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Sweater Quality Guidelines

Procedure Requirements Timeline


Submit a sample in the base size (8 or Small - 20W or 1X) for each size range with Fit Sample Worksheets.
Samples must be in exact skin with any trims and treatments applied. For complete details and
Fit Review requirements see Chapter 24 Apparel Fit Review and Chapter 23 Apparel Measurement Guidelines . Immediately after PO is issued

Swatches of all colors. Because of its unique properties, leather and suede require a different Standard
Fabric Test Package. To view the Standard Fabric Test Package for leather/suede, see Chapter 22
Apparel Test Methods and Specifications. NOTE: Dry Clean Only or non-washable leather/suede must be
Fabric Testing tested at ITS NJ. Washable leather/suede can be tested at any QVC-authorized testing laboratory. For Immediately after PO is issued
complete details on the testing process see Chapter 21 Apparel Fabric and Garment Testing .

Garment in darkest colorway, same as the item sold to the QVC customer, including all trim, findings,
accessories, and quality of workmanship. Because of its unique properties, leather and suede require a
different Standard Fabric Test Package. To view the Standard Fabric Test Package for leather/suede, see It is crucial that swatches and samples are submitted in a timely manner. Vendors must make sure there is
Chapter 22 Apparel Test Methods and Specifications. NOTE: Dry Clean Only or non-washable enough production lead-time, in case of necessary alterations or a second test. Garment testing occurs
Garment Testing after the fabric testing results are accepted by QVC QA. Garment testing must be completed before TOPs
leather/suede must be tested at ITS NJ. Washable leather/suede can be tested at any QVC-authorized
testing laboratory. For complete details on the testing process see Chapter 21 Apparel Fabric and Garment are submitted.
Testing

QVC QA generates the Graded Specs for each size range and lists them on a Graded Specs Report. For
Graded complete information on Graded Specifications, see Chapter 25 Apparel Grading and Tolerances .
QA sends the Graded Specs Report to the Vendor after the final fit status for ALL size ranges is Approved
Specifications or Conditionally Approved

Submit samples in the base sizes (8/Small and 20W/1X) for each size range as it would be shipped to the
QVC Distribution Center, including all labeling, literature, and packaging. Vendors can view the evaluation
report, comments, and disposition on the Vendor Web site in the section, "QA First Piece Evaluation." For The vendor must send TOPs in a timely manner, so all required samples are received by QVC no later than
TOP Evaluation 3 weeks prior to the First Ship Date as stated on the Purchase Order.
complete details on the TOP Evaluation, see Chapter 29 Apparel Production Sample Evaluation .

"Pre-Shipment Finished Goods Audit" is an inspection procedure in which QVC QA or its authorized
Inspection Agent examines finished product when most or all of the quantity of the Purchase Order is
manufactured, packed, labeled, and ready to ship. A vendor will be notified when a PSFGA is required. A PSFGA is conducted at the place of manufacture or any other location in which goods are staged prior to
PSFGA shipping goods to QVC.
For complete details and requirements see Appendix G: QVC QA Guide to Pre-Shipment Finished Goods
Audits.

A sampling plan is used to verify that the bulk production received by the QVC Distribution Center conforms
QVC Warehouse to all of QVC's specifications and quality and shipping requirements. For complete details see Chapter 3 After bulk production is received by the Distribution Center.
Receipt Audit Apparel Finished-Product Audit .

Any order for a Today's Special Value has additional requirements.


Fitting: After Small/8 and 1X/20W are approved a Full Size Run of samples is required with a representation
of all colors on Purchase Order. Testing: All
Today's Special colors must be fabric tested and the darkest color garment tested. No Referencing Allowed for TSV's.
Value TOP: All sizes must be submitted for TOP Evaluation, with all colors on the Purchase Order represented.

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Manufacturing Guidelines

Must meet all applicable QVC product specifications and manufacturing guidelines. Knitting and tension must be even and consistent throughout the garment. All garments
General
must have durable trims.
For selling units containing more than one component - label placement shall be in a consistent location. Labeling shall conform to all applicable regulations. See Chapter
Label Placement
27 Apparel Labeling Requirements .
Stitches and linking at seams should have even tension and no holes. All thread tails are to be trimmed to a maximum of 1/4" (0.64 cm).
Seams / Stitches

Shoulder Pad All items with shoulder pads shall have removable shoulder pads, unless specified otherwise by the QA Technician. Exception: Fully lined garments.
All shoulder seams are to be taped.
Shoulder Seams
Bindings and finishes of ends shall be neat and strong. Type and style of closure shall be consistent throughout production lot. Placement marks for zippers shall not be
Zippers
visible. Opening shall be reinforced at both zipper stops. There shall be no raw edges at zippered openings. All garments with two-way zippers shall have a disclaimer tag
Satin stitch, invisible stitching, blanket stitch, blind stitch, slipstitch and buttonhole stitching are permitted. Zigzag stitching shall be 1/16" to 3/8" (0.16 to 0.95 cm) in width.
Zigzag stitching shall be sufficient to cover all raw edges of applique. All threads shall be secured with a back tack of at least three (3) stitches. Blind stitch or slipstitch to be
Applique no more than 1/8" (0.32 cm) apart. Turn under allowance: 1/4" (0.64 cm) minimum. Stitching shall be sufficient to secure applique to base fabric. Stitching shall be
sufficient to cover all raw edges of applique. Thread knots shall be secured and pulled through to the back of the fabric.
Extra button(s) must be sewn to the inside side seam of a garment, 3" up from the bottom finished hem or at the top of the side vents. Exceptions must be approved by QVC
Extra Button
QA.
Extra Beads or Garments with beads and sequins shall have extra trim supplied in a small zippered polybag and be attached to the care label with the QVC hangtag.
Sequins
All side seams, center front seams/plackets and center back seams shall have stripes matching horizontally across the body. Stripes must be parallel to the floor.
Stripes
Romance tags must be determined by the merchandise team, approved by the QA team. Attached through size label. Additional disclaimer hangtags will be determined
Hangtags through QVCQAapparel at the point of the fabric and garment test. Chapter 27 Apparel Labeling Requirements .

QVC QA will determine the packaging during the fit process. Illustrations of fold methods and GOH instructions can be found in Chapter 7 Apparel Packaging Integrity and
Packaging the Ability to Survive Transit.

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Arm's Length
Products are inspected between 24" and 30" from the eyes. The Inspector looks for larger defects such as weaving flaws, print defects, dirt, and shading.
Inspection

Up Close Inspection Products are inspected up close, within 12" to 16" from the eyes. The Inspector looks for smaller defects such as open seams and missing stitches.

1. Renders the product critical. Examples of Major Defects of Dirt, Soil, Stain:
2. May adversely affect serviceability. Larger than 1/8" to 3/8" in A zone.
Major Defect 3. May shorten the life cycle of the product. Larger than 3/8" to 3/4" in A zone or B zone.
Characteristics 4. Would be objectionable to the customer. Larger than 3/8" to 3/4" in A zone or B zone.
5. Makes the product no longer considered first quality. Example of Major Defect for Untrimmed Threads:
6. Will increase the return rate. Longer than 4".

1. Does not affect the wearability Examples of Minor Defects of Dirt, Soil, Stain:
2. Does not affect the serviceability 1/8" and under in A zone.
Minor Defect
3. Does not affect the lifecycle of the product. Larger than 1/8" to 3/8" in B zone.
Characteristics
4. Would not be objectionable to the consumer Example of Minor Defect for Untrimmed Threads:
5. Would not affect the comfort, fit, or quality of the product. Shorter than 4".

Location of a defect can determine whether the defect is Major or Minor, or


whether the item is accepted or rejected. Since some locations on a garment
are more critical than others, QVC QA sections a garment into "A" and "B"
zones:
"A" zones are considered to be the most critical visual areas of a product.
"B" zones are considered important, but less critical.
See sketch for illustrations of basic "A" and "B" zones.

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Examples of Defects
Manufacturing Defects
Laddering

Major Defect in A Zone

Laddering: A dropped stitch drops Can Be Minor Defect if in a B Zone


several rows creating a laddering Depending on Size and Location
effect.

Broken Stitch

Major Defect
Broken Stitch: A knit stitch breaks
creating a hole in the fabric.

Major Defect in A Zone

Dropped Stitches: A defect in the Can Be Minor Defect if in a B Zone


construction of the knit where loops Depending on Size and Location
do not interconnect, creating a
hole in the fabric.

Major Defect

Poor Linking: Missed stitches


when connecting one panel to
another or attaching a tubular trim.

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Examples of Defects Con't.

Major Defect in A Zone

Fly Yarn: A foreign fiber that Can Be Minor Defect if in a B Zone


gets knit into the fabric. Depending on Size and Location

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Key Sweater Terms

Double Bed (Vee) Knitting machines that have two opposing beds of knitting needles, each one controlling a stitch during the knitting process. Double bed machines make a higher quality rib
Knitting construction and can often be used in full-fashioned knitting and elaborate stitch combinations. True "cable stitches" can only be done on double bed machinery.
In knitting, the number of needles (wales) per inch on the knitting machine (rather than the number of stitches per inch on the knitted textile). Some full fashioned knitting
Gauge
equipment still indicates the gauge as needles per 1.5". The more needles-per-inch indicates the fineness of the knitted fabric.
A knitting process where different colors or yarns are inlaid within the body of the knitted panel so that they are contained in that specific design element or motif. The
Intarsia reverse side of an intarsia design will be single knitting throughout without floats or double knitting. Intarsias can be done by hand-frame knitting or on special intarsia
machines.
Jersey In machine knitting, plain knit fabric, formed on one set of needles. In hand knitting called "knit"; on the reverse side the stitch formation is called "purl".
Knit-Down A knitted sample, used to demonstrate or present the specific color combos, yarns, stitches and/or pattern in a design. The knit-down is often used for approval purposes.
A knitting term indicating that each section of the garment is "fashioned" or shaped to its finished dimensions for every size in the range. Usually the garment sections are
Fully Fashioned
then "linked" or "looped" together to finish. A Fully-Fashioned garment wastes very little yard, often an important cost factor.
Fashioning Marks A knitting term indicating the marks that fully-fashioned garments usually have near the seams, indicating where the individual panels were knitted to shape.
Knitting on a single or double needle bed machine. A "carriage" carries the yarns back and forth across the knitting bed and forms the loop-like stitches needle-by-needle.
Flat Knitting
Flat bed knitting can be more versatile and may have the ability to fully fashion a garment, but it is considerably slower than circular knitting.
An assembly technique most often used in fully-fashioned knits. The various sections and knit trims of the garment are joined together by an machine that produces a
Linking or Looping flexible, elastic chain-stitch seam. The machine operator matches each stitch along a seam to its counterpart on the other panel to be joined. It is a high quality, labor-
intensive process.
Any fiber that comes from a natural source and needs a minimum of processing to create yarns for textile production. The most common categories are: animal - silk, (wool,
Natural Fibers
hair and fur); vegetable - cotton, linen, ramie.
In knitting, the process of knitting two different yarns simultaneously so that one yarn is visible from the surface and the other yarn is carried underneath, directly behind it.
Plating This can be done to combine two colors for a mock "heather" effect, to hide a more functional yarn or fiber on the back of the textile (as in a stretch yarn) or to have a
"performance" yarn next to the body (for absorbency, wicking, anti-rash, etc.).
One of the basic functions of machine knitting where one or more stitches are transferred to another needle to the left or right of their current positions. This can produce a
Racking
zigzag effect and is also one of the steps in making a cable stitch on a double bed machine.
A group of stitches alternating jersey and reverse jersey (purl) to create vertical ribbed effect and create a more elastic textile. Because of the additional elasticity, ribbed
Rib Knit
knits are often used at the openings or bottoms of a garment for a snug and comfortable fit.

* From www.fashiondex.com glossary

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