MAKING, USING AN ELECTROPLATING BRUSH

By Gerald L. Wykoff GG CSM Ph.D

) 2007 Gerald L. Wykoff. All Rights Reserved. This ebook publication or any portion thereof may not be copied, duplicated, re-distributed and re-sold in any form without the written permission of the copyright owner, Gerald L. Wykoff

METAL PLATING BRUSH

Every jewelry bench worker should have one. Certainly, it's almost in the "must have" category for wire jewelry workers. Yet an electro plating brush tool seldom shows up in the working area of these artisans. It's a shame, too, because few metal treatments will put an incredibly beautiful finish on a gold surfaced piece of jewelry as will a "flash coating" after work has been completed on a new jewelry creation. Cost isn't the issue: you can make a DIY gold plating brush setup for less than $50 ad then marvel at the exciting finish that your jewelry pieces display. It appears that the only reason a plating brush is absent from the jewelry making process is that most workers simply haven't thought about it. Ever wonder how a jeweler got such a brand new finish on that ring you took in for re-sizing? Chances are, when the bench worker finished polishing the ring, s/h cleaned it good and then gave the article a quick, easy 24K quick flash plate. What the plating did was apply a brand, new 24K finish on your old polished ring. It looked new because the 24K coating was indeed brand new. Jewelers call this artful dodge, smart promotion. Every jewelry worker including wire artisans - should consider doing the same.

Build a Metal Plating Brush . . .

In this short ebook tutorial you'll learn not only how to make a metal plating brush but also how to use it . . . whether you're plating gold, silver, copper, nickel or even chrome. For interested readers, too, there are some helpful comments on use and theory of the metal plating process. The photograph below shows a complete plating setup that the author has used for the past 30 years.

An effective m etal plating brush setup consist of only a few items, starting top l. to r.: a supply of metal plating solution, a 6-volt power sou rce, a b rush electrode , a wo rk pie ce (jew elry ite m to be p lated ), and a small re-plenishing supply of the same plating solution.

I use the above setup mostly for nickel and chrome plating because nowadays I work a lot with copper, steel, nickel as well as 14K GF and silver plated wire. To switch the plating operation with these various metal types, I merely change the solution used (admittedly, I often also change to a different metal brush to gain better results with some of the metals. This step is called changing the electrode). Here's what you'll need to make a metal plating brush: < a " x 5" thin strip of stainless steel < a few inches of medical gauze (preferably " wide) < a roll of some plastic wrapping tape (about " wide) < a small battery adaptor/charger unit with 6v output - or a simple 6 volt dry cell battery < two one-foot lengths of 20-gauge insulated copper wire < two copper-brass electrical alligator clips < a rubber band (or some " wide masking tape) < a supply of the non-cyanide plating solution of your choice* *Most professional platers use solutions that contain cyanide acid, a chemical capable of producing lethal cyanide gas, because they work better. Avoid cyanide based chemicals in favor of the safer albeit slower non-cyanide solutions. It's optional, of course, but a supply of Blue Begone metal polish (available at any auto supply store) comes in handy for cleaning off metal surfaces that are due for plating. In plating, cleanliness of the tool and the work pieces is paramount.

A trip to the local hardware store will turn up most of the materials required. As for plating solutions, there are a couple of reliable sources listed at the end of this ebook where you can obtain smaller orders of plating solutions.

How to Make a Plating Brush Tool . . .

Heres the simple procedure for making a metal plating brush. First, youll make whats called the electrode - the electrical power conducting element. Drill a small hole in one end of the strip (this will allow you to insert and twist tight one of the electrical wires coming from the power source.) Then use a pair of pliers to bend up at approximately 30 the first inch of one end of the 1/2"x5" stainless steel strip. If youre using a 3/16" or 1/4" OD tube, first hammer flat an inch of one end and then turn the flat piece at the same angle.

Again, if youre using a tube, peel the insulating cover off the wire so you have a 4" long bare wire. Hammer the wire flat for about an inch and then insert the wire through the tube so the flat wire end will lie inside the tube area thats also to be hammered flat. It isnt really necessary, but a touch of solder will provide for a permanent attachment between the wire and the electrode. Then hammer the tube end flat so the wire is captured securely.

Flatten the wire so it wont interfere with the flattened end of the tube, then insert the wire through the tube all the way to the end of the flat tip. Then

flatten the tip firmly.

You want a flat angled surface for the brush. Therefore, bend up about 1 inch of the end of the strip or tube, bending at approximately a 30 angle.

For th e bru sh e lectro de y ou can u se e ither a stain less ste el strip (l.) or a 1 /4" OD copp er tube. Bend about 1" of the end of the strip or tube up at an angle of approximately 30 for easier brushing action. The tube , of course, will need to be hamm ered flat so it can be turned up and u se for brushing.

Starting at the bend, wrap the strip or tube with the insulated tape, continuing the tape wrap about an inch or two beyond the metal so the wire is also secured to the metal.

The gauze should cover the entire flat angled tip of the electrode and then be secured with a rubber bad (preferred) or some sticky masking tape.

Wrap Gauze Around the Flat End . . .

Loosely wrap a couple inches of the bandage/gauze around the flat end of the

electrode - as if you were bandaging a finger wound. Dont wrap too tightly because the metal plating solution must later saturate the gauze while coming in contact with the metal electrode. Secure the gauze in place with a rubber band or some masking tape.

Your plating brush is finished!

Hook Up Brush and Begin Plating . . .

The only remaining task is to hook up the brush properly to the power source. For plating, the wire from the electrode is attached to the negative terminal of the power source or the battery post. The other wire from the power source (the positive lead which features a copper alligator clip) is attached to the workpiece. THE PLATING METAL FLOW RUNS IN THE ELECTRICAL CURRENT DIRECTION WHICH IS FROM NEGATIVE TO POSITIVE.

exhausted when it slows down on the plating action. Making certain the two tips and/or wires dont touch each other and cause a short, plug the adaptor into a 110-volt power outlet - or, alternatively, attach the appropriate wires to the batterys posts. You wont get current flow until you atually complete the

circuit by touching the brush to the work piece.

To conserve and protect your main plating solution supply, fill up a small cup of plating solution in a tiny cup. Then use this small cup supply to replenish the gau ze. T he b rush picks u p ox ides and contam inate s that will go in to yo ur m ain solution supply if you use the latter for replenishing.

The Workpiece MUST be Clean . . .

Remember: the workpiece must be thoroughly polished and clean, untouched by your hands after cleaning. After polishing, rub the article briskly with the Blue Bygone paste and wipe off. Some platers prefer to strip the workpiece before the plating process. I dont recommend this thorough cleaning process with gold filled wire, but its done by: 1) reversing the electrical setup (the workpiece is hooked up to the negative lead and a copper strip is attached to the positive lead, and then 2) conducting the process in a bath of regular electro stripping solution

The Procedures For Brush Plating . . .

Keeping a good grip on the plating solution bottle, allow the brush tip to soak in the solution for 15-20 seconds - until its completely soaked through. Using a soft, constant, stroking technique, wipe the brush over the positively charged jewelry article. Avoid stopping or pausing in one place: youll usually cause a burn spot if you do. With a " wide brush, you should cover 1 sq. in. per minute. Keep an eye on your progress. Youll see the plating action evidence in about 30 50 seconds. After just a few seconds, youll also notice that the plating rate is slowing down. This is because youve exhausted the solution in the brush tip. Refresh the tip by soaking it in the small solution container. Continue to brush plate and refresh until youve finished - or the small container is exhausted. Refill the small cup if you need more solution. By this time, the brush will have enough oxides on it that dipping in the main solution bottle could impair your entire supply.

Some Tips and Techniques on Plating . . .

Its particularly prevalent with silver, but if you notice black streaking or spots in the plated surface you should speed up your brush action and press down a bit harder. Keep passing over the spots and theyll ultimately disappear. Keep in mind that you get a deeper, richer metal color when you keep brushing over previous plating. Slow down the brushing after you get the initial color with faster brushing: slow brushing promotes thickness. Its essential that you keep a close eye on the gauze covering. Should the cloth wear away and the electrode actually touch the work piece, it would cause a short circuit that will burn the work piece. Get in the habit of changing the gauze brush on a regular basis. Youll notice that its getting time to change the gauze covering because the plating action and time will induce the gauze to become soiled with a green substance. Warmth is a good friend of the plating process: it dramatically increases plating speed and reduces power needs. To obtain more consistent, faster results, consider: < warming the plating solution to about 150 (use the microwave for 20 seconds) water) < warm the workpiece in hot water < test the work piece that its not lacquered or painted with clear polyurethane by knife scraping in an out-of-sight location < consider coating your article yourself with lacquer or polyurethane which enhances color, protects against water and toughens the surface < when youre finished plating, wash the article with water and detergent and then rinse. < for plating small jewelry items, a 6-volt power output is desirable. Youll find that a 12-volt supply is better for stripping. < after each plating session, remove and wash the gauze - and check the electrode metal carefully. If you detect any oxide buildup on the metal, remove it with a metal brush, emery cloth or steel wool - if silver plating, realize that silver requires less electrical power than any other plating solution. Estimate the brush tip area and area of the article and, to equalize the two, add a silver item to the positive lead if necessary.

Techniques For Plating Nickel and Silver . . .

Square Wire jewelry making utilizes heavy gauge nickel wire. It doesnt take much to diminish the surface of this relatively soft metal. Nickel - even chrome - plating a finished square wire piece produces a dramatic improvement. The procedure is identical - with a couple of minor exceptions - to the gold plating process already described. A major exception is this: go over the clean, finished piece twice, each time using a different brushing direction. Tip: You can apply a brilliant chrome plating to nickel directly. Use the same procedures already described but with slightly heavierpressure on the brush.

Be prepared also to spend a little extra brushing time when plating with nickel solution. Along with most chrome solutions, it just takes longer, sometimes up to 5-10 minutes to get a good, uniform coating. The first time you use this inexpensive little brush plater on a piece of your jewelry and then see it dramatically brought up to exciting metallic life, youll bless the little time and investment you devoted to having such a wonderful tool in your workshop. Happy plating!

THE END