Fog lights on VW Golf / Rabbit MkV In-depth DIY installation guide

by geogob and nicogi

Posted on rabbitownersclub.com July 30, 2008

Introduction
This is an in-depth procedure to install fog lights on a MkV Volkswagen Golf or Rabbit. It covers the required material, tools and gives a step-by-step procedure. The rst step is to identify the components in the car and to determine whether the car has the necessary equipment to support fog lights. If not, an alternative solution using a relay is detailed. Both the standard installation and the installation with a relay are covered in this document. The critical component in this case is the electrical system control module to which the fog lights are connected. There are two series: a "highline", which supports fog lights, and a "midline" which doesnt. The type of module can be identied using its model number. Some features, like using fogs as DRL and cold bulb detection will not work with the relay installation. Note that the standard installation of the fog lights on a "highline" electrical system control module requires recoding of the central electronics module using a VAG-COM (VCDS) interface. This can be done by yourself or at any good Volkswagen service point. Disclaimer While it uses OEM parts, the following installation procedure was not designed by Volkswagen of Canada/Volkswagen of America. The author may not be held liable should any type of damage/malfunction occur to the vehicle due to the said installation. It is to be performed at your own risks.

Electrical system controle module identication

There are two ways to identify the type of electrical system control module module, also called Central electronics module, both using its model number. The rst is to directly check the module model number on the module itself. This is a good way to do it if you do not have a VAG-COM at hand. The same model number can be retrieved using a VAG-COM.

2.1

Accessing the electrical system control module

To access the electrical system control module you need to remove the drivers side lower foot-well panel. Follow the procedure described in section 4.1.4. This procedure requires a Torx T-20 screwdriver and should take only a few minutes. Once the panel is removed, you can easily nd the control module as most of the wiring converges to it. The control module is a box with about 8 connectors located to the left of the steering column. To help you locate the module, check for the relay panel, shown on gure 1. This relay panel is located on the module. On the identication plate, you should read the name "Bordnetzsteurgert" and a model number starting with 3C0, as seen on gure 2. Take note of this model number.

Figure 1: Relay panel located on the electronic system control module. View from the cubby hold opening.

Figure 2: Electronic system control module identication plate.

2.2

Retrieving the electrical system using VAG-COM

Connect the VAG-COM to the car and run an auto-scan (refer to the VAG-COM/VCDS manual and documentation). At address 09, you should have the retrieved information and status for the "Central Electronic" Module. Note the HW part number. The auto-scan output should look like this: Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 3C0-937-049-23-H.lbl Part No SW: 3C0 937 049 S HW: 3C0 937 049 S Component: Bordnetz-SG H46 1501 Revision: 00H46000 Serial number: 00000005703151 Coding: 118D0F214004150000140000001400000008730B5C0000 Shop #: WSC 94810 999 00324

2.3

Identifying the electrical system control module type

Using the chart from table 1 and your retrieved model number, you can identify the type of electrical system control module that you have.

Table 1: Known electronic system control modules model numbers. Source: www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/download/label-files/3C-09.LBL Model number Type VCDS redirect Model number Type 3C0-937-049-A Midline 3C0-937-049-23-M.LBL 3C0-937-049-AA Highline 3C0-937-049-B Midline 3C0-937-049-23-M.LBL 3C0-937-049-AC Highline 3C0-937-049-C Highline 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL 3C0-937-049-AD Midline 3C0-937-049-D Midline 3C0-937-049-23-M.LBL 3C0-937-049-AE Highline 3C0-937-049-E Highline 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL 3C0-937-049-AG Highline 3C0-937-049-F Midline 3C0-937-049-23-M.LBL 3C0-937-049-AH Midline 3C0-937-049-G Highline 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL 3C0-937-049-AJ Highline 3C0-937-049-H Midline 3C0-937-049-23-M.LBL 3C0-937-049-AK Midline 3C0-937-049-J Highline 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL 3C0-937-049-AL Highline 3C0-937-049-L Highline 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL 3C0-937-049-P Midline 3C0-937-049-23-M.LBL 3C0-937-049-Q Highline 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL 3C0-937-049-S Highline 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL

VCDS redirect 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL 3C0-937-049-23-M.LBL 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL 3C0-937-049-30-M.LBL 3C0-937-049-30-H.LBL 3C0-937-049-30-M.LBL 3C0-937-049-30-H.LBL

2.4

Conclusion
Now that you have the type of electrical system control module of your car, you can choose which installation procedure is required for you. If you have a "highline" module, you can proceed with the standard installation. If you have a "midline" module, which does not support fog lights, you can proceed with the installation using a relay. The latter requires a bit more hardware and more experience with connectors and wiring. If you do not feel comfortable enough with this, you may want to seek help from someone with experience in this eld. 3

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3.1

Material, parts and tools

This section describes the tools, parts and materials required for the installation of fog lights on your MkV Rabbit or Golf.

Requirements for standard installation (highline module)

3.1.1. Tools Trim removal tool (or a small at screwdriver) Small precision at screwdriver Torx T-20 screwdriver Phillips No. 2 screwdriver Wire pulling tool (or semi-rigid metal wire) Metric socket set with ratchet and extension 3.1.2. Parts Fog lights (L22 and L23, H11 12V 55W bulbs) Fog lamp projector with bulb, H11 Left - 1N0 270 595 011 Fog lamp projector with bulb, H11 Right - 1N0 270 595 021 Wiring harness1 1x Kufatec Golf 5 fog lights harness for H11 - part number 35692 ("Kabelsatz Nebelscheinwerfer Golf 5"). Or, for "build-yourself": 2x Two-Pin Plug for H11 bulbs - 3D0 941 165 A 2x Repair Wires for Two-Pin Plug - 000 979 244 Front grills with openings for fog lights Left side - 1K0 853 666 C Right side - 1K0 853 665 C Compatible E1 light switch (see note below for switch selection) Light switch trigger wire - 000 979 009 Light switch selection notes Various E1 light switch can be used. The right type may depend on the options already installed on your car. One important thing to consider is if the car is equiped with auto lights or not. Standard euro switch without auto lights is the 1K0 41 431 AJ. Do some research to make sure you select the right switch for your car.
1 Many online stores like OEMPL.US sell ready to use harness kits. The list given is for the OEM parts used to make this harness if youd like to build it yourself or replace a damaged part. Please crosscheck required parts and part numbers with a VW part specialist. Getting a Kufatec harness from OEMPL.US or Kufatec directly is the recommended option.

(a)

(b)

Figure 3: BOSCH 0-332-019-150 12V 30A horn SPST relay. 3.1.3. Materials No additional material is required for this installation.

3.2

Requirements for relay installation (midline module)

3.2.1. Tools The tools required for this installation are the same as for the standard installation, plus the following: Wire stripper Wire cutter Connector crimping tool In some cases, a soldering iron may also be needed. 3.2.2. Parts The parts required are the same as the standard installation. In addition, you will need a compatible relay. The relay must be a single-pole-single-throw (SPST) relay with two output pins. A BOSCH 0-332-019-150 12V 30A horn relay or equivalent should do ne (see gure 3). 3.2.3. Materials Additional materials are required for the relay installation: One (1x) O-connector for 12 gauge wire One (1x) O-connector for 18 gauge wire One (1x) .250 terminal connector for 12 gauge wire Four (4x) .250 terminal connectors for 18 gauge wire Two feet (2) of 18-gauge wire 5

 Seven feet (7) of 12-gauge wire In addition, the following is recommended: One (1) in-line 30 A fuse box One (1) 30 A automotive fuse Shrinking tube for 12-gauge wire The .250 terminals are to connect the various wires to the relay. The 12-gauge wire is used to supply power to the fog lights through the relay and the 18-gauge wire to ground the relay. Details on the installation will be given further. The use of a fuse and fuse box is highly recommended for safety reasons.

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4.1

Installation
In this procedure, unless otherwise specied, all points are relevant to both the standard and relay installation procedure.

Preparation

4.1.1. Lower front grill removal Remove the driver-side (left) lower grill by pulling on it. It is held in place by friction tabs. Remove the screw holding the passenger-side (right) lower grill, right in the middle, with a Phillips No. 2 screwdriver. Remove the grill by pulling on it. Keep the screw for later. 4.1.2. Battery removal Remove the top battery cover. Using a 10 mm socket, remove the negative terminal of the battery. Using a 10 mm socket, remove the positive terminal of the battery. NOTE : use caution when handling the battery and its terminals to avoid electrical shocks or acid spills. Remove the front cover of the battery holder. Using a 13 mm socket and extension, remove the mounting screw and securing bracket holding the battery, located between the engine and the battery. Be careful not to drop either the screw or the bracket in the engine compartment! Remove the battery by pulling it slightly forward and up. Store the battery in a safe place, protecting the contacts from accidental shorts. 4.1.3. Battery holder removal Remove the 3 mounting screws holding the battery holder in place. Remove the cover of the fuse panel located right beside the battery location. Disconnect the wire connected to the SA1 fuse (200A - purple). This is required to remove the battery holder. (see green arrow, gure 4) Remove it from the engine compartment.

Figure 4: Engine compartment installation and wire routing. Green arrow: SA1 fuse wire connector. Red arrow: Ground terminal.

(a)

(b)

Figure 5: (a) Location of the screws holding the lower dash panel (2x) and (b) upper dash panel (5x).

4.1.4. Lower driver-side dash panel removal Locate and remove the two screws holding the lower dash panel in place with the Torx T-20 screwdriver. See gure 5 (a). Gently pull down on the panel to open it, and then pull rear-wards to remove it. You can either disconnect the CAN bus interface from the panel to remove it completely or leave it there. 4.1.5. Light switch (E1) removal Make sure the switch is in the OFF (0) position. Push on the switch rmly, then turn to the ON position. The switch should remain in its inward position and be free to be pulled out. Take the switch out of its opening by pulling. Remove the connector on the rear of the switch. 4.1.6. Upper driver-side dash panel removal NOTE: The removal of this panel may not be necessary, depending on available working space. It is not too dicult to remove and makes working somewhat easier, especially with the relay installation. Remove the driver-side instrument panel side cover (also covering the instrument cluster fuse panel). Lift steering column trim gap cover from the instrument panel by pulling it up and backwards. Be careful not to scratch the instrument panel with the metal bracket once it is removed. You do not need to remove it completely, only on the left side. If you have the "cubby" storage, you need to remove it now. Open it and push inwards on the side panels until you can open it all the way, and then pull backwards on it until it comes out of its mounting. Remove the 5 mounting screws holding the panel in place with the Torx T-20 screwdriver. One is located on the top, near the steering column. One is located in the light switch (E1) opening. One is located around the center of the panel. Two are located at the bottom of the panel. See gure 5 (b). Gently remove the panel now only held in place by friction tabs on the right. Once the panel is removed, disconnect the instrument panel light dimmer switch (E20). We are now ready to start the fog lights installation.

4.2

Engine compartment installation

4.2.1. Harness The fog lights wiring harness must rst be routed from the driver-side grill opening to the passenger-side grill opening. This can be done with a wire puller or any semi-rigid metal wire. Next, route the harness up from the driver-side grill to the top of the engine compartment. Soon we will be routing the wires towards the rewall. 8

4.2.2. Relay power wiring (relay installation only) With the relay installation, power does not come from the electronic system control module, and it must come from an alternate source. The easiest way to do so is to connect a new power wire directly to an existing fuse on the front of the fuse box, near the battery. This is the main power distribution panel for the car. A safer installation would be to connect the new power wire to a free connection on the distribution panel and install an in-line fuse box with a fuse of appropriate amperage (15 A should be enough, but dont exceed 30 A). Mount an in-line fuse box on the end of about 7 feet (7) of 12-gauge wire. Either use crimped connectors or soldering. Attach an O-connector to the other end of the in-line fuse box. Connect the O-connector to a free connection on the main power distribution panel located on the front of the engine compartment fuse panel. Route the new power supply wire down to the main wiring route going under the battery. NOTE: Make sure any exposed wire is covered and protected using shrinking tube of the appropriate size. Avoid the use of electrical tape as the tape will wear down and fall under the harsh conditions encountered in the engine compartment. 4.2.3. Fog lights grounding Before routing the wires and harness, well complete the installation in the engine compartment by connecting the ground wire of the fog lights harness to an appropriate ground terminal. The grounding wire should be terminated with an O-connector and separate from the left and right fog light power wires terminated with little metal pins. Locate an appropriate grounding terminal on the chassis. The one located between the engine compartment fuse box and driver-side headlight (on the left wheel well) is a good choice (Red arrow, gure 5). Secure the O-connector of the grounding wire of the fog lights harness to the grounding terminal. 4.2.4. Engine compartment routing The next step is to route the fog lights harness and the power supply wire (for relay installation only) towards the rewall. Open the wire holders securing the main wire groups. Route the fog lights harness and the power supply wire (relay installation only) along the main wire groups towards the rewall (Blue dashed line, gure 5). Secure the wires in place by closing the wire holders. At the same time, make sure the ground wire is secured and laid down tidily.

4.2.5. Firewall pass-through Once the wires are routed all the way to the rewall, they must be routed through it to reach the instrument cluster on the driver side. If you look closely at the rewall, youll notice that there is a rubber seal where a large group of wires already goes through. On this seal you should see nipple-like protrusions. The idea is to cut through the end of one of these nipples and pass the wires trough. An easy way of doing this is to puncture the rubber seal where you want to pass the wiring and pass a long narrow tool through or a wire puller. Be careful not to make the hole too big as it may allow water and dirt (and hopefully not re) to go into the passenger compartment. The wires that need to go through the rewall are the two fog lights power wires of the fog light harness (These are usually attached together, gray and terminated with little metal pins) and the power supply wire for the relay (relay installation only). Locate the rewall rubber seal for wires (along the main wire group). Locate an appropriate place on the seal to pass the wires and puncture it. Pass the wires though the hole towards the passenger compartment. 4.2.6. Fog lights installation Make sure the ends of the harness are going through the rights openings at the lower front grills. Place the plastic expanding nuts into the appropriate holes in the lower front grills openings. Connect the fog lights to the harness and put them in place. Secure the fog lights with the appropriate screws by screwing them into the plastic expanding nuts. You may install the new grills at this time or wait.

4.3

Dash installation and electronic integration

We are now nished in the engine compartment. The next step is the integration of the fog lights with the cars electronic systems. 4.3.1. Light switch (E1) integration First, the light switch connector must be modied to support the front fog lights. A new trigger wire must be connected to the switch connector. This wire sends the switchs signal to the electronic system control module (standard installation) or to the relay (relay installation). Remove the connector socket from its plastic housing using a precision screwdriver by lifting up the small retaining tab. Careful not to break it. The green arrow in gure 6 (a) points to the tab. Place one end of the trigger wire into socket number 5 of the connector. The socket should be numbered. Make sure you use the right one. Hint: the socket should already be free (if not, contact a specialist for further help). Replace the connector socket in its plastic housing. 10

(a)

(b)

(c) Figure 6: (a) E1 light switch connector. (b) Electical system control module (ESCM) "D" connector with pink locking tab. (c) ESCM "E" connector. The green arrows point to the tabs to release the connector sockets form their plastic housing. 11

4.3.2. ESCM/CECM connection (standard installation only) This procedure is to connect the fog lights and the trigger wire from the light switch to the Electrical system control module. For relay installation, skip to next section (4.3.3). Identify the two fog lights wires from the fog lights harness. They are either color coded or grey with text indentifying a pin and a plug. One should be either solid grey (if color coded) or identied with the label "Plug D Pin 2". The other should be either grey/yellow color coded or identied with the label "Plug A Pin 4". The pinout may be identied in german: "Pin 4 Stecker A" and "Pin 2 Stecker D". Locate the electrical system control module (J519) under the instrument panel on the driver-side, left of the steering column. If you checked the model number on it, you should already have found it. It is labelled "Bordnetzsteuergert". See section 2.1 on page 1 for more information. Unlatch the main locking mechanism for all connectors by sliding it sideways. It must be on the AUF (OPEN) position. This locking latch is a red plastic piece located between the two series of connectors. This latch is visible on gure 2 with part of the word "AUF" and an arrow pointing the direction to unlock the connectors. Remove the A connector and D connectors from the Electrical system control module. On these connectors, you should see a pink tab (see gure 6 (b)). This tab is the holding mechanism for the wiring pins inserted into the connector. Gently open these tabs to release the mechanism using a small precision screwdriver. Insert the wires in the appropriate pins. One goes in pin number 2 of connector D, the other in pin number 4 of connector A. Check on the connector for markings to make sure you have the right pins. Replace the pink tab on the connectors to lock the pins in place. If it doesnt close easily, the pins are not well seated in the connectors. Not force should be required to put the pins in place or close the pink lock. Reinstall the A and D connectors in their appropriate slot. Remove the E connector from the Electrical system control module. Using a small precision screwdriver, remove the connector socket from the E connector from its plastic mounting in a similar way that was required for the light switch (E1). (see gure 6 (c)). Connect the other of end of the trigger wire that is connected to the light switch (E1) to pin number 6 of the E connector. Make sure it is routed properly and securely under the dash rst. Reassemble the E connector and reconnect it to the Electrical system control module. Make sure all the connectors are secured in place and then latch the main locking system of the Electrical system control module by sliding it sideways. It should be on the ZU (CLOSED) position.

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4.3.3. Relay connection (relay installation only) The following procedure is to install a relay on the fog light harness. It is only needed if the Electrical system control module does not support fog lights (see section 2). If you are proceeding with the standard fog light installation, you can skip to the next section. It is presumed that you have already installed and routed a new power supply wire for the relay as described previously. First, we need to put the .250 terminals on the wires to go on the relay. Attach a .250 terminal connector on the 12 gauge power wire coming from the engine compartment using a crimping tool. Make sure it is properly attached and of the appropriate size for the wire used. Cut the end of both fog lights wire from the fog light harness to remove the sockets usually used for the integration with the electrical system control module. These wires should be either grey with the identications "Plug A pin 4" and "Plug D pin 2" or one grey and the other yellow/grey if using color coding. Attach gauge 18 .250 terminals to the fog lights wires. Cut the lose end of the trigger wire connected to the light switch (E1) and attach a .250 terminal of the appropriate size to it. One for wiring gauge 18 or 20 should do. Take about two feet (2) of lose wire. Gauge 18 or 20 should do just ne. This will be the relay grounding wire. Attach a .250 terminal to one end of the relay grounding wire and an O-connector to the other end. Now, it is time to connect everything to the relay. Route the wiring tidily under the dash. Connect the wires to the relay as shown on gure 7: The white trigger wire from the Light Switch (E1) goes to terminal 86 The relay grounding wire goes to terminal 85 The power supply wire coming from the engine compartment goes to terminal 30 The two wires going to the front fog lights (those from the harness) connect to terminal either one of the 87 terminals

NOTE : there should be two (2) terminals labelled 87. If not, you do not have an appropriate relay. If one is labelled 87A, you may have the right relay or not. This will be conrmed during testing, but you most likely have a Single-Pole-Double-Throw (SPDT) relay. See testing (4.4.8) for diagnostics and corrective measures. Route the grounding wire towards the side fuse panel. Find an appropriate screw to connect the fuse ground wire. Make sure it is in contact with the car chassis. One of the screws holding the fuse holder in place is a good choice. You can also try to locate a standard grounding terminal in that area.

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Figure 7: Relay with all wires connected. Secure the relay under dash. Make sure exposed wires do not touch any metal parts, which may cause a short circuit. Using shrinking tube to protect exposed terminals is good practice. As you can see on gure 7, the connectors are very exposed. Protecting them will prevent any accidental shot circuits or risk of injury during vehicule maintenance. This is especially important since the relay will be powered at all times (even when contact is o).

4.4

Finishing, programming and testing

4.4.1. Upper dash panel installation If you removed the upper dash panel, now its time to put it back in place. Make sure the all the wires are properly routed and that they wont be pinched by the panel. Reconnect the light dimmer switch connector (E20). Route the light switch connector (E1) through the switch opening. Put the panel back in place, making sure it is well seated in place. Be careful when seating the upper part of the panel. There is a metal tab where the topmost mounting screw goes (just under the instrument cluster) that can easily be pushed out of place. Put back the 5 mounting screws. Put the trim located under the instrument cluster back in place. Replace the cubby hold (if needed).

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4.4.2. Lower dash panel installation To replace the lower dash panel, simply put it back in place starting at the rear and push it up. It should hold in place by itself. Then put the two mounting screws in place. At that point, you can also replace the side dash panel covering the fuse panel. 4.4.3. Light switch (E1) installation Now its time to install the new light switch. First you have to release the locking mechanism on the new switch. Place the switch in the OFF (0) position. Firmly press the switch selector to push it inwards and turn it to the ON position. The selector should stay in its inwards position. Connect the light switch connector to the new light switch. Slide the light switch in place in the dash panel. While Firmly pressing on the switch selector, turn it from the ON to the OFF (0) position. The selector should come back out and the switch should be locked in place. You are now done for this part of the installation and can move on to the engine compartment. 4.4.4. Battery holder installation To replace the battery holder, basically follow the reverse steps to remove it. Reinsert the battery holder in its previous location. Reattach the wire originally connected to the SA1 fuse (200A). Make sure it is secured. Secure the holder using the three (3) mounting screws. 4.4.5. Battery installation Before proceeding with battery installation, double-check and make sure all wiring is safe. Check that the key is in the OFF position and turn all electrical (lights, fan, etc.) o if possible. Place the battery on the battery holder and make sure it sits properly. Replace the battery retaining bracket and bolt it in place between the engine and the battery holder. Be careful not to drop the bracket or the bolt down in the engine compartment. Make sure the retaining bracket mounting bolt is tight enough. The ocial tightening torque is 20 Nm. Check that the battery is held solidly in place. It should not move at all. Failing to do so may result in serious (and costly) damage to the car and/or battery. As usual, refer to a specialist if you do not feel condent to do this installation yourself. Replace the front panel of the battery holder. Make sure the battery wires are properly routed. Reconnect the battery terminal clamp of the positive wire on the positive terminal of the battery and tighten. 15

 Reconnect the battery terminal clamp of the ground (GND) wire on the negative terminal of the battery and tighten. NOTE : Do not over-tighten the battery terminal, but make sure they are secured. 4.4.6. Car power up procedure Once you reconnected the battery, a few things must be done. First, turn the ignition key to the ON position and then OFF again. (Do not start the engine). Adjust the clock (if required) Open and close all electrical windows completely then close them completely to reset the electrical window regulators (hold the windows in their open and closed position for a few seconds). Failing to do so will prevent the automatic opening and closing of the windows to work. Furthermore, it will prevent the obstruction/pinch detection to work. If you see a steering wheel light on the instrument panel, it means you need to reset the steering angle sensor. This is done automatically after driving in a straight line ahead at 15 to 20 km/h. Once this is done, the indicator lamp should turn o automatically. If not, contact your service point for assistance. This procedure can be done immediately or later. 4.4.7. VAG-COM (VCDS) programming (standard installation only) For installation using a relay, the installation is pretty much over. Because you bypassed the Electrical system control module, you do not need to reprogram it to support fog lights. This procedure assumes you have prior knowledge of VAG-COM (VCDS). Please backup your original module coding before doing any modications. Connect the car to a computer with VAG-COM (now called VCDS) software using a compatible HEX+CAN adaptor (refer to the VCDS manual for detailed help). Go to the module at address 09 (Cent. Elect.). This is the Electrical system control module. Go into Coding - 07 Go into Long Coding. On Byte 00, check the appropriate box to enable front fog lights. (Byte 00, bit 0 must be set to 1 : Front fog lights installed). Upload the new coding to the module. You may also want to do the following changes (but they are not required): Module Address 09 (Cent. Elect.) : Coding Byte 18, Bit 2 set to 1 for Cold Diagnosis Front Fog Lights active. This should allow cold bulb detection for the newly installed fog lights (untested). Module Address 17 (Instruments) : Coding Byte 5, change to 1 for Europe or 4 for Great Britain. Check module documentation for further details. Changing the instrument cluster to European mode changes the behaviour of the light switch (E1). The new behaviour is more consistent with the installation of fog lights, even with DRL active. 16

4.4.8. Testing Now it is time to test the installation. Turn the light switch to the ON position and pull on it to turn fog lights on. Standard Installation Testing If you did the standard installation and neither fog lights are working, recheck the Cent. Elec. Module (address 09) coding. Also, check the grounding in the engine compartment. If the coding and grounding are correct, recheck the installation step by step. Relay Installation Testing If both lights come on when you pull the light switch, then the installation seems ne. Good job. NOTE: when working on the relay connection, it is a good idea to remove the fuse from the in-line fuse box installed on the relay power supply line to prevent accidental shorts or risks of electrocution. If no lights come one at all, double-check the installation step by step. Also: Check the relay power supply fuse you installed. If it is not in place, install it. If it is burnt out, you most likely have a short somewhere. Disconnect the battery and nd the fault before going any further. Once the short is located (and xed), replace a new fuse and reconnect the battery. Check all grounding (fog lights in engine compartment and relay grounding wire). Check power supply to the relay on relay terminal 30. Should be 12 V. Check the trigger wire connection on the relay. Make sure there is 12 V between terminals 86 and 85 on the relay when the fog lights are ON. If not, theres a problem with the trigger wire. Make sure you installed it properly. If one fog light is always on, but the other one comes on when you activate the fog light switch... you have the wrong relay type! You have a Single-Pole-Double-Throw (SPDT) relay. You need a Single-Pole-Single-Throw (SPST) relay. If you cannot nd a SPST relay with two output terminals, nding one with a single output terminal should be easier. Connect both fog lights wires from the harness to the same output terminal labelled 87. You can also keep your SPDT relay and connect both fog lights to either output terminal, usually labelled 87 and 87A. A quick test or the diagram (gure 3 (b)) on the relay will help you nding which terminal to connect to. If one fog light comes on but not the other, check the connections on the relay. You may try to reverse the fog lights connection on the 87 relay terminals to see if this reverses the behaviour on the fog lights as well. If not, you may have a defective fog light bulb. The relay may also be a bit sluggish at rst. Try cycling it a few times on and o. If this doesnt work, it is probably defective. Replace it. 4.4.9. Front grill mounting Finally, you can mount the grills. Snap the driver side grill in place. Snap the passenger side grill in place. Secure the passenger side grill with the screw removed from the original grill. 17

4.4.10. Fog lights alignment This procedure is the one given by mdonders in the rabbitownerslcub forum. Park the car 25 feet away from a wall on a level surface. Measure the distance between the ground and the center of the fog lights (should be about 13 inches). Subtract 4 inches to that value and draw a line on the wall. Align the top cut-o line of the fog lights with this line. The adjustment can be made with a Torx screwdriver on the screw just beside the fog light projector (not the mounting screws to x the lights).

Enjoy your new fog lights!

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