Shaping a faShionable future

IndonesIan fashIon desIgners seem to be gettIng younger, wIth creatIvIty and ambItIon to match. TiTania Veda sees that once theIr organIsatIonal capacIty catches up they stand to conquer the world.
photography AA KRESNA

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ithin the warehouse-grey walls of The Goods Dept in Plaza Indonesia are tables and racks of latest and trendiest fashion items by Indonesian designers lumberjack shirts, zipped-up denim jeans, swinging cotton dresses, and hooded baby jumpers, among others. The cuts are simple, solids are predominant, and fabrics are light. The clothes are modern, fashionable, and totally wearable in Jakarta. They cost a fraction of the price of foreign designer brands. A few years ago, it would have been hard to find ready-to-wear pieces from a local designer. When the upper echelons of society were not requesting custom-made evening gowns and bridal wear from the designers, they flocked to international brand names to maintain their status symbol. But a change was due. A new generation of designers are making their mark by creating affordable, ready-to-wear lines and collections featuring traditional fabrics. They are filling a gap in the Indonesian fashion market, normally saturated by made-to-order designs and imported brands. The rise of Indonesian designers has come in several waves. More recently, stores carrying local brands have begun appearing in malls Fashion First in Senayan City, Level One in Grand Indonesia, and The Goods Dept in Plaza Indonesia. Coupled with the birth of Jakarta Fashion Week in 2008, which provided a much-needed platform for local talent, this support system has enabled designers to reach larger market segments. Many designers, like Soetjipto Hoeijaja, view Fashion First as the pioneer supporter of Indonesian designers. The boutique functions as an incubation hub for young designers, providing them an opportunity to compete with international brands and a place to showcase their ready-to-wear collections. Before Fashion First, there was only Biyan and Seba in the malls. Now there is an increase in entrepreneurship in the fashion world. It's created an awareness that Indonesia has talent, said Soetjipto, a menswear designer whose collection can be found in both Fashion First and his Level One shop.
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now women are wearIng theIr prIyo and arI seputra outfIts as alternatIves to theIr prada, says fashIon guru muara bagdja.

While Fashion First displays high-end collections by local designers who made their mark in the custom-made market, the middle income bracket is served by Brightspot Market and The Goods Dept with their cheap and chic collections. Before it became a permanent store with over 100 brands, The Goods Dept began as a pop-up market called Brightspot. The organisers wanted to create something different for the retail scene in Jakarta. You saw imported brands like Top Shop and Zara and the local brands, which were surviving off custom-made orders. Then there was this group doing something interesting not high-end custom, not distros (discount clothing warehouses) but something more exciting and more fashion-focused, says Chris Kerrigan, business development head of PT Bright Spot Indonesia. As the popularity of affordable local brands soared due to Brightspot Market, Grand Indonesia created Level One as part of their corporate social responsibility program. The mall invited 22 designers to open their own shops, charging them subsidised rent. We took the risk of asking the designers to join us. But they had to promise consistency in quality, quantity, and variety, says Teges Prita Soraya, senior marketing communications manager of PT. Grand Indonesia. Its easy enough to put a rack in a store or post your items on Facebook to sell, but if you have shop in a mall beside top international brands like Zara and Forever 21, its harder, says Teges.

gaInIng publIc acceptance

The main value of a designer is in his name and products. So its easier to sell if you have an international attachment to it, whether youve studied overseas or have had your products placed there, says Jeffry Tan, who launched his brand two years ago. Not all designers are so lucky. But that is where spaces like Fashion First come in. In Indonesia, there are a lot of good designers but they lack resources. We should nurture and help them, said Deli Makmur, owner of Fashion First. The young talents are the ones shaping our fashion future, Deli says. When Stella Rissa made her debut in 2008, after graduating from Esmod Jakarta, public acceptance of designers was pretty sparse. I wanted to take my brand outside first so Indonesians could appreciate it when I returned, said Stella, whose clean-cut designs have entered boutiques in Jakarta, Bali and Singapore. But as public awareness grows through these supporting channels, the market is rapidly moving towards the designers. With the help of fashion organisations such as Cita Tenun Indonesia and Rumah Pesona Kain, designers have begun to develop traditional textiles. Recently, tenun woven fabric is hot on the heels of the omnipresent
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batik thanks to high-end designers like Priyo Oktaviano and newcomer Vinora Ng, who are constructing new, modern and exciting silhouettes with the fabric. Now women are wearing their Priyo and Ari Seputra outfits as alternatives to their Prada, says fashion guru Muara Bagdja. Without a doubt, Indonesias strong suit lies in textiles. But not all designers are veering towards them. The likes of Jason Wu and Alexander Wang come from ethnic backgrounds. Yet each of them has a style that doesnt necessarily bring their ethnicity or countries to the table, Stella argues. Many of the younger designers share this view, eschewing tradition in place of trendy, modern styles that can be easily produced by a home industry. A collective, cheap chic style has emerged. Prices are low, fabrics are polyester or cotton-based, and more attention is paid to cuts and layers. But, Muara insists, even if the prices and fabrics are the same, if you look at the brands closely, they have their own uniqueness. The strength and distinctiveness of a brand depends on how designers position their branding in fashion shows and magazine editorials, Muara says. Besides branding, price is also a determining factor of a designers survival. Consumers understand the value of a custommade gown but not necessarily the high price tag of a ready-to-wear dress. Sometimes we feel designers are underselling themselves, pricing things low because they dont think the market will buy at higher prices, Kerrigan says. What differentiates the generations is business versus image, according to Fashion First owner Deli Makmur. For the young, a profit of Rp100,000 is OK as long as they can cover production costs. The profit they make wont be much but their spirit of competition

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is there lets open our business first. While the seniors are image-driven. They already have a character. But its a process, says Deli.

rIse of pret a porter

Nevertheless, ready-to-wear is taking the country by a storm. Made-to-order designers are jumping on the bandwagon to get a piece of the retail pie. Couturiers Deden Siswanto and Tex Saverio, who specialise in evening and bridal wear, are planning their second lines. As designers we can be more businessoriented and minimalist in our designs or we can create fashion as art. I choose to be both, which is why I'm coming out with my second line, says Deden. But he insists on creating a deluxe second line that wont appear in department stores because he understands that Indonesian consumers remain fashionobsessed and image-conscious. At an event, they dont want to see their twins walking around, Deden says. It is for this reason many designers make

only limited copies of each design for their ready-to-wear collections one in each size, S, M, L, or depending on the availability of the fabric. Vinora is restricted by her choice of fabric tenun, which is handmade, takes a long time to weave, and is expensive. Others simply chose not to produce something for the masses because they arent able to compete with cheap imports from China and Thailand that have permeated the market. I dont want to make something very commercial because I dont want to compete but I dont want to charge exorbitant prices either, says Jeffry, whose price covers the reasonable range of Rp 250,000 for a shirt to Rp 3.5 million for a frock.

(top left) Stellas current collection is a continuation of Womens Possession, which she created for JFW 2010. It is a line she dedicated to all women not only those in fashion, but to mothers, and daughters, and wives. (top right) Catering for the modern and independent woman, Priyos creations embodies pure elegance and artistry, clearly shown in this masterpiece of intricate crochet detailing.
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rough waters of retaIl

Dealing with pricing, marketing and distribution issues are at the top of every designers checklist. While fashion shows and events such as Jakarta Fashion Week (JFW) help create awareness of local talent, designers are

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This begets the question are the designers ready? Fashion experts agree that designers are more than capable of competing in the global arena when it comes to designs and creativity. But not their capacity. If a designer gets an order for 10,000 pieces, can they handle it, technically? asks Muara. Much of the industry is reliant on home industries. Jeffry Tans atelier combines his office and workshop, which accommodates his seven tailors. Priyo, who once showcased his creations to Michelle Obama, has an in-house staff of 20. Stella has a small workshop in Bali and Jakarta, but refrains from using traditional materials because they are expensive and not easily accessible. Designers have production issues. Most factories won't take small designers so they do all production on their own, said Kerrigan. Material sources are also an issue. Unless they are buying in huge quantities (thousands of metres), there is a big limit on what's available, he adds.

a helpIng hand
Meanwhile, it is up to the designers. Although there is insufficient government support in terms of funding and promotion of local fashion, there is hope. Designers can tap into organizations like Cita Tenun Indonesia, the Indonesian Fashion Designers Council (IPMI) and the Indonesian Fashion Designers Association (APPMI) to get better exposure and reach the global market. This May, Teges is showcasing her Level One designers to Blueprint, Singapores fashion trade show, while the Femina Group will be collaborating with Milans leading fashion and design school, Instituto Marangoni to hold a three-day seminar for JFW participants. The seminar will be an opportunity to help our designers catch the upcoming trends and teach them how to create a collection from context to design to execution, says Svida, who believes Indonesian designers have what it takes to achieve success in the international stage. I hope to see Shanghai, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Sydney and Jakarta fashion on the rise. Jakarta has to be on the fashion map because we dont only have the designers, but also the history of textiles and accessories more so than any other region. We should do well in all peripherals of fashion, she concludes.

His clothes may resemble fashion museum pieces but for image-conscious Indonesians, a Tex Saverio dress allows them to don magnificence. Something like wearing art itself.

concerned retail figures arent soaring faster. In Indonesia, shows are not yet generating economy. It is more for marketing because buyers are still lacking, says Soetjipto. This gap between the designers and consumers is something Svida Alijahbana, President Director/COO of Femina Group and chairwoman of Jakarta Fashion Week, is well aware of: But its a question of the chicken or the egg. Which should grow first? Our designers are not known and the attraction for buyers to come isnt there yet. We still have to grow, to bring awareness of our designers and make sure theyre good, she says.

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the WorlD iS their oYSter

photography AA KRESNA

prIyo oKtavIano
In a matter of seven short years, Priyo Oktaviano has shot up into the forefront of the fashion scene because of his flair for the edgy and eclectic. Celebrities like Anggun and Agnes Monica and local fashionistas flock to his frocks and are happy to stimulate the local economy to obtain one of his pieces be it a custom-made gown from his first line, Priyo Oktaviano, or a funky top from his second line, Spous. After being invited for three consecutive years to be a Dewi Fashion Knight a prestigious mention during Jakarta Fashion Week for the years hottest designers and working under Nicolas Ghesquire at Balenciaga in Paris, he is certainly a designer who understands both the Indonesian and the global market. His clothes remains bold and fresh, even as they evolve from using plain European fabric to exploring traditional Indonesian textiles such as ikat, tenun and songket. Playing with fabric and colours, his pieces are consistent in maintaining the detailing and modern silhouettes that Priyo has become known for.
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soetjIpto hoeIjaja
One of the few designers concentrating on everyday menswear, Soetjipto Hoeijaja, 25, is partial to the tailored look. The man who decks himself in Noom by Soetjipto need not be a metrosexual. He need only be a modern man who appreciates a bit of the dapper and the dandy. With a strong design presence in Level One, his collection features affordable basic menswear such as pants, shirts, and vests. Though he remains conservative when it comes to his colour palette of blacks and silvers, Noom is a menswear line that calls upon Soetjiptos unique interpretation of classic. An outfit may look ordinary from afar, but come closer and the marrying of mixed fabrics such as a polyester blazer with a leather trimmed collar will be visible. His upcoming womenswear line, Nomi, keeps to his loose and tailored style. It maintains a hint of masculinity, channeling the androgynous looks of YSL and Celine. Nomi will be launched in March 2011.
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teX saverIo
Imagine ballgowns, princesses, ice-queens, and fairy tales. That is exactly what the elfin Tex Saverio does - create a fantasy. His dramatic gowns billow, waists are corseted to shapely perfection, bosoms are uplifted. A designer untarnished by formal fashion education, Rio, 27, first burst into the scene in 2010. His pieces are theatrical spectacles by themselves, able to be carried by women strong enough not to be overwhelmed by his evening and bridal wear. Not to be mistaken for gaudy glamour, Rios gowns are striking but classy with asymmetrical lines that sweep the figure, laser cuts, and layered motifs. Each piece takes two to three painstakingly long months to design and construct. To add to that, there is Rios unusual choice of fabric, anging from dyed feathers to synthetic skin. He is, indeed, one of the few young designers keeping in line with the Old Guard who treasure the creation of fashion as art.
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stella rIssa
If there is anyone who understands a womans curves, it is Stella Rissa. Her choice of fabric and cuts create silhouettes that fall ever so flatteringly over a womans many dimensions. Whether she is experimenting with deconstructed lines or touches upon a lingerie-inspired theme, Stella creates for the every woman for the girl, the mother, the daughter, the wife, the professional. Since she burst onto the fashion scene in 2008 with her debut collection Dancing in the Rainbow, Stella, 25, has consistently won regional accolades. Creating clothes to accentuate a womans allure, Stella does timeless with a twist, such as classic lines with a surprise feature or a dash of fuschia to a subtle black gown. During Jakarta Fashion Week 2010, she held the prestigious title as one of the five Dewi Fashion Knights. This year she is aiming higher, fleshing out a deluxe ready-to-wear line of lace, tulle, and gabardine to clothe the mature lady in her own boutique. The Stella Rissa boutique will launch in Grand Indonesia in early April 2011.
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deden sIswanto
Bandung-based designer Deden Siswanto is what one would call a couturier. Since the late 90s, he has been fashioning custom-made clothes for upscale clients individuals seeking a stand-out piece. A graduate of Bandungs Intermodel fashion school, Deden started his career as a simple tailor working as a childrens clothes designer at a department store. His was a steady rise. For the last eight years, Deden has been the head of the Association of Indonesian Fashion Designers (APPMI) of Bandung. Deriving inspiration from different cultures, eras, and folklore, his clothes revolves around vintage and romantic styles, with a touch of ethnic. He is best known for his evening and bridal wear, swathing womens curves in waves of chiffon and organza. Meanwhile, the readyto-wear menswear line he developed for the Fashion First boutique is clean-cut. But the use of sheer fabrics like voile, and minor detailing add an impish allure. A deluxe ready-to-wear line for women is planned for April 2011.
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jeffry tan
Simple, effortless, and subtle are words that best describe Jeffry Tan. The designer from Surabaya took the long way around to establishing his own brand, which is just two years in the making. Jeffry, 27, honed his skills in a side of the fashion industry most designers do not venture to working for five years with fabric manufacturers and in factories in order to obtain a wide-angled view of the fashion machine as a whole. The result? A limited ready-to-wear line with pieces that veer on edge of classic and whimsical, technically sound yet priced accessibly. On his racks can be found both a Jackie-O shift crafted out of light wool and a pair of jeans with cut-out sides and red leather detailing. His upcoming fall/winter collection gets cosy with knits and combed wool for his menswear line, while women will have a chance to drape themselves in his loose, layered basics.
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vInora ng
A fresh face that will soon be a household name, Vinora Ng, 21, can still hold her own among the fashion heavy-weights. Her talent was first recognised when she won the 2009 Fashion Design Competition for her designs using North Sulawesi weaves. The Esmod graduate has a penchant for Indonesian textiles, fusing traditional weaves with straightforward designs. She foregoes the ubiquitous batik, choosing the thicker weaves of ikat and tenun from Sumba, Bali, Lampung, and Garut. She pulls off playful looks like her voluminous shift in heavy fabrics and artful, with her seamless gatherings on a five-layered lasercut vest. Focusing on high quality traditional fabrics and dynamic but simple cuts, Vinora is carving a niche market with her exclusive readyto-wear line for both men and women. Her store is set to open in late 2011.

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