other
chain pet store because they utilize breeders to obtain
dogs that will be sold in stores. April 2000 is one of the
15
most crucial times in Petland cruelty. NBC’s Dateline did an exposition story on puppy mills,
and they just so happened to visit a “private-breeding” facility that was used for Petland.
How bad could private breeding possibly be? The first facility contained roughly 500 dogs all
caged and “supplied” with maggot-infested food. Many were sick and even wounded. Figure
3 shows one puppy mill back-breeding dog, a dog that is bred repeatedly without breaks,
that was severely emaciated at its time of rescue. NBC also had the opportunity to speak
with a former Petland supplier who drove trucks for the store. The driver stated that he was
once instructed by a Petland breeder to take a sick puppy and dispose of it in a trash
burner. It is beneficial to remember, these breeders supply Petland’s dogs, and with each
purchase of a dog from Petland, the purchaser is supporting the continuation of breeders
(“Boycott Petland” par.15-18). With every purchase, the never-ending breeding mill-pet
store cycle, presented in figure 4, continues to manifest.

In addition to
insufficient care, Petland
breeders do not even properly
house the animals they are
breeding. The United States
Department of Agriculture,
USDA, states that if an
animal’s back is touching the
rear of the cage, it must have
at least six inches in front of
its nose. Sadly, these breeders
have violated this law and do
not even provide that small
amount of room required
(“Violations of USDA
regulations by PetLand
Breeders” par.6-15). During
an investigation into a report
of poor animal conditions, one
of the USDA investigators
reported:

July 30, 2004: "Several boxers were found with skin problems... Hair loss was noted
on female #594 and #580, tag gone off adult breeding male. One dog was observed
scratching. A dog in an adjacent pen also appeared to be affected...No medical
records were available on these dogs. Outside the pen was noted a dead adult
female, covered with a feed sack... This dog appeared very thin…Also, a returned
boxer pup in broker area was observed with severe skin lesions of hair loss and
areas of inflammation especially over its head as well as having a yellow discharge
around both eyes. XX were instructed to take this pup to a veterinarian for
examination by COB the day of this inspection…Medical records must be kept on
dogs with vet care issues. (“Violations of USDA regulations by PetLand Breeders”
par.15)

Despite Petland being the worst of the three chain stores to be mentioned, PetCo is a
16
close second. In San Diego, a civil case was brought against PetCo due to inappropriate
animal care, poor cage conditions, and untreated animals. Also, the suit claimed that price
scanners were overcharging items anywhere between the ranges of $0.03 to $0.00.
Thankfully, parts of California took action against PetCo and banned the sales of small
animals due to the neglect that was seen in various PetCo stores (“Animal Abuse Case
Details” par.3). Despite San Francisco, California taking action, nearly 27 other states still
experience various problems with pet care presented at PetCo stores. Spiders in bird cages,
fish being removed from tanks and killed inhumanely so they could be fed to turtles, salt
water tanks being filled with fresh water which resulted in the death of fish, small animals
born at the store and released outside, and worst of all, an employee was seen laughing
while sucking up a pair of Parakeets in a vacuum and still kept his job are just a few
examples. Even though the San Diego lawsuit resulted in a $900,000 fine to PetCo,
obviously they have learned nothing and continue this poor treatment at other facilities
(“Animal Abuse Case Details” par.20).
So how can this problem be fixed? How can the prevention of pet stores from treating
animals so horribly take place? How can a never-ending cycle stop? The answers to these
questions are simple. Those who would like to own a pet should adopt rather than purchase
one. There are many pets in shelters and rescues waiting to be taken into a loving home.
Most come from people who bought these animals on impulse buys or found that they were
sick after the purchase and did not “feel” like supplying proper care. The animals in shelters
are not defective goods, they are living creatures waiting to enter into someone’s life and
finally be appreciated. By adopting from a shelter or rescue, there is no funding of pet
stores and no allowance for them to purchase more animals from breeders who do not
provide proper care. Many do not know that dogs and cats are not the only animals in
rescues. Petfinder.com, an online website listing 299,590 adoptable pets in 12,184 shelters
and rescues, lists dogs, cats, birds, guinea pigs, ferrets and even hamsters that are waiting
for loving homes (Petfinder.com Heading).
In conclusion, all must realize that animals do not have voices. They cannot speak up
and tell the world all of the horrible treatment they are receiving. They cannot ask for help
or tell others when they are sick or suffering. The public must be their voices and speak up
for those who cannot. Each person must take the initiative to inspect local pet stores on
every visit and report any unsightly conditions or ill animals. It is unrealistic to believe that
pet stores will one day be eradicated, but supplying knowledge and facts as well as
informing people about the cruelty presented by pet stores is one small step taken to
deteriorate their success.

Work Cited

"Animal Abuse Case Details." Pet-Abuse.com. 2001-2008. 22 October 2008

<http://www.pet-abuse.com/cases/2373/>.

“Cruelty.” Dictionary.com. 2008. 2008 October 2008

<http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/cruelty?o=0>.

"Boycott Petland." Petstorecruelty.org. 22 October 2008

<http://www.petstorecruelty.org/boycottpetland.htm>.

Petfinder.com. 2008. Discovery Company. 22 October 2008 <www.petfinder.com>.

17
"PetSmart Store Investigation." People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals. 2006-2007. 22
October 2008 <http://www.petsmartcruelty.com/investigation_manchester.asp>.

" Violations of USDA regulations by Pet Land Breeders." Petstorecruelty.org 12 October

2008
< http://www.petstorecruelty.org/USDA%20Violations%20by%20Petland%20breeders.htm
>.

"Whats Wrong with Pet Smart?" People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals. 22 October
2008 <http://www.petsmartcruelty.com/whats_wrong.asp>.

"Yearly Animal Abuse Report." Pet-Abuse.com. 2008. 22 October 2008 <http://www.pet-

abuse.com/pages/cruelty_database/statistics/yearly_animal_abuse_report.php?state=CA&y
ear=2008&search=go> .

Health 101
Written by Cierra of Cavy Galore

Knowing when your guinea pig is sick is the key to early treatment and prevention of
deadly illnesses. Here is a list of things to look for in a healthy guinea pig, and things to look
out for when suspicious of illness.

 Eyes- Color- Cavies can have either dark, red, or ruby colored eyes. Dark eyes
are mostly considered to be blue, brown, or black. If your pigs eyes are healthy,
they will reflect red when light is cast upon them.
o Look out for- Always be observant and watch for signs of crusty, watery,
cloudy, receding, or protruding eyes. All of the previous symptoms are
cause for alarm and could be signs of illnesses such as an upper
respiratory infection, abscess, injury, dental problem, dehydration,
diabetes or cataracts. If you notice any of these eye conditions occurring,
please contact your veterinarian immediately.

 Teeth- Guinea pigs have 20 pairs of teeth, including a pair of upper and lower
incisors, a pair of upper and lower premolars and three pairs of upper and lower
molars. However, guineas do not have canine teeth like other mammals. Guinea
pig teeth are open-rooted and grow constantly. In a healthy guinea pig, the
biting, chewing and grinding of food, especially hays, grasses, and abrasive
foods, will normally keep the teeth at the proper length -- a length that varies
somewhat from one guinea pig to another. In other words, they need constant
hay to ensure healthy teeth as well as Vitamin C for strength.
o Look out for- Observe any changes in how your guinea pig eats food.
Examine their teeth regularly, about once a week or so, for breaks or
wear- down. Please be sure to weigh them! If their weight changes more
than 3 oz, take them to a veterinarian immediately!

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 Feet- First of all, guinea pig nails need to be trimmed regularly. If you don’t trust
yourself to do it, your veterinarian will most likely trim them for you. Young pigs
tend to have sharp nails, while "elders" tend to have dull nails. Don’t worry too
much if your pigs nails slump to a side. Some nails grow straight and some
curve, which is perfectly normal. As long as the nail is short, there is no need to
worry.
o Look out for-
 Polydactyly, or having an extra toe, can snag or tear, and put your
little one in quite a bit of pain. If your guinea pig has an extra toe,
see a veterinarian and discuss possible treatment options. The
veterinarian will most likely surgically remove it, assuming the toe
is affect the health and wellness of the pig.
 Torn Nails- Sometimes, a nail gets stuck in something and tears
completely off. If profuse bleeding occurs, styptic powder or flour
will help. Dab the affected toe in the powder to clot the blood. It
may take a month for the nail to grow back completely. Always
keep an eye on the affected area for any signs of infection. If any
signs of infection, such as redness, puss or swollen appearance,
occur please visit a veterinarian as soon as possible.
 Spurs--Spurs are tough pieces of skin that stick up from their feet
and are similar to a hangnail. It does not have anything to do with
the bedding you use; it has to do with how active they are. The
more active, the bigger chance they will have spurs. Spurs also
involve genetics. Spurs should be cleaned with a diluted solution of
povidone-iodine. The dirtier the cage, the more likely they will
develop an infection. It is very important to keep your cage clean!
Spurs can be carefully removed with a human nail clipper to
prevent accidental tearing. Avoid clipping too closely and causing
bleeding.

 Nose- The nose should be clear and free of drainage. Snotty noses and frequent
sneezing can be a sign of a bacterial infection. Fungal infections often start on the
face as well. Cheilitis is an inflammation of the lips that sometimes spreads
toward the nose. Nose irritation could be a URI, Fungus,or Cheilitis, so it is
necessary to see a veterinarian.

 Ears- Ears should be clean and free of dirt. Dirty ears can be a sign of a fungal
infection, mites, or poor hygiene. If you feel you need to clean your pigs’ ears,
use the edge of a wet towel and gently wipe the inner ear.

 Fur and Skin- A guinea pig should have healthy looking fur and skin. A modest
amount of shedding is normal. No lumps, scabs, dandruff, or hair loss should be
present. If your guinea pig seems to be overly itchy, agitated, is experiencing
hair loss or scabbing, please visit your veterinarian.

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 The Importance of Indoor Living
Written by Cielo of Cavy Galore

I wanted to share this with you since there are many people that believe their
backyard is a safe place to house guinea pigs. I live in a nice neighborhood in Florida. Most
of the time, our weather is not out of the recommendable range for guinea pigs. Although
most people feel predators are not present in communities, I have several stories that prove
otherwise and make me thankful that I house my guinea pigs indoors.
When my most beautiful piggy passed, Linny, we made a burial in our backyard. We
made a small hole for him that was deep enough so that his body could rest in peace there.
The next day, my husband called my attention toward a horrible thing. Even though we
never thought we had predators in our backyard, somehow Linnys’ little body was taken out
of his last resting place and disappeared completely. Only some hairs were left behind. It
was an awful feeling knowing that a predator took him away from us so easily.
A couple of weeks ago, I was browsing Craigslist and I read something unbelievable.
A person was encouraging people to take their pets indoors. He/she had a neighbor that
housed his dogs outside. Someone tried to steal his neighbor’s dogs during the night. This
occurred not once, but twice. The thief was stopped because other neighbors were brave
enough to stop the intruder before he could take the dogs. I never thought that people were
capable of doing something so heartless. With so many pets in shelters, rescues and
available for private adoption, why would somebody want to steal dogs that have a home?
This morning, my husband told me that there were two loose dogs roaming around. I
asked him if he got them so we could help find their owner. He said that somebody called
the shelter. I said, “why the shelter? That is an ugly place to wait for your owner.” He told
me that they were aggressive. He went to our backyard and when he opened the door,
there was a Rottweiler and a Chihuahua. As soon as he opened the door, they started
barking ferociously at him. Those same dogs chased two different neighbors as well. I asked
him the attitude of the dogs and he reassured me that they were ready to attack from their
body language. Scary, don't you think?
Predator threats in addition to the possibility of the temperature dropping too low in
the night, too high during the day, or whatever emergency that might arise just increase
the risk of losing your guinea pig due to the outdoors. It is just not safe to leave them
outside alone. Also, it is far less likely for owners to interact with their pets or notice
illnesses if that pet is out of site. Please provide a good house to your guinea pigs, keep
them inside. They are small, easy, fragile prey.

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