Motor Zongshen ZS156FMI-2A

Chapter 1 – General information / Technical specifications
GENERAL SAFETY AND 1–1 FUEL FEED SYSTEM 1 – 23

MAINTENANCE RULES
MODEL IDENTIFICATION 1–3 STEERING STEM 1 – 25
GENERAL INFORMATION 1–4 FRONT SUSPENSION 1 – 26
MOTORCYCLE DIMENSIONS 1–5 REAR SUSPENSION 1 – 34
ENGINE 1–6 WHEELS AND TYRES 1 – 36
CLUTCH 1 – 14 BRAKE SYSTEM 1 – 40
BEARINGS, SEALS, WASHERS 1 – 18 ELECTRIC SYSTEM 1 – 43

AND ENGINE BOLTS
ALTERNATOR 1 – 20 TIGHTENING TORQUES 1 – 47
STARTER MOTOR 1 – 21 LUBRICATION POINTS AND 1 – 53

SEALING
- Clean quickly spilled fuel;

GENERAL SAFETY AND - If the fuel is swallowed or contact with eyes,
MAINTENANCE RULES seek medical attention immediately;
- Keep children and pets at a distance.
Carbon monoxide
! DANGER !
If the engine has to work to carry out any
Gasoline is extremely flammable and
operation, make sure the space is ventilated.
explosive under certain conditions. KEEP IT
Do not operate the engine in an closed space.
AWAY FROM CHILDREN.
! DANGER !
The exhaust gas gives off carbon monoxide, a Components with high temperatures
toxic gas which may lead to poisoning and can
! DANGER !
cause death.
The engine and exhaust system are hot when
the engine is running and maintains this high
Run the engine preferably outdoors. If not temperature sometime after the engine stops.
possible, do it in a space with a ventilation Use insulated gloves or wait for the engine to
system connected to the exhaust system. cool before handling the engine or exhaust
system.
Fuel
Fuel is highly flammable and poisonous. Engine oil used
Extreme caution should be used when
Follow the laws in force in your country for
handling fuel.
- Do not fill the motorcycle next to flames or collecting and treatment of waste oil. Never
lighted cigarettes; dump used oil into the sewer or ground.
- Always stop the engine before refueling; The oil is extremely toxic and contaminates
water and soils.
- Be careful not to spill fuel to the engine or
exhaust pipe while the engine is hot;
Service Manual AJP PR3/PR4 1-1
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

! DANGER ! To avoid risk of explosion, open the valve

The engine oil may cause skin cancer if left in mechanism and release nitrogen. The
contact with the skin repeatedly for a long remaining oil should be treated according to
period of time. Usually it is not necessary to the environmental legislation.
handle used oil every day, but it is Before you discard a damper, open the valve
recommended that wash hands thoroughly mechanism and release the nitrogen.
with soap and water after handling used motor
oil. KEEP USED OIL AWAY OF CHILDREN . MAINTENANCE RULES
Brake dust 1. Use only components and lubricants

approved by AJP, or their equivalents.
Never use compressed air or a dry brush to Components that do not meet the
clean the brakes. requirements of AJP can damage the
motorcycle.
! DANGER !
2. Use only metric tools to perform
Asbestos fibers, if inhaled, can cause
maintenance on the motorcycle. The
respiratory diseases or cancer.
incorrect use of tools or attachments could
damage the motorcycle.
Brake fluid
3. Always use O-rings, seals and gaskets for
Follow the guidelines of your country for new assembly.
collecting and treatment of waste fluid. Never
dump into the sewer or ground. 4. When any part or component is attached
with several bolts (e.g. engine covers,
! WARNING ! cylinder head, brake discs. sprocket, etc.)
begin tightening the inner screw largest
If the brake fluid is spilled on painted, plastic
diameter, followed by pressing the opposite
or rubber parts can damage them. If a spill
diagonal, cross or X, gradually increasing
occurs, immediately flush with water. Put a
the torque to the specified value.
cover on top of these painted pieces to protect
them when handling the brake circuit. KEEP 5. Clean the inside of the components with a
THE BRAKE FLUID AWAY OF CHILDREN. solvent after disassembly for inspection
and lubricate the friction surfaces before
Compressed nitrogen proceeding to its assembly.
Regarding to shock absorbers with gas 6. After installation, check that all parts are
reservoir: installed correctly and working.
! DANGER !
 Use only nitrogen to compression of the
shock absorbers. Using an unstable gas
may cause a fire or an explosion that can
lead to serious injury;
 The shock absorbers containing nitrogen
under high pressure. Should never be near
a flame or heat source, since there are
explosion hazards that can lead to serious
injury;
 Charging a damper with nitrogen carries a
risk of explosion which can lead to serious
injury if the damper is incorrectly heated or
bored.

MODEL IDENTIFICATION Approval plate

The approval plate (1) is placed in front of the
SERIAL NUMBER LOCATION
frame on the left side. It has marked the
The serial number of the frame and / or approval number, the serial number of the
engine are used for motorcycle registration. frame and the sound level at a specified
They are also used to help your dealer when rotation.
ordering parts or require any special
maintenance information.
Frame number
The frame number is stamped on the right
side of the steering stem tube (1).
TABULATED INFORMATION
In the following tables are information on
technical data and specifications of the bikes
AJP PR3 and PR4.
As additional help, may also be included some
specifications for the previous models /
versions PR3 / PR4.
Motor number
The engine number (1) is marked on the left ! WARNING !
side of the motor under gear lever. Throughout this chapter it is necessary to
pay attention that some components may
have more than one specification. If you
have doubts to identify which is the right
specification of your motorcycle, please
contact AJP MOTOS.
! WARNING !
All dimensions listed in the following tables
are in millimeters (mm) unless otherwise
specified.

GENERAL INFORMATION
Specification
Element / Item Engine
125cc 200cc 240cc
Engine (Type) 4 stroke; petrol; 1 cylinder; 2 valves.
Displacement 124cc 198cc 233cc
9,3Kw (12,6Cv) at 13,2Kw (18Cv) at 14,7Kw (20Cv) at
Power 8.500rpm 8.000rpm 8.000rpm
Torque 8,5N.m/8.000rpm 15,5N.m/7.000rpm 18N.m/7.000rpm
Bore and Stroke 56,6x49,5mm 69x53mm 69x62,5mm
Compression ratio 9,0:1 9,2:1 9,4:1
2 2 2
Compression in the cylinder 12,0Kg/cm 13,0Kg/cm 14,5Kg/cm
Valve mechanism 2 Valves, 1 camshaft driven by chain with rocker arm
Valve clearance 0,05 (intake); 0,08 (exhaust)
Opens at 5o BTDC
Intake valve o
Closes at 30 ABDC
Opens at 35o BBDC
Exhaust valve Closes at 5o ATDC
Ignition Electronics by CDI
Initial advance of the spark angle 10o BTDC (2.000 +/- 100rpm)
Full advance of spark angle 30o BTDC (4.000 +/- 100rpm)

Spark plug (standard) LG D8TC
Spark plug (equivalents) CHAMPION A8YC / NGK DR8ES / DPR8EA-9
Gap between the electrodes 0,6 - 0,7mm
Gear box 5-speed

Clutch 5 Discs/5 springs 5 Discs/4 springs 7 Discs/6 springs
Start Electric / Pedal
CDI unit MD125 – 3B
Ignition coil MGO3A // MGE30
Spark plug cap (equivalents) NGK LB05F / VD05F / YB05F
Alternator 12V monophasic (ACG)
Magnetic flywheel CFW type
Alternator power 12V 120W (0,12Kw / 5.000rpm)
Stator 8-Pole (12V8C)
Rectifier / current regulator MT12V8 – ZO5B (XFT1QO7)
Rectifier type Monophasic / half wave
Starter motor MQ1351-CB 350W

Fuel supply Carburetor

Fuel pump By vacuum (Paiolli)
Fuel tank 6,5 Liters
Lubrication Forced by trochoidal pump
Capacity / debit oil pump > 5,6 Liters/min. at 4.500rpm
Flow suction oil pump 0,3 MPa > 5,2 L/min.
Maximum temperature of the engine o
90 C (194ºF)
oil
Maximum oil consumption 8gr/100Km
The engine oil capacity 1,1 Liters 1,2 Liters 1,2 Liters
Recommended oil type Eni/Agip i-Ride Moto SAE 20W-50 (API-SG JASO MA,MA2)
Main oil filter Reusable; metal mesh, thimble type
Engine oil replacement The first change should occur at 500Kms. Then every 2000Kms
Cooling Air Air and oil Air and oil
Oil cooler (motor 200/240) GR 125
MOTORCYCLE DIMENSIONS
PR4 (2001 – 2007)
Element PR4-EN/TR PR4-SM PR4-SM-M

Wheelbase 1410 1320
Seat height 920 910 905
Fuel tank capacity 9 Liters
Weight (dry) 99Kg 99Kg 95Kg
PR3
Element MX MX/PRO EN SM TR
Wheelbase 1320 1310
104Kg
Weight (with fuel) (240cm3) 107Kg 104Kg (108Kg)
(108Kg)
PR4 (2007 – …)
Element EN/TR SM EXTREME

Wheelbase 1380
3
Weight (with fuel) (240cm ) 112Kg (113Kg) (119Kg)

ENGINE
LUBRICATION SYSTEM
Element Item Specification Service

limit
Lubrication Forced by trochoidal oil pump Z39 Z37 -
Engine 125cc 200/240cc
Replace
Oil capacity Change / Replace 1 Liter 1,1Liters every 2000km
When disassembling the engine 1,1 Liters 1,2 Liters
Brand ENI-AGIP
Recommended
engine oil Classification API: SF ou SG
Type
Viscosity: SAE 20W-50
Oil filter Grid, “thimble” type Reusable
Rotor on the 125/200cc Ø68mm
Centrifugal filter
crankshaft 240cc Ø58mm
Checking the Display on the right engine cover -
oil level
Z39 (nylon)
125 (1stversion)
Mandate drive Z37 (nylon) -
gear 200
240 Z37 (steel, with cover)
Outside 8 teeth
125 23x13mm
Inside 7 teeth
Pump rotors -
5 teeth
Outside
200/240 23x13mm
Inside 4 teeth
Oil pump Clearance in the tip 0,15 0,20

Clearance in the body 0,15 – 0,21 0,35
Clearance in the end 0,03 – 0,12 0,15
Aligned with mark on the
Ledge of the rotors cover -
body of the pump
Screws in the rotors cover M4x10 -
Tightening of the cap screws 3N.m (0,3Kgf.m) -
Pump chain sprocket cover bolts M5x20 -
(engine 240)
Tightening of the screws on the 5N.m (0,5Kgf.m) -
cover
The pump mounting bolts M6x30 -

Tightening of the screws fixing the

12N.m (1,2Kgf.m) -
oil pump
O-ring seals the pump on the
2 O-rings 9,4x2,4mm -
engine crankcase
Radiator type (GR 125) Aluminum -
Honeycomb radiator dimensions 155x70mm -
Thread M12x1,5 -
Oil cooler (On Racord screws Banjos on the M12x1,5 -
200/240cm3 radiator
Tightening of the screws M12 29N.m (3,0Kgf.m) -
engines)
racord
Sealing rings 12,3x20x16 -
Spacer 10mm -
Radiator fixing screws M6x30 w/ tab -
Bolt 10mm (or 8mm)
tightens on the engine -
Short pipe (output) crankcase
Bolt 12mm tightens down on -
oil cooler
Screw M10 (or M8x1)

-
Oil pipes tightens on the clutch cover
Long pipe (input)
Bolt 12mm tightens on top -
of the oil cooler
Sealing washers 8mm 8,2x14,5x1,5 -
Sealing washers 10mm 10,2x16x1,2 -
Sealing washers 12mm 12,3x20x16 -
CYLINDER HEAD / VALVES / VALVE MECHANISM

Service
Element Item Specification
limit
125cc engine 13,0 kgf/cm2 –
Compression in the cylinder
200cc engine
13,2Kgf/cm2 –
240cc engine
Warpage of the cylinder head – 0,1mm
Cylinder head 125 82,65mm –
Cylinder head height
200/240 81mm –
Gasket thickness of the cylinder head 1,3 - 1,5mm –
125 58mm –
I.D. Hole of the cylinder
150 63mm –
head gasket
200/240 70mm –

O-ring on the cap guide (125cc) 10x1,6mm –

Retainer on the oil hole (125cc) Rubber –
Intake valve hole cover on the 240cc engine Lowered 3mm –
Stud on the exhaust 125/150 M8x35 –
manifold 200/240 M8x30 –
IN 0,05mm
Valve clearances –
EX 0,08mm
IN 5,450 – 5,465 5,42mm
Valve stem outside diameter
EX 5,430 – 5,445 5,40mm
Valve stem inside diameter IN/EX 5,475 – 5,485 5,50mm
IN 0,010 – 0,035 0,08mm
Clearance on the tab - stem
EX 0,030 – 0,055 0,10mm
Mark on the valves “DC” –
125 30mm
IN 200 31,5mm
240 34mm
Valves and Ø Valves hat –
valve guides 125 25mm
EX 200 26mm
240 28,5mm
IN (125) 91mm –
EX (125) 90,3mm –
Total height of the valves
IN (200/240) 91,5mm –
EX (200/240) 90,7mm –
Valve seat width IN/EX 1,1 – 1,3mm 1,5mm
Groove height of the 125/150 3mm –
retaining loops 200/240 5mm –
125/150 Up -
Retaining loops position
200/240 Down -
Inside 39x17,5x12,5mm 39,3mm
Length (size) IN/EX
Outside 44,5x26,5x19mm 43,7mm
Valve springs
Inside 18x12,6x0,5mm
Base washers valve springs –
Outside 26x19x1mm
Rocker arm inside diameter 12,000 – 12,018 12,1mm
Came rocker arm outsider 11,966 – 11,984 11,93mm
diameter
Rocker arms Clearance IN/EX 0,016 – 0,052mm 0,084mm
Adjuster thread lead M6x0,75 –
Adjuster nut torque 14N.m (1,4Kgf.m) –

125/150 IN/EX Passing fillister –

Ø12x64mm
Rock hammer IN Low fillister –
shafts of the 200/240 EX Deep fillister Ø12x65,3mm –
valves
Lubrication holes IN/EX Ø3mm –
IN 31,58mm 30,6
Height of cams 125/200/240
EX 31,40mm 30,2
Warpage - 31,452 – 31,532 +- 0,1
Camshaft Outside diameter of the Right 20,00mm –
supports Left 16,60mm –
Support on the left side Bearing 6203 –
Support on the right side Bushing (20x28x11) –
125 4x98 Links
Timing chain 200 7x100 Links –
240 7x102 Links
125 Z34
Sprocket –
200 / 240 Z34
Valve mechanism pinion Z17 –
Tooth aligned with
Mounting position of the pinion on the crankshaft the keyway
–
125 M6x10
Sprocket fixing screws –
200 / 240 M6x12
Valve
mechanism 125 Short (175mm) –
Valve mechanism guide-
200 Medium –
chain tensioner
240 Long –
Timing chain tensioner 125/200/240 Ref. 547 –
Unlocking the tensor Rotate right –
Screws torque 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m) –
Pivot screw of the tensor guide 10N.m (1,0Kgf.m) –
Screw in the protection of the timing chain in the
10N.m (1,0Kgf.m) –
crankshaft
Tensioner bolts 10N.m (1,0Kgf.m) –
Tensioner cover 5N.m (0,5Kgf.m) –

CYLINDER AND PISTON

Service
limit
125 56,50 – 56,51 mm 56,60 mm
Inside diameter
200/240 69,00 – 69,01 mm 69,10 mm
Inclination 15º –
Roundness – 0,05 mm
Warpage – 0,05 mm
Cylinder
125 68,0mm -
Cylinder height (between the 150 68,5mm -
lower face and upper surface) 200 70,2mm -
240 77,2mm -
Cylinder gasket thickness 0,50mm -
Marking "IN"
Direction of the piston mark pointing to the –
intake
125 56,470 – 56,490 56,40 mm
150 (kit) 60,970 – 60,990 60,80mm
Outer diameter of the piston 68,970 – 68,990
mm (10 mm from
200/240 68,80 mm
the bottom of the
skirt)
Clearance cylinder / piston 0,010 – 0,040 0,20 mm
125 Ø15x10x48 -
Piston pin 150 (kit) Ø15x10x50 -
200/240 Ø17x12x55mm -
Piston and 125 15,002 – 15,008 15,04mm
segments Inside diameter of the pin hole
200/240 17,002 – 17,008 17,04mm
125 14,994 – 15,000 14,96 mm
Outer diameter of the pin came
200/240 17,994 – 17,000 16,96 mm
Clearance piston hole / pin came 0,002 – 0,014 0,02 mm
Clearance rod hole / pin 0,010 – 0,034 0,10 mm
125/150 1,0mm -
Segment width 200 1,0mm -
240 1,2mm -
Clearance of the segments in the Top 0,025 – 0,060 0,09 mm
piston channel Secondary 0,015 – 0,050 0,08 mm
Clearance at the end of the Top 0,20 – 0,35 0,5 mm
segments Secondary 0,35 – 0,50 0,65 mm
Service Manual AJP PR3/PR4 1 - 10

Oil (rail side) 0,20 – 0,70 0,9 mm

Grey (DY) Up -
Mounting position of the Black (D) Down -
segments in the piston
Oil Facing the exhaust -
Gap between the ends of the cylinder segments 120º -
CRANKSHAFT
Element Specification Service

limit
125 49,5mm –
Crankshaft stroke 200 53,0mm –
240 62,5mm –
Crankshaft mounting dimension 55mm –
Diameter of the right crankshaft body (125) 111mm –
Diameter of the left crankshaft body (125) 103mm –
Diameter of the crankshaft body (engine 200/240) 111mm –
Shaft diameter left / wheel side 20mm / 22mm –
Total length of the crankshaft 210mm –
Threaded on the right side M16x1 –
Threaded on the left for the flywheel (1st version) M8x1,25 or M10x1 –
Connecting rod radial clearance 0,000 – 0,008 0,05mm
Connecting rod lateral clearance 0,05 – 0,30 0,80mm
Connecting rod lateral clearance on the crankshaft – 0,60mm
Backhand Stroke of the crankshaft – 0,03mm
Pin size rod / crankshaft 30x54mm –
Bearing of the connecting rod foot side 30x38x18mm –
125 Connecting rod
Distance between holes 103,5mm 103,66mm
I.D. Hole of the connecting rod bottom side 38mm 38,08mm
I.D. Hole of the connecting rod top side 15mm 15,08mm
Width of the connecting rod 18mm -
Pin in the connecting rod / crankshaft 30x54mm -
Bearing of the connecting rod bottom 30x38x18mm -
200 Connecting rod
Distance between holes 103,5mm 103,66mm


Pin in the connecting rod / crankshaft Ø30x54mm -
Bearing of the connecting rod foot 30x38x18mm -
Dimensions of the rollers Ø4x14,7mm -
240 Connecting rod
Distance between holes 105mm 105,16mm
Pin in the connecting rod / crankshaft Ø32x54mm -
Bearing of the connecting rod foot 32x41x18 -
Dimensions of the rollers Ø4,5x14,7mm -
GEAR BOX
Service
Element Specification
limit
Gear box ratio
Primary transmission By gears -
Primary reduction Z73/Z18 (4,055) -
1st (secondary/primary) Z36/Z13 (2,769) -
nd
2 Z32/Z17 (1,882) -
125 Engine rd
3 Z28/Z20 (1,400) -
th
4 Z26/Z23 (1,130) -
th
5 Z24/Z25 (0,960) -
nd
2 Z32/Z17 (1,882) -
200 Engine rd
3 Z28/Z20 (1,400) -
th
4 Z26/Z23 (1,130) -
th
5 Z24/Z25 (0,960) -
nd
2 Z28/Z15 (1,866) -
240 Engine rd
3 Z25/Z18 (1,388) -
th
4 Z23/Z20 (1,150) -
th
5 Z21/Z22 (0,954) -

Final transmission By chain -

Drive sprocket (standard) 1Z5 -
Drive sprocket (optional) Z14 / Z16 / Z17 -
Drive sprocket PR4-Brazil / Extreme 520 – Z12 -
Sprocket PR3 Z46 -
Sprocket PR4 Z48/Z50 -
Z46 (Aluminum 7075 – 46) step
Sprocket PR4-Brazil / Extreme 520
-
Chain PR3 428H – 124 Links -

Chain PR4 428H - 132 Links -
Chain PR4-Brazil / Extreme Step 520 -
Dimensions
M5 (Z25 / Z22) 23,020 – 23,041 -
C1 (Z36 / Z32) 19,520 – 19,541 -
C2 – 125/200 (Z32) 23,020 – 23,041 -
Gears inside diameter C2 – 240 (Z28) 22,020 – 22,041 -
(125_200/240)
C3 (Z28 / Z23) 22,020 – 22,041 -
C4 (Z26 / Z21) 20,020 – 20,041 -
C5 (Z24 / Z21) 20,020 – 20,041 -
I.D. 16,516 – 16,534 -
C1 (16,5x19,5x7,3)
O.D. 19,479 – 19,500 -
Bushings in the C2 (22x25x10) not I.D. 22,000 – 22,021 -
secondary existing in 240
gears engine O.D. 24,979 – 25,000 -
Starter sprocket
O.D. 19,959 – 19,980 -
(16,5x20x7,8)
M5 (Z13 / Z11) 19,959 – 19,980 -
Outer diameter primary
shaft Outer sleeve guide
19,959 – 19,980 -
clutch
Starter sprocket (Z29) 14,966 – 14,984 -
C1 17,966 – 17,984 -
C2, C4 21,959 – 21,980 -
Outer diameter
secondary shaft C1 0,020 – 0,062 -
C2 0,020 – 0,062 -
C3 0,020 – 0,062 -
Pinion-shaft clearance M5, C4 0,020 – 0,062 -
C1 0,016 – 0,052 -
Bushing-shaft clearance C2 (125/200) 0,020 – 0,062 -
Startup wheel (Z29) 14,966 – 14,984 -

Gear shift drum

O.D. on the drum in support of the position on the
12.975 – 12.990 -
left crankcase
O.D. on the drum in support of the position on the
19,959 – 19,980 -
right crankcase
Distance between lateral supports 82,00 mm -
Total length of the drum 106,8 mm -
Width of the drum channels 7,25 mm -
Forks, came forks, gearshift linkage
I.D. hole 12,000 – 12,021 12,05mm
Right
Forks Thickness of
Left 4,93 – 5,00 4,70mm
the fork
Center
Thickness of the forks claw on the gears 5,3mm -
Forks pin diameter on the drum 7mm -
Forks shaft Ø12x110,5mm -
O.D. fork shaft 11,966 – 11,984 11,90
O.D. shaft gearshift linkage 14 -
CLUTCH
FOUR CLUTCH SPRINGS (ENGINES 125/200Cm3)
Item Specifications Service limit

3
ZS156FMI-2A (125Cm )
Engines equipped with four clutch springs -
/ ZS169YML (200Cm 3)
Number of clutch plates (coated) 5 -
Thickness of the coated discs 3,0mm 2,85mm
Inside diameter of the coated discs 91mm -
Outer diameter of the coated discs 109,5mm 110mm
The ridges outer diameter of the coated discs 118,5mm -
Number of exterior ridges 8 -
Width of the ridges in the coated discs 16mm -
Width of the cutouts in the clutch basket 16,2mm 16,5mm
Number of separator discs (plate) 4 -
Disc plate thickness 1,6mm 1,5mm
Maximum permissible warping in the separators discs - 0,2mm
Outer diameter of the plate discs 110mm -
Larger inner diameter of the plate discs 90mm -
Smaller inner diameter of the plate discs 82mm -

Number of teeth in the separators discs 25 -

Width of teeth on drive plate 5,6mm -
Cut width in the plate disc 6,3mm -
Thickness of the coated discs 5 + 4 plate discs 21,5mm 21,4mm
Clutch hub Thickness 4,60mm 4,50mm
Hub height in grooved zone 26,0mm -
Total height of the hub 30,4mm -
Hub / pressure plate outer diameter 110mm -
The thickness of the pressure plate 9,70mm 9,60mm
Inside diameter of the hole in the pressure plate 38mm -
Total thickness of all the four springs clutch 35,5mm -
Normal length of the springs 35,2mm 33,5mm
Springs dimensions Ø18,5x35,2x13,3mm -
Pressure plate screws M6x22 -
Tightening torque of the screws on the table 1,2Kgf.m (12N.m) -
Clutch fixing on the primary shaft Castle nut (M16x1) -
Locking ring with retaining tabs (engine 200/240) -
Mounting position of the taper washer “Outside” out -
Clutch nut torque 93 N.m (9,5 Kgf.m) -
Clutch thrust bearing 16003 -
Stud pressure Simple -
FIVE CLUTCH SPRINGS (ENGINES 125/200Cm3)

3
ZS156FMI-2A (125cm –
Engines equipped with five clutch springs 2012…)
-
Number of clutch plates (coated) 5 -

Disc plate thickness 1,6mm 1,5mm


Thickness of the coated discs 5 + 4 plate discs 21,2mm 21,0mm
Height of threaded bolts on the five springs hub 31mm -
Total height of the hub 34,8mm -
Thickness of the five springs pressure plate 9,6mm 9,5mm
Mounting position of the plate on the five springs hub With aligned points -
Total thickness of all the five clutch springs 35,2mm 34,8mm
Springs dimensions Ø18,5x35,2x13,3 -
Normal length of the springs 35,2mm 33,3mm
Pressure plate screws M6x22 -
Tightening torque of the screws on the plate 1,2kgf.m (12N.m) -
Clutch fixing on the primary shaft Castle nut (M16x1) -
Locking ring with retaining tabs (engine 200/240) -
Mounting position of the taper ring “Outside” out -
Clutch nut torque 93 N.m (9,5 Kgf.m) -
Stud pressure in the five clutch springs Linked with pin -
SIX CLUTCH SPRINGS (ENGINE 240CM3)

3
Engine equipped with six clutch springs ZS169YMM (240Cm -
2013…)
Coated clutch discs HMC - 301 -
Number of coated discs 7 -


Disc plate thickness 1,20 – 1,15mm 1,10mm
Thickness of the coated discs 7 + 6 discs plate 27,3mm -
Minimum width of the box between hub and clutch plate 25,6mm -
Outside diameter of the grooved central ridge 39,95mm -
Hub height (aluminum) 38,85mm -
Total height of the hub clutch 40mm -
Thickness of the pressure plate 9,0mm 8,85mm
Height of the threaded bolts on the six springs plate 32,1mm -
Diameter of M5 bolts Ø10,7mm -
Total height of the pressure plate 34,9mm -
Total thickness of all the six clutch springs 39,7mm -
Normal length of the springs 35mm 33,5mm
Dimensions of the springs (with 6/7 turns) Ø17x35x12mm -
Pressure table screws M5x22 -
Tightening torque of the screws on the table 0,8kgf.m (8N.m) -
Fixing six clutch springs on the primary shaft Circlip 18mm -
Stud pressure Simple -
Sprocket / basket clutch Z70 -
Basket clutch With 8 + 8 cuts -
Total height of the clutch basket (outer) 41,9mm -
Inside height the basket clutch 39,5mm -

Height of the long cutouts 33,4mm -

Height of the short cutouts 8,8mm -
Width of the cutouts on the clutch basket 16,15mm 16,5mm
Total height of the basket with the clutch sprocket 61,5mm -
Height in the center basket / clutch sprocket 20,90mm -
Outer diameter of the clutch basket 120mm -
Inside diameter of the clutch basket 112mm -
Distance ring behind the clutch sprocket 30x42x1 -
Clutch lever Long -
Lever seal on the clutch cover O-rings -
Pin spring retaining on the clutch lever Elastic pin -
Pin mounting position on the lever Protruding 4,7mm -
Gap of the protrusions of the first coated disc On the lower cutouts -
Ring to fix the clearance on the pressure stud with
1.00mm thickness -
1.5mm discs
BEARINGS, SEALS, WASHERS AND ENGINE BOLTS

Component Dimensions
Crankshaft bearings 63/28 C3 (28x68x18)
Right crankcase bearing on the primary shaft 6006
Left crankcase bearing on the primary shaft 6202Z
Left crankcase bearing on the secondary shaft 6204
Right crankcase bearing on the secondary shaft HK152315
Thrust bearing in the clutch 16003
Bearings / bushings of the start-up reductions support HK101410
Camshaft Bearing 6203
Secondary shaft seal (pinion) 20x34x7
Gearshift shaft seal 14x28x7
Kick starter shaft seal 16x28x7
Sealing rings on the oil pump Ó-rings 9,4x2,4
Sealing ring at the start reduction cover 63x3
Sealing ring camshaft cover 75x2,65
Seal ring in the valve caps 35x3
Sealing ring in the oil filter cover 35x3
Sealing ring in the oil cap on the clutch cover 18x3
Sealing rings on the clutch lever 9x1,8
Sealing ring in the cylinder/cylinder head bushing guide (125) 10x1,6
Rectangular seal (200/240) 8x14x2,5 / 5,3x14x2,8

Sealing ring in the neutral contact 7x1,7

Sealing ring in the timing chain tensioner cover 9x1,8
Sealing ring on the bolt kicks stopper 11,8x2,65
Screw sealing ring of the phase inspection hole of the engine 13,8x2,5
Screw sealing ring of the flywheel/crankshaft hole 27,4x2,4
Sealing ring on the start motor phalange 25x3
Sealing ring on the bolts of the starter cover 4x2
Rubber bushing with two tabs
Rectangular seal on the cylinder head pin (200/240) Flat rubber washer
Stamped rectangular seal ring on the cylinder head pin With tab
Aluminum washer to seal the pivot bolt tensioner guide 8,5x14x1,5
Copper washer to seal the exhaust manifold 31,8x38,6x1,6
Special washers to gearbox
C1 washers on the secondary shaft 16,5x24x0,5
C2 washers on the secondary shaft 20x27x1
C1 washer on the primary shaft 15,2x25x1
Sprocket ribbed washers on the gears shaft 20x17,3x26x1,6
Starter sprocket washer on the primary shaft 20,5x27x0,5
Starter sprocket washer on the secondary shaft 15,2x30x1
Washer at the end of the kicks shaft 12,2x17,9x1
Washers of the shaft in the startup reductions 10,5x17,7x0,5
Distance washer from the clutch sprocket 240 30x42x0,5
Washer pitch of the clutch pressure pin 17x24x1
Ring on the flywheel bolt 10,5x23,6x2,4
Dimensions of the cylinder / cylinder head studs
Intake Ø6,5x212mm
Cylinder studs on the right crankcase (125cc engine)
side
Exhaust Ø8,5x212mm
Cylinder studs on the left crankcase (125cc engine) side Ø8,5x224mm
Intake Ø6,5x215mm
side
Exhaust Ø8,5x215mm
Intake Ø6,5x222mm
side
Exhaust Ø8,5x222mm
125cc M6x110
Screw of the valve mechanism chamber 200cc M6x113
240cc M6x120

ALTERNATOR
Service
Item Specifications
limit
Alternator 12V monophasic (ACG) -
Alternator power 12V 120W (0,12Kw / 5000rpm) -
Rectifier / current regulator MT12V8 – ZO5B (XFT1QO7) -
Rectifier type Monophasic / half wave -
Magnetic flywheel Type CFW -

Rotor puller thread lead M28x1 (right) -
Inside diameter of the flywheel 91mm -
Outside diameter of the flywheel 111.5mm -
Outer cam height 1,6 – 2,0mm -
Clearance between the cam and the pick-up 14mm (+/-) -
Clearance between the stator and flywheel 1mm (+/-) -
Manufacturer reference of the neutral position “T” -
Manufacturer reference of the ignition point advance “F” -
Rotational direction of the magnetic flywheel Counterclockwise -
Flywheel fixing bolt on the crankshaft M8x1.25x35 or M10x1x40 -
Washer of the flywheel bolt 8,5x24x3,5 or 10,5x23,6x2,4 -
M8 bolt tightening of the flywheel M8 32.m (3,2Kgf.m) -
M10 bolt tightening of the flywheel M10 39N.m (4,0Kgf.m) -
Stator 8 Poles (12V8C) -

Stator outside diameter 89mm -
Stator inside diameter 29mm -
Stator height 29mm -
Distance between the stator and the pick-up 15mm -
Fixing holes 6,3mm (x2) -
Stator fixing on the engine cover M6x30 w/phalange -
Pick-up fixing screws PH M4x12 -

STARTER MOTOR
Engine Service
Element / Item
125/200 240 limit
Z71BB11CB125 Z237C10CB20
Starter motor D (AHO511) 0-3 #E
-
Induced resistance 0,6Ω 0,3 – 0,6Ω

Diameter on the induced core 40,8mm 46,0mm -
Total length of the shaft 152mm 152,5mm -
Diameter of the shaft (on the side of the teeth) 13,5mm 15mm -
Diameter of the shaft (on the collector side brushes) 9mm -
Diameter induced brushes switch 125/200 engine 22,5mm - 20mm
Diameter induced brushes switch 240 engine - 28,2mm 26,0mm
Number of layers on the copper collector 10 21 -
Number of coal brushes 2 -
Length of the brushes 12mm 10,5mm 6,5mm
Dimensions of the brushes 8,5x6x12 10x6x10,5 -
Diameter of the brushes plate 56mm 58,9x28,4mm -
Brush springs 2 -
Magnetic housing 2 Magnets 4 Magnets -
Outer diameter of the magnetic housing 62,5mm 62,5mm -
Inside diameter of the housing magnets 41,8mm 46,8mm -
Length of the magnetic housing 67mm -
Brushes screw terminal (square head) M6x25 -
Terminal screw internal insulator Bakelite (square) -
Terminal screw external insulator (bushing) Bakelite (round) -
Ò-ring outer sealing of the terminal screw 5x2 -
Inside washer on the top of the shaft (right side /
9,2x18x0,5 9,2x18x0,8 -
brushes)
Induced shaft washer (side grooves / left) 14,1x24,8x0,5 15,1x23x0,5 -
59x1,9
Start motor cover seal O-ring 55x1,5
(rectangular)
Left cover shaft seal 13,5x24x6 15x25x5
Retaining washer of the seal on the left cover
13,7x28x1,6 -
(125cc)
Retention washer with tabs on the left side (240cc) - 16,5x30x1x5 -
Sealing ring of the starter covers 53x1,5 59x1,9mm -
Seal in the cap bolts Ó-ring 4x2 3,5x1,5 -
Screw caps / motor housing M5x90 (PH) -
nd
Hole cover of the starter (2 version) 9,3x5 (10x6,8) 9,1x3,6mm -

Ò-ring sealing of the starter phalange 25x3mm -

Fillister aligned with the
Assembly position of the right cover protrusion on the brushes plate
-
Face down,
aligned w / Facing
Marks on the magnetic housing brand on the upwards
-
right cover
Rotational direction of the starter Clockwise -
Gears starter system
Number of teeth on the shaft of the starter motor Z10 Z11 -
Number of teeth of the primary starter reduction Z61/Z21 Z60/Z24 -
Number of teeth of the secondary starter reduction Z15/Z16 Z15/Z22 -
Number of teeth Z56
Outside diameter of the
tsprocket on the sprocket 54,20mm 42,20mm - 0,2mm
starter
Inner diameter of the sprocket

20 or 22mm 22mm + 0,1mm
Starter sprocket bushing
Distance ring from the sprocket

20,2x31,8x3,5 - -
to the crankshaft (Ø20)
Distance ring from the sprocket

22,1x34x3,5 -
to the crankshaft (Ø22)
3 cylindrical One-way
In the flywheel roller bearing
-
Starter clutch rollers 10,2x11,5 mm - 10mm

Spring rollers 3,85x30 mm - 25mm
Spring rollers cover 4x5,3x10,8 mm - -
WJS1210
One-way bearing - -
Starter clutch 20 rollers
I.D. of the starter clutch body - 58,8mm -
O.D. of the starter clutch body - 87,75mm -
I.D. of the fillister fit on the
- 84,80mm -
flywheel
Flywheel fixing screws DIN 912 M8x16
Tightening of the fixing screws 14 – 17 N.m. (1,4 – 1,7 Kgf.m)
Starter gear In the primary shaft Z19
In the secondary shaft Z29
Starter gear sleeve of the
16,5x20x7,8
secondary shaft
In the kick shaft Z29

FUEL FEED SYSTEM

FUEL FEED SYSTEM PIPES
Element Specification Service limit

Outlet pipe between tank / filter Ø9x5x220mm -
Outlet pipe between filter / pump Ø9x5x220mm -
Outlet pipe between pump / bypass T Ø9x5x170mm -
Supply pipe between T / carburetor Ø9x5x60mm -
Return pipe between T / tank Ø9x5x385mm -
Vacuum pipe between pump / nozzle inlet Ø9x5x210mm -
Gasoline filter IDEAL 6mm -

SPECIFICATIONS FOR CARBURETORS ADJUSTMENT

PR4- PR4- PR3 125/200 PR3-200 PR3/PR4 PR3/PR4 PR3/PR4 PR4-240
Model 125 200 Catalyst Catalyst 125/200 MX MX Extreme
/Version (2001 / (2005 / (2009) (2009/2011) MX (France) (Brazil) (2015)
(Year) 2004) 2008) (2009) (2010/ (2012 –
2011) today)
SHENG
Walbro SHENG WEI Walbro DEKNI DEKNI DEKNI
Carburetor WEI Walbro PZ30
PZ30 PD5 PZ30 PZ30 PZ30 PZ30
PD5
Venturi
26mm 30mm 26mm 30mm 30mm 30mm 30mm 30mm
diameter
# 115
Main jet # 120 # 95 # 95 # 110 # 110 # 105 # 110
(# 118)
Idle jet # 50 # 50 # 45 # 45 # 50 # 45 # 48 # 48
1.5
Air screw 2 turns 3/4 turn 1 turn 2 turns 1.5 turns 2.5 turns 1.5 turns
turns
Needle
1st slot 3rd slot
Bridle
Piston
125KA AAA 125KA AAA CC
Needle
Needle M7x
M7x
diffuser 5+5+2+2
Top diffuser Ø2,66 cylinder
Accelerator O1C CO CO
O1C Ø22
piston Ø22 Ø24 Ø24
O-ring
29x2,5 34x2 29x2,5 34x2 33,5x2,5
phalange
SF 172-
Float K 22-8 K 22-8 SF 172-2
2
Valve seat
Ø2,0mm
hole
Float level 12mm 14mm
Conical
Ø5,2x17
valve float
Float axis Ø2,5x25
Power jet
Yes
pump
Rings in the
- 2 - 2 -
arm
O-ring from
4x1,5 4x1 4x1,5 4x1 4x1,5
the vat
O-ring air
2,5x1
screw
O-ring on the
drain screw 4x1,2
vat
Breather
4x6,5x370
pipe
Air tab
By cable Manual
(chok)
Ring air tab - - - 5,3x9,8x0,9
Idling speed
1400(+/-100rpm)
(rpm)

STEERING STEM

Bearings type Conical -
6205RS / 32005C or
Bearings of the steering column 1st Version -
32005C (x2)
Nylon Washer
Bearings seals 1st Version 25x51,5x1,6 or -
25x52x4,5x0,5
Preload of the steering column bearings 0,4 – 0,6kgf.m -
Steering column adjustment nut (in castle) M25x1 -
Table top nut (30mm hex) M25x1 -
PR3 (PAIOLI 36mm) Steel, M25x1 -
PR4 (PAIOLI 41mm) Steel, M25x1 -
Steering stem shaft
PR3 (FASTACE 38mm) Outer thread M25x1 -
PR4 (Marzocchi 40mm) Inner thread M20x1,50 -
Upper triple clamp screw Fastace M8x40 -
Lower triple clam screw Fastace M8x25
Triple clamp tightening Fastace 22N.m (2,2Kgf.m) -
Screw of the shaft / table PR4 fork (Marzocchi 40mm) M20x1,5 -
Washer of the screw / triple clamp shaft (Marzocchi 40mm) 20x40x3 -
Washer of the lower bearing PR4 (Marzocchi 40mm) 25x35x1,5 -
Triple clamp screw (Marzocchi 40mm) M8x40 w/phalange -
Triple clamp tightening (Marzocchi 40mm) 22N.m (2,2Kgf.m) -
Screws of the handlebar clamps on triple clamp (Marzocchi
M10x60 w/ nut -
40mm)
Handlebar clamps on triple clamp tightening(Marzocchi
34N.m (3,5Kgf.m) -
40mm)
Shaft of the steering column (PR4-Special Anodized aluminum
-
Edition/EXTREME) (M25x1)
Hole plug on the shaft of the steering stem PVC -
Upper EXTREME triple clamp (anodized aluminum) Hole Ø 54mm -
Lower EXTREME triple clamp (anodized aluminum) Hole Ø 59mm -
Special screws in EXTREME triple clamp M8x20 -
Upper triple clamp tightening 18N.m (1,8Kgf.m) -
Lower triple clamp tightening 15N.m (1,5Kgf.m) -
Handlebar clamps AJP / REIKON Ø 29MM -
Screws of the handlebar clamps M12 -
EN/SM/TR REIKON 9007 BK -
Handlebar
EXTREME REIKON 9017 BK -

FRONT SUSPENSION

Front wheel axle PR3 (FASTACE fork) M14x1,5 (galvanized steel) -
Front wheel axle PR4 EN/SM/TRAIL M14x1,5 (galvanized steel) -
Front wheel axle PR4 EXTREME M20x1,5 (anodized aluminum)
Warping of the front axle - 0,2
Length 73mm (M20x1,5) -
Threaded bushing / front
wheel shaft EN/SM Mounting position in
3mm protruding out -
the Sachs fork
Length 65mm (M20x1,5) -
Threaded bushing / front
wheel shaft Extreme Mounting position in
10mm protruding out -
the Marzocchi fork
PR3-MX/PRO fork (2007 – 2009) MARZOCCHI SHIVER 45 -

Type Up Side Down -
Forks (finishing) Black (DLC coating) -
Diameter of the fork 45mm -
Dimensions of the fork Ø45x500mm -
Cover fork torque 30N.m (3,0Kgf.m) -
Tightening of the pipes / fork in door-axis 150N.m (15Kgf.m) -
Seals retainers 45x58x11 -
Dust seals scrapers 45x58,5x13 -
Fork springs 435mm -
Dimensions of the springs Ø40x30,5x435mm -
Wire thickness of the springs 4,5mm -
Springs constant K =45 N/m (4,6Kgf/mm) -
Preload plug of the springs 25mm -
Dimensions of the preload plug (nylon) Ø39,5x32x25mm -
Oil quantity in each fork 610ml -
Oil level in the hydraulic (fork all down) 120mm (+/- 2,5mm) -
Hydraulic oil type ENI/AGIP Fork SAE 7,5W -
Vase / exterior fork tube Anodized (black) -
Forks hole in the lower triple clamp Ø57mm -
Forks hole in the upper triple clamp Ø53mm -
Tightening of the forks on the triple clamp 18N.m (1,8Kgf.m) -
Sphere on the hydraulic adjustment rod Ø5mm -
Hydraulic stroke 250mm -
Maximum length 829mm (+/- 2%) -

Average length (no load) 824mm (+/- 2%) -

Minimum length 574mm (with fork down) -
Adjuster function on the forks cover Extension -
Adjuster function at the bottom of the forks Compression -
12 Clicks
Compression (on top) -
(Since all tight)
Standard adjustment
Extension (on the 10 Clicks
-
bottom) (Since all tight)
PR3-EN/SM fork (2009 - 2011) PAIOLI 36mm -

Type Mechanical, conventional -
Height (between the cover of the forks and the -

850mm (+/-3%)
wheel axle)
Forks Ø36mm (hard chrome) -

Dimensions of the forks Ø36x684mm -
Seals retainers 36x48x11 -
Seals scrapers 36x48,5x13 -
Quantity of oil in the hydraulic 300ml -
Recommended oil type ENI/AGIP Fork SAE 10W -
Dimensions of the springs Ø29x560x21mm -
Wire thickness of the springs 4mm -
Springs constant K=40N/mm (4,1Kgf/mm)
Preload plug of the springs H = 70mm -
Dimensions of the preload plug Ø30x70x24mm -
Limit spring (extension) 27mm -
Cover forks M32x1.5 (Hexag.22mm) -
O-ring in the fork cover 26x3,5 -
Tightening torque of the forks cover 19 – 24N.m (2 – 2,5Kgf.m) -
Piston port-segments of the hydraulic Ø27x30,6x14mm -
Hydraulic piston segment (red) 9,2mm (nylon) -
Hydraulic piston tube / rod Ø16x315mm -
Upper oil passage holes in the tube Ø2,5mm (x2) -
Lower oil passage holes in the tube Ø4,7mm (x4) -
Cone at the lower end of the hydraulic tube 16,2x20x33mm -
Cone centering washer at the end of the tube 25x51,5x1,6mm -
hidráulicthe o

Lower fork retaining screw DIN 912 M12x35 -

Sealing washer in the bottom of the fork screw Copper (12,2x18,6x1,2) -
Torque of the lower retaining screw 36N.m (3,7Kgf.m) -
Forks fixing screw on the lower triple clamp (T) DIN 912 M6x35
Forks torque in the lower triple clamp 12N.m (12Kgf.m) -
Forks fixing screws at the upper triple clamp UNI 5737 M8x40 -
Forks torque at the lower triple clamp 25N.m (2,4Kgf.m) -
Screws in the handlebar clamps DIN 912 M8x30 -
Torque of the handlebar clamps 25N.m (2,4Kgf.m) -
Wheel axle fixing bolts DIN 912 M3x20 -
Torque of the wheel axle retaining screws 10N.m (10Kgf.m) -
Bellows protection forks (optional) Polisport (DTR 125 type) -
PR4-EN/SM/TRAIL fork (2001 – 2010) PAIOLI 41mm -

Type Hydraulic -
Maximum stroke 260mm -
Height (between the cover of the forks and the 890mm (+/-3%) -
wheel axle)
Forks Ø41mm (hard chrome) -
Dimensions of the forks Ø41x700x36mm -
Seals retainers 41x53x10,5 -
Seals scrapers 41x53,5x13 -
Quantity of oil in the hydraulic 430ml -
Oil level (with fork whole down) 190mm -
Recommended oil type ENI/AGIP Fork SAE 10W -
Dimensions of the springs 35x24,5x557 -
Wire thickness of the springs 5mm -
Springs constant K = 42N/mm (4,3Kgf/mm) -
Preload bushing on the springs H = 38mm -
Dimensions of the bushing / pre-load plug 32x35x38 -
Tabbed washer between the preload plug and the 21,4x35,3x1,6x5,8
spring
Forks cover (Hexagonal 24mm) M38x1 -
O-ring in the fork cover 41x2,5mm -
Torque of the forks cover 24N.m (2,5Kgf.m) -
Limit spring (extension) 37,5mm (24,7x32,5x37,5)
Piston port-segments of the hydraulic 33mm -

Hydraulic piston segment (nylon) 6mm -

Hydraulic piston tube / rod M14x1,5 (Ø22x333) -
Upper oil passage holes in the tube Ø2,5mm (x1) -
Lower oil passage holes in the tube Ø5mm (x2) -
Plug / cone at the end of the hydraulic tube 22x28x35mm -
Bridle inside the forks Seeger JV32 -
Lower fork retaining screw DIN 912 M14x1.5x25 -
Sealing washer in the screw of the bottom of the 14,5x20x1,5 (copper) -
fork
Torque of the lower retaining screw 30 – 32N.m (3,0 – 3,2Kgf.m) -
Screws of the forks in the lower triple clamp (T) DIN 7984 M8x45 -
Screws of the forks at the upper triple clamp DIN 7984 M8x40 -
Forks torque on the tables 25N.m (2,4Kgf.m) -
Screws of the handlebar clamps UNI 5931 M8x30 -
Torque of the handlebar clamps 25N.m (2,4Kgf.m) -
Wheel axle fixing bolts DIN 912 M6x35 -
Torque of the wheel axle retaining screws 10N.m (10Kgf.m) -
Bellows protection of forks (optional) Polisport (DTR 125 type) -
PR3-EN/PRO/MX/SM/TRAIL fork (2012 - …) FASTACE

Fork type Up Side Down, 38mm -
Forks Ø38mm (chrome) -
Dimensions of the forks 38x545mm -
Passage hole in the oil forks 4 (Ø5mm) -
Tubes of the outer forks 530mm (anodized, black) -
Dimensions of the outer forks tube Ø51x48x38x530 -
Maximum warpage of the tubes / forks fork - 0,2
Forks covers M42x1.25 (Hexag.30mm) -
O-ring on the forks covers 38x2,54 -
Seal oil retainer 38x49x10 -
ID retainer NR9933 (PI4) -
Seal scraper 38x49,3x14,5 -
Scraper ID NR9962 XICY (PIA) -

Retaining ring bushing guide fork (rectangular) 50x1,8x1,9mm -
Washer retaining fork bushing guide 39,5x48,6x2mm -
Lower Bushing guide (TEFLON coated) Ø38x42x23,8mm -
Upper Bushing guide (TEFLON coated) Ø36x38,2x11,8mm -

Screw purge air in the fork cover M5x6 -

O-ring of the air purge screw 4,8x1,8 -
Limiting ring of the forks protections 50x2mm -
Fork / lower valve fixing nut M18x1 (Hexag. 19mm) -
Sealing ring of the fixing nut lower forks 18x2,35 -
Spring fork (no load) 402mm -
Dimensions of the springs Ø31,2x402x22,5mm -
Wire thickness of the springs 4,25mm -
Installed spring length in the cartridge 397mm -
Nylon bushing on the rod of the hydraulic cartridge Ø12x120x22,6mm -
Fine spring separator on the cartridge rod 60mm (Ø17x14x60) -
Aluminum adjuster inside the rod M12 (18mm height) -
Distance between the adjuster on the rod and fork 81,5mm -
cover
O-rings seals of the adjuster in the fork cover 4,5x1,9 -
Ball fixer of the adjuster position 3mm -
Rod / needle aluminum hydraulic regulation Ø4x45x433mm -
Hydraulic cartridge tube M22x1 (Ø25x390x22) -
Valve thread pitch on the cartridge tube M12 -
Oil quantity (in each fork) 355ml -
Recommended oil AGIP FORK SAE 5W -
In the fork covers Return (extension) -
Tight (F) Slower return -
Function of the fork Loosened (S) Faster return -

adjusters At the bottom of the fork Compression -
Tight Harder -
Loosened Softer -
2 Clicks
Return (on top) (Since all tight)
-
Standard regulation
FASTACE Compression (on the 5 Clicks
-
bottom) (Since all tight)
PR4 EN/SM/TRAIL fork (2012) MARZOCCHI USD 40mm -

Type Up side down -
Forks of the fork Ø 40x610mm -
Tubes of the outer forks 568mm -
Maximum warpage of the tubes / forks of the fork - 0,2

Spring length (no load) 480mm -

Length of the springs (installed w / preload) 470mm -
Spring constant 40N/mm (4,1Kgf/mm) -
Dimensions of the fork springs Ø34,5x480x25,6mm -
Springs preload bushing Ø 40x65mm (nylon) -
Spring preload 10mm -
Oil seals retainers of the forks 40x52x10,6 -
Seals dust scrapers 40x52,5x4,9x14 -
Retaining ring of the seals Ø 41,2x51,6x3mm -
Holding bridle of the seals (rectangular) Ø55,5x51,6x1,3mm -
Fork cover M45x1,25 (hexagonal 30mm) -
O-ring of the fork cover 40x3,5 -
Fork cover torque 2,5Kgf,m -
Hydraulic cartridge tube Ø28x350mm -
Rod / piston of the hydraulic cartridge M12x1 Ø12x590 (aluminum) -
M12x1 adjustment nut on the rod end 27mm of the tip top -
Hydraulic adjustment rod Ø5x577mm (aluminum) -
Distance sleeve on the rod Ø25x120x12mm -
Regulation of the preload adjusting nut 10mm away from the nylon -
bushing
Lower fixation screw DIN 912 – M10x30 -
Lower sealing ring Ø10x16x1,5 (copper) -
Recommended oil AGIP FORK SAE 10W -
Fork oil capacity (each fork) 430ml -
Left fork Compression (+ C -) -
Fork adjustment
Right fork Return/extension (+ R -) -
Standard regulation Return 2 Turns (Since all tight) -

MARZOCCHI USD 40 Compression 2 Turns (Since all tight) -
PR4 Special edition SACHS 48mm -

Type Up side down -
Forks of the fork Ø 48mm -
Tubes of the outer forks 670x59xx54 -
Maximum warping of the tubes / forks fork - 0,2
Spring length (no load) 461mm 438,1mm
Springs preload 4mm -
Springs constant K = 42N/mm (4,3Kgf/mm) -
Springs dimensions Ø 43,5x461x33,5 -

Oil seals retainers of the forks 48x58x11 (Sachs) -

Seals dust scrapers 48x58,5x13 (Sachs) -
st
Covers forks (1 version - 2010/2012) 10 Faces (50mm) -
nd
Covers forks (2 version – 2013) 10 Faces -
O-ring of the fork cover 47x2,5 -
O-ring of the spring preload adjuster 22x2,0 -
O-ring of the preload adjuster retaining nut 40x1,75 -
O-ring of the return adjuster (M8) 3x1,75 -
O-ring of the screw air purging 2,8x1 // 3,8x1 -
Air purging screw (w/ O-ring) M3x6 // M4x6 -
Adjust of the square nut on the spring preload 20mm height 18 - 23mm
Recommended oil AGIP FORK 10W -
Fork oil capacity (each fork) 596ml -
Oil level on each side (w / fork descent) 130mm -
Return (up) 10 Cliques (since all loosened) -
Standard regulation
Compression (down) 16 Cliques (Since all tight) -
Load setting of the External Adjuster on the All rotated to the left -
springs forks covers
PR4 EXTREME Fork MARZOCCHI 48mm -

Forks of the fork Ø 48x592mm (DLC coating) -
Outer forks tubes (Bordeaux) 569x59x54X48 -
Maximum Warping of the tubes / forks fork - 0,2
Spring length (no load) 475mm 465mm
Preload of the springs Extreme (standard) nd
Retention bridle in 2 slot -
(inside hydraulic
cartridge) Extreme (competition) Retention bridle in 1st slot -
Soft K=39,2N/mm (4,0Kgf/mm) -

Fork springs constant
Hard K=41,2N/mm (4,2Kgf/mm) -
Springs length 475mm -

Fork springs dimensions Ø 43,5x475x33,7 (Ø5mm) -
Springs type of material 55Cr Si6 Steel -
Oil seals retainers of the forks 48x58x11 -
Seals dust scrapers 48x58,5x13 -
Type of hydraulic cartridge Sealed cartridges -
Forks covers M61x3 (8 sides - 49mm) -

Torque of the hydraulic cartridge cover on the fork 2Kgf.m (20Nm) -
O-ring of the fork cover 45x2,5mm -

O-ring of the screw air purging 4x1,5mm -
Purging air screw M4x6 -
Cartridges type Sealed -
Adjuster in the bottom of the
Compression valve -
fork
Extension / return valve Adjuster in the fork cover -
Adjust with a socket wrench
PFP valve (triangular adjuster at the fork cover) 22mm
-
O-ring of the cartridge lower fixing nut 24x1,8mm -

Lower cartridge fixing nut (in the bottom of the M16x1 -
fork)
Lower fixing nut torque 5,0Kgf/m (50N.m) -
Recommended oil (standard) AGIP FORK SAE 7,5W -
Hydraulic oil for softer suspension AGIP FORK SAE 2,5W -
Oil capacity in each cartridge 210ml -
Minimum 300ml
Oil capacity of the fork in each fork 340ml
Maximum 400ml
Oil level in the forks (with return bar fully extended
140mm -
and without compression group)
In the center of the cover Return -

Adjusters function Triangular PFP (Preload) -
At the foot of the fork Compression -
Compression 25 Clicks -
Adjusters full stroke Return 25 Clicks -
Preload (PFP) 10 Turns -
Return (on top) 10 Clicks -
Standard regulation
MARZOCCHI 48mm Compression (on the
12 Clicks -
bottom)
Exterior triangular 2 turns from the all open
PFP regulation adjuster on the cover of position
-
the forks
Spring preload Inside holding bridle 1st slot (on top) -
External adjustment of Exterior triangular

adjuster on the cover of All rotated to the left -
the springs load
the forks

REAR SUSPENSION
Service
limit
Progressive system Connecting rods -
PR3 270mm -
Maximum stroke of the rear suspension
PR4 275mm -
Rear axle PR3/PR4 Ø15x255mm (M14x1.5) -
Maximum warping of the rear axle - 0,2
Aluminum cast and CNC
PR3/PR4 swing arm -
machined
PR3 – Trail swing arm Steel -
Wing arm protection thickness 5mm 2mm
Chain guide roller diameter (in the frame) Ø25mm Ø25-30mm
Swing arm bearings PR4 HK2020RS or HK2016RS -
Swing arm bearings PR3 HK2016RS
Bushings of the swing arm shaft 20x15x40 -
Washers of the swing arm 20x41x3 -
Frame connecting rod PR4 (2001 – 2006) (short) Steel, zinced -
Frame connecting rod PR4 (2001 – 2006) (long) Steel, zinced -
Frame connecting rod bearings HK1814RS -
Frame connecting rod bushing 18x10x65 -
Frame connecting rod washer Nylon, 29x18 -
Swing arm connecting rod PR4 (2001 – 2006) Steel, zinced -
Swing arm connecting rod bearings HK2020RS -
Swing arm / swing arm connecting rod bushing 20x12x50 -
Swing arm / swing arm connecting rod washers 31x20x2,5 -
Frame connecting rod PR3/PR4 (2007 – …) Aluminum casting -
Frame connecting rod bearings HK1620RS -
Frame connecting rod bushing 16x10x65 -
Frame connecting rod washers 16x31x1,7 16x31x2,0
Swing arm connecting rod PR3/PR4 (2007 – …) Aluminum casting -
Connecting rod bearings in the arm HK2020RS -
Connecting rod bushing in the arm 20x12x50 -
Washers of the swing arm connecting rod (nylon) 20x31x2,2 -
Connecting rod bearings swing arm / frame HK1814RS -
Connecting rod bushing swing arm / frame 18x12x41 -
Connecting rod ball joints frame / bumper 16x26x12 -

Kneecap O-ring seal connecting rod / frame 22x2 -

Bushings of the kneecap frame connecting rod 4,6mm (10x24x12x4,6) -
Motor shaft / swing arm M14x1,5 (Ø15x255) -
Connecting rod bolt in the frame PR3/PR4 DIN 912 M10x90 -
Connecting rod bolt in the swing arm PR3/PR4 DIN 912 M12x105 -
Screw of the connecting rods union PR3/PR4 DIN 912 M12x80 -
PR3/PR4 – PRO rear shock absorber SACHS (w / reservoir) -

Shock absorber length 365mm -
Maximum shock absorber stroke 125mm -
Stroke stop height 50mm -
ENDURO 210mm -
Absorber assembly spring preload
SUPERMOTO 205mm -
(standard)
EXTREME 210mm -
Spring constant 55N/mm (5,6kg/mm) -
Gas pressure in the reservoir 981KPa (10Kgf/cm2) -
Type of gas in the Shock absorber reservoir Nitrogen -
Shock absorber adjustment for high speed
12 Clicks (after all tight) -
compression (external adjuster in the reservoir)
Shock absorber regulation at low speed compression
(adjuster inside the reservoir)
Shock absorber regulation in return / hydraulic brake
(bottom adjuster along the right connecting rod)
Away bushings from the shock absorber to the beams 5x10x24 -
Lower fixing screw M10x50 -
PR4 – EN/SM rear shock absorber SACHS (without reservoir) -

Absorber assembly spring preload ENDURO 210mm -
(standard) SUPERMOTO 205mm -
Away bushings from the shock absorber to the beams 8x10x22 -

PR3 – EN/SM rear shock absorber OLÉ (w/ red spring) -

Absorber assembly spring preload ENDURO 210mm -

(standard) SUPERMOTO 205mm -
PR3 – TRAIL rear shock absorber OLÉ (w/ white spring) -

Adjusting nut M40x1 -
Fixation pin of the adjusting nut M5x10 -
Spring dimensions 45x70x170mm -
Absorber spring preload (standard) 163mm -
-
Spring constant 56N.mm -
WHEELS AND TYRES

Service
limit
Front 70/100 – 19” -
PR3 MX
Rear 100/100 – 16” -
Front 70/100 – 19” -
PR3 EN/TRAIL
Rear 100/100 – 17” -
Front Michelin 100/80 – 17” -
PR3 SM
Rear Michelin 130/80 – 17” -
Tires
Front Michelin 90/90 – 21” ENDURO -
PR4 ENDURO
Rear Michelin 120/80 – 18” ENDURO -
PR4 TRAIL
PR4 SUPERMOTO

PIRELLI 2.75 – 21”

Front (Professional MT43)
-
PR4 ULTRAPASSAR
PIRELLI 4.00 – 18”
Rear (Professional MT43)
-
Michelin 90/90 – 21”

Front COMPETTITION
-
PR4 SPECIAL
EDITION / EXTREME Michelin 130/80 – 18”
Rear COMPETTITION III
-
Front 1.40x19” – 32T -

PR3 MX
Rear 1.60x16” – 32T -
Front 1.40x19” – 32T -
PR3 EN/TRAIL
Rear 1.85x17” – 32T -
Front 2.50x17” – 32T -
PR3 SM
Rear 3.50x17” – 32T -
J21x1.60 DOT (36T)
Front (Left drilling)
-
Tire rim PR4 EN/TR/
ULTRAPASSAR J18x2.15 DOT (36T)
Rear (Left drilling)
-
J17x2.50 DOT (36T)

Front (Left drilling)
-
PR4 SUPERMOTO
J17x3.50 DOT (36T)
Rear (Left drilling)
-
PR4 SPECIAL Front 1.60x21” – 36T -

EDITION / EXTREME Rear 2.15x18” – 36T -
Radial - 0,2
Rim / wheel warpage
Axial - 2,0
ENDURO/TRAIL/MX 150kPa (1,5Kgf/cm2) -
2
SUPERMOTO 175kPa (1,75Kgf/cm ) -
Front tire pressure (cold)
EXTREME/ SPECIAL
100kPa (1,00
EDITION 120kPa (1,20Kgf/cm 2)
Kgf/cm2)
ULTRAPASSAR
2
ENDURO/TRAIL/MX 175kPa (1,75Kgf/cm ) -
2
SUPERMOTO 200kPa (2,00Kgf/cm ) -
Rear tire pressure (cold)
EXTREME/ SPECIAL
100kPa (1,00
EDITION 120kPa (1,20Kgf/cm 2)
Kgf/cm2)
ULTRAPASSAR
PR3 EN/MX/TRAIL 19” -
Front air tube PR3/PR4 SM 100/80 – 17” -
PR4 EN/TRAIL 90/90 – 21” -

PR4 See expiration

90/90 – 21” / Bibe-mousse
EXTREME/Competition date
PR3 MX 16” -
PR3 EN/TRAIL 17” -
PR3/PR4 SM 100/80 – 17” -
Rear air tube EN/TRAIL 18” -
See expiration
EXTREME/Competition 90/90 – 21” / Bibe-mousse
date
PR3-240 EN/PRO rear 1.85” -

PR4-240
EN/PRO/EXTREME 1.60” -
Tire fixing plug front
PR4-240
EN/PRO/EXTREME 2.15” -
rear
Front wheels
PR3 all models Trial 32 holes (polished) -
Wheel hubs PR4 EN/SM/TRAIL UNISON (black) -
PR4 EXTREME AJP/MORAD (Bordeaux) -
PR3 EN/MX/TRAIL 238x3,8mm -
PR3 SM 207x3,8mm -
Length of the front wheel
PR4 EN 240x3,8mm -
spokes
PR4 SM 195x3,8mm -
PR4 EXTREME 245x3,5mm -
Amount of the front wheel PR3 32 -

spokes PR4 36 -
PR3 wheels (MORAD) 8º -
Bend angle of the spokes PR4 wheels (UNISON) 12º -
PR4 wheels EXTREME 10º -
Wrench size to adjust the spokes 5,9mm 5,4mm -
PR3/PR4 front wheel bearings 6004 2RS (x2) -
PR4 front wheel bearing seals 25x42x7 (x2) -
PR3 Ø66mm (28x66x20,3) -
Spacer tube of the
PR4 (UNISON hub) Ø62mm (27x62x21) -
wheels hub bearings
PR4 (EXTREME) Ø66mm (28x66x21) -
O-ring of the spacer bearings (UNISON hub) 28x3mm -
Front wheel bushings
PR3 w/ MARZOCCHI Left / disc side 11mm -

SHIVER 45mm fork Right side 18mm -

Left / disc side 30mm -
PR3 w/ PAIOLLI 36mm
Right side 15mm -
PR3 w/ PAIOLLI 41mm
Right side 29mm -
Left / disc side 8,6mm -
PR3 with FASTACE fork
Right side 14mm -
PR4 with GRIMECA hub
Right side 25mm -
PR4 with PAIOLLI 41mm Left / disc side 30mm -
fork Right side 16mm -
PR4-2014 with Left / disc side 19mm -
Marzocchi 40mm fork Right side 23,5mm -
Rear Wheels
Right 207x3,8mm -
PR3 – SM
Left 210x3,8mm -
Right 212x3,8mm -
PR3 – EN
Left 215x3,8mm -
Right 195x3,8mm -
Length of the PR3 – MX
Left 207x3,8mm -
rear wheel
spokes Right 210x3,8mm -
PR4 – EN
Left 207x3,8mm -
Right 192x3,8mm -
PR4 – SM
Left 189x3,8mm -
PR4 - Right 192x3,8mm -
EXTREME Left 198x3,8mm -
PR3 32 -
Rear wheel spokes number
PR4 36 -
PR3 wheels (MORAD) 8º -
Bend angle of the spokes PR4 wheels (UNISON) 12º -
PR4-EXTREME wheels 10º -
Torque of the spokes in the wheels 0,3kgf.m (3,0N.m) -
MORAD Trial 32 holes
PR3 -
(polished)
Wheel hubs
PR4 EN/SM/TR UNISON (black) -
PR4 EXTREME AJP/MORAD (Bordeaux) -
Rear hub PR3 Disc side 6004 2RS -

bearings Sprocket side 6004 2RS -

PR4 Disc side 6005 2RS -
EN/SM/TRAIL Sprocket side 6005 2RS (x2) -
Disc side 6005 2RS 6204 2RS -
6204 2RS 6005 2RS
PR4 -
(ext.) (ext.)
EXTREME Sprocket side
6005 2RS
6005 2RS (int.) -
(int.)
PR3 Ø121mm (25x121x17,2) (steel) -
Spacer tube of the wheels hub PR4
Ø94,5mm (32x94,5x26) -
bearings EN/SM/TRAIL
PR4 EXTREME Ø100,5 mm (30x100x26) -
O-ring of the spacer bearings (UNISON hub) 28x3 -
PR4 Disc side 30x47x7 -
EN/SM/TRAIL Sprocket side 30x47x7 -
Rear hub seals
PR4 Disc side 30x42x7 -
EXTREME Sprocket side 30x47x7 -
Disc side 7,5mm -
PR3 Disc side (2015) 5mm
Sprocket side 14mm -
Sprocket side 20mm (galvanized iron) -
PR4 (MORAD
Sprocket side 11mm (galvanized iron) -
Rear wheel hub)
Caliper support 16,5mm thick -
bushings
PR4 Disc side 12mm (aluminum) -
EN/SM/TRAIL/
Ultrapassar Sprocket side 27mm (aluminum) -
PR4 Disc side 10mm (aluminum) -

EXTREME Sprocket side 21mm (aluminum) -
BRAKE SYSTEM
Service
limit
Brake fluid DOT 4 -
Replace every
Recommended oil for brakes ENI-AGIP
2 years
Front Ø 255mm -
PR3 (2007 – 2011)
Discs Rear Ø 185mm -
PR3 (2012 - …) Front Ø 240mm -

Rear Ø 220mm -
Front Ø 260mm -
PR4 (2009 – 2011)
Rear Ø 210mm -
Front Ø 260mm -
PR4 (2012 - …)
Rear Ø 220mm -
Front (… - 2014) Ø 260mm -
PR4 EXTREME
Front (2014 -…) Ø 270mm -
Brake discs thickness 3,5mm 3,0mm
Maximum warping of the brake discs - 0,25mm
Synthesized material without
Brake pads asbestos
-
Right 6,2mm Until the slit or

Brake pads thickness 1mm before
Left 6,4mm the steel plate
Front 2 Pistons, Ø 25mm -
PR3 2 Pistons, Ø 32mm or 2
Rear Pistons, Ø 25mm
-
Brake calipers
Front 2 Pistons, Ø 25mm -
PR4 4 Pistons, Ø 25mm or 2
Rear Pistons, Ø 25mm
-
Brake calipers type Floating -
PR3 (2007 – Front 1170mm -

2010) Rear 570mm -
PR3 (2010 – Front 1160mm -
2014) Rear 600mm -
Front 1210mm -
PR4 (2001)
Rear 460mm -
Front 1045mm -
PR4 SM – S Rear short 405mm -
Brake pipes
Rear long 570mm -
Front 1210mm -
PR4 (2005)
Rear 620mm -
PR4 (2010 – Front 1210mm -
2013) Rear 856mm -
Front 1210mm -
PR4 (2014 –
Front EXTREME 1220mm -
2015)
Rear 856mm -
Front brake pumps

PR4 (2001 - 2005) AJP (black) -

Oil level display Front eyepiece -
Pump repair kit Ø 11mm piston -
Retention of the piston in the pump Without elastic ring -
Brake lever Black, without impeller -
AJP (Ø12mm, front eyepiece,

PR4 (2005 - 2011) – PR3 (2007-2011) short cover)
-

Retention of the piston in the pump Unbridled / with elastic ring -
Cover/diaphragm repair kit Long -
Brake lever Black (w / adjuster pin impeller) -
PR3 (2012 - …) PR4 (2012) KAILING (Black) -

Retention of the piston in the pump With elastic ring -
Brake lever Black, without adjuster -
PR4 (2013) BRAKING (aluminum) -

Brake lever Short / polished, with adjuster -
PR4 (2014 - …) BRAKTEC (aluminum) -

Brake lever Short / polished, with adjuster -
Rear brake pumps
PR4 (2001 - 2005) AJP (without reservoir) -
Distance between fixing holes 40mm -
Piston diameter Ø 11mm -
Repair kit of the cover / diaphragm pump AJP 152.00.011C -
Racord screw M10x1x21 -

PR3 (2007 – 2012) / PR4 ( 2005 – 2012) AJP (w/ display, short cover) -
Piston diameter Ø 11 mm -
Repair kit of the cover / diaphragm pump AJP 159.00.040C -
BRAKING (w/ display,

PR3/PR4 (2013) triangular cover)
-

Piston diameter Ø 12,7mm -
Repair kit of the cover / diaphragm pump Short cover -
Diaphragm cover screws M4 -
st
Racord screw (1 version) M10x1.25x21 -
nd
Racord screw (2 version) M10x1x21 -
BRAKTEC (w/ display, short

PR3/PR4 (2014 – …) cover)
-
Distance between fixing holes 49mm

Piston diameter Ø 12,7mm -
Repair kit of the cover / diaphragm pump AJP -
Sealing washers 10x14x1,5 (copper) -
Front Mechanical M6x0,8 -
Stop light switches
Rear Hydraulic M10x1 -
ELECTRIC SYSTEM
Item Specification
Electrical system 12 Volts
Main fuse (PR3/PR4) 20A (yellow; plug type)
Fuse (PR3-MX normal version without light) 10A (red; plug type)
Fuse (PR3-MX version with simple light) 15A (blue; plug type)
Dashboard KOSO DB – 01R (10R=02.6134)

Display Blue display
Neutral indicator light Green led
Turn signals indicator light Green led
Maximum indicator light Blue led
Total trip counter Km / miles
Partial trip counter Km / miles

Trip counter calibration Front tire perimeter

17” wheel 1790mm
19” wheel 1950mm
21” wheel 2200mm
Speedometer sensor Passive type

Operating voltage 5V
Phase (+5V) Red wire (terminal 1)
Neutral (-5V) Black wire (terminal 2)
Sensor signal to the speedometer White wire (terminal 3)
Sensor Resistance (T1 – T3) 3,9 MΩ – 4,5 MΩ
Sensor Resistance (T2 – T3) 19,1 KΩ – 28,7 KΩ
Dimensions of the sensor Ø 12x46 mm
Cable length 1200 mm
Clearance between the sensor and the magnet +/- 1mm
Sensor fixing on caliper support Pin (hexagonal socket) M5x5
Magnet on the front brake disc Magnetic tablet Ø 6x6mm
Mounting position of the magnet With the "N" facing the speedometer sensor
Battery YTX5L-BS
Type Sealed (MF)
Battery capacity 12V, 4A
Battery electrolyte quantity 0,24Liters
Electrolyte package ECR – 0,24E
Specific electrolyte H2SO4 (sulfuric acid at 41%)
Specific weight of the electrolyte 1,32kg/C. (at 20oC)
Battery Maintenance Maintenance free
Battery dimensions (LxWxH) 112x70x105mm
Lights
Front headlight optics RINDER 310
Headlight Lamp 12V 35/35W BA20d
Minimum lamp 12V 4W BA9S
Homologated rear taillight (red LED) 12V 0,9W/0,6W
Rear taillight Extreme version (white LED) 12V 1,1W/0,2W
Turn signals lamps 12V 10W BA15S
Turn signals relay 12V 20W (10+10W) DC

Relay operating voltage 12,8V CC
Load applied 12V 2x10W (Max.3,4W)

Current consumption 12,8V 1,95A

Frequency 80Hz (+-10Hz)
10oC – 30oC (-20oC – 55oC)

Operating temperature 50ºF – 86ºF (-4ºF – 131ºF)
Starting time Lower than 1 second

Off time Lower than 1.5 seconds
Average lifetime 100 Hours
Horn Klaxon 12V DC

Operating voltage 12V (+/-2V)
Current consumption <1,5A
Sound intensity (dB) 100dB (+/-5dB) at 2 meters
Frequency 460Hz (+/-30Hz)
Durability 50.000 Cycles
Ignition system CDI (Capacitive Discharge Ignition)

CDI unit MD125 – 3B
Coil Ignition MGO3A // MGE3B (ZXF-130727)
Resistance of the primary ignition coil 3,5Ω - 4,5Ω
Secondary resistance without coil plug 3,0KΩ - 5,0KΩ
Secondary resistance with coil plug 8,0KΩ - 12,0KΩ
Spark plug cap NGK LB05F / VD05F / YB05F
Spark plug cap resistance 5KΩ
Ignition coil cable Ø7x470mm
Ignition spark plug (standard) LG D8TC
Ignition spark plug (equivalent) CHAMPION A8YC / NGK DR8ES / DPR8EA-9
Distance between the electrodes 0,6 – 0,7mm
Spark plug thread pitch M12x1.25
Spark plug torque 1,8Kgf.m (18N.m)
Pulse generator (pick-up) 100Ω - 150Ω
Phase of the pick-up Blue / white wire
Pick-up neutral Green / white wire
Distance between pick-up and the ridge on the

0,7mm (+/-)
wheel
CDI drive coil Black / red wire
Resistance exciter coil of the CDI 230Ω - 350Ω

Alternator 12V monophasic (ACG)

Alternator power 12V 120W (0,12Kw / 5000rpm)
Stator 8 Poles (12V 8C)

Connector on the motor stator Faston type 6-way female-port
Load line (wire color on the wiring harness
Yellow / Pink wire
connector 2009/2012)
Load line (on the wiring harness connector 2013) Yellow / Gray wire
Load coil resistance in the stator 1,0Ω (1,6 – 1,9Ω)
Resistance exciter coil of the CDI 315Ω (between the black / red wire and the negative)
Resistance pick-up pulse generator 150Ω (between blue / white and green / white)
Rectifier / current regulator Monophasic; half wave

Manufacturer's Code MT12V8 – Z05B (XFT1QO7 – 111126)
Model / manufacturer XF0510 (XIANFENG)
Connector for connection to wiring Sumitomo 6-way female-port
Charge coil line Yellow / pink wire
Charge line (output to the battery) red wire
Negative line rectifier Green wire
Current return line Black wire and green wire
Starter relay MQJ10 – ZSO1B (12V70A)

Solenoid resistance in the relay 3,5Ω - 4,0Ω
Starter relay connector Sumitomo-port 2-way pawls
Starter cable Length 550mm
Cable from the starter relay to the battery Length 250mm
Starter (MQ1351-CB 350W)

3
125/200 cm engine Z71BB11CB125D
3
240 cm engine Z237C10CB200 - 3 #E
CONNECTIONS OF THE STATOR CONNECTOR
Position Color of the wires Function Resistance
1 Pink Charge coil 0,6Ω - 1,2Ω

2 Black / Red CDI drive coil 250 Ω - 350Ω
3 Yellow Charge coil 0,6Ω - 1,2Ω
4 Green / red Neutral contact -

5 Green / white Neutral pick-up pulse generator 100 Ω - 150Ω

6 Blue / White Phase of the pick-up pulse generator 100 Ω - 150Ω
STATOR
Component Color of the wires Resistance Service limit

Charge coil Yellow / Pink 1,6Ω 1,2Ω - 1,9Ω
CDI drive coil Black / red and neutral 315Ω 230Ω - 350Ω
Pick-up pulse generator Blue / white and green / white 100 Ω - 150Ω 100Ω - 150Ω
LIGHTS CONNECTIONS
Position on the
Component Color of the wires
connector
Maximum lights Blue On the left
Medium lights White On the center
Headlight
Ground Black On the right
Minimum Lights Brown -
Night light White On the top
Rear taillight Stop light Blue In the middle
Ground Black On the bottom
TURN SIGNALS CONNECTIONS
Component Turn signals color wires Wiring harness color wires

Right Red / Purple Green
Front turn
Left Yellow / Green White / Black
signals
Ground Brown Black
Right Yellow / Green Green
Rear turn signals Left Red / Purple White / Black
Ground Brown Black
TIGHTENING TORQUES
STANDARD
Torque Torque
Screw type N.m. Screw type N.m.
(kgf.m) (kgf.m)
3mm hex head screw and nut 2 (0,2) 3mm screw 2 (0,2)

8mm hex head screw and nut 22 (2,2) 6mm screw with phalange (8 mm 9 (0,9)
head)
10mm hex head screw and nut 34 (3,5) 6mm screw with phalange (8mm 12 (1,2)
head) and nut
12mm hex head screw and nut 54 (5,5) 8mm screw with phalange and nut 26 (2,7)
10mm screw with phalange and nut 39 (4,0) 12mm screw with phalange and nut 50 (5,0)
Torque specifications listed below are important for the screws. The remaining must be tightened to
the clamp values listed above.
Notes:
1. Applying a locking agent to the screw - LOCTITE 240 (medium resistance)
2. Apply oil to the thread and the surface of the phalange.
3. Apply clean engine oil to the O-ring.
4. Grease the thread and the surface of the phalange.
Note:
Reading the dimensions of the screws:
M6 – Screw with metric thread M6;
M6x16 – Screw with metric thread M6 and 16mm length;
M6x16 (x1) - Screw with metric thread M6, 16mm length and 1mm pitch
Not all the screws have all the specified measures. Only a few of them were specified to facilitate
identification.
ENGINE
Dimensions Torque
Item QTY Note
(mm) N.m (kgf.m)
Maintenance:
Oil filter cover / drain crankcase oil 1 M36 15 (1,5) -
Rotor cover screws / oil filter 2 M5 5 (0,5) -
Synchronization hole cover 1 M14 6 (0,6) 4
Cover of the Crankshaft flywheel screw 1 M28 8 (0,8) 4
Hole valve cover 4 M36 15 (1,5) 3
Locknut adjustment of the valves (IN/EX) 2 M6 14 (1,4) -
Spark plug 1 M12 18 (1,8) -
Lubrication:
Screws to fix the oil pump 2 M6 12 (1,2) -
Cover screws of the pump rotors 2 M4 3 (0,3) -
Pump sprocket cover screws (240) 2 M5 5 (0,5) -

Oil pipe banjo on the right crankcase (200 1st 1 M8x1 26 (2,7) -
version)
Oil pipe banjo on the right crankcase (200/240) 1 M10x1,25 34 (3,5) -
1 M8x1 26 (2,7) -
Racord oil pipe on the clutch cover
1 M10x1,25 34 (3,5) -
Banjos Screws of the oil radiator tubes (200/240) 2 M12x1,25 34 (3,5) -
Cylinder Head / Valves:
Blind nuts of the studs cylinder / head 4 M8 29 (3.0) -
Screws cylinder head cover 4 M6 12 (1,2) -
Camshaft cover screws 2 M6 12 (1,2) -
Screw of the sprocket of the valve mechanism 2 M6 12 (1,2) -
Screw of the valve mechanism chamber 1 M6 10 (1,0) -
Screws of the chain tensioner valve mechanism 2 M6 12 (1,2) -
Pivot screw of the tensor guide in the valve 1 M8 10 (1,0) -
mechanism
Adjustment nuts of the valves rocker arms 4 M6 15 (1,5) -
Retaining plate screw of the valves rocker arms 1 M6 12 (1,2) -
shaft
Drive pinion:
Drive pinion screw cover 2 M6 12 (1,2) -
Plate bolt to brake the drive pinion 2 M6x12 10 (1,0) -
Cylinder / Piston:
Cylinder stud 4 M8 19 (1,8) 2
Screw of the valve mechanism chamber 1 M6 10 (1,0) 2
Clutch:
Embraiagem
Clutch cover screws 11 M6 12 (1,2) 1
Changes drum fixer screw 1 M6 12 (1,2) 1
Screw of the positioner cam drum 1 M6 24 (2,4) -
Clutch nut onto the primary shaft 1 M16x1 93 (9,5) 1
Rotor / centrifugal filter nut on the crankshaft 1 M16x1 83 (8,5) 2
Screws clutch pressure table 4 M6 12 (1,2) -
Fixing screws of the starter motor 2 M6 12 (1,2) -
Right crankcase screws 1 M6 12 (1,2) -
Alternator / Flywheel:
Flywheel cover screws 8 M6 12 (1,2) 1
Screws of the left crankcase 10 M6 12 (1,2) 1
1 M8x1,25 26 – 32 1
Magnetic flywheel screw (2,6 – 3,2)
1 M10x1 39 (4,0) 1

Stator screws 3 M6 10 (1,0) 1

Pulse generator screws 2 M5 5 (0,5) 1
Screw fixing the alternator cables 1 M6 12 (1,2) 1
The gear lever screw 1 M6 12 (1,2) 1
Screws of the starter clutch on the flywheel 6 M10 39 (4,0) 1
Crankshaft / Crankshaft shaft:
Bolt of the timing chain cover plate (on the left 1 M6 10 (1,0) 1
crankcase)
Notes:
(1) Pay attention to the correct position of the screws of different lengths in the left crankcase
assembly, the valve cover, the cylinder head, the clutch covers and the engine flywheel.
(2) This pin should never be removed from the engine, otherwise the shift selector can be damaged,
forcing the complete engine disassembly, to repair the problems inadvertently caused if this pin
spring of the shift selector is removed from the crankcase.
FRAME
Dimensions Torque
Item QTY Note
(mm) N.m (kgf.m)
Frame beams / Exhaust system:
Top fixing screw of the beams 8 M6x20 12 (1,2) -
Lower fixing screw of the beams 2 M10x40 39 (4,0) -
Screw securing the exhaust pipe 1 M8x20 32 (3,3) -
Screws fixing the exhaust protection 2 M6x8 8 (0,8) -
1 M6 w/ tab 12 (1,2) -
Exhaust manifold nut
1 M8 w/ tab 26 (2,7) -
1 M6x35 10 (1,0) -
Exhaust manifold studs
1 M8x30 22 (2,2) -
Crankcase protection screws 3 M6x20 12 (1,2) -

Screw strengthen the framework 2 M8X50 c/aba 32 (3,3) -
Screw strengthening the frame to the beams 1 M8x30 c/aba 32 (3,3) -
Maintenance:
Fixing nut of the brake lever adjustment 1 M6 6 (0,6) -
Screw of the side stand pivot 1 M12x30 39 (4,0) -
Nut of the side stand pivot 1 M12 39 (4,0) 4
Head of the front wheel spokes 32/36 3,5 3,8 (0,38) -
Head of the rear wheel spokes 32/36 4 5 (0,5) -
Screw of the inlet nozzle 2 M6x20/25 12 (1,2) -

Air filter fixing screw 1 M6x90 12 (1,2) -

Gasoline Pump fixing screws 2 M6x20 12 (1,2) -
Engine Removal / Installation:
Fixing bolt of the footrest bracket 2 M10 42 (4,3) -
Auxiliary fixing screw of footrest bracket 2 M6 12 (1,2) -
Front engine fixing bolts 2 M10 42 (4,3) -
Front bolts of the engine to the frame 4 M8 26 (2,7) -
Screws of the rear engine support 2 M10 42 (4,3) -
Front Wheel / Suspension / Steering:
Fixing bolts of the steering wheel clamps to triple 2 M10x50 39 (4,0) -
clamps
Steering wheel fixing screws 4 M8x35 26 (2,7) -
Nut of the steering column 1 M28 (x1) 98 (10,0) -
Adjusting nut of the steering column (aluminum) 1 M30 (x1) 98 (10,0) -
Screws fixing the upper triple clamp (stainless 4 M8x20 32 (3,3) -
steel)
Screws fixing the lower triple clamp (stainless M8x20 13 (1,3)
4 3
steel)
Front wheel shaft (aluminum) 25 1 M20 (x1,5) 74 (7,5) -

Fixing screw of the front wheel shaft 4 M6 w/ tab 12 (1,2) -
Screws of the front brake disc 6 M6x16 12 (1,2) -
Front axle fixing screws 4 M6x30 w/tab 12 (1,2) -
Rear wheel / suspension:
Shaft nut of the rear wheel 1 M14 (x1,5) 93 (9,5) -
Sprocket Screws 6 M8 32 (3,3) -
Disc bolts of the rear brake 6 M6 12 (1,2) -
Screw of the rear brake hose guide 1 M6 12 (1,2) -
Pivot nut of the swing arm 1 M14 (x1,5) 88 (9,0) -
Upper damper fixing bolt 1 M10 44 (4,5) -
Lower damper fixing bolt 1 M10 44 (4,5) -
Screw / nut of the connecting rod in the frame 1 M10 44 (4,5) -
Screw / nut of the connecting rod to the frame / 1 M12 54 (5,5) -
arm
Screw / nut of the connecting rod to the arm 1 M12 54 (5,5) -
Upper arm protection screw 1 M6x12 12 (1,2) -
Lower arm protection screw 1 M6x12 12 (1,2) -
Chain guide bolts 2 M6 12 (1,2) -
Chain guide bracket screws 2 M6 12 (1,2) -

Brake system:
Support screws of the front caliper 2 M8x35 26 (2,7) 1
Clamp screws of the front pump 2 M6x20 6 (0,6) -
Nut pivot bolt of the front brake lever 1 M6 12 (1,2) -
Stud nut adjustment of the brake lever 1 M6 12 (1,2) -
Front brake pump cover screws 2 M4x12 1,5 (0,15) -
Screws of the front brake oil pipe banjo 2 M10x21 (x1) 29 (3,0) -
Stop switch of the front brake (mechanic) 1 M6 (x0,7) 0,5 (0,05) 4
Front / rear purging brake calipers screw 2 M8 14 (1,4) -
Retention stud of the front caliper pads 1 M10 14 (1,4) -
Guide pin (A) of the front caliper bracket 1 M8 26 (2,7) -
Guide pin nut (A) of the front caliper bracket 1 M8 26 (2,7) -
Guide pin (B) of the front caliper bracket 1 M8 26 (2,7) -
Rear brake pump cover screws 2 M4x12 1,5 (0,15) -
Rear brake pump fixing screws 2 M6X20 10 (1,0) -
Nut of the brake pedal kneecap 1 M8 20 (2,0) -
Stud nut pitch of the rear pump 1 M8 20 (2,0) -
Nut pivot bolt of the rear brake pedal 1 M8 20 (2,0) -
Stud retention of the rear caliper pads 1 M10 20 (2,0) -
Guide pin (A) of the rear brake caliper 1 M8 26 (2,7) -
Guide pin (B) of the rear brake caliper 1 M8 26 (2,7) -
Stop switch of the rear brake (hydraulic) 1 M10 (x1) 14 (1,4) -
Banjo bolt rear brake tube 1 M10x21 (x1) 14 (1,4) -
Notes:
(3) In SACHS and MARZOCCHI 48mm forks, carefully tighten the lower flange bolts with the
specified torque value - 13 Nm (1.3 kgf.m) to avoid damage roundness of the outer tube of the fork,
which would cause the malfunction of the front bike suspension.
(4) The stop switch front brake is plastic, so their tightness should be done carefully applying the
maximum of 0.5 Nm (0.05 kgf.m).

LUBRICATION POINTS AND SEALING

ENGINE
Lubricating
Location Observations
Material
Inner surface of the cylinder
Outer surface of the piston
Piston rings
Timing chain
Rocker arm shaft (rocker arm contact surface)
Shaft of the auxiliary rocker arm (auxiliary rocker arm
contact surface)
Engine oil –
Clutch Disc
Shaft of the gearshift lever fork
Transmission gears
Rotors of the oil pump
All the contact surfaces of the bearings
All the O-ring the contact surfaces
All the sealing’s
Piston pin
Slot of the fork gear M3, M4, C5 on the drum
Hole of the connecting rod pin
Lobes of the camshaft Molybdenum disulfide
Friction surface of the rocker arms oil (mixture of engine
–
oil ½ and ½ mass of
Friction surface and contact area of the adjusting screw
molybdenum disulfide)
Valve guide friction surface
Valve stem friction surface
Outer surface of the outer guide clutch
Bearing surface of the transmission gear
Timing chain tensioner plate screw
Valve mechanism sprocket bolt on the camshaft
Screw thread of the gear lever cam
Loctite 270 –
Stator fixing thread
Alternator and wires holder fixing bolt
Threads of the screws / nuts of the frame connecting rod

FRAME
Lubricating
Location Observations
Material
Slide surface of the clutch cable adjuster
Slide surface of the accelerator cable adjuster
Cable slide slot at the throttle grip stop
Steering column bearings
Dust seal bearing of the steering column
Pivot bushing and brake pedal kneecap
Contact area of needle roller bearings, plain bearings and Multiuse grease Apply mass 5g
seals of the frame
Slide surface of theconnecting
side standrod
Slide surface of the brake pedal
Needle bearing swing arm and sealants
Rear shock absorber kneecaps
Clutch lever pivot
All oil seals
Surface of the fork seals Oil fork –
Brake pumps
Seals of the brake calipers DOT 4 brake fluid –
Pistons and cylinders of brake calipers
Pistons boxes in the brake pumps
Between the front brake pump and the brake lever adjustment
screw
Slide surface of the brake lever pin
Between the rear brake pump and the brake pedal adjustment Silicone grease –
screw
Sliding area in the holes of the support pins (guides) in
support of the brake calipers
Contact adhesive
Inside of the steering wheel rubber grips –
Cemedine # 540
Thread of the chain guide fixing screws
Average strength of
Thread of the fixing screws on the rear brake tube guides –
fixing agent
Thread of the rear brake pump fixing screws
In the drive chain Chain lubricant –
spray
In all electrical switches Electrical contacts
–
In all wiring connectors of electrical components spray
Battery terminals
Battery terminals surfaces –
protector spray

Chapter 2 – Frame / Panels / Exhaust
SERVICE INFORMATION 2–1 REAR FENDER 2–4
TROUBLESHOOTING 2–1 MUD GARD 2–4
FRONT HEADLIGHT 2–1 CRANKCASE PROTECTION 2–5
FRONT FENDER 2–2 EXHAUST SYSTEM 2–5
SIDE COVERS 2–2 FRAME BEAMS 2–8
FRONT GRID 2–3 FRAME 2 – 11
SEAT 2–3
SERVICE INFORMATION TROUBLESHOOTING

! DANGER ! Excessive exhaust noise:
Can result in serious burns if the exhaust  Broken exhaust system;
system does not cool before the  Leakage in the exhaust system.
components are removed or handled.
Low performance:
! DANGER !
 Deformed exhaust system;
 Leakage in the exhaust system;
AWAY FROM CHILDREN.  Clogged muffler.
Work in a well-ventilated area. Smoking, open FRONT HEADLIGHT

flames or sparks in the work area or where
the fuel is stored can cause a fire or REMOVAL:
explosion.
Remove the front brake tube with the
This section covers the removal and speedometer sensor cable out of the tab on
installation of the frame panels, structural the left of the front headlight.
components and exhaust system.
NOTE: Make sure exhaust tube and muffler

are not in contact with any other component of
the motorcycle, such as the fuel tank, the rear
brake pipe, the stop switch cable or the
carburetor tub breathing tube.
Loosen the rubber clamps on the fork tubes,

detach the terminal connections in the
Service manual AJP PR3/PR4 2-1

headlight and turn signals, and remove the

front headlight;
Remove the fender.
INSTALLATION INSTALLATION
Installation is in the reverse order of removal. Installation is in the reverse order of removal.
Tighten the screws.
Make the connections of the headlight lamp
and front turn signals according to the NOTE: Check the tightening of the screws
following displayed image; holding the front fender to the lower triple
clamp, before assembling the front fender
again.
SIDE COVERS
REMOVAL
Remove the screws and washers (1).
Remove the side cover (2).
FRONT FENDER
REMOVAL
Remove the screws and washers (1).

INSTALATION SEAT
Installation is in the reverse order of removal.
REMOVAL
FRONT GRID Loosen the screw (1) without losing the nylon
bushing underneath the seat base.
REMOVAL
Remove the side covers (page 2-2).
Remove the turn signal relay on the left front
grid (if applicable).
Pull the seat back towards the fender to

release it.
Remove the screws (1).
Remove the front grids (2). INSTALLATION
Check if the seat hook (3) is aligned with the
frame plate (2).
Check if the seat hole (3) is aligned with the
frame pin (2).
INSTALLATION
Be careful when installing new front grids, not
the break in the bend zone.
Tighten the screws with the M6 nuts.

Push the seat down and forward.

Tighten the screw (1) without much grip to
avoid damaging the seat cover.
REAR FENDER
REMOVAL
Remove the seat (page 2-3).
Remove the screws (1) existing on both sides
of the rear fender (2) in the tank.
Pull the fender towards the rear to release it.
INSTALLATION
Fit electrical connectors and check the
operation of the turn signals and tail light.
NOTE: Always use screws with the correct

length (M6x12) not to damage the fuel tank. It
Cut the clamps and disconnect the connectors should not be exceeded the specified torque
of the turn signals and tail light (1). when tightening the side covers of the fender
in the tank or the shock absorber flap /
protection.
Torque:
M6x12 screws: 1,0Kgf.m
MUD GARD
REMOVAL
Remove the screws (1).
The flap is immediately released.
Remove the screws (1) and the plate (2).

NOTE: If the PR4 EXTREME this protection is

different, as shown in following figure,
although the clamping points are the same,
the difference lies only in the existing rubber
support in the back and fit within the cradle
tube, and that is, to disassemble this
protection has to pull forward to remove it.
INSTALLATION
Installation is in the reverse order of removal. INSTALLATION
NOTE: Use screws with the correct length Installation is in the reverse order of removal.
(M6x12) not to damage the tank when you Note that in the case of PR4 EXTREME first
press the shock absorber flap / protection. rubber should be fitted within the support
cradle and thereafter replacing the screws
and tighten them.
CRANKCASE PROTECTION
REMOVAL EXHAUST SYSTEM
Remove the screws (1). General view of the exhaust
Remove the crankcase protection (2).
NOTE: For motorcycles equipped with

catalytic exhaust pipe, should never use
leaded petrol to avoid damaging the catalyst.

EXHAUST TUBE AND MUFFLER
REMOVAL
Loosen the clamp (1) that connects the
muffler to the exhaust tube;
Remove the screws / fixing nuts of the flange

on the exhaust tube;
Pull the curve (3) toward the front until you
exit the exhaust chamber and pass the flange
out of frame tube to be able to remove the
tube;
Remove the screw and nut (1) tightening the
muffler in the rear section behind the right
cover / rear fender (be careful with the
washer);
INSPECTION
Check for damage to the flange of the tube
and sealing gasket.
Remove muffler(2) by pulling it toward the If necessary, straighten the flange of the
rear to free it from the exhaust tube; curve, to ensure a perfect seal on the exhaust
Remove the retaining screw (1) of the exhaust manifold.
tube in the right beam; Make sure the terminal of the muffler is
damaged (melted or broken). Inspect the
rivets, the connection between muffler and
tube, the clamp and the muffler’s bushing
holder.

Replace any component of the exhaust Then the fixing screw of the curve on the right
system that is damaged. frame beam;
MX EXHAUST MUFFLER
Always tighten first the tube nuts in the

cylinder head, and then the screw to fix the
NOTE: The existing muffler fiber within the curve to the right beam.
exhaust tip must be replaced at regular Install the exhaust muffler.
intervals (every 3,000 km). In the end, put the engine running and check
Procedure to replace the ceramic fiber in for leaks in the exhaust system after
the MX exhaust muffler (see Chapter 3 - installation. Correct if necessary.
Maintenance, page 3-18)
NOTE: Make sure the exhaust tube and tip
ASSEMBLY: are not in contact with any other component of
The assembly of the exhaust system the motorcycle, such as the fuel tank, the rear
components should be performed in reverse brake pipe, the stop switch cable or the
order of removal. carburetor tub breathing tube.
Always use a new gasket to ensure a perfect
seal on the exhaust tube.
When setting the exhaust system, first point Torque:
the screws on the flange of the cylinder head; M8 nut on the exhaust tube flange: 20 Nm
(2.0 kgf.m)
M8 screw in tube flange: 18 Nm (2.0 kgf.m)

Junction clamp of the exhaust muffler to

the tube: 12 Nm (1.2, kgf.m)
Muffler fixing screw: 12 N.m (1,2Kgf.m)
FRAME BEAMS
REPLACEMENT
If necessary replace any frame beam, put the
motorcycleresting on a bench / appropriate
support stand so that the two wheels rest
against the ground.
LEFT BEAM
Remove the air filter box with the intake pipe

in rubber included (2);
Release the fuel supply (3) in the fuel filter;
REMOVAL:
Remove the seat and side covers of the front
and rear;
Remove the air filter (1);
Release the return pipe in the flange of the

fuel tank;
Remove the exhaust muffler;
If so, loose the clamp fixing the motor stator
cables to the left beam,
Remove the shock absorber reservoir holder
(1) (if it exists);

key machined in reduced outer diameter

21.5mm);
Remove the screw fixing the bottom of the
beam to the frame (with a Allen key of 8mm);
Remove the swing arm shaft nut (with 22mm
key);
Disconnect the connectors of the taillight /

rear spoiler and turn signals above the fuel
tank;
Remove the whole of the rear section with
tank and fender included;
Remove the shift lever (2) and the sprocket
cover (3);
Separate the left beam of the frame;
Remove the foot rest holder/ side stand.
INSTALLATION:
Remove the four screws holding the upper
beam to the frame, (we recommend the use of Assemble the left foot rest/side stand holder in
a ratchet ¼ "with a 10mm appropriate box key the new beam;
to the existing limited space, to loosen or
tighten correctly the four 6mm self-locking
nuts by the inside of the beam);
Remove the frame reinforcement screw in the
left beam (with 13mm box key machined in
reduced outer diameter 17.5mm);
Remove the M10 nut of the screw of the
upper shock absorber fixation (with 17mm box

RIGHT BEAM
Install the new left beam on the frame,

properly aligning the various holes of the
fixing points and temporarily tighten all the
screws until you get full seating of the beam in
the frame;
NOTE: If necessary, use only the rubber
hammer, or nylon, to adjust the fit of the
aluminum beam on the frame.
REMOVAL:
Tighten the motor shaft / swing arm nut and
all the beam fixing screws to the frame with Remove the seat and side covers of the front
the specified torque. and rear;
Remove the air filter housing with the rubber
Proceed with the installation by following the intake pipe included;
procedures in reverse order of removal.
Release the fuel supply tube in the gas filter
and the return pipe in the fuel tank;
Tightening torques of the frame beams:
Remove the exhaust muffler and remove the
Upper attachment (6mm): 12 N.m
screw in the fixing curve;
(1,2Kgf.m)
Disconnect the connectors of the taillight /
Lower attachment (10mm): 39 N.m
spoiler and rear turn signals;
(4,0Kgf.m)
Remove the whole of the rear section with
Frame Reinforcement (8mm): 32 N.m
tank and fender included;
(3,3Kgf.m)
Remove the four screws holding the upper
Shock absorber / rear (10mm): 39 N.m
right beam to the frame, (we recommend the
(4,0Kgf.m)
use of a ratchet ¼ "with a 10mm appropriate
Motor shaft / swing arm (14mm): 88 N.m box key to the existing limited space, to
(9,0Kgf.m) loosen or tighten correctly the four 6mm self-
locking nuts by the inside of the beam);
Remove the frame reinforcement screw in the
right beam (with 13MM box key machined in
reduced outer diameter 17.5mm);
Remove the M10 nut of the screw of the
upper shock absorber fixation (with 17mm box
key machined in reduced outer diameter
Service manual AJP PR3/PR4 2 - 10

21.5mm) and remove the screw together with FRAME

the two spacer bushings;
Replacement
If it’s necessary to replace the steel frame,
remove the crankcase protection and put the
motorcycle resting on a bench / appropriate
support stand so that the two motorcycle
wheels rest against the ground.
NOTE:
Before disassembling the components, can be
beneficial to take note or photos of the
position of the various components, especially
electric cables and wires, electric wiring, as
well as the routing of fuel piping, for later
Remove the screw fixing the bottom of the reference in a manner that ensures the
right beam to the frame (with a Allen key of assembly of all the pieces in the correct
8mm); position to ensure the a safely functioning of
the motorcycle.
Remove the swing arm shaft nut (with 22mm
box key) and enter a came up the left side to REMOVAL:
extract the engine shaft / swing arm;
Perform the steps described above for the
Release the rear brake pump on the beam; replacement of the beams.
Release the kneecap, and remove the brake Release the rubber clamps on front forks,
pedal; disconnect the terminals of the headlight and
Separate the right beam of the frame; turn signals connections and remove the
headlight.
Remove the right skate holder.
Cut the plastic clamps on the right side of the
handlebar and release the switch cable /
INSTALLATION: connecting wires in front of the brake pump;
Install the new right beam on the frame, Loosen the 3P and 6P connectors of the lights
properly aligning the various holes of the switch, the 5P connector of the ignition switch,
fixing points, and temporarily tighten all the the 4P start button and kill switch connector,
screws until you get full seating of the beam in 2P front stop switch connector (on models
the frame; equipped with new brake pump);
Disconnect the connectors of the various
NOTE: If necessary, use only the rubber electrical components, and remove the
hammer, or nylon, to adjust the fit of the electrical wiring;
aluminum beam on the frame.
Enter the swing arm / motor shaft with the
washer through the hole of the right beam.
Tighten the motor shaft / swing arm and all
the beam fixing screws to the frame with the
specified torque, as for the left beam.
Proceed with the installation by following the

procedures in reverse order of removal.

Remove the CDI; Remove the battery holder;
Remove the rectifier / current regulator and Release the spark plug cable and the cable of
the turn signals relay (if it exists); the starter;
Remove the battery; Remove the frame reinforcement with the

ignition coil, the petrol station and the horn;

Remove the starter relay; Release the vacuum tube in the intake
Remove the front grids; manifold of the air intake;
Release the oil cooler with the included oil

lines (in models equipped with engine 200 or
240 cm3);
Remove the intake manifold;

Remove the engine;
Front suspension removal

Remove the nut of the steering column below
the handlebar (use a 32mm special key,
downgraded to a thickness of 9.5 mm in the
case of forks SACHS or MARZOCCHI 48mm)
and untighten the four screws at the top of the
triple clamps;
Remove the carburetor;

Remove the swing arm assembly with the

damper, the chain, the rear wheel and the
rear brake installed;
Remove the frame beams, with the side
stand, the skates and the respective holders;
INSPECTION
Check all the disassembled components, and
replace any part that is damaged;
INSTALLATION
Use a nylon hammer to give a few taps on the
For the new frame
underside of the table and pull the handlebar
In first place, install the tracks / boxes bearing
up to separate the table off the sheaths on the
(tapered) on the steering column;
steering column tube;
Install the fork and front wheel;
Loosen the steering column adjustment nut, Install the nylon roller to the chain in the rear
and remove all the fork assembly with the engine support, if it was removed;
handlebar, fenders and front wheel off the Fit the engine in the motorcycle frame (the
motorcycle frame; engine can be installed in the frame already
Remove steering stem bearings. with the oil tubes pre-tightened);
Place the engine front brackets in the correct
Rear suspension and swing arm removal position (with the long edge facing up), and
Release the connector of the hydraulic switch insert the screws with the distance bushings
back stop and the brake pump on the right between the right bracket and the engine;
beam;
Remove the connection screw of the
suspension rods, remove the shock absorber
fixing screw to the beams with the spacer
bushings;
Remove the shock absorber;
Tighten the oil cooler tubes (in the case of

engine 200 or 240cm3);

Tighten the horn and the fuel pump in the

same fixing screw;
Install the frame reinforcement with the

ignition coil and fuel pump;
Install the oil cooler, having regard to the

mounting position of the spacer bushings and
fixing screws (in the case of motor 240cc) as
shown in the following image;
Fit the beams and tighten them in the various

attachment points as described on the beam
installation section;
Tighten the banjos of oil tubes carefully not to

damage the radiator;
Make sure that the oil cooler is not in contact
with the cylinder head;

Install the set of the swing arm with the wheel,

the chain and the rear brake, as the reverse of
disassembly;
Connect the vacuum tube and output to the

petrol pump in the correct position;
Continue the installation of the remaining

components in the reverse order of removal;
Assemble the rear section with the tank and
fenders included;
Connect the fuel hoses and electrical
connectors;
Fit the carburetor;

Assemble the air filter box already with the
rubber intake tube installed;
Then mount the rear suspension connecting
rod on the new frame;
! DANGER !
After perform all assembly operations,
perform a static and dynamic test to check
the perfect functioning of all motorcycle
systems.

Chapter 3 – Maintenance
SERVICE INFORMATION 3–1 DRIVE CHAIN 3 – 20

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE 3–2 SUSPENSION 3 – 23
MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS FOR
3–5 STEERING STEM BEARINGS 3 – 25
RACING
OIL AND ENGINE OIL FILTER 3–6 BOLTS AND NUTS 3 – 25
OIL COOLER AND CENTRIFUGAL
3–8 WHEELS / TYRES 3 – 25
OIL FILTER
ENGINE BREATHER 3–9 BRAKE SYSTEM 3 – 28
AIR FILTER 3–9 SIDE STAND 3 – 33
FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM 3 – 12 EXHAUST SYSTEM 3 – 33
THROTTLE CABLE 3 – 14 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 3 – 37
CARBURATOR 3 – 15 LAMPS REPLACEMENT 3 – 39
CLUTCH CABLE 3 – 15 HEADLIGHT RANGE 3 – 41
SPARK PLUG 3 – 16 DIGITAL SPEEDOMETER 3 – 42
VALVE CLEARANCE 3 – 17 MOTORCYCLE CLEANING 3 – 42
SERVICE INFORMATION - Keep children and pets at a distance.

PRECAUTIONS TO BE TAKEN BEFORE ! DANGER !
EACH MAINTENANCE Gasoline is extremely flammable and
Carbon monoxide explosive under certain conditions. KEEP IT
AWAY FROM CHILDREN.
If the engine has to run to carry out any
operation, make sure the space is ventilated. Components with high temperatures
Do not run the engine in an enclosed space.
! DANGER !
! DANGER ! The engine and exhaust system are hot when
The exhaust gases contain carbon monoxide, the engine is running and maintains this high
a toxic gas which may lead to poisoning and temperature for some time after the engine
can cause death. stop. Use insulated gloves or wait for the
engine to cool down before handling the
Run the engine preferably outdoors. If not engine or exhaust system.
possible, do it in a space with a ventilation
system connected to the exhaust system. Used engine oil
Fuel Follow the laws in force in your country for
collecting and treatment of waste oil. Never
Fuel is highly flammable and poisonous. dump used oil into the sewer or ground.
Extreme caution should be used when The oil is extremely toxic and contaminates
handling fuel. water and soils.
- Do not fill the motorcycle next to flames or
lighted cigarettes; ! DANGER !
- Always stop the engine before refueling; The engine oil may cause skin cancer if left in
- Be careful not to spill fuel to the engine or contact with the skin repeatedly for a long
exhaust pipe while the engine is hot; period of time. Usually it is not necessary to
- Clean quickly spilled fuel; handle used oil every day, but it is
- If the fuel is swallowed or contact with eyes, recommended to wash hands thoroughly with
seek medical attention immediately; soap and water after handling used motor oil.
KEEP USED OIL AWAY FROM CHILDREN.

Brake powder MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

Never use compressed air or a dry brush to A description of the various maintenance
clean the brakes. operations required for the proper functioning
! DANGER ! of the motorcycle and the respective periods
Asbestos fibers, if inhaled, can cause is presented next.
respiratory diseases or cancer. ! WARNING !
Brake fluid An intensive motorcycle driving, with high
revs, tracks with mud or dust, requires
Follow the guidelines of your country for cleaning and maintenance much more
collecting and treatment of waste fluid. Never frequent than those recommended in order to
dump into the sewer or ground. ensure the smooth running of the motorcycle.
! WARNING ! AFTER THE FIRST 1.000km – ENGINE
If the brake fluid is spilled on painted, plastic BREAK IN
or rubber parts can damage them. If a spill
occurs, immediately flush with water. Put a  Replace the engine oil;
cover on top of these painted pieces to protect  Clean the engine oil filter;
them when handling the brake circuit. KEEP  Clean the air filter. Wash and wet it in oil;
THE BRAKE FLUID AWAY FROM  Inspect the fuel filter;
CHILDREN.  Check the spark plug;
 Check, adjust and lubricate the secondary
MAINTENANCE RULES transmission system;
1. Use only components and lubricants  Check the valve clearance and adjust if
approved by AJP or their equivalents. necessary;
Components that do not meet the  Check brake pads and brake fluid level;
requirements of AJP can damage the  Check spoke tightness;
motorcycle.  Adjust and lubricate the throttle and the
2. Use only metric tools to perform clutch cable;
maintenance on the motorcycle. The  Check the slack in the steering;
incorrect use of tools or attachments could  Check the condition of the exhaust system;
damage the motorcycle.  Check the operation of lights, turn signals,
horn, speedometer and emergency switch.
3. Always use new O-rings, seals and gaskets
on assembly operations. MAINTENANCE OF 3.000km (OR 6
MONTHS)
4. When any part or component is attached
with several bolts (e.g. engine covers,  Check the spark plug and the spark plug
cylinder head, brake discs, sprocket, etc.) cap condition;
begin tightening the inner screw largest  Replace the engine oil;
diameter, followed by tightening the  Clean the engine oil filter;
opposite diagonal, cross or X, gradually  Clean the air filter. Wash and wet in oil;
increasing the torque to the specified value.  Clean the air filter box, and replace the
5. Clean the inside of the components with a sealing silicone if necessary;
solvent after disassembly for inspection  Replace the fuel filter;
and lubricate the friction surfaces before  Check, adjust and lubricate the secondary
proceeding to its assembly. transmission system;
 Check the valve clearance and adjust if
6. After installation, check that all parts are
necessary;
installed correctly and working.
 Check the supply system piping, lubrication
and oil cooler (only for engines 200 /
240cm3);

 Adjust and lubricate the throttle cable and  Lubricate the bearings of the connecting
the clutch cable; rods and the swing arm bearings on the
 Inspect the timing chain and check the rear suspension;
timing chain tensioner;  Check the value of the empty voltage and
 Check the brake pads and the brake fluid the load voltage;
level;  Check the condition of the exhaust system;
 Check the spoke tightness;  Check the condition and operation of the
 Check slack on the wheels; various components of the electrical
 Check the operation of the side stand; system;
 Check the steering operation;  Check the condition and operation of the
 Check the operation of the suspensions; ignition system and electric starter;
 Check the value of the battery empty  Check the tightness of bolts, nuts and
voltage and the load voltage; clamps of the attachments of the various
 Check the condition of the exhaust system; components.
 Check the condition and operation of the MAINTENANCE OF 9.000km (OR 18
various components of the electrical MONTHS)
system;
 Check the condition and operation of the  Check the spark plug and the spark plug
ignition system and electric starter; cap condition;
 Check the tightness of bolts, nuts and  Replace the engine oil;
clamps of the attachments of the various  Replace the engine oil filter;
components.  Clean the air filter. Wash and wet in oil;
 Clean the air filter box and replace the
MAINTENANCE OF 6.000km (OR 12
sealing silicone if necessary;
MONTHS)  Replace the fuel filter;
 Replace the spark plug;  Check, adjust and lubricate the secondary
 Replace the engine oil; transmission system;
 Replace the engine oil filter;  Check the valve clearance and adjust if
 Replace the air filter; necessary;
 Clean the air filter box, and replace the  Check the supply system piping, lubrication
sealing silicone if necessary; and oil cooler (only for engines 200 / 240
 Replace the fuel filter; cm3);
 Check, adjust and lubricate the secondary  Adjust and lubricate the throttle cable and
transmission system; the clutch cable;
 Check the valve clearance and adjust if  Inspect the timing chain and check the
necessary; timing chain tensioner;
 Check the supply system piping, lubrication  Check the brake pads and the brake fluid
and oil cooler (only for engines 200 / level;
240cm3);  Check the spoke tightness;
 Adjust and lubricate the throttle cable and  Check slack on the wheels;
the clutch cable;  Check the operation of the side stand;
 Inspect the timing chain and check the  Check the steering operation;
timing chain tensioner;  Check the operation of the suspensions;
 Check the brake pads and the brake fluid  Check the value of the battery empty
level; voltage and the load voltage;
 Check the spoke tightness;  Check the condition of the exhaust system;
 Check slack on the wheels;  Check the condition and operation of the
 Check the operation of the side stand; various components of the electrical
 Lubricate the steering column bearings; system;
 Check the condition and operation of the
ignition system and electric starter;

 Check the tightness of bolts, nuts and repeating the above-mentioned maintenance
clamps of the attachments of the various each every 3.000km, except for the
components. maintenance of the first 1.000km.
MAINTENANCE OF 12.000km (OR 24
MONTHS)
 Replace the spark plug;
 Replace the engine oil and the engine oil
filter;
 Clean the centrifugal oil filter rotor;
 Replace the air filter;
 Clean the air filter box and replace the
sealing silicone if necessary;
 Replace the fuel filter;
 Check, adjust and lubricate the secondary
transmission system;
 Check the valve clearance and adjust if
necessary;
 Check the supply system piping, lubrication
and oil cooler (only for engines 200 /
240cm3);
 Adjust and lubricate the throttle cable and
the clutch cable;
 Check the brake pads;
 Replace the brake fluid;
 Replace the timing chain;
 Check the spoke tightness;
 Check slack on the wheels;
 Check the operation of the side stand;
 Replace the oil from the fork;
 Lubricate the steering column bearings;
 Lubricate the bearings of the connecting
rods and the swing arm bearings on the
rear suspension;
 Check the value of the battery’s empty
voltage and the load voltage;
 Check the condition of the exhaust system;
various components of the electrical
system;
ignition system and electric starter;
 Check the tightness of bolts, nuts and
clamps of the attachments of the various
components.
Note: After reaching the 12000km the

maintenance should be performed again

MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS FOR RACING

! WARNING !
Participation in racings implies the immediate loss of warranty.
Check all items listed below before any racing.
The items listed below intended to be a guide for participation in racing.
Item Verifications Maintenance

Engine oil Oil level, leakages Add or replace
Fuel tank Damages, leakages Replace
Fuel pump Functioning, pressure Replace
Fuel piping Deterioration, damage or leakage Replace
Lever clearance, rear brake pedal
Adjust, replace or purge the
Brake system position, brake performance and pad
air in the brake circuit
wear
Tire pressure, wear and damage, spoke
Wheels / Tires Adjust, tighten or replace
tightness and tire fixer tightness
Clearance, lubrication. Attachment clip
Drive chain Adjust, tighten or replace
security. Maximum length: 112 links
Sprocket and pinion Wear and safe installation Tighten or replace
Tighten or replace the lock or
Seat Fixing and security
its fixing rivets
Clutch discs Proper operation and wear Replace
Air filter Contaminated, torn Clean or replace
Emergency engine switch Correct functioning Fix it or replace
Bolts, nuts Correct tightening Tighten
Valve clearance Correct clearance Adjust
Timing chain Excessive noise Replace
Tightness, correct temperature range, Adjust the electrode
Spark plug electrodes clearance, wiring and clearance;
damage Tighten or replace
Free handlebar rotation and tightness of
Steering column Adjust or tighten
the column nuts
Keep clean, free of dirt or
Smooth operation, oil leakages, sheaths
Front suspension dust;
condition and correct oil level
Adjust or replace
Smooth operation, oil leakage and
Rear suspension Adjust or replace
spring length (preload)
Swing arm bearings Smooth operation Lubricate or replace
Connecting rods bearings of the
Smooth operation Lubricate or replace
rear suspension
Smooth operation, damages, folds and
Cables Lubricate or replace
correct connection
Engine fixing bolts Tightness Tighten

OIL AND ENGINE OIL FILTER OIL CHANGE / OIL FILTER

! DANGER ! ! DANGER !
If the engine has to run to make some Waste motor oil may cause skin cancer if they
service, verify that the area is well ventilated. repeatedly get in contact with the skin for
Never put the engine running in an enclosed extended periods. It is recommended to wash
space. The exhaust gas contains carbon your hands with soap and water immediately
monoxide, which can cause loss of after having handled waste oil.
consciousness and may lead to death.
Note: Replace the engine oil with the engine
Recommendation: hot and to ensure a complete emptying of the
Use only 4 stroke engine oil SAE 20W 50 of oil, the motorcycle must be tilted to the left
good quality to ensure a high lifetime of the (supported on the side stand).
engine. Use only oils that meet or exceed the
requirements of SF or SG API classes. Put the engine running and let idle for 5
minutes;
Recommended oil type: Stop the engine and remove the cover to the
Eni/Agip i-Ride moto SAE 20W-50 oil filler.
Specifications: API SG JASO MA, MA2
Note: In the case of the model PR4
OIL LEVEL EXTREME remove first the crankcase
Checking the oil level protection (see Chapter 2 –
Frame/Panels/Exhaust).
Put the motorcycle in vertical position and
leveled to the ground; In this engine oil drainage and oil filter
Check the oil level on the glass in the lower removing are made by the same location. As
area of the right housing cover. will be shown below.
Remove the oil filter cover (1) together with

the spring and the filter on the bottom side of
the left crankcase area.
If the oil level is below the minimum (L):

 Fill with recommended oil to the
maximum level mark (H);
 Place the engine and let idling for three
minutes; Drain the engine oil into a suitable container,
 Stop the engine and check the oil level. to prevent spill on the floor.

Install the oil filter case and tighten with the

specified torque.
! DANGER !
Putting the oil filter in a wrong position can
lead to serious engine damage.
Tightening torque: 25N.m (2,5Kgf.m)

Clean the oil glass.
Introduce by the oil filler cap the correct
quantity of the recommended engine oil.
Thoroughly flush the oil filter in non-
flammable solvent or high flash point, until all Note: Use an appropriate funnel to put the oil
the accumulated waste is removed. into the engine by the plug hole on the right
To completely clean the filter, use crankcase cover.
compressed air.
Before installing the oil filter, inspect carefully
for damage and make sure the rubber seal is
in good condition.
OIL CAPACITY
1,0 Liters (125cc engine)
1,1 Liters (200 / 240cc engine)
Check the sealing ring on the oil cap is in
Assembly good condition; otherwise replace it with a
new O-ring.
Install the oil filter and the spring in the
correct position while keeping the rubber seal
faced to the engine inside housing as shown
in the following figure.

Start engine and check if there are no oil If the tubes or the oil cooler are damaged or
leaks. with irreparable leaks, they must be replaced
Stop the engine and re-inspect the engine oil immediately.
level (page 3-5).
If replacement is necessary it should be
OIL COOLER AND consulted the procedures in Chapter 4 –
CENTRIFUGAL OIL FILTER Lubrication System.
Oil cooler CENTRIFUGAL OIL FILTER
Inspect radiator and its oil lines about the The centrifugal filter (1) is located on the
existence of damage or leakage. crankshaft on the right side of the engine
near the oil pump. It should be cleaned
according to the recommendation on the
Maintenance Schedule or whenever you
need to replace the clutch plates.
Keep the radiator clean and unobstructed to

ensure proper cooling of the engine oil.
! DANGER ! For cleaning, inspection or even replacement
A clogged oil cooler with dirt or damaged may of the centrifugal oil filter, see chapter 4 –
cause the engine to overheat and may lead it Lubrication System.
to suffer serious damage.
Use a small screwdriver to straighten the fins
in the radiator honeycomb, if necessary.

ENGINE BREATHER
Inspect the engine breather hose (1) for
deterioration, damage or loose connection.
Separate the filter from the filter box;

Loosen the clamp of the intake tube in the
carburetor;
Ensure that the breather tube is not Remove the air filter housing with the rubber
excessively bent or cracked in the passage tube included;
through the motor support.
Replace the engine breather pipe whenever
is damaged.
AIR FILTER
! WARNING !
During the disassembly operations,
maintenance and assembly air filter, it is
essential to ensure that no dirt pass into the
throttle body and to do so cover the nozzle
orifice and blow with compressed air all the
components during the assembly.
Note: When the bike is washed, avoid direct Maintenance

pressure water jets directly to the air filter. Remove the metal bracket of the air filter.
After washing, use compressed air to dry the
bike components. Remove the air filter, clean
it and lubricate it.
Removal
Remove the seat (see Chapter 2 - Frame-
Panels-Exhaust);
Remove the fixing screw (1) and remove the
cover over the air filter, if it exists;
Wash the air filter with flammable solvent with

a high flash point, such as kerosene.

Twist, squeeze and dry the air filter with

compressed air.
To moisten or lubricate the air filter apply
approximately 30cl of clean engine oil to
sponge filters, inside a plastic bag or apply
suitable lubricant spray for air filters of
polyurethane foam.
! DANGER !
Never use gasoline or solvents with a low
flash point to clean the air filter. It could
explode or fire or the air filter of polyurethane
foam will be damaged.
Assemble the metal bracket inside air filter. Remove any existing silicone in the box / air
filter cover;
Wash / clean the inside of the air filter box;
Assembly
Apply a black silicone cord around the outer
fitting into the filter box cover;
AIR FILTER BOX

Each time the air filter is clean, also check if
the air filter box is in good condition.
The silicone sealing in the filter casing cover
should be replaced whenever dust indications
are observed inside. Assemble the filter housing on the respective
If the air filter box is damaged (deformed on cover and tighten the four screws without
the fitting profile with the cover), should be damaging;
replaced to avoid causing excessive and Finish the seal, lightly running a finger over
premature wear to the valves, cylinder and the remaining silicone around the outer
the engine piston ring. perimeter in the contact area of the box with
Removal the cover, to remove excessive silicone;
Remove the four screws, and disassemble
the air filter box;

Inspect the rubber tube, and replace if

damaged;
Note: Do not over tighten the clamps, as in

the case of the clamp to tighten the filter
housing may damage the same, as in the
case of tightening the carburetor may cause
the rubber tube to jump out of the carburetor
inlet fitting.
Insert the rubber tube into the filter box outlet Assemble the air filter in the correct position
with the respective clamps and tighten the on the box and tighten the fixing screw
clamp slightly; M6x70 with washer plate;
Install the filter housing and make sure the Install the cover over the filter (if applicable)
inlet pipe is properly fixed in the carburetor; before introducing the fixing screw.
Adjust the clamp position as shown in the
following image and tighten gently to avoid
damaging the rubber tube;

The fuel filter (1) is assembled between the

right frame beam and the carburetor, under
the seat.
! WARNING !
If the air filter is not installed properly, dust
and dirt can enter the engine and cause
premature wear on the piston, cylinder and
valves.
Tightening torque: 12N.m (1.2Kgf.m)
Note: If the bike is used regularly in areas of

high humidity or dusty, the procedures for It must be replaced whenever it is observed
cleaning the air filter and the respective box the existence of dirt on the inside, because
must be performed more frequently. the accumulation of any dirt can damage the
pump, restrict or block the flow of fuel
FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM causing loss of power and engine
malfunction.
Fuel
Fuel filler cap
The PR3/PR4 models only consume
unleaded gasoline with a minimum of 95 Frequently inspect the correct operation of
octanes. Never use leaded petrol to avoid the existing breather valve in the cap of the
destroy the catalyst and the exhaust system fuel tank.
of the motorcycle. The air shall pass in one direction only, from
outside to inside.
If the motorcycle remains immobilized or
Shaking the cap should be audible the ball
stored for more than a month, drain the vat
movement inside the breather valve.
float. Leave gasoline on the carburetor vat
without the motorcycle being used for long
periods of time, may cause obstruction of
jets, resulting in difficulties to put the engine
running or inadequate handling of the vehicle.
When the bike is washed, avoid direct
pressure water jets directly to the breather in
the cap of the fuel tank.
Fuel filter
The fuel filter is transparent, this allows to
see the presence of impurities inside. Always
replace the fuel filter at the intervals specified
in the Maintenance Schedule or more often if
necessary.

Do not allow dirt, mud or water remains ! DANGER !

accumulated in the fuel filler cap cavities If the fuel tank is damaged, it must be
because it can damage the breather in the replaced immediately. The use of the
fuel tank and cause malfunction of the fuel motorcycle with a damaged tank can cause
system to the engine. fuel leakage to the rear wheel or cause a fire.
Check the connections of the fuel lines to the
fuel tank: pipe for the fuel pump (1); return
pipe (2). Also check the links of the fuel lines
to the fuel pump: tube from the fuel tank; pipe
to the carburetor.
Improper installation may cause a
malfunction of the engine.
! WARNING !
When the bike is washed, avoid direct
pressure water jets directly to the breather in
the cap of the fuel tank.
Fuel tank
Check the condition of the fuel tank:
existence of damages, cracks. Check if the fuel lines are deteriorated,
Check if the fuel lines are deteriorated, damaged or leaking.
damaged or leaking. If necessary replace the tubes of the fuel
supply system, its dimensions can be found
in Chapter 1 – General Information /
Technical Specifications.
Fix the pipes with appropriate clamps. Check
that the clamps are properly placed and that
the tubes are well fixed.
Inspect the suction pipe inside the tank and

check if there is dirt that causes obstruction in
the fuel flow.
For fixing the fuel tank, be careful and always
use screws with the correct
dimensions/length in order to avoid damage
the tank when it is assembled in the rear
frame.
Specific screws type: oval head M6x12

! DANGER ! THROTTLE CABLE

Fuel tubes must be properly positioned to
ensure that they never touch the exhaust or For smooth operation, the cable and the
become pinched / crushed. inside of the throttle grip should be kept clean
This contact can cut the tubes and cause a and lubricated, so it should:
fuel leakage, which can lead to loss of  Check that the throttle grip rotates without
motorcycle control or cause a fire. restrictions to the fully open position with
engine stopped.
 Check that after release the throttle grip, it
FUEL PUMP automatically closes in any position of the
handlebar.
Fuel pump maintenance  Check if it doesn’t have any deterioration,
It is very important to ensure that during damage, bending on the throttle cable.
refueling operations do not pass into the fuel  Check that the clearance in the throttle
tank any impurities such as water or dirt / grip is 2-6 mm, as shown in the following
mud that may be accumulated near the figure.
thread of the filler cap.
If impurities reach the inside of the fuel pump,
will damage the membranes / valves,
damaging the fuel pump.
If the vacuum tube that connects the intake
manifold to the pump is damaged, punctured
or crushed, the fuel pump will not work and
thus makes it impossible the engine to work.
Adjustment
The adjustment is made on the throttle cable
adjuster.
Note: Replace any damaged parts before the
adjustment.
Slide the rubber dust cover (1) to access the
adjuster.
For more information about the fuel pump Unscrew the adjuster nut (2).
see Chapter 5 – Power supply system. Turn the adjuster (3) out to reduce the
clearance, rotate the adjuster to inside to
increase the clearance.
! DANGER !
AWAY FROM CHILDREN.
Work in a well-ventilated area with the engine
stopped.
Do not smoke, do not let flames or cause
sparks in the work area or where the fuel is
stored.
Clean immediately any fuel spillage.

For more details on the technical

specifications and adjustment of the
carburetor, see the table "Specifications for
the Regulation of Carburetors" presented in
Chapter 1 – General Information / Technical
Specifications. As for disassembly
procedures, cleaning, assembly and
adjustment of the carburetor are described in
detail in Chapter 5 – Power Supply System.
CLUTCH CABLE
When the clearance is according with the For the smoothest possible clutch operation,
specified, tighten the adjuster nut. the cable must be installed in the correct
Slide the sleeve back to cover the adjuster. position, without folds and kept clean and
lubricated.
Check the correct throttle grip operation after
adjustment. With the engine running, the idle The clutch cable should always have a
speed should not be affected when the clearance (1), as shown in the following
handlebar is fully turned to either the left or picture. The performance of the clutch must
right. not be affected by turning the handlebar fully
to the left or right.
CARBURATOR Apply grease on the lever contact zone and
the adjuster in order to make his actuation
Air lever smoother.
The carburetor is equipped with an air lever
to ease the starting of the engine when it is
cold. For this the lever has three positions:
the first one (1) is for when the engine
temperature is above 20°C; the second (2) is
for when the engine temperature is below
20°C. When the engine is warm - above 40°C
- no need to operate the lever and it must
remain in the (0) position.
2
1 Adjustment
0 Smaller adjustments are made in the adjuster
of the lever.
Pull the rubber protection out.
When performing this procedure for start the Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster.
bike should not be actuated the accelerator.
When the clearance is correct, tighten the
ENGINE IDLE SPEED lock nut and place the rubber protection on
the adjuster.
The adjustment of the idling on the carburetor
affects the behavior of the engine at start,
that is, an engine which idle speed is
correctly regulated is more easily to start.
Velocidade do ralenti: 1400 Rpm (+- 100)

Disconnect the spark plug cap (1) checking

their condition and the cable from the ignition
coil that connects it, if any of this is not in
good condition it should be replaced.
Remove the spark plug with an appropriate
18mm wrench.
Bigger adjustments are made in the

adjuster on the cable holder on the
engine.
For the regulation of the cable in the cable
holder on the engine you must:
 Tighten the upper adjuster to the end and
turn 1 back to back;
 Loosen the lower fixing nuts (1) and turn
the adjuster (2);
 Tighten the fixing nuts;
 Check the clutch operation.
Inspection
Test the spark plug on the existence of spark.
Note: The cable adjuster on the clutch lever

must always have a margin of maneuver to
maintain the proper clearance, considering
that during the functioning and the wear of Visually inspect the spark plug.
the clutch plates the clearance of the lever Check the following elements and replace if
decrease. necessary:
 Ceramic insulator broken or cracked;
SPARK PLUG  Worn out electrodes;
 Color of electrodes:
Removal
 Slightly darkened means good
Note: Before removing the spark plug, clean condition;
thoroughly around it, using compressed air,  Too brightness indicate
and make sure that no foreign material is malfunction of the ignition or lean
introduced into the combustion chamber. mixture;

 Wet or coal deposits indicate very VALVE CLEARANCE

rich mixture.
Note: Inspect and adjust valve clearance
Recommended spark plug when the engine is cold - below 35°C.
LG D8TC Procedure:
Standard
(equivalent) (Champion A8YC or Remove the seat and side covers;
NGK DR8ES) Remove the air filter box and the intake pipe
included;
Adjustment Remove the right front grille;
Measure the spark plug electrode clearance Remove the throttle piston out of the
with a feeler gauge (1). carburetor;
Adjust the clearance carefully bending the Release the fuel supply pipe near the pump;
electrode. If necessary, remove the screw in the right
fixation of the fuel pump;
Remove the covers of the valves holes (1).
ELECTRODES CLEARANCE OF THE Note: In the case of 240cc engine, intake

SPARK PLUG: 0,6 / 0,7 mm valve cover should be lowered three
Reuse of the spark plug millimeters on the height of the thread to be
Clean the electrodes of the spark plug with a able to remove it. Otherwise, the frame
wire brush or with a special cleaning agent reinforcement fixation will have to be
for spark plugs. loosened in the beams and moved up to
allow the intake valve cover removal.
Replacing a spark plug
Select a new spark plug.
Check and adjust the spark plug clearance
with a feeler gauge.
Assembly
Pointing the spark plug if possible by hand.
Tighten the spark plug with the specified
torque value.
! WARNING !
Do not exceed the specified torque value of Remove the two screws of the frame
the spark plug. Apply a higher torque value reinforcement fixation on the beams and
can damage the threads in the cylinder head move it up until it is possible to remove the
or make it impossible to subsequent removal intake valve cover.
of the spark plug.

For 125 / 150cc engines the reference mark

that exists in the camshaft rack is an "O"
Remove the crankshaft cover (1) and the
timing chain control point cover (2) and the which must be facing up, upright and aligned
camshaft cover (3). with a cutout in the form of "V" existing on the
outside of the cylinder head.
Turn the flywheel counter-clockwise 2-3 turns

to align "T" with the mark in the crankcase.
Check clearance on both valves through a
feeler gauge between the adjusting screw
and the auxiliary hammer.
Valve clearance value
Intake: 0,05 ± 0,02mm
Exhaust: 0,08 ± 0,02mm
Clearance adjustment on the intake valve
Loosen the lock nut (1) and enter the blade of
the feeler gauge;
Confirm that the piston is at top dead center

(TDC) in the compression stroke.
The two valves are with clearance, and the
two brands "—" "—" (dashes) in the camshaft
gear must be aligned parallel to the face /
surface of the cylinder head.

Tighten the set screw (2) until you have a Tighten the set screw (2) until you have a
slight friction in the feeler gauge (3); slight friction in the feeler gauge (3);
Tighten the fixing nut; Tighten the fixing nut;
Check the clearance value and repeat the
operation if necessary until the specified
clearance;
Hold the fixing screw and tighten the fixing
nut.
Check the clearance value and repeat the

operation if necessary until the specified
clearance;
Hold the fixing screw and tighten the fixing
nut.
Clearance adjustment on the exhaust
valve Tightening torques:
Loosen the lock nut (1) and enter the blade of Intake: 24N.m (2,4Kgf.m)
the feeler gauge; Exhaust: 26N.m (2,6Kgf.m)
Check if the O-rings (1) of the valve caps are
in good condition, replace if necessary.
Apply oil to the O-rings.

gently until the value of the specified

tightening.
Put the valve caps (1) and tighten with the

specified tightening value. Tightening torque:
Screws of the camshaft cover: 12N.m
(1,2Kgf.m)
Cover of the crankshaft: 8N.m (0,8Kgf.m)
Timing control point cover: 6N.m (0,6Kgf.m)
DRIVE CHAIN
! DANGER !
Be extremely careful not to put your fingers
between the sprocket and the chain.
Stop the engine. Lift the rear wheel by
placing a support or box above the bike
frame. Put the gearbox in neutral.
Note: In 240cc engines intake valve cover
Measure the maximum clearance of the chain
should be lower (recessed with at least three
in the intermediate point between pinion and
millimeters at the height of the thread) than
rack.
the cover on the exhaust valve hole.
Place the camshaft cover (1) and tighten the
two screws to the specific torque value.
Clearance: 30 – 40mm
Adjustment
Put the cover of the crankshaft (2) and the Loosen the nut on the rear axle (1);
timing control point cover (3) and tighten Loosen the adjuster nuts (2) on both sides;

With a 13mm wrench adjust the adjuster

screws (3) both sides equally until you obtain
the correct clearance.
Remove the chain retaining clip (1) carefully;

Remove the fixing link;
Remove the chain.
! WARNING !
Ensure that both tuners are in the same
position. If not the chain will misaligned with
the sprocket which can lead to excessive
wear and make up chain jump off sprocket.
Tighten the tuners fixing nuts.
Tighten the nut of the rear axle.
Tightening torque: 93N.m (9,5kgf.m)
Recheck the clearance in the chain and the
! WARNING !
free rotation of the rear wheel.
Be careful not to lose the O-rings when the
! WARNING ! clip and the retaining link are removed.
Press several times the rear brake pedal and
Wash the chain with a flammable solvent or
check that the brake is actuating. Always
with a high flash point (eg. kerosene) to not
perform this operation to ensure that the rear
damage the O-rings;
brake is operational.
Clean until it dries;
When the chain is too dirty, it should be
! WARNING !
removed and cleaned before being
lubricated. Do not use steam cleaning or water jet with
pressure because the O-rings will be
Removal damaged.
Remove the pinion cover (1); Inspect the chain and O-rings to locate wear
or damage. Replace the chain if it is with high
wear or damaged.
Measure the chain length by putting it on a
flat surface and fully extended so that the
links be aligned.

CHAIN LENGTH: DRIVE CHAIN GUIDE

SUPERMOTO: 428H – 110 links Check the chain guide (1) condition. If it is too
ENDURO: 428H – 112 links worn or damaged it must be replaced.
EXTREME: 520 – 114 links
Lubricate the chain with specific spray for
drive chains, which do not damage the O-
rings.
Pinion
Examine if the teeth of the pinion have
excessive wear or damage:
(1) Wear; (2) Normal; (3) Damaged
Replace if necessary.
Also check the tightness in the chain guide

fixing screws on the swing arm.
Note: Never install a new drive chain with a

used sprocket and pinion or new pinion and
sprocket with a used drive chain. Both the
drive chain as the sprocket and pinion should
be in good condition, otherwise the new parts
will wear out quickly.
Assembly
Install a new drive chain;
Place the fixing link and the retaining clip Models with chain pitch 520, also check the
always facing the rotational direction of the attachment of the support in the chain guide
chain and wheel; and swing arm.
Install the pinion cover;
Adjust the clearance of the drive chain.
! DANGER !
Do not install the drive chain in without the
four O-rings of the fixing link.
Check that there is no clearance between the
fixing link and the retaining clip.
Note: Assemble the retaining clip on the

fixing link always facing the direction of the
chain rotation.

SUSPENSION
! WARNING !
Do not drive the motorcycle with faulty
suspension. Loose, damaged or worn
components may affect the stability and
driving control.
FRONT SUSPENSION
Check the operation of the fork compressing
it several times (5 to 10), as shown in the
following figure.
SWING ARM PROTECTION

Check the condition of the swing arm
protection (1). If it have high wear or
damaged must be replaced.
Also check the tightening of the two screws
holding the protection of the swing arm,
located one on top and one at the bottom of
the protection.
Check if the fork has signs of leakage or

damage.
Replace all components that are damaged
and / or irreparable.
Confirm the tightness of all the screws and
nuts to the specified torque.
Cleaning of the dust seals on the
telescopic fork
Service Limit: 4.0mm thick The dust seals (1) are used to remove dust
and dirt particles of the forks. However, after
some time, dirt accumulates behind the seal.
! WARNING !
If this dirt is not removed, the oil sealing rings
If the wear of the protection arm strike the located behind may be leaking and the tubes
face of the swing arm, this will suffer wear of the fork can be scratched.
because it will be in contact with the drive
chain.

Check that all components of the rear

suspension have been properly installed and
that they are not damaged.
Confirm the tightness of all the screws and
Use a screwdriver to gently remove the dust nuts to the specified torque.
seal from the outer tube and move it along Put the motorcycle on a stand or box to lift
the tube. the rear wheel off the ground.
Try rotating the wheel sideways to check if
the swing arm bearings are damaged, as it is
shown in the following figure.
Replace them if damaged.
Clean the dust seals, outer tube and tubes

carefully. Lubricate with silicone spray or
engine oil. Replacing the dust seals to its
original position by hand.
Check if the connecting rods of the rear
suspension, needle and ball bearings are
REAR SUSPENSION
damaged.
Check the operation of the rear suspension Replace it if necessary.
doing up and down on the back of the bike
several times (5-10), as shown in the
following figure.

STEERING STEM BEARINGS steering stem bearings. Pay attention not

to over tighten or you may prevent the
PROCEDURE TO CHECK THE EXISTENCE free rotation of the steering.
OF CLEARANCE IN THE BEARINGS  Tighten the nut (2) and check the
Lift the front wheel off the ground and make clearance again and that the handlebar
sure the handlebar rotates freely. turns freely.
Check that the control cables do not interfere  Tighten the screws of the upper triple
with the rotation of the handlebar. clamp (1) according to the specified
If the handlebar rotates in non-symmetrical torque value.
shape, twist or have vertical movement, Tightening torque:
check and adjust the steering column
bearings. Steering table nut: 98N.m (10,0Kgf.m)
Screws of the top table: 32N.m (3,3Kgf.m)
Inspection
Press the brake lever and compress BOLTS AND NUTS
repeatedly the front suspension, while with
the left hand fingers positioned between the Check that all screws and nuts of the frame
adjusting nut and the steering column trying are tight according to the specified torque
to detect any clearance in the bearings. value.
Check that all the pins and clips are in place
and properly placed.
WHEELS / TYRES
Check the tire pressure.
Pressures on cold tires
ENDURO/TRAIL
150KPa (1,5Kgf/cm2)
front
ENDURO/TRAIL
175KPa (1,75Kgf/cm2)
rear
Adjustment procedures: 100 -150KPa (1,0 -
EXTREME front 1,5Kgf/cm2) It depends
on the road conditions
100 -150KPa (1,0 -
EXTREME rear 1,5Kgf/cm2) It depends on
the road conditions
SUPERMOTO 175KPa (1,75Kgf/cm2)
front
SUPERMOTO
200KPa (2,0Kgf/cm2)
rear
Note: The tire pressure should be checked

when the tires are cold (below 30°C).
 Loose the fixing screws from the top triple

clamp (1) on both sides and the nut (2)
M28x1.
 Tighten the adjusting nut (3) the
necessary to remove the clearance of the

Check the tires for cuts, incrusted nails or

other sharp objects. Check if the tires are damaged or high wear.
Check tread depth. Check if the wheels have corrosion or
damage.
Service limit: 3mm depth
FRONT WHEEL REMOVAL
Tighten the heads of the spokes (1) and the
fixer of the tube. Removal
To remove the front wheel, put the
motorcycle resting on its frame on a stand so
that the front wheel is off the ground.
! WARNING !
Do not operate the front brake lever while the
front wheel is removed.
ENDURO / SUPERMOTO
Unscrew the two shaft fixing screws (1) on
the right side of the fork, hold the wheel and
remove the front axle (2).
Remove the front wheel carefully from the
Tightening torque: fork.
Spoke head: 3.8N.m (0,38Kgf.m)
Air-tire chamber fixer: 15N.m (1,5Kgf.m)
Pull and push the rear wheel sideways (in
alignment with the axis) to check for
clearance in swing arm.

EXTREME Check if the wheel turns freely without any

hindrance.
Unscrew the two screws (1) on the left side of
Press several times the brake lever to make
the fork, loosen the front axle (2), hold the
sure that the brake is operating.
wheel and remove the shaft.
Tightening torque:
Remove the wheel from the fork.
Front wheel shaft: 74N.m (7,5Kgf.m)
Fixing screws of the front wheel shaft: 12N.m
(1,2Kgf.m)
! DANGER !
After assembling the front wheel, operate
several times the front brake lever to restore
pressure in the system.
Keep the brake discs free of oil and greasy
materials otherwise the braking effect is
reduced.
REAR WHEEL REMOVAL

Note: The threaded bush (3) of the front ! WARNING !
wheel axle must not be loosened or removed Do not actuate the rear brake pedal while the
from the right tube terminal as this part rear wheel is removed.
determines the position or correct wheel If the wheel axle is removed, clean the thread
center in the fork (Marzocchi 48mm) of PR4- and apply a layer of grease to prevent
EXTREME bike. If it is necessary to remove deterioration of the thread.
it, measure using a caliper rule and take note
of the projecting position or distance out of Removal
the holder shaft in order to later be able to Place the motorcycle on a stand, supporting
make correct assembly. If it was not followed the frame so that the rear wheel does not
the above procedure, please refer to the touch the ground.
Chapter 1 – General Information / Technical
Specifications. Loosen the locknut (1) on the right side of the
wheel, hold the rear wheel and remove the
axle shaft (2) by the left side until the rear
wheel is free but the brake caliper support
continues held in the swing arm.
Push forward the rear wheel to the maximum,
remove the chain from the sprocket and
gently remove the wheel from the swing arm.
Assembly
Place the front wheel between the tubes so
that the disc lies between the brake pads.
Tighten the front axle or the nut and tighten
the screws.

BRAKE SYSTEM
Brake discs
Due to wear, the thickness of the brake discs

in the contact area (1) with the pads
decreases. In its thinnest point (A), the
difference in thickness with respect to the
Assembly
nominal thickness may not be larger than 0.5
To assemble the rear wheel, should be mm. Measure the nominal thickness in the
followed the procedure in reverse order, area (B) outside the contact area and check
taking care to put the brake disc between the in several points of the disc.
pads. Make sure that the wheel guides are
! DANGER !
touching the adjusting screws (3) and they
both have the same adjustment. Tighten the For safety, the brake discs must be replaced
nut of the rear axle with the proper torque. as soon as they reach their wear limit (3mm
thick).
Check if the wheel turns freely. Press several
times the brake pedal to make sure that the Brake fluid reservoirs
rear brake is operating. The brake fluid reservoirs are designed so
Tightening torque: that even with worn pads is not necessary to
top up the level. If the fluid level becomes
Shaft nut of the rear wheel: 93N.m lower than the minimum level it means that
(9,5Kgf.m) the brake system has a leak or that the pads
are worn out.
! DANGER ! Brake fluid check
After assembling the rear wheel, actuate the Recommended brake fluid:
rear brake pedal until the system pressure is
restored. ENI Brake Fluid DOT 4 (SAE J1703,
Keep the discs free of oil and greasy FMVSS116)
materials, otherwise the braking power is Check the oil level of the reservoirs (1) of the
drastically reduced. front and rear brake.
Tighten the axle nut with the proper torque. A If the level is near the lower mark, check the
loose wheel can lead to an unstable behavior brake pads wear:
of the motorcycle.  If the pads are worn, replace it;

 If the pads are not worn, check that there

is no leak in the braking system, if there
is, it should be purged to eliminate air
bubbles.
After this check, add DOT4 brake fluid if
necessary to restore the level.
! WARNING !
Do not remove the cap from the front or rear
brake while the handlebar is not in a position
where the reservoir is level and the
motorcycle upright.
Front brake: Avoid acting the brake lever with the cover
Unscrew the cover fixing screws (1). removed. The brake oil will spill if the lever is
Remove the reservoir lid (2) and the pump actuated.
diaphragm. Do not mix oils, since they may not be
Add DOT4 brake fluid up to the upper pump compatible.
level mark. Avoid spilling oil on painted parts, plastic or
rubber. Place a cover in those parts whenever
an intervention in the braking system is made.
Wear of the brake pads
Front brake:
Visually inspect the pads beneath the caliper
to determine the wear.
Replace the brake pads if the wear line in the
pads reach the edge of the brake disc (1).
Rear brake:
Visually inspect the pads behind the caliper
to determine the wear.
Replace the brake pads if the wear line in the
pads reach the edge of the brake disc (1).
Rear brake:
Remove the cover fixing screws (1).
Remove the tank lid (2) and the pump
diaphragm;
Add DOT4 brake fluid up to the upper pump
level mark.

Act firmly the front brake lever or rear brake

pedal to check that no air entered. If the lever
or pedal is too soft or spongy, it is necessary Remove the clips / retaining bolts, then
to purge the air from the braking system. remove the pads from the caliper.
Check the condition of the pipes and
fixations. If there is deterioration, cracks or
leaks, the components must be replaced and
put new sealing rings. Tighten loose fixations.
! WARNING !
In case of replacement of the rear brake hose,
it is important to certify its correct position to
ensure that the hose never comes into
contact with the exhaust due to the vertical
movement of the swing arm or to be crushed
between the swing arm and the pump brake.
Brake pads replacement
Front wheel Clean the caliper holder and the caliper with
compressed air. Check if the sleeves of the
Remove the brake caliper holder of the fork, guide bolts are damaged and lubricate it if
removing the two fixing screws (1). necessary.
Assemble both pads and insert the
clips/retention bolts to the correct position
and tighten with specified torque, to ensure
that they will not be lost and the pads do not
jump off, which might lead to accidents.
Press the caliper piston to move away and

retract in order to be able to put the new
pads.

Rear wheel
To remove the rear brake pads, except for
the case of PR4 EXTREME, rear wheel must
be removed - see "REAR WHEEL
REMOVAL" in this chapter. After removal
pads should be pushed with a key for this
purpose in order to place the piston in its
retract position.
Note: Correctly fit the new pads with the end

lodged in the pin guide or in the cropping with
the existing stainless steel plate in front Remove the retaining bolt (1) and then
caliper. remove the brake pads.
Tightening torque:
Front caliper holder screws: 26N.m
(2,7Kgf.m) Clean the caliper with compressed air, put
the new pads correctly in their slots and
Front caliper brake pads retention bolt: tighten again with the retaining bolt applying
14N.m (1,4Kgf.m) the proper torque. Finally refit the rear wheel
ensuring the disc free pass through the brake
! DANGER ! pads.
Keep the brake discs free of oil and greasy
materials, otherwise the braking effect will be
dramatically reduced.
After replacement of the front brake pads,
brake lever should be actuated several times
to restore the pressure in the system.

Rear brake pedal

Adjustment
Loosen the lock nut (2).
Turn the adjuster stud (3) to increase or
decrease the pedal height.
Measure the distance between the ball and
the pump fixing bolt (4).
If you have the correct measure (5), tighten
the locknut.
Enter the retaining pin and make sure that STANDARD: 93,0mm
the inner stainless plate is pressing the pads.
Tighten the retaining bolt followed the stopper Standard regulation of the distance between
(if it exists). the locknut of the adjustment stud and
locknut on the kneecap of the brake pedal
(6): 12,5mm.
After installation of the pads in the brake

caliper, assemble rear wheel.
Make sure that the brake disc is inserted STOP LIGHT SWITCH
between the two pads on the rear brake Note: There is no regulation of the brake light
caliper when placing the wheel or the disc switch for the rear brake because it is a
may be damaged. hydraulic switch.
Repeatedly press the brake pedal to restore By acting the front brake lever, check if the
the pressure in the system and check if the brake light of the taillight illuminates before
wheel rotates correctly. there was effective braking.
Note: In the case of PR4 EXTREME removal If the light does not turn on properly, adjust
of the rear wheel is not required, since there the adjuster in the lever to turn on the switch
is sufficient space between the wheel hub at the correct height, if not possible it must be
and the disc to be possible to remove the replaced.
brake pads. Adjustment
Loosen the lock nut (1);
Tightening torque: Turn the adjuster (2) clockwise to advance
Rear caliper brake pads retention bolt: 20N.m the switch or in the counterclockwise
(2,0Kgf.m) direction to delay the switch performance.
Tighten the locknut.

! WARNING !
The side stand is equipped with an automatic
retract system if the motorcycle is no longer
supported by the side stand. So, after being
supported on the side stand, the motorcycle
should not be inadvertently handled, since the
side stand may retract and lead to the
motorcycle falling.
The PR3 / PR4 side stand is designed to
support only the motorcycle's weight. At any
time someone should sit when the motorcycle
is supported on the side stand, because this
inappropriate effort may damage the side
SIDE STAND stand and their support, and in extreme
cases, damage the left frame beam.
Check if the side stand (1) is damaged and /
or loss of tension in the spring (2).
Check if the whole side stand is not folded
EXHAUST SYSTEM
and moving without restrictions. Note: In the case of motorcycles equipped
Lubricate the side stand pivot. with catalytic converter its maintenance is
scarce. Keep the components tight to ensure
proper seal in the exhaust manifold. Care
should be taken during the fuel supply to
never use leaded petrol to avoid damaging
the catalyst.
MX EXHAUST
In the motorcycles equipped with the MX
exhaust, the existing muffler fiber within the
exhaust must be replaced at regular intervals.
It is recommended to exchange the ceramic
wool at least every 3.000Kms.
This procedure was changed in 2014 due to
small changes in the muffler. Both
procedures will be described for performing
this type of maintenance.
Put the side stand on the floor with the foot MX MUFFLER (… - 2014)
and support the motorcycle on it. Make sure
the stand is supported on solid ground and
that the motorcycle is in a stable position.
Check if the side stand pivot and nut are
tightened to the specified torque value, but so
that the automatic collection system work
properly.
Turn the side stand between 45º – 90º (1/8 to
1/4 turn).
Tighten the nut of the pivot with the specified
torque.

The following procedure for all bikes

equipped with this muffler until November
2014 is as follows:
 Remove muffler from the bike (Chapter 2
– Frame/Panels/Exhaust);
 Remove the cap and tighten the muffler
body on the work bench, by the support
zone;
 Use an electric drill with a Ø4mm drill to
unbolt and remove the rivets in the
bottom of the muffler and with a Ø3 mm
drill to unbolt and remove the rivets on the
muffler terminal;
 Remove any existing fiber inside the
exhaust muffler;
 Install ceramic wool blanket, wrapping it
correctly around the perforated tube;
 Separate the core of the aluminum profile,

and check if it is in good condition;
 Inspect the perforated tube for damage. If

it is broken, weld it to correct the failure;  Installing the tool guide to assist in filling
of ceramic wool and the assembly of the
core, so that the entire inner space of the
aluminum profile be filled;
 Remove muffler end;

 Introduce the set into the muffler core of  Apply high temperature paste inside, as
the exhaust tip profile until obtaining the illustrated in the image below;
fitting in the correct position;
 At the end of remove the insulating tape;

 Fix the core of the exhaust pipe to the
profile with 5mm rivets;
 Install the bushing on the muffler which

should enter with pressure on the profile
 Put insulating paper tape on each side of hole in aluminum. If not, you should use
the pipe joint and the terminal and apply another bushing with superior size to
the high temperature paste seal exhaust allow reuse of the MX exhaust muffler;
tip;

 If the bushing on the muffler is new it

should be opened holes using Ø4mm
drill. Finally, attach the terminal in the
exhaust muffler with 4mm rivets;
 Remove the entire used fiber core out of

the exhaust and cleaning any type of soot
MX EXHAUST TIP (2014 - …) which may exist;
The new exhaust mufflers installed on bikes
PR3 / PR4 MX since November 2014 have
some differences:
 Outside tube in stainless steel;
 The terminal muffler in aluminum and
fixed with 5mm rivets;
 Do not use the inner cover at the
upper end above the terminal;
 The assembly of the muffler fiber
inside the profile is performed in a
different sequence from that
described above;
To replenish the muffler with the new ceramic
wool, proceed as follows:
 Unbolt and remove the muffler terminal;
 Enter the new fiber into the muffler,

wrapping it completely around the
perforated tube to fill up completely;

 Finally, attach the terminal in the exhaust

muffler with 5mm rivets.
ASSEMBLY
Assemble the exhaust muffler with the
bushing and the respective clamp (if
applicable). Install the tip on the bike again
(Chapter 2 - Frame-Panels-Exhaust).
 Assemble the terminal on the tip checking
the pressure he performs to enter and, if it ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
is small it must be replaced and in this
case should also open the holes with an BATTERY
Ø 5mm drill; The YTX5L-BS battery used in PR3 / PR4
has a closed system and does not require
maintenance. After formatting the new
battery, do not remove the strip of sealing
lids, it is not necessary to check the
electrolyte level or add water. Just keep the
terminal cables tight, poles and battery clean
and lightly lubricated with grease or Vaseline
acid free.

To access the battery, remove the right side manual and follow the specified charging
cover (Chapter 2 - Frame-Panels-Exhaust). method.
To remove the battery, first disconnect the Charging Charge Charging
negative (-) and then the positive (+). method Current time
Normal 0,5 A 5 to 10 hours
Fast 3,0 A 1 Hour
! WARNING !
Fast charge is not recommended; use this
method only in emergency cases.
When assembling never change polarity,
otherwise you can destroy the battery and the
current rectifier.
Never disconnect the battery when the engine
is running. The current rectifier can be
On the battery assembly, first connect the
destroyed.
positive terminal and then the negative.
In case of the motorcycle enter into a higher If it necessary to replace the battery, see
Chapter 15 - Electrical system.
stop period, remove and recharge the battery
every month slow charge. The storage ! DANGER !
temperature should be between 0ºC - 35°C. If the electrolyte (sulfuric acid) spill off the
Do not expose the battery to direct sunlight. battery, be very careful. The electrolyte
Charging method causes severe burns.
In case of contact with skin, clean with water.
In case of contact with eyes, apply plenty of
water for at least 15 minutes and consult a
doctor immediately.
The battery is a sealed model but can release
gases. Avoid sparks or flames near the
battery.
Faulty batteries must be stored out of reach of
children. Ensure that the batteries are
collected by qualified entities for the purpose.
FUSES
The fuses are located under the seat. When
removing the seat you can view the fuses.
The battery must be recharged outside of the

motorcycle in a well-ventilated area, dry,
clean and away from sources of ignition or
flammable substances.
To recharge the YTX5L-BS battery, use a
suitable 12V charger. First connect the
terminals (alligator clips) on the charger to
the battery terminals and then insert the plug
of the battery charger unit to the network
power socket (220V). Always read the battery
charging instructions on a label or a user

The fuse capacity is 15 or 20 amperes (plug

type).
Always keep one replacement fuse into its
holder in good condition, for emergencies.
Replace a damaged fuse by another of equal

value. When you put a new fuse and he
blows again, it is recommended that an AJP
dealer be consulted for an inspection to the
electrical system.
! WARNING !
Under no circumstances should be applied a Remove the retaining clip (1) and remove the
larger capacity fuse or repair a fuse. Improper lamp holder bushing (2) out of the headlight
treatment could damage the whole electrical optical by pressing and turning the lamp.
system. Then press and turn the light bulb to release
The plastic caps must remain properly it off the bush.
secured in the holder so that no fuse be lost.
When placing a new lamp, avoid touching the

glass globe lamp in order to keep it clean of
fat. Clean the lamp with a cloth moistened
LAMPS REPLACEMENT with alcohol to remove fingerprints or other
Lamp replacement headlight traces of grease to ensure greater lamp life.
Release the two rubber bands (1) and turn Insert the new light bulb into the socket
the headlight forward. bushing and reinsert on the headlight optic
reflector. Place the retention clip and
assemble the rubber protection cover.

If the connection terminals have been Replacing turn signals lamps

removed from the headlight bulb holder,
make the connection again by putting them in Remove the screw, the glass and the turn
the following order: black (ground, right); signal inner globe;
white (low beam, center) and blue (high
beam, left). Check following picture.
Press the lamp, turn it counter-clockwise to

remove it;
Fix the holder headlight again through the
rubber bands on the fork and adjust its
position properly.
Note: Use only 12V35/35W BA20d
lamps.
Parking lamp replacement
Remove the bulb holder out of the optic,
press and turn the light bulb counter-
clockwise to remove it.
Install the new bulb in the socket, snap into
the hole in the headlight optic.
Install the new lamp in the turn signal;
Note: Use only 12V5W BA9S lamps.

Fit the interior globe (orange) and the glass of
the turn signal, aligning its slot by the housing
/ turn signal body.

Note: After installing the turn signal lamp on,

clean it with a cloth moistened with alcohol to
avoid leaving fingerprints that may lead to the HEADLIGHT RANGE
formation of hot spots, which may decrease
the lifetime of the new lamp. Adjustment
The existing drain cut in each glass of the To adjust the range of the headlight you
turn signals must always be facing down. should turn the screw located under the
optical (1).
TAIL LIGHT
The tail light (1) is of LEDs and does not
allow the replacement or repair. In case of
failure of the parking lamp or the brake, it is
necessary to replace the complete rear
spoiler.
If you turn in a clockwise direction the range

will be higher, rotating counterclockwise the
range will be less.

DIGITAL SPEEDOMETER should be flashing to introduce with the

left button the appropriate number to
obtain the correct value of the requested
parameter;
 After introducing the four digits
corresponding to the perimeter of the
front tire of the bike, press again the right
button to validate, exit the menu and
return to normal operation of the gauge.
Model Front wheel Perimeter
SM 17” 1790mm
MX 19” 1950mm
EN 21” 2200mm
The digital speedometer gives information on
the instantaneous speed and partial or total To choose between kilometers and miles it
distance traveled. Depending on the trading must:
market, the speed and distances are shown
in kilometers or miles.  Turn on the ignition key on;
 Expect the speedometer to make the
To switch between the total distance for the starting procedure;
trip distance press the button 1. To reset the  Press both buttons for 3 seconds;
trip distance this must be selected; press  Select "Mile" or "Km" with the left button;
button 1 until the value pass to zero.  Confirm your choice with right button.
CALIBRATE THE DIGITAL
SPEEDOMETER MOTORCYCLE CLEANING
When the digital speedometer is replaced, Clean the motorcycle regularly in order to
you must program the new digital maintain the beauty of plastic surfaces and
speedometer, introducing the correct prevent corrosion. The best way to do this is
parameters according to the front wheel tire to use warm water mixed with cleaning
perimeter that is fitted on the bike. detergent and a sponge.
Procedure: The hard dirt can be removed with the help of
a plastic brush and gentle water jet.
 With the ignition key on, press both
buttons simultaneously until appears on  Avoid direct high pressure jets of water
the display the letters "IP" on the left, and directly to the wheel bearings and
then "+> ∂ +" on the right side; steering stem bearings and also for the
lamps in the headlight and electrical
switches or the air filter area.
 Use quality detergents to clean the
motorcycle. Especially dirty parts should
be cleaned with the help of a brush.
 Before washing with water, plug the
exhaust pipe to avoid getting water inside.
 After washing with a soft water jet, it
 Press the left button to introduce the first should be dried with compressed air and
digit flashing the number "1" or "2" as the a cloth. Make a short ride or put the
measure of the front tire perimeter of the engine running and let idling until the
bike; engine reaches operating temperature
 Press the right button to change or and actuate the brakes. By heating these
activate the next digit (2, 3 or 4) which components, the remaining water will

evaporate from inaccessible parts of the After correctly aligned, continue with paper
engine and the brakes. removal and sticker application.
 Once the motorcycle cools down,
lubricate all moving parts of slide and Press sticker from inside to borders, to
support, lubricate the chain with chain remove air bubbles.
spray.
 To prevent malfunction of the electrical For a perfect adherence, use a hot air blower
system, the emergency button, the (hair dryer). Apply warm air for 5 seconds at
headlamp control and connectors should a 5/7 cm and remove air bubbles again.
be treated with a spray of electrical
contacts. Let stickers rest for 48 before any sport or
cleaning activity.
! WARNING !
When washing the motorcycle never apply Note: for a longer sticker’s life, do not apply
high pressure water jets directly to certain water jets over them.
sensitive points of the bike, such as electrical
and electronic components, air filter, control
cables, oil cooler, exhaust nozzle orifice, the
steering column bearings and wheels, etc. By
penetrate these components, water (or
humidity) can cause oxidation or corrosion
and bad electrical contacts, causing the bike
malfunction or even lead to premature
destruction of these components.
STICKERS
New sticker’s application

Note: Please read these instructions
completely before new sticker’s application.
Surface preparation
Remove all stickers and wash carefully
plastics with water and soap.
Remove grease from old stickers with an
appropriate grease remover.
After plastic cleaning, wash your hands and
dry them.
Stickers should be applied in a clean, warm
and dry room.
Application
Start by graphic alignment. On stickers with
holes, start alignment there. On stickers
without holes you can use paper stripes to
help alignment.
Take out one end of protective paper and
start applying it at plastic part.
Do not press immediately with confirming
alignment.

Chapter 4 – Lubrication
SERVICE INFORMATION 4–1 CENTRIFUGAL OIL FILTER 4–4

ROTOR
TROUBLESHOOTING 4–2 OIL PUMP 4–6
RADIATOR AND OIL PIPES 4–2 LUBRICATION SCHEME 4 – 12
SERVICE INFORMATION
SPECIFICATIONS
Element Item Specification Service

limit
Oil capacity Engine 125cc 200/240cc Replace
Change / Replace 1 Liter 1,1 Liters every
2.000km
When disassembling the engine 1,1 Liters 1,2 Liters
Lubrication Forced by trocoidal oil pump Z39 Z37 -
Recommended Brand ENI-AGIP
engine oil Classification API: SF or SG
Type
Viscosity: SAE 20W-50
Oil filter Grid Reusable
Centrifugal filter Rotor on the 125/200cc Ø68mm
crankshaft 240cc Ø58mm
Oil pump Clearance in the tip 0,15 0,20
Clearance in the body 0,15 – 0,21 0,35
Clearance in the end 0,03 – 0,12 0,15
Screws in the rotors cover M4x10 -
Tightening of the cap screws 3N.m (0,3Kgf.m) -
Pump chain sprocket cover bolts M5x20 -
(engine 240)
Tightening of the screws on the 5N.m (0,5Kgf.m) -
cover
Pump mounting bolts M6x30 -
Tightening of the screws fixing the
12N.m (1,2Kgf.m) -
oil pump
O-ring pump seals on the engine
2 O-rings 9,4x2,4mm -
crankcase
Oil cooler (On Thread type M12x1,5 -
200/240cm3 Racord screws banjos on the
M12x1,25X30 -
engines) radiator
Tightening of the screws M12
29N.m (3,0Kgf.m) -
racord
Sealing rings 12,3x20x16 -
Spacer 10mm -

Radiator fixing screws M6x30 w/ tab -

Sealing washers 8mm 8,2x14,5x1,5 -
Oil pipes Sealing washers 10mm 10,2x16x1,2 -
Sealing washers 12mm 12,3x20x16 -
GENERAL INFORMATION there will be more space for removing the

inlet tube (short).
! WARNING !
Used oil may cause cancer if you contact
repeatedly with the skin for extended Outlet pipe (long)
periods. It is recommended to wash your
hands thoroughly with soap and water Remove the left side cover (see Chapter 2);
Remove the racord screw (1) on banjo outlet
after handling used oil.
pipe in the radiator, use two wrenches to
TROUBLESHOOTING avoid damaging the oil radiator;
Engine oil level too low - high oil consumption:

 External oil leaks;
 Worn piston Segments;
 Faulty cylinder head gasket.
Engine oil contamination:
 Oil changed a few times;
 Faulty cylinder head gasket;
 Worn piston rings.
RADIATOR AND OIL PIPES

OIL PIPES
Aspect of the new oil pipes
Remove the tube by loosening the racord (2)
on the right crankcase cover.
Removal Inlet pipe (short)

Note: For reasons of space, if necessary Remove the banjo bolt (1) in the inlet pipe on
to remove both tubes it must first be the right crankcase;
removed the oil outlet pipe (long) and then

Remove the screw from the oil inlet pipe (2)

and sealing rings on the lower racord of the Outlet pipe
radiator, using two wrenches not to damage
the oil radiator. Assemble the racord screw with sealing rings
in the upper oil cooler banjo.
Tighten the screw to the specified torque
value by keeping the oil pipe banjo aligned
with the frame tube.
Note: Do not bend the oil outlet pipe.
Inlet pipe
Assemble the lower racord in the right
crankcase cover and tighten according to the
specified torque value.
Assemble the screw racord with sealing rings
made of copper in the lower banjo oil cooler.
Remove the oil inlet pipe. Note: Do not bend the oil inlet pipe. Make
sure that the oil pipe is not positioned against
Inspection the exhaust curves.
Check that the racord screws and the oil hose Adjust the two pipes in the correct position
is clogged, damaged or worn and replace if before the final tightening on the oil cooler.
necessary. The engine should never work
with damage on the oil pipes or the radiator. Tighten the racord screw of the oil inlet pipe to
the radiator with the specified tightening.
If they are clogged, clean it with a non- Always use a 22mm wrench to lock the
flammable solvent with high combustion point. hexagon socket of the radiator to avoid
damage during tightening.
! WARNING !
Never use gasoline or solvents with a low
flash point to clean the oil passage tubes. Tightening torques:
Can cause fire or explosion.
Oil pipe banjo on the right crankcase (200cm 3
Assembly / M8x1): 26N.m (2,7Kgf.m)
Place each oil pipe in the correct position, Oil pipe banjo on the right crankcase
between the front engine supports and the (M10x1,25): 34N.m (3,5Kgf.m)
frame, as shown in the following image.
Oil pipe racord on the clutch cover (M8x1):
26N.m (2,7Kgf.m)

Oil pipe racord on the clutch cover

(M10x1,25): 34N.m (3,5Kgf.m)
Banjos screws of the oil pipes on the radiator
(M12x1,25): 34N.m (3,5Kgf.m)
Put the engine running and check the perfect
sealing of the lubrication circuit, making sure
that there is no oil leakage.
CENTRIFUGAL OIL FILTER

ROTOR
This centrifugal rotor (1) is on the engine
 Remove the kick starter pedal (if
crankshaft, wherein whose walls are being
applicable);
deposited small burrs due to the action of
centrifugal force as the oil for lubricating  Remove the clutch cable on the lever on
passes by the connecting rod / crankshaft the engine;
during engine operation.
Periodically should be done a cleaning to this  Remove all the screws and remove the
filter / rotor. It is recommended that this be right crankcase cover;
done every 12.000 Km, or when is necessary
to change the clutch plates.
Removal
To remove this centrifugal rotor the following
steps should be followed:
 Support the motorcycle on its side stand;
 Drain the engine oil (page 3-5);
 Remove the brake pedal;

 Remove the three screws on the

 For 200 / 240cm3 engines with oil cooler, centrifugal impeller cover. Care should be
the cover may be resting besides front taken not to break the rotor if it has to use
wheel avoiding remove the oil pipe; an impact wrench to loosen these screws
on the rotor cover;
 Remove the circlip and remove the nylon

sprocket in the oil pump.  Then remove the centrifugal impeller using
two special tools to loosen the crankshaft,
one to lock the crankshaft and the other to
fit the special nut;
 For some 240cm3 engines you must first

remove the cover over the steel sprocket;
 Finally remove the centrifugal impeller and

clean all possible burrs and dirt that exist in
their walls.

OIL PUMP
Aspect of the engine oil pump.
Removal
Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 3).
Remove the brake pedal (page 4 - 4);
Remove the kick starter pedal;
Remove the right crankcase cover (page 4-5);
Remove the circlip and remove the follower
gear of the oil pump.
Assembly
The assembly of the centrifugal impeller
should be done in reverse order to its
removal, applying the torque required at each
stage.
Tightening torques:
Rotor/centrifugal filter nut on the crankshaft:
83N.m (8,5Kgf.m)
Rotor cover / centrifugal filter oil screws: 5N.m
In some versions of the 240 cm3 engines oil
(0,5Kgf.m)
pump is slightly different, so it is necessary to
Screws from the sprocket cover of the pump remove two further components:
(240cm3): 5N.m (0,5Kgf.m)  Two screws;
Screws from the right crankcase cover:  Sprocket cover.
12N.m (1,2Kgf.m)
Nut and bolt bearing pivot of the rear brake
pedal: 20N.m (2,0Kgf.m)
Note: Pay attention to the state of the gasket

of the right crankcase cover, if necessary
replace or apply a silicone wire. Pay attention
to the tightening torque of each screw / nut by
applying the specified tightening.

Remove the O-rings of the slots in the engine

crankcase.
Unscrew the two M4x12 PH screws and

Remove the two fixing screws the oil pump
remove the cover of the rotors.
with a star screwdriver (if necessary use a
impact wrench to loosen both screws).
Remove the oil pump. Wash and dry all parts before inspecting the
components of the oil pump.

Inspection
! WARNING !
If any component of the oil pump is worn
over the service limit, replace the oil pump
as a set.
Note: Note the position of all parts during

disassembly so you can assemble the parts in
the same position.
It should be taken into consideration the

following operations:
 Wash and clean all components of the oil Service limit: 0,35mm
pump before inspecting or assemble; Measuring the clearance between the outer
 Measure in several places and use the rotor and the face of the pump casing, use a
highest value to compare with the service precision ruler and a blade caliper.
limit;
 If any portion of the oil pump is worn
beyond the specified service limits, replace
the entire oil pump set.
Measure the clearance between the inner and

outer rotor.
Service limit: 0,15mm

Removal
Remove the following components:
 Rotor cover;
 Inner and outer rotor;

Measure the clearance between the outer
rotor and the pump housing.
 Rotor shaft;

 Pump Gear.
Assembly
Fit the inner rotor on the outside with the
marks facing the outside.
Inspect the two rotors.

Check the shaft of the pump gears and rotor
pin for wear or damage.
Enter the axis on the rotor with the pin

inserted into the existing countersink.
Inspect the body of the oil pump for the

existence of excessive wear signs.
Apply oil on the inner and outer rotors and put

it on the body of the oil pump.

Install the set of pump gears with the rotor Install the rotor cover screws and tighten to
shaft in the pump housing, aligning the flat the specified tightening.
surfaces of the gear and shaft.
Tightening torques:
Cover screws of pump rotors: 3N.m
(0,3kgf.m)
Pump sprocket cover bolts (240cm3): 5N.m
(0,5Kgf.m)
Assemble the follower sprocket and fit the
circlip correctly.
Assemble the cover on the rotors, with the

protruding end aligned with the recess in the
pump housing.
Ensure that the oil pump turns smoothly

before installing on the engine.
Installation
Cover the sealing rings using oil and install in
the lower crankcase slots.
Tighten the two screws to the correct torque.

In the pump of the 240cc engine, if applicable,
to install the rotor cover align the guide with
the tooth in the pump housing.
Align the holes in the drive gear of the oil

pump with the holes of the fixing screws of the
oil pump.

Assemble the right crankcase cover by

tightening all screws with the specified torque.
Then should be placed the engine oil.
Tightening torques:
Fixing screws of the oil pump: 12N.m
(1,2Kgf.m)
Bolts of the right crankcase cover: 12N.m
(1,2Kgf.m)
Note: Pay attention to the state of the gasket

of the right crankcase cover, if necessary
Install the oil pump in the engine crankcase replace or apply silicone seal.
and tighten the fixing screws. Pay attention to the tightness of all screws,
applying the specified torque.

LUBRICATION SCHEME CIRCUIT OF THE ENGINE WITHOUT OIL COOLER

Chapter 5 – Fuel feed system
SERVICE INFORMATION 5–1 FUEL PUMP 5–5

TROUBLESHOOTING 5–2 CARBURETOR 5–8
AIR FILTER BOX 5–3 ADJUSTMENTS 5 – 20
SPECIFICATIONS FOR
FUEL TANK 5–4 5 – 23
CARBURETORS SET-UP
FUEL FILTER 5–5 ASSEMBLY SCHEMES 5 – 25
SERVICE INFORMATION
GENERAL ! DANGER !
Fuel is extremely flammable and explosive
! WARNING !
under certain conditions. KEEP IT AWAY
Working in a location with adequate FROM CHILDREN.
ventilation. Smoke, flames or sparks in the Work in a well-ventilated area with the engine
workplace or where gasoline is stored can stopped.
cause a fire or explosion. Do not smoke, do not let flames or sparks in
the work area or where the fuel is stored.
Before cleaning the air and fuel passages with Clean immediately any spillage of fuel.
compressed air, make sure that the
SPECIFICATIONS
secondary air pump is removed otherwise it
may be damaged. Item Specification
When removing the feeding system, observe Fuel pump Paiolli, by vacuum
the location of the sealing rings. Replace with Outlet pipe
new where, during assembly, show wear or between deposit / Ø9x5x220mm
damage. filter
Outlet pipe
Note: By removing the carburetor, place a between filter / Ø9x5x220mm
suitable container for gasoline under the end pump
of the drain tube, preventing spread gasoline. Outlet pipe
After removing the carburetor, seal the engine between pump / Ø9x5x170mm
intake nozzle orifice using a clean cloth or derivation T
cover it with tape to prevent foreign material Feeding tube
from entering the engine. between T / Ø9x5x60mm
PR3 / PR4 models only consumes unleaded carburetor
gasoline with minimum 95 octane. Never use Return pipe
leaded gasoline to not destroy the catalyst between T / Ø9x5x385mm
and the exhaust system of the motorcycle. deposit
Vacuum tube
If the bike remain immobilized or stored for
between the pump Ø9x5x210mm
more than one month, drain the float
/ intake manifold
chamber. Leave gasoline in the float chamber
without the bike being used for long periods of
time can cause obstruction of the jets,
resulting in difficulties to put the engine
running at start or inadequate driving the
vehicle.

TROUBLESHOOTING  Needle or needle diffuser with too much

wear;
The motor rotates but does not start:
 Main jet loosened.
 No fuel in the tank;
The engine turns off, the start is
 The fuel does not reach the carburetor: difficult or idling is irregular:
 Fuel filter obstructed;
 Fuel line obstructed;  Restricted fuel line;
 Breathe hose fuel tank cap obstructed  Fuel mixture very poor / rich;
or damaged;
 Suction pipe obstructed;  Fuel contaminated / damaged:
 Vacuum pipe damaged;  Minimum jet clogged;
 Fuel pump damaged.
 Intake air leak;
 Fuel excess (soaked engine):
 Idling out of adjustment;
 Air filter obstructed;
 Soaked carburetor.  Breather in fuel tank cap clogged or
damaged;
 Dirty air filter;
 Fuel contaminated:
 Jets obstructed.  Mixture screw out of adjustment;
 Malfunctioning air lever (CHOKE) or air  Defective ignition system.
sealing butterfly;
Backfire or failures during
 Malfunctioning of the throttle; acceleration:
 No spark in the spark plug (faulty ignition  Poor mixture;
system).
 Defective ignition system.
Lean mixture
Underperforming (handling) and high
 Clogged fuel jet; fuel consumption:
 Faulty float valve;  Fuel system clogged;
 Very low float level;  Defective ignition system.
 Restricted fuel line;
 Carburetor breather hose clogged;
 Fuel tank breather hose restricted;
 Faulty throttle valve.
Rich mixture
 Closed air valve / CHOKE (malfunction of
the air lever / CHOKE);
 Air jet clogged;
 Faulty float valve;
 Very high float level;
 Very dirty air filter;

AIR FILTER BOX

Removal
Remove the following components:
Remove the seat and side covers (see
Chapter 2);
Loosen the screw and remove the air filter;
Remove the four screws and separate the

filter housing cover;
Loosen the clamp of the inlet pipe in rubber of

the carburetor;
Remove the existing old silicone, wash the

box and the cover and dry with compressed
air;
Apply evenly a silicone string along the edge
of the cover and fit the cover on the filter
housing, tightening after the four screws
taking care not to damage the plastic threat;
Remove the filter housing with the rubber tube

included;

Installation
Tightening torque:
Air filter fixing screw: 10N.m (1,0Kgf.m)
FUEL TANK
Check that the suction pipe is not broken or

clogged.
Removal
Chapter 2);
Remove rear frame (see Chapter 2);
Remove the four screws fastening the fuel Check that the phalange of the return and the
tank and remove it from the rear frame. gasket are in good condition.
Remove the suction pipe and the phalange of Installation

the return tube with the respective gaskets.

Type-specific bolts: oval head M6x12 pump, restrict or block the flow of fuel causing
loss of power and irregular engine operation.
Note: Only use screws with the correct length FUEL PUMP
(M6x12) to avoid damaging the tank when The fuel pump which PR3 / PR4 works by
tightening the fuel tank to the rear frame and vacuum in the intake manifold created by the
the rear fender in the fuel tank. passage of air drawn in by the engine.
An incorrect installation of fuel pipes can
cause possible engine malfunction.
! DANGER !
Fuel pipes must be properly positioned to This double membrane pump automatically
ensure that they never touch in the exhaust cuts the flow of fuel when the engine is
or become pinched / crushed. switched off. So the bike does not have
This contact can cut the pipes and cause a gasoline shut-off valve.
fuel spill, which can lead to loss of During refueling operations, it is very
motorcycle control or cause the beginning of important to ensure that do not pass into the
a fire. tank any impurities such as water or soil / mud
that may be accumulated next to the threaded
FUEL FILTER filler cap.
If impurities reach the inside of the fuel pump,
The fuel filter (1) is mounted between the right will damage the membranes / valves,
frame beam and the carburetor, under the disabling the fuel pump.
seat. It is only necessary to remove the filter The use of contaminated fuel will also
from the pipes to make the replacement. damage the fuel pump.
In case of any malfunction of the fuel pump, it
should be replaced as a complete set.
Note: Despite not being available any parts /
components to repair the fuel pump, it can be
dismantled for cleaning purposes.
Removal
Chapter 2);
Remove the air filter housing (see page 5 –
4);
Remove the three connection pipes of pump,
the inlet, the outlet and the vacuum;
It must be replaced when it is observed the
existence of dirt on the inside, because the
accumulation of any dirt may damage the

Separate the base cover off the pump body

carefully to avoid damaging the gasket and
the respective plastic diaphragm.
Remove the two screws and nuts that hold the

fuel pump to the frame.
Fuel pump disassembly
Note: Prior to disassembling the fuel pump, it

is recommended to take note or make a
reference mark as help to ensure that
reassembly later of the covers in the fuel
pump is in the correct position.
Remove the four screws (1) on the cover.
Check each part’s condition, checking that

show no sign of corrosion or deterioration.
Carefully separate the top cover from the

body without damaging the gasket and plastic
diaphragm.
In the pump housing, inspect the pump

membranes on the base side.
Check the membranes on the side of the top
cover.

Confirm that each part is installed in the

correct position (as notes or reference marks
made previously) in order to ensure the
proper functioning of the fuel pump.
At the end progressively tighten the four bolts
"X".
When washing the pumps parts, a suitable

solvent must be used to not damage the
rubber membranes or diaphragms.
Thoroughly clean each component of the
pump and blow gently to avoid damaging the
plastic membranes and/or the rubber base.
Installation
On models with 240cm3 engine, the fixing
screw on the right side of the fuel pump
should be installed with the nut facing up to
not prevent the cover removal of the inlet
valve, where it is necessary to further adjust
the engine valves.
Assembly of the fuel pump

Make the assembly in reverse order of
removal.
When tightening the fuel pump on the frame

strengthening only apply the specified torque
not to break the pump.
Connect the pipes in the correct position.

CARBURETOR Remove the two M6 nuts (circliped) with the

respective plate washers, if applied.
Carburetor removal Pull the carburetor backward to get out of the
bolts on the inlet manifold.
Remove the seat and side covers.
Remove the air filter; loosen the clamp on the
inlet tube in the carburetor and remove the
filter housing with the rubber tube included.
Drain float chamber and release the fuel pipe.
In older models, release the cold start air
cable (CHOKE).
Rotate the carburetor ¼ turn anti-clockwise,

so that the air lever (choke) is facing the
bushing of the beams and the shock
absorber.
Unscrew the cover with the throttle cable and

remove the piston out of the carburetor.
Unscrew the nut on the adjuster holder of the
"power jet" and release the cable into the
auxiliary pump.
Pull the carburetor up to remove it carefully

(looking for the best position to pass the
carburetor by the available space) to

completely release it from the reservoir of the Note: When washing the float chamber be
damper (if applied) and the frame beams. careful not to lose the O-ring, or take off the
gasket of the float chamber. Put your fingers
on top while blowing with compressed air.
With screwdriver, remove the main jet
(maximum) and the idle (minimum).
Carburetor disassembly
Wash the carburetor.
With a star key, remove the three screws
M4x12 PH.
With a 7mm key, remove the main diffuser of
the needle, and then also remove the diffuser
bushing to not lose it when you blow.
Remove the float chamber being careful not to

lose the O-ring seal on the pump fuel passage
of the auxiliary power jet.
Remove the float shaft / pin and remove the
float together with the respective conical
valve.

Disassemble the cable holder.

In the vat unscrew the three PH M4x8 screws
and remove the pump cover, followed by
disassembling the diaphragm along with the
spring.
Remove the pulley with the spring and the

nylon bushing as well as the arm / cam of the
power jet pump.
On the side of the float chamber gasket

remove the auxiliary pump pressure valve.
Remove the dust cover bellow the diaphragm

rod in the vat.
On the auxiliary pump cover, remove carefully

the valve composed by the injector, one
spring and a small sphere.

Pay attention to the correct position of these Remove the idling bolt with the spring.
parts during disassembly.
Inspect each of the jet power system
components.
Check for possible cracks, damage or if the
diaphragm is parched or with rust on the
stem.
Remove the cold start air lever (choke) by
unscrewing the PH M5x10 screw and drop the
plate / retaining spring.
Remove the air adjusting screw, being careful

not to lose the respective spring with the
washer and an O-ring which can sometimes
be retained inside the hole in the carburetor.
Be careful not to lose the positioning sphere

which is housed in air lever.

WASHING AND CLEANING THE

CARBURETOR
Make a wash and the most thorough cleaning
possible and blow out with compressed air
each part to remove all dirt and any residue
that may exist in the carburetor.
There should be paid special attention to the
residues that often are formed and
accumulate around the main diffuser and in
the respective carburetor hole.
Remove the jets and verify the calibration and

any damage.
Do not allow the gaskets, O-ring seals or dust

cover rubbers remain too long in contact with
the solvent used in cleaning the carburetor
parts, so they are not damaged. After washing
the parts, dry out quickly with compressed air. Clean the jets with fuel and compressed air to
Blow very well each hole and internal remove impurities.
conducts of the carburetor to eliminate Also remove the mixture adjusting screw.
completely any impurities that may clog the
carburetor and prevent their proper Remove and check the pin (1), the float (2)
functioning. and the needle (3) regarding the existence of
possible damage.
INSPECTION OF CARBURETOR
Check that the float chamber does not have
cracks or warping, or if the breather inner tube
is not broken. If necessary, replace the gasket
of the float chamber to assemble the set.
Remove the drain screw in the float chamber
and replace the sealing ring.
Check the operation of air butterfly.

 Check the weight of the float, if it is outside

the specified should be replaced.
 Also check possible wear on the tip of the
valve and also the settlement located in the
carburetor has excessive wear. If it is
found, replace the assembly.
 Float Weight: 10 gr (+-1 gr).
If you experience any of the above items,
replace the diaphragm.
Clean and blow with compressed air and
make the assembly in the reverse order.
Check each jets and confirm the diameter of
Ensure that there is no excessive wear on the the holes according to the specifications table
air butterfly pivot shaft and the respective for the carburetor that equips the bike model
spring, and that the screws are properly in question.
blocked.
Inspect the settlement of the conical valve in Note:

the carburetor body.
 In carburetors fitted earlier bikes from 2001
to 2011, the existing marking in the jets
may not match the real diameter, since
carburetors were intervened and jets were
modified in AJP Motos to obtain the best
regulation possible order to achieve more
efficient operation of the motorcycle.
 The PR3 / PR4 motorcycles produced
since 2012 (inclusive), the existing marking
in the jets match to the actual diameter of
the holes of the injectors in PZ30
carburetor, with or without power jet pump.
Notes:
 Check possible wear, cracks or leaks in the
float, it can cause excessive fuel
consumption.

Tighten the idle jet with a screwdriver without

damaging it.
Carburetor assembly
Enter the diffuser cap in the correct position,
and then assemble the needle of the diffuser.
Tighten the main jet with a screwdriver without

damaging it.
The diffuser cap shall be assembled with the

concave side facing down.
Assemble the conical valve in the float.
Then tighten the main diffuser with a 7mm

key.

Install the float assembly into the carburetor, Use a permanent marker pen to mark the
then entering the respective axis / pin. reference position of the air screw all tight,
and then turn the screw counter-clockwise
unscrewing it the turns needed to obtain the
correct adjustment, referring to the table of
specifications for carburetors.
Measure the level of the float with the

carburetor in the position shown in the picture,
and make sure that the level of the float is
14mm.
In the pump cover, install the components of
"power jet" into the correct position. First the
spring, the sphere and then finally the injector.
In the carburetor float chamber, assemble the
diaphragm followed by respective spring.
Install the air screw already with the spring,

the washer and the respective O-ring and
tighten the screw until it touches the end of
the stroke, but without forcing to avoid
damaging.

Install the pump cover and tighten their Assemble the float chamber to the carburetor,
respective three screws. making sure its correct fit. Tighten the vat with
the three PH M5x16 screws.
If the idling screw was removed earlier, install
now along with the respective spring.
Then assemble the rubber dust cover on the

stem and fit correctly.
Place the arm / cam power jet in the correct

position, not forgetting to install the two rubber
rings.
Enter the first rubber ring in the power jet cam
pin.
Ensure that the O-ring and gasket are

correctly placed in the float chamber, before
assembling it in the carburetor.
Assemble the arm / cam power jet pump in

the correct position.
You may need to apply contact adhesive (for

rubber) to be able to keep the float chamber
gasket in place.

Install the second rubber ring in the cavity of Fit if a metal support into position and tighten
the arm. the PH M5x12 screw. Verify proper operation.
Fit the spring on the pulley of the power cable Check the correct operation of the cam and
jet, followed by nylon bushing guide. the power jet arm in the carburetor.
Install the set in the respective pin on the right

side of the carburetor.

Choke lever: Check the correct operation of the choke

lever, in synchronization with the butterfly.
The retention of the lever must be made in
three predefined positions as:
- Air closed (switch up);
- Heating position (the lever in the middle);
- Open air (all switch down).
Carburetor aspect with cable in choke lever
actuated by a small lever located in the
dimmer switch on the left handlebar grip, used
in early models of PR4.
Place the washer plate in the air lever pin in

the carburetor body.
Install the choke lever, without forgetting its
sphere.
The plate / retaining spring is replaced by the

support for the cable, and on the tab is fitted a
spring to make the return of the lever of the air
at fully open position.
Carburetor adjustment
The adjustment should be performed after
Assemble the plate / retaining spring in the being made a thorough cleaning the
correct position and tighten the PH M5x10 carburetor. In order to allow a setting as
screw. accurate as possible, it is very important to
closely follow the technical specifications
recommended by AJP Motos, as shown in the
specification table for regulation of carburetors
(page 5-23)
Carburetor installation on the bike
Enter the carburetor a bit skewed to the left
side, with the choke lever turned for the shock
absorber.

mark on the pulley must be aligned with the

mark (dash) on the cable holder. If this does
not happen, adjust the adjuster in the cable
holder in the carburetor.
Note: This adjustment should be carried out
before fitting the carburetor on the intake
nozzle phalange on the bike.
Fit the carburetor in the intake nozzle pins and
tighten with the two M6 nuts without
exceeding the recommended torque, not to
bend the flange of the carburetor.
Install the throttle cable on the plunger and

insert the piston by aligning the piston groove
by the protruding guide which exists within the
hole in the carburetor. Tighten the piston cap.
Make sure all pipes are in good condition, and

in the correct position before installing the air
filter box.
Assemble the power jet cable and proceed to
adjustments in the adjuster until the marks
(lines) inside the metal support and the pulley
are aligned when the throttle is fully open.
The feeding tube with the fuel filter comes

from the suction pipe in the tank and must
pass between the carburetor and the power
jet cable, to not getting smashed against the
frame beam.
The pulley cable from the power jet pump has
a mark (dash) reference to the cable adjuster.
When the throttle is fully open, the raised

ENGINE START
Note: To prevent wearing the motorcycle
battery, can be beneficial to put the engine
running before finishing the installation of the
air filter box.
Pull the choke switch up to the third position.
With the hand cover the carburetor inlet hole
and start the engine until you feel your hand
wet with gasoline.
Remove the hand and start the engine again,
and if necessary open the throttle so that the
engine starts if it has a little soaked.
The return pipe must exit the T derivation and
Adjust the idle screw until the engine can idle
pass parallel to the rear extension of electrical
at the right revolutions.
wiring and between the beams bushing and
the shock absorber. This way you can put the engine running
without having to persistently insist with the
starter to get the fuel to reach the carburetor if
the air filter is already assembled on the
motorcycle without overloading the battery.
ADJUSTMENTS
Idling
To adjust the idling, start the engine and let it
heat up for a few minutes. Connect the
tachometer (rev counter) and check the idling.
If not within the specified, must be adjusted.
Idling: 1.400 rpm (+/- 100 rpm)
Check the connection position of the fuel The idle speed is adjusted by the screw (1).
pipes in the tank.

Note: In carburetors equipped with

acceleration auxiliary pump (Power Jet) the
access to the idling screw becomes more
difficult and may require the use of a small
specific tool (a handmade screwdriver, with
the necessary curves to access the idle speed
adjust screw), as can be seen in the following
figure.
By rotating the screw in a clockwise direction

decreases the amount of fuel (lean mixture),
by rotating in the opposite direction increases
the amount of fuel (rich mixture).
By rotating the screw towards clockwise

increases the engine rpm; if loosened, by
turning the screw in the anti-clockwise
decreases the engine rpm.
Note:
 The mixing screw is already adjusted from
factory but due to the pressure difference
related with altitude in some regions, it may
be necessary to adjust it according to the
needs.
 Close the mixture screw until it touches
their settlement (do not tighten).
 Loosen the mixture screw in 2 ¼ turns. If
Air / fuel mixture adjustment screw necessary, loosen or tighten the screw
from that initial adjustment.
The adjustment screw of air / fuel mixture is
located at the bottom of the carburetor, along  Mixing screw adjustment: 2 ¼ turns.
the inlet flange.
To be easier to access and adjust the air / fuel

ratio adjusting screw is recommended to use
a special tool as shown in the above figure
and should be identified in the following
similar figure.

Note: For technical reasons and specific

adjustment of the carburetor, we strongly
recommend that any work on the carburetor to
be performed only and only by an
experienced mechanic.
For improved regulation of the carburetors

should be consulted the following table that
meets the specifications of carburetors used
in AJP models.

SPECIFICATIONS OF CARBURETORS SET-UP (OLD VERSIONS)
Model /Version PR4 125 CPI PR4 125 ZS PR4 200 ZS PR3 125 PR3 200 (2009 PR3/PR4 200 MX PR3/PR4 France
(Year) (2001 / 2004) (2005 / 2007) (2005 / 2007) (2008 / 2012) / 2012) (2007 / 2012) (2010 / 2011)
SHENG WEI SHENG WEI SHENG WEI

Carburetor Walbro PZ30 Walbro PZ30 DE NI PZ30
PD5 (PZ27) PD5 (PZ27) PD5 (PZ27)
Venturi diameter 26mm 26mm 30mm 26mm 30mm
Main jet # 115 (# 118) # 95 # 120 # 95 # 95 # 110 # 110
Idle jet # 50 # 45 # 50 # 45 # 45 # 50 # 45
Air screw 1.5 turns 3/4 turn 2 turns 3/4 turn 1 turn 2 turns 1.5 turns
Needle Bridle st
1 slot 3rd
Piston Needle 125KA AAA 125KA AAA CO slot
Needle diffuser M7x M7x 5+5+2+2
Top diffuser Ø2,66 cylinder
Accelerator piston O1C Ø22 CO Ø24 O1C Ø22 CO Ø24
O-ring phalange 29x2,5 34x2 29x2,5 34x2 33,5x2,5
Float K 22-8 SF 172-2 K 22-8 SF 172-2
Valve seat hole Ø2,0mm
Float level 12mm 14mm
Conical valve float Ø5,2x17
Float axis Ø2,5x25
Power jet pump Yes
Rings in the arm - - 2 - 2
O-ring from the vat 4x1,5 4x1 4x1,5 4x1 4x1,5
O-ring air screw 2,5x1
O-ring on the drain 4x1,2
screw vatpipe
Breather 4x6,5x370
Air tab (choke) By cable Manual
Ring air tab - 5,3x9,8x0,9
Idling speed (rpm) 1400 (+/-100)

SPECIFICATIONS OF CARBURETORS SET-UP (CURRENT VERSIONS)
Model /Version PR4 Brasil (2011 / ...) PR3/PR4 (2013 / …)

(Year)
200 240 125 200 240
Carburetor DE NI PZ30
Venturi diameter 30mm
Main jet # 105
Idle jet # 48
Air screw 2,5 turns
Needle Bridle 3ª slot
Piston Needle CO
Needle diffuser M7x 5+5+2+2
Top diffuser Cylinder Ø2,66
Accelerator piston CO Ø24
O-ring phalange 33,5x2,5
Float SF 172-2
Valve seat hole Ø2,0mm
Float level 14mm
Conical valve float Ø5,2x17
Float axis Ø2,5x25
Power jet pump Yes
Rings in the arm 2
O-ring from the vat 4x1,5
O-ring air screw 2,5x1
O-ring on the drain screw vat 4x1,2
Breather pipe 4x6,5x370
Air tab (choke) Manual
Ring air tab 5,3x9,8x0,9
Idling speed (rpm) 1400 (+/-100)

ASSEMBLY SCHEMES
CARBURETOR
Please refer to parts list information regarding parts identification and part numbers.

Chapter 6 – Engine removal / installation
SERVICE INFORMATION 6–1 ENGINE INSTALLATION 6–6
ENGINE REMOVAL 6–2 ENGINE START 6 – 11
SERVICE INFORMATION
Specifications
SPECIFICATION
ITEM 3
125cm 200cm3 240cm3
Change / Replace 1 Liter 1,1 Liters 1,1 Liters
Engine oil capacity
Engine removal 1,1 Liters 1,2 Liters 1,2 Liters
Engine weight 29Kg 33,5Kg 34Kg
General Tightening torques

During removal and installation of the engine,
the motorcycle must be supported on a stand Shaft nut of the motor / swing arm: 93N.m
or box, with the wheels on the ground / floor. (9,5kgf.m)
A jig or adjustable support is needed to Screw / nut of the connecting rod to the
maneuver (disassemble / assemble) and frame / arm: 49N.m (5,0kgf.m)
repair the engine. Front engine fixing bolts (to the engine):
The following components can be handled 42N.m (4,3kgf.m)
with the engine installed on the frame: Front engine fixing bolts (to the frame):
 Oil pump; 26N.m (2,7kgf.m)
 Timing chain/tensioner; Lower fixing screw of the beams: 39N.m
 Clutch / star and gear selector, gear (4,0kgf.m)
lever;
Plate bolts to fix the drive pinion: 10N.m
 Alternator (stator, magnetic flywheel (1,0kgf.m)
and start-up clutch).
Drive pinion cover screws: 12N.m
The following components must be handled (1,2kgf.m)
with the engine out of the frame:
Gears pedal screw: 12N.m (1,2kgf.m)
 Cylinder head and valves;
 Cylinder and piston; Bolts and nuts fixing the oil cooler: 12N.m
 Crankshaft; (1,2kgf.m)
 Gearbox / forks / gears drum; Nut on the starter cable: 8N.m (0,8kgf.m)
 Kick start shaft.
Nuts on the carburetor flange to the intake
nozzle: 10N.m (1,0kgf.m)
Screws of the inlet nozzle: 10N.m
(1,0kgf.m)
Crankcase protection screws: 12N.m
(1,2kgf.m)

ENGINE REMOVAL
Remove the crankcase protection bolts (page
2 – 5);
Drain the engine oil (page 3 – 6);
Note: Support the motorcycle on a stand
or box, with the wheels on the ground /
floor before proceeding with the
procedures for removing the engine.
Remove the seat (page 2 – 3);
Remove the side covers (page 2 – 2);
Remove the air filter cover (only exists on
models with catalytic exhaust).
Loosen the fuel pipe at the pump, and place it
in the guide pin of the seat in order to get
more space;
Remove the piston cover (1) out of the
carburettor;
Unscrew the two M6 nuts (2) on the flange
and remove the carburettor;
Remove the air filter.
Remove the filter housing with the rubber tube

included; Note: In order to avoid removing the
throttle cable, the carburettor assembly
could be placed next to the right frame
beam.

Remove the vacuum pipe of the intake nozzle

and the inlet nozzle itself so as to ease
removal and installation of the engine. Engage 1st gear to block the pinion;
Unscrew and remove the screws on the drive
pinion;
Turn the pinion fixation plate until its teeth are

aligned by the splines of the secondary shaft,
so that it is possible to remove it.
Pull the drive pinion out of secondary shaft
and release the chain.
Remove the exhaust pipe and then the

exhaust tube (page 2 – 6);
Remove the gear pedal (1);
Remove the screws on the drive sprocket
cover;
Remove the drive sprocket cover (2).

Note: If necessary, loosen the nut of the

rear axle and loosen the adjusting screws
on tensioners to give clearance to the
chain and allow their removal in the drive
pinion.
Depart the protective rubber in the terminal

and loosen the nut on the starter cable
terminal;
Release the cable in the starter motor;
Cut the plastic clamp fixing the cable from the
rear stop switch to the wiring;
Disconnect the rear stop switch connector and
drop of the ring on the rear engine support; Unscrew the adjuster and remove the clutch
cable on the engine;
Remove the flange / record of the connecting

pipe to the secondary air pump (if it exists); Disengage the connector on the stator cable
Remove the spark plug cap; wiring (you may need to loosen the clamps in
the shock absorber reservoir to release the
cable);
Loosen the cable on the clutch lever;

Models with engines 200 / 240cm3 must be

also removed the following:
Right front grille;
Battery and battery holder;
Remove the two screws on the engine fixation

with the distance bushings;
Loosen the screws and remove the two

distance bushings to release the oil cooler in
the reinforcement fixation of the frame;
Unscrew the four screws and remove the

engine front brackets of the frame;
Remove the oil cooler (can remain with tight

tubes and come out together with the engine);
Unscrew 5mm the two lower fixing screws of

the beams to the cradle of the frame to give
clearance between the beams and the swing
arm;

case of 200 / 240cm3 engines) pass through

the frame tube.
Unscrew and remove the nut / shaft of the

swing arm;
Remove the connecting screw of the
Tilt the engine to the left so that the flywheel
suspension connecting rods;
cover is facing downwards;
Pull the engine out of the frame.
Pull the swing arm slightly back in order to get

out of the alignment of the rear engine
support; ENGINE INSTALLATION
Make assembly of the engine in the frame in
reverse order of removal;
Remove the engine from the left side;

With the left hand on the flywheel cover and Assemble the rear support in the engine, with
the right hand on the clutch cover grab the the roller chain guide.
engine, tilt the cylinder head back and
simultaneously turning it to the left, until the In the case of motor 200 or 240, the oil cooler
exhaust manifold bolt and oil tubes (in the should also be assembled and installed
together with the motor in the frame.

Enter the engine in the frame from the left

side;
Fit the arm with the nylon washers between
the frame beams and engine support;
Pay attention to place the engine in its correct

position, verify that the roller guide of the
chain is positioned below it, as can be seen in
the following figure. Apply a thin mass film on the shaft slide
surface of the swing arm;
Assemble the shaft of the swing arm with the
washer on the right side, put the nut with the
washer and tighten to the specified torque;
Tighten the front engine support bolts with the
Assemble the engine front brackets with the

longer end facing up, with the distance
bushings into position by the right holder (the
screws enter on the right side);

Tighten the two lower fixing screws of the

beams to the cradle of the frame, with the
Tightening torque:
Bolts and nuts fixing the oil cooler: 12N.m
Assemble and tighten the screw of the (1,2kgf.m)
suspension connecting rods, with the Assemble the clutch cable on the support and
specified torque value. the clutch lever and adjust the proper
Tightening torques: clearance.
Shaft nut of the motor / swing arm: 93N.m
(9,5kgf.m)
Front engine fixing bolts (to the engine):
42N.m (4,3kgf.m)
Front engine fixing bolts (to the frame): 26N.m
(2,7kgf.m)
Lower fixing screw of the beams: 39N.m
(4,0kgf.m)
Assemble the oil cooler, introducing the bolts
with the distance bushings according to the
position illustrated in the following image.
Note: For safety reasons, the clutch cable

should be placed in position and secured
with two plastic clamps as shown in the
following image.
Note: Make sure that the radiator will

never be placed flat against the cylinder
head to prevent any damage due to
vibration.

Assemble and tighten the exhaust manifold

and then the exhaust pipe (page 2 – 6);
Note: First point the screws and the nut
on the exhaust manifold before tightening
definitively in the cylinder head and the
right beam.
Place and tighten the starter cable in the
correct position;
Place the spark plug cap;
Connect the stator connector and place it in
the correct position with the fixing bracket (or
behind the shock absorber reservoir support
in the PRO version); Appearance of different types of nozzles / inlet
flange and the respective joint, used in
several models of PR3 and PR4.
Connect the rear stop switch connector and

put in its correct position on the ring of the
rear engine support;
Install the carburetor and place the vat drain
pipe in the proper position to avoid being
burned by the exhaust.
Install the inlet nozzle and connect the

respective vacuum pipe.

Place the battery (first connecting cables / red

wires in the positive terminal and then the
black cables / wires in the negative in last
place);
Assemble the right front grill.
Install the drive chain onto the drive pinion

Assemble the battery holder with the and assemble the drive pinion on the output
respective distance bushing in the upper
shaft;
fixation;
Assemble the flange / record of the
connecting pipe to the secondary air pump (if
it exists).

Fit the retaining plate on the output shaft and ENGINE START
align the holes by the pinion holes;
Finally and to complete the whole process
Note: Assemble the drive pinion with the must be followed the following procedure in
letters facing outwards. order to start the engine after it has been
Engage 1st gear and tighten the two screws installed on the bike's frame and before
with the specified torque value. assembling the air filter housing:
Start by closing the choke, raising the choke
lever to the third position;
Turn on the ignition key. The kill switch tab
should face the left side (to the "RUN");
Push start engine button to put engine
running;
Notes:
 Cover the entrance hole in the
carburetor with your hand until you feel
the palm wet with gasoline as the
starter is actuated;
Assemble the gears pedal in the desired  In case of flooding the engine with
position. excess gasoline, scroll down the air
Install the drive pinion cover and tighten the lever and open the throttle until the
screws with the specified torque value. engine starts.
Tightening torques: Reconnect the ignition and engage the starter
Plate bolts to hold drive pinion: 10N.m motor without accelerate until the engine
(1,0kgf.m) starts;
Drive pinion cover screws: 12N.m (1,2kgf.m) Keep the engine at idle speed for one or two
minutes to allow the oil to reach the entire
Gears pedal screw: 12N.m (1,2kgf.m) engine lubrication circuit.
After assembly, adjust the clearance of the Start an appropriate oil level verification (page
drive chain (page 3 – 21). 3 – 6);
Fill through the hole in the right crankcase Inspect if there are no oil leaks in the radiator
cover the correct amount of the recommended tubes and exhaust manifold, then turn off the
engine oil (page 3 – 6). engine;
Oil quantity required after disassembly of Montar a caixa do filtro de ar juntamente com
the engine: o tubo de borracha e de seguida o respetivo
 125cm3 engines: 1,1 Liters filtro de ar.
 200/240cm3 engines: 1,2 Liters

Assemble seat;
Assemble side covers;
Remove the motorcycle out of the stand /
support and assemble the sump protection, if
applicable;
Perform a dynamic test on the road to check
the correct operation of the motorcycle.

Chapter 7 – Cylinder head and valves
SERVICE INFORMATION 7–1 VALVE SEAT RECTIFICATION 7–9
REMOVING CYLINDER HEAD COVER 7–3 VALVES INSTALLATION 7 – 10
REMOVING VALVES ROCKER ARMS 7–4 TIMING CHAIN INSTALLATION 7 – 11
REMOVING CYLINDER HEAD 7–5 CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION 7 – 12

VALVE REMOVAL 7–5 CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION 7 – 14
REMOVING TIMING CHAIN 7–6 CYLINDER HEAD COVER 7 – 15

INSTALLATION
INSPECTION OF COMPONENTS 7–6
SERVICE INFORMATION Tightening torques:

GENERAL Cap nuts of the cylinder / cylinder head pins:
This chapter will focus on service in the timing 29N.m (3,0Kgf.m)
chain, camshaft, cylinder head, valves and Screws of the cylinder head cover: 12N.m
distribution. It is recommended to perform the (1,2Kgf.m)
services to all of these components after
removing the engine of the motorcycle, but if Screws of the camshaft cover: 12N.m
it is related to the distribution (chain, sprocket (1,2Kgf.m)
and tensioner), which can be performed with Timing sprocket screws: 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m)
the engine on the motorcycle.
Screw of the timing chain protection plate:
! WARNING ! 10N.m (1,0Kgf.m)
Working in a location with adequate Screw from the timing chamber: 12N.m
ventilation. Smoke or allow flames or sparks (1,2Kgf.m)
in the workplace or where gasoline is stored Bolts of the timing chain tensioner: 12N.m
can cause a fire or explosion. (1,2Kgf.m)
Care must be taken when performing all these Timing tensioner bolt: 5N.m (0,5Kgf.m)
operations not to damage the contact faces Pivot bolt of the timing tensioner guide: 10N.m
(both the cylinder head cover, cylinder head (1,0Kgf.m)
as well as the cylinder). Also taking care to
remove these components do not hit too hard. Adjustment nuts of the valve rocker arms:
15N.m (1,5Kgf.m)
All mentioned components after being
removed should be cleaned and dried for later Retaining plate bolt of the rocker arms shafts:
inspection. 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m)
Since the lubrication of the camshaft is carried Valve caps: 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m)
out through the oil passages in the cylinder Covers of the crankcase cover holes: 8N.m
head, they shall be thoroughly cleaned and (0,8kgf.m)
clear before making the assembly of the
cylinder head. Starter motor bolts: 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m)
Manual de Oficina AJP PR3/PR4 (2015) 7-1

SPECIFICATIONS
Service
limit
2
13,0kgf/cm
125cc engine -
(1275kPa 185psi)
Cylinder Compression in the cylinder
head 200cc engine 13,2kgf/cm2
-
240cc engine (1294kPa, 188psi)
Warpage of the cylinder head - 0,1
IN 0,05 -
Valve clearance
EX 0,08 -
IN 5,450 – 5,465 5,42
O.D. valve stem
Valves and EX 5,430 – 5,445 5,40
valve guides I.D. valve guide IN/EX 5,475 – 5,485 5,50
IN 0,010 – 0,035 0,08
Clearance on the guide - stem
EX 0,030 – 0,055 0,10
Contact face valve / valve seat 1,1 – 1,3 1,5
Valve Inside spring 39x17,5x12,5 37,8
Dimensions IN/EX
springs Outside spring 44,5x26,5x19 43,9
I.D. of the hammer 12,000 – 12,018 12,100
Hammers
O.D. of the hammer shaft IN/EX 11,966 – 11,984 11,930
valves
Clearance 0,016 – 0,052 0,084
125/200/ IN 31,58 30,60

240 EX 31,40 30,20
Height of the cams
Camshaft IN 32,70 31,80
240 Racing
EX 32,60 31,40
Warpage the camshaft 31,452 – 31,532 +- 0,1
125 4x98 Links -
Timing chain 200 7x100 Links -
Distribution 240 7x102 Links -
125 Z34 -
Timing sprocket
200 / 240 Z34 -

REMOVING CYLINDER HEAD

COVER
Remove the motorcycle engine (page 6 – 2).
Remove the two screws M6x22 along with the
support bushes and remove the starter.
Place the piston in the top dead center in the

compression phase and aligning the timing
control marks aligned with the existing
reference points on the cylinder head and the
dot in the stator wheel to the left crankcase
cover.
Loosen the screw / cover of the distribution

tensioner and the two cylinder head screws to
remove the timing chain tensioner.
Remove the two valve caps.

Remove the camshaft cover and the access
covers to the screw of the crankshaft and
engine timing.
Unscrew the four flange screws and the cap

nuts on the cylinder head cover and remove
the cover off the cylinder head.

REMOVING VALVES ROCKER

ARMS
After the removal of the cylinder head cover
and to remove the valves rocker arms that are
located in this cover, the following procedures
should be followed.
Remove the M6x20 screw that tightens the
retaining plate of both rocker arm shafts;
Unscrew the two screws on the camshaft

timing sprocket and disengaging the rack,
removing it then. The timing chain can be
maintained tied a string to not fall into engine.
Remove the shafts of the rocker arms (if

necessary screw one M6 screw at the top of
the shafts in case they are attached to pull
them out).
Remove the camshaft with the support

bushing on the right side without losing the pin
which can sometimes come off the bushing.
Remove all components like this.

REMOVING CYLINDER HEAD

Remove the spark plug;
VALVE REMOVAL
Unscrew the screw from the distribution Note: Use a special tool (valve springs
chamber with 6mm plate washer; compressor clamp) with appropriate
Remove the cylinder head. adapters on the removal and installation
of the valves in the cylinder head.
Compress the springs only what is necessary
to avoid causing damage to the valve springs.
Always replace the valves seals to prevent
excessive oil consumption and ensure the
correct operation of the engine.
Remove the clamps, remove the retaining
cover and remove the valves.
Note: Engines 200 and 240cc may need to

repeatedly move the cylinder head up and
down to allow removal of the rubber bushing /
seal ring rectangular in the front left cylinder
stud.
Remove the cylinder head gasket with the two
guide bushings.
Remove the springs and the two existing rings

at the base of each valve.
Remove the seals on the valve guides in the
cylinder head.

Remove the timing chain.

REMOVING TIMING CHAIN INSPECTION OF COMPONENTS
Remove the left crankcase cover.
Camshaft
Remove the stator.

Remove the stator wheel.
Manually rotate the bearing of the camshaft.
The bearing should rotate smoothly and
quietly. Also make sure that the inner race fits
with no gap in the camshaft.
Inspect the surfaces of the camshaft cams
about the bruises, scratches or evidence of
insufficient lubrication. Inspect the camshaft
oil holes for the presence of foreign materials.
Measure the height of each cam on the
camshaft.
Remove the pawl timing chain protection.

125/200/ IN 30,6 I.D. of the rocker arm

Service 240 EX 30,2 Service limit: IN/EX - 12,1mm
limit 240 IN 31,8
Racing EX 31,4
If any cam on the camshaft is damaged or

excessively worn, inspect the oil passages
and the valves rocker arms.
Rocker arms
The rocker arms of the valves are equal in
engines 125/200/240cc, both the inlet and
exhaust.
O.D. of the rocker arm shaft

Service limit: IN/EX - 11,93mm
Clearance
Service limit: IN/EX - 0,084mm
Chain tensioner / timing chain
The tensioner shaft, when pushed, shall not
penetrate into the body of the tensioner /
stretcher. Rotate the shaft (within the housing)
clockwise, using a screwdriver, the tensioner
Inspect the smooth surfaces of the rocker arm shaft must be pulled toward the body of the
and of the rocker arm shafts for damage or tensioner / stretcher. The shaft should jump
wear. out of the body of the tensioner / stretcher at
If it is verified any type of wear or damage on the same time the screwdriver is released.
these components should be inspected the
cams of the camshaft and the oil passages.
The measurements of the inner and outer
diameters as indicated in the figures shall
comply with the use limit specified, as well as
the subsequent calculation of the clearance
between both components.

Inspect the gear teeth of the camshaft and the Cylinder head
gear on the crankshaft for wear or damage.
Inspect the timing chain links and both chain Clean the cylinder head, removing possible
guides. carbon deposits from the combustion
chamber.
Note: Be careful not to damage the valve seat
or even the sealing gasket seating faces.
Inspect the spark plug hole and the area of
the valves on the existence of damage.
Check if the valves nicely slide on the guides
into the holes in the cylinder head without any
obstruction.
The timing chain should be replaced

whenever it shows excessive wear, trapped
links in joints or any other abnormal damage.
Note: Where the timing chain is replaced, it is
recommended that the rack camshaft also be.
Also inspect the teeth of the pinion gear on
the crankshaft for wear or damage.
Inspect the cylinder head about their warpage

using a ruler of precision and feeler gauge
between the bolt holes in the cylinder head.

Service limit: Internal 37,8mm

External 43,9mm
Valves and valves guides

Make sure that both valves are in perfect
condition and not show any defect, either
twist, either abnormal wear on the stem or the
hat in the contact zone with the seats in the
cylinder head. If any valve shows any wear or
abnormal defect should be replaced.
In the case of the valve guides should be
Service limit: 0,10mm checked regarding its wear and warping, by
passing the respective valve by the valve
Valve springs guide and checking if there is any prison in
the route.
Inspect the valve springs for their fatigue or
possible damage (folding).
O.D. of the valve stem

Measure the free length of the two springs Service limit: IN - 5,42mm
(internal and external), if any presents a
length less than the service limit should be EX - 5,40mm
replaced.
VALVE SEAT RECTIFICATION
If necessary, the valve may be rectified or
polished by hand using a suitable suction and
suitable grinding paste, following normal
procedures for performing these delicate
operations so as to obtain a perfect seal of
each valve in the cylinder head.

VALVES INSTALLATION
Place the two existing rings at the base of
each valve, then mount new seals at the end
of the valve guides.
Lubricate the seals the hole of the guides and
the stem of the valves to facilitate proper
installation.
Place the valves springs, with the side on
which the coils are closer together facing
downward, together with the retention caps.
Use the "valve springs compressor clamp"
Note: After rectifying the valves, always clean tool to compress each spring just enough until
up the cylinder head and valves, ensuring that you can assemble the clips on the retention
completely eliminates all and any residual caps on each valve stem.
abrasive slurry in order to avoid serious
engine damage.
This should be the aspect of the valves after
being rectified.
Note: When using the compressor clamp to

compress the valve springs, push only what is
necessary to allow assembly of the retaining
clips to avoid damaging the valve springs.
Carry out measurement to check if the contact At the end give some knocks with the plastic
is within specified range limits. hammer at the end of each valve to make
sure the clips are firmly and do not jump off.
Manual de Oficina AJP PR3/PR4 (2015) 7 - 10

TIMING CHAIN INSTALLATION the tab on the edge of the plate with pliers
until the correct position with the timing chain,
Tie a string on the chain to aid in assembly according the engine either 125 or 200/240cc,
and introduce it by the camshaft hole in the since the protection plates may not all have
cylinder head. the same format suitable.
Install the timing chain on the crankshaft gear, Note: The engines 125 / 150cc, the edge of
and keep it in tension with the string tied in the the protective plate must be aligned with the
engine crankcase hole. center of the timing chain links, but never
touch the chain.
In engines 200 / 240cc, the cover plate after
tightening in the crankcase, must be
assembled with the flap end from outside,
between the chain and the distribution pinion,
so that the base of the "elbow" is almost
leaning the chain, and act as protection to
prevent the timing chain jump off the sprocket
on the crankshaft if the rack is disassembled
on the camshaft.
Place distance washer on the crankshaft and

install the flywheel with the starter gear.
Note: Tie a string to the chain to keep it in
tension and prevent it from falling into the
engine or jump off the sprocket on the
crankshaft, as older engines may not have
installed the protection plate.
Fit the protection of timing chain, ensuring that
it is properly positioned so that never touch
the timing chain, but at the same time
preventing the chain to loosen the pinion if it
becomes loose or if the timing gear is
removed outside of the camshaft.
Install the gear / freewheel starter on the

flywheel.
Note: When installing a new chain protection,

you may need to adjust your profile, by folding

Assemble the flywheel on the crankshaft and Screws of the left crankcase: 12N.m
tighten to the specified torque to the (1,2kgf.m)
respective screw whether it M8 or M10.
Screw of the flywheel (M8): 26N.m
(2,7kgf.m)
Screw of the flywheel (M10): 39N.m
(4,0kgf.m)
Stator screws: 10N.m (1,0Kgf.m)
Pulse generator bolts: 5N.m (0,5Kgf.m)
CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION

Assemble the two guide bushings (10x20) and
install the cylinder head gasket on the
Assemble the double gear reduction starter cylinder, in the case of motor 125 / 150cc
with the respective washers. there are three guide bushings.
Then put the guide bearings and gasket and

lock the cover with the stator on the Note: In the engines 125 / 150cc not forget to
crankcase. mount an O-ring (10x1,6) on the bushing
Install the screws in the correct position, guide to seal the oil passage hole in the
taking into account their different lengths. cylinder pin / head back right cylinder.
Before proceeding with the installation of the
cylinder head to the engine, it is important to
check the correct tightening of the four
cylinder bolts in crankcases, using two nuts
M8 (nut and counter nut). The correct
tightening should be 29N.m (3,0Kgf.m).
Tightening torques:

it into the countersink existing on the surface

of the cylinder head assembling it over the
metal flange washer.
Observations: Only the motors 200 and

240cc require seal on the left front cylinder
bolt, to prevent water or mud pass through the
Assemble the tensioner guide of the timing
front opening existing in the cylinder head into
chain in the cylinder head and secure it with
the stud hole in the cylinder and cylinder
the respective pivot bolt with aluminum head. There are three different types of
sealing ring, tightening with the specific
sealing ring applied to the sealing bolt in
torque.
engines of PR3 / PR4 bikes:
1) In older engines 200cc (PR4-2005 /
2007) with cylinder rods of Ø 6.5 mm,
the seal was made with a rubber
bushing with tab in the middle, wherein
one end fitted on the pin hole at the
cylinder and other on the cylinder
head.
2) In 200cc engines that equipped the
first PR3 (2007/2009), the seal was
only a rubber washer (rectangular seal
14,3x6,5x2,5mm) that was lodged in
countersink existing on the surface of
the cylinder head.
Install the cylinder head (complete with 3) In the engines 200 and 240 cc most
valves) on the cylinder, while maintaining tight recent (with reinforced cylinder bolts
the timing chain not to jump outside of the with a diameter of 8.5mm) fitted the
correct position on the crankshaft. PR3 / PR4-200 / 240 (2011-2013)
there was an improvement in the form
of sealing this stud cylinder and it is
currently used a new rubber sealing
ring with an inner lip and
complemented with a special mounting
plate washer with tab on the sealing
ring both being housed at the
countersink existing in the cylinder
head.
Except few units, almost all of PR3 / PR4-

240cc engines (2013) are equipped with the
same cylinder head of the 200cc engines with
combustion chamber recessed / flat and
valves with a diameter smaller than the 240cc.
For engines 200 / 240cc, introduce the rubber
sealing ring on the left front cylinder pin, fitting

CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION
Place the piston at top dead center. In this
position, the two marks of the letters "F" and
"T" existing in the magnetic wheel are aligned
with the two projecting shaped marks "V"
existing inside the left crankcase.
Lubricate the bearings and put the camshaft

in the cylinder head with two eccentric lobes
facing down.
In the contact surface of the cylinder head

with the cylinder head cover there is a hole (at
the end of the lubricating channel) that should Notes:
be covered with a suitable rubber pin, in order
to avoid oil leakage and also to maintain the When installing on the camshaft take into
correct pressure in the lubrication circuit in the account the correct position of the bushing
cylinder head. support on the right side, which has to be
assembled with the facing side hole into the
side of intake, aligned with the existing slot
lubrication channel in the cylinder head. If the
bushing of the 200 / 240cc engines camshaft
is not in the correct position, the circuit of
lubrication will be blocked and will cause very
serious damage to the cylinder head.

Fix the timing gear on the camshaft with the

two hexagonal screws (M6x10 at the 125cc
engine or M6x12 for the engine 200 / 240cc)
and tighten with the specific torque.
The 240cc engines (2013 - ...) are already

equipped with support bearings on the
camshaft with a double hole, so that their
installation no longer requires careful
mentioned above, since the hole is always
aligned with the lubrication channel in cylinder
head.
Removing the wire or cord which helped in

assembling the timing chain, to assemble then Tightening torque: 10N.m (1,0Kgf.m)
the camshaft gear. Ensure that the engine timing is drived in the
Install the chain in the timing gear, making correct position.
sure that the two lines (reference marks) are
aligned parallel to the surface of the cylinder CYLINDER HEAD COVER
head and fit the gear in the shoulder of the INSTALLATION
camshaft.
Provisionally screwing the adjusters with their
nuts on the valves rocker arms.
Attach the two valves rocker arms and to
introduce the shafts of the rocker arms in their
respective holes in the cylinder head cover.
Note: in the timing gear of engines 125 /

150cc the only existing reference mark to
align the engine is an "O", which should be
placed at the top side, aligned with another
reference mark wedge-shaped 'V' existing Note: In 125 and 150cc engines the shaft of
outside the cylinder head. the inlet valve rocker arm is equal to the shaft

of the exhaust valve rocker arm, therefore Lubricate the shafts and the valve rocker
they can be mounted in either place. For 200 arms.
and 240cc engines, the shafts of the rocker
Put the two guide bushings (8x14) and place
arms of the valves are not equal, so it should
the cover on the cylinder head, making sure
be taken into account the differences between
that the bushing supporting on the camshaft
each one in order to install each shaft in the
has not left the position.
correct place.
Align the existing countersink at the end of
shafts of rocker arms of the valves and fit the
retaining plate, tightening it with the respective
flat head screw (star) M6x20.
Enter the copper washers and the four blind

nuts on the cylinder bolts / cylinder head, the
four screws on the cylinder head cover.

Uniformly apply a light liquid gasket film
(preferably gray silicone RTV) at the contact
surface of the cylinder head cover.
Then tighten the remaining four flange bolts in

the cylinder head cover. The tightening of the
nuts and cylinder head bolts must be done in
"X.
Tightening torques:
! WARNING !
Nuts of the pins in the cylinder head: 39N.m
Do not apply excess silicone to prevent (4,0kgf.m)
clogging the channel or lubrication holes in
the cylinder head cover, camshaft or the Flange screws M6: 12N.m (1,2kgf.m)
rocker arms shafts of the valves. Insert the screw of the timing chamber with
washer plate 6mm hole in the cylinder head.


There must be made a final check of the
engine timing by checking the points in the
Note: When the cylinder head cover is
stator wheel and the marks on the gear on the
removed and again after being installed
camshaft.
should be tuned by adjusting the valves to the
Place the tensioner of the timing chain with values specified in Chapter 3 - Maintenance,
the respective locking lever and tighten the page 3-13.
screws to the specified torque.
Finally it should be re-installed the starter,
putting the support bushings and tightening
the two M6x22 bolts to the specific torque.
Install spark plug.
Install intake manifold.
Install engine’s rear bracket.
So the engine is ready to be reinstalled on
motorcycle (page 6-6).

After being tightened must be removed the
chain tensioner locking lever, releasing it
against the chain tensioner guide and then
may be tight the top screw tightening with the
specified torque.

Chapter 8 – Cylinder and Piston
SERVICE INFORMATION 8–1 INSPECTION OF COMPONENTS 8–5

CYLINDER AND PISTON
TROUBLESHOOTING 8–2 8–8
INSTALLATION
SPECIFICATIONS 8–3 ASSEMBLY SCHEME 8 – 12
CYLINDER AND PISTON
8–4
REMOVAL
SERVICE INFORMATION
GENERAL
This section covers the removal and
installation of the cylinder and piston with the
engine removed out of the frame.
Gaskets and sealing segments used to
prevent oil leakage and ensure the correct
operation of the engine should always be
replaced.
! WARNING !
Working in a location with adequate
ventilation. Smoke or allow flames or sparks
in the workplace or where gasoline is stored
can cause a fire or explosion.
Be careful, to perform all these operations to

avoid damaging the contact faces (the upper
and lower faces of the cylinder) and the
cylinder wall and the piston. Also be careful
when removing components to not apply too
much strength on them.
All mentioned components after being
removed should be cleaned and dried for later
inspection.
Since the lubrication of the camshaft and the
rocker arms is made from the oil pump
through internal passages from the base of
the crankcase by the cylinder to reach the
cylinder head, these conduits and internal
holes must be thoroughly clean and
unobstructed before making the cylinder
assembly.

TROUBLESHOOTING
Abnormal noise:
Low compression, difficulty in starting or  Wrong valve clearance

inappropriate performance at low revs:  Excessive rocker arms or rocker arm shaft
wear
 Piston rings worn, broken or seized;  Worn camshaft or worn camshaft bearings
 Cylinder and / or piston worn or damaged. or bushings
 Valves  Piston pin seized or the hole of the piston
o Wrong valve clearance pin is wear out
o Burnt or warped valves  Piston rod seized
o Wrong valve timing
 Worn timing chain
o Valve spring broken
 Worn camshaft timing gear
o Irregular valve seat
 Worn valve stem end contact with rocker
o Warped vale in open position
arm
 Cylinder head
 Worn valve or broken valve spring
o Leakage in the cylinder head gasket
o Nut of cylinder / cylinder head studs  Worn valve seat
incorrectly tight  Cylinder, piston and piston rings worn /
o Warped contact surface seized.
o Incorrect tight of spark plug Smoke out the breathing tube in the
engine crankcase:
Very high compression, overheating or  Piston / segments or cylinder wall

pre-detonation: damaged.
 Excess carbon deposits on the piston head

or on the combustion chamber;
 Rectified cylinder head or changed
combustion chamber profile
Smoke excess from the exhaust:

 Valve seals are damaged;
 Improper installation of piston rings;
 Piston or cylinder rings worn or seized;
 Damaged valve stem sealing.

SPECIFICATIONS Unit: mm
Service
limit
125 56,50 – 56,51 56,60
Inner diameter
200/240 69,00 – 69,01 69,10
Inclination 15º –
Roundness – 0,05
Cylinder Warpage – 0,05
125 68,0 -
Cylinder height (between the lower 150 68,5 -
and upper surface) 200 70,2 -
240 77,2 -
Cylinder gasket thickness 0,50 -
Mark "IN" turn for
Direction of the piston mark admission
–
125 56,470 – 56,490 56,40

Outer diameter of the piston 150 (kit) 60,970 – 60,990 60,80
200/240 68,970 – 68,990 68,80
Clearance between cylinder / piston 0,010 – 0,040 0,20
125 15,002 – 15,008 15,04
I.D. of the piston pin hole
200/240 17,002 – 17,008 17,04
125 14,994 – 15,000 14,96
O.D. of the piston pin
200/240 17,994 – 17,000 17,96
Piston and Hole clearance between piston / pin 0,002 – 0,014 0,02
segments
Hole clearance between connecting rod / pin 0,010 – 0,034 0,10
125/150 1,0 -
Thickness of piston rings 200 1,0 -
240 1,2 -
Clearance of the rings in the piston Top 0,025 – 0,060 0,09
slot Secondary 0,015 – 0,050 0,08
Top 0,20 – 0,35 0,5
Clearance on the edge of the rings Secondary 0,35 – 0,50 0,65
Oil (rail side) 0,20 – 0,70 0,9
Grey (DY) On top -
Assembly position of the rings on
Black (D) Below -
the piston
Oil Facing the exhaust -
Offset between the ends of the cylinder rings 120º -

CYLINDER AND PISTON Remove the cylinder;

REMOVAL
The following procedures must be performed
with cold engine.
Note: It is necessary to remove the engine

out of the frame to remove the cylinder and
piston, particularly in the case of 240cm 3
engine.
Cylinder removal
Remove the engine (see Chapter 6);
Remove the cylinder head (see Chapter 7);
Remove the cylinder head gasket with the two Note: In some engines 200 and 240, it may
(or three in the case of some engines) guide be necessary to repeatedly move the cylinder
bushings of the cylinder head and the timing up and down to remove of the cylinder if the
chain guide. left front stud hole is very soiling. If you need
to hit the cylinder to detach it of the crankcase
use a rubber or plastic hammer with careful
not to break the fins.
Remove the bottom cylinder gasket. If it is
glued, can be removed with a chisel but very
gently, to avoid scratch the contact surface.
Remove the timing chain guide.
Remove the two cylinder guide bushings on

the base of the crankcases and the seal
gasket.
Piston removal
Note: A plastic / protection should be placed
beneath the piston to prevent the piston pin
circlip from fall inside engine crankcases
during removal and installation.
Using a pointy tips pliers remove the circlip
from the piston pin;

Note: Be careful to not open the rings too

much in order to not damage them.
Then push the piston pin out of it and out of Each ring must be marked to be installed
the rod too, taking out the piston. again in the right position, because used rings
may not have visible the marks on the surface
that must be faced upward.
Remove the gasket which can be glued to the
cylinder.
If necessary, a chisel can be used to remove
the seal but with care not to damage the
contact surface of the cylinder.
INSPECTION OF COMPONENTS
Cylinder
Check for possible wear or vertical scratches
on the cylinder wall, if it occurs, the cylinder
must be replaced along with the piston and
the rings.
Finally should be removed the piston rings, by

opening the ends to get out of the piston.

125cm3 56,60mm
Note: If the cylinder is rectified to assemble a
Service limit 200/240cm 3
69,10mm
larger piston, make sure that the clearance
between the cylinder and the new piston is Roundness 0,05mm
within the specified limits, to ensure the
correct operation of the engine. Reduced Piston / Rings
clearance may cause overheating of the
With the help of a micrometer measure the
engine and seize (merge) the piston in the
outer diameter of the piston skirt, as shown in
cylinder. Excessive clearance may result in
the picture.
excessive premature wear and loss of engine
power due to the low compression in the
cylinder.
With the help of a straight edge and feeler
gauge measure the warpage in the cylinder
surface.
Place the micrometer at the height indicated

in the dimension "a" around 6 mm from the
base of the piston (ideal reference to inner
edge).
Cylinder warpage limit: 0,05mm
The clearance between the cylinder and the
With the help of an internal micrometer piston is calculated as follows: Cylinder bore
measure the bore at three different points: at subtracting the external diameter of the
the top, the center and the base of the piston piston. Always use the highest measurement
stroke. Measure horizontally and vertically (X found in the three measured positions earlier
and Y axis) at 90º. in cylinder measurement.
125cm3 56,40mm
Service 150cm3 60,80mm
limit 200/240cm3 68,80mm
Clearance between
0,2mm
cylinder / piston
If the service limit of the piston diameter is
exceeded it must be replaced along with the
rings and can use the same cylinder if it
undamaged and its diameter is within the limit.
In the case of the cylinder is damaged or its
diameter is no longer in service limit, cylinder,
piston and rings must be replaced all together.

However, it is recommended that the cylinder

always be replaced together with the piston,
rings and piston pin with circlips
Then measure the outer diameter of the
piston pin. Also check their appearance if is
scratched or bluish. If so, replace the piston
and the pin, and check the lubrication system.
125cm3 14,96mm
Service limit
3
200/240cm 17,96mm
Top segment 0,09mm

Service
limit Secondary
segment 0,08mm
Install piston rings, each one at a time, inside

cylinder using the piston head to place rings
leveled.
Measure also the internal diameter of the Measure the clearance in the rings ends with
cavity of piston pin in the piston housing, the help of a blade gauge as shown in
using the maximum value found for following picture.
comparison with the specified service limit. If
exceeded this limit, the piston must be
replaced along with the respective pin.
125cm3 15,04mm
Service limit
3
200/240cm 17,04mm
Finally, in this control, calculation of the
clearance between the pin and the respective
pin housing in piston cavity must be made,
confirming also in this case if the clearance
respect the specified service limit.
Service limit of the clearance between If clearance is out of specified limits, rings
cavity / piston pin: 0,02mm
Then inspect the piston rings on the Top segment 0,5mm
smoothness of movement. If they are
obstructed they should be cleaned. Service Secondary
segment 0,65mm
limit
Subsequently, with the help of a feeler gauge,
measure the clearance of the ringsin their Oil segment
cavities in the piston housing. (rail side) 0,9mm
Note: Eliminate any type of coal in the ring Connecting rod

cavities to avoid any incorrect measures.
Note: Whenever it is verified that the service
limit of the piston pin or pin housing cavity in

the piston has been exceeded, it must be CYLINDER AND PISTON

inspected the inner diameter of the head of
the connecting rod which encompass the INSTALLATION
piston pin.
With regard to the inspection of the
connecting rod, more specifically its head,
which will also enter the pin of the piston shall
be checked if the hole have signs of wear /
seized or bluish.
Measure the inner diameter and then
calculate the clearance between this diameter
and the outer diameter of piston pin.
This clearance should not exceed the value of
the service limit. If it exceeds, it must be
replaced together with the pin of the piston
and the piston. If necessary, use a chisel to remove any
residue of the old gasket between the two
crankcases and completely clean the contact
surface, always being careful not to damage.
Use limit of clearance between O.D.

connecting rod head and O.D. piston pin:
0,10mm
Apply a bit of silicone on the area of the

gasket in the middle of the crankcases to
ensure proper sealing.

Blow with compressed air in the oil passage  Do not reverse the marks in the first two
hole in the base of the right crankcase to segments;
ensure that it is unobstructed.  When installing the oil segment, must be
Install the two guide bushings (10x16) on the installed first the spacer ring and only after
timing chain side studs and put the new the two side rings.
cylinder gasket at the base of the crankcases. Tips of the rings must be with 120°
discrepancy between each one
Piston assembly
Place a plastic / protection beneath the piston
to prevent the piston pin circlip to fall inside
the engine crankcases.
Ensure that the oil passage hole for the

cylinder head lubrication near the back right
pin is not obstructed.
Piston
Piston rings
Must be installed carefully all rings in their Lubricate the hole in the head of the
respective cavities in the piston, always connecting rod and the pin of the piston.
keeping their marks facing up.
Lubricate the pin and insert it into the piston

Rings must be assembled on the piston in the hole.
correct position: Oil segments (with expander)
below; compression ring (black) in the middle;
fire segment (chrome plated) on top.
Notes:
 When placing the rings must be careful
not to damage them or damage the piston;

Piston must be aligned with the head of the Remove protection plastic and adjust piston
connecting rod, taking into account that the rings to its correct position.
mark “IN” is facing the intake side. Piston pin Piston ring ends must be with a 120º
may be lightly greased and then introduced mismatch between them. In the case of oil
into the piston through the piston head and rings, the ends can face exhaust, away 40
piston rod. mm.
CYLINDER INSTALLATION
Note: Be careful when placing the piston in
the cylinder to avoid damaging the segments
or the cylinder walls.
If the timing chain is installed on the
crankshaft gear, when installing the cylinder, it
must be passed by the timing chamber hole
and held in tension with a string or wire tied,
preventing it from falling into the crankcase or
jump out of gear on the crankshaft.
Apply engine oil on the cylinder walls and the
outer surfaces of the piston and segments to
Then should be introduced the respective ease installation.
circlip in its cavity in the piston, preventing the
piston pin go out of his place.
After piston pin installation check that each
circlip is perfectly placed in piston housing
and with the circlip ends away from the cut.
Note: The tips of this circlip should be away
from the existing cut in the piston to ease
removal and should be checked that the
circlip placement was well done without pin
prisons.
The cylinder must be assembled on the piston

while at the same time manually compressing
each segment carefully to avoid damaging

them until the complete introduction and the

cylinder mating on the engine crankcase
base.
Rotate crankshaft to move piston inside
cylinder and clean the excess of oil inside
cylinder, while keeping the timing chain in
tension, if already in place.
Install timing chain guide, making sure that is
properly seated in the housing cavity in the
crankcase.
Install bushing guides and cylinder head

gasket over the cylinder.
Note: 125/150 engines use three guide
bushings and an O-ring 10x1,6 at the right
rear stud at the cylinder.
Proceed with the cylinder head installation,
Chapter 7.
Proceed with the engine installation, Chapter
6.
Install the cylinder head gasket with the two

(or three, for some engines) guide bushings of
the cylinder head and the other timing chain
guide.
In the case of 125/150 engines, an O-ring

10x1,6 must be placed to the oil pass at the
guide bushing of right rear stud at the
cylinder.
Install timing chain guide, certifying that it is
perfectly fitted in the crankcase housing.

ASSEMBLY SCHEME

Motor Zongshen ZS156FMI-2A

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Motor Zongshen ZS156FMI-2A

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Chapter 1 – General information / Technical specifications

GENERAL SAFETY AND 1–1 FUEL FEED SYSTEM 1 – 23

MODEL IDENTIFICATION 1–3 STEERING STEM 1 – 25

GENERAL INFORMATION 1–4 FRONT SUSPENSION 1 – 26

MOTORCYCLE DIMENSIONS 1–5 REAR SUSPENSION 1 – 34

ENGINE 1–6 WHEELS AND TYRES 1 – 36

CLUTCH 1 – 14 BRAKE SYSTEM 1 – 40

BEARINGS, SEALS, WASHERS 1 – 18 ELECTRIC SYSTEM 1 – 43

ALTERNATOR 1 – 20 TIGHTENING TORQUES 1 – 47

STARTER MOTOR 1 – 21 LUBRICATION POINTS AND 1 – 53

- Clean quickly spilled fuel;

Service Manual AJP PR3/PR4 1-1

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! DANGER ! To avoid risk of explosion, open the valve

Brake dust 1. Use only components and lubricants

Service Manual AJP PR3/PR4 1-2

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MODEL IDENTIFICATION Approval plate

Service Manual AJP PR3/PR4 1-3

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Full advance of spark angle 30o BTDC (4.000 +/- 100rpm)

Gap between the electrodes 0,6 - 0,7mm

Gear box 5-speed

Service Manual AJP PR3/PR4 1-4

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Fuel supply Carburetor

Element PR4-EN/TR PR4-SM PR4-SM-M

Element EN/TR SM EXTREME

Service Manual AJP PR3/PR4 1-5

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Element Item Specification Service

Oil pump Clearance in the tip 0,15 0,20

Service Manual AJP PR3/PR4 1-6

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Tightening of the screws fixing the

Screw M10 (or M8x1)

CYLINDER HEAD / VALVES / VALVE MECHANISM

Service Manual AJP PR3/PR4 1-7

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O-ring on the cap guide (125cc) 10x1,6mm –

Service Manual AJP PR3/PR4 1-8

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125/150 IN/EX Passing fillister –

Service Manual AJP PR3/PR4 1-9

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CYLINDER AND PISTON

Service Manual AJP PR3/PR4 1 - 10

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Oil (rail side) 0,20 – 0,70 0,9 mm

Gap between the ends of the cylinder segments 120º -

Element Specification Service

Service Manual AJP PR3/PR4 1 - 11

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I.D. Hole of the connecting rod top side 17mm 17,08mm

Service Manual AJP PR3/PR4 1 - 12

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Final transmission By chain -

Chain PR3 428H – 124 Links -

Service Manual AJP PR3/PR4 1 - 13

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Gear shift drum

Item Specifications Service limit

Service Manual AJP PR3/PR4 1 - 14