Jetting

Name It Affects
1) Pilot jet 1/16 to 1/4 throttle
2) Air screw Idle to just off of idle (not the idle screw)
3) Jet needle 0-1/2 throttle, work with the needle shape first, then
the clip position
4) Needle jet 1/8-3/4 throttle, also called nozzle
5) Slide cutaway 1/4-3/4 throttle, the angle of the cut affects air
intake (high-dollar item)
6) Main jet 1/2-full throttle

1) Pilot jet - Affects mixture from idle to 1/3 throttle opening. The
pilot jet meters fuel to the "bottom end circuits"
2) Air screw - Meters air to pilot jet. It is usually located near the
back or air box side of the carb. Turning in clockwise will richen the
pilot mixture. Turning out, counter clockwise, will lean out the pilot
mixture. Average setting for most two strokes is 1 to 2 1/2 turns
out. Refer to owner's manual. If the airscrew is set to less than 1
turn, it needs a bigger pilot.
3) Needle - Affects the mixture from 1/4 throttle to full throttle. The
needle is in the leanest position when the clip is on the top, and
richest on the bottom. The needle calibrates the fuel to the change
in throttle valve (slide) opening. The further down the needle is, the
later the main jet comes on and the leaner the mixture at that
point.
4) Main Jet - This circuit affects the mixture from 1/2 throttle to full
throttle. This is your full blast top end circuit. This circuit is most
accurately tuned by checking the plug for the correct color, sort of
mocha brown.
5) Float/Float valve/Float level - Your owner's manual has the
correct level and procedure for calibrating your bike. Here are some
symptoms that would indicate the need for float adjustment.
A) If float level is too high, the float bowl overflows out the drain
hoses, and fuel often blocks the air passages that allow the carb to
de-pressurize. This causes a bog, or hiccup over large hits.
B) If float level is too low, the engine starves for fuel off idle,
causing a "boooooowang" sound very similar to a pilot jet or
airscrew set too lean.
Every component overlaps the throttle range of one or more of the
other components. Most people only change needle clip position,
and pilot/main jets. Most people check jetting by looking at the plug
or the exhaust spooge. We will attempt to jet by how the bike
sounds and feels in response to throttle input at different rpm
starting points. We won't really address the cutaway because of
price. Not too many people can jet a bike right the first time; all
jetting is trial and error, because every bike is different.
How to Jet:
1) Mark your throttle housing and grip in 1/4-turn increments. Use a
marker, razor blade.
2) Now get the motor to operating temperature by riding around,
away from the pits.
3) Once the motor is warm, ride in 2nd and 3rd gear from the low
RPM to high RPM. This puts a good load on the motor and is an
accurate test of performance.
4) Now try to locate the throttle opening at which the problem
exists.
To develop your skill at jetting, you need to experience too rich and
too lean with every jet (pilot, needle diameter, needle clip, and
main jet). Only after you feel what too rich and too lean is will you
be able to jet your bike perfectly. One size smaller in the main or
dropping the needle a position or two can often make a huge
difference in performance! Keep in mind that one area (i.e. throttle
opening) can be rich while another is lean. For example, the
midrange can be lean, which will cause a miss, but the top end can
be too rich, which would cause blurbbering.
Step 1: Main Jet
The main jet controls the mixture at full throttle. It is possible to
foul your plug if the main jet is too rich (but only if you're running at
or almost at full throttle). Notice that we are talking about throttle
openings here, not RPM. Other jets have negligible effect at full
throttle.
Your objective is to get an understanding of the mixture at full
throttle (wide open) operation. You need a long up-hill straightaway
for this test so you can be in the top gear with the engine under
load and running up in the upper RPM range.
If you hear pinging or missing, it is running lean; go larger on the
main. If full throttle causes gasping and poor pulling at mid RPM’s, it
is again an indication of running lean, so go larger on the main.
If the bike runs clean, select a larger main jet until you find the jet
that causes a blurbbering (four-cycling) sound. When you
experience that sound, you have found the jet that causes you to
run too rich. So back off one size to a smaller jet. This is the safe
main jet to use. You could go another size leaner; but you need to
be careful to avoid running too lean which causes the engine to run
hot and could seize the piston. It's better to jet on the rich side.

Step 2: Jet Needle Clip Position and Needle Selection

The needle jet controls the mixture from 1/8 to 3/4 throttle. At the
upper end of this range, the main plays a part too, but you have
already selected the main jet. The slide cutaway and the needle
DIAMETER are very similar in their actual effect on jetting. It's
usually easier to leave the slide stock and try to get jetting to an
optimum with the needle diameter. It is also possible to foul your
plug if the jet needle setting causes the engine to run too rich.
Raising the clip, a notch or two on most bikes will help substantially.
Most bikes come from the factory jetted too rich, especially in the
mid-range.
Again, you need an up-hill straight away to test the jet needle
setting. This time use 1/2 throttle (it may be helpful to mark the
openings) and allow the RPMs to reach the upper RPM range and
leave the throttle there. Now do your listening.
Any pinging means too lean. Blurbbering means too rich. Excessive
smoking is also an indication of running too rich.
To adjust to a richer mixture, take out the needle and place the clip
one notch lower (nearer to the sharp end of the needle). This raises
the needle out of the main jet a little higher, thus allowing more
gas/oil mix to pass.
To adjust to a leaner mixture, take out the needle and place the clip
one notch higher (further away from to the sharp end of the
needle). This drops the needle to restrict the gas/oil mixture from
flowing through the main jet.
Be careful when you remove the clip. It can flick away and become
lost quite easily. I use a small flat screwdriver or a pair of needle-
nose pliers and pry the clip away from the needle. I hold the needle
and clip between my thumb and finger while I do this.
If you find that you are up at the top notch of the needle (there are
usually 5 notches) you should get a needle with the next lower
number (leaner) and place the clip in the center notch to give the
equivalent mixture as the richer needle with the clip at the top.
Similarly, if you find that you are up at the bottom notch of the
needle you should get a needle with the next higher number (richer)
and place the clip in the center notch to give the equivalent mixture
as the leaner needle with the clip at the bottom.
You should not have to go to any more than one size leaner needle
than stock. In addition, I would not expect you to need to go richer
than the stock needle.
Next, go along slowly in one of the lower gears at less than 1/8
throttle and move the throttle quickly to 1/2 throttle. If the engine
does not pull strongly, it just sort of gasps for breath and only runs
well after the RPMs build up, it is an indication that the needle is too
lean.
Step 3: Pilot Jet Selection and Air Correction Screw Adjustment
When you are at 1/4 throttle and more, the pilot jet has virtually NO
effect. The pilot jet affects cranking, idle, and particularly
acceleration from idle. If the pilot is too lean, the motor will hesitate
when accelerating (in neutral) off idle. If it's too rich, the motor will
smoke excessively, foul plugs, and be unresponsive off idle. After
you get the needle right, get the bike idling by adjusting the idle
stop up where it will idle slowly on its own. The air correction screw
should be at 1.5 turns out to begin with. The airscrew affects the
pilot somewhat; it's about like changing the pilot 1/2 step (if that
were possible).

Okay, now slowly screw in the air correction screw 1/4 turn. Try to
find the airscrew adjustment where you get maximum idle RPM. You
may have to open the screw to 1.75 or 2.0 turns to get the right
setting. As the idle RPM increases, turn down the idle stop to return
the idle RPM to a slow, correct idle.
You objective is to find the pilot jet that will give you maximum idle
with the airscrew set at 1.5 turns out.
Remember that opening the air correction screw admits more air
during almost-closed throttle making a leaner idle mixture.
Now, when you find the correct jet size you will want to do some
final air screw adjusting to improve throttle response, assuming that
the needle jet is properly adjusted. Let the engine idle for 5 seconds
then open the throttle abruptly and be aware of how the engine
responds. If it almost dies, then you need a slightly richer idle
mixture so that as that mixture is gulped at abrupt throttle openings
it will be just a little rich and therefore give good response. The
bottom end should be a little on the rich side, while the mid and
upper end (the needle and main jet) should be leaner to give you
the best throttle response.
You can test this as you ride, say slowly in 2nd gear, with the
throttle closed so that the engine is drawing only from the pilot.
Wick it open quickly. If you find yourself doing a wheelie, your air
correction screw is set right. If instead the sound is
uhhhhhhhhhwwaaaaaaa and you find your nose a few inches from
your triple clamp, then your idle mixture is too lean and you need to
close the screw a little.

Rich Jetting Symptoms and Solutions

A) Motor won’t idle and idle set screw is ineffective. Try leaning out
the airscrew by turning it counter clockwise a quarter turn at a time.
If the airscrew has no effect, install a leaner pilot jet and return the
airscrew to 1 turn out. Proper airscrew settings are usually between
1 and 2 1/2 turns out. The correct pilot for your bike is one that
allows instant off-idle throttle response, and allows the airscrew to
be effective between 1 and 2.5 turns out. If the problem still exists,
check and clean the choke circuit and carb vent lines.
If you turn your airscrew 3 turns out you would need a smaller pilot.
B) Motor stumbles off idle to 1/2 throttle, then cleans up. If
everything in part A above is correct, check the needle. Stock
position is usually in the middle, but check your owner’s manual to
be sure. To lean out the needle, you need to raise the clip. If the
needle is dropped all the way lean and problem still exists, try a
leaner needle.
C. Motor will rev through the mid range then becomes gurgled
(technical term) at full throttle and power is sluggish. This is a
textbook example of a rich main jet. This problem often occurs
when an air filter becomes clogged and gets worse as the motor
heats up. Choose a main jet with a smaller number and lean out the
air fuel mixture one step at a time. If the problem persists even
though it’s improved a little, reinstall your original main jet and lean
out the needle one position. Now fine-tune the main jet with plug
checks.
Plug checks are the key to fine tuning the main jet once the other
circuits are set.

White Porcelain Lean

Chocolate Mocha Brown Perfect!
Black/Wet Rich
Look for symmetrical burn patterns, smell for odors like burnt
plastic, which is actually transmission fluid and would be indicative
of a blown seal.
Lean Jetting Symptoms and Solutions
A) Motor hesitates off idle with a "Booooowang" sound. This is a
lean symptom and often occurs when a motor is cold. Try turning
the air-fuel screw clockwise a quarter turn richer and check throttle
response again until motor revs without hesitation. If the motor
"hangs up" or doesn’t come right back down to idle, install a richer
pilot, and reset airscrew.
If you throttle on from idle and it bogs try turning the airscrew in or
out a 1/4 of a turn at a time until it does not bog at all.
If it still bogs - turn it in. If you have to go in more than 1/2 or 3/4's
of a turn in you'll need to put in a bigger pilot jet.
B) Motor knock knocks at idle when hot. Try solution A. If problem
persists, perform a "leak down pressure test" to check for ignition
crank seal leakage.
C) Motor revs clean and crisp but runs really hot and lacks power.
This symptom indicates a lean main jet and/or needle. Use a richer
main jet and/or needle setting. This is the most common
misconception about two stroke jetting: When a motor runs
excessively hot and lacks power, it is on the verge of seizing. If you
are on the trail and don’t have the right main jet, try raising the
needle by lowering the clip. It won’t be exact but at least you won’t
seize.
Note: To be certain that your problem is lean, pull on the choke and
see if the problem gets better or worse. If better, your problem is a
lean condition.