Perfect Textiles

For WOVEN FABRICS (HOMETEXTILES) CONSTRUCTION , mean the following ENDS (REED) X PICKS / WARP COUNT X WEFT COUNT Before discussing about construction please note the concept of WARP AND WEFT. There are two kinds of yarn used in the weaving of fabric, one yarn is along the length of the fabric and other yarn is the along the width of the fabric. Both these yarn crosses each other and are weaved on the looms. The direction of length and the direction of width are normal (perpendicular) to each other and in the same way the both yarns are normal to each other. WARP The yarn, which is along the length of the fabric, is called as the WARP. WEFT The yarn, which is along the width of the fabric, is called as the WEFT. The direction of length of fabric and the direction of width of fabric are normal (perpendicular or at 90 degree angle) to each other and in the same way the both yarns WARP & WEFT are normal to each other which crosses each other by weaving. The construction of every fabric is depend on the following (or fabric means the following): 1) the NUMBER of threads (yarns) 2) the THICKNESS of the threads (yarns) by changing these two NUMBER & THICKNESS constructions of the woven fabric and we can manage changing any one of these NUMBER & THICKNESS THICKNESS the construction of the

we can change the any type of fabric by or both NUMBER &

NUMBERS are corresponds to ENDS & PICKS THICKNESS are corresponds to COUNT (WARP COUNT X WEFT COUNT) ENDS : this is also called as REED, this means the number of WARPS threads (yarns) in one inch area (in some scale the number of threads in one cm length), in other words the number of threads in one inch area which are along the length of fabric (Warp) or simply number of Warps in one inch is called as ENDS (REED) PICKS: this means the number of WEFTS threads (yarns) in one inch area (in some scale the number of threads in one cm length), in other words the number of threads in one inch area which are along the width of fabric (weft) or simply number of Weft in one inch is called as PICKS. COUNT: This is the scale of measuring the thickness of the yarn Count is corresponds to just a number (there is no any unit with this number, for example in case of measuring length we say as 5 kilometer, 70 meter etc. this means that there is some unit as kilometer or meter is along with some number but in case of COUNT there is only one number, that shows the thickness of the yarn) The system for measuring the thickness of the yarn is an INDIRECT system If the count number is HIGHT the thickness of the yarn is LESS (thin) &

If the count number is LESS the thickness of the yarn is HIGH (thik) This means that the yarn of count 10 is thicker than the yarn of count of 20, The yarn of count 40 is more finer (thinner) than the yarn of count 30 WARP COUNT The thickness of Warp yarn (which is along the length of the fabric) is called as Warp Count WEFT COUNT The thickness of Weft yarn (which is along width of the fabric) is called as Weft Count Now we take some examples as follows:
76x56/35x35 Ends 76 Picks 56 Warp count Weft count 128x60/20x16 Ends 128 Picks 60 Warp count Weft count

35 35

20 16

some time some business peoples write the construction in this way as
WARP COUNT X WEFT COUNT / ENDS (REED) X PICKS or ENDS (REED) X PICKS / WARP COUNT X WEFT COUNT 76x56/35x35 or 35x35/76x56 128x60/20x16 or 20x16/128x60

it is with the practice or knowledge to you can understand about the construction WEIGHT OF THE FABRIC There are two kinds of weight Gram per linear meter [of any specific width] (gm/m) Gram per square meter (gm/m2 or GSM) Gram per linear meter [of any specific width] (gm/m) Ends + Picks X 0.623 X Width in inches = gram per linear meter Warp count Weft count a) The fabric of quality with construction 76x56/35x35 of width 95 (width in inches) 76 + 56 X 0.623 X 95 = 223 gram per linear meter 35 35 so the weight of one meter fabric with width 95 of the quality with construction 76x56/35x35 is 223 gram per linear meter. b) The fabric of quality with construction 128x60/20x16 of width 59 (width in inches) 128 + 60 X 0.623 X 59 = 373 gram per linear meter 20 16 so the weight of one meter fabric with width 59 of the quality with construction 128x60/20x16 is 373 gram per linear meter. Gram per square meter (gm/m2 or GSM) Ends + Picks X 0.623 X 39.37 = gram per square meter Warp count Weft count a) The fabric of quality with construction 76x56/35x35 76 + 56 X 0.623 X 39.37 = 92.50 gram per square meter (GSM or gm/m2) 35 35 so the GSM or gm/m2 weight of quality with construction 76x56/35x35 is 92.50GSM or gm/m2 b) The fabric of quality with construction 128x60/20x16

128 + 60 X 0.623 X 39.37 = 248.95 gram per square meter (GSM or gm/m2) 20 16 so GSM or gm/m2 weight of quality with construction 128x60/20x16 is 248.95 GSM or gm/m2 Gram per square meter (gm/m2 or GSM) is more important in the business as the weight (GSM) of the fabric signify the quality of the fabric. In some case the weight is measured in OUNCE PER SQUARE YARD (OSY) To get OSY please multiply the GSM by a constant 0.0295 OSY = GSM x 0.0295 e.g. if GSM is 92.5 then OSY would be 2.72 oz/y2 GSM is 248 then OSY would be 7.31 oz/y2 WIDTHS There is two types of widths of fabrics One is Grey width Other is Finish width When there is the business of Grey fabric. (Grey fabric is also called as LOOMSTATE fabric as this is raw fabric which just prepared/weaved on looms and this grey fabric is without any process) Then we are dealt with only Grey fabric width as the customer will ask for only width that means the grey fabric width. When there is a business of PROCESSED FABRIC (PRINTED/DYED/BLEACHED ETC.) then there is two widths are considered. The customer will only ask for one width in his inquiry, which means the finish width. Please note that when a grey fabric is processed for the end product of printed, dyed or bleached fabric etc. then during processing the width of fabric is shrunk (reduced by generally about 3 to 8% depend upon the quality of fabric, cotton or polycotton etc.) for example if the grey width is 98 inches then after the processing the same fabric will have the finish width of 95 inches. The 100% Cotton products have more tendencies to shrink (normally about 5-8%) where as the polycotton shrink about (normally about 3-5%). BLEND OF FABRIC Most commonly the fabric may be either
100% cotton or Polycotton

If Polycotton (may be called as briefly P/C or T/C) this means the mixture (blend) of both Polyester & Cotton. There what is the ratio of Poly (means polyester) and Cotton in that fabric. Normally following are the main Bend Ratios of Polycotton.
Polycotton (50:50) [means 50% polyester and 50% cotton) Polycotton (52:48) [means 52% polyester and 48% cotton) Polycotton (55:45) [means 55% polyester and 45% cotton) Polycotton (60:40) [means 60% polyester and 40% cotton) Polycotton (65:35) [means 50% polyester and 50% cotton)

COMMON CONSTRUCTIONS OF 100% COTTON

60X60/21X21 60X60/22X25 52X52/21X21 76X68/30X30 100X80/40X40 (this constructions is called as Percale) 133X72/40X40 (this constructions is called as Satin) 40x42/20x10 (this constructions is called as Flannel)

COMMON CONSTRUCTIONS OF POLYCOTTON

76X56/35X35 76X44/35X35 76X56/30X30 76X68/30X30 96X76/38X38 60X60/21X21 60X60/22X25

100X80/40X40 (this constructions is called as Percale)

LOOMS A fabric is weaved on different kind of looms and the costing factor is very much related with the nature of loom at which that fabric is weaved. Every quality of fabric is decided based on its construction and the end product quality it is decided that specific grey fabric would be weaved on which kind of loom. Better the quality of fabric the higher the cost of weaving (depend upon the fabric is weaved on which kind of loom). There are different kinds of looms as follows: Power loom (most traditional loom) the most substandard quality of fabric [less price] Auto loom (automatic loom) better fabric than Power loom [more price than Power loom] {The above both looms Power & Auto looms are operated with Shuttle, that is whey these looms are called Shuttle looms} {The following Sulzer loom & Air Jet looms are operated without any shuttle and the quality of fabric is better in these shuttles looms as compare to shuttle looms (power and auto looms). Sulzer loom & Air Jet looms are called as shuttle-less looms, as they have no shuttle} Sulzer loom (most commonly also called as shuttle-less loom) these loom are operated with the very small projectile, have very fine weaving and good quality of fabric. This is costly as compare to Auto loom and much costly as compare to Power loom) Air-jet loom (finest quality of fabric is weaved on these looms and the highest cost is also for this loom, the fabric is weaved with the air pressure.) Normally customer inform about the Loom in his inquiries but even if they do not inform us in the inquiry we do not ask for the loom and we decide our self for the type of loom which is suitable for that fabric looking at the quality of the fabric. WEAVE There are many kinds of weaves and most common weave is Plain weave. PLAIN WEAVE (1/1) Normally most of the fabrics are of plain weave (means 1/1).
The woven fabric is kind of network. The weft yarn passes over and under the warp yarn one by one, as one weft passed over the (first) warp and then this weft passes under the next (second) warp and then again this weft passes over the further next (third) warp, and then again this weft passes under the fourth warp and so on and in this way the fabric is weaved and this weave is called the Plain weave and is denoted by weave 1/1 (as one thread passes over the other thread and then that thread passed under the next thread one after the other regularly).

TWILL WEAVE (2/1) of (3/1)

If the weft yarn is passed over the two warps (first & second) and then this weft is passed from under the next one (third) warp and then again this weft is passed over the next further two warps (fourth & fifth), and then again this weft is passed from under the sixth (one) warp and go on and in this way the Twill fabric is weaved and this weave is called the Twill weave and is denoted by weave 2/1 (as one thread is passed over the TWO warps and then is passed from under the next ONE thread regularly) OR Twill weave is also denoted by weave 3/1 (as one thread is passed over the THREE warps and then is passed from under the next ONE thread regularly)

As the result of this twill weave there is sort of diagonal lines in the self of fabric that are prominent by look. SATIN WEAVE (4/1)
If the weft yarn is passed over the FOUR warps (first, second, third & fourth) and then this weft is passed from under the next one (fifth) warp and then again this weft is passed over the next further FOUR warps (sixth, seventh, eight, ninth), and then again this weft is passed from under the next one (tenth) warp and

go on and in this way the Satin fabric is weaved and this weave is called the Satin weave and is denoted by weave 4/1 (as one thread is passed over the FOUR warps and then is passed from under the next ONE thread regularly).

YARN The yarns can be classified into two types due to quality:Combed Yarn & Carded Yarn Combed yarn is fine quality yarn but Carded yarn is less fine than combed yarn.

The yarns can be classified into two types due to quality:Ring Spun Open End

The yarns can be classified into two types due to its use:Yarn for Weaving (the yarn which is used for weaving) Yarn for Knitting (the yarn which is used for knitting)

PROCESSING
PRINTED Pigment Printing Normally the printing of any fabric is Pigment printing process that is mostly demanded in all over the world by almost all of the customers. When a buyer ask for the Printed business then it is understood that this is Pigment printed business and we do not ask specially for the process of that printing process. We just quote the prices with Pigment Printed. (The meaning of Pigment Printed process is that the Chemicals and Dye Stuffs of the printing materials are put and adjusted over the fabric. These Chemicals and Dye Stuffs of the printing materials are not chemically reacted with the fabric) Reactive Printing There is another process of printing that is called as the REACTIVE printing process. This means that the Chemicals and Dye Stuffs of the printing materials are chemically reacted with the fabric. Some customers also demand this process of reactive printing and they clearly mention in their inquiry for this specific process. The reactive printing process is more costly than the pigment printing process. So obviously the price of Pigmented printed fabric is relatively less that that of Reactive printed fabric. BLEACHED The meaning of bleached fabric is that we would have to give the customer WHITE fabric, very simple. The bleaching can be done by Hydrogen or by Chlorine. DYEING PROCESS There are main two kinds of dyeing process. Direct Dyeing & Reactive Dyeing Direct Dyeing (this is normal dyeing and less costly dyeing process. WASHING FASTNESS of this direct dyeing process is up to 40 degree, in this dyeing process there may be any slight shade/color variation from the color/shade of one lot of dyed fabric to other lot of dyed fabric) Reactive Dyeing (this is expensive dyeing process and in this dyeing the Chemicals and Dye Stuffs of the dyeing materials are chemically react with the fabric. The WASHING FASTNESS of this direct dyeing process is up to 60 degree) This reactive dyeing process is operated in two kind of textiles machines, (i) Jigger Dyeing Machines & (ii) Thermosole Continuous Dyeing machine Reactive Dyeing by Jigger Dyeing machine (the washing fastness is upto 60 degree but in this dyeing process there may be any slight shade/color variation from the color/shade of one lot of dyed fabric to other lot of dyed fabric).

Reactive Dyeing by Thermosole Continuous Dyeing machine (the washing fastness is also upto 60 degree but in this dyeing process there is consistency of color/shade throughout all the fabric quantity (same color/shade in all the fabric lots) and there is not any shade/color variation from the color/shade of one lot of dyed fabric to other lot of dyed fabric). The cost of Reactive Dyeing by Thermosole Continuous Dyeing machine is more than the cost of Reactive Dyeing by Jigger Dyeing machine) QUALITY STANDARDS The processing of fabrics has different kinds of Quality Standards for the Printing quality, Dyeing Quality, Bleaching quality etc. For example: In the Printing process the following are the main quality standards: COLOR FASTNESS: The main quality standard is color fastness that means the adhesiveness / fixation of the colors with the fabric. If there is more color adhesiveness / fixation of the colors with the fabric then we say more color fastness. The quality of the processed fabric (printed/dyed) will be good if its has more color fastness. Color fastness of any Printed/Dyed fabric is shown as the following table:
Color Fastness 0 (this means extremely bad quality of fabric and there is absolutely no adhesiveness / fixation of the colors with the fabric) Color Fastness 1 (this means also very bad quality of fabric and there is very little adhesiveness / fixation of the colors with the fabric) Color Fastness 2 (this means poor quality of fabric and there is some level of adhesiveness / fixation of the colors with the fabric) Color Fastness 2/3 (not 2.5, this is a level between 2 & 3) Color Fastness 3 (this means lower level of acceptable quality of fabric and there is some better level of adhesiveness / fixation of the colors with the fabric) Color Fastness 3/4 (not 3.5, this is a level between 3 & 4, means good quality) Color Fastness 4 (this means better quality of fabric and there is good adhesiveness / fixation of the colors with the fabric) Color Fastness 4/5 (not 4.5, this is a level between 4&5, means very good quality) Color Fastness 5 (this means best quality of fabric and there is excellent adhesiveness / fixation of the colors with the fabric)

The color fastness is tested with different kinds of methods, for example - Colour Fastness to Rubbing, Colour Fastness to Water, Colour Fastness to Washing, Colour Fastness to Light, Colour Fastness to Perspiration etc. There are following few examples of good quality standards.
Color Fastness to Washing [Shade Change 4] Colour Fastness to Rubbing [Dry 4 & Wet ] Colour Fastness to Light [ 5 ]

PILLING : This also important quality standard. This means that the surface of the processed fabric should be very smooth and plain. There should not be any extra fibers, fluff, hanging treads, etc. over the surface of the fabric. The quality of the fabric will be good if the Pilling is good that means there is no extra fibers, fluff, hanging treads, etc. over the surface of the fabric. This is also shown by the similar scale as of the colorfastness:
Pilling 0 over the surface of the fabric.) Pilling 1 surface of the fabric.)
Pilling Pilling Pilling Pilling Pilling Pilling 2 2/3 3 3/4 4 4/5

(extremely bad results, mean too much extra fibers, fluff, hanging treads, etc. (very bad results, mean much extra fibers, fluff, hanging treads, etc. over the
(better than 1) (better than 2) (better than 2/3) (better than 3) (better than , good level of Pilling, acceptable by the customers) (better than 4, best level of Pilling standard)