Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Following a similar trend, the Indian textile and apparel industry is also
experiencing rapid changes and growth. Apparel today has the largest
share of the modern organized retail in India i.e. 20% of the current
market of Rs. 56,000 crore and this is expected to grow at a constant rate
of 20% over the next 4 years.
This section puts together some of the recent trends being witnessed by
the textile and apparel industry. The central theme woven through these
trends is the way the consumer at various income-levels is evolving,
thereby ensuring that businesses are reacting in multiple ways.
With such hectic activity on the consumer level, fashion businesses need
funds for expansion and for investing into building their
systems/processes - retailers as well as private equity funds are fuelling
this growth by purchasing stakes in apparel brands. On the manufacturing
front, companies are realising the need to forward/horizontally integrate
their businesses and buying stakes/acquiring front end/related businesses
to get a better grip on the value chain.
This segment digs deeper into each of these trends citing examples of
thought leaders who have already moved in this direction. Within these
trends there are signs of related 'mini trends' and/or 'contra trends',
clearly visible in this industry. Each trend poses a question on what could
be the possible path for companies going forward.
Trend 1
Indian consumers are converting from stitched apparel to ready-
to-wear causing a surge in discount retailing
Factory outlets have become distinct and important shopping
destinations
Retailers are increasingly accepting the widely agreed fact that
consumers love a bargain and always look forward to buying brands at
low prices. Factory outlets have become distinct shopping destinations
with distinct audiences. Apparel companies are focusing on this market to
cash in on consumers converting from stitched apparel to ready-to-wear,
further graduating to branded apparel. India is thus seeing a surge in
discount retailers offering year round discounts, ranging anywhere
between 30% to 70%.
The Future Group has recently launched a new format called the 'Brand
Factory' selling national and international fashion brands at discounted
prices with discounts ranging between 25-50%. The store will have as
many as 120 brands such as Arrow, Esprit, Van Heusen, Levis, Reebok,
Lee, Pepe, Wrangler, Provogue and many others, spread over 70,000 sq. ft
of space. The group plans to expand its presence by opening as many as
55 outlets by 2010 The concept is positioned as a direct competition to
Arvind Brand's Mega Mart which also sells its brands at discounted prices.
Arvind Brands is rapidly expanding their Mega Mart chain with plans to
increase there number of stores from the current count of 54 to 150
stores in the next 5 years.
Koutons Retail India, which started as a product brand is today the largest
menswear brand in India in terms of its sales and number of stores. The
success of the brand's positioning is very clear from the fact that from a
store count of 240 a year ago, it has expanded to 999 in 2007, and its
turnover grew from Rs. 58 crore in 2004-05 to Rs 400 crore in 2006-07.
Close on the heels is Cotton County which will be increasing its stores
from 300 to 500 in 2007 and reach a count of 1000+ by 2010. Turnover
currently stands at Rs. 100 crore and is projected to grow to Rs. 500 crore
by 2010. They are also extending their product portfolio to include
womenswear and kidswear.
The Provogue Apparel Group introduced its multi brand discount format
'Promart' in 2007 in Ahmedabad spread over 40,000 sq. ft. and this store
has already achieved a turnover of Rs.25 crore. Their future plans include
opening 20 stores in the next 3 years. The 'Loot' is another discount
format retailer with 16 operational stores mostly in the West and South.
By 201 0 they plan to set up 100 such stores pan-India. The company runs
three formats, viz: signature stores, shop in shop and mega stores of
30000 sq. ft. It carries all major local and some international brands.
Going forward, how will these discount stores bring in higher revenue - by
increasing number of stores to cater to untapped consumer base, or by
adding more segments like womenswear/kidswear/accessories or by
offering better quality/colour co-ordinated merchandise?
Trend 2
Consumers now desire branded products in all aspects of their
life
Traditionally brands that offered formal wear are now extending
into casual wear, accessories, footwear etc.
With most brands turning lifestyle brands, they are opening larger
Exclusive Brand Outlets (EBOs) to showcase their complete range of
merchandise and give an international feel, The past few months has
seen brands opening up very large format stores in India.
The Indian consumer is empowered not only by sheer numbers, but also
by the state of evolution he/she is witnessing, With increase in purchasing
power, increasing globalisation and better discretionary spending
incomes, lifestyle changes have lead to newer opportunities for apparel
companies operating within this domain.
Apparel brands have realised that they need to evolve themselves along
the lines of consumer evolution, Brands do not want to be restricted to
one aspect of consumer life but wish to encompass all his needs, This can
only be done by expanding their product portfolio.
It is thereby seen that most brands that traditionally offered formal wear
are expanding their portfolio by adding new categories such as casual
wear, accessories & footwear. While formal wear only gave them access
to the 8 hour span of working customers with a desire to look good, casual
wear gives them the access to a larger spectrum of customers and to their
needs 24x7.
Going forward, how will these lifestyle brands expand their portfolio - by
further sub-branding and re-inventing consumer needs, or by evolving as
specialty stores for every segment or by moving to the higher value chain
and including high end consumers? (E.g. Levis Diva jeans at Rs.8000)
Trend 3
Designers realize the huge opportunities in ready-to-wear market
and are introducing prêt lines
Another trend visible in the Indian designer wear market is corporatisation
i.e. strategic tie-ups with large corporates in related industries to provide
the necessary financial support and expertise in operational management.
The designer wear industry lacks the processes, systems, people and
financial resources to rapidly scale up their operations. The direct
advantage of this would accrue to the designers who would be able to
concentrate on the design and aesthetics rather than on business
planning.
Genesis Colors Pvt Ltd., is the forerunner in the corporatisation of the
Indian designer industry. It is the parent company behind the labels Satya
Paul, Deepika Gehani, Tie Bar and Samsaara. These designers enjoy a
wide distribution network throughout India and abroad of
standalone/franchisee stores and premier fashion boutiques.
More recently, KK Birla group which owns two little known group-owned
stores in Kolkata - '85 Lansdowne' on Sarat Bose Road and 'Rose Bird' in
Park Street plans to enter into fashion garment retailing in a big way.
The designer wear market in India is witnessing a high growth pattern,
especially in the last few years - efforts are being made to develop this
segment by bringing it into the main stream retailing and making them
more accessible to customers.
Until a decade back, Indian designers were limited to very small revenues
through extremely high priced couture and diffusion line garments sold in
limited quantities. However most recently, several designers have realised
that there is a large market potential for affordable ready-to-wear apparel
and they need to move into this segment to tap the opportunity. Many
designers since then have launched their prêt 'affordable and designer
chic' lines starting as low as Rs.1500, with a lot of designers also seeking
to sell their offerings at major retail outlets. Following this trend
department stores such as Shoppers' Stop, Pantaloon, etc. have launched
exclusive designer wear sections inside their stores. Also designers like
Raghavendra Rathore and Anita Dongre have tied up with Shoppers' Stop.
Similarly, Suneet Verma has tied up with Tuscan Verve to retail his prêt
lines through their stores.
Going forward, how will these designers expand their customer base - will
it be by tying-up with lifestyle brands to retail in their stores (E.g. Wills
Lifestyle) or will they tie-up with international specialty brands coming
into India to design their private label here (E.g. A designer can tie-up with
Macy's when they enter India)?
Trend 4
Indian companies see a huge opportunity in partnering with
luxury brands wishing to enter India
The Indian consumer desires to possess international luxury brands as an
inspirational product. Additionally, no Indian retail brand actually qualifies
to be categorised as a luxury brand. This readiness for luxury as an
organised market, has been recognised throughout the world and
international luxury brands are exploring possible avenues and tie-ups to
enter the Indian retail market.
Indian apparel companies have realised the huge potential of partnering
with these global luxury brands wishing to enter India. This helps them not
only to extend their portfolio into the luxury, super premium, premium
segments, but also makes them probable sourcing partners for these
brands in India as well as internationally. Vice versa, luxury brands gain
access to well established distribution channels and customer base.
"Luxury is consumed by a subset of the Super Affluent class. There are 1.6
million Super Affluent urban households in India."
The market segment for luxury is only going to get bigger and better. The
task is therefore to create retailing zones for luxury and upscale products.
In the past, 5-star Hotels have been the most prominent addresses for
luxury retail in India. However with the growing market for luxury in India,
such spaces are proving inadequate. The concept of luxury retail is being
further developed by retailers and mall developers alike.
In a similar move, Raymond has a 50:50 joint venture with the Italian
major, Grotto S.P.A. The joint venture has launched the highly successful
Gas brand in India.
On the retailers side, Shoppers' Stop is planning to enter the luxury retail
segment with large format retail stores which will house products from
many of well-known luxury brands, including Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Zegna,
Hugo Boss, YSL, Mont Blanc and Christian Dior. The company plans to
invest Rs.100 crore in this model in the first year itself.
Going forward, how will these international luxury brands react to the
Indian market - will they introduce bridge/semi-premium lines for greater
penetration or will they introduce more brands from their umbrella in
different segments? (E.g. Benetton, though not luxury, has now brought in
its Sisley brand)
Trend 5
Worldwide surge in demand for organic and eco-friendly products
Organic cotton, the most popular eco-friendly fibre finds its way
into international apparel brands
Organic cotton has been able to achieve maximum popularity amongst all
eco-friendly fibers. Global retail sales of organic cotton products are
projected to grow to $2.6 billion by the end of 2008, reflecting a 40%
average annual growth rate. Hence, the demand for organic cotton fibre is
expected to grow to 100,000 metric tons in 2008, an average annual
growth rate of 47%.
Consumers the world over are increasingly becoming environment and
health conscious. Increased concern for protecting ecology and preventing
global warming, especially in the western countries, is boosting the
demand for organic and eco-friendly products across all categories. As a
result of consumer interest, eco-friendly fibre is used in everything from
personal care products, to home furnishings, and for apparel of all kinds
and for all segments.
The Indian market for these eco-friendly fibres is currently very small due
to low awareness. Given that most international brands are present in
India and Indian fashion trends are influenced highly by the west, it is
expected that demand for eco-friendly apparel would expand substantially
in the coming years.
Raymond has developed a specially crafted fabric from Casein (made from
a combination of milk proteins) to be used for making suits, shirts and
jackets.
Trend 6
Kids and youth are influenced by icons & characters and desire to
possess them in their everyday life
India has become an important market for character licensing
specially in apparel
India has emerged as the No.1 market in Asia-Pacific for companies like
Cartoon Network in terms of viewer ship and more importantly revenues.
"Interestingly, children's licensing and merchandising market accounts for
10% of Cartoon Network's revenues i.e. approximately Rs. 300 crore, of
which a large percentage is contributed by apparel, accessories, footwear
and home textile products."
This trend is picking up very fast in India with many companies taking up
licenses of popular cartoon characters. Cartoon Network had launched its
Powerpuff Girls and Dexter apparel through 1,500 retailers in India,
including lTC's Lifestyle stores. Disney entered into a pact with Indus
Clothing in 2006 to launch Disney jeans in India. Mattel has granted The
Shirt Company the license to manufacture and market Barbie apparel in
India.
Nickelodeon, the children's channel, has tied up with Bombay Dyeing for a
merchandising arrangement. Weekender has taken up the retailing for
Toon World and Gini & Jony has tied up with Garfield.
This trend is not restricted to kidswear alone. Brands are also looking
towards icons like cricketers, footballers, rock stars, wrestlers, and super
heroes such as Spiderman, Superman, Tarzan, Krishh, etc. to sell their
merchandise. Apparel merchandise with these icons are widely available
in the unorganised market, however some sports retailers are already
retailing them at their stores.
Nike retails the Indian cricket team jerseys at their stores. Similarly,
Reebok has gone a step further and is retailing cricketer T-shirts like
Rahul T-shirts, Bhajji T-shirts, 12th man to name a few.
Another similar trend has been used by Biba, the women's ethnic wear
brand. Biba has ventured into film merchandising i.e. they liaisoned with
the fashion designer of the film to market the apparel worn by the actress
in the movie and timed its launch in their store with the release of the
movie. By doing this, they have moved to the starting point of women's
wear trends.
Going forward, how will apparel companies further cash in on this trend -
will they add more celebrities like tennis players, rock/pop stars, or will
they create more home grown characters or will they enter into
partnerships with movies/tv/colleges to co-brand their merchandise?
Trend 7
Companies are exploring new' locations to retail in order to
increase visibility of their brand
Brand building by cafés/restaurants through dedicated
merchandise will also gain popularity in India
Retailing at such outlets typically follows two formats - the first is when
space is sublet for retailing branded merchandise at airports, metro
stations, etc. The second kind is when cafés, restaurants, fast food chains
sell merchandise to promote their own brand through T-shirts, caps, bags,
mugs, etc. While brand retailing at airports/metro stations is growing at a
fast pace, brand building by cafés/restaurants through retailing of
merchandise will also be an important trend mostly targeted at kids and
youth.
Airport retailing is an important area which will see growth for apparel and
more importantly fashion accessories. The global duty free market is
estimated at US $ 25 billion for the year 2004. India which has almost
minimal exposure to duty free retailing is now witnessing a lot of activity
in this sector. This has not gone unnoticed by international travel retail
companies who have shown interest in entering India. Some of these
companies are the Nuance Group, HMS Host, Gebrueder Heinemann,
Dufry International, DFS Group, Alpha and SSP. On the domestic front, in
the absence of travel retail companies, it is retailers like Shoppers' Stop,
Oberoi and Pantaloon Retail that are keen to enter this market.
Future Group has tied up with Alpha Airport group for airport retailing.
These Alpha future shops will be spread over 8000 sq. ft. of which 1100
sq. ft. is reserved for fashion, accessories and confectionary. Similarly,
Shoppers' Stop has tied up with the Nuance group to operate stores in
some airports and are expecting to earn revenue of up to Rs. 950 crore
over the next 7 years.
Metro stations in Delhi with high footfalls are attracting the attention of
retailers. Some metro stations already have outlets like Café Coffee day
and it would not be long before branded apparel is retailed here as well.
Similarly, beauty salons like L'Oreal and Lakme selling skin and hair care
products, can be ideal outlets for retailing categories like lingerie,
swimwear, beachwear etc.
Going forward, how will fashion businesses react to retailing at these off
beat avenues - will they create special apparel/accessory range for these
points of retail or will they start retailing aggressively at airports in other
countries (E.g. Hidesign)? Will apparel companies tie-up with fast food
chains (E.g. McDonald's, Pizza Hut etc.) to design and produce apparel for
them?
Trend 8
Promising growth in apparel brands is attracting investments
from retailers and private equity firms
Conversely, brands are also buying stakes into retail companies
for wider reach
Similarly, Reliance Retail is already in talks with various brands for buying
stakes into them. Maspar and Biba are a few of the brands they are in
talks with.
A reverse trend is also seen, wherein brands are buying into department
stores, thus helping them negotiate a better deal while selling their
merchandise in such stores. An example is Zodiac, which has acquired
2.93% in Shoppers' Stop.
Another visible trend has been the emergence of private equity firms
investing in fast growing apparel brands & companies. US based private
equity firm Argonaut has invested nearly Rs. 50 crore in menswear brand
Koutons Retail India to fund its expansion plans. Similarly New York Life
Investment Management Holding (NYLlM), the investment arm of New
York Life Insurance, is said to have bought 8%-1 0% stake in SP Apparels
for Rs. 36 crore. Former World Bank President James Wolfensohn's private
investment fund has picked up 6% stake in Fabindia for Rs. 44 crore.
Going forward, will this consolidation continue or is this only an off shoot
of the unprecedented retail boom in India? Will the interest of PE firms
buying into brands continue or will it reach a plateau in the next 2-3
years?
Trend 9
Textile companies are strengthening front and back end
operations through mergers and acquisitions
Textile companies providing raw materials (yarns & fabrics) for the
apparel & made-up manufacturers are also realising the importance of
control through the value chain. This is happening by forging growth
relationships with textile/apparel companies to create synergies and by
forward integrating to get a share in retail markets. This is being done
through mergers, strategic acquisitions or forward integrations.
The sheer number of mergers and acquisition (M&A) deals struck last year
has made 2006 a milestone year for India Inc. According to the
Dealtracker study by Grant Thornton, there were 480 M&A deals in India
alone with a total value of about $20.3 billion in 2006 with the average
deal size being $42 million.
Primarily IT, pharma and biotech have garnered the highest number of
M&As, however textile industry has also had its share in the opportunity.
Forward integration, by the textile companies has been prominent in this
sector as the margins in the initial stages (spinning, weaving) have
shrunk, while subsequent stages (processing, garmenting & retailing) still
manage to have relatively better margins. Another reason for this frantic
move is buyer's high expectations of vertical setups and bigger capacities
in garmenting, be it for domestic or exports.
Below are few examples of PE firms which have invested in the Indian
textile industry:
Going forward, what is going to be the growth path of the textile industry -
are we looking at increased foreign acquisitions to forward integrate in
these markets or are the textile companies looking at strengthening their
manufacturing advantage by acquiring / buying stake in complementary
manufacturing companies?
Conclusion:
The trends discussed above clearly show that the fashion business is
exploring all aspects of expansion i.e. it is bound for a multilateral
expansion rather than only unilateral expansion. Multi lateral expansion is
happening at every part of the value chain as well as for every consumer
segment.