Dual Mode Hydrogen Generator

SuperKit9

Please read this manual thoroughly and carefully before beginning. It contains useful tips
and safety information, especially related to chemical selection, necessary for the extended
use of this device.

About Green Source

Source is a technology firm dedicated to providing high quality, professional products at low prices. Our priorities
are a strong commitment to safety, environment and customer value. We strongly support the education and
awareness of the public to the importance of renewable energy.

Last Manual Update: Apr 17th 2011

www.greensource.ca
Before You Start

While the recommended chemicals have been chosen for safety and
accessibility, it is important to remember that, even though it may be perfectly
safe for you, you may still be creating a hazard for other people and pets.
Please be careful and don’t leave this device or any chemicals unattended.

We at Green Source take no one’s safety for granted and so explains the overly
cautious nature of this manual.

While hydrogen generation makes for a great science experiment, it is not

meant to be used by unsupervised children!

Pre-Installation Check List

Pre-plan your installation and gather any necessary tools before you start the actual work.

NOTE: Green Source also sells a budget version of this kit called a Basic generator. It operates the same
way as SuperKit9 but does not come with the components of the SuperKit. However, a fuse and a
flashback arrestor are important and are recommended.

This kit should operate with either a 10 amp or 15 amp fuse.

1. Tools and equipment that are helpful: voltmeter, electrical tape, wire crimping tool, drill & drill
bits, selection of screws and screw drivers and wire cutters (side cutters).
2. Determine where you will position the generator. This should be away from engine heat as much
as possible to allow for coolest operation. Positioning near the front of the engine compartment generally
provides the maximum air flow and cooling. Most important is to keep any wiring and hoses away from
moving parts (fans etc) and high heat sources such as exhaust manifolds. Other popular spots include near
the firewall and brake booster.
3. Determine how you will secure it in place: bungee cords or large tie wraps are good options.
4. Determine where to inject the HHO into the car’s air stream. Usually the air intake OR air filter
housing are good choices.
5. Find a 12 volt electrical source, preferably, an ignition switched 12 volt electrical point to power
the generator. A switched point means a place where the power turns on and off automatically when you
turn on the key. Look in the fuse box for a connection terminal that turns on and off with the key. You
can check this point with a volt meter, looking for 12Volts OR a test light OR a simple 12Volt light bulb,
if you have neither equipment mentioned. While attaching directly to the battery and using the toggle
switch is safe and convenient, it’s only a matter of time before you leave it on and wake up to a dead
battery in your car. Also, it prevents the possibility of pooling up HHO in the air intake when parked, for
example, while refueling. While unlikely to damage anything, it can result in an alarming backfire noise
from the engine.
7. Determine where you would like to position the illuminated toggle switch.
Quick Install Overview
1 Installing the Generator
Generator secured near front for best air
circulation, hoses and wires neatly and safely
routed and secured. HHO hose and flashback
arrestor are mounted close to the engine in the
air intake.

2 Installing the Flashback Arrestor

A Flash Back/Check Valve is always
recommended. The flash back valve could save
the generator, and maybe you, if the engine
creates a spark.
Test the valve for flow direction before
installing it by blowing through it. It will block
air/gas flow in the reverse direction. Flow is
‘towards’ the wider half of the body as shown
at left.

See a typical flashback arrestor installed at left.

Many installers cut a small length of hose, ie.

30 cm so the flashback arrestor is installed
close to the vehicle’s air intake as shown.
 3 Connecting Generator to Air Intake

See a typical HHO hose installation neatly

injecting into the air stream through a tight, 3/8
hole.
The hole should be sealed with silicone even
though it is probably already leak free.
Most modern vehicles have well sealed air
intake systems. You simply need to drill a
small hole (3/8 inch) into the air intake system,
usually after the air filter, close to the engine
but BEFORE any turbo charger you may have.
Then feed the hydrogen hose into it, secure the
hose well with tie wraps and seal the hole with
silicone.
Make sure the generator is well secured and
any wires/hoses are not in danger of heat from
exhaust manifolds, moving parts such as the
fan etc.
On a carbureted vehicle, the vinyl hose can
then be routed to the air intake as on a fuel
injected vehicle, or as shown at left, can be
patched into the PCV hose with a “tee”
connector. This is for “Positive Crankcase
Ventilation” and will draw the hydrogen
directly inside the carburetor, where it cannot
escape.
You could try running it into the air filter on
top of the carburetor, but this will probably
NOT work since hydrogen is half the weight
of helium and when let loose will try to ascend
at 70 km/h (45 mph). The down draft of the
engine’s vacuum may not be enough to draw in
the hydrogen and it will escape.

4 Wiring
Green Source generators are designed to be high performance while still very cost effective. One step in
achieving that was making an efficient generator that does NOT require excessive current to operate. As a
result, there is no need for an automotive wiring relay to operate this kit, saving you installation time and
money.

The first thing you should do is to add a fuse as close to the battery or power source as possible. Not
greater than 10 AMPS to start. You may later increase this safely once you have determined your
chemical and understand how much heat is generated.
It is impossible to predict your application but automotive supplementation customers represent the
majority, so additional hardware aiding installation has been included.
10 feet of primary wire can be used or cut as needed to make use of the toggle switch.
Unconnected crimp connectors are included as not to limit your particular application.
The toggle switch, if the illuminated type should connect as follows: the positive battery terminal goes to
the PWR (+ve) terminal (preferably ignition ‘switched’ power if you can locate it). Connect the generator
to the “ACC” (middle) terminal and “GND” goes to ground but this is only required to illuminate the
toggle switch.

The OPTIONAL loop shown is actually a

water trap and will help collect any moisture or
potential spills in case you overfill, go over a
bump etc.

The loop needs to be BELOW both the level of

the generator lid and the input of the engine so
the water and/or electrolyte cannot flow and
make its way to the engine’s air intake. .
Safety
1. Most important is eye protection. Although it is unlikely to splash
the solution and even more unlikely to splash it into your eyes, but the
consequence could be severe. Please wear eye protection when working with
chemicals at all times. Fortunately, these chemicals would rinse out with
water if needed.
2. The mixture you will be using can be near the high end of the pH scale
- highly alkaline. It will react with your skin and potentially cause a skin
irritation. We strongly recommend using rubber gloves. Even small amounts of aqueous NaOH/KOH
on your fingers, although it will not burn, will create a very slippery film that increases the chances of an
accident. You could also end up touching your eye, nose etc.
3. Don’t use this device anywhere you can’t tolerate a spill! Pets, children and guests create
unpredictable circumstances. Make sure the area is spill friendly.
4. This unit produces hydrogen and oxygen in stoichiometric (perfect) proportions. It has been
referred to as ‘boom’ gas for a reason. If you are collecting the gas, for example in a balloon, take care
that it doesn’t ignite on you. It sounds like a canon!
6. KEEP AWAY FROM CHILDREN
7. The use of a flash back arrestor is recommended. These are also available through Green Source
and are included in some kits. USE a FUSE, 10 or 15 amps maximum.
A flash back arrestor could prevent your application from sending a flame back into the rector, in the
unlikely event that it sparked. Carbureted vehicles are more likely to backfire than modern fuel injected
types. The “water loop” demonstrated in this manual is useful, but do NOT attempt to use it if you are
connecting to a vacuum line. Your engine will suck the water right in from the hose. In fact, your
generator is NOT RECOMMENDED to use under heavy vacuum conditions. It is preferred to connect to
the air intake of your vehicle. Many users simply inject into the air filter compartment.

Electrolysis Mode VS Chemical Mode

Electrolysis Mode offers ease of use, simple and fast on-off operation more suitable for short trips, less
intense chemicals but lower flow rate (hydrogen production). Electrolysis makes HHO (called Brown’s
gas). In most modern vehicles (ie those equipped with an oxygen (O2) sensor) the computer will detect the
increase of oxygen present in the exhaust system and attempt to counter it by adding more fuel. This is
exactly what you DON’T want. Typically, vehicles still enjoy a noticeable increase in power/fuel
economy even with the extra oxygen present. If you are determined to squeeze all that can be had from
this technology, you may want to consider adding a fuel injection enhancer.

Chemical Mode offers very high hydrogen output and simple, electricity free operation. Oxygen
produced forms an oxide on the aluminum resulting in pure H2 being released. This mode will result in
the greatest gains for automotive applications due to high flow rate and O2 free output. It does not load
the alternator as does the electrolysis mode resulting in even higher efficiency. It only works with a
strong chemical (NaOH) that needs to be handled very carefully.
Set Up and Use
1. Determine what electrolyte (chemical) is best suited to you. Add 2 tablespoon of baking soda to 1
litre of distilled water and mix thoroughly in a large plastic container. You may add the 3rd tablespoon
once you are sure you are not overheating after 1 hour of use.
If using NaOH/KOH, add ½ to 1 teaspoon. Let the mixture cool for 10 minutes before use. Any mixing
container you use should be considered non fit for food and beverages afterwards. It IS acceptable to mix
chemicals right inside the generator. You should use PWM, if using NaOH/KOH to control HHO,
current and heat.
2. Slowly pour in 1 litre of mixed water solution created in the previous step.
3. Attach the electrode pack to the electrical connections inside of the rubber lid. It is VERY
important to make sure the nuts are tight and do not come loose during operation. This could create a
dangerous spark!
4. Close the lid. Secure the generator in place in the chosen location with large tie wraps or a
stretchable cord.
5. Attach the power wires, toggle switch and fuse and connect to a switched electrical source. The
fuse should be as close to the power source as possible. This makes it safe to put the toggle switch inside
the passenger compartment for convenience.
6. Drill a small hole (3/8 typical for the tubing in your air intake, close to the engine. This can be in
the air filter housing or plastic hose close to the engine. Insert the tubing into the hole, approximately 3
cm (1 inch) and secure with a tie wrap so it cannot move. You will need to seal the hole with silicone or
similar to prevent leaks. Silicone should sit over night to dry before starting the engine. NOTE: You may
need a smaller ‘pilot’ hole of ¼ inch, before drilling the 3/8.
7. Don’t force any hose or other connecting device over the output port. 1/4 OR 5/16 soft vinyl or
rubber hose is the correct size and should attach quite easily. A drop of oil over the hydrogen output port
will make it easier to install/remove the vinyl hose.
8. Tie wrap or tape all hoses and wires such that they cannot move and touch moving/hot engine
components.
9. If you use the generator in a truck, heavy equipment or have driving habits such that the electrode
pack may bang around inside the generator, consider using the included rubber band bumper. This will
prevent the electrode pack from abruptly hitting the glass liner, potentially cracking it. To do this, position
the rubber band around the bottom of the electrode pack, below the screw, so that the rubber acts as a
protective barrier between the metal plates and glass.
10. REFILLS. Approximately every 400 miles you will need to add more water. Chemicals last
much longer and you only top up with distilled water. However, the chemicals also slowly get consumed
and you will need to add a little chemical with each top up. (Mix before adding to generator) In general
this is 1/6 or about 15% of the original amount of chemical. For example, if you added 100 grams of
baking soda to start, you will add 15 grams with each refill.

Finding a “Switched” Electrical Source

If you’re not familiar with wiring, read this section carefully. While it is simple and fast to connect
directly to the battery, and use your toggle switch to turn the generator off, it is not recommended. This is
because you will inevitably forget your generator on and create a dangerous build up of HHO or you will
find your car with a dead battery in the morning after making HHO all night. Green Source strongly
recommends attaching to a switched power source, that turns on and off with your ignition key.
 1. You should have a mechanics test light if possible or a volt meter to find a spot in the fuse box that
turns on/off with the key. If you do not have this, you can borrow a meter or get a cheap test light
from most dollar stores.
2. Find a connection or fuse in the electrical panel that turns on/off with the key, preferably a non
critical circuit such as ‘radio’, power window etc. Not ‘fuel injection’ or some critical circuit (that
if you blow the fuse) will make your car stop!
3. You need to make sure you do not
‘load’ the circuit. Every fuse already
has a purpose and a load, so you
cannot put two loads on one circuit or
the fuse will blow every time. You
must find the ‘hot’ side of the fuse.
Do this by removing the fuse and
retesting with the test light. Only one
side of the fuse holder (in fuse box)
will be turn on with the key. That is
the hot side of the fuse and you will
connect here. As your specific vehicle
is unknown, we cannot include
hardware to assist in this connection.
Your installation may be easier and more robust if you consider a ‘fuse tap’ such as that pictured
below. These are available at automotive parts stores, on eBay or anywhere on the web.

Chemical Mode (Pure H2) Operation

Set Up and Use
Remove the electrode pack from the generator! Do this by removing only the FIRST nut from each
electrical terminal, inside the lid. The second nuts NEVER get removed. The electrical connector always
goes between the two nuts on both terminals. Finger tighten or gently tighten with pliers.

This generator is designed to make substantial amounts of hydrogen on demand. That means the
hydrogen is consumed as it is produced. The production of hydrogen will vary greatly, depending on your
set up. The stronger the concentration of NaOH, the faster the reaction! As for aluminum, surface area is
the key. A big cube of aluminum has lots of mass but little surface area and will generate hydrogen very
slowly and will not react completely. Lots of small clean pieces, drill press shavings or filings will react
the fastest. You have to find the balance between long run times and good flow rates.

TIP
Try lots of aluminum foil at first. It’s clean too! Later, make friends with someone at a machine shop and
gather their aluminum shavings from the drill press.

Mix NaOH and water solution first, then add the aluminum. Put the water in the jar FIRST, then very
slowly add the NaOH! It may get hot at first so wait a few minutes between scoops until you get used to
it. A concentration of 18% by weight is ideal FOR FASTEST REACTIONS (225g NaOH per liter
water)

Note: Use about 75g-100g/Litre for longer run times.

Be careful not to overfill as the aluminum will displace some of the solution, potentially creating a nasty
mess. You must keep the solution level well below the threaded portion of the jar or you will have
solution being pushed out the hydrogen gas port instead of gas! It is best to keep the solution level about
1 ½ to 2 inches below the top of the liner. If you have a non-stationary application, start with a ½ to 2/3
reservoir, ONLY add more once you are sure it is not spilling.

To Shut Off Chemical Mode

You will need to remove the aluminum from the generator and NaOH/water mixture. This can be done in
a number of ways, but most customers use a plastic mesh onion bag or similar to easily remove the
aluminum. Still it is somewhat messy and most customers use chemical mode for testing and trips where
starting and stopping are not such a nuisance. No generator (HHO OR Pure H2) should be operated while
the vehicle in not running. Dangerous gases could collect up inside the engine!

Electrical Mode (Normal) Operation

Use Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda), NOT Sodium Hydroxide for Electrolysis
Unless you are an advanced user and are using a Pulse Width Modulator (PWM), you should only use
baking soda as your electrolyte. Highly efficient electrolytes such as Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) and
Potassium Hydroxide (KOH) are very conductive and allow high amounts of current. This could boil the
water, blow fuses or burn your wires if you do not control it with PWM.

How To Choose Your Electrolyte

1. Start With Baking Soda. It is simple, safe, easy and cheap. If you can’t get enough HHO flow (5
amps or MORE) then:
2. Get some Potassium Carbonate. It is much more efficient, makes more HHO and is still SAFE to
use
3. If you need high output, use NaOH (sodium hydroxide) or KOH (potassium hydroxide) ONLY
AFTER reading and studying the included necessary safety precautions.

Each of these chemical is approximately 2 grams/ml in density, so a tablespoon = 30 grams.

Typically you will use a mixture as follows:

Baking Soda: 2 tablespoons (to start) per litre of water (3 Maximum) OR
NaOH: ¾ tablespoons (to start) per litre (1.5 maximum) OR
KOH: ½ tablespoons (to start) per litre (1.0 maximum)

Note, these are guidelines and you should start with less until you are familiar with the process. Half the
above mentioned amounts will be a good starting point. Also with NaOH/KOH, you will probably require
a PWM controller to limit current, HHO flow rate and heat. Over driving the generator by use of too
much chemicals can be dangerous.
Helpful NaHCO3 (aka Sodium Bicorbonate, Baking Soda) Information
For generators with higher output electrode configurations you will probably want to use more baking
soda to achieve desired results. This is because your higher efficiency electrode depends in part on your
electrolyte being highly conductive.

1 mL = 1 cm 3
1 US teaspoon (tsp) = 4.93 mL
1 US tablespoon (tbsp) = 14.79 ml
NaHCO3 Density = 2.16g/mL so a TBSP is about 30g

A baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and water solution will saturate at approximately 8 g/100 mL or 80g/
Liter. Adding more bicarbonate than this will not increase conductivity or cause harm to the generator.
Therefore, for 1L of water use UP TO 3 tbsp for a saturated solution. We suggest 2 tbsp to start.

Note, the addition of baking soda to the water will lower the freezing point, but because of the low
solubility of baking soda in water, it is not effective as an antifreeze.

Maintaining Proper Electrolyte Temperature and Current

5-6 amps to start is typical at room temperature and will increase to about 9 amps when fully warmed up.
If you don’t have a current meter, check the generator with your hand at 15, 30, 45 and 60 minutes of
operation. It should get warm to very warm, not hot. At 60 Celsius it becomes difficult to touch for more
than 1 second. Conveniently, this is your recommended maximum operating temperature since chemicals
can start to break down beyond this point. If you don’t overheat the generator, you only need to add
distilled water at fill up time. Chemicals will last for many refills if not overheated and cleaning will be
MUCH easier, so it is well worth understanding this process.
If you make too little HHO, you will not achieve full benefit. Too much and you will boil your water
and need to replace your chemicals. It’s best to start with less chemicals and increase gradually.

The target is 0.25 to 0.5 liters/minute per liter of engine size. In a vehicle you should expect to see 4-7
amps typically running to the generator when you start it. NOTE: This can increase 50% once hot, so it is
important that you monitor this until you get used to using it.

If you are using KOH/NaOH as an electrolyte, you may want to consider using a Pulse Width Modulator.
(PWM) They allow you to operate at higher flow rates and cooler temperatures.

Electrode Maintenance
While distilled water is best, rain or tap water is OK too. There will be a little more cleaning to do, that’s
all. Do NOT use water with a heavy mineral content as the calcium or lime will corrode and form
deposits on the electrode pack. This in turn, slowly forms a short circuit and causes to draw more current
and have wasted heat inside the generator to contend with.
To clean the generator, remove it from the vehicle and drain its contents. Half fill with a vinegar or CLR
and water mixture and shake in the generator. Let stand for 20 minutes, drain and rinse with water.

Heat is your enemy! The unfortunate problem with 12 volt electrolysis is that the majority of electrical
energy used goes into heat production, not electrolysis. While more current makes more hydrogen, we
always need to be mindful of the heat not to have a mishap. This high efficiency electrode pack gets you
double the hydrogen output for any given current consumption and substantially lowered wasted heat
dissipation!

Cleaning the Generator

If you do not overheat your generator, cleanings should be infrequent, just once or twice per year. In
general, distilled water will be cleaner than mineral water for your generator. Also, baking soda has
carbon; therefore it operates less cleanly than does KOH/NaOH. This may be a consideration in your
decision of what electrolyte to use.

A basic cleaning can be done by half filling the empty generator with vinegar and connecting the power
for about 10 minutes.

A thorough cleaning can be achieved by mixing 4 heaping tablespoons of Mortons Iodized table salt and
1 heaping tablespoon of Citric Acid with 1 litre of Hot Tap Water. Carefully pour into your generator
then start and run it for 5 minutes. Solution will turn almost black. Empty cleaning solution, and you will
have to fill and empty the generator with cool tap water several times, or until there are no particles of
carbon or oxide coming out.

Of course, you can always disassemble the pack at any time for a light sanding or scrubbing.

Dealing With Heat

Your generator utilizes electrolysis. You should know that, while this system has been made as efficient as
possible, it still generates heat. That heat needs to dissipate somewhere. The more HHO it generates, the
more heat will be created. We suggest starting with a 10 amp fuse until you get used to it. If you run the
generator too hard (high current and high output) and do not add a fuse, you could melt the wires.

The basic rules to minimize heat build up are:

• Do NOT operate above the recommended output flow and current rate levels of 5 to 10 amps
• Install in a well ventilated location, as far away as possible from hot surfaces such as the engine
and exhaust manifold.
• If you demand high output, use a PWM.

Remember that all resistive elements, especially crimp connectors, will get warm, even hot once you get
above 10 amps. Ensure all connections are clean and secure.
Dealing With Cold. Winter Operation
The generator contains water, which if left untreated, will freeze in winter climates. Here’s what you can
do to avoid that.

If using baking soda, add isopropyl alcohol to the water. A mixture of 50-50 water and isopropyl alcohol
will yield a -30C (-25F) freezing point. The disadvantage of this is option is that baking soda does not
dissolve in alcohol. The result will be somewhat less current (and HHO) during winter months but is less
of a concern if you have a smaller engine. Larger engines may realize a smaller benefit during winter
when using water and alcohol with baking soda. KOH/NaOH is recommended on larger engines (>3.0
Litres) during winter months if possible.

If using KOH or NaOH, very low freezing points can be achieved by increasing the concentration of
chemicals. The results are similar for both chemicals. Note: No alcohol is required with KOH/NaOH.

Simply put, each rounded tablespoon (40g) of KOH will lower the freezing point of one (1) litre of water
3.7C. (6.7F)

It is somewhat more complicated, so here are some real data points to use.

Dissolve in a litre of water:

1 TBSP KOH = 30g = -2.8C
2 TBSP KOH = 60g = -5.6C
3 TBSP KOH = 90g = -8.3C
4 TBSP KOH = 120g = -11.1C
5 TBSP KOH = 150g = -13.9C
6 TBSP KOH = 180g = -16.7C
7 TBSP KOH = 210g = -19.4C
8 TBSP KOH = 240g = -22.4C

These are HIGHLY conductive solutions and require the use of a PWM controller.

Try this handy calculator yourself:

http://koh.olinchloralkali.com/TechnicalInformation/PhaseDiagram.aspx
then click “Online Calculator”
Remember 1 litre of water is 1000 grams and a tablespoon of KOH is 30 grams.
% = mass(g) of KOH / (mass(g) of KOH + 1000) where 1000g is the weight of the water

Electrolytes Overview
HHO generation requires the electrolysis of water, H20. Distilled water is recommended, but you can use
tap water to start. The only consequence of using tap water is that you will need to clean the electrode
pack sooner.
Electrolysis is dependant on current flow, which in turn is dependant upon the conductivity of the water.
Since water is a non conductor, you need to add electrolytes (chemicals) to your water to increase current
flow to a usable rate. Green Source generators work with a variety of electrolytes, each with their own
advantages and disadvantages.

To demonstrate this point, here are some measured current flows with your electrode pack:

Distilled Water 0.2 Amps

Rain Water 0.3 Amps
Well (mineral)Water 0.5 Amps
Add 3 Tbsp Baking Soda 7.1 amps (good)

In order of increasing strength (which also means increased efficiency and personal hazard), they are:

This is the first choice if you are starting out or do not need the highest possible output.
Baking It will be suitable for 80-90% of people, even once they become more experienced. It
Soda is the safest, cheapest, easiest, most available solution that requires no additional
Sodium equipment to be added to your generator. Higher efficiency electrolytes often require a
Bicarbonate, PWM (pulse width modulator) to be added to control the HHO flow and prevent
NaHCO3 excessive heat generation. If overheated (>70C) it can off-gas CO2 and dissipate a
brown sediment that does not affect operation (other than eventually lowering the
output) but looks terrible. You will eventually need to replace the water and electrolyte
when this happens.

is a great 2nd choice. Non-toxic, highly effective and somewhat easy to source.
Potassium Potassium carbonate (K2CO3) is a white salt, soluble in water (insoluble in alcohol),
Carbonate which forms a strongly alkaline solution. It can be made as the product of potassium
K2CO3 hydroxide's absorbent reaction with carbon dioxide. It is deliquescent, often appearing
a damp or wet solid. Potassium carbonate is used in the production of soap and glass
and is probably the best overall choice for electrolytes, considering safety, effectiveness
and availability. Usually a specialty order item, see eBay or other online chemical
sources.
 also called “lye”, a very efficient electrolyte, highly conductive and HIGHLY
Sodium CAUSTIC. It is also known as caustic soda, is a caustic metallic base. It is used in
Hydroxide many industries, mostly as a strong chemical base in the manufacture of pulp and
NaOH paper, textiles, drinking water, soaps and detergents and as a drain cleaner. Sodium
hydroxide is a common base in chemical laboratories. Pure sodium hydroxide is a
white solid; available in pellets, flakes, granules and as a 50% saturated solution. It is
hygroscopic and readily absorbs water from the air, so it should be stored in an airtight
container. It is very soluble in water with liberation of heat. It also dissolves in ethanol
and methanol, though it exhibits lower solubility in these solvents than does potassium
hydroxide. Molten sodium hydroxide is also a strong base, but the high temperature
required limits applications. It is insoluble in ether and other non-polar solvents. A
sodium hydroxide solution will leave a yellow stain on fabric and paper. Find this in
agriculture stores or in grocery stores labeled “Red Devil” drain cleaner.

is the most efficient of the commonly used electrolytes, some 40% better than NaOH.
Potassium KOH is considered a dangerous good and subject to shipping regulations in most
Hydroxide countries. Available on eBay and online chemical distribution centers KOH is an
KOH inorganic compound with the formula KOH. Along with sodium hydroxide, this
colorless solid is a prototypical "strong base". Most applications exploit its reactivity
toward acids and its corrosive nature. KOH is noteworthy as the precursor to most soft
and liquid soaps as well as numerous potassium-containing chemicals.

While baking soda and potassium carbonate are very safe, you must use extra caution if using highly
efficient electrolytes (Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) or Potassium Hydroxide (KOH)). These two chemicals
are highly alkaline! That is the opposite of acidic and potentially more harmful to you than acids.

There is such a thing as the pH scale, which is a measure of a material’s alkaline or acidic strength. The
scale ranges from 0-14, with 7 being neutral (i.e. distilled water). Your skin is actually acidic to help kill
any bacteria that may be present, fight infection etc. You and your skin are somewhere between 4.5 and 6
on this scale. Acids will react enthusiastically with alkaline materials when given the chance. To
demonstrate, just put a spoon full of baking soda (weak alkaline) into a partial glass of vinegar (weak
acid) and see for yourself. (If you actually do this experiment, do it over a sink as it foams up quickly and
would make a mess otherwise!)

Trouble Shooting
Not getting the results you expected? Here are a few common places where something may be wrong in
your installation:

1) Are you getting enough HHO? You need at least 0.25 litres/minute for every litre of engine
displacement you have in your vehicle. If you remove the HHO hose from the engine and place it
in a cup of water, you should see at least 1-2 bubbles per second. This must be checked with the
vehicle RUNNING as the extra voltage from the alternator is important to operation. You should
expect a current of AT LEAST four (4) amps and the generator will warm somewhat as you use it.
You may need either more chemicals or stronger ones such as NaOH/KOH to increase your
current.
 2) Are you sure there are no leaks in the air stream and your HHO hose is securely fastened at both
the generator output and the vehicle’s air intake? Any tiny leak and your HHO will float away!
3) Are you certain of your calculations? It’s very easy to misjudge fuel economy due to different
driving conditions; different fuel and even slightly different fill levels. Real results can only be
expected after averaging several fill ups. Running your vehicle for short trips and partial fill ups
will surely yield inaccurate results.

On newer, computerized vehicles, it is possible for the ECU to detect your more efficient combustion
created by HHO. A common result is for the computer to ‘react’ to this perceived, leaner fuel-air ratio by
adding more fuel, negating your efficiency gains. In fact, in rare cases, the computer can over-react and
actually DECREASE your mileage until the sensor manipulation is complete.
See http://www.fuelsaver-mpg.com/documents.html for your resource on tuning and sensor manipulation
should your vehicle have a computer (ECU) that is causing this problem.

Here are some common problems and solutions.

WATER LEVEL TOO Add distilled water to approximately 1 inch from the top. In
LOW general, top ups only require water, not additional electrolytes.
This is because they are not consumed in the reaction, but
slowly break down over time. You will occasionally need to
add a small amount of electrolyte to maintain a proper mixture.

GENERATOR Lower the amount of Electrolyte. The generator should not

OVERHEATS exceed 60C after half hour to an hour of operation. 60C is the
point where you can only touch it for 1-2 seconds.

NO HHO PRODUCTION Check for a blown fuse, disconnected hose or electrical circuit,
or improper PWM wiring A serious leak or an inadequate
electrolyte mixture can also cause this.

HHO PRODUCTION TOO Make sure the vehicle is running. The extra volt or so, delivered
LOW by the engine’s alternator, is critical to performance. The
second most likely problem is a low electrolyte mixture. You
may need to add more baking soda or KOH.

MPG NOT AS EXPECTED See our dedicated section on this topic

WATER FREEZES IN If using baking soda, you may need to add isopropyl alcohol to
EXTREME COLD lower the freezing point. Levels of -30C (-25F) can be
WEATHER achieved. Even lower levels are possible if using KOH as your
electrolyte. See the winter operation section of this manual.

Dealing With Electronics

Simple carbureted engines and most diesels do NOT have O2 sensors that direct the vehicle computer
(ECU). That means the installation is most simple and you just plug it in and enjoy the savings.
Dealing With Oxygen

If you run this generator in electrolysis mode, you create HHO. That means there is an additional portion
of oxygen flowing through the engine. Most vehicles on the road today make use of an on-board
computer (ECU) to monitor the engine’s functionality. By way of oxygen sensors in the exhaust
manifold, your computer may see an increase of oxygen in the exhaust. It will then add a little more fuel
to compensate. This will effectively “steal” part of the gains back. It is impossible to predict if this effect
will be insignificant, drastic or somewhere in between. We cannot guarantee results for any particular
vehicle, but there are a few things you can do to improve your chances, if you are not getting the gains
you hoped.

1. Make sure the installation is secure, with no leaks.

2. Try O2 extenders. These are mechanical devices to increase the distance between the O2 sensors and
the exhaust manifold. This ‘desensitizes’ the sensor and permits a little more oxygen in the system before
the computer reacts. This is a simple and inexpensive approach. Green Source offers O2 extenders at $10
each, see www.greensource.ca Only use solid stainless type extenders. Plated and galvanized versions
rust instantly and may contaminate the sensor.
3. You may try an Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer. EFIEs are used to tweak or adjust the electrical
signal coming from the O2 sensors to the ECU. Many people have good success with these; however they
cost about $60 and are a little trickier to calibrate. Make sure these come from a reliable and proven
source. We recommend the following sources for EFIE, should you want to consider using them:

www.ebri.ca
www.eagle-research.com
www.fuelsaver-mpg.com

NOTE: Carbureted vehicles and most diesels do not require EFIE or O2 sensor extenders.

O2 Sensor Operation

If you have an O2 sensor, you may not realize all of your potential gains. This is because HHO makes the
combustion process more efficient. The engine becomes more efficient for a moment, then, it may be
possible that the computer thinks it is operating too ‘lean’ (ie. not enough fuel). The computer reacts by
adding more fuel. This additional fuel will result in the computer ‘stealing’ back part or potentially all of
your gains. It is impossible to predict in advance, whether this inevitability will be significant or not.
Some vehicles require sensor treatment to achieve noteworthy economy gains, while others do not.

O2 Sensor Manipulation

This can be overcome by two different methods:

1) Install mechanical extenders (spacers) in between the O2 sensors and the exhaust manifold.

Typically you need one for 4 cylinder engines and two if V6/V8. Only sensors BEFORE the catalytic
converter need be considered. We offer only the best quality, solid stainless steel parts, 19 mm round
threaded type and fit 98% of cars, however you need to verify they fit YOUR car. You should verify that
this is indeed your style before ordering and that you do NOT have the bolt on ‘flange’ type sensors.
Advantage: Quick, Easy and Inexpensive.

Disadvantage: Rusty O2 sensors can be tricky to

remove. Green source offers a PDF tutorial this
topic for those customers purchasing extenders.

At Right: O2 sensor extenders and their application.

2) Your second option offers fine tuning and is an electronic solution called EFIE, “Electric Fuel Injection
Enhancer”.
Advantage: These devices offer precise “fine tuning” of the signal and most often a slightly better
efficiency gain.
Disadvantage: These typically cost $60 and you need to cut the wires on your O2 sensor to install this
controller box.

Therefore the choice is one of personal preference; O2 sensors can be stubborn to remove as they age due
to rust, while some customers do not want to splice into the wiring of the car.

That said, most people simply try it first then decide if they are satisfied with their particular results. You
cannot predict how much or how little you may need these. Note: you may only require one of these
solutions NOT both.

An excellent link explaining O2 sensor removal and replacement.

http://www.diyrepo.com/files/2011/3/3/vwvortex_forums_diy_-
_replacing_oxygen_sensors_id990129.pdf

Myth Busters
1. Electrolysis is a very inefficient process. That is, your alternator consumes much more ‘mechanical’
energy from the engine than it produces through electrolysis into hydrogen. HHO injection will increase
the fuel economy because the engine operates at about 25-30% efficiency. The added gases in the engine
only aid the combustion process. Hydrogen burns 10X faster than gasoline and its addition results in a
cleaner, more efficient and complete burn of the gasoline.
2. More is not always better! In fact, sometimes it’s less, especially in the case of HHO. If you were to
keep increasing the HHO flow rate into the engine, eventually the increased mechanical load on your
alternator would offset your gains and actually DECREASE the fuel economy. There is no perpetual
motion and you can never get more energy out of a system than you put in. This generator delivering
about 1 liter/minute will result in good, measurable gains for you. Higher flow rates may be achieved
with a Pulse Modulator. In fact, Green Source research, decreased the fuel economy of a small engine by
24% when adding too much HHO. The resultant, faster burning charge of gasoline burned too quickly,
resulting in rough running engine, consuming even more fuel. The correct amount of HHO is 0.25 to 0.5
litres/minute for each litre of engine displacement. Ie. a 3.0 litre engine car will benefit more from 0.75 to
1.5 litres/minute of HHO.
In chemical mode this generator will only aid your efforts to improve your vehicle. Within reason, the
more the merrier when it comes to chemically derived, pure hydrogen. This is because there is no
additional oxygen created or increased load on your alternator.
3. It is a common misconception that a PWM lowers the voltage on a hydrogen generator, motor or
other equipment. In fact, it is simply a very fast acting switch that turns on/off your generator many 1000
times per second. You get to set the “Duty Cycle” of the on and off times. That is, you set generator to be
“ON” for example, 10% of the time, 40%, anything you want between 0-100%. You therefore are setting
the “Width” of the “Pulse” of electricity that is applied to the generator. If you tried to measure the
voltage with an older style analog (needle type) meter, it would appear to be lowering the voltage because
the mechanical meter will average the pulses gong through it. A modern digital meter will get totally
confused because every time it samples the voltage it is different as the PWM turn on and off your HHO
generator.
4. You still need gasoline or diesel as your main source of fuel. HHO can only supplement your fuel
economy. It cannot replace your fuel completely.

Green Source Pulse Width Modulators (PWM)

Green Source offers 2 different PWMs:

High Output PWM

30 amp version, comes in a nice splash proof
enclosure = $45

Specifications
Power supply 12 VDC
Maximum Load: 30 amps @70% Duty Cycle
Output Frequency : 30KHz FIXED
Adjust DC Pulse Width; output range from
0% to 100%
 Basic Model
17 amp version, circuit board and control knob and
instructions = $25

Specifications
Power supply 12 VDC
Maximum Load: 17 amps @70% Duty Cycle
Output Frequency : 30KHz FIXED
Adjust DC Pulse Width; output range from 0% to
100%

Our Basic PWM will supply 17Amps @ 70%

Pulse Duration; suitable for most HHO cells.

What is a PWM Circuit and Do I Need One?

The Short Answer

If you have a larger engine and require substantial HHO output, you will probably end up with a PWM.
Make sure it can handle your intended current and that it was PROPERLY RATED…many are over
specified and will either not work or burn out in a short time.

If you use our kits in basic mode with baking soda, you can usually operate without needing a PWM.

In summary, Green Source kits are designed to operate without PWM. However PWM is very convenient
to assist in setting the desired HHO flow rate. Otherwise you have to experiment a little to get the right
mixture of baking soda and water.

We recommend using PWM if any of the following apply to you:

1. You are installing on a vehicle over 3 litres in engine size.

2. Using KOH/NaOH instead of baking soda.
3. You are someone who does not want to experiment to get the flow rate optimized and would prefer
a little convenience.
4. You live in a warm climate and/or require the generator to be working at higher flow rates, ie. near
their capacity. That is, you are a power user. PWM allows you to get more HHO at a lower
operating temperature. This is especially important in warmer climates as HHO generators can
overheat when not configured correctly.
The Long Answer

HHO Generators are prone to overheating, ESPECIALLY those not designed properly. Improper designs
include poor electrode packs that create more heat than hydrogen AND plastic/glass containers that store
heat and boil your water. A pulse width modulator (PWM) is a HHO flow rate controller, which rapidly
turns your generator on/off very quickly. Typically 30000 times per second, as a matter of fact. You get
to set the percentage of on time (duty cycle), thereby allowing you to fine tune the HHO flow rate. Most
importantly, this allows you increased ability to control heat generated inside the generator. PWMs also
allow you to use more efficient (cooler running) chemicals such as KOH/NaOH.

PWM or Pulse Width Modulation refers to the concept of rapidly pulsing the digital signal of a wire to
simulate a varying voltage on the wire. This method is commonly used for driving motors, heaters, or
lights in varying intensities or speeds.
It is a VERY common fallacy that PWMs lower the voltage. They do not. As you will see below, they
simply turn on and off very quickly, lowering the ‘average’ voltage applied to your hydrogen generator.

A few terms are associated with PWM:

• Period - how long each complete pulse cycle takes

• Frequency - how often the pulses are generated. This value is typically specified in Hz (cycles per
second).

• Duty Cycle - refers to the amount of time in

the period that the pulse is active or high.
Duty Cycle is typically specified as a
percentage of the full period.

In the diagram at left, the duty cycle is shown at

50%. The pink line shows the average output
and you can see that at 50% duty cycle, the
output averages is roughly 6V or 50% of full
power.

See how the ‘average’ voltage (shown in RED) is

dependant on the pulse width (ON time). This will
control both your HHO flow rate AND your generated
heat that must be dissipated.
Why 20-30KHz?
The human ear can hear frequencies up to roughly 20kHz. When using PWM at frequencies below this,
the device being driven can often be heard to buzz. Higher frequencies avoid this. Also, PWMs are
historically used in motor speed control and the higher frequency also helps maintain the ‘strength’ of the
motor by maintaining its magnetic field.

Conclusion
PWMs permit the use of highly efficient electrolytes (that don’t generate much heat) by allowing you to
control the current in the circuit EXTERNALLY to the generator. Therefore no unnecessary and nuisance
heat is generated INSIDE the generator. This in turn, allows a higher HHO output and more efficient
electrolysis. Use these if are looking for high performance from your generator or fine tuning of the
output.

Liability Statement
Hydrogen generation and HHO supplementation are experimental in nature and have known inherent
risks! We have provided all reasonable safety information, but it is assumed the user will have researched
the technology and be familiar with its benefits and risks PRIOR TO USE. By using the supplied
equipment, you agree to release its suppliers and manufacturers from any and all liability, in regards to the
product’s use or misuse.

Green Source generators have been designed with YOUR SAFETY as a top priority and can protect you
from most of your own mistakes. Probably, the worst you will do is to melt a wire or boil your
electrolyte. Other generators on the market have components that, in the event of an over-current
condition can become excessively hot. This heated component can act as an ignition source for the HHO
and EXPLODE YOUR GENERATOR. Our generators do NOT have internal components that can
become dangerous.

Our liability shall be limited ONLY to product replacement, should a defect be identified at the time
of delivery.

Thank you and Best Wishes,

The Green Source Team