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Intelligent landscape management can reduce water and air pollution, creation of health risks for
people and wildlife, and threats to the environment and species diversity. By implementing the
principles described below, you can also reduce landscape maintenance costs, reduce costs for
heating and cooling of buildings, decrease time spent on yard chores such as mowing, and improve
the health of both humans and the planet.
Many of our ideas about gardening and landscaping derive from English design, brought to America by
our ancestors. Pennsylvania, once covered by vast stands of forest, gave way to farmland, meadows
and lawns. Today, lawns cover between 30-50 million acres of land in the United States.
As forest, fields, water and other habitats are altered to accommodate people, the environment
receives a one-two punch. As species decline, both flora and fauna, pollution increases, in our air and
water.
All species, including man, need five elements for survival--food, water, cover or shelter, adequate
space and clean air. Like a five-legged stool, the removal of one leg (element) throws the balance. The
removal of more than one leg (element) may collapse the stool.
Through simple landscaping practices, the legs of the stool can be strengthened. By implementing
conservation landscaping, individuals can make a difference in water quality, wildlife habitat, and
human health.
F. Use buffer plantings to create wind screens, create wildlife habitats, and protect less hardy plants
H. Protect stream banks by planting water loving trees, shrubs and perennial plants that reduce soil
erosion and stabilize streambanks
I. Purify the air by planting trees, that also reduce runoff and provide wildlife habitat
K. Capture and detain water to prevent runoff and to be utilized by the landscape
Through long-term planning, we can reduce the need for unnecessary chemicals and create
landscapes that require less money and time to maintain. For the most part, planning translates into
looking at the big picture, or thinking ahead to the landscape that you may envision in 5, 10, or even
20 years. It is important to ask such questions as "How much grass do I want to mow now and in the
future?" " Can I afford to water my lawn during droughts or during times of water restriction, given its
current size?" " Will my landscape mature into an outdoor living room?"
After asking such questions, it will be easier to envision a landscape designed and created to meet
your needs, expectations, budget and time. With some careful thought you can incorporate many of
the principles of conservation landscaping and create a beautiful, as well as environmentally sound,
landscape.
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unnecessary watering.
4. If it is necessary to use a sprinkler, water only as needed, watering in the early morning hours and
on cooler days to prevent evaporation. Water deeply to six inches to encourage root growth.
5. Recycle water by using gray water and captured rainwater. NOTE: Link to sidebar on gray water.
Native plants have adapted to the growing conditions of an area and are better able to handle stress.
Native plants are available for landscaping and often require less work to maintain than exotic plant
species. Plants grown from local seed sources or taken as cuttings from existing native plants are
best suited to the soil and climatic conditions of the area.
Because a native plant garden does not require mowing (remember, gas powered lawn engines
contribute 5% of the nation's air pollution), they actually help to reduce air pollution. Combine this with
the air cleaning ability through photosynthesis, and it is a win-win situation.
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conservation, and a visual and natural buffer. Most of the benefits are interconnected but one must
think about the main features and functions of their backyard landscape. For example, if one would like
to attract butterflies to the backyard, research what is found in the local area. What will it eat as a
caterpillar versus as an adult (i.e. monarch caterpillar eats the leaves milkweed (any kind will do) and
the adult needs nectar such as goldenrod, New England aster, and zinnias.
For windscreens or windbreaks, the landscape should contain a mixture of deciduous and/or
coniferous trees (white pine, hemlock, spruce. Shrubs should be planted along the windward edge of a
windbreak to increase its density. Tall growing species with narrow columnar habits of growth such as
red cedar and should be interplanted among denser species of trees. These windscreens or
windbreaks could also provide a multiple benefit: wildlife corridor from one property to the next and/or
from a surrounding natural area; energy conservation for the home (protection from summer and winter
winds); and depending on location, a buffer from the neighboring property. Reductions in wind speed of
up to 50% are possible by addition of tree canopy. If the overall neighborhood is tree shaded, the area
will be 3-6 degrees cooler than treeless neighborhoods.
More information on landscaping for energy conservation and other benefits on natural buffers will be
featured in an October webcast.
1. Use a natural enhancer, such as lime, to balance acidic soil. Available in powder and pellets,
lime is best applied in the fall for maximum incorporation into the soil.
2. Dress your soil with 1/8-1/4 inch thick top dressing of organic matter, such as garden compost,
well seasoned manure (never use fresh) or municipal leaf compost. Check with the supplier to
be sure that it is mature compost and does not contain other materials. The organic matter
adds nutrients, holds water and improves drainage.
3. If fertilizer application cannot be avoided, apply after the last mowing of the year and before
Thanksgiving, as this will feed the roots, helping to establish a strong lawn. Spring fertilizing
feeds the leaf and weed species, which means growth, not strength or health.
4. Follow the instructions on the labels when adding chemicals, it is erroneous to assume more is
better. Also, ask yourself if it is really necessary or if a more natural alternative could be used.
5. Consider using integrated pest management to control unwanted species.
Dig out unwanted plants by hand. Discard properly so they don't spread.
Place landscape fabric on bare soil around shrubs and trees and anchor with mulch. This
will reduce unwanted plants.
Introduce beneficial insects to control unwanted insects.
Try biological or physical controls to treat unwanted pests. For example, a plate of beer
in the garden will reduce the number of slugs.
6. Aerate soil to reduce the amount of compacted soil, which often inhibits root penetration, as
well as the amount of nutrients and water reaching the roots.
7. Dethatch your lawn to keep it in optimal shape.
8. Use a mulching mower to not only reduce lawn waste, but to add nutrients to soil. Mulching
mowers DO NOT contribute to a thatch problem.
9. Reconsider the definition of a perfect lawn. Are dandelions and violets really bad? Does your
lawn have to look like your neighbors?
http://www.norganics.com
http://www.epa.gov/region03/greenkit/landscap.htm
H. Protect stream banks by planting water loving trees, shrubs and perennial
plants that reduce soil erosion and stabilize streambanks.
Areas that link the land and local waterways together are known as a riparian or streamside buffer.
These buffers can provide many benefits if planted with native species of plants that are water loving.
The following are a few of the benefits of buffers:
1. reduce the volume of sediments, nutrients, and chemicals running off the land by trapping and
filtering these pollutants before they enter the water;
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2. provide ecological benefits for fish and aquatic insects by providing food, cover, and protection
from temperature changes;
3. slow runoff and allow it to soak into the ground,
4. recharge wells and reduce flooding;
5. provide a physical barrier for nuisance species such as geese; and
6. provide seasonal blooms and autumn color to beautify the landscape while
attracting butterflies and birds.
The most effective backyard buffer is comprised of three zones. The first zone, or streamside, from the
water to the top of the bank, protects and stabilizes the bank and provides habitat. The best buffer for
this zone is a mature forest but large shrubs and perennials with deep roots may be a better choice
where trees have collapsed a bank. Let it grow and let it go wild for the best protection. The second or
middle zone, from the top of the bank inland, protects stream water quality and offers habitat. This
varies in width depending on size of stream and the slope and use of nearby land. This zone can be
planted in trees, shrubs, and perennial plants. The third or outer zone, the yard, garden, or woods
between the house and the edge of the buffer, traps sediment.
I. Purify the air by planting trees, that also reduce runoff and provide wildlife
habitat
Trees are wonderful additions to the landscape. Not only can they provide shade to reduce cooling
costs in the summer, and wind blocks to reduce heating costs in the winter, they also remove carbon
dioxide from the air, purifying the air we breathe. Trees also provide food and nesting areas for a variety
of wildlife.
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K. Capture and detain water to prevent runoff and to be utilized by the
landscape
By reducing runoff, homeowners can conserve water, reduce pollution and reduce erosion. Water can
be captured in rain barrels at down spouts, in wetlands and ponds, and by slowing the rate of flow by
planting vegetation and mulching. Water can also be captured through the planting of ground covers on
slopes and by terracing slopes. Limit impervious surface in the landscaping through the use of
stepping stones, brick walkways, cobblestones and decks.
"The butterfly lures us not only because he is beautiful, but because he is transitory. The caterpillar is
uglier, but in him we can regard the better joy of becoming."- Cynthia Ozick
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