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Image-Transfer
WORKS ON METAL AND METAL CLAY
Technique for Metal
Use image-transfer solution to add
photocopies to your metal jewelry.
by Sherri Haab
A
fter jamming two photocopiers with
decal-transfer paper at my local copy
center, I knew I’d have to find a different
approach to achieving my goal of adding
images to metal clay and other metal surfaces.
My failed attempts motivated me to keep
searching for a better method.
Eventually, I stumbled upon just the right
solution — a water-based transfer-agent
© 2008 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in
any form without permission from the publisher.
beginner
metal clay/metal
The panels of this bracelet are decorated
with 3 ⁄4 x 7 ⁄ 8 -in. (19 x 22 mm) image
transfers of copyright-free pictures.
solution that could be used with a certain type
of laser copy paper. I experimented with the
solution and this paper until I developed a
technique to successfully transfer photocopied
images onto metal clay.
My technique works with copies of your own
photographs, artwork, or copyright-free art.
The resulting durable image looks as though it’s
printed directly on the metal’s surface.
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 materials
Before you start ■

■
ITS laser copy paper
Fired metal clay piece with a flat surface,
■ Select high-contrast images (i.e., they have well-defined areas of dark and or metal sheet
light) that are sharply focused with crisp lines. ■ Image Transfer Solution

tools & supplies

TIP: Use the “mirror” setting on the photocopier to make ■ Brass brush
copies that will have the same orientation as the original ■ Wet/dry sandpaper: 600 grit
after they are transferred. This is particularly important if ■ Soft cotton cloth
you are copying text! ■ Paintbrush: flat tip
■ Hair dryer (optional)
■ Use either a color or black-and-white toner-based photocopier to make copies ■ Oven, toaster oven, or craft heat tool
onto Image Transfer Solution (ITS) laser copy paper. Ink-jet copies do not work ■ Wet/dry polishing paper: 1200 grit
with this process! ■ Liver of sulfur (optional)
■ The copy paper you need for this project is a little thicker than average copy ■ Renaissance wax (optional)
paper. You may need to set the photocopier on its “thicker” paper setting to
prevent paper jams.
suppliers
■ Practice this transfer technique on scrap metal to get a feel for the process.
■ Image Transfer Solution, ITS laser
copy paper (www.sherrihaab.com,
www.pmcsupply.com)

1
■ Craft heat tool (local craft stores)
Prepare the metal’s surface ■ Sandpaper, polishing paper
(Rio Grande, 800.545.6566,
www.riogrande.com)
■ Renaissance wax
(Restoration Products, 772.219.0436,
www.restorationproduct.com)

Use 600-grit sandpaper to remove all

Images adhere better to a surface that is
flat and slightly rough. Rub a dry brass
brush over the area of the metal where
you’ll place your image.
dirt and oils from the image area of the
metal and to give the surface tooth.
This area shouldn’t have any shiny
spots. Rinse the metal with water to
remove the sandpaper dust, and then
dry the metal with a soft cloth.

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2
Transfer the image

Process photos by Sherri Haab.

Cut your photocopied image to match
the dimensions of the image area of
your metal. Brush an even layer (about
1 mm thick) of Image Transfer Solution
onto the image area of your metal.
While the solution is still wet, proceed
to the next step.
Press your photocopy image-side down
onto the wet solution. Use your fingers
to carefully apply pressure to the paper,
pressing from the center of the paper
outward to the edges to remove any
air bubbles. The paper should be in full
contact with the metal to achieve a
good transfer.

Remove excess solution from the back of Next, you need to heat-set the image
the paper and from the paper’s edges, to make a durable transfer. Place the metal
using the corner of a damp paper towel. in a preheated oven (or toaster oven) set to
325°F (163°C), and bake for 30 minutes.
NOTE: Excess solution left on the back of
the paper will make the paper more NOTE: As an alternative to using an oven,
difficult to remove later. Also, excess place the assembly on a heat-resistant
solution on the metal will act as a resist to surface and use a heat gun (craft heat tool)
any patina you might want to add later. to cure the piece for about 2 minutes.

Allow the paper to dry completely. You IMPORTANT: Allow the piece to cool
can either let it dry overnight or use a hair completely before you do the next step!
dryer to speed up the process.

Soak the cooled assembly in water for
about 10 minutes. Then remove the
assembly from the water and use your
fingers to gently rub the paper off,
working from the center outward. Dip
the assembly in water and use your
fingernails to scrape away any remain-
ing paper, but be careful not to remove
the edges of the image.
After you remove the paper, a thin layer
of paper fibers will remain, leaving a
white film over your image. Working
underwater (I’ve removed the assembly
from the water to show this step), use
a piece of 1200-grit wet/dry abrasive
polishing paper to remove the remain-
ing paper fibers. Don’t rub too hard or
sand too long, or you could begin to
remove some of your image. If you
have difficulty with this step, see
“Troubleshooting Tips,” page 4.

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3 Finish your piece
Dry the surface of your piece with a soft
cotton cloth. If desired, add a liver of
sulfur patina to the metal according to
the manufacturer’s instructions. Rinse
and dry the piece.
Whether or not you patinate your piece
with liver of sulfur, you need to seal the
image. Either use the cloth to apply a
light coat of Renaissance wax, or apply
a coat of transfer solution.  • Press the paper into the wet
Sherri Haab is a
best-selling craft
author who has
published more
than 22 books.
She’s also a
certified metal
clay instructor
who leads numerous craft and
jewelry-making workshops interna-
tionally. Haab has released DVDs on
working with both metal clay and
resin and has appeared on several
television programs (HGTV, DIY, and
PBS). She lives with her family in
Springville, Utah. You can contact
her through her Web site,
www.sherrihaab.com.
online extra
To watch a video tutorial
on how to add a liver of
sulfur patina to metal, go to
www.artjewelrymag.com/howto.
troubleshooting
tips
To successfully transfer an
image to metal, make sure to:
• Use toner-based copies instead of
ink-jet copies.
• Rough up the surface of your
metal, and sand it to remove
dirt and oils before you transfer
your image.
• Apply a thick enough layer of
transfer solution to the metal.
If you brush on only a very thin
layer, the image will not transfer to
the metal properly.
solution so that the paper makes
complete contact with the surface
of the metal.
• Heat-set the image according to
the project instructions, and be
sure to allow the heat-set assem-
bly to cool completely before you
attempt to remove the copy paper.
What if...
The paper won’t come off?
• Excess transfer solution probably
dried to the back of your paper. If
you can’t remove the paper, see
the next suggestion.
You’re not satisfied with the result
of your image transfer? No problem.
• Start over. Simply use 600-grit
wet/dry sandpaper to wet-sand
the image off the surface of
your metal.
The liver of sulfur solution left a
spotty patina?
• Excess transfer solution has dried
on the surface of the metal and
acted as a resist when you added
your patina.
• See the previous suggestion to
learn how to remove your image.
• Then, be careful to remove all
excess transfer solution before
you heat-set your image.
• Or, remove your unwanted image
and then add the liver of sulfur
patina to the metal before you
transfer your new image. Rough
up and clean the image area of
your piece. Then apply transfer
solution and transfer the image.
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