YARNS FOR KNITTING

By Rishika Nathani

1.0. TEXTILE FABRIC:

Textile fibres can be produced directly from webs of fibres by bonding, fusing or
interlocking to make non woven fabrics and felts, but their physical properties tend to
restrict their potential end uses.
There are three principal methods of mechanically manipulating yarn into textile
fabrics: interweaving, intertwining and interloping. All the three methods have
evolved from hand manipulated techniques through their application on primitive
frames into sophisticated manufacturing operations on automated machinery.
1.1. INTERWEAVING:
It is the intersection of two sets of straight threads, warp and
weft, which cross and interweave at right angles to each
other. Weaving is by far the oldest and most common
method of producing continuous lengths of straight edged
fabric. Fig. 1.plain weave structure
showing warp and weft

1.2. INTERTWINING
It includes a number of techniques, such as braiding and knotting, where threads are
caused to intertwine with each other at right angles or some other
angle. These techniques tend to produce special constructions whose
uses are limited to very specific purposes.

Fig. 2.braiding technique

shown

1.3.INTERLOOPING:
It consists of forming yarn(s) into loops, each of which is
typically only released after a succeeding loop has been
formed and intermeshed with it so that a secure ground loop
structure is achieved. The loops are also held together by the
yarns passing from one to the next.
 Fig. 3. Weft knitting
structure.
Knitting is the most common method of interlooping and is
second only to weaving as a method of manufacturing of textile products

2.0. YARNS FOR KNITTING

2.1. INTRODUCTION:

Yarns are the raw materials manipulated during knitting. A yarn is

defined as ‘an assembly, of substantial length and relatively small cross-
section, of fibres or filaments, with or without twist’. The term thread is
used in place of yarn and does not imply that it is as smooth, highly
twisted and compact as a sewing thread.

Textile fibres are the raw materials of the yarns into which they are Fig. 4.wool-animal fibre
based yarn most
spun. There are two configurations of fibres: staple fibre and filament commonly used for
knitting
fibres.

Staple fibres are of comparatively short length-for example, cotton and wool fibres,
which require spinning and twisting together in order to produce a satisfactory length
of yarn of suitable strength.
A filament is a fibre of indefinite length- for example silk, which requires combining
with other filaments, usually with some twist, in order to produce a yarn of sufficient
bulk.

Yarn count numbering systems:

A yarn count number indicates the linear density to which that particular yarn has been spun.
An important consideration in choosing a yarn count is the machine gauge which defines the
spacing of the needles in the needle bed.

Obviously, the finer the machine gauge, the finer the required yarn count. Choice of yarn
count is also restricted by the type of knitting machine. employed and the knitting
construction .

The count in the turn, influences the cost, weight, opacity, handle and drapability of the
resultant structure. In general, staple spun yarns tend to be comparatively more expensive and
finer their count because finer fibres are more exacting spinning process are necessary in
order to prevent the yarn from showing an irregular appearance.

Unfortunately, a number of differently based count numbering systems are still currently in
use. Historically most systems are associated with particular yarn spinning system. Thus a
yarn spun on the worsted system from acrylic fibres may be given to worsted count number.

The worsted count system is of the indirect type based on length per fixed unit mass i.e. .the
higher the count number, the finer the yarn. The weight is fixed (1 lb.) and the length in unit
(number of 560 yard hanks) varies.

The denier system is of the direct type based on mass per fixed unit length. The length unit is
fixed (9000 m) and the weight unit (in grams) varies.

The Tex system was introduced as universal system to replace all the existing system. As Tex
sometimes produces account number having a decimal point, it has been found more
satisfactory to multiply the count number by 10 to give a deci Tex number. The Tex system
has not been universally accepted, particularly for spun yarns.

2.2. CLASSIFICATION OF YARN ACCORDING TO FIBRES:

2.2.1 PLANT BASED:

COTTONS

All varieties of cotton have a dull finish unless mercerized. Cotton yarn has minimal
elasticity unless blended with other fibres. Pure cotton is useful for projects that require
structure such as purses and tote bags, placemats, and other utilitarian items.

FIBRE TYPE DESCRIPTION

Egyptian Longest cotton fibre, smoother and softer than other cottons.

cotton
Prima cotton Cross between Egyptian and American cottons. Intermediate properties.

American Medium-long fibre, readily takes on dye. Available in widest variety of colours.

cotton
OTHER PLANT FIBRES:

FIBRE TYPE DESCRIPTION

Linen Strong fibre, good for warm weather items. Wrinkles easily.

Rayon Made from processed wood pulp. Inexpensive and highly absorbent, natural
sheen.

2.2.2. ANIMAL BASED FIBRES:

FIBRE TYPE DESCRIPTION

Merino wool Softer than cotton, tends to pill

Icelandic wool Strong but scratchy.

Mohair Lofty and luxurious, best used as an outer layer. May feel
scratchy.
Cashmere Soft, luxurious, expensive
Alpaca Very warm. Suitable for accessories such as scarves

Angora Very soft, tends to shed. Best used in pure form as an accent material, or
blended with other fibres.
Silk Exceptionally strong, lustrous, and shiny. Good for summer wear

2.2.3. SYNTHETIC FIBRES:

FIBRE TYPE DESCRIPTION

Acrylic Washes well, inexpensive. Good choice for beginners and for items
designed for babies or pets.
Nylon Strong, elastic, washes well. Not ideal for garments unless blended with
other fibres.

Nylon, the first truly synthetic fibre, was invented by Wallace h. Carothers in 1938.It is based
on synthetically–built long chain polyamide polymer that previously did not occur naturally.
A wide range of synthetic fibre polymers and poly acrylics has since been developed. Many
of the synthetic polymers may be converted into yarns in continuous filament form. The
filaments may also be cut or broken into staple fibre form, to be later spun on systems
originally developed for natural fibres such as wool or cotton.

2.3 CLASSIFICATION OF YARNS ON THE BASIS OF WEIGHT:

Different yarns are said to have different weights, or thicknesses, and different weights of
yarns are used for different types of projects.

2.3.1 The Standard Yarn Weight System

Yarn weight refers to the thickness of the yarn. It's a range, from super fine to super
bulky. There are six different categories of yarn weights, and according to the Craft Yarn
Council of America, specific weights of yarn should produce a somewhat predictable number
of stitches when using a particular sized needle.

The higher the number, the heavier the yarn and the fewer stitches per inch will be get. If you
know that every bulky yarn is going to give you around the same number of stitches (in this
case, 12 to 15 stitches in four inches on size 9 to 11 needles) and you have a pattern that uses
bulky yarn and size 10 needles, you can buy any kind of bulky yarn and get a similar result.

YARN WEIGHTS:

YARN WEIGHT SUPER FINE LIGHT MEDIUM BULKY SUPER

FINE BULKY
CATEGORY Baby, Baby, DK, Afghan, Chunky, Bulky
Aran,
Fingering, Sport Light, Craft, roving
Worsted
Sock Worsted Rug
STITCHES/4INCHES 27-32 23-26 21-24 16-20 12-14 6-11

3.0 PROPERTIES OF YARNS

A yarn's usefulness for a knitting project is judged by several factors, such as its loft (its
ability to trap air), its resilience (elasticity under tension), its washability and colorfastness,
its hand (its feel, particularly softness vs. scratchiness), its durability against abrasion, its
resistance to pilling, its hairiness (fuzziness), its tendency to twist or untwist, its overall
weight and drape, its blocking and felting qualities, its comfort (breathability, moisture
absorption, wicking properties) and of course its look, which includes its color, sheen,
smoothness and ornamental features. Other factors include allergenicity; speed of drying;
resistance to chemicals, moths, and mildew; melting point and flammability; retention of
static electricity; and the propensity to become stained and to accept dyes. Different factors
may be more significant than others for different knitting projects, so there is no one "best"
yarn. The resilience and propensity to (un)twist are general properties that affect the ease of
hand-knitting. More resilient yarns are more forgiving of irregularities in tension; highly
twisted yarns are sometimes difficult to knit, whereas untwisting yarns can lead to split
stitches, in which not all of the yarn is knitted into a stitch. A key factor in knitting is stitch
definition, corresponding to how well complicated stitch patterns can be seen when made
from a given yarn. Smooth, highly spun yarns are best for showing off stitch patterns; at the
other extreme, very fuzzy yarns or eyelash yarns have poor stitch definition, and any
complicated stitch pattern would be invisible.

4.0 YARNS FOR HANDKNITTING:

Knitting may be done by hand or by machine. There exist

numerous styles and methods of hand knitting.

Yarn for hand-knitting is usually sold as balls or skeins

(hanks), although it may also be wound on spools or cones.
Skeins and balls are generally sold with a yarn-band, a label
that describes the yarn's weight, length, dye lot, fibre Fig. 5.A hank of wool yarn (centre) is
uncoiled into its basic loop. A tie is visible
content, washing instructions, suggested needle size, at the left; after untying, the hank may be
wound into a ball or balls suitable for
knitting.
likely gauge, etc. It is common practice to save the yarn band for future reference, especially
if additional skeins must be purchased. Knitters generally ensure that the yarn for a project
comes from a single dye lot. The dye lot specifies a group of skeins that were dyed together
and thus have precisely the same colour; skeins from different dye-lots, even if very similar
in colour, are usually slightly different and may produce a visible stripe when knitted
together. If a knitter buys insufficient yarn of a single dye lot to complete a project, additional
skeins of the same dye lot can sometimes be obtained from other yarn stores or online.
Otherwise, knitters can alternate skeins every few rows to help the dye lots blend together
easier.

The thickness or weight of the yarn is a significant factor in determining the gauge, i.e., how
many stitches and rows are required to cover a given area for a given stitch pattern. Thicker
yarns generally require thicker knitting needles, whereas thinner yarns may be knit with thick
or thin needles. Hence, thicker yarns generally require fewer stitches, and therefore less time,
to knit up a given garment. Patterns and motifs are coarser with thicker yarns; thicker yarns
produce bold visual effects, whereas thinner yarns are best for refined patterns. Yarns are
grouped by thickness into six categories: superfine, fine, light, medium, bulky and super
bulky; quantitatively, thickness is measured by the number of wraps per inch (WPI). The
related weight per unit length is usually measured in tex or denier.

Before knitting, the knitter will typically transform a hank into a ball
where the yarn emerges from the centre of the ball; this making the
knitting easier by preventing the yarn from becoming easily tangled.
This transformation may be done by hand, or with a device known as
a ball winder. When knitting, some knitters enclose their balls in jars Fig. 6.Transformation of a
hank of lavender silk yarn
to keep them clean and untangled with other yarns; the free yarn (top) into a ball in which
the knitting yarn emerges
passes through a small hole in the jar-lid. from the centre (bottom).

5.0 YARNS FOR MACHINE KNITTING:

Yarns for machine knitting is usually sold as spools or cones by weight.

The different range of yarns for machine knitting available are:

Acrylic Knitting Yarn

Fig. 7.acrylic knitting
Acknowledged for yarn
 Softness
Skin- friendliness
Auto coned and spliced features
Knot less twisted on TFOs.

Ideal for Knitting and weaving

Sweaters
Scarves
Gloves
Socks
Shoes
Carpets
Fanons
• Cotton Carded Knitting Yarn
Preferred For
100% cotton
Anti-abrasion properties
Chemical resistance
High strength
Excellent durability

Suitable For
Knitting and weaving in single ply and multi-fold
• Cotton Knitting Yarn
Known For
100% natural cotton
Shrink resistance
Chemical resistance
Abrasion resistance
High durability
Other type of yarns available are:
Polyester Knitting Yarn
Twisted Knitting Yarn
6.0 DYEING OF YARNS:

The dyeing of yarn is a complex art. Yarns need not be dyed. They may be dyed with one
colour, or a great variety of colours. Dyeing may be done industrially, by hand or even hand-
painted onto the yarn. A great variety of synthetic dyes have Fig. 8.hand dyed acrylic in different
shades
been developed since the synthesis of indigo dye in the mid-
19th century; however, natural dyes are often favoured, although they are generally less
brilliant. The colour-scheme of a yarn is sometimes called its colour way. Variegated yarns
can produce interesting visual effects, such as diagonal stripes; conversely, a variegated yarn
may frustrate an otherwise good knitting pattern by producing distasteful colour
combinations.

7.0 TEXTURING OF YARNS:

The introduction of synthetic fibres, which can be heat set in a

permanent configuration, has led to the development of texturing
process that directly convert these filaments into bulked yarns,
thus bypassing the staple fibre spinning process. During
texturing, the filaments are disturbed from their parallel formation
and are permanently set in configurations such as crimps or coils
that help to entrap pockets of air and confer properties such as
bulkiness, soft handle, porosity, drape, cover, opacity and
Fig. 9.textured fancy yarns elasticity to the resultant yarn. Examples of yarn of this type
include false twist nylon and Crimplene, the latter being a
registered trade name for a technique whereby the properties of the textured polyester yarn
are modified during a second heat setting operation so that the stitch clarity, handle and
stability of the fabric are improved.

The development of synthetic fibres and of their texturing processes has proved particularly
beneficial to the knitting industry and has resulted in a close association between the two
industries. The most recent development is the widespread use of Lycra to support the elastic
properties of knitted garments.

8.0 FANCY YARNS:

These fancy yarns are available in different coloured fibres that are blended together and then
are spun to create a single stand of yarn. These yarns can be dyed in different colours and are
available as per the choice of the clients.

9.0 DEFECTS DUE TO YARNS: Fig. 10. Pompon yarns-type of fancy

yarns
10.0. LATEST GLOBAL BRANDS OF YARNS FOR KNITTING:

• Bernat
• Lion brand
• Dbny
• Red heart
• Wolford

11.0 RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT:

Walter Palmers and Reinhold Wolf, founded Wolford in Bregenz, a decade or so after
nylon stockings had made their first appearance. Frequently at the forefront of hosiery
developments, Wolford has always blended technological developments with innovation
and an extensive quality control system. In the beginning Wolford simply adapted its
knitting machines to produce a higher quality standard, which often proved difficult to
replicate or copy.

2009 Research Shows: Younger Consumers Spur Increase in Yarn

Projects

The Craft Yarn Council of America

The latest numbers from Craft Yarn Council of America's (CYCA) 2005 Consumer
Tracking Study show that knitting and crochet project numbers were up 13% last year,
and the biggest increases in activity were in the under-35, 55-64 and 65 and older age
groups.

Spurred by the dramatic increase in activity in 2005, CYCA decided to break its
traditional bi-annual study schedule to get a more current look on activity and
preferences. "What we found was a rapidly growing younger group of consumers, and
dramatic increases in the purchase of fashion yarns," says John Laurie, chairman of
CYCA. "Coupled with the projected increase in number of projects, this all indicates a
continuation of the growth with new, younger consumers who will be with us for many
years to come."
CYCA commissioned Research Incorporated of Atlanta, GA, to conduct its seventh study
to reveal current and projected consumer activity. Interviews were completed in October
and November of 2005, and the survey questions closely paralleled those asked in 1994,
1996, 1998, 2000, 2002, and 2004. In-depth telephone interviews were conducted with
400 active knitters who purchased yarn AND knitted or crocheted a project during the
past year. Random calls, supplemented with a list of consumers interested in needlecraft
from Experian's nationwide Behaviour Bank database ensured that data collected in this
research is projectable nationally.

"Our goal was again to describe yarn usage and shopping patterns, identify the most
popular projects and expenditures, track changes in basic and fashion yarn usage, and
provide information on future plans," says Mary Colucci, CYCA's Executive Director.
"Most important, the results always show us the important opportunities for both retailers
and suppliers."

Reflecting hot trends in fashion and home decor, scarves and afghans were among the
most popular projects. This latest survey showed increases in the number of projects in
every project category, an average of 17.3 projects, versus 2004's 15.3, with afghans,
blankets and throws remaining the favourite project among all knitters (55% made at least
one). Baby blankets and scarves were made by 50% of respondents. This last figure
marks a 14 percentage point increase in the number of scarves made in 2005.

This trend fueled a huge increase in sales of fashion yarns (defined as yarn with
interesting textures, such as fur looks, metallics, chenilles and boucles), as 42% purchased
fashion yarns in 2005, compared to 27% in 2004; a 56% increase. These increases were
across all age groups, although knitters tended to purchase more fashion yarns than
crocheters. Most respondents spent between $2 and $7 per skein, mirroring the 2004
results. However, while only 11% or respondents purchased yarns between $7 - $9.99 in
2004, this number increased to 14% in 2005. Knitters and crocheters spent the most
money on afghans and throws in 2005 ($36.07 average), followed by sweaters and vests
($34.77), ponchos ($26.61), shawls ($22.28), baby blankets ($20.42) and scarves
($16.85).

Respondents got their project ideas from many sources, but the top choice with 39% was
small format pattern books, an increase of 63%. This was followed by magazines, with
35% (a 40% increase), and friends with 24%. Another popular place for ideas and
networking was the Internet, where 31% went to get ideas, find patterns, purchase yarn
and supplies, and network with other knitters and crocheters. In particular, they were
more than twice as likely to use the Internet to find patterns and purchase yarn and
supplies in 2010 than in 2009.

Indicative of the continuing excitement, 80% of crocheters and knitters interviewed were
planning to make as many or more projects. This response was unanimous across all age
groups.

"The research shows women are spending more money on knit and crochet projects, and
doing more of them, but the challenge is to keep our customers returning for more to
maintain this level of participation and enthusiasm," comments John Laurie. "There are
three significant opportunities for our retailers: offering classes (since only 17% of
respondents are very satisfied in that area), having knowledgeable employees (only 27%
are very satisfied), and stocking up-to-date patterns (54% are very satisfied)."
The changing sophistication of the craft yarn consumer is reflected in the types of classes
they'd like to see. While 23% are looking for basic knitting and crochet classes, 28% want
a general, less-structured clinic, and 29% were interested in advanced techniques.

12.0. CONCLUSION:

The period from mid-1960s to 1973 is often regarded as knitters as a ‘golden age’
because fashionable demand for textiles composed of synthetic fibres reached a peak
during that period.

"Armed with the above research information, the industry can move forward with even
more innovative programs in the future," says Mary Colucci. "We've already got a craft
that offers stress relief, creativity, beautiful materials and a social atmosphere. The
community nurture through CYCA's web sites and message boards, and will continue to
introduce programs such as 'Progressions' to stimulate excitement at retail. We all know
that working together is the key to taking this industry to even higher levels of success."

13.0. REFERENCES:

• Spencer,J.D.,Knitting Technology,2001,Sept.,110-12.
• Ajgaonkar,D.B.,Knitting technology,2006.
• Knitting Views,Aug,2009
• http://knitting.about.com/od/yarn/Types_of_Knitting_Yarn.htm
• http://www.woolneedlework.com/Buy_Knitting_Yarn.htm
• http://www.dailyknitter.com/article22.html