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Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS


A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

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Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

LOCATOR MAP
Llandinam Dolfor Acton

Llanidloes
Pant Mawr Ponterwyd

Lydbury North Astonon-Clun

Llangurig

Tylwch

Newcastle Llanbadarn Fynydd Llanbister

Clun Hopton Heath New Invention

Devil's Bridge Ysbyty Ystwyth Lledrod Pontrhydfendigaid Cwmystwyth

Pant-y-dwr

4
Knighton

POWYS
Rhayader
Elan Village Newbridge on Wye Nantmel Crossgates

2
Bleddfa

3
Whitton

Adforton

Presteigne

CEREDIGION
Tregaron

Llandrindod Wells

725
New Radnor Titley Walton Llanfihangelnant-Melan Pembridge

Kington
Weobley

Pentrellwyn-llwyd Beulah

Newchurch

r
Llanwrtyd Wells Pumsaint Cilycwm

Llangamarch Wells

Builth Wells
Alltmawr Upper Chapel Erwood Glasbury

Whitneyon-Wye Willersley

Hay-on-Wye

Cynghordy Blaen Dyryn

12 14 Pwllgloyw 15
Lower Chapel

11

9 10

Peterchurch

Crugybar

Three Cocks Turnastone

Llandovery

Talgarth Ewyas Harold Llanthony Pontrilas Bwlch

Llanwrda Myddfai Llangadog Maerdy Twynllanan

Trecastle Sennybridge

16 Defynnog
Crai

Brecon

13
Libanus

Llangors

Llandeilo

18
Llangynidr Brynaman Abercraf Glyntawe

Crickhowell

17

Llanvetherine

19

Abergavenny

Gwaun-CaeGurwen
Ystalyfera Pontardawe
GlynNeath

Brynmawr

Merthyr Tydfil
Hirwaun
MERTHYR

Tredegar

Ebbw Vale

Blaenavon

BLAENAU GWENT

New Tredegar

ADVERTISERS AND PLACES OF INTEREST


Accommodation, Food and Drink
2| 3| 4| 5| 6| 7| 10| Tower House Gallery, Knighton The Knighton Hotel, Knighton Bryn Heulog Guest House, Llanfairwaterdine Radnorshire Arms Hotel, Presteigne Swan At Hay, Hay on Wye Old Black Lion, Hay on Wye The Granary Cafe Restaurant, Hay on Wye pg 8 pg 9 pg 10 pg 11 pg 13 pg 14 pg 17 11| 12| 13| 14| Holly Bush Inn and Campsite, Llanigon River Cafe and B&B at Glasbury, Glasbury on Wye Pilgrims Tea Rooms, Brecon Alltybrain Farm Cottages, Llandefaelog Fach, nr Brecon 15| Pwllgloyw Arms, Pwllgloyw, nr Brecon 17| The Courtroom Caf, Crickhowell 19| Hall Farm Barn, Llangenny, nr Crickhowell pg 18 pg 18 pg 24 pg 25 pg 25 pg 29 pg 33

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

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1| Llandrindod Wells Victorian Festival, Llandrindod Wells 12| River Cafe and B&B at Glasbury, Glasbury on Wye pg 4 pg 18

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pg 16

Gifts
9| Number Two, Hay on Wye

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

Home and Garden


9| Number Two, Hay on Wye 16| Trecastle Antiques and Salvage Centre, Trecastle pg 16 pg 28

Antiques and Restoration


16| Trecastle Antiques and Salvage Centre, Trecastle pg 28

Jewellery
9| Number Two, Hay on Wye pg 16

Arts and Crafts


2| 8| 9| 16| Tower House Gallery, Knighton The Hay Makers, Hay on Wye Number Two, Hay on Wye Trecastle Antiques and Salvage Centre, Trecastle pg 8 pg 15 pg 16 pg 28

Places of Interest
1| Llandrindod Wells Victorian Festival, Llandrindod Wells 12| River Cafe and B&B at Glasbury, Glasbury on Wye pg 4 pg 18

Fashions
9| Number Two, Hay on Wye pg 16

Specialist Food and Drink Shops


8| Welsh Venison Centre, Bwlch, nr Crickhowell pg 31

South Powys & Brecon Beacons


At one time the southern part of the county of Powys was best known for its four spa towns, Llandrindod Wells, Builth Wells, Llangammarch Wells and Llanwrtyd Wells. Today, the lure of sulphurous waters has lost much of its appeal but all four of them retain a charm and elegance that seems to be an intrinsic characteristic of spa towns everywhere. Surrounding these elegant towns is a varied countryside ranging from the bulky Cambrian Mountains in the west to fertile farmland in the east. Close to Rhayader are the spectacular reservoirs and dams that make up the scenic Elan Valley. Built at the end of the 19th century to supply water to the West Midlands, the reservoirs are a great feat of Victorian engineering, and the surrounding hills are home to one of Britains rarest and most beautiful birds the red kite. Further south lies the Brecon Beacons National Park, which takes its name from the distinctively shaped sandstone mountains of the Brecon Beacons. Two other ranges lie within the parks 519 square miles. To the east of the Brecon Beacons rise the interlocking peaks of the Black Mountains, which stretch to the English border; to the west is Black Mountain, which, though its name is singular, refers to an unpopulated range of barren, smooth-humped peaks. One of the areas most impressive natural features lies underground the largest complex of underground caverns in northern Europe can be explored just outside Craig-y-Nos. Perhaps because the population here has always been sparse, there are few buildings of special note. A major exception is Brecon Cathedral, half church of God and half castle against the Welsh. Museums of particular interest include the National Cycle Collection in Llandrindod Wells, and bookworms will surely find irresistible a visit to Hay-on-Wye, the second-hand book capital of the world. Equally, aficionados of eccentric sports will be drawn to Llanwrtyd Wells in August for the annual World Bog Snorkelling Championship.

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Llandrindod Wells
A Old Parish Church of Llandrindod E Bailey Einion E Abercamlo Bog I Victorian Festival D Radnor Forest A Parish Church of the Holy Trinity B Radnorshire Museum B National Cycle Collection C Castell Collen C Heart of Wales Line D Rock Park

The most elegant of the spa towns of midWales, Llandrindod Wells is still a popular place that has retained much of its Victorian and Edwardian character and architecture. It

was only a scattering of cottages and two churches until 1749 when the first hotel was built here. It had several hundred rooms and its facilities included hairdressers, milliners and glovers. There was a billiards room and large function rooms for balls and assemblies. And visitors could also sample the spa waters, which had been known about since Roman times. But it was not until the coming of the Central Wales Railway in 1866, along with the Victorians enthusiasm for taking the waters that Llandrindod Wells really developed into a spa town. At the peak of the towns prosperity some 80,000 visitors a year came to take the

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

Llandrindod Wells Victorian Festival


Victorian Festival Office, Wadham House, Middleton Street, Llandrindod Wells, Powys LD1 5DG Tel: 01597 823441 e-mail : info@victorianfestival.co.uk website: www.vicfest.co.uk
Each year Llandrindod Wells hosts a Victorian festival. Held in the last full week of August before the Bank Holiday, this popular festival is going from strength to strength and has now become one of the premier Victorian festivals in Britain today. As Llandrindod was a thriving spa resort in the Victorian era it is natural to base the festival on the Victorian theme. The towns unspoilt architecture provides a perfect backdrop to the celebrations and, on Temple Gardens, there is an ideal venue for the many different types of street entertainment provided free for the visitors and townsfolk throughout the day. The aim of the festival is to provide a family fun festival and to cater for all ages and tastes, whilst keeping to a Victorian theme. Attracting some 40,000 visitors to a town that has a population of only 5,000 is no mean feat, but the apparent ease with which it is done is largely due to the transformation achieved in the towns reversion to the Victorian era. The effect of horses and carriages, Victorian window displays and the townspeople and some visitors sporting a whole range of appropriate costumes creates an atmosphere, the effect of which is nothing short of miraculous. At the end of the nine days, the proceedings are closed in the grandest of manners with the moving torchlight procession and fireworks display over the lake - a spectacle not to be missed.

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waters in an attempt to obtain relief from ailments ranging from gout, rheumatism and anaemia to diabetes, dyspepsia and liver trouble. Special baths and heat and massage treatments were also available. The most famous of the individual spas in Llandrindod during its heyday, Rock Park is a typically well laid out Victorian park where visitors coming to the town would take a walk between their treatments. With particularly fine tree planting and shrubbery, the park is still a very pleasant place. Todays visitors can find out more about the towns history at the Radnorshire Museum in Temple Street where there is a display of Victorian artefacts, a large collection of photographs and exhibits on social history. Theres also a collection of relics excavated from Castell Collen, a Roman fort to the northwest of the town that was occupied from the 1st century through to the early 4th century and whose earthworks are clearly detectable today. Located in the Automobile Palace, a distinctive Art Deco brick garage topped by rows of white lions, is the National Cycle Collection, an exhibition that covers almost 200 years of cycling history through an amazing collection of more than 200 bicycles and tricycles. Some date back as far as 1818, and the collection spans every development from the hobby horse and bone-shaker to the high-tech machines of today. Also here are old photographs and posters, historic replicas, the Dunlop tyre story and displays on cycling stars. Each year in the last full week of August, Llandrindod Wells hosts a Victorian Festival, swelling the population of the town from its resident 5000 to more than 40,000. Horses and carriages, Victorian window displays,

townspeople and visitors in period garb, all contribute to the jollity, which culminates in a torchlight procession and a fireworks display over the lake. And the Royal Welsh Show, the largest agricultural show in the UK, is held in July each year at Llanelwedd, six miles south of Llandrindod Wells, There are still two Anglican churches serving Llandrindod Wells. The Old Parish Church of Llandrindod (The Church of the Holy Trinity), just outside the town, is 13th-century, though its roof was later removed to encourage people to attend the new church in the town. It was rebuilt in 1894. The Parish Church of the Holy Trinity within the town was built in 1871, and is a much larger and grander affair. Just outside Llandrindod Wells, off the A44 Rhayader road, there is free access to Abercamlo Bog, 12 acres of wet pasture that are home to water-loving plants, breeding birds such as the whinchat and reed bunting, and butterflies. Not far away, at Ithon gorge, is Bailey Einion, woodland home to lady fern, golden saxifrage, pied flycatchers, woodpeckers and cardinal beetles. Wales is famous for its amazing little narrow-gauge railways, but it also has some full-size trains, too. One of the most popular tourist lines is the Heart of Wales Line that runs from Shrewsbury to Swansea, one line that visits two viaducts, three castles, four spa towns, five counties, six tunnels and seven bridges. Dolau, six miles to the northeast of Llandrindod Wells, is the best starting point on the line to walk to the top of Radnor Forest, the highest point in the old county of Radnorshire. Llanbister Road and Llangunllo are nearby request halts ideally placed for discovering the remoter scenic delights of the area.

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

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Around Llandrindod Wells


ABBEY-CWM-HIR 6 miles N of Llandrindod Wells off the A483
A Cwmhir Abbey A The Hall at Abbey-Cwm-Hir

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

Standing rather forlornly in the lonely Clywedog Valley are the scant remains of Cwmhir Abbey, founded in 1143 by the Cistercians who had grandiose plans to build one of the largest churches in Britain. They planned a nave more than 242ft long only the cathedrals of Durham, Winchester and York have a longer nave. Unfortunately, an attack by Henry III in 1231 forced them to abandon their plans. There is a memorial stone on the altar to Llywelyn the Last that marks, many believe, the grave of his headless body the head had been despatched to London. Overlooking the abbey ruins is The Hall at Abbey-Cwm-Hir, which has been described as one of the finest examples of Victorian Gothic Revival architecture in Wales. It was built in 1834 and doubled in size in 1869. Paul and Victoria Humpherston bought the house in 1997 and spent the next 9 years restoring it to its original splendour, a process recorded in several TV documentaries. They now personally conduct visitors around the 52 public rooms where features such as marble fireplaces, rococo ceilings, gothic windows, Victorian bell pulls, stained glass ceilings and Minton Hollins tiled floors are all still in place. The formal rooms, the entrance hall, billiards, library, drawing and dining rooms are particularly noteworthy. There are various collections on display, amongst them clocks, phonographs, vintage signs and packaging, china and vehicles. Outside, the 12 acres of landscaped grounds include 4 terraces, a walled garden, lake and waterfall.

Cwmhir Abbey, Abbey-Cwm-Hir

RHAYADER 6 miles NW of Llandrindod Wells on the A44


A Rhayader Castle E Gigrin Farm E Gilfach Farm Nature Reserve F Rebecca Riots H Welsh Royal Crystal J Wye Valley Walk

Often referred to as the Gateway to the Lakeland of Wales, Rhayader lies within a loop of the River Wye at the entrance to the magnificent Elan Valley, with its impressive collection of dams and reservoirs. This town, whose name means Waterfall of the Wye, dates back to the 5th century, though the waterfall all but disappeared with the construction of a bridge over the river in 1780. The older part of the town contains a wide variety of architectural styles ranging from the 17th century Old Swan pub and Ye Olde Corner Shoppe, through dignified Georgian buildings and grand Victorian public buildings such as the Old Police Station and Courthouse. Throughout the year the town holds regular markets for sheep, cattle and ponies, and the May Fair is still held as it was when it doubled as a hiring fair for farm workers. Little except some defensive ditches remains of Rhayader Castle, built here by Rhys ap Gryffydd in about 1177. More recently, Rhayader was the scene of some of the Rebecca Riots protesting against toll gates The men, who dressed up as women to disguise

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themselves, earning themselves the nickname Rebeccas Daughters, destroyed turnpikes in protest at the high toll charges. Many tall stories have grown up around these riots. Some of them concern Rebecca herself who is said to have appeared as an old blind woman at the toll gate and said, My children, something is in my way. The first gate to be destroyed was at Yr Efail Wen, where Rebecca proved to be a huge man called Thomas Rees. Many toll gates were demolished by the protesters until, in 1844, the remainder were removed legally. Welsh Royal Crystal is the only manufacturer of handcrafted lead crystal tableware and gift items in Wales. Located just to the east of the town, the factory takes visitors on a guided tour to watch the craftsmen at work producing a wide range of items from stemware to large bowls, with exclusive Celtic designs that incorporate ancient Celtic motifs. Glass-blowing demonstrations take place on certain days and theres a wellstocked shop selling Welsh Crystal products at bargain prices. Rhayader is at one end of the beautiful Wye Valley Walk, which follows the river valley, criss-crossing the border, through Builth Wells and Hay-on-Wye to Hereford, Monmouth and Chepstow. Mid-Wales was home to the last remaining native Red Kites and thanks to the work of various conservation bodies today it has the greatest density and diversity of birds of prey in southern Britain. Described as the best place to see and photograph these striking birds Gigrin Farm, on the outskirts of Rhayader, has regular feeding sessions and also operates a rehabilitation centre for injured birds.

of the Elan Valley a string of five dammed lakes that are together around nine miles long and were constructed between 1892 and 1903. Created to supply millions of gallons of water to Birmingham and the West Midlands, the first of the dams was opened in 1904 by Edward VII and Queen Alexandra, and the final dam, the Claerwen Dam, was finished in 1952. Dubbed the Lakeland of Wales, the five man-made lakes are surrounded by magnificent scenery and have become a popular area for walkers, cyclists and birdwatchers. The Elan Valley Visitor Centre, as well as incorporating a tourist information office, also has an exhibition telling the story of the building of the reservoirs and lots of information about the red kite. Percy Bysshe Shelley visited his cousin Thomas Grove at Cwm Elan after being expelled from Oxford for writing a treatise supporting atheism. Soon after this visit he eloped with the schoolgirl Harriet Westbrook and married her in Scotland. They returned to Wales and for a brief spell in 1812 stayed at a house called Nantgwyllt. Like Thomas Groves house, it is now submerged under the waters of Caben Coch reservoir, but when the water level is low the walls of the garden can still be seen. Elan Village itself is comparatively modern having been built at the time the dams were constructed. With its wide streets and sturdy stone-built houses it is unique in Wales.

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

ST HARMON 8 miles NW of Llandrindod Wells on the B4518


A Parish Church of St Harmon E Gilfach Farm Nature Reserve

ELAN VILLAGE 8 miles W of Llandrindod Wells off the B4518


E Elan Valley E Caben Coch

The village is close to the beautiful reservoirs

The Parish Church of St Harmon is believed to be the last church in Radnorshire where services were conducted in Welsh; the

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last such service was held in 1865. It is also notable for being the church where the diarist Francis Kilvert was vicar in 1876 and 1877. The church was built in 1821 and is a simple affair with a very short chancel. Kilvert was curate to his father in Wiltshire before taking up a post at Clyro in 1865, where he started his famous diaries. They are detailed, vivid and very personal accounts of life in the remote Welsh countryside in mid-Victorian times. Back to England, then a year here, then back to Bredwardine in Herefordshire, where he married. He died five weeks later of peritonitis, aged only 39. Occupying a beautiful location where the Marteg River flows into the River Wye Gilfach Farm Nature Reserve has a wide variety of habitats, ranging from high moorland to enclosed meadow; from oak woodland to rocky upland river. This diversity

supports an abundance of birds and animals within a comparatively small area. At the heart of the farm is a Welsh longhouse, a traditional building developed over many centuries from a wooden cruck-framed medieval hall. In an 18th century stone barn opposite there are exhibitions on both the longhouse and the surrounding wildlife.

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

Knighton
A Spaceguard Centre B Offas Dyke Centre C Pinners Hole E Kinsley Wood J Glyndwrs Way

Situated in the Teme Valley on the border of Powys and Shropshire, half in Wales and half in England, Knighton lies on the path of Offas Dyke. The Welsh name for the town is Tref-y-Clawdd, which means town of the

TOWER HOUSE GALLERY 29 High Street, Knighton, Powys, LD7 1AT Tel: 01547 529530 e-mail: jlr.thg@virgin.net website: www.thegalleryknighton.co.uk
Situated by the clock tower in the picturesque border town of Knighton, Tower House Gallery provides an exhibition venue for the work of the artists and crafts people of the Welsh Marches. The gallery displays work in a variety of media from oils, acrylics and watercolours to ceramics, textiles and wood. They also stock a comprehensive range of materials - from artist and student quality paints, pastels, pencils and papers to fair-trade buttons, jewellery and textiles. The stock of glass, crystal and semi precious beads positively entices you to browse through the cabinets. Drop in for homemade cakes, breads and soup or try the range of leaf teas and freshly-ground coffee. Sit and enjoy the scenery and try out a new hobby! This is not an experience to be rushed! Summer Opening: 9.30 to 6.00 Tuesday to Saturday and 11.00 to 4.00 on Sundays. Winter Opening 9.30 to 5.00 Tuesday to Saturday.

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Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

THE KNIGHTON HOTEL Broad Street, Knighton, Powys, Shropshire LD7 1BL Tel: 01547 520530 Fax: 01547 520529 e-mail: info@theknighton.com website: www.theknighton.com
The Knighton Hotel is now under new management and has recently been refurbished to an exceptional standard, where every aspect will impress the most discerning visitor from arrival to reluctant departure. Its impressive Georgian frontage gives the first taste of elegance, opening its doors to reveal a handsome freestanding cantilever hardwood staircase, the only one of its kind in the area. Many say its worth a visit just to see this feat of architecture; a real work of craftsmanship. Through the archway, sixteen superior bedrooms greet guests over two floors with executive suites also available. All rooms are decadently luxurious and decorated in a traditional, yet sleek style. Each bedrooms comes with its own en suite, many equipped with gorgeous free standing baths. Many rooms offer picturesque views across the surrounding area, stretching the eye out over towards the hills and the famous Offas Dyke. The hotel also boasts a large function room, a popular choice for weddings and parties to make any special occasion extra special. The hotels restaurant, Kings Offa is open daily between 123pm and 6-8:30pm to both residents and non-residents, as is the bar which offers a separate games room complete with pool tables and darts boards. Guests can enjoy a range of bar snacks or some fine a la carte dining, with starters like steamed mussels or melon medley cocktail, and mains like braised lambs liver in red wine gravy, grilled pork steak with a creamy tarragon and mushroom sauce and roast crown of turkey served with fresh market vegetables. Desserts include Eaton mess cheesecake and jumbo profiteroles- wonderfully indulgent.

dyke. Appropriately, it is home to the Offas Dyke Centre, which has copious information about the long distance footpath that runs from Prestatyn to Chepstow. Visitors are greeted by King Offa himself and can find out more about the historic background to the 8th century dyke and the bloodshed caused by the battles that continued in the borderlands for hundreds of years. Knighton and its near neighbour, the border town of Presteigne, saw many battles between the Anglo Saxons and the Celts. It was customary for the English to cut off the ears of every Welshman who was found to the east of the Dyke (Offas), and for the Welsh to hang every Englishman found to the west of it, wrote George Borrow in his 19th-century book, Wild Wales. Beginning in Knighton, Glyndwrs Way

follows the route taken by Owain Glyndwr, one of Wales most famous sons, as he fought the English for Welsh independence in the 1400s. This scenic and important route travels southwest to Abbey-Cwm-Hir, passing by the ancient abbey ruins before heading northwards into the old county of Montgomeryshire and the market town of Llanidloes. The 128 miles of the path take in some of the finest scenery in mid-Wales before reaching Machynlleth, from where it heads southeast and finally ends at the border town of Welshpool. The Spaceguard Centre is situated within the former Powys Observatory. It was created to observe and track comets and asteroids that might collide with our planet and, for this purpose, boasts the most powerful telescope in Wales. It offers guided tours and has a shop

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selling astronomy-related gifts. Beside the banks of the River Teme is Pinners Hole, a natural amphitheatre that is strengthened on one side by a superb section of Offas Dyke where there is a stone that commemorates the opening of the footpath. Across the river lies Kinsley Wood, a sizeable area of native oak woodland. Sited on a hillside, trees of different species were planted to form the letters ER to commemorate the Coronation of Elizabeth II in 1953.

tower collapsed and was never rebuilt. The foundations of the tower can still be seen. Inside, the west end is partitioned off, as it was formerly a schoolroom. The communion rails and pulpit are 17th century.

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

PRESTEIGNE 5 miles S of Knighton on the B4362


A The Radnorshire Arms A Dukes Arms A Parish Church of St Andrew B Judges Lodging F Mary Morgan

Around Knighton
BLEDDFA 5 miles SW of Knighton on the A488
The Parish Church of St Mary Magdalene is medieval in origin, though its unusual wooden bell turret dates from 1711, when the west

Once the county town of Radnorshire, Presteigne is a charming and unspoilt place on the southern bank of the River Lugg. You only have to cross a small 17th century stone bridge to find yourself in England. In recent years it has seen an influx of escapees from urban stress and now has a smattering of craft shops, trendy cafes, antique shops and second-

BRYN HEULOG GUEST HOUSE Sunny Hill, Llanfairwaterdine, nr Knighton, Powys LD7 1TU Tel: 01547 528155 e-mail: bryn.heulog@bednbreakfast.co.uk website: www.bednbreakfast.co.uk
Nestled into a hillside and standing within beautiful gardens is the Bryn Heulog Guest House. This large and modern guest house has been awarded 4 stars by the Welsh Tourist Board and offers comfortable bed and breakfast accommodation. En-suite family, double, twin and single rooms are available, equipped with televisions and tea and coffee making facilities. After enjoying a hearty home cooked breakfast in the dining room, you will be ready for a day of exploring. There is plenty to enjoy from this fantastic location on the border between Shropshire and Wales. A minimum stay of 2-3 nights is recommended in order to fully experience what the area has to offer. This includes many walks, such as Offas Dyke, which crosses the border between England and Wales more than ten times, The Jack Mytton Way and the Gwyndwr Way. Hay-on-Wye is only a short 45 minutes drive south, with the West Midlands and Cheshire only 90 minutes drive away. Across the road from Bryn Heulog Guest House, the Waterdine Inn has a reputation for fine cuisine and offers light meals and a full a la carte menu at lunch and in the evenings. There is ample parking at Bryn Heulog and guests have their own private access.

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11

hand bookshops. A recent Country Life survey placed this attractive town in the Top 10 best places to live in Britain. The AA added that the road from Presteigne to Aberystwyth was among the top 10 scenic routes, not just in Britain, but in Europe. A border town distinguished by its handsome black and white half-timbered buildings, Presteigne grew up around a Norman castle that has long since gone, the site now being occupied by a pleasant park. Presteignes history is as turbulent as that of most of the region. It was captured by the Mercians in the 8th century, besieged by Llywelyn in 1262, and pillaged by Owain Glyndwr in the early 15th century. By Tudor times the town had got its breath back and had become a peaceful market centre, but it was its position on a major mail coach route between London, Cheltenham, Gloucester

and Aberystwyth that brought it prosperity and importance. One of the towns most outstanding buildings is The Radnorshire Arms, which dates from 1616. Originally built as a house for Sir Christopher Hatton, one of Elizabeth Is courtiers, this superb timber framed building became the property of the Bradshaw family before becoming an inn in 1792. The best known member of this family was John Bradshaw, who was Lord President of the Parliamentary Commission that brought Charles I to trial. He headed the list of signatories to the Kings death warrant, refusing to let him speak in his defence. The town also claims the oldest inn in Radnorshire, the Dukes Arms. Records show that an inn, which was burnt down by Owain Glyndwr, stood here in 1401. The rebuilt inn became a local headquarters for the Roundheads during

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

THE RADNORSHIRE ARMS HOTEL High Street, Presteigne, Powys, Hereford ED8 2BE Tel: 01544 267 406 Fax: 01544 260418 e-mail: info@rawales.com website: www.radnorshirearmshotel.com
One of Presteignes most striking buildings is the Radnorshire Arms Hotel, a 17th century half-timbered structure that was originally built as a house for Sir Christopher Hatton, one of Elizabeth Is leading courtiers. Presteigne is a perfect base to visit Ludlow, Shropshire and the Radnorshire Hills, including the famous Offas Dyke which forms the border between Wales and England. This family hotel boasts a three star rating and has eleven en suite rooms and eight spacious garden rooms, all en suite and fully equipped to the highest standard with WiFi access. The garden rooms are pet-friendly and have a room only or bed and breakfast rate. For the ultimate dining experience, the Oak Room and The Hattons both offer a superb range of fresh, home-cooked meals; including vegetarian and special diets which make the most of the exceptional local and seasonal produce. Other amenities include a residents lounge, drying room, a traditional bar and a large landscaped garden with a childrens play area. There is assisted disabled access to the garden rooms and full access to the bar and restaurants and parking is via two car parks, one situated at the front and the other at the rear of the hotel. A garage facility is available by prior booking for cyclists and motorbikes.

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the Civil War and, in later centuries, was an important coaching inn. The last ever mail coach to run in Britain left from here The Parish Church of St Andrew is possibly the most handsome church in Radnorshire. It stands in the valley of the River Lugg and is originally from Saxon times, though it was rebuilt in about 1200. The nave and chancel of the present building are from the 14th and 15th century. Although the grand neo-classical Judges Lodging only dates from 1829, it is another fascinating attraction in Presteigne. Designed by Edward Haycock and built on the site of the county gaol, this was the judicial centre for Radnorshire and the home of the Radnorshire Constabulary. Today, the house, with its adjoining court, has been furnished as it would have appeared in 1870, and visitors can explore the world of the judges, their servants and the felons. One of the trials held here concerned 17-year-old Mary Morgan who in 1805 gave birth to an illegitimate child that her father persuaded her to murder. Her crime was detected and she was sentenced to death. Incredibly, her father was a member of the jury that found her guilty. In the churchyard of St Andrews there are two gravestones recalling the event: the first, erected at the time, is nauseatingly sanctimonious about the victim of sin and shame; the second, set up later by chastened townspeople, is inscribed He that is without sin among you, let him cast the first stone at her. The eminent Australian painter Sidney Nolan retired to Presteigne and the Sidney Nolan Trust holds regular exhibitions of his work and that of other artists at his house, The Rodd, just outside the town. The Trust also exhibits at the world-renowned Presteigne Festival of Music and the Arts, which takes

place every year over the August Bank holiday.

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

OLD RADNOR 8 miles S of Knighton off the A44


A Parish Church of St Stephen

Situated on a hill, Old Radnor was once owned by King Harold. The motte by the church was the site of his castle. The Parish Church of St Stephen contains interesting examples of 14th-century building design, as well as a huge font made from a glacial boulder, which may have been a prehistoric altar. The churchs most notable feature is the superb late 15th century screen, one of the finest in Wales. Another remarkable piece of woodwork in the church is the organ case, which was built in the 16th century and is the earliest surviving organ case in the British Isles. Stephen, or Ystyffan, lived in the 6th century, and was a member of the royal family that ruled Powys. The church is the only one in Wales dedicated to that particular saint.

NEW RADNOR 8 miles SW of Knighton off the A44


A New Radnor Castle A Parish Church of St Mary

Up until the late 19th century, this small town was the county town of Radnorshire. Courts were convened here and justice meted out. The town is overlooked by an 11th-century motte, all that remains of its once mighty castle. Like many other strongholds in this border region, New Radnor Castle suffered at various hands. It was destroyed by King John, rebuilt by Henry III, and destroyed again by Owain Glyndwr in 1401. The Parish Church of St Mary stands on a hill overlooking the village, and is totally unlike the one at Old Radnor, having been built between 1843 and 1845. However, a church has stood here for centuries, and the

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present building incorporates fragments of a medieval screen in its communion rails and two worn effigies, no doubt from tombs in an earlier church built in the 14th century. New Radnor was the start point in 1187 of a tour of Wales by Archbishop Baldwin, who was accompanied by the scholar and churchman Giraldus Cambrensis. They preached the Third Crusade, and after the tour, Baldwin, the first archbishop to visit Wales, made a pilgrimage to the Holy Land where he died. Baldwin was the Bishop of Worcester before becoming Archbishop of Canterbury, in which capacity he crowned Richard I.

Hay-on-Wye
A Hay Motte H Festival of Art and Literature H Hay-on-Wye Craft Centre A Hay Castle A Clock Tower A Butter Market A Cheese Market

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

This ancient town with its network of narrow streets is noted for its range of galleries well as antique, print, craft and gift shops. Above all, it is famous as the second-hand book capital of the world. The first second-hand bookshop was opened in the former Fire Station in 1961 by ex-Guards officer Richard Booth. He went on

THE SWAN AT HAY Church Street, Hay-on-Wye, Powys HR3 5DQ Tel: 01497 821188 e-mail: stay@swanathay.co.uk website: www.swanathay.co.uk
Located in the charming Victorian market town of Hay-onWye, The Swan At Hay is nestled between The Black Mountains and the Brecon Beacons. With the Wye Valley just moments away, this magnificent hotel is perfectly placed for guests to enjoy wonderful walks with breathtaking scenery. The Swan is run by the Mackintosh family and occupies a beautiful Grade 2 listed Georgian coaching inn bursting with charm and character. The hotel has two restaurants, The Garden Room and The Bistro, serving award winning food. The garden is the perfect place to dine alfresco on warm afternoons and evenings. The menu features classic British favourites including a traditional Sunday Lunch with some of the largest Yorkshire puddings you can find! Dishes are created using locally sourced ingredients including Welsh Marshes lamb, Herefordshire beef and fresh produce grown in the Wye Valley. There are many fine wines to accompany your meal and you can also sample some Wye Valley real ales. The guest accommodation is full of charm and character with many of the rooms enjoying period features and views of the beautiful garden. All 17 rooms differ in shape and size and include en-suite facilities. In the morning guests enjoy a delicious full Welsh breakfast.

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Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

THE OLD BLACK LION Lion Street, Hay-on-Wye, Powys/ Hereford HR3 5AD Tel: 01497 820841 e-mail: info@oldblacklion.co.uk website: www.oldblacklion.co.uk
The Old Black Lion is a 17th Century Inn full of historic charm and situated in the heart of Hay-on-Wye close to the original entrance to the old walled town, once known as the Lion Gate. Friendly host Dolan Leighton and her excellent and efficient staff will warmly welcome you into the tranquil atmosphere of this four star inn. The oak timbered bar and comfy arm chairs are sure to tempt you to enjoy a drink or two before you unpack your bags, with an extensive wine list to choose from as well as a range of local ales including The Old Black Lion brew. The award winning restaurant features in the Michelin Guide and has received many prestigious accolades, including a well deserved AA rosette. Also featured on Great Pubs of Wales as seen on TV. Diners choose from a seasonally changing menu with daily specials including light snacks, lunches and main meals all imaginatively produced using the freshest available ingredients. The best of British produce is used where possible including locally reared meat (some organic), locally sourced fresh seafood and seasonal vegetables and herbs. The restaurant is hugely popular so it is advisable to book a table ahead of your visit. The guest accommodation comprises 10 individually styled en-suite bedrooms which enjoy all modern amenities and comfort and have recently been sympathetically and tastefully refurbished to a high standard. For a truly decadent experience you can treat yourself to a stay in the Cromwell Suite, an extra special and luxurious place to unwind. The suite is sumptuously decorated and even has its own galleried seating area. Located within some of the most breathtaking scenery in Wales, The Old Black Lion is a stylish and relaxing place from which to explore the many charms and delights of the historic town of Hay-on-Wye. With ample car parking, your wheels can take a break as you set out on foot to take in the stunning scenery of the surrounding Brecon Beacons National Park to the west and the Black Mountains to the South.

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Clock Tower, Hay-on-Wye

to convert the New Plaza Cinema. His bookshops were so successful that in 1971 he bought Hay Castle and converted part of that into a bookshop. There are now more than 30 in all, between them stocking more than a million books on every imaginable subject. This bookish environment has not however been entirely free of controversy. On April Fools Day 1977, Booth crowned himself King of Hay as a protest against what he saw as the corruption and mean-mindedness of local and national government. He distributed peerages and issued passports all of which helped draw attention to this small riverside town. The process of establishing Hay as a premier Booktown was advanced further with the establishment in 1988 of an annual Festival of Literature and the Arts. The moving spirits behind the festival were the Florence family who used the proceeds of a

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

THE HAY MAKERS St Johns Place, Hay-on-Wye, Powys HR3 5BN Tel: 01497 820556 e-mail: info@haymakers.co.uk website: www.haymakers.co.uk
The Hay Makers is a welcoming and friendly gallery run by a co-operative of professional designers and craft makers. Since opening in the 1980s it has gained a reputation for showcasing and selling an exciting array of original and high quality arts and crafts. There is an eclectic range of work on display including pottery, woodturning, furniture, tin-glazed majolica ceramics, stone carving, embroidered jewellery, textiles, hand painted silk ties and printmaking. With an excellent selection of greetings cards and gift wrap on sale, this is a great place to find that perfect present for someone special. Throughout the year there are changing exhibitions showcasing the work of some of the finest contemporary British craft makers. There is also a fine selection of jewellery and leatherwork created by craft makers from Timbuktu and the gallery has raised a considerable amount of money to help these artists trade their way to a more sustainable future. Located at the foot of the Black Mountains in the world famous book town of Hay-on-Wye, The Hay Makers is open daily throughout the year, from 10:30am to 5pm Monday to Saturday and 11am to 4pm on Sundays.

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Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

NUMBER TWO 3 & 6 Castle Street, Hay-On-Wye, Powys HR3 5DF Tel: 01497 821923 e-mail: info@number-two.co.uk website: www.number-two.co.uk
In the unique town of Hay-on-Wye an outstanding shopping experience awaits at Number Two, where style is all about combining individual personality with lifestyle needs. Sue Cutting and her daughter Freya Fiddes lead a creative and passionate team to provide a friendly and personal service. Every item of stock is carefully selected to include beautiful and stylish clothing, shoes, accessories, homeware and gifts. The products are showcased within two fabulous and inspiring shops, each open seven days a week. Number Two Collection is situated at 3 Castle Street and was the founding store, opening in 1997. Offering stylish and effortlessly chic womenswear and accessories, this destination boutique stocks beautiful jewellery and fashionable bags. Current brands on display include Oska, Elemente Clemente, Flax and Sahara. Number Two Style is located on the upper ground floor at 6 Castle Street. It opened in 2003 and was an immediate success. There is a vast range of stylish clothing to choose from including clothes from well known brands like Sandwich, Jackpot, Part Two and Joules, among many others. There is also a fantastic selection of shoes from brands including Fly London, Birkenstock and Dr Martens. Number Two Home is the most recent addition, having opened in April 2010. It can be found on the lower ground floor at number 6 Castle Street. Inside you will find a plethora of unusual and individual gifts and items for the home and garden. There is a stunning array of cushions, throws and decorative objects for the home from brands such as eco friendly and fair trade Nkuku. For the kitchen there is recycled glassware and stylish French stoneware from Jars while for the bathroom and bedroom there is a selection of truly luxurious bath & body products by Branche d Olive and funky retro printed towels and bedding by Orla Kiely. Green fingered shoppers will delight in the Garden and Hardware area which hosts wooden trugs and storage baskets, lanterns and a wealth of decorative garden accessories. There is stunning ironmongery and curtain poles created by a local blacksmith alongside prismatic glass pendant lighting. The childrens area has a range of unique hand crafted wooden and soft toys as well as brightly coloured organic baby clothing. The stationery and greetings area has a fantastic selection of original greetings cards as well as leather bound journals from Nkuku and beautiful printed notepads from Rosehip.

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Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

THE GRANARY CAF RESTAURANT Broad Street, Hay-on-Wye, Powys HR3 5AE Tel: 01497 820790
Opposite the town clock in Hay-on-Wye, The Granary Cafe Restaurant is one of the best-loved eating and meeting places in town. It was established more than 30 years ago, and the owners, sisters Caroline Pryce Mason and Jeannette Barker welcome customers into the traditional inviting surroundings with an open fire in the main area, hops decorating the beamed ceiling, a quiet anteroom and a spacious upstairs room. On the premises they prepare food at very reasonable prices, from, usually three soups, interesting salads to generous main courses and handmade cakes and puddings. The daily choice of hot dishes might typically include authentic curries, spicy mediterranean pasta and meat dishes, fragrant North African tagines, or traditional pies made with shortcrust pastry and filled with beef, chicken or game. There are fish cakes, and smoked trout or salmon, all of which are sourced locally. Apple Strudel, lemon meringue pie, cheesecakes, pies and crumble are but a few of the puddings, with merringues, and scones usually available. The opening hours are 9am-5.30pm, 7 days per week, longer hours including evening meals, during the Hay Festival, and during the summer holidays.Wifi internet available.

poker game to finance it. Ever since, the festival has taken place over ten days in late May and early June. It draws thousands of leading authors and avid readers to the town and was once described by President Bill Clinton as a Woodstock of the mind. The town itself is a pleasing mix of buildings ranging from early timber-framed structures through handsome early 19th century Classical style buildings to some Victorian Gothic examples, notably the elaborate Clock Tower of 1884. Another memorable building is the Butter Market, close to the castle. It was built in classical style in 1833, restored in 1984, and still serves its original function as a sheltered area for market traders and farmers. Nearby, in Memorial Square, is another building in classical style. The 2-storey Cheese Market was completed

in 1845 and for many years was used for meetings of the Town Council. Memorial Square and the adjacent streets provide the setting for Hays colourful Thursday market. The impressive Hay-on-Wye Craft Centre offers visitors a change from books as well as the opportunity to see craftspeople working at age-old skills such as glass blowing, wood turning, pottery and even traditional sweets. Tucked between the Black Mountains and the River Wye in the northern corner of the Brecon Beacons National Park, the town grew up around Hay Motte, which still survives across the river from the main town centre. This castle was eventually replaced by Hay Castle, although this was all but destroyed in the early 1400s by Owain Glyndwr. However, a Jacobean manor house was later grafted on to part of the remaining walls. As noted

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Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

HOLLY BUSH INN AND CAMPSITE Llanigon, nr Hay-on-Wye, Herefordshire HR3 5PS Tel: 01497 847371 e-mail: hollybushcamping@btconnect.com website: www.hollybushcamping.co.uk
The vibrant and quirky Hollybush Inn offers 5 beautifully furnished rooms throughout the year with a choice between 3 en suite double rooms; some complete with own fireplace, or a family room and 2 twin rooms with a shared bathroom. Guests at the inn and nonresidents can enjoy the lively atmosphere below in the inns bar and restaurant which prides itself on catering for special dietary requirements such as vegans, vegetarians and more. All meals are cooked fresh to order with local organic produce so you can really taste the difference. The bar offers a fine choice of country wines, real ales and ciders that can be enjoyed within the cosy inn, or outside in the inns spacious beer garden which has access to the glorious River Wye. Alternately, live music is provided most weekends from a variety of local performing artists. The inn also sports its own campsite with options for camping in fields or wooded areas in either tents, caravans or a range of fantastic tipis that are available to hire. Guests can enjoy the great range of outdoor activities the team arrange also which includes kayaking, canoeing, cycling and hiking, please ring for details.

RIVER CAF & B&B AT GLASBURY Glasbury Bridge, Glasbury on Wye, Nr Hay on Wye, Powys HR3 5NP Tel: 01497 847007 e-mail: info@wyevalleycanoes.co.uk website: www.wyevalleycanoes.co.uk
With a stylish caf and comfortable B&B rooms, The River Caf & B&B at Glasbury is one of the most popular establishments of its kind in the area. Once the villages post office, it sits right on the banks of the River Wye, at the highest point at which canoes can be launched. The caf itself is licensed and serves great food. It is spacious and modern, reflecting its high standards of service and its value for money prices. Everything from fresh crab pasta and sirloin steak with salad and chips to homemade lasagne and fresh grilled sea bass is available, with only the finest and freshest of local produce being used wherever possible. The four B&B rooms are extremely comfortable, and furnished and decorated to a high standard while still retaining a simple, uncluttered look. There are three doubles and a twin, and TVs and tea/coffee making facilities come as standard. All the rooms are fully en-suite. The caf and B&B rooms are open from Wednesday to Sunday all year. The caf owns Wye Valley Canoes, where, in the summer months, you can hire canoes and kayaks, and all the accompanying equipment, for a few hours or even a few days on the river. Packed lunches are available. Whether youre a canoeist, a walker, a cyclist or a motorist, you will be made more than welcome at The River Caf and B&B.

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above, the castle was bought in 1971 by secondhand book magnate Richard Booth and now incorporates his Hay Castle Books.

Around Hay-on-Wye
CLYRO 2 miles NW of Hay on the A438
A Clyro Castle A Parish Church of St Michael E Cwm Byddog

Sir Arthur Conan Doyle stayed at the Baskerville Arms and used the name for his best-known tale The Hound of the Baskervilles. A little way north of Clyro, Cwm Byddog is a 15-acre ancient woodland with pollarded oaks, bluebells in spring, the remains of a motte and bailey castle and a variety of birds, including the blackcap and the garden warbler.

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

PAINSCASTLE 5 miles NW of Hay on the B4594


A Castell Paen E Tawny Owl Animal Park and Craft Centre

This beautifully situated village in the Wye Valley was once a Roman station although little remains of that. But the remnants of the motte and bailey of Clyro Castle, built by the fiendish William de Braose, can still be seen. The diarist Francis Kilvert was curate in the village between 1865 and 1872 and in his journal he describes both life in the village and the surrounding area in evocative and elegant prose. He lived at Ashbrook House, which has been re-named and is now the Kilvert Art Gallery. The Parish Church of St Michael, where he was vicar, was founded in the 12th century. Apart from the tower, it was rebuilt in about 1853. Clyro has another minor literary connection.

Clyro Church, Clyro

Sometimes known as Castell Paen, the early castle here was built in 1130 by Payn FitzJohnon. A motte that still exists was later rebuilt in stone and, by the late 12th century, was in the hands of the notorious William de Braose. The cruelty of de Braose earned him a place in Welsh folklore and he was given the nickname the Ogre of Abergavenny. This was because he avenged the death of his uncle, the Earl of Hereford, by inviting several Welsh princes to Abergavenny Castle for a great feast. Instead of offering them hospitality, he had them all butchered. His name has also been given to several breeds of cattle in Wales, including the de Braose Maud and the de Braose David. In 1198, the castle was attacked by Gwenwynwyn, Prince of Powys, but the English army slaughtered more than 3000 of Gwenwynwyns men. The princes dreams of a united Wales died along with them. However, de Braose met his match for cruelty in King John, who stripped him of his land. He escaped in disguise to France, where he died. After her husbands death, Williams wife Maud suggested that

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John had also killed his nephew Prince Arthur and for this accusation both she and her youngest son were imprisoned in Corfe Castle with little food to keep them alive. Legend has it that when, some 11 days later, the dungeon door was opened, both prisoners were dead. In an attempt to keep herself alive, Maud had half eaten the cheeks of her son. Close to the castle remains is an altogether more pleasant place to visit, the Tawny Owl Animal Park and Craft Centre, which lies in the shelter of beautiful hills. Opened in 1998, the park is named after the wild owls that live in the broad-leafed woodlands surrounding the farm. As well as the owls (which are not caged), visitors can also see a whole range of farm animals at close quarters. Along with the animals and the farm trails, there are also traditional country crafts on display and for sale. The Parish Church of St Peter is a simple building with a 14th century nave and a 15th century chancel, though there is plenty of evidence of a substantial restoration in the 19th century. Curiously, the chancel floor is about three feet lower than that of the nave.

Builth Wells
A Parish Church of St Mary C Castle Mound C Cefn Carn Cafall H Wayside Arts Centre I Royal Welsh Show Ground D Groe Park

Another spa town of mid Wales, Builth Wells lies beside the River Wye, which is spanned at this point by a six-arched bridge. The discovery of saline springs in 1830 helped Builth Wells develop from a small market town into a fashionable spa that became even more popular with the arrival of the railways towards the end of the 19th century. As a result, many of the

towns original narrow streets are lined with Victorian and Edwardian buildings. However, the towns history dates back much further than just a couple of hundred years. It grew up around a Norman castle that changed hands many times during the struggles with the English. The inhabitants of Builth Wells earned the nickname traitors of Bu-allt because of their refusal to shelter Llywelyn the Last from the English in 1282. As a result, some 20 years later, Llywelyn partly destroyed the Norman stronghold. At the Castle Mound only the earthworks remain of the towns 13th-century castle that was built by Edward I on the site of the earlier motte and bailey structure. The earthworks can be reached by a footpath from the town centre. The Parish Church of St Mary was founded in Norman time, and has a 14thcentury tower, the rest being Victorian. Above the south porch is a small room. Since the 1963 opening of the Royal Welsh Show Ground at Llanelwedd, on the opposite bank of the Wye, the annual Royal Welsh Show, held in July, has gained a reputation as being the premier agricultural show in the country. Builth Wells is regarded as the centre for farming and agriculture in Wales and the show provides an opportunity for the farming communities to come together at what is considered to be one of the finest and most prestigious events of its kind. Although spa treatments are no longer available here, Builth Wells remains a popular touring centre and base. As well as the many shops and the weekly market on Mondays, visitors can also enjoy the wide variety of arts and cultural events held at the Wayside Arts Centre, take in a film at a cinema that claims to be the longest-running permanent cinema in Wales, or just take a pleasant riverside stroll

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

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through Groe Park. On the summit of the nearby mountain, Cefn Carn Cafall, is a cairn that is said to have been built by King Arthur. The stone on top of the cairn bears the imprint of a dogs paw that, according to local legend, was left by King Arthurs dog, Cafall, while they were out hunting. Arthur built the cairn, placing the stone on top, and then named the peak. The story continues that if the stone is removed it will always return to this spot.

Around Builth Wells


ERWOOD 7 miles SE of Builth Wells on the A470
H Erwood Station Craft Centre and Gallery

Builth, was killed by the English. According to legend, the place where Llywelyn fell and died was covered in broom, which then ceased to grow on the site - in mourning for the loss of the last native Prince of Wales. Thirteen trees have been planted here to represent the 13 counties of Wales. The rough hewn stone Memorial to Llywelyn the Last describes him as ein llyw olaf (our last leader) while the English tablet beside the monument calls him our prince. Following his death, Llywelyns head was taken to London and paraded victoriously through the citys streets. His death is still marked by a ceremony every year on 11 December at the memorial stone.

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

LLANWRTYD WELLS 13 miles W of Builth Wells on the A483


A Cambrian Woollen Mill D Llyn Brianne G William Williams I World Bog Snorkelling Championship

Pronounced Errod, the villages name is actually a corruption of the Welsh Y Rhyd (the ford), a name that harks back to the days when the shallow crossing of the River Wye here was used by drovers. The Great Western Railway station at Erwood, closed in 1962, has been turned into the Erwood Station Craft Centre and Gallery. The centre has daily woodturning demonstrations and each month stages a new exhibition featuring various craftspeople from weavers to painters, potters to sculptors. The centre has a caf, two of whose tables are in a GWR carriage.

Officially the smallest town in Great Britain, Llanwrtyd Wells also claims to enjoy the cleanest air in the country. It owes its fame as a spa town to the local vicar Theophilus Evans who, in 1732, was walking outside the town when he came across a sulphur spring. A sufferer from scurvy himself, he observed

CILMERY 3 miles W of Builth Wells on the A483


C Memorial to Llywelyn the Last

This village on the banks of the River Irfon has a special resonance for Welsh nationalists. It was here, in 1282, that Llywelyn the Last while fleeing after the abortive Battle of

Cambrian Woollen Mill, Llanwrtyd Wells

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healthy frogs swimming in the water, drank some of it over several days and was cured of the affliction. Surrounded by rugged mountains, rolling hills and the remote moorland of Mynydd Epynt, Llanwrtyd Wells no longer attracts visitors for its sulphurous waters but is still a popular holiday centre, particularly with those who enjoy bird watching, fishing, walking and an eclectic variety of events and festivals throughout the year. In January theres a Roman Saturnalia (dress code: togas), a Man versus Horse race in May, a Folk Weekend in spring and a late autumn Beer Festival the Real Ale Wobble. However the most unusual of all the events held here is undoubtedly the annual World Bog Snorkelling Championship that takes place each August. Competitors have to swim two lengths of a specially dug 180ft peat bog located a mile from the town. The swimmers head must be submerged, and the use of the arms is forbidden. The latest variation is bogsnorkelling on mountain bikes! In the 18th century, William Williams, the poet, hymn writer and one of the leaders of the Methodist revival, lived in the town while another claim to fame is that the Welsh rugby folk song, Sosban Fach, was written here in 1895. It translates into English as little saucepan. On the outskirts of the town, on the bank of the River Irfon, the Cambrian Woollen Mill recalls the rich history of Wales rural past. The first mill was founded in the 1820s, but its modern form dates from 1918 when it was opened by the Royal British Legion for the benefit of servicemen disabled in World War I. A tour of the mill allows visitors to see traditional cloths being woven while in the factory shop there is a wide choice of beautifully finished items to buy. Theres also a

gift shop, craft shop and studio, and a restaurant. On high ground to the northwest of the town is Llyn Brianne, the latest of Wales man-made lakes, which was opened in 1973. The dam that holds the water is the highest of its type in the country at 300 feet and the grand scale of the lake has to be seen to be believed.

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

LLANGAMMARCH WELLS 8 miles W of Builth Wells off the A483


G John Perry G Theophilus Evans

Situated where the Rivers Irfon and Cammarch meet, Llangammarch Wells was the smallest of the Welsh spas. It was renowned for its barium chloride carrying waters that were thought to be useful in the treatment of heart and rheumatic complaints. The old well and pumphouse are contained in the grounds of the Lake Country House Hotel. As well as being the birthplace in 1559 of John Perry, an influential religious reformer who was hanged in London in 1593 for treason, this now sleepy little town was also the home of the wonderfully named Theophilus Evans. He was vicar here, discovered the sulphur spring at Llanwrtyd Wells, which cured the scurvy he had suffered for years, and he also wrote a classical historical interpretation of the area entitled View of the Primitive Age.

ABERGWESYN 12 miles W of Builth Wells off the B4358


D Abergwesyn Pass

Situated in an isolated spot in the Irfon Valley, Abergwesyn lies on an old drovers route that twists and climbs through the Abergwesyn Pass. Known as the roof of Wales, this is a beautiful pathway that, centuries ago, consisted of nothing more than dirt tracks along which

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the city of Brecon sits on the banks of the River Usk, at the confluence of the Rivers Honddu and Tarrell in the heart of the Brecon Beacons National Park. A major shopping centre for the area, it hosts a livestock market every Tuesday and Friday, and a craft market on the third Saturday of every month. A walk along the promenade beside the River NEWBRIDGE ON WYE Usk leads to the remains of medieval Brecon 4 miles N of Builth Wells on the A470 Castle. They stand partly in the Bishops A Parish Church of All Saints H Drovers Statue Garden and partly in the grounds of the Castle The Parish Church of All Saints in this large Hotel. The town grew up around this castle, village at the foot of the Cambrian Mountains which was built in the late 11th century by was built in the decorated style in 1883 for the Bernard of Newmarch. It was besieged first by Llywelyn the Last and again during Owain Venables family of nearby Llysdinam. The Glyndwrs rebellion in the early 15th century. By famous diarist, the Rev Francis Kilvert was the time of the Civil War, Brecon considered its chaplain to the Rev Richard Venables who lived there. The Drovers Statue on the village growing cloth trade so important that it decided to remain neutral and the townsfolk began green is a reminder that the village lies on an old drove road that ran from Tregaron and on dismantling the castle. Close by stands Brecon Cathedral, an into England. Droving the driving of cattle, mainly to the English lowlands for fattening impressive and magnificent building that originated from an 11th century priory was one of Waless main industries until the Industrial Revolution. Drovers needed licenses colonised by Benedictine monks from Battle to ply their trade, and had to be married, over in Sussex. It was founded by the Norman knight Bernard of Newmarch who had been 30 and a householder. This didnt stop them granted the lands by his half brother William enjoying themselves in inns where they stopped overnight. Newbridge on Wye had 13 the Conquerer. In the late 1300s the priory was developed into a fortified building later inns and they usually put on dancing, singing, described as half Church of God and half boxing and wrestling to entertain the drovers. castle against the Welsh. Following the Dissolution of the Monasteries it became Brecons parish church, called the Priory Church of St John the Evangelist. It was A Brecon Castle B Heritage Centre eventually elevated to a cathedral in 1923 when A Brecon Cathedral the new diocese of Swansea and Brecon was C Captains Walk B Brecknock Museum created. At one time chapels dedicated to C Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal craftsmen filled the aisles, but only that to the corvisors (shoemakers) remains. An unusual B South Wales Borderers Museum C Y Gaer artefact in the nave of the cathedral is a Famous for its ancient cathedral, Georgian cresset stone, a slab of stone in which 30 architecture and annual Jazz Festival in August,

the drovers would shepherd cattle and other livestock from one market town to the next. A number of drovers routes can still be followed, some in part by car. Many of the roads are narrow. In the south, one such route begins at Llandovery and travels across the Epynt mountain and crosses the ford at Erwood.

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

Brecon

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

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Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

PILGRIMS Brecon Cathedral Close, Brecon, Powys LD3 9DP Tel: 01874 610610 e-mail: pilgrimstearooms@btconnect.com website: www.pilgrims-tearooms.co.uk
Pilgrims award winning tea rooms are situated in the tranquil walled Close of Brecon Cathedral. The tearooms retain much of the style of the adjacent sixteenth century tithe barn, which houses the Cathedral shop and Heritage Centre Museum (free entry). The tea rooms are run by Janet Williams who has gained an impressive reputation for Pilgrims by cooking delicious fresh meals daily, using local and organic produce whenever possible and serving it in a warm, friendly atmosphere. A main menu is available from 12- 2.30p.m. including a selection of home-made soups and bread, quiches, salads, sandwiches, jacket potatoes, casseroles, pies and mouth watering desserts. Traditional Sunday roasts are extremely popular and booking is advisable Pilgrims is fully licensed serving a selection of wines, local ales, cider and a range of hot and cold soft drinks. Pilgrims is open daily from 10 until 5pm throughout the year for morning coffee, lunch and afternoon tea, but closes a little earlier during the winter months. Janet also provides outside catering for families, bunkhouses and corporate functions. On Fridays and Saturdays extra bread, welsh cakes, nut-roasts and specialities are baked and can be ordered and collected from the tearooms.

cups, 3 inches deep and wide, have been hollowed out. These would be filled with tallow and a wick to provide lighting for the monks nocturnal services. Housed in a 16thcentury tithe barn is the cathedrals imaginative Heritage Centre. Some of the towns old walls survive. One section, known as Captains Walk, recalls the fact that Napoleonic soldiers were held prisoner here, with the officers being allowed to exercise along part of the walls. Found in another of the towns old buildings, the elegant and impressive former Old Shire Hall is the Brecknock Museum where visitors can see the old assize court, as well as take in the extensive collection of artefacts and other items from past centuries, including the museums large collection of Welsh love spoons. The towns second museum is equally

fascinating. The South Wales Borderers Museum features memorabilia of the regiments famous defence of Rorkes Drift. Over 300 years of military history are recorded here through various displays that include armoury, uniforms and medals. The regiment has taken part in every major campaign and war and has won 29 Victoria Crosses and over 100 Battle Honours. However, though its history is long and varied, it is the regiments participation in the Zulu wars that is best remembered. The regiments bravery was immortalised in the film Zulu starring Michael Caine. It recalls the heroic defence of Rorkes Drift in 1879, when 141 men from the regiment were attacked by 4000 Zulus. Nine VCs were awarded here in a single day. As well as having the River Usk flowing through the town, Brecon is also home to the

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

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Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal, a beautiful Welsh waterway that used to bring coal and limestone into the town. Work started on the canal in 1797, and a superb viaduct carries it across the River Usk just outside the town. Currently, some 37 miles of the canal has been restored and there are attractive walks along the canal towpath. Pleasure cruises on both motorised and horse-drawn barges are available and the canal basin in the town has been reconstructed and is now proving to be an attraction in its own right. The first evidence of a settlement in the area is the remains of the Roman fort Y Gaer, which lie two miles west of the town. First built in around AD75, the fort was rebuilt twice before it was finally abandoned in about AD290. A garrison for the 2nd Legion and the Vettonian Spanish cavalry, parts of the fort

were excavated by Sir Mortimer Wheeler in 1924, and sections of the outer wall in places 10 feet high and traces of gates can be seen. In the 5th century, the daughter of the local ruler was sent to Ireland to marry a local prince. They had a son, whom they named Brychan, and he was sent back to Wales to live with his grandfather. It is from him that the name of the town and the county is derived. Brychans daughter was Tudful and she eventually became a holy woman who was killed by Irish invaders in AD480. It is from her that the town of Merthyr Tydfil, 20 miles to the south, gets its name, merthyr being the Welsh for martyr. Well-known natives of Brecon include Dr Hugh Price, founder of Jesus College, Oxford, and the celebrated actress Sarah Siddons who was born in 1755 at

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

ALLTYBRAIN FARM COTTAGES Alltybrain Farm, Llandefaelog Fach, Nr Brecon, South Powys LD3 9RB Tel: 01874 690214 / 07725 106034 e-mail: rose@alltybrainfarm.co.uk website: www.alltybrainfarmcottages.co.uk
Situated four miles from the market town of Brecon, Alltybrain Farm Cottages offers five star self catering accommodation in a private and peaceful location. There are two cottages named Damson and Duck and each sleep two people. The adjacent hayloft with dormitory style bedroom sleeps up to four people. Guests can enjoy spectacular views of Pen y Fan and the Brecon Beacons National Park from every window. This idyllic rural retreat is located within the grounds of a smallholding with its own orchard, stream and resident ducks and chickens.

PWLLGLOYW ARMS Pwllgloyw, Nr Brecon, South Powys LD3 9PY Tel: 01874 690282
The Pwllgloyw Arms is set within a valley amongst beautiful countryside and is the only pub situated between the historic market towns of Builth Wells and Brecon. This welcoming family run pub offers a fantastic menu of home cooked dishes created using local produce where possible. Inside the cosy bar and lounge has comfortable sofas and the restaurant seats up to 30 people. Outside there is ample car parking and a garden area with tables and chairs positioned next to a picturesque stream. The en-suite bed and breakfast accommodation is comfortably furnished and each room is equipped with a television and tea and coffee making facilities.

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

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the Shoulder of Mutton Inn in the High Street. The inn has since been renamed the Sarah Siddons Inn and has a plaque commemorating the actress.

View from Pen y Fan, Libanus

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

Around Brecon
LLANFRYNACH 2 miles S of Brecon on the B4458
A Parish Church of St Brynach

Housed in an 18th century warehouse in this pretty village, the Water Folk Museum tells the story of life on the canal. Horse-drawn boat trips start from here, and sometimes a blacksmith can be seen at work. The Parish Church of St Brynach is Victorian, though it has a medieval tower. St Brynach was Irish and came to Wales in the 6th century to preach and spread Christianity. On arriving in what is now Pembrokeshire, he caught the eye of the daughter of a local chieftain. He resisted her advances and was then attacked and beaten for doing so.

LIBANUS 4 miles SW of Brecon on the A470


B National Park Visitor Centre C Twyn y Gaer D Corn Du D Pen y Fan C Bedd Illtyd D Brecon Beacons National Park

Major. The Brecon Beacons are a small part of the National Park and were given to the National Trust in 1965. This gift included the sandstone peaks of Pen y Fan (at 2906 feet, the highest point south of Snowdon) and Corn Du. This area has become one of the most popular parts of the UK with walkers. The area is also important for sub-alpine plants and is designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest. But the very popularity of the Beacons with walkers has caused great problems, exacerbated by military manoeuvres and the sheep that have grazed here since Tudor times. Erosion is the biggest problem and the National Trust has put in place an ambitious programme of footpath and erosion repair.

To the northwest of this attractive hamlet on Mynydd Illtyd common is the National Park Visitor Centre where visitors can find out about the Park from displays and presentations, and also enjoy refreshments in the tea rooms. There are some interesting remains to be seen in the area. Twyn y Gaer, a Bronze Age burial chamber, and Bedd Illtyd, a more modest ancient monument said to be the grave of St Illtyd, the founder of the monastery at Llantwit

YSTRADFELLTE 12 miles SW of Brecon off the A4059


A Parish Church of St Mary C Maen Madog D Fan Llia D Fan Nedd D Porth-yr-Ogof

This village is a recognised hiking centre and the area of classic limestone countryside around it is one of the most impressive in the British Isles. The Parish Church of St Mary is mainly 16th century, and has a font of the same date. The narrow road heading north from the village climbs sharply and squeezes its way

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along a narrow valley between the 2074-feet high Fan Llia on the east side, and the 2176feet high Fan Nedd on the west. The Maen Madog is a nine-foot high standing stone with a Latin inscription proclaiming that Dervacius, son of Justus, lies here. To the south of Ystradfellte is Porth-yrOgof, a delightful area with a collection of dramatic waterfalls as the River Mellte descends through woodland.

CRAIG-Y-NOS 15 miles SW of Brecon on the A4067


A Craig-y-Nos Castle B Dinosaur Park B MorganBros. Shire Horse Centre D Craig-y-Nos Country Park D National Showcaves Centre for Wales B Iron Age Farm

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

YSTRADGYNLAIS 18 miles SW of Brecon on the B4599


F Y Garn Goch

Situated at the top end of the Tawe Valley, which stretches down to the city of Swansea, and close to the boundary of the Brecon Beacons National Park, Ystradgynlais is a former mining community. Iron was produced here as far back as the early 17th century and the legacy of this industrious past can still be seen, although the area surrounding the village is known as waterfall country and is popular with walkers, ramblers and cavers. A local legend tells of three cauldrons, filled with gold, that are buried beneath Y Garn Goch the red cairn on the summit of Mynydd y Drum, to the east of the town. The story goes that one day a young girl will come to claim the treasure, which, until then, is protected by demons. To prevent anyone trying to take the gold, the legend also tells of a wizard and his apprentice who attempted to overcome the demons with their magic. While the elements raged, a spirit on a wheel of fire swept the apprentice out of the protective circle he had made and gave him a lighted candle, saying that as long as the candle burned his life would last. As soon as the candle was spent the apprentice died and the wizard, terrified, fled from the mountain.

The National Showcaves Centre for Wales is centred on the largest complex of caverns in northern Europe, and lies to the north of this village. Discovered by local farmers in 1912, the caverns have taken 315 million years to form and they include both the longest and the largest showcaves in Britain. The Cathedral Cave, as its name suggests, is like the interior of a great cathedral, and modern lighting and music accentuate the atmosphere. Near the entrance is a display on cave dwellers of the past. Dan-yr-Ogof has a series of lakes connected by passages, which you can explore as well. Within Bone Cave, 42 human skeletons have been discovered, many of them dating back over 3000 years to the Bronze Age. Deer bones more than 7000 years old have also been discovered. Exploring the underground caverns is only one aspect of this interesting attraction. There is also an award-winning Dinosaur Park, where life-size replicas of the creatures that roamed the earth during Jurassic times can be seen At the Morgan Bros. Shire Horse Centre, Twm the talking sheepdog takes visitors on a fascinating journey back in time to when Shire horses reigned supreme at Dan-yr-Ogof Farm. You can meet Dai the blacksmith and visit Tommy Morgan in his Victorian kitchen. The magnificent shire horses still pull farm wagons around and the other farm animals are never far away - Shetland ponies, donkeys, Welsh cobs, alpacas, cows, goats, pigs, ducks

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and geese are all to be seen. The replica Iron Age Farm gives a realistic idea of how the farmers lived in that era. To the east of the village lies Craig-y-Nos Country Park where visitors can enjoy the unspoilt countryside and the landscaped country parkland of the upper Tawe Valley. The mansion in the country park, known as Craig-y-Nos Castle, was once the home of the 19th-century opera singer Madame Adelina Patti. She bought the estate in 1878 as a home for herself and her second husband, the tenor Ernesto Nicolini. She installed an aviary, a little theatre modelled on Drury Lane, and a winter garden that was subsequently moved to Swanseas Victoria Park. Patti was born in Madrid in 1843, the daughter of a Sicilian tenor, and achieved fame in New York at an early age. Her first husband was the Marquis de Caux, her second Ernesto

Nicolini, and her third the Swedish Baron Cedarstrm, whom she married in the Roman Catholic church at Brecon in 1898. The castle is now a hotel.

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

SENNYBRIDGE 7 miles W of Brecon on the A40


A Castell Ddu B Disgwylfa Conservation Centre

Situated along the southern edge of the Mynydd Epynt and on the northern border of the Brecon Beacons National Park, this village is very much a product of the industrial age. It only began to develop after the railways arrived here in 1872, when it became a centre for livestock trading. However, the remains of Castell Ddu, just to the west of the village, provides evidence of life here from an earlier time. Dating from the 14th century, this was the home of Sir Reginald Aubrey, trusted friend of Bernard of Newmarch, a Norman

TRECASTLE ANTIQUES AND SALVAGE CENTRE Trecastle, Powys LD3 8UN Tel: 01874 638007 website: www.trecastleantiques.co.uk / www.kingdomofrust.co.uk / www.upcyclers.co.uk
On the main A40 trunk road at the edge of the stunning Brecon Beacons national park lies the village of Trecastle. During the 19th centuaryTrecastle was an important coaching stop and incorporated 16 shops,2 schools and held 8 annual fairs! Now one of the old schools has become home to Trecastle Antiques and Salvage Centre for the past 14 years. As 11 diverse antique and reclamation dealers from the locality,we aim to offer a wide range of wonderful,lovingly restored treasures. Our stock is fascinating and extensive,traditional through to recycled retro.Country and renovated furniture along with agricultural bygones,tools,salvage and gardenalia reflect our rural surroundings. If you are looking for inspiration for the home then pictures,rugs,kitchenalia,records,books and collectables are all here,alongside jewelry,vintage clothing,medals and much much more. A warm welcome to everyone 7 days a week including all bank holidays 10am-5pm.

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knight who was granted tracts of land in the area in the 11th-century, and who founded Brecon Priory. Two waymarked walks have been opened on the Sennybridge army training area, beginning at Disgwylfa Conservation Centre on the B4519. The centre has an interactive learning centre and military and conservation displays. One of the walks is accessible to disabled visitors.

Crickhowell
A Crickhowell Castle A Parish Church of St Edmund A Crickhowell Bridge C Crug Hywell E Pwll-y-Wrach Nature Reserve

Situated in the beautiful valley of the River Usk and with a backdrop of the Black Mountains that rise to the north, Crickhowell

is a charming little town with a long history. The town takes its name from the Iron Age fort, Crug Hywell (Howells Fort) that stands on the flat-topped hill above the town that is aptly named Table Mountain. The remains of another stronghold, Crickhowell Castle, can be found in the towns large park. This was once one of the most important fortresses in this mountainous region of Wales. Built in the 11th century, it is also known as Alisby Castle, after a Norman knight who once owned it. Only the motte and two shattered towers remain of the Norman fortress, which was stormed by Owain Glyndwr and abandoned in the 15th century. The most impressive structure in this thriving market town is the picturesque and famous Crickhowell Bridge, which dates from the 17th century and spans the River Usk in the heart of the town. Still carrying

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

THE COURTROOM CAFE High Street, Crickhowell NP8 1BD Tel: 01873 812497
Heart warming food from the heart of Crickhowell
The Courtroom Cafe offers delicious home-made hot meals, salads, snacks and cakes, all freshly prepared on the premises, using locally sourced ingredients combined with over 30 years of catering experience. The family ran cafe offers a wide menu full of wholesome and heart warming food, with everything available to take away, making it a favourite amongst the local community and a real treat for visitors to the picturesque market town of Crickhowell. Situated in the regal surroundings of first floor of the towns Victorian courtroom, it provides a unique outlook across the heart of the town for up to 40 diners. Both Child and disabled friendly and complete with wheelchair lift, you can relax and watch the world go by whether it be over a traditional breakfast, lunchtime meal or afternoon tea. Open 9am -5pm Mon Friday, 10am 4pm Sun Call 01873 812 497 if you wish to make a reservation

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traffic today, the bridge is unique in that it has 13 arches visible on one side and only 12 on the other! For the rest, this is a pleasant place to explore, with some fine Georgian architecture and an imposing parish church. St Edmunds was founded in the 12th century by Lady Sybil Pauncefote whose father, Sir Hugh Turberville, owned the castle. Effigies of Sybil and her husband, the wonderfully named Sir Grimbald, can be seen in the sanctuary. In the graveyard is buried Sir George Everest, the Surveyor-General in India after whom the worlds highest mountain was named. He was born in what is now the Manor Hotel in Crickhowell in 1790. Crickhowell is popular with those looking for outdoor activities such as walking because of its close proximity to the Black Mountains and the National Park. Close by is Pwll-yWrach Nature Reserve in a steep-sided valley. Owned by the Brecknock Wildlife Trust, this woodland reserve has a waterfall and also a great variety of flora, for which it has been designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest.
Crickhowell Castle

Around Crickhowell
TRETOWER 2 miles NW of Crickhowell on the A479
A Tretower Court and Gardens A Tretower Castle

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

This quiet village in the Usk Valley boasts two impressive medieval buildings Tretower Court and Gardens and Tretower Castle (both administered by CADW). The elder of these historic sites is the castle, though all that remains on the site of the original Norman motte is a stark keep that dates from the 13th century. The castle was built in this valley to discourage Welsh rebellion but, nevertheless, it was besieged by Llywelyn the Last and almost destroyed by Owain Glyndwr in 1403. Adjacent to the castle remains stands the Court, a magnificent fortified manor house with its origins in the 15th century. It served as a very desirable domestic residence for the Picard family right up until 1783 and many additions and alterations were made during those years. The 15th-century woodwork here and the wall walk, with its 17th-century roof and windows, are outstanding. The fact that the rooms are devoid of furnishings or works of art draws the eye instead to the details of the remarkable medieval craftsmanship of the architecture. The Courts gardens are particularly interesting. The original late 15thcentury layout of the gardens has been re-

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created in such a manner that the owner of the time, Sir Roger Vaughan, would still recognise them. Among the many delightful features here are a tunnel arbour planted with vines and white roses (Sir Roger was a Yorkist), an enclosed arbour and a chequerboard garden. They are all best seen in the early summer.

the navigators lying on their backs and walking along the walls. Further south lies the Talybont Reservoir, constructed in the 1930s. In this narrow wooded valley on the southeast slopes of the Brecons there are several forest trails starting from the car park at the far end of the reservoir.

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

TALYBONT-ON-USK 7 miles NW of Crickhowell on the B4558


D Talybont Reservoir

LLANGORS 8 miles NW of Crickhowell on the B4560


A Parish Church of St Paulinus D Llangors Lake I Llangorse Multi-Activity Centre

Strictly speaking this attractive village should be called Talybont-on-Caerfanell since it is that river that flows through it to join the Usk just to the south. Nearby, the Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal passes through the 375-yard long Ashford Tunnel. When it opened in 1800, boats were legged through the tunnel with

The Parish Church of St Paulinus dates from the 15th century, though there was much rebuilding in Victorian times. It may have been built on the site of a monastery that was founded in the 7th century and continued up until the 11th century. To the south of the village, which is sometimes spelled Llangorse,

WELSH VENISON CENTRE Beacons Farm Shop, Middlewood Farm, Bwlch, Nr Brecon LD3 7HQ Tel: 01874 730929 Fax: 01874 730556 e-mail: info@beaconfarmshop.co.uk website: www.welshvenisoncentre.co.uk and www.beaconfarmshop.co.uk
The Welsh Venison Centre can be found in the heart of the Brecon Beacons National Park near the village of Bwlch. Offering a large choice of locally produced meats and specialising in venison, the firm was established in 1985 and is owned and run by Andrew and Elaine Morgan. They are passionate about putting the customer first and superb animal husbandry alongside the highest standards of animal welfare is paramount. With decades of experience in farming, breeding and protecting deer, the Welsh Venison Centre produces premium quality venison for wholesale. New purpose built premises opened in 2006 and also house the Beacons Farm Shop selling lamb, beef, pork, specialist meats and sausages alongside vegetables, fresh milk, fruit juices and free range eggs. There is also an extensive delicatessen department and a range of gifts and items for the home including deer and sheepskin rugs. The centre is open from Monday to Saturday, including Bank Holidays, and it is just 40 minutes from Cardiff and the Severn Bridge. The Welsh Venison Centre visits many well known festivals around the country and they offer outside catering for events as well as a nationwide mail order service.

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their crime would be avenged, not on them, but on the ninth generation of their family. One night, years later, a great flood burst from the hills, drowning the surrounding land and its inhabitants. It is still said today that a city lies beneath the water.

Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

TALGARTH 10 miles N of Crickhowell on the A479


Sunset across Llyn Llangors Lake

A Parish Church of St Gwendoline A Bronllys Castle G Hywell Harris

lies the largest natural lake in South Wales Llangors Lake (Llyn Syfaddan). Around four miles in circumference and following its way round a low contour in the Brecon Beacons, the waters of this lake were, in medieval times, thought to have miraculous properties. Traces of a prehistoric lake village have been found here and in 1925 a 15ft long oak dug-out canoe dating from around AD800 was retrieved. It can be seen in the museum at Brecon. Today, the lake attracts numerous visitors looking to enjoy not only the setting, but also the wide variety of sporting and leisure activities, such as fishing, horse riding and sailing, that can be found here. To the east of the lake, the Langorse Multi-Activity Centre offers abseiling, potholing, log climbing, a high-level rope course and an indoor climbing centre. Naturally, the lake is associated with a legend and local stories suggest that the land beneath the lake once belonged to a cruel and greedy princess. Though her lover was poor, she agreed to marry him only if he brought her great riches. So the lover set out to accomplish his task and in so doing robbed and murdered a wealthy merchant, giving the riches to his princess. However, the merchants ghost returned to warn the happy couple that

Lying in the foothills of the Black Mountains, Talgarth is an attractive market town with narrow streets that boasts many historic associations as well as some fine architecture. The 15th-century Parish Church of St Gwendoline is the burial place of Hywell Harris (171473), an influential figure in the establishment of Welsh Methodism. Harris was also instrumental in establishing a religious community, The Connexion, which was organised on both religious and industrial lines. Although this is now a quiet and charming place, Talgarth once stood against the Norman drive into Wales. Some of the defensive structures can still be seen today the tower of the church and another 13th century tower that now houses the Tourist Information Centre - though it has also served time as a jail. On the outskirts of Talgarth stands Bronllys Castle (CADW), a well-preserved centuries old keep built by the Norman baron Bernard of Newmarch. Originally a motte and bailey castle, it was later replaced with a stone edifice. It is now a lone 80ft high tower standing on a steep mound. Currently, only the exterior may be viewed as the interior is deemed unsafe.

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Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

HALL FARM BARN Hall Farm, Llangenny, Crickhowell, Powys NP8 1ET Tel: 01873 811200 e-mail: jane@the-hall-farm-barn.eclipse.co.uk website: www.hall-farm-barn.co.uk
Nestled in the glorious, stunning countryside of the Brecon Beacons National Park is a luxury home from home. Hall Barn Farm is a converted mountain stone barn, offering a serene location for those wishing to escape the busyness of everyday life on a self catering basis. Previously used by the family farm as sheep pens, the barn has been skillfully restored, retaining structure and features, awarding the barn a five star grading from the Welsh Tourist Board. The barn has oak flooring running throughout, and is furnished to a high standard with unique bits and bobs aquired through the family. The kitchen is modern and is well equipped with all the much needed necessities. The living room features original beams, wood burner, large comfy sofas, TV and DVD player. The cottage sleeps a maximum of 5 people in 3 charming bedrooms each with built in wardrobes, and there is one large family bathroom with shower and washroom located downstairs. The games room (situated across the courtyard to the outbuilding) offers the perfect place to have fun with friends and includes a 3/4 size snooker table and an eight-in-one games table for table tennis, skittles, air hockey, table tennis, cheques, billiards and more.

LLANGYNIDR 4 miles W of Crickhowell on the B4558


C Chartists Cave

To the south of this riverside village, on the open moorland of Mynydd Llangynidr, is the Chartists Cave where members of the movement stored ammunition during their active years in the mid-19th century.

LLANGATTOCK 1 mile SW of Crickhowell off the A4077


A Parish Church of St Catwg E Craig-y-Cilau Nature Reserve

The Parish Church of St Catwg, which was founded sometime during the early 6th

century, is dedicated to one of Wales most honoured saints. Born in around AD497, by the end of his life, in around AD577, he had become a bishop and taken the name Sophias. The churchs large tower is from the 16th century while the rest of the building dates from the 14th century and later. It was restored in Victorian times, but most of the medieval features can still be seen. To the southwest of the village, towards the boundary of the Brecon Beacons National Park, lies the Craig-y-Cilau Nature Reserve. With more than 250 plant species and over 50 kinds of birds breeding within the area, this is one of the richest reserves in the National Park.

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

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Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

IMAGE COPYRIGHT HOLDERS


Some images in this publicationhave been supplied by http://www.geograph.org.uk and licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic License. To view a copy of this license, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/ or send a letter to Creative Commons, 171 Second Street, Suite 300, San Francisco, California, 94105, USA.

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Cwmhir Abbey, Abbey-Cwm-Hir Clock Tower, Hay-on-Wye Clyro Church, Clyro Eirian Evans pg 6 pg 15 pg 19 pg 21 View from Pen y Fan, Libanus Crickhowell Castle, Crickhowell Llyn Llangors Lake, Llangors Paul Keith Salvesen Duncan Hawley pg 26 pg 30 pg 32

Stephen McKay

Andy Dolman

Cambrian Woollen Mills, Llanwrtyd Wells Martin Loader

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

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Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

TOWNS, VILLAGES AND PLACES OF INTEREST

A
Abbey-cwm-Hir 6
Cwmhir Abbey 6 The Hall at Abbey-Cwm-Hir 6

Pwll-y-Wrach Nature Reserve 30 St Edmunds 30

E
Elan Village 7
Caben Coch 7 Elan Valley 7

Abergwesyn 22
Abergwesyn Pass 22

B
Bleddfa 10 Brecon 23
Brecknock Museum 24 Brecon Castle 23 Brecon Cathedral 23 Captains Walk 24 Heritage Centre 24 Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal 25 South Wales Borderers Museum 24 Y Gaer 25

Erwood 21
Erwood Station Craft Centre and Gallery 21

H
Hay-on-Wye 13
Butter Market 17 Cheese Market 17 Clock Tower 17 Festival of Literature and the Arts 15 Hay Castle 17 Hay Motte 17 Hay-on-Wye Craft Centre 17

Builth Wells 20
Castle Mound 20 Cefn Carn Cafall 21 Groe Park 21 Parish Church of St Mary 20 Royal Welsh Show Ground 20 Wayside Arts Centre 20

K
Knighton 8
Glyndwrs Way 9 Kinsley Wood 10 Offas Dyke Centre 9 Pinners Hole 10 Spaceguard Centre 9

C
Cilmery 21
Memorial to Llywelyn the Last 21

L
Libanus 26
Bedd Illtyd 26 Corn Du 26 National Park Visitor Centre 26 Pen y Fan 26 Twyn y Gaer 26

Clyro 19
Clyro Castle 19 Cwm Byddog 19 Parish Church of St Michael 19

Craig-y-nos 27
Craig-y-Nos Castle 28 Craig-y-Nos Country Park 28 Dinosaur Park 27 Iron Age Farm 28 Morgan Bros. Shire Horse Centre 27 National Showcaves Centre for Wales 27

Llandrindod Wells 4
Abercamlo Bog 5 Bailey Einion 5 Castell Collen 5 Heart of Wales Line 5 National Cycle Collection 5 Old Parish Church of Llandrindod 5 Parish Church of the Holy Trinity 5 Radnor Forest 5 Radnorshire Museum 5 Rock Park 5 Victorian Festival 5

Crickhowell 29
Crickhowell Bridge 29 Crickhowell Castle 29 Crug Hywell 29

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

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Guide to Rural Wales SOUTH POWYS AND THE BRECON BEACONS

TOWNS, VILLAGES AND PLACES OF INTEREST


Llanfrynach 26
Parish Church of St Brynach 26 Water Folk Museum 26

R
Rhayader 6
Gigrin Farm 7 Rebecca Riots 6 Rhayader Castle 6 Welsh Royal Crystal 7 Wye Valley Walk 7

Llangammarch Wells 22
John Perry 22 Theophilus Evans 22

Llangattock 33
Craig-y-Cilau Nature Reserve 33 Parish Church of St Catwg 33

S
Sennybridge 28
Castell Ddu 28 Disgwylfa Conservation Centre 29

Llangors 31
Langorse Multi-Activity Centre 32 Llangors Lake 32 Parish Church of St Paulinus 31

St Harmon 7
Gilfach Farm Nature Reserve 8 Parish Church of St Harmon 7

Llangynidr 33
Chartists Cave 33

Llanwrtyd Wells 21
Cambrian Woollen Mill 22 Llyn Brianne 22 William Williams 22 World Bog Snorkelling Championship 22

T
Talgarth 32
Bronllys Castle 32 Hywell Harris 32 Parish Church of St Gwendoline 32

N
New Radnor 12
New Radnor Castle 12 Parish Church of St Mary 12

Talybont-on-Usk 31
Talybont Reservoir 31

Tretower 30
Tretower Court and Gardens and Tretower Castle 30

Newbridge on Wye 23
Drovers Statue 23 Parish Church of All Saints 23

Y
Ystradfellte 26
Fan Llia 27 Fan Nedd 27 Maen Madog 27 Parish Church of St Mary 26 Porth-yr-Ogof 27

O
Old Radnor 12
Parish Church of St Stephen 12

P
Painscastle 19
Castell Paen 19 Parish Church of St Peter 20 Tawny Owl Animal Park and Craft Centre 20

Ystradgynlais 27
Y Garn Goch 27

Presteigne 10
Dukes Arms 11 Judges Lodging 12 Mary Morgan 12 Parish Church of St Andrew 12 The Radnorshire Arms 11

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

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