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oDeSA
May - july 2011

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Updated, comprehensive and the best city guide to the Pearl of the Black Sea

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents
Foreword
Introduction to Odesa 4 6 10 12 19
St. Nicholas Church near the Sea Terminal

The Basics
Arriving, Money and more

Cosmopolitan Odesa
Bridging past and future

33

Culture
What Odesa has to offer

Getting around
Planes, trains & car rental Mail & Phones 34 36 37 39

Where to stay
Black Sea Jewel Hotels

Shopping
Where to go shopping in Odesa

Dining & Nightlife


Restaurants, Cafs, Bars and Clubs

Directory
Business, Lifestyle, Health & Sports

What to see

Maps & Index


28 30 Street register/Index City centre map 41 42

Essential Odesa Museums

Monument to Duc de Richelieu

odesa.inyourpocket.com

May - July 2011

Foreword
Odesa is Ukraines most charming city. Anyone who argues otherwise has never been to Odesa, has never strolled its captivating streets nor broken bread with its jovial citizens. As a tribute to its appeal, eight cities in the US, two in Canada and one in Brazil were named Odessa. Theres also Lake Odesa and even Odesa the planet somewhere out there in the cosmos. However, none of these tributes shine as vibrantly as Odesa, Ukraine: The Pearl of the Black Sea. Throughout its history Odesa has lured travellers, artists, poets, entrepreneurs and radical dissidents. The city was founded in 1794 by Catherine the Great, who realised that a port on the Black Sea was essential for the expansion of the Russian Empire. It was not erected on empty ground, however. Archaeological findings have revealed the existence of an ancient Greek settlement. The Kyivan Rus, the Golden Horde, Lithuanians, Ottomans, Tatars and Poles also made use of Odesas ideal location. The area ultimately fell into Russian hands during the Russo-Turkish War (1787-1791), and was later annexed under the Treaty of Jassy in 1792. Unlike many of its contemporary Russian cities, the construction of Odesa was well planned. Duc de Richelieu, a French dissident who served in the Russian Army and later became one of the citys first governors, is credited as the citys visionary designer. The city boomed throughout the 19th century, and attracted an incredibly diverse population. Russians, Ukrainians, Jews, Romanians, Greeks, Bulgarians, Albanians, Armenians, Italians, Frenchmen and Germans all added their own unique vision to the citys unparalleled character. By the beginning of the 20th century, Odesa had become the third most important city in the Russian Empire behind St. Petersburg and Moscow. It continued to thrive during Soviet industrial expansion, and by the mid 1950s had become one of the worlds richest grain harbours. Despite the incursion of industry, Odesa has remained an invaluable cultural centre and a place of blossoming appeal. Although Odesa has been a sun, surf and relaxation destination for as long as anyone can remember, the city has really caught the buzz as of late. New restaurants, bars, clubs, hotels and resorts keep popping up to meet the demand of enthused tourists and adventurers drawn by this fascinating cultural centre nestled right up next to the beach. We are proud to offer this guide designed to highlight the very best Odesa has to offer. You may view additional content and leave comments at www.inyourpocket.com.

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Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS 2003-2011. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76.

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Publisher Neolitas-KIS Ltd. Nyzhnioyurkivska 3, Suite 25 Kyiv 04080, Ukraine tel. +380 44 467 78 20 fax +380 44 467 78 30 kyiv@inyourpocket.com Registration No. KB 14927 - 3899P Neolitas-KIS Printed by Express-Polygraph, Kyiv Published 4 times per year, 10,000 copies produced each issue Maps DNVP Kartographia, 2011 Odesa In Your Pocket, 2011

Editorial Editor Mike Voehringer Research Natasha Martisova Layout & Design Natasha Martisova Photos Odesa In Your Pocket Cover photo Victor Velund Sales & Circulation General Manager Andriy Chernyavsky Sales Kyiv Natasha Martisova, +380 67 977 44 16 Lviv Yuliya Kanyuka, +380 67 672 44 97 Odesa Alexander Telegin, +380 50 390 18 10 Lubov Rogatinska, +380 95 683 82 57

Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Odesa In Your Pocket

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Foreword

odesa.inyourpocket.com

May - July 2011

arriving
By plane
Odesa International Airport is located approximately 10 km from centre. For domestic arrivals, the shuttle bus picks you up from the plane and dumps you by a steel gate next to the main terminal where a gauntlet of underhanded taxi drivers awaits. For international arrivals and departures and domestic departures proceed to the main terminal. There are two currency exchange booths, an ATM, airline representatives, a caf and an information booth (deserted both times we were there) in the terminals main hall. Toilets are located in the basement. Customs staff and many of the taxi drivers speak English. A taxi to centre is unreasonably expensive; even experienced hagglers can expect to pay a minimum of 100Hr. Car rental might be a better option and is available in the main hall. Your cheapest option is bus or minibus. Fares to centre are less than 2Hr. As you exit the main terminal, look to the right. The bus stop is across the parking lot. Two buses and a couple of minibuses depart at regular intervals. Bus 129 goes to the rail station, and 101 stops at Hretska pl. Minibus 113 heads to Paustovskoho and 117 to Pastera. Also to the right, as you exit the main terminal is a VIP lounge. The airport is small and unassuming, but if you happen to get confused or lost dont hesitate to ask airport staff or one of the locals for assistance. Odesians have a tradition of service and are more open and jolly than citizens of other major ex-Soviet cities.

By sea By bus
The Central Bus Station is located at Kolontayivskoi vul. 58. The station is currently undergoing repairs scheduled to be completedwell, no one knows for sure, but not soon. Despite the mess, it continues to function and the bus you need will most likely arrive to or depart from the central station. Bus schedules, ticketing booths ( ) and an information bureau are available. All information is in Russian only, but dont be afraid to express yourself in English. Odesians, especially those who speak English, enjoy coming to the aid of disoriented travellers. For information on existing routes and routing status visit the bus systems website www.bus .com.ua (in Russian only). You can also order tickets to routes designated with a red tick. If you choose to order online, dont forget to specify desired destination. If youre arriving or wish to depart by sea youll inevitably end up at Odesas sea port station. Its possible to book passage to a number of destinations including Constantia, Varna, Istanbul and Crimea from the ticket office on the ground floor (ticketing agents speak English). There are limited routes to Crimea that allow for the transportation of a motor vehicle. An ATM, currency exchange, caf, telephones, Internet service including Wi-Fi and an information desk are also located on the ground floor. Customs is in the basement, but it will probably find you before you find it.

By train
Odesas rail station is the end of the line. Fortunately for you, youre already in centre. A taxi to any centre location shouldnt cost more than 20Hr, but as you are a foreigner you face an uphill battle getting a just fare. If you walk a short distance from the train station (a prime location valued higher by cabbies) and flag down a car youre sure to get better treatment. Minibuses, buses and trams headed to centre and other points depart from the train station and adjacent bazaar. Keep in mind that youre just a short walk from numerous hotels, restaurants, shops and cafs.

By car
When entering the country by car, foreigners are required to sign a document at the border swearing that they will bring the car out of the country before a certain date. Foreign cars are allowed on Ukrainian soil for a maximum of two months. This document should be carried along with your drivers license and your cars registration papers at all times. Automobile insurance is obligatory in Ukraine. It may be possible to buy green card insurance valid for Ukraine in your home country to avoid problems - if not you must purchase it from the Ukrainian company at the border. The latter might cost less than the former, however if you dont speak Ukrainian or Russian it is easy to get deceived by border officials and buy something which is totally useless. The minimum term of insurance is two weeks, with prices depending on the size of the engine.

Street smarts
Street Square Avenue Boulevard Bridge Embankment Highway Lane Descent (.) (.) (.) (.) (.) (.) (VU-lytsia) (PLO-scha) (pro-SPEKT) (bul-VAR) (mist) (NA-berezhna) (sho-SE) (pro-VU-lok) (uz-VIZ)

Odesa In Your Pocket

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BasiCs
Alcohol
Ukrainian beer (pyvo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap to boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol content is higher than Western brands. Those preferring foreign brands can find their favourites at finer shops and establishments. Ukraine also produces a wide selection of vodka, which flows freely at many parties and gatherings. Beware if offered homemade vodka (samohon). While good samohon can be better than some bootleg labels in shops, the overall odds are against you and your stomach. Whether its Ukrainian vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at some point. A modest cheers (budmo) will do for a foreigner.

Basic data
Odesa
Population: 1 010 300 Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 62,2%, Russian 26,8%, Bulgarian 3%, Moldovian 2%, other 6%.

Ukraine
Population: 45 760 000 (March 2011) Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 77.8% Russian 17.3% Belarusian 0.6% Moldovan 0.5% Crimean Tatar 0.5% Bulgarian 0.4% Hungarian 0.3% Romanian 0.3% Polish 0.3% Jewish 0.2% other 1.8% Territory: 603,700km2 (the second largest in Europe, slightly smaller than Texas), mostly consisting of fertile steppes (plains) and plateaus. The only mountain chains are the Carpathians in the west and the Crimean Mountains in the extreme south. Borders: Belarus 891km, coastline (Black and Azov Seas) 2,782km, Hungary 103km, Moldova 939km, Poland 526km, Romania (south) 169km, Romania (west) 362km, Russia 1,576km, Slovakia 97km Rivers: Dnipro (1,204km), Dnister, Donets, Bug, Danube Highest point: Mount Hoverla 2,061m Local time: All of Ukraine is in the Eastern European Time zone (GMT +2), along with its neighbouring countries Belarus, Romania and Turkey. Thus, when it is 12:00 in Odesa, it is 13:00 in Moscow, 11:00 in Paris and Warsaw, 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York.

Borders
Ukraine is bordered by Belarus, Hungary, Moldova, Poland, Romania, Russia and Slovakia. Buses stop for about an hour at borders; westbound trains for more than two, because Ukrainian wheels dont fit European tracks and thus have to be switched! You should expect close inspection of your documents and belongings at border crossings. EU and American travellers need a visa to enter Belarus, Moldova and Russia and cant be obtained at the border, so make sure you contact their embassies in Odesa (see Directory/Foreign representatives).

Customs
If you are 18 years of age or over you can import, free of customs duties and taxes, one litre of hard alcohol, two litres of wine, 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco. Personal belongings are not subject to customs duties or taxes, though a customs officer has the right to ask you to make a written declaration in relation to them. (Avoid bringing unessential, valuable, personal items! A colleague of ours was told by a customs officer to declare her wedding band. She declared the value of the ring, and - to make a long story short - she ended up paying a $200 bribe in order to avoid an outrageous duty.) A person can bring in food products free of customs duties and taxes if their total value does not exceed 50. However, food products should not total more than two kilograms, and there should not be more than one package of the same product. Goods with a total value of less than 200 may be brought in free of customs duties and taxes. If the value of your goods is greater than 200, but less than 1000 they will need to be declared on a customs personal declaration form. If the value of the goods is greater than 1000, the goods will be subject to clearance in accordance with the import declaration requirements for imported cargo. Cultural goods may be brought in if they are not subject to any international alert and you have documents which prove your right of ownership. To take such goods out of Ukraine you will need to obtain relevant authorisation documents from the State Service for Control Over the Passage of Cultural Values Across the National Frontier of Ukraine (Kanatna 83, tel. (+380 48) 33-52-13/33-52-12. All customs declarations, filled out upon arrival to Ukraine, must be kept throughout the period of your stay, and must be handed over upon departure. This declaration can not be renewed if lost. Medications in the amount required for a course of treatment, accompanied by medical certificates and prescriptions, may be brought in. Prohibited drugs are not permitted. Cats, dogs and birds must be accompanied by a veterinarian health certificate bearing the seal of a state veterinarian institute in the country of origin. It must be issued no more than 10 days prior to arrival. Rabbits need confirmation of recent inoculation within 30 days before transporting or confirmation of yearly re-

inoculation. It is prohibited to import puppies and kittens less than three months of age and all pigeons. (Working with our local vet, we prepared all necessary documents for our dog; however, Ukrainian customs officials are a tricky lot. Only after a two hour search for the proper customs office, a 20 minute negotiation and a $30 bribe were we able to take our beloved Labrador.) Precious metals, stones and goods manufactured from such materials, items of cultural value procured for the purpose of sale, animal skins and furs, and feathers and down are prohibited for export. For further information please visit the official website of the State Customs Service of Ukraine www.customs.gov. ua or call the hot line 0 800 501 31 30/ (+380) 44 247 27 19/247 28 50.

Disabled travellers
Odesa is not what you would call a disabled-friendly city. High curb drops and steep steps are the rule. Odesa Holovna train station does have ramps to the platforms, special ticketing windows, toilets and telephones, but the public transport system lacks even a hint of accessibility. The wheelchair symbol used in this guide means that the establishment in question specifically caters to disabled guests.

Electricity
Ukraine supplies its residents and visitors alike with electrical current of 220 volts AC, 50Hz. All sockets require two round pins, but not always of the same size. Many thinner Russian sockets are being replaced by their European cousins. Those with Russian sockets can buy a cheap adapter for their European appliances. Adapters for more foreign electrical societies are not easy to find in Odesa, so bring your own.

odesa.inyourpocket.com

May - July 2011

BasiCs
Odesa vs. Odessa
Though Ukrainian and Russian are similar, there are notable differences including the spelling of many names. This is the case with Odesa (Ukrainian) and Odessa (Russian). Being that Russian is the language spoken by the overwhelming majority of Odesians, the Russian version is more common and useful, i.e. if youre searching the Internet, adding the extra s with definitely result in more hits.

Language
The countrys official language is Ukrainian. pendence in 1991, it has become much more widespread. Still, Russian is heavily used in Eastern Ukraine, and only in western regions truly predominant. Since indepopular and Crimea and is Ukrainian

Floors
Ukrainians consider the floor on the ground to be the first floor and so one.

Communism
Like an aggressive case of athletes foot, communism refuses to go away. While Ukraines youth embraces capitalism and nationalism, many elderly and disillusioned citizens cling to socialism. In June 2009, this political divide made international news as hooligans linked to a Ukrainian nationalist organisation savagely vandalised a famous statue of Vladimir Lenin in Kyiv. Most people, Ukrainians included, link communism to Russia this is inaccurate. Many leaders of the Bolshevik Revolution were, in fact, from Ukraine. The most notable of the lot was Lev (Leon) Trotsky, who actually attended secondary school in Odesa. Also, many prominent Soviet leaders had Ukrainian roots. Leonid Brezhnev was born in the Dnipropetrovsk Oblast. Nikita Khruschev moved from Russia to Donetsk as a teenager, and ascended the ranks of the Communist Party in Donbas and Kyiv. Two monumental atrocities occurred under Stalins rule, and memory of the carnage continues to stoke Ukrainian nationalism. The first tragedy is known as Holodomor (starvation), a famine which took place in 1932-33. It is estimated that as many as 2.6 - 10 million Ukrainians perished. There is evidence showing that the famine was, in part, orchestrated by the Soviet leadership in an attempt to squash Ukrainian nationalism. Whether this act should be classified as genocide is currently being debated around the world. The second tragedy is known as the Great Purge (19361938). Stalin was obsessed with the complete eradication of political rivals including fellow party members, military commanders, dissidents, artists and anyone else worth being suspicious of. It is estimated that he ordered the execution of as many as 500,000 Soviet people and had millions more sent to gulags (penal labour/death camps). Ukraines share of the victims was disproportionately high.

Money
The national currency is the hryvnia (Hr), which replaced the transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Dont be confused if your amount is given in roubles. You havent been transported to Russia or taken back in time to the USSR - some people just have trouble letting go of the past! Paper bills carry denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and 500 hryvnias. Another word to the wise: two versions exist of the 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 hryvnia bills, and both are accepted everywhere. There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, with 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50 kopeck and 1Hr coins. Youll have no problem finding currency exchange points, but rates are better from central street kiosks. If its travellers checks you need to cash, look for a big respectable-looking bank. You can find a number of ATMs around Odesa and many hotels and restaurants now take Visa and MasterCard - American Express is not very popular. There have been scattered reports of credit card fraud in upscale restaurants, though, so you may want to think twice before charging it.

Safety
They say that Ukrainians can spot a foreigner from a kilometre away. This fact alone will not automatically make you the target of crime. Odesa is, in fact, a rather safe place. As in most cities, flashing large amounts of cash can cause trouble. Wallets are known to disappear in public transport crowds, so guard your pockets at all times. Being very drunk and/or loud on the street is always a good way to attract unwanted attention, especially from the police. By the way, its a good idea for foreigners to carry at least a copy of their passport and visa with them at all times.

Smoking
Youre never too far away from a lit cigarette in Ukraine, and in some bars and clubs the term second-hand smoke just doesnt seem to matter. Smokers enjoy a ridiculously cheap selection of cigarettes hawked by one of the many babushkas and corner kiosks that are located throughout the city. Just recently Ukraine outlawed smoking in most public places and the workplace, except in specially designated areas. It is the responsibility of each company to provide a designated area for all smoking patrons or personnel. These special places can not exceed 50% of the total allotted area of the business. Since this law is relatively new in Ukraine, not every business has begun to enforce it.

Market values
How do costs compare to back home? list of local prices to give you an idea. McDonalds Big Mac 15.00Hr Loaf of white bread 2.80Hr Snickers bar 4.00Hr Litre of vodka 50.00Hr Bottle of local beer (0.5 litre) 4.50Hr 20 Marlboros 9.00Hr Public transport ticket 1.50Hr Dry-cleaning and 25.00Hr pressing one mens shirt 1 litre of petrol (euro 3) 7.60Hr Heres a handy 1.38 0.26 0.37 4.60 0.41 0.83 0.14 2.30 $1.88 $0.35 $0.50 $6.26 $0.56 $1.13 $0.19 $3.13

Toilets
Public restrooms are a sore, dirty and not very aromatic subject in Odesa. They are also in short supply, so make it a rule to go before you leave the hotel and after each caf/ restaurant/pub you visit. Youre sure to notice locals dancing frantically as they disappear into alleyways and behind trees, only to reappear fresh and liberated. This may be a tempting alternative, but beware: this behaviour inevitably leads to awkward conversations with local police who love to levy hefty fines on foreign tourists. Good luck.

0.70 $0.95

Official exchange rates (as of April 28 2011): 1 11.85Hr US$1 7.96Hr 1 13.17Hr

Odesa In Your Pocket

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BasiCs
Tipping
Odesa tipping culture is developing slowly. While no general rule exists yet, most restaurant-goers leave around 10% of their bill. But your waitstaff will expect more from you as a foreigner! Some places include a service charge of five to 10 per cent, so read the fine print or ask.

Ukraines political framework


To understand Ukrainian politics, imagine a carnival complete with clowns, freaks and a main attraction where magicians make billions of hryvnias disappear from taxpayers pockets. That said, lets get down to the nitty-gritty. Ukraine is a republic consisting of 24 provinces (oblasts) and the Autonomous Republic of Crimea. The federal government consists of executive, legislative and judicial branches.

Visas
Citizens of the EU, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Andorra, Vatican, Iceland, Monaco, Norway, San Marino, Mongolia, the USA, Canada, Japan and the countries of the Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS) - except Turkmenistan - can enter Ukraine visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Everyone else needs a visa, which must be obtained from a Ukrainian embassy or consulate abroad before travelling. Visas can be processed in as little as one day, with prices varying depending on the type and length of visa requested. Many Ukrainian embassies only handle visa cases on certain days of the week, so call ahead. Travel to Russia is not so simple. All foreign visitors, with the exception of citizens from selected countries of the CIS, must obtain a visa. Upon arrival, you will need to fill in an immigration card. If you are staying more that 72 hours, you will need to register with the local police (hotels are usually willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. For additional information, call (+380 48) 784 15 44. Travel to Belarus is also a bit tricky. Citizens of the EU, Andorra, Iceland, Lichtenstein, Norway and Croatia can apply for 30-day single and multiple entry business and private visas without an invitation. The rest of us need an invitation, or we can book through a travel agency authorized to issue state travel vouchers. All visitors are required to purchase national medical insurance, and must register their passports with local police within three days of their arrival (hotels are usually willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. For more information, call (+380 44) 537 52 03. Moldova greatly relaxed its visa laws in 2007. Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Japan, Israel, Canada and the USA can enter Moldova visa-free and stay up to 90 days. For all other visitors, visas can be acquired at a Moldavian consulate or at the Chisinau airport by presenting an application form and photos. All visitors planning to stay more than 90 days need an invitation and visa. For more information, call (+380 482) 33 33 94. Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Canada, the USA, Japan, Australia, Israel and a handful of Latin American countries can enter Romania visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Citizens of countries not on the list can obtain a visa at the Romanian consulate in Kyiv. For more information, call (+380 48) 724 23 24. Poland, Hungary and Slovakia belong to the European Schengen zone. Citizens of Canada, Mexico, the USA, Israel, Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea, Malaysia and Singapore may enter without a visa; however, the amount of time you are allowed to stay varies from country to country. All others must apply for a visa at the consulate of destination country. For more information call the following embassies: Polish (+380 48) 729 44 13/729 39 36, Hungarian (+380 44) 238 63 81, Slovakian (+380 44) 234 06 06. For a complete listing of embassy locations and phone numbers see Foreign Representations. In many cases, the consular section is responsible for issuing visas and is located apart from the embassy - save yourself time and confusion by calling before you go.

Executive branch
The President is elected by popular vote for a five-year term and is eligible for a second term. The President is responsible for issuing decrees and orders, and preventing any actions of the legislative, executive and judicial branches of power that directly or indirectly infringe upon interpretation of the fundamental Law of Ukraine. In other words, the Presidents job is to ensure that nothing is ever accomplished. Current President Viktor Yanukovych, front man for the Party of Regions, was inaugurated in February 2010 following a closely contested election in which he beat out rival Yulia Tymoshenko by just 3.5% of the vote. Many political insiders have been quick to note the uncanny similarities between Yanukovych and former US President George W. Bush: neither is able to sting together a proper sentence and both will go down in history as the face and definitely not the brain of their respective administrations.

Legislative branch
The unicameral supreme council, known as Verkhovna Rada, consists of 450 deputies and is presided over by a Speaker. Elections were last held in 2007, and five parties passed the required vote threshold of 3%. The current make up of this bitterly feuding, fund sucking, time wasting branch is as follows: the Party of Regions (172 seats), President Yanukovychs party, is extremely popular in Ukraines industrial, Russian-speaking, eastern oblasts; Yulia Tymoshenko Bloc (152 seats) is led by the former Prime Minister known for her trademark blond peasant braids; Our Ukraine/Peoples Self Defence (72 seats) is led by former President Viktor Yushchenko and maintains a base among voters in the west; the Communist Party of Ukraine (27 seats) has been steadily losing support since the fall of communism; Lytvyn Bloc (20 seats) is led by current Speaker Vladimir Lytvyn, a man with gorgeous silver hair; and seven independent deputies. In March, a new majority coalition led by the Party of Regions swooped into Verkhovna Rada and consolidated power by appointing Mykola Azarov, a long-time ally of President Yanukovych, to the position of Prime Minister. The new coalition consists of the Party of Regions, the Communists, Lytvyn Bloc and mercenaries from Our Ukraine/Peoples Self Defence and Yulia Tymoshenko Bloc. The formation of this new coalition was made possible only via the passing of a controversial amendment (basically unconstitutional) which allows individual deputies to join coalitions without party consent. Welcome to Ukraine, where laws are made to be broken.

Judicial branch
The legal system, based on civil law with judicial review of legislative acts, is topped by the Supreme Court and the Constitutional Court. We thought of adding a joke here, but realised that everything that happens in these halls of justice is far too disturbing to make light of.

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May - July 2011

10

Culture & events


Art galleries
12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Kontrabas Art-Caf Balkivska 31, tel. (+380) 48 777 05 40, www.kontrabas.od.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Maritime Art Gallery G-1, Prymorska 6, Sea Port, tel. (+380) 48 729 33 09. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Launch time 14:00 - 15:00. Admission 30-60Hr. Museum of Contemporary Art H-3, Sabanskyi prov. 4A, tel. (+380) 482 34 36 44, www.msio.com.ua. QOpen 12:00 19:00, Sat 12:00 18:00. Closed Wed, Sun. NT-Art I-4, Lidersovskyi bulv. 5, office 166, tel. (+380) 48 785 59 34, www.nt-art.net. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Salieri Art Caf F-2, Lanzheronivska 14, tel. (+380) 48 725 00 00. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Tvorchestvo F-1, Hoholia 6, tel. (+380) 48 795 59 38. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. U Vernisage H-5, Belinskoho 13, tel. (+380) 48 725 88 99, www.aleksandrovskiy.com.ua/eng. service by Engish, Frech QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. White Moon H-3, Kanatna 9, tel. (+380) 48 715 51 26. QOpen 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Gapchinska Gallery F-2, Katerynynska pl. 6, ap.7, tel. (+380) 48 731 54 40. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat

Concert halls
Panteleimonivska 3, tel. (+380) 48 722 17 65. Philharmonic G-3, Bunina 15, tel. (+380) 48 725 15 36. Q Tickets 20 - 50Hr.

Muzkomedia (Musical Comedy Theatre) H-6,

Cinemas
48 780 03 70, www.cinemacity.od.ua. Located in the Seredniofontanskyi Trade Centre. Q Tickets 18-50Hr. Golden Duke Akademika Hlushka 11G, tel. (+380) 48 746 32 33. Q Tickets 20-50Hr. Maski Olhiivska 23, tel. (+380) 482 23 63 16. Q Tickets 15 - 25Hr. Rodina E-5, Mechnikova 104, tel. (+380) 482 37 17 17. Q Tickets 18 - 50Hr.

Culture Centres
Alliance Franaise E-2, Sadova 3, tel. (+380) 48 786 06 57, www.af.od.ua/fr. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Arabian Culture Centre F-5, Rishelievska 49, tel. (+380) 482 37 91 60, www.kivan.com. QOpen 11:00
Sat, Sun.

Cinema City G-7, Semafornyi prov. 4, tel. (+380)

- 15:30. Closed Fri.

Bavarian House F-4, Uspenska 60, office 2, tel. (+380) 48 777 06 96, fax (+380) 482 34 52 76, bho.odessa@ paco.net, www.bayernhaus.com.ua/?lang=de&id=2. service by German QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. P British Council Fontanska doroha 33, office 107, tel. (+380) 48 718 81 19/(+380) 48 718 81 39, www. britishcouncil.org.ua. QOpen 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Fri, Sat, Sun. Greek Culture Foundation F-3, Chervonyi prov. 20, tel. (+380) 482 35 71 36/(+380) 48 724 20 69, www. hfcodessa.org. Hillel Jewish Culture Centre E-1, Pastera 19, tel. (+380) 48 723 84 64, www.hillel.org.ua. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. Israel Culture Centre E-1, Pastera 11, tel. (+380) 48 723 02 05/(+380) 48 723 40 80. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Fri, Sat. Jewish Culture Centre Beit Grand E-3, Nizhynska 77/79, tel./fax (+380) 48 737 40 52, tel. (+380) 48 737 40 53, project@beit-grand.odessa.ua, www.beitgrand.odessa.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. PU Odesa Jewish Community G-4, Osypova 21, tel. (+380) 48 728 07 70. QOpen 24hrs.

Theatres
Tickets 50 - 100Hr.

Maski-show Olhiivska 23, tel. (+380) 48 723 63 16/(+380) 48 777 82 91, www.maski.odessa.ua. Q Vasylko Ukrainian Musical Drama Theatre E-1, Odesa Musical Comedy Theatr e H-6,
Pastera 15, tel. (+380) 48 723 89 99.

Panteleimonivska 3, tel. (+380) 48 725 09 24/ (+380) 48 722 01 62, www.operetta.odessa.net. Q Tickets 15-50Hr. Odesa Russian Drama Theatre F-3, Hretska 48, tel. (+380) 48 722 45 04. Q Tickets 10 - 70Hr. Opera and Ballet Theatre G-2, Chaikovskoho prov. 1, tel. (+380) 48 780 15 09/(+380) 48 722 22 30, www.opera-ballet.tm.odessa.ua. Q Tickets 25 - 100Hr.

Odesa In Your Pocket

odesa.inyourpocket.com

Culture calls

Culture & events

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where to stay
Odesa has been a popular business and tourist destination for more that 200 years. The interest in this important region has left an indelible mark in the form of plenty of accommodation. From ultra-ritzy to run-down Soviet relics, Odesas hotel infrastructure can easily accommodate a wide range of clientele including convention goers, discriminating business travellers, sun-seeking families and even budget backpackers. Rooms become harder to find during the summer peak. Our obvious recommendation: book ahead and avoid the hassle. Tired of hotels? A number of private companies offer newly renovated apartments, which can be rented on a nightly basis and are considerably cheaper than most hotel rooms. The advantages of privacy, a kitchen and more space in general are definite plusses. Prices include breakfast and VAT (20%), unless otherwise stated. Mostly prises doesnt include 1% tourist tax.

Symbol key
P Air-conditioning 6 Animal friendly T Child friendly H Conference facilities A Credit cards accepted U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre L Guarded parking R Internet G Non-smoking rooms K Restaurant D Sauna C Swimming pool W Wi-Fi internet access

Continental G-3, Deribasivska 5, tel. (+380) 48 786 03

Cream of the Crop


Arkadia Plaza Posmitnoho 1, tel. (+380) 482 30 71 00/(+380) 482 30 71 01, fax (+380) 482 30 71 58, arcadia-plaza@com.od.ua, www.arcadia-plaza.com/ english. Arkadia is officially a four star hotel. As we explored the luxurious rooms and became familiar with the wealth of available services we wondered what had happened to the fifth star. Did it get devoured, like a remote control, in the cushions of one of the rooms plush sofas? The 24 luxclass rooms and four spacious suites are stunning, but the services are really what set this place apart. Where else can you order room service 24/7, play tennis, dine on fine French cuisine and disco all under one roof? Other services include swimming-pool, sunbathing terrace, sauna, Jacuzzi, massage room, parking, bar/lounge, etc. Did we mention that the hotel is situated on a popular windsurfing beach? Q24 rooms (10 standard 1167Hr, 8 superior 1689Hr, 2 junior suite 2499Hr, 3 suite 3441Hr, 1 Plaza Suite 4473Hr, extra bed 375Hr). POTHARFLGKDCW hhhh Bristol G-3, Pushkinska 15, tel. (+380) 48 796 55 01/
(+380) 48 796 55 02, fax (+380) 48 796 55 03, bristol@ bristol-hotel.com.ua, www.bristol-hotel.com.ua. The building which houses this hotel was constructed in 1899 by Italian architect Bernardazzi and is protected as a historic monument. Formerly known as Krasnaya (Red) Hotel, the interior was remodelled in 2010. The new interior successfully blends modern amenities with the designers original vision. The ambiance is extremely tasteful and the rooms, with their lofty ceilings and classic furnishings, have a late 19th Century bourgeoisie feel. Rooms come with standard facilities and balconies with views of the historic city centre. Services include restaurant, bar/lounge, laundry, parking, travel services and a barber shop. Q113 rooms (53 standard 2300 - 2600Hr, 44 superior 2800 - 3200Hr, 11 junior suite 4500 - 6200Hr, 3 suite 7200Hr, 2 Presidential suite 11000Hr). PTJHARFLGKDCW hhhhh

99, fax (+380) 48 786 05 50, office@continental-hotel. com.ua, www.hotel-continental-odessa.com. Originally constructed in the mid 19th century, the hotel was completely reconstructed in 2005. Today it prides itself on being Odesas ideal venue for business and leisure. All rooms are luxuriously designed and incorporate all services expected of a four star hotel including satellite TV, internet, safe, mini-bar, Italian furniture and air-conditioning. Perhaps the most noteworthy feature is located on the first floor. Im referring to the lavish Voyage Restaurant, of course. One taste of the original, superb dishes and youll book a room just to be close to this culinary gem. Q32 rooms (6 economy 1290Hr, 12 standard 1730Hr, 10 junior suite 2390Hr, 3 suite 2900Hr, 1 apartment 4420Hr). PHARFLGKDCW hhhh 98, info@london-hotel.com.ua, www.london-hotel.com. ua. This British themed hotel is located next to a picturesque park, whose name has been changed so many times that no one seemed to know what to call it. The hotels name is unmistakable, though, and youll soon notice that theyve taken everything trendy from Britain and stuffed it in through the front door and all the way up to the rafters. The porter is dressed like a beefeater, and whos serving-up ale at the pub? A kilted Scotsman, of course. This place has great security and each room comes with air-conditioning, safe and fabulous park views. The internal non-chlorinated water purification system insures that tap water is drinkable in accordance with European standards - unique features such as this breath in high class. 10% discount when booking from London web-site. Q37 rooms (19 standards 1150 - 1645Hr, 4 twins 1150 - 1595Hr, 1 junior suite 1647 - 1797Hr, 12 suites 2116 - 2266Hr, 1 apartment 1980 - 4980Hr, extra bed 350Hr). PHARLGKW hhhh

London E-4, Uspenska 95, tel./fax (+380) 48 784 08

Londonskaya G-2, Prymorskyi bulv. 11, tel. (+380)

Door smarts
A quick yet indispensable guide to those embarrassing moments in front of a foreign door. Pull Push Open Closed

1 = 11.85Hr; US$1 = 7.96Hr; 1 = 13.17Hr

(28 April 2011 official rates)


Odesa In Your Pocket

48 738 01 02/(+380) 48 738 01 03, fax (+380) 48 738 01 11, hotel@londred.com, www.londonskaya-hotel. com.ua. Located in the heart of the city overlooking the port, theyve taken a mid 19th Century hotel and dressed it up with lavishly remodelled rooms and halls complete with all the ambience and modern amenities the contemporary traveller has come to expect. Rooms are equipped with satellite TV, wireless Internet access, mini-bar, fabulous views, safe and air conditioning. Other highlights include airport transfer, disabled access room, free parking, high-tech conference rooms, a spacious banquet room, professional multilingual staff and Formula wellness spa centre with swimming pool and gym. The restaurant and lobby bar have gained a reputation all their own and attract party-goers from far and wide. Q70 rooms (10 standards 1300Hr, 39 superiors 1600 - 1900Hr, 14 junior suites 2500 - 2850Hr, 6 suites 3200 - 3800Hr, 1 Presidential suite 5300Hr). POARUFLGKDCW hhhh

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new

00/(+380) 482 32 44 44, luxury@maristella-club.com, www.maristella-club.com. A Luxurious 5 star hotel on the seaside outside the centre. This Wellness Spa Resort is in the shape of a large ship. There are 15 top notch rooms ranging from 1750Hr-3250Hr per night. The staff was very helpful and fluent in English. The price includes breakfast and the use of all facilities, pools, spa, gym, etc. Q15 rooms (standard 2750Hr, junior suite 4500Hr, suite 6000Hr, apartment 14000 - 15000Hr). PTAFLKDCW 90 90/(+380) 482 33 90 95, fax (+380) 482 33 90 91, hotel@morskoy.com, www.morskoy.com. Morskoy is located just steps away from Arcadia Beach and a 10 minute taxi ride from centre. There are countless attractions in the neighbourhood, and sun-seekers tend to stay, dine and party long into the night at one of Arcadias many restaurants and nightclubs. The hotel was built recently so rooms are fashionable and modern. All come equipped with safe, min-bar, air-conditioning and satellite TV. The hotels Fish Time Restaurant is worth checking out even if youre not staying at the hotel. Q54 rooms (29 standard 1300 - 1500Hr, 12 superior 1500 - 1700Hr, 4 junior suite 2200 - 2350Hr, 6 suite 2650 - 3050Hr, 2 apartment 3200 - 3800Hr, 1 apartments with a terrace 4800 - 5700Hr). PHARFLG KDCW hhhh 77 77/(+380) 482 37 69 00, fax (+380) 482 37 98 94, www.mozart-hotel.com/en. During his exile in Odesa, Aleksander Sergeyevich Pushkin was a regular at this hotels casino. Can you see him across the room? Hes perched attentively on a card table stool, one eye tracking his bet, the other scanning the corseted ladies for his next adulterous feast. With its elegant interior and location at the epicentre of Odesas art and culture scene, its understandable why this hotel so easily lured Pushkin. The casinos gone, but a variety of impressive amenities stand in its place and include a swimming pool, VIP lounge, bar, banquet halls and Mozarts own restaurant renown for its Ukrainian and European dishes and romantic views of the Opera and Ballet Theatre. The rooms definitely lack in space, but are luxurious and packed with goodies such as air-conditioning, cable TV, Internet, minibar, etc. Q41 rooms (3 suites 2722 - 3785Hr, 3 apartments 3984Hr, 2 junior standards 1328 - 1859Hr, 28 stardsrds 1585 - 2117Hr, 2 family rooms 1585 - 3179Hr, 3 junior suites 2192 - 3254Hr, extra bed 531Hr). PHARLG KDCW hhhh

Maristrella Club Vannyi prov. 3, tel. (+380) 48 785 50

Morskoy Kryshtalevyi prov. 1/1, tel. (+380) 482 33

Health Resorts
Kuyalnik Resort Kuyalnik Liman, tel. (+380) 48
751 51 13, fax (+380) 48 751 51 32, kuyalnik@ukr. net. www.kuyalnik.com.ua. Located on the coast 13 kilometres from the city centre, Kuyalniks sulphide silt mud is world renowned for its medicinal properties. Established in 1833, this is the oldest mud resort in Ukraine. Also, Kuyalnik mineral water has been proven to improve gastrointestinal function.Chabanka Rest Complex Hvardiyska 50, Chornomorske, Odesa Region, tel. (+380) 48 750 99 90, fax (+380) 48 750 99 76, chabanka@inbox.ru, www. chabanka.od.ua. Chabanka is located 30 kilometres from Odesa on the sea cost and surrounded by a large park with exotic flowers, lakes and fountains. Restaurant, bar, fitness centre, tennis court, billiard, golf field, sweeping pool and guarded parking are for guests service. English speaking staff that can help with information and arranging excursions, taxis, etc.

Mozart F-2, Lanzheronivska 13, tel. (+380) 482 37

Otrada I-6, Zatyshna 11, tel./fax (+380) 482 33 06 98, contact@hotel-otrada.com, en.hotel-otrada.com. Located in the ritziest part of town and just steps from the beach, Otrada is a touch of class in a sea of mediocrity. The stunning building was designed and constructed in the late 19th century. The 26 rooms (ten standard, six luxe, three deluxe and seven suites) were elegantly remodelled in 2005. All rooms come with satellite TV, Internet access, mini-bar, safe, hair-dryer, robe and slippers. This ultra-stylish venue is equipped with wonderful security, room service, business centre services and free parking. Two of the citys most celebrated eateries, Casa dItalia and La Terrazza, offer-up fine European and Ukrainian cuisine. Otradas Beach Club is unrivalled in Odesa: relax in the pool or sauna and get pampered at the beauty centre. Q26 rooms (16 standards 1570 - 2173Hr, superiors 2265 - 2493Hr, 7 junior suites 3327 - 4897Hr, 2 suites 6347Hr, 1 apartment 9137Hr, extra bed 525Hr). PTHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhhh Odesa In Your Pocket odesa.inyourpocket.com

where to stay

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13, Lanzheronovskaya Str. 65026 Odessa, Ukraine tel.: +380 482 37 77 77 reservation@mazart-hotel.com www.mozart-hotel.com
new

Villa Venezia Kamanina 16, tel. (+380) 482 34 26 36/

(+380) 482 34 69 34, venice.hot@gmail.com, www. venice-hotel.com.ua. There are 10 fully equipped rooms in 3 categories ranging from 1287Hr- 2863Hr. There is a sauna, indoor and outdoor pools, and many extras including round the clock service. The popular restaurant offers European and Italian cuisine with Italian chefs at your service. Q10 rooms (2 standard 1287L, 2 junior suite 1737L, 3 suite 2208L, 3 apartment 2863L). PHARKDCW

the comfortable refined bar is open around the clock. Other services include airport and rail station transfer, individual tour guides, tickets to theatres, exhibitions and galleries, a variety of excursion programs and boat tours. Youll find a Turkish bath, sauna, Jacuzzi and massage parlour in the health centre. Breakfast is included in the room charge, and loyalty discounts are available (ask the front desk for details). Q8 rooms (5 standards 850Hr, 3 junior suites 950 - 1000Hr, 1 suites 1550Hr, extra bed 350Hr). PTALGKDW hhhh

Frapolli G-2, Deribasivska 13, tel./fax (+380) 482

Upmarket
Ayvazovsky G-3, Bunina 19, tel. (+380) 48 728 97 77, fax (+380) 48 728 11 34, info@ayvazovsky.com.ua, www.ayvazovsky.com.ua. Named in honour of the famous Crimean painter, Ayvasovsky sits on a hushed street a few doors down from the Opera and Ballet Theatre and Philharmonic. The design and comfort of the rooms and the level of service definitely warrants more than a three star rating, but rooms are relatively small and dont come with a balcony. International telephone connection, wirelesses Internet, min-bar, safe and air-conditioning are standard in all rooms. The accommodation rate includes a continental breakfast. Services available with additional charges include mini-bar, laundry services and car park.Q27 rooms (5 singles 880Hr, 11 doubles 1180Hr, 2 suites 1650Hr, 4 junior suite 1380Hr, 5 mansard 1180Hr, extra bed 350Hr). PHAW hhh
(+380) 482 30 09 04/(+380) 482 30 09 05, fax (+380) 48 731 47 23, blacksea@bs-hotel.com.ua, www.bs-hotel. com.ua/en. This hotel caters to all tastes. The rooms are elegant, but have a welcome home feel. For those in need of relaxation, a sauna, solarium and massage parlour are just steps away. For those looking to burn a few calories, the hotel has a relatively impressive swimming pool and fitness centre. The restaurant serves up scrumptious European and Japanese cuisine (banquet room seating for up to 85 available), and a casino and concert hall are also at your disposal. Breakfast not included. Q216 rooms (22 singles 500Hr, 113 doubles 500 - 700Hr, 72 junior suites 550 - 800Hr, 9 suites 1000 - 1200Hr, extra bed 100Hr). POARFLGKDCW hhhh

35 68 01, tel. (+380) 482 35 68 09, frapolli@mail.ru, www.frapolli-hotel.com. They must be doing something right - all 26 rooms were booked when we visited and they could only show us around the elegant lobby. The excellent location on Deribasivska vul. and the luxurious interior justify its popularity. Rooms come with air-conditioning, safe, minibar, satellite TV and views ideal for people watching. A small meeting room equipped with modern goodies can be booked and accommodates up to 20. Other mentionables include breakfast buffet, bar, sauna, gym and round the clock service. Q27 rooms (1 apartments 1800Hr, 2 economy rooms 620 840Hr, 9 standards 880 - 1100Hr, 9 superiors 1100 - 1320Hr, 5 junior suites 1320 - 1540Hr, 1 suite 1460 - 1680Hr, extra bed 220Hr). PTHAR6ULGKDW hhhh
opening in june 2011

Chorne More (Black Sea) F-5, Rishelievska 59, tel.

737 55 53/(+380) 48 737 55 54, fax (+380) 48 737 55 51, fkhotel@gmail.com, www.koklenhotel.com. A small cosy boutique hotel Frederic Koklen is located in the historical centre of Odesa and is surrounded by all main sights of the city. The 4-store 19th century building contains 17 rooms, which are designed in classic style. In the hotel you wont find 2 similar rooms, each is unique. The set of amenities includes WiFi, airconditioning, satellite TV. There is also a fitness centre and conference hall. Hotels windows overlook either old streets of Odessa, or the courtyard. VAT (20%) not included. Q17 rooms (1 singles 1095L, 9 doubles 1095 - 1575L, 1 junior suite 1655 - 1855L, 4 suite 2275 - 3355L, 2 apartments 2700 - 2985L, extra bed 350L). PHAR6UFLGKW hhh

Frederic Koklen F-2, Nekrasova prov. 7, tel. (+380) 48

Columbus Novoberehova 90, tel./fax (+380) 48 728 03


37, tel. (+380) 48 728 03 34, hotel-columbus@mail.ru, www.columbus-odessa.com.ua. This quaint yet stylish hotel is located on the coast in one of Odesas most romantic and prestigious neighbourhoods. Rooms are magnificently decorated and come equipped with cable TV, Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, mini-bar and safe. Efficient service ensures speedy check in/ out. Business services are also available and include Xerox and document scanning, faxes, etc. Columbuss restaurant presents an enticing selection of gourmet seafood, and

Odessa G-1, Prymorska 6A, tel. (+380) 48 729 48 08, fax (+380) 48 729 46 23, hotel@odessa-hotel.com.ua, www.odessa-hotel.com.ua/en. Located on Odesas central dock overlooking the bay, this magnificent hotel has it all and then some. The rooms are definitely up to snuff and come with satellite TV, a mini-bar, air-conditioning, a private safe, a telephone, secured Internet connection and stunning views of the bay. The multifunctional, high-tech conference hall that can accommodate up to 300 and the banquet hall with seating for 250 make this the best conference venue in the city. Odesa boasts two elegant restaurants. Panorama is located on the 19th floor and is famous for its spectacular sea view. Afraid May - July 2011

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of heights? The Black Pearl is situated closer to the ground and serves European and Ukrainian cuisine. Q158 rooms (55 standards 1081 - 1281Hr, 72 superiors 1265 - 1465Hr, 15 junior suites 1800 - 2000Hr, 10 suites 2745Hr, 1 presidential suite 6600Hr). PHARUFLGKDCW hhhh 30, fax (+380) 48 728 78 99, welcome@hotel-palladium. com.ua, www.hotel-palladium.com.ua. Located five minutes walk from the railway station, Palladium is a modern hotel with an ultra stylish interior. Rooms are equipped with cable TV, a climate control system, a telephone and a mini-bar. The courteous staff is at your service and the entertainment and relaxation amenities are contemporary and impressive. The hotel hosts a popular restaurant and night club. Other amenities include Turkish and Finish sauna, massage, Jacuzzi and Russian billiards. Q23 rooms (17 standards 865Hr, 2 junior suites 1135Hr, 3 suites 1595 - 1815Hr, 1 apartment 1950Hr). PHAR6LGKDC hhhh

Palladium G-6, Italiiskyi bulv. 4, tel. (+380) 48 728 77

Prominada Fontanska doroha 143, tel. (+ 380) 48 705

Lermontovskiy I-5, Lermontovskyi prov. 2, tel. (+380) 48 717 78 77/(+380) 48 717 78 79, lermonrovskiy@ ukr.net, www.lermontovskiy.com.ua. The hotel is located next to Lermontovskyi Sanatorium - a tremendously popular destination for health rejuvenation and relaxation during Soviet times. The hotel really stands out against the rundown back drop that is the sanatorium. The area and hotel continue to attract a mostly Eastern European crowd and westerners may find familiar services lacking and the atmosphere somewhat tacky. However, the location - a short walk from the beach, Chornomorets Tennis Club, a yacht club and seaside restaurants - make this an intriguing possibility for summer visitors. All rooms come equipped with air-conditioning and satellite TV. Youll have to book a premium if you desire a mini-bar, bathrobe or slippers. Services include a restaurant, caf, sauna, small conference room, travel services, parking and laundry. Q33 rooms (singles 580Hr, doubles 600 - 700Hr, suites 800 - 900Hr). PHALGKDCW hhh Oktyabrskaya H-4, Kanatna 31, tel. (+380) 48 728
88 63, fax (+380) 48 760 14 62, info@octyabrskaya. in.ua, www.oktyabrskaya.in.ua. This hotel is located ten minutes walk from Deribasivska in one direction and the train station in the other. Rooms are neatly remodelled to the local taste and come standard with refrigerator, satellite TV and Internet connection. Most rooms have air-conditioning and some luxe rooms come with balconies overlooking a sleepy courtyard. Economy class rooms have a shared bathroom. The complimentary light buffet breakfast is served in the quaint caf that features Ukrainian cuisine. There is very little information available in English, but the staff is more or less capable and, true to their Odesian roots, are friendly and always willing to help. The hotels conference hall accommodates up to 30. Q 57 rooms (17 singles 570Hr, 21 doubles 670 - 740Hr, 6 junior suite 820 - 890Hr, 15 suite 1070 - 1140Hr, extra bed 100Hr). PHARLGKDW hhh

40 50, fax (+ 380) 48 705 40 51, sales@prominada. com, www.prominada.com. The architecture resembles an old style house and is out of town 5 minutes from clean beaches. We found the staff friendly and English speaking. The rooms are spacious, fully equipped, and very affordable with a great buffet breakfast included. The 3 categories of rooms range from 1,000Hr. double occupancy to 1,400Hr. There are discounts for early bookings. There is a conference room, swimming pool, ample parking and access to the spa and gym at nearby Hotel Maristella. Q (standard 1300 - 1600Hr, junior suite 1600 - 1900Hr, suite 1900 - 2200Hr). PHALCW

Mid-range
Deribas F-2, Deribasivska 27, tel. (+380) 48 794 43 64/(+380) 67 559 01 01, booking@hotel-deribas.com, www.hotel-deribas.com. Conveniently located on the most popular street in the city centre. All rooms are decorated in lovely light tones and are fully equipped. Prices range from 350Hr. - 800Hr., depending on the season and amount of persons booking. Each room comes with a semi kitchen, and there is catering available as well as a handsome discount at a nearby restaurant. Q (economy 400 - 450Hr, standard 500 - 550Hr, business 550 - 800Hr). PW Ekaterina F-3, Hretska 25, tel. (+380) 48 722 64 08,
booking@hotel-ekaterina.com, www.hotel-ekaterina. com. The hotel is named in honor of Catherine the Great who in 1794 issued the decree to found the town the pearl near the sea and named it Odessa. It is located right in the city centre. The building was originally created by the famous architecture Ju.M. Dmitrenko as a mansion. Each room is uniquely designed with Italian furniture, is fully equipped, and can accommodate up to 3. Q12 rooms (suites 650 - 1370Hr). PW

Apartment rental
Centre, 7th floor, Suite 745, tel. (+380) 67 708 55 01/(+380) 67 484 52 36, info@odessaapts.com, www.odessaapts.com. Odessa Apartments offers a large variety of fully serviced apartments in the prime centre of Odesa. Apartments for every taste, budget and style both in the centre and near Arkadia beach. Free airport pick-up. Q studio rooms from $30, two rooms from $40, three rooms from $70, four & five-rooms from $120. PA

Odessa Apartments E-2, Hretska pl., Afina

Odesa In Your Pocket

odesa.inyourpocket.com

where to stay

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(+380) 482 36 58 05/(+380) 48 726 84 06, fax (+380) 48 726 86 89, admin@centralhotel.od.ua, www.centralhotel.od.ua. Is the glass half empty or is it half full? Is Tsentralnyi a great value or do you get what you pay for? You be the judge. The location is a definite plus, as is the English speaking front desk. Be nice to the Soviet-era key lady who patrols the halls - this may be the key to a satisfying stay. Corny jokes aside, the rooms have had some remodelling, the complimentary slippers are a nice touch and the communal toilet is clean. Thats right. If you opt for a cheaper room, youll have to share a toilet. The caf and bar are on the ground floor. Q51 rooms (7 singles 300 - 450Hr, 23 doubles 660 - 700Hr, 1 suites 1100Hr, 9 economy rooms 200 - 300Hr, 8 junior suites 700 - 800Hr, extra bed 100Hr). PHAR6LGW hh 48 738 04 17, fax (+380) 48 738 04 07, reserve@hotelyunost.com.ua, www.hotel-yunost.com.ua. Located on legendary Frantsuzkyi Boulevard, Yunost offers affordable rooms and spacious conference facilities. Arcadia Beach - Odesas coastal dining and entertainment epicentre - and the botanical garden are just a short walk/ride from the hotel. Rooms range from the bargain Twin Economy to the posh Wedding Suite (also a great value). The three modern conference rooms are perfect for both large conferences and small business meetings. The caf and Mediterranean Terrace offer guests a variety of tasty dishes. Banquets can be arranged for up to 45 people; parties and standing receptions can be booked for as many as 60. Other notable services include Wi-Fi, banking, car rental, parking, safe, transfer, travel services, beauty salon, massage, room service and a business centre. Yunost is also known for its enticing specials such as the wedding and honeymoon package and unbeatable deals for business groups. Q152 rooms (18 singles 380Hr, 64 doubles 380Hr, 40 suites 795 880Hr, 30 junior suites 685 - 745Hr, 1 wedding suite 925Hr). PHARUFLGDW hhh

Tsentralnyi (Central) E-3, Preobrazhenska 40, tel.

Apartment hotels
Odessa Executive Suites F-3, Chervonyi prov. 1, tel. (+380) 48 249 62 72, reservations@theodessagroup. net, www.odessaexecutivesuites.com. OES is American managed, with an English speaking staff and situated within walking distance to all attractions, restaurants, cafes, nightclubs, supermarkets, and banks. There are 6 categories of room, fully equipped with kitchenette. Free transport to and from airport and free long distance phone calls to most countries. Very competitive prices, breakfast included. Q20 rooms (suites 100 - 155US$). PAR6KD Odesskiy Dvorik Residence H-4, Uspenska 19,
tel. (+380) 48 777 72 71/(+380) 48 784 53 46, fax (+380) 48 728 75 73, dvorik@online.ua, www. odesskij-dvorik.ua. This hotel has a unique design with a V.I.P room, 7 Elite, 6 luxury, 12 business, 15 Standard . and 2 economy rooms. All rooms are modern, comfortable, with TV, mini-bar, electronic safe, air-conditioner, phone, and internet access option. The hotel includes restaurant (Jazz Cafe), conference hall (up to 80 persons), gymnasium, parking, and WiFi zone. Moderately priced. Q49 rooms (economy rooms 600 - 800Hr, standards 700 - 1080Hr, junior suites 1250 - 1450Hr, suites 1550 - 1750Hr, apartments 3200Hr, extra bed 150Hr). PHAR6FLGKDW

Yunost Pionerska 32, tel. (+380) 48 738 04 04/(+380)

Renaisance Suites Odessa G-3, Rishelievska 11, apt. 22, tel. (+380) 48 787 01 11/(+380) 48 700 5666, info@rso.od.ua, www.rso.od.ua. Great location in the centre with a friendly English speaking staff. We liked the bright rooms and fully equipped kitchen. Very modern with sat TV and computer with internet. Also free phone calls to anywhere in the world! Q12 rooms (12 Total rooms ). PRW

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where to stay
Press Box
Solid, reliable information on everything from where to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend 72 hours in a city. The Guardian You do not even need to pack a guidebook: just pick up an In Your Pocket when you arrive. Simon Calder The Independent & LBC Radio In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks. The New York Times Most of the traditional guidebook companies now have decent websites, with plenty of advice and information either freely available or downloadable for a fee, but inyourpocket.com is also well worth a browse. Concentrating on both well-known and more offbeat European destinations, its free downloadable city and country guides are compiled by locals and regularly updated. The Independent The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that, unlike many expensive travel guides, they are written by native English speakers living in the city they are writing about. That can lend itself to frank, matter-of-fact advice about your destination rather than jaded impressions from world-weary professional travel writers. The Irish Times With so many European cities now within easy range of a low-cost airline flight, this website is a (literally) priceless first stop before your holiday. The guides are free to download and print off as pdfs and have information on where to eat and stay and what to see on European city breaks. The Times In Your Pocket guides are each written by an English language writer who lives locally. All information is also available on the publishers website. Sueddeutsche Zeitung The In Your Pocket series of guide booklets have turned out to be highly useful in avoiding tourist traps and other travel hazards. A mix of Lonely Planet and Time Out, they have become a European publishing phenomenon. International Herald Tribune Odesa In Your Pocket

Guest House
new

785 16 53/(+380) 48 785 16 52, derishele@gmail. com, www.derishele.od.ua. Very cosy atmosphere in a renovated mansion, with friendly staff speaking basic English in a good central location. All rooms are equipped with TV & WiFi. Q14 rooms (2 economy 300Hr, 8 standard 350Hr, 4 superior 400Hr). PARW

De Rishelie F-4, Rishelievska 30, tel. (+380) 48

Budget
Mirage I-5, Lanzheron beach, tel./fax (+380) 48 725 74 16, info@mirage.od.ua, www.mirage.od.ua/en. Mirage is a popular seaside destination for families with small children. Rooms are modern and come with views of the sea or a courtyard garden. Air conditioner and cable TV come standard. The restaurant is open 24 hours and has an eclectic menu with tasty grill and fish items, a great kids section. Popular terrace seating is also available. Q 11 doubles 650Hr. PKW Passage E-2, Preobrazhenska 34, tel. (+380) 48 728
55 00/(+380) 48 728 55 01, fax (+380) 48 728 55 02, passage@londred.com, www.passage.odessa.ua. Once a prestigious hotel, almost nothing has changed about this place since the Brezhnev years. The rooms amenities (i.e. the phone, facets and light fixtures) are working Soviet-era antiques. Though primitive, it has managed to keep some of its charm and offers an affordable alternative to the megaprice joints youll find on and around Deribasivska vul. The helpful staff speaks some English. A Georgian restaurant, bar and salon round-out the available services. Q133 rooms (23 economy 140 - 190Hr, 69 standart 238 - 378Hr, 36 junior suite 369 - 594Hr, 4 suites 678Hr). PA6LGK hh

Palma I-5, Lanzheron beach, tel. (+380) 482 339 339, palma@hotel-palma.od.ua, www.hotel-palma.od.ua. If a tidal wave ever hits Odesa, this place would be completely swamped - thats how close you are to the beach. The hotel has 24 rooms with a double bed in each room and are priced based on the view (rooms with sea views come at a premium). Popular with young couples, advanced booking is recommended. The caf has a bit of everything for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Ukrainian dominates the menu, with the shashlik and Odesa-style sudak being among the favourite items. Q standard 300 - 400Hr, suite 500Hr. PR6LGKW hhh Shalanda Lanzheron beach, tel./fax (+380) 48 787
10 10, www.shalanda.odessa.ua. Shalanda is located 30 metres from the beach and every room comes with a sea view. The hotel features four half-lux rooms (a bit tight) and two lux rooms. The European-Ukrainian restaurant offers up hearty dishes such as Waldorf salad, borsht, salmon, steaks and a succulent grill selection. Breakfast is included in the room rate and is served until 12:00 (perfect for late night partiers). Q junior suite 600Hr, suite 800Hr. P6GK

Hostels
375Hr, dorms 140Hr. TIU Front Page E-2, Koblevska 42, tel. (+380) 96 834 40 74. Qdouble 220Hr, dorms 165Hr. The Babushka Grand Hostel F-5, Mala Arnautska 60, 2nd floor, apt. 16, tel. (+380) 63 070 55 35, babushka. grand@gmail.com.Qdouble 375Hr, dorms 130-160Hr.

Magic Bus Backpackers F-3, Hretska 50, apt. 7, tel. (+380) 97 833 33 58, busofmagic@gmail.com.Qdouble

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restaurants
Symbol key
P Air conditioning 6 Animal friendly T Child friendly A Credit cards accepted I Fireplace L Guarded parking V Home delivery E Live music G Non-smoking areas X Smoking section B Terrace W Wi-Fi internet access

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Gourmets Haven
Odesa has always been a haven for gourmets (even during poor old Soviet times), but the boom in quality and diversity that has taken place over the past decade is unprecedented. The infusion of new cuisine into an already ethnically rich culinary tradition resulted in an impressive range of options including American, French, Jewish, Mexican, Greek, Italian, Spanish, Asian, Ukrainian, Middle-Eastern and more. In the historic centre, youre never more than a couple steps away from your next dining experience. Odesas proximately to the sea means culinary utopia for fish lovers. With so many establishments to choose from, we hope that our guide serves as the solution to what can be an overwhelming question: Whats for dinner?

U Facilities for the disabled S Take away

Ukrainian
Alpina-varenychnaya F-4, Rishelievska 38, tel. (+380) 482 35 81 52. This is a quaint and pleasant caf of SwissUkrainian dcor not far from the centre. It is conveniently divided into 2 distinct sections, smoking and non smoking. The staff is young, friendly and speaks some English. An English menu displays their tasty meals and snacks. We tried the homemade cherry varenyki and it hit the spot! It is a great place if one enjoys the constant blaring of techno music. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAGBSW Compot F-2, Deribasivska 20, tel. (+380) 48 728 77 75, www.compot.ua. Compot is a beloved traditional Ukrainian beverage with a simple recipe: take some fruit, add water, boil it down, dont forget to sweeten and whala youve just created a tasty refreshment. The caf embodies the recipe in that its simple, delicious and has a very sweet location right in middle of Deribasivska vul. A popular coffee and sandwich hangout for local youths, exciting specials are on offer from 9:00 - 12:00. Also at F-5, Panteleimonivska 70, tel. (+380) 482 24 51 45. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PTAGBSW Gallery F-3, Preobrazhenska 25, tel. (+380) 48 729 48 58. Throughout the warm months the restaurant makes use of delightful and popular park-front terrace. When its cold, the restaurant is located on the second floor of the Gallery building. The first floor is home to one of citys biggest flower markets. Proceed through this aromatic maze to the spiral staircase. Once on the second floor youll find a tasteful restaurant wrapped in lush greenery. The menu is a smorgasbord of culinary favourites. Ukrainian dominates but youll also find French, Mexican and even a Waldorf salad. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. . PTAEG
Beach, tel. (+380) 48 735 38 73, www.xutor-ok.com. The restaurant offers tribute in the form of a menu loaded with traditional Ukrainian cuisine. With an unmatched setting on the edge of Taras Shevchenko Park near Lanzheron Beach, this is an extremely popular summer destination and is a wonderful place for travellers to acquaint themselves with traditional local cuisine. Live Ukrainian folk music, a childrens playground and proximately to summer attractions makes this a top pick for families. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PTA6LVEBSW

Tsyplenok Tabaka E-5, Mala Arnautska 109, tel. (+380) 48 722 18 48. The name derives from a special Ukrainian dish, baked chicken with garlic. The design is unique, like being transported to a Ukrainian village. The Ukrainian menu is moderately priced and filled with specialties. There is also a very completive sushi menu with pictures. So if you dont speak Russian, bring a translator or order Sushi. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PGB Ukrainska Lasunka F-2, Deribasivska 17, tel. (+380)
48 725 84 12/(+380) 48 731 54 27, www.lakomka. com.ua. With such a vibrant 19th century Ukrainian village atmosphere its easy to imagine what it must have been like to dine at Taras Shevchenkos cottage, and the menu (in English) doesnt miss a dish from babushkas cookbook. Its to your advantage to be a bit loud yet jovial as the wait staff is either very busy or busy being lethargic. This technique works in drawing attention in a good way. Not surprising for a city by the sea, they have an extensive seafood selection. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. . PAEGSW

Asian
Devarana Tenysta 9/12, tel. (+380) 48718 18 18, www.devarana.com.ua. We felt we were transported to Thailand the first moment we entered. Devarana is not just a restaurant; its a museum, a shrine to the Thai royal family, a gallery, gift shop, boutique, and a spa with authentic Thai message. The dcor is mahogany, gold, porcelain, almost indescribable. The cuisine is Thai, Sushi, and European, and well priced to fit the experience. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. SPA 10:00 - 23:00. PALVGBXSW Kobe G-2, Lanzheronivska 9, tel. (+380) 48 726 98 06, www.kobe.odessa.ua. Authentic Japanese food located right in front of the Opera. The design is traditional Japanese which has won major prizes. The food is cooked by the chef right at the table. Only fresh and natural products are used. The specialty we tried was the delicious Kobe Beef accompanied by one of their famous handmade desserts. English menu with reasonable prizes. There is a beautiful aquarium and childrens corner. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. PTALVGBSW Tokyo House G-3, Rishelievska 11, tel. (+380) 48 784 88 48. Got the munchies? What better cure for your predicament than sushi? Tokyo House is open 24/7 throughout the summer season, and reverts to regular hours in the fall. They offer a 20% discount on all menu items from 02:00 - 16:00. If youre not in the mood for something raw, check out the scrumptious selection of hot dishes. English menu is available. QOpen 24hrs. . POALVGBSW May - July 2011

Khutorok u Morya I-4, Shevchenkos Park, Lanzheron

Kumanets F-2, Havanna 7, tel. (+380) 482 37 69 46. We took a couple visiting from America to Kumanets. An Idaho farm boy and a butchers daughter from Californias cattle country, our friends are used to the finest, freshest, tastiest cuts of meat. Dishes at this Ukrainian themed eatery rip will flavour: we knew our guests wouldnt be disappointed. Indeed, this was the culinary highlight of their trip. The pork dishes drip with succulence and the hearty soups are meals in themselves. Ukrainian tradition requires that diners throw back a shot of samohon (homemade vodka) to stimulate appetite before indulging. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PTAGBS odesa.inyourpocket.com

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restaurants
Brewery
Lustdorf Lustdorfska doroha 140B, tel. (+380) 48
777 96 77, www.lustdorf.com. This beer restaurant is popular for its relaxing atmosphere and traditional fresh German brew. The original European menu has garnered a following among locals and expats alike. Find a comfy niche in one of the three halls or on the terrace, and feast on mouth-watering items from the grill. The brewing process is on display, and theres also a store selling mugs and other paraphernalia. Concerts, live music and enthralling shows draw crowds on weekends. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. . PTALEBS

Yakitoriya F-4, Rishelievska 27, tel. (+380) 482 36

47 80, www.yakitoriya.od.ua. Known for its stunning and stylish interior, Yakitoriya was actually featured in the Russian magazine entitled Best Interiors. Indeed, even the exterior dining area is stunning and stops many patrons from even entering the main dining hall. Not to be outdone, the itamae whips up some of the most flavourful and elegantly arranged sushi in town. Also at F-2, Deribasivska 15, (+380) 48 777 02 03; Dobrovolskoho prosp. 81, (+380) 48 755 77 77. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00. PTAGBSW

European
Boulevard E-2, Katerynynska pl. 1, tel. (+380) 48 777 03 39, en.bulvar-odessa.com. The combination of climbing Potyomkin Stairs and the fresh sea breeze can really kick start the appetite. Could it be a conspiracy or is it just fortuitous that this exquisite European restaurant is located just steps away from the statue of Duc de Richelieu? Famous for its seafood, soups and its simple but romantic ambiance, Boulevards popularity is easy to justify. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. . PTAEGBSW Chas Pik (Rush Hour) Henuezka 1, tel. (+380) 482 34 97 57, www.chaspik.com.ua. If your car breaks down on the road from Arkadia Beach back to centre, this is a fine place to hold up and wait for the tow truck. They offer a substantial selection of hot and cold appetisers, soups and salads. The meat dishes, i.e. the grand veal and the flounder in a signature sauce, are a bit pricey, but arrive to the table in relatively large portions. The neighbourhood can be described as rundown industrial but the restaurant is a class above the surroundings and has the fastest Wi-Fi connection weve yet to encounter here in Odesa. No English menu available, but the servers are fluent enough to help you through the ordering process. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. . PAILVEGBSW Corvin F-2, Lanzheronivska 17, tel. (+380) 482 35 70
37/(+380) 482 35 88 00, www.corvin.ua. A whisky club, pub and restaurant, Corvin has all Irish bases covered. The pub is located on the second floor and offers a plethora of imports (Murphys, Leffe, Paulander, Newcastle, etc.) and all blends of whisky. Sitting at the bar and swapping stories with the bar tender are encouraged. The elegant restaurant on the second floor has a more exotic menu than its rowdier, rougher around the edges counterpart on the third floor. Both restaurants offer up fresh and authentic fare such as rack of lamb, pork steak and chips, Scottish fish pie, homemade sausages, etc. Corvins main attraction is its unbelievable whisky club. With more than 800 different whiskies on hand from all over the world, its impossible not to revel in this quiet niche - sip on something rare, toke a savoury cigar and enjoy. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. . PAVEGBSW

Bulgarian
4 Bolgariana (Four Bulgarians) F-4, Katerynynska
54/56, tel. (+380) 48 784 04 10. We found 4 Bolgarina to be a welcome detour from the mainstream. Everything bursts with unique flavour, especially the exciting traditional Bulgarian salads, cheeses and the Bulgarski sach (large fillets of chicken, veal or pork roasted with vegetables and served in a wine sauce). Each week the chef offers up a new dish of his own creation! Dont fret if you left your Bulgarian dictionary in Varna, the menu is in English and the accommodating, mostly English speaking staff will help you make the right selection. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. . PALGBS

Kavanakh Murphys Irish Pub G-2, Mytna pl. 1A, tel.

(+380) 48 738 45 45. Great lamb dishes highlight a bountiful selection of Irish favourites. The fish lover in your group will snap to attention as he or she discovers the menus fabulous fresh from the mark section. Murphys boasts a relatively wide selection of brew on tap including Guinness (of course) along with other European and local favourites. If youre going for a game, get there early as seating with a TV view is limited. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. . PALVEBS

Odin G-3, Polska 12, tel. (+380) 48 777 09 89/(+380) 48 777 74 70. Here are the top five reasons why Odin will have you coming back every week: 5. One word: Kruovice 4. Mouth-watering reasonably-priced grill 3. American pool, snooker and Russian billiards on the second floor available 24/7 2. Sociable English-speaking staff Odesa In Your Pocket odesa.inyourpocket.com

restaurants

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21, BUNINA STR., TEL.: 34-74-01

WWW.LAVERANDA.COM.UA

1. Odin brews its own exclusive delectable light, premium, dark and red beer This superb bar and grill can be somewhat tricky to find. Its best to head down Bunina vul., turn left on Polska vul. and its a couple doors down. QOpen 24hrs. PTAI LEGBSW

French
Caf Sophie F-1, Nekrasova prov. 7, tel. (+380) 48
737 55 52. Cosy and stylish restaurant is located on the first floor of the Frederic Koklen Hotel. If youre an early bird this place is just for you - breakfast are serving from 07:30. However its highly recommended to come here in the evening also, when live piano music, candlelight and delicate dishes will make your evening relaxing. The menu offers European, French and authentic Odessian cuisine. There is also a huge selection of wine and deserts. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PALGW

Oniks E-1, Sofiivska 23, tel. (+380) 482 34 46 40.

Words like vogue and luxurious spring to mind. With its plush satin interior, private curtained off dining areas, romantic lighting and rich menu Oniks is a nose ahead when it comes to class. Despite the ambiance, the prices are more or less reasonable. The impressive wine card, scrumptious French dishes and desserts and English speaking staff are just some of the highlights on offer. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PTAG

La Veranda G-3, Bunina 21, tel. (+380) 482 34 74 01.

777 88 86. The word трюм (trium) in English means the hold of a ship. To get the full effect of being in the hold 1.guzzle three to five tasty imported beers 2.stare straight ahead at the giant decorative holding casks, and 3.shake your head violently back and forth until the room begins to sway bow to stern. Captivating fish items are on the menu, as might be expected, but locals swear by the meat dishes that are all prepared in Triums signature style. Theres no English menu, and when we asked the server if he spoke English he said, Im like a Labrador Retriever I understand everything, but cant speak. Live music entertains seasick passengers ThursdaySaturday. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00. . PAS

Trium Tavern-Club I-5, Uspenska 13, tel. (+380) 48

La Veranda prides itself on freshness. Indeed, the recent trend in Odesa has been to ignore freshness by packing the menu with an insane number of selections thus confusing the customer to the point when freshness becomes an illusion. Its refreshing to find a menu chopped down to a delectable untarnished shortlist. The country French fish soup, pt and the province style lamb with stuffed vegetables all attest to the brilliance of La Verandas simple plan. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PALEGBSW

International
Basilic G-3, Deribasivska 1, tel. (+380) 482 32 84 84. This is the most obvious launching point for travellers looking to explore Deribasivska vul. Start by paying homage at the statue of adored city founder Jose de Ribas, and then hop across the street for a quiet lunch or dinner at Bagration. This French bistro offers wonderful lunch specials, a loaded dinner men, chic interior, live music and tranquil outdoor seating during the summer season. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTAILVEGBSW

Wasser Maltz Biergarten F-2, Havanna 6, tel. (+380) 48 777 88 88, www.pivnoysad.com.ua. The perfect place to bask in a mellow mood while sipping a cold brewsky and nibbling on something tasty. The beer is as fresh as it gets - they brew their own German style lagers and ales on site. The menu is simple but delicious. Listen to live music (Thursday - Sunday) while enjoying the romantic views of The City Garden. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. . PA6LVEGBS

Indian
London E-4, Uspenska 95, London Hotel, tel. (+380)
48 784 53 78, www.london-hotel.com.ua. A much welcomed addition to Odesas culinary scene has landed at the London Hotel: wonderful spicy Indian cuisine! Luscious lamb, chicken and fish dishes fill a menu that also includes delicious vegetarian (a rarity in Ukraine). The art of seasoning is on display, as the kitchen masterfully wields curry, coriander, cardamom, red and green chilli, cinnamon, saffron, etc., etc. As with all facets of this elegant hotel, expect a hospitable atmosphere and impeccable service. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. . PALGSW

Mexican
Tequila House F-5, Mala Arnautska 69, tel. (+380) 482 33 93 22. Its a sociological fact that more surprise pregnancies can be linked to the consumption of tequila than any other booze on the market, and this cantina proudly serves 20 different brands (Sauza, Rio Grande, Sierra, etc.). Though Mexican cuisine is difficult to authenticate beyond the Mexican boarder, Tequila House comes close. The chimichangas are bursting, the fajitas are always sizzling and the appetisers are just about spicy enough to fool you. This is a fantastic venue for a small party and hungry kids. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PLVGSW May - July 2011

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restaurants
Self-service
While the West may have its fast-food chains, we here in the East have something far better: self-service restaurants. These low budget marvels offer a wide variety of fresh, boiled, fried and baked dishes all laid out before the client ready to be mixed and matched. It may not be sophisticated, but it is cheap and cheerful and the foods surprisingly good. Puzata Khata F-2, Deribasivska 21. Albeit a low budget, family friendly, la carte eatery, the Puzata Khata located on the sixth floor of the Europa shopping centre (Deribasivska vul. 21) offers one of the most exhilarating views of the historic city centre. All restaurants in this chain offer a satisfying selection of traditional Ukrainian dishes. The interiors are inventive and usually combine a 19th century theme with a touch of local flare. Fill the hole for only a few bucks! QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PAUGS Zharu-Paru F-3, Hretska 45, tel. (+380) 48 726 75 33. If you were ever traumatized by the high school lunchroom, youre likely to experience flash-backs as you enter Zharu-Paru. However, the convenient locations and value for hryvnia make this an essential stop for those strapped for cash or time. Traditional Ukrainian is available for your selection and the service comes with a hint of a smile. Also at Uspenska 28/30, Pastera 11. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. . PAS

Pecheskago F-2, Havanna 10/12, tel. (+380) 48

726 09 79, w w w.pecheskago.od.ua. Pecheskago gets our pick for the most enchanting dining experience. Throughout the winter, enjoy the view of City Park wrapped inside a domed glass enclosure. The dome comes off in the summer to reveal a terrace perfect for an exclusive outdoor dining experience. Enjoy inventive arrangements of local and European favourites such as Chteau Bryon and Black Sea flounder. Dont forget to take a fat wallet. Its not that menu items are over the top price wise, but the vibes have a way of keeping you in your seat ordering more. Live music every night during the summer season and Thursday - Sunday during the colder months. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. . PTJA6LEGBSW

Italian
Casa Italia F-2, Katerynynska 8/10, tel. (+380) 48 726 96 26, www.pizzaitaliano.info. This is pretty close to real Italian food! A great variety of pizzas and pastas. We tried the grilled salmon which was delicious. The kitchen is open late, menu is in English, and the prices very reasonable. Seating available for 40+. The service was friendly and quick. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PG
54 55. A fantastic choice for starting or ending a romantic evening, this exclusive restaurant is crisscrossed by nearly all of Odesas romantic strolling routes. Italian lovers wont be disappointed as the inventive fresh fish and grill items perfectly compliment the homemade pasta. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PTJALVEGBSW

Casa Nova G-2, Deribasivska 4, tel. (+380) 482 33

Jewish
03 74. Located under the Great Choral synagogue in the heart of Odessa. Great affordable kosher food, with seating for 80. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. P

Hevron F-4, Rishelievska 30, tel. (+380) 48 715

Rozmarin Mala Arnautska 46A, tel. (+380) 482 34

Picknick F-3, Katerynynska 23, tel. (+380) 48 725 00 09, www.picnic-cafe.com. Walking in, we were immediately impressed with the lovely Roman design. While not so large, the atmosphere is inviting. English menu offers mainly Italian cuisine; it also has Caucasian dishes and a Sushi menu, along with an excellent wine list. Prices are reasonable for this enjoyable eating experience. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PALGBXW Pulcinella F-2, Lanzheronivska 17, tel. (+380) 48 777 30 10/(+380) 48 777 30 11. Were still scratching our heads trying to figure out what the long nosed, masked, classic comedic hero Pulcinella has to do with pizza. His image does help in creating the light and cosy atmosphere that youll find at this Italian restorante. Youll also find some classics when it comes to pizza: American style and Pizza al Italia. Are you the adventurous type? Try the pizza with tuna fish. The inimitable Italian style grill, affordable family prices and fantastic location make this a must for Italian lovers. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. . PAIVEGSW Voyage G-3, Deribasivska 5, tel. (+380) 48 786 03
93, www.hotel-continental-odessa.com. Voyage is owned and operated by the luxurious Continental hotel and offers one of the most elegant dining experiences in Odesa. Fresh seafood items highlight a menu of unmatched European tradition and zest. Steaks and other meat dishes drip with flavour, but again the seafood on offer is not to be missed and includes a fabulous sea bass and dorado dish. Every Saturday, an enticing one day only fresh seafood selection is shipped in special from the Mediterranean. After dinner, smokers may revel in the unique flavour of a Fortuna cigar and this is the only place in town where you can sip on a Birra Moretti. The wine card is also impressive with fantastic French, Italian and Spanish vintages. All servers are professional, abide by western standards and are fluent in English. Breakfast starts at 07:00. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. . PTAULVEGBSW

46 44/(+390) 482 34 73 11, www.rosemarinoodessa.ua. This kosher restaurant is located between the Centre and the train station. The decor is simple seaside and the prices moderate. Special Israeli style dishes are served. Very friendly staff with some English spoken. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat.

Georgian
Mimino H-4, Zhukovskoho 2, tel. (+380) 482 33 25
08/(+380) 482 33 25 09. This Georgian restaurant boasts a remarkable menu, which includes vegetarian dishes. Descending into the cellar seating, its easy to imaging life in a quaint Caucasian village. The relaxed atmosphere demands that one indulge and theres plenty to indulge in. The wine selection is enormous and the dishes are authentically luscious. After dinner, kick back in one of the plush sofas, suck on a hookah and enjoy the live music. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PTALVEG BSW

Pirosmani F-3, Hretska 35, tel. (+380) 48 701 12

06. Named after the famous Georgian painter Niko Prisomani. Its a nice place in the centre, where feels no longer in Ukraine, but in Georgia, complete with Georgian TV. The staff is warm and friendly and tries to speak some English as does their menu. Great Georgian menu with affordable prices. Q PAGBS

Odesa In Your Pocket

odesa.inyourpocket.com

restaurants
Zara Pizzara G-3, Deribasivska 5, tel. (+380) 48 728 88 88. Zaras atmosphere is lively, but not too rowdy; making it perfect for the whole family. The Italian fare is robust, aromatic and reasonably priced. Highlights include fresh spinach salads, lasagne and juicy pork and veal dishes. The calzone was a bit salty, but tasty nonetheless. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. . PTAGBSW

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Price guide
The average price for a main course: more than 20 per person 15 - 20 per person 10 - 15 per person less than 10 per person

Mediterranean
Bernardazzi G-3, Bunina 15, tel. (+380) 48 785 55 85, www.bernardazzi.od.ua. This unique restaurant is located in the famous Odessa landmark building The New Stock Exchange. It was designed by the famous Russian architect Alexander Bernardazzi and built in the 1890s. It is now home to the Odessa Philharmonic. The cuisine is Mediterranean, Odessa flavour, and a Japanese menu, available in English and reasonably priced. The inside holds up to 150 and in the summer there is a Renaissance style summer patio. There are regular concerts, parties and cultural events. This place is definitely worth a visit. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PALEGW
Porto prides itself on offering Odesas freshest selection of seafood from the Black Sea and Mediterranean. The ambiance is modestly elegant, but prices arent too over the top making this a must for fish lovers rich and poor. However, the price on many fish items is listed per 100 grams; ask your server the approximate size of your selection in order to cut down on confusion when receiving the bill. The method of preparation is up to you, items may be sauted, steam boiled or grilled. The menu also pulsates with a variety of fresh salads, pasta dishes, fresh squeezed juices, etc. They stage great holiday specials and entertainment events such as art demonstrations, occasional live music and showings of Chornomorets football games. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PTABSW tel. (+380) 482 34 87 82, www.steak.od.ua. The locals like to congregate out front and pose with the statue of the red and white zebra-striped cow, but inside its all about the beef and vino (wine). There are many delicious dishes on the menu that dont include beef, but dont be ridiculous! The sirloin here is so succulent that youll think youve been beamed from Odesa, Ukraine to Odesa, Texas. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. . PTA6GBW

Shef Caf G-2, Hretska 19, tel. (+380) 48 728 77 55, www.shefcafe.com. Lovely, bright simple design, with friendly staff and English menu. Traditional Odessa cuisine and a European breakfast menu. We tried the house specialty, herringfroshmark, herring with potatoes-delicious! There are homemade drinks, sports TV, and Disco music on Saturday and Sunday. There is outside seating in the Summer, and best of all its round the clock service. QOpen 24 hrs. PAGW

Russian
Aleksandrovskiy H-5, Bielinskoho 13, tel. (+380) 48 725 11 11, www.aleksandrovskiy.com.ua. Housed in a mansion built at the time of Russian Emperor Alexander II and was a haven for musicians and art lovers. It was owned by the famous Odessa merchant Joseph Konelskiy, philanthropist and collector. There are VIP tours available. We saw beautiful paintings and collections of crystal and porcelain on display. There is a wine cellar and cigar room. Handmade cigars were a specialty of the past and still available. The cuisine is Russian and French. There is an English menu and someone there to speak all major languages. Prices are moderate to pricy. We tried the Cutlet Alekandrovskaya which was fantastic. Like eating in a museum! QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAGW

Porto F-3, Zhukovskoho 33, tel. (+380) 48 737 38 38.

Steakhouse: Meat and Wine F-2, Deribasivska 20,

Odessian
Dacha Frantsuzkyiv bulv. 85, tel. (+380) 48 714 31 19, www.dacha.com.ua. Like being at a Russian style dacha. This is a unique opportunity not to be missed. Situated in a colonial mansion with beautiful gardens. There is smoking and non smoking sections and a supervised childrens area. The walls are white washed with wooden floors and the bathrooms are cast iron. The menus are hand written in English and moderately priced. The Gardens are lovely and spacious with a fountain. There is seating for over 150. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PALGXW Klarabara F-2, The City Garden, tel. (+380) 48 741 33
31, www.klarabara-apt.od.ua. Smack dab in the centre is this lovely ivy covered caf. Frilled with antique furniture and always different paintings and photographs on display in the roving art gallery. Reasonably priced with European, Odessa style food and a meditterian grill. There is a spacious terrace for eating right in the park. Q PGBW

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restaurants
Balalaika F-2, Katerynynska 12, tel. (+380) 48 784 07 08/(+380) 48 784 02 03. Feel free to hum the Beatles Back in the USSR as you enter this eatery set in a carved out cosy wooden interior and adorned with balalaikas and other traditional knickknacks. The menu offers an exciting introduction to the local cuisine that is sure to keep any comrade warm. The pickled watermelon, Beluga caviar and roast veal all explode with rich authentic flavour, and if the open grill doesnt wet your pallet you dont deserve taste buds. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. . PAULGSW

Wine
Lavinia F-3, Katerynynska 31/33, tel. (+380) 48 722 66 61. A very popular wine store with a small restaurant upstairs. The dcor is modern and fits the wine theme quite well. One can choose wine at store prices and have it served with the meal at no extra charge. There is also a large selection of whisky and liquors. The menu offers tasty European dishes although a bit on the pricy side. The atmosphere we found very formal, there was no English menu and communication was very difficult. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PA6UL

Seafood
Chervonyi Lobster (Red Lobster) H-3, Marazliivska 1G, tel. (+380) 48 715 02 22. Youll notice right away that this is not a part of the popular American Red Lobster franchise - an unfortunate association for such an elegant restaurant. The enchanting immaculate interior and the unmatched selection of exquisite seafood make this one of Odesas most popular dining destinations. The fresh lobster is an obvious favourite as is the open-air courtyard. The live piano adds another level of lure to the ambiance. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. . PTALEGBS
(+380) 482 33 90 55, www.morskoy.com. A part of the Morskoy Hotel complex, the location and elegant atmosphere more than justify the fifteen minute taxi ride. Choose from a variety of succulent dishes including grilled sturgeon and salmon, shrimp and scallops. If youre not in the mood for fish, try one of the tantalizing beef, pork or mutton dishes. Allow us to recommend a romantic after dinner stroll - City Time is located just metres from the beach. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. . PTALVEGBSW

Cafs
theme of this ultra stylish caf might be described as Victorias Secret meets Betty Crocker. Advanced warning for the indecisive: the plethora of exhilarating Italian selections will have you banging your head against the table in an attempt to choose just one. The fresh homemade mozzarella is a top pick as are the unforgettably rich desserts. The secluded curtained-off seating for larger groups is a posh exclamation on whats sure to be a loaded experience. QOpen 10:00 23:00. PAULVGBSW

Biscuit G-3, Hretska 5, tel. (+380) 48 734 11 11. The

City Time Kryshtalevyi prov. 1/1, Morskoy Hotel, tel.

Bize F-2, Lanzheronivska 26, tel. (+380) 48 784 02 68. A

lovely little French Caf in the centre. Wonderful pastries, cakes, and cookies. The staff is friendly and speaks some English. A great place for a coffee and a chat. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. PGB

Bulgakov E-2, Preobrazhenska 30, tel. (+380) 48 737

Ribonka G-6, Kanatna 85. The specialty here is seafood from the Black Sea. Each room is uniquely designed to make one feel as if in a cosy apartment. There is no English menu and there was a struggle to be understood. The prices are moderate to a pit pricy. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PGBS

34 08. This cosy place is named in honour of the writer Mikhail Bulgakov author of the world famous novel The Master and Margarita. The dcor is really a minor shrine dedicated to the author. The Food is traditional Russian and moderately priced. There is live music on the weekends. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. P

Bunin F-3, Bunina 29, tel. (+380) 482 34 58 51. Although this caf is a trend follower rather than a setter (i.e. Fashion TV, sushi, DJs) its designed with some real class and is worth checking out. A tasty selection of soups, salads, pasta, steaks and grilled meats are on hand. DJ sets add some flavour Friday and Saturday, and a saxophonist entertains every Sunday. The stylish yet relaxing ambiance affirms Bunins motto: Its not important where you work... its important where you rest. Q Open 12:00 - 03:00. POA6LGBSW Fanconi 1872 F-2, Katerynynska 15/17, tel. (+380)
482 34 66 66. Fanconi was established in 1872 making it Odesas oldest caf. That said, there is very little linking this famed caf to its noteworthy past: disappointing for those hoping to sneak a peak into Odesas history, exciting for locals craving only those things glitzy, fashionable and new. Perhaps the only features to have remained constant throughout its history are the scrumptious desserts. Sushi is the craze these days and Fanconi has not merely jumped onto the Japanese bandwagon, but is apparently steering it. They offer an ample selection of sushi and the karaoke lounge kicks off nightly at 20:00. Other mentionables include fantastic terrace seating on a more or less quiet intersection and a modish energetic crowd. QOpen 24hrs. PALBSW 71 51. Like many of ITs competitors, IT has an impressive selection of dishes to choose from. The enticing pick of seafood and kabobs is worth checking out. The exceptional feature about IT is that IT has, perhaps, the most extensive selection of caf style beverages in the city. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. P

Fashion Caf IT E-2, Soborna pl. 2, tel. (+380) 48 777

Odesa In Your Pocket

odesa.inyourpocket.com

restaurants
Grand Prix F-3, Bunina 24, tel. (+380) 48 785 07 01. Grand Prix has a laid back Italian caf meets motor sports theme to it. Local and European dishes dominate the menu; the leafy green salads and select splattering of fish dishes are particularly palate-arousing. They put out great seasonal and breakfast specials such as an omelette with vegetables, baguette with grilled sausages, veal on the bone with ratatouille, etc. Quaint seating on two levels is available along with cosy street side tables. We stopped in for a cappuccino, which arrived to the table with a shot of rich chocolate and a smile. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00. POA6ILGBSW Love Caf F-2, Katerynynska 12, tel. (+380) 48 784 02
03. Like many of its competitors, Love is more of a restaurant than a caf as it has an impressive menu (English available). Unlike many of its competitors, Loves staff showers guests with affectionate service - they speak English too. The focus is on romance, and the outdoor terrace is the perfect setting for those looking to charm the one-night-stand, woo the mailorder-bride or adore the once-in-a-lifetime-perfect-soul-mate. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PTALGBSW 731 57 77. A gigantic Hugh Jackman gawked at us with his trademark smirk from across the room as we sipped our tasty tea. Maner falls into the category we like to call Odesian chic. Fancy draperies, uncomfortable comfortable-looking chairs, two turn tables, sushi, hookah, etc. The menu is eclectic enough to satisfy all in your party with the most note worthy items being the iced coffees (latte, mochachino and frappuccino) a rarity for this part of the world. No English menu but the staff is fluent. This is more of a meet-up-before-clubbing joint, rather than a morning coffee place. QOpen 10:00 03:00. PAILW

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Odesa Coffee Scene


With all the new establishments popping-up, complimenting the already established favourites, theoretically it is possible to visit a different caf everyday and never see the same place twice. The only problem is finding one that caters to the early-bird westerner - most cafs dont open until after 9:00. When the locals finally roll out of bed they tend to congregate at their favourite cafs where they soak in the fresh aromas and quietly recover, like alley-cats licking wounds, from whatever adventure they happened upon the previous night. Most places offer extended and often extravagant menus making that trip to a restaurant a redundant gluttonous frill. Odesas historical diversity is represented in the variety of its cafs. Italian, Ukrainian, Jewish, Belgian, Greek, Middle Eastern and French establishments all put their own original ethnic spin on the drink that connects us all: coffee.

Maner () E-2, Soborna pl. 4, tel. (+380) 48

Sakhar H-4, Uspenska 5, tel. (+380) 48 724 61 15. It was 9:35, and was jonesing for my morning cup of joe. This place doesnt open until 10:00! I sulked, paced, cursed and kicked the curb like a ravenous mental patient. Finally, the doors opened and instant satisfaction! Sakhar has breakfast starting at 16Hr and coffee, the elixir of life. The owner declared the coffee to be the best in the city. You be the judge. Theyre also adequately equipped to handle lunch and dinner. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. P6LS Sherlock G-3, Polska 14, tel. (+380) 482 49 67 14. The entrance to this British (no sh** Sherlock) theme caf is actually on Bunina. Many of the dishes have extremely vivid names, i.e. Stubborn Billy Salad, dont teach your grandmother to suck eggs breakfast and salmon in two sauces (so what if the name of the salmon dish isnt witty, it certainly is delicious). Their specialties come from the grill with the sturgeon shashlyk topping the list. Attentive charming service and the comfortable setting make this a great choice for afternoon tea or a couple pints with your mates. QOpen 09:30 - 02:00. PTAUIVEGBSW
(+380) 482 37 85 90. Shyko is tucked away just off Hretska pl. Enjoy the curbside seating or find a cosy, silent niche inside for a mellow conversation with friends. Dont forget your pocket dictionary - no English menu nor English speaking staff. However, the excellent coffee and breakfast starting at 16Hr more than compensate for the language barrier. Need one for the road? Shyko offers a 20% discount on coffee and dessert to go. Also at Sofiivska 23. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PALGBSW

Marrakesh H-5, Bazarna 19, tel. (+380) 48 737 35 86. Youll have to wade through a mix mash of Ukrainian, American and Italian dishes to find anything associated with Marrakesh; on the other hand, the menu does offer something for all tastes. We gave up on ordering Moroccan and went for the borsht, peppered steak (quite tasty) and mashed potatoes instead. The price was right and the shade and sea breeze on the terrace was just what the doctor ordered. Great daily, breakfast and business lunch specials are available. Get two cocktails for the price of one from 21:00 - 22:00. QOpen 24hrs. P6UVBSW
74 73. Tucked away on a pedestrian only garden walkway just off of Deribasivska vul., this is a must for coffee connoisseurs. The menu and service is exceptional, but with a location like this it really wouldnt matter. Ultra elegant interior and outdoor seating is available. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTAUGBSW

Shyko E-3, Hretska 50, tel. (+380) 48 777 47 47/

Napoleon E-2, Preobrazhenska 28, tel. (+380) 48 717

Paradnaya No 1 E-3, Soborna pl. 1, tel. (+380) 48 716 53 93. The indoor seating is incredibly homey. Its like sitting down for a meal at your aunts house. Everything about the atmosphere is familiar: from the comfy stripe-pattern sofa to the cockatoo chirping in the corner. Out front youll find a small but popular patio. The menu offers a robust selection of salads, traditional soups and tasty meat and fish dishes. Those dishes with familiar western names are actually bastardized versions of the real thing. The Caesar salad, for example, consists of chopped cucumbers, tomatoes, cheddar cheese, smoked ham, croutons, boiled quail eggs and mayonnaise. Where they found this recipe is anyones guess. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PTAEGSW odesa.inyourpocket.com

Siesta Dali F-3, Zhukovskoho 17, tel. (+380) 48 722 05 70. This place has a rather eclectic menu. Youll find American mixed in with some Italian and splattered with some local grub. Situated near a busy intersection, its hard to hear yourself think outside, but its quiet and relaxing indoors. QOpen 24hrs. PAUGBSW Simge Arkadia Beach, tel. (+380) 67 178 80 76. Simge offers a welcome retreat from the sand, sun and surf. Seating is comfortable and the mood is uncommonly mellow for a caf set on Arkadia Beachs boardwalk. The server was very attentive and charming. That was the good, now for a shortlist of this joints deficiencies. Firstly, we watched as the bartender made a cappuccino with instant coffee. Secondly, the champagne arrived to the table with a plastic cork. The food was decent (Ukrainian fish and grill items top the menu), but value for hryvnia was debatable. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PLVENGBS May - July 2011

26

nightliFe

Take the citys raving locals, mix them with adventurous foreigners and infuse maniacal vacationers and youve just created the most beautiful concoction of partiers anywhere in Ukraine. Venturing out, youre sure to find Odesas scene charged as the pubs and clubs convulse with the kind of lust that cries out for just one more night. The highest concentration of clubs is along the shore with most pubs and bars dotting an already rich entertainment landscape in the historic centre. With the help of the overtly friendly locals, its easy to get carried away - please party responsibly.

Mickey ONeils Irish Pub F-2, Deribasivska 13, tel.

(+380) 48 721 53 33. ONeils is extremely popular with expats, and for good reason: familiar food. The pub sits like an alluring emerald on the end of Deribasivska vul. This is a must visit for breakfast lovers and is one of only a few sports viewing venues in the city. The pool tables smack dab in the middle of the pub - right where its supposed to be. Excellent English speaking staff ensures minimal confusion. This is an always welcoming oasis in what can sometimes be a foreigner hostile environment. QOpen 24hrs. PTALVEBSW tel. (+380) 48 722 43 62. The sign out font read the the beer keg: loads of delicious dishes inside. The dishes are delicious and the beer is cheap and tasty. Being a popular hang-out for locals, the service is tuned to a different frequency than what is standard in the West. Dont take this the wrong way, the service isnt bad, but dont expect the server to anticipate your needs/wants. You must master the art of getting their attention. To do this, confidently and clearly say devushka if your server is female or muschina if your server is male. QOpen 09:30 24:00. PGS

Bars & Pubs


tel. (+380) 48 728 14 53, www.dikiy-z.com. You know youre having too much fun when the bouncer taps you on the shoulder and says, Sir, please put your shirt back on, youre scaring the other guests. Blues Bar rocks! Also, this is the first place where when I asked for the menu they gave me a newspaper - read up on local events while ordering from a menu full of classic bar/grill favourites. Live blues and rock until the wee hours of the morning and the best bar staff in town. QOpen 24hrs. Admission 20 - 40Hr. PAEW

Pivnaya Bochka (Beer Barrel) F-5, Pushkinska 76,

Blues Bar Dykyi Z (Wild Z) E-4, Preobrazhenska 66,

Diysno Dobre Pyvo F-3, Zhukovskoho 23, tel. (+380)

482 35 57 59. Diysno is a laid-back neighbourhood pub/ restaurant where locals come to suck the guts out of tasty signature shrimp dishes and pound Ukrainian brew (eight varieties on tap). The atmosphere is cosy and the staff is friendly, but a bit lacking in English ability. The menu (in Russian only) offers an ample selection of traditional salads and soups and reasonably priced steaks and other meat dishes. This is a popular stop for boisterous football fans with local games regularly scheduled for viewing. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PS 57. Gambrinus is not only the name of the unofficial patron saint of beer brewing, but also that of the outstanding local brew that flows in delicious torrents from this establishments taps. While many pubs shun Odesas roots, this fine watering hole embraces them with a big Popeye the Sailormans hug. The cavernous upside down hull adorned with mementos from the sea puts one in the mood to set sail, but before you do be sure and sample the pork leg in sauce or the Gambrinus special (dorado with peppers and onions in a mint almond sauce). Live music is staged just about every night. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PEBS 48 784 08 98, www.london-hotel.com.ua. Q: What does a Scotsman/Irishman/Ukrainian wear under his kilt? A: Lipstick. The extremely courteous bartender at Glasgow, a quiet pub located in the lobby of Hotel London, proudly sports a kilt. Known for its scrumptious cakes, inventive cocktails and real English tea, this pub has the remedy for the British homesick blues. QOpen 24hrs. PALGW

Gambrinus F-2, Deribasivska 31, tel. (+380) 48 726 36

Skipper Pub E-5, Zaslavskoho 27, tel. (+380) 482 33 55 07. Skipper abides by local customs when it comes to service. This may be unchartered waters for greenhorn westerners. Its popularity among Odesians is due in large part to the availability of tradition beer munchies such as krevetki (shrimp), calamari and the dried fish that hangs from stringers above the bar like sinister Christmas decorations. The location, out of the way in a dimly lit neighbourhood, is far from ideal. On the bright side, its a passable joint for sports viewing and you get to fawn over local waitresses who prance about in sailor costumes. Also at vul. Torhova 51. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PBS Veselyi Roger (Jolly Roger) G-2, Devolanovskyi Uzviz
1, tel. (+380) 48 728 65 38. The owner, bartender and even the barmaid are diehard Liverpool fans. Dont worry, you dont have to swear your allegiance or sing Youll Never Walk Alone in order to get great service, but you might want to keep your Man United kit concealed under your jacket. The beers cheap and the grubs satisfying, but these are trivial side notes to the pubs real appeal - this is an exceptionally inviting neighbourhood pub with the citys friendliest staff. We had planned to stay 20 minutes but ended up leaving after four and a half hours. On our way out the door, Victor the bartender reminded us that The secret to a happy life is dont plan just be. Veselyi Roger is located on Mytna pl. (square), which is best accessed via Lanzheronivska vul. The top section of Devolanivskyi vul., between Zhukovskoho and Bunina, is an urban wasteland complete with crumbling buildings and sidewalks and skittish alley-loitering junkies. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. P6LBS

Glasgow E-4, Uspenska 95, London Hotel, tel. (+380)

Odesa In Your Pocket

odesa.inyourpocket.com

nightliFe
Wasser Maltz Biergarten F-2, Havana 6, tel. (+380) 48 777 88 88, www.pivnoysad.com.ua. The perfect place to bask in a mellow mood while sipping a cold brewsky and nibbling on something tasty. The beer is as fresh as it gets - they brew their own German style lagers and ales on site. The menu is simple but delicious. Listen to live music (Thursday - Sunday) while enjoying the romantic views of The City Garden. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. PA6LEGS

27

Driving in Odesa
The condition of most roads in Ukraine is basicall y wretched, especially after the winter thaw. Another problem is the decrepit traffic lights. They are not all that bright, and sometimes it is difficult to tell which light is actually lit and which just has the sun shining on it to make it appear lit. Road markings, especially the all-important centre line, often go missing. In this case you should do what the locals do and decide for yourself where the line is. Just make sure that other drivers understand your intentions. No right turn on a red light, unless you have a special green arrow next to the red light. Fines for moving violations have recently been increased. The hope is that this action will lead to a decrease in some of the idiotic behaviours that have led Ukraine to having one of the worlds worst road safety ratings. Drivers can now expect to pay from 51Hr for minor violations to as much as 3400Hr for major violations such as drunk driving (Ukraine has a zero-tolerance alcohol policy when it comes to being behind the wheel). New seat belt and helmet laws will be enforced. Fines for pedestrian violations have also increased. The days of being able to bribe your way out of punishment are coming to an end, maybe. Traffic patrol will soon be required to use video and photo surveillance for all traffic stops. With a mix of narrow streets and reckless Michael Schumacher wannabes, driving in Odesa can be a hairraising experience. The fact that the city is laid out on a grid makes finding your way around relatively simple. Parking in centre can be difficult, but with a little patience and a good eye youre likely to find a free spot. The area around Deribasivska and Hretska pl. works like Chinese finger-cuffs - easy to get in but tricky to get out - and is best avoided. As you enter and exit the city, watch out for the numerous speed traps! According to Ukrainian law, foreign drivers must carry an international driving licence in addition to the licence from their home country. International licences can be acquired in your country of origin. Foreign vehicles can stay in Ukraine for no more than two months. Extensions can be obtained via registration with the National Auto Inspector ( ).

Clubs
728 84 82, www.morgan-club.com.ua. Popular with locals and expats alike, Captain Morgans proudly encourages lewd and wild behavior including shots, table dancing and blatant flirtations with the opposite sex. What else would you expect from joint that displays a banner that reads drink and dance? A DJ spins atop the bar and all unconsciously convulse to the rhythm. This place is infectious, in a good way. The only drawback is the 50 UAH cover charge, but thats chump change when you consider the good times youll have. The kitchen whips up first-rate food (menu in English), and servers speak some English. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00. Admission 50 - 70Hr. PAW

Captain Morgan F-3, Zhukovskoho 30, tel. (+380) 48

Dykyi Z E-4, Preobrazhenska 66, tel. (+380) 48 728 14 53. You know youre having too much fun when the bouncer taps you on the shoulder and says, Sir, please put your shirt back on. Youre scaring the other guests. Dykyi Z rocks! Also, this is the first place that gave me a newspaper when I asked for the menu - read up on local events while ordering from a menu full of classic bar/grill favourites. Live blues and rock until the wee hours of the morning and the best bar staff in town. QOpen 21:00 - 24:00. Admission 20-40Hr. Hali Gali F-2, Chaikovskoho prov. 18, tel. (+380) 48 722 17 18. Do you like models? Do you like models in lingerie? Do you like models in lingerie dancing on top of the bar? If your answer was yes to one or more of the questions above, Hali Gali is for you. This spaciousness establishment is, for obvious reasons, very popular with expats. The DJ spins the house and you bring the funk. Have fun, but mind your manners. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PALW Palladium G-6, Italiiskyi bulv. 4, tel. (+380) 48 728 65
66, www.palladium.com.ua. This huge modern complex has everything; restaurant with Odessa and European cuisine, lounge caf, nightclub-disco-restaurant with capacity for 1,500, 3 bars. The hotel has 23 rooms ranging from standard to superlux, and a healthcare-VIP complex with Turkish bath, Finnish sauna, swimming pool, spa pool, sun lounge, etc. It is located near the train station and the staff is very friendly and English speaking. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. PLEGX

YO Club G-3, Polskyi Uzviz 15, tel. (+380) 482 37 15 15/(+380) 48 714 48 01, www.club-yo.od.ua. Not so long ago, this place was filled with the screeching clamour of factory equipment. Today, house and techno rhythms reign. The club is divided into different zones, but the basic laws of social ecstasy prevail throughout. On the ground floor, a 14 kilowatt progressive sound system penetrates the marrow with trendy European club sets. Nostalgia is on special in the Disco Bar, and Whisky Bar stimulates light conversation with muted background tunes. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. Admission 80Hr. PAEW Zazhygalka (Z) F-3, Katerynynska 35
(entrance from Zhukovskoho), tel. (+380) 48 785 67 27, www.russtriptease.com. Zazhygalka claims to put on a non-stop striptease of beautiful dancers, complete with private shows and table dancing and water-strip shows. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PAL

Taxi
In Ukraine every car is a potential taxi - just hold your arm out on any street if you dont believe us. Metered taxis dont exist, so youll have to haggle over the price with your driver. Foreigners are fighting an uphill battle in getting a fair price, but be sure to settle on the amount before getting in to avoid giving the impression of having bottomless pockets. Ordering a taxi by phone can help you avoid surprises, as prices are usually fixed. Ararat tel. (+380) 482 37 10 30 Champion tel. (+380) 48 720 00 00. Formula-1 tel. (+380) 48 717 17 17. Forsage tel. (+380) 482 33 32 22. Joker tel. (+380) 482 32 23 22. Pantera Express tel. (+380) 482 34 20 00/(+380) 48 777 30 00/50 00.

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what to see
Odesas centre is densely crammed with fascinating, inspiring and unique attractions that draw foreigners in packs. Ukrainian and Russian tourists tend to head straight for the beach, but inevitably make their way to Deribasivska vul. (street) in order to pose in, on and around the many monuments, statues and relatively rare centuries old architecture. Odesa became one of the most important cities during the Russian Empires final epoch and its museums, overflowing with amazing and rare relics, attest to the cities former and current prominence. built in 1809 and quickly established itself as the centre of Odesas cultural scene. When it burnt to the ground in 1873, local patrons were devastated. The theatre was rebuilt in 1887 by master architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. These two brilliant designers solidified their reputations with the construction of theatres in Vienna, Budapest, Dresden and Zagreb. The richness of this venues history is stirring. As you take your seat, imagine Tchaikovsky and Rachmaninoff tapping their batons on the conductors stand. Can you see Caruso, Chaliapin, Shobinov and Solomiya Krusceniski approaching the spotlight ready to flex their vocals? Is that Anna Pavlova and Isadora Duncan spinning pirouettes up against the backdrop? If the curtain could talk it would tell amazing stories of nearly 200 years of astonishing performances.

Essential Odesa
The City Garden F-2. Constructed in 1803, Odesas first
park is located just off Deribasivska and was a gift from Jos de Ribas and his brother to the locals as gratitude for their trust and admiration. Contemporary Odesians rub elbows with tourists drawn in by the parks fountain - a popular place to relax and socialize. A live orchestra stages regular performances. Vibrant bronze statues of lions, literary heroes and the eccentric sportsman Sergei Utochkin spring up from the manicured lawns and beg to photographed.

Passage E-2, Deriba-sivska. An intriguing shortcut from

Deribasivska to Preobrazhenska, Passage is known for its beautiful architecture and alluring sculptures that adorn the ledges above the alleyways boutiques. Though in need of some repair, even the most pretentious traveller will be charmed by this passages uniqueness.

Deribasivska E/G-2. One of the citys main attractions,

this is arguably the best place to grab a bite, unwind in a caf or go for a stroll. The street was named in honour of Jos de Ribas, a Russian Imperial Navy admiral of SpanishIrish origin and hero of the Russo-Turkish War. Unmistakable to Soviet people, the street has been the centrepiece of various films, books and songs. The scene is always colourful and there is an energy here that draws one listlessly across the cobble.

Scientists Palace F-2, Sabanaiev Mist 4. Built as a residence for Count M.Tolstoy, a famous patron of the arts, this structure is a wonderfully preserved example of prerevolutionary architecture. The count and his stunning wife, Yelena Grigoriyevna, established the first emergency medical service in Odesa and constructed the citys largest and most elaborate library. Documentation for this sights inclusion in UNESCO has recently been filed and is under consideration. Sea Terminal G-1, Prymorska 6. Odesas sea terminal was constructed in 1967 and restored into its modern shape in 2000. Many westerners find reassurance in its contemporary glass and metal architecture. The port not only welcomes vessels, but is a tourist and cultural centre as well. The Odesa Hotel casts a dominating shadow over the other sights and facilities that include showrooms, a yacht complex, a marine life centre and a marine art gallery. Statue of the Duc de Richelieu G-2, Prymorskyi
bulv. The great-great-grandson of a well-known cardinal, Richelieu was exiled to Russia from France by Marie Antoinette in 1790. He joined the Russian Imperial Army and fought in the Russo-Turkish War. He was later appointed by Tsar Alexander I as governor of Odesa. The citys progressive planning and development is credited to his ingenuity and determination. His goal was for Odesa to be recognised as a truly European city. One interesting note: at the base of the monument, coins and medals from the time of Louis XVI, Catherine II, Paul I, Alexander I and Louis XVIII are embedded.

Golden Child Sculpture G-1, Prymorska. The chubby

bronze baby busting out of a futuristic metallic egg in front of the port station is a representation of The Golden Age. The boy looks down philosophically at visitors who grab his toes and pose. Locals believe that touching the toddler will ensure a successful voyage.

House with Telamons F-1, Hoholia 1. In the front corner of this building, two toga wearing Greeks are battling over a gigantic Christmas tree ornament that seems to be holding up the entire structure. If not for Ukrainians bad taste when it comes to balcony construction, one might describe this place as an architectural gem. The house was bestowed to the city by Baron Von Falz-Fein, an Odesian of German decent, and is located on one of Odesas most beautiful streets, where traffic is light and silence not an illusion. Opera and Ballet Theatre G-2, Chaikovskoho prov.
1, tel. (+380) 48 780 15 09/722 22 30. One of the best theatres in Eastern Europe, Opera and Ballet Theatre was

Opera and Ballet Theatre

Odesa In Your Pocket

odesa.inyourpocket.com

30

what to see

State Scientific Library

St. Pauls Lutheran Cathedral (Kir che) Novoselskoho 68. The brainchild of Italian architect

The Central Synagogue of Odesa F-4, Yevreiska

Francesco Boffo, St. Pauls was originally constructed in 1824. By the 1890s, the congregation had outgrown the building, and an expansion project was commissioned. Reopened in 1897, the new church could accommodate up to 1200. Houses of worship were not immune to the radical changes that took place during Soviet rule, and St. Pauls was transformed into a sports hall. Fire devastated the structure in 1976, and a pile of rubble marked the site until a recent movement to rebuild finally garnered necessary support. The new cathedral promises to be a much needed centre for Odesas Lutheran and German communities. A couple interesting historical notes: Teofil Richter, father of virtuoso Sviatoslav Richter, played organ here and Leon Trotsky, V. I. Lenins right hand man, attended St. Pauls school. In his memoirs, Trotsky wrote: St. Pauls Realschule sowed in me, contrary to its direct purpose, the seeds of enmity for the existing order.

Established as a small house of worship in 1808, by the beginning of the 20th Century it had expanded into one of the Russian Empires grandest Russian Orthodox cathedrals. With elbow room for 12,000, it was the regions religious epicentre. Each stage of expansion reflected the great leaps in development experienced by Odesa and the surrounding area. In 1936, Soviet authorities ordered the plundering and destruction of this architectural jewel. Contrary to popular belief, it was not blown up, but cruelly disassembled. Restored in 2005, what you see today is only a partial reconstruction of the original.

Saint Preobrazhenskys Cathedral (Sobor) Soborna pl. This is the largest of Odesas Orthodox cathedrals.

25. tel. (+380) 48 2 34 78 50. The Central Synagogue was constructed by architect P. Morandi in 1850. Its faade and interiors are a mix of Florentine and Romanesque. During the Soviet era, the synagogue was seized and used by the Odesa Pedagogical Institutes faculty of physical training. The prayer hall was transformed into a gym, and its height was halved by an intermediate floor. The arched lateral openings were blocked and classrooms were built in the balconies. In 1996, the synagogue was returned to Odesas Jewish community. Rosh Hashanah 1996 marked the first time in decades that Jewish people gathered within the synagogue. In the years that followed, the structure underwent profound reconstruction. A mikvah (a pool used for ritual purification) was introduced and a bimah (pulpit) was reinstalled. Quotidian prayers are currently held here, as well as festivals that attract hundreds of worshipers. The Central synagogue houses the office of Odesa Regions Chief Rabbi Shlomo Baksht, the Ohr Sameakh weekly newspaper and Ohr Sameakh TV. The library offers an impressive selection of books and films on Jewish culture, history and traditions. Regular seminars on Judaism are hosted in the library, and the knowledgeable English speaking staff is on hand to answer any inquiries. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat.

Alexander Pushkins Museum G-3, Pushkinska


13, tel. (+380 482) 22 74 53. Visitors to this museum will become acquainted with the adventures of Odesas most famous short term resident: the esteemed Russian poet Alexander Pushkin. Banished for his political writings, Pushkin found solace in Odesa where he spent 13 frui tful months. The museum is dedicated to telling this story. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

Museums

Teschin Mist (Mother-in-law Bridge) F-1, bulv. Mystetstv. This is one of the longest bridges in Odesa. Legend has it that a high-ranking official commissioned the bridge in order to be closer to his mother-in-laws scrumptious dumplings. Anyone with a Ukrainian mother-in-law will see right through this lie. In spite of the delicious home cooking, most son-in-laws dream in vain of keeping mom out, perhaps with prison style walls and razor wire or, better yet, a couple hungry Dobermans on patrol in the yard in case mom decides to drop in for another unscheduled visit. A local newlywed superstition requires that the happy couple secure a lock on the bridges steel railing and throw away the key. This will ensure a lasting marriage. Vorontsovskyi Palace F-1, Vorontsovskyi prov. 2.
A magnificently reconstructed citadel located on the site of on an ancient Greek settlement and Turkish fortress, it suffered many devastating assaults and misfortunes. Next to the palace stands Vorontsovskyi Belvedere. Reminiscent of colonnades constructed in ancient Greece, it is especially stunning when viewed from the sea.

Archeological Museum G-2, Lanzheronivska 4, tel. (+380) 48 722 01 71, www.archaeology.odessa.ua. Even with its somewhat diminished collection, this museum inspires delight and wonder. One of the oldest of Odesas museums, it was founded in 1825 and later moved to a specially designed facility in 1883. An impressive exhibit of the Tripolye, Chernyakhovo and other ancient Ukrainian cultures is on hand. The most popular displays are the ancient sarcophaguses and the rich collections of jewellery and other precious artefacts, some of which date back to 1000 B.C. The ensemble of the Egyptian antiquities is the third largest in the former Soviet Union. Due to the spooky atmosphere, locals are convinced that the place is haunted. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 18Hr, children 6Hr. Excursions 40Hr. odesa.inyourpocket.com

Odesa In Your Pocket

what to see
Filiki Eteria F-3, Chervonyi prov. 20, tel. (+380) 482 35 71 36, www.hfcodessa.org. Filiki Eteria (Greek meaning society of friends) has been functioning in Odesa since 1979 as a branch of the Regional History Museum. In the days leading up to the citys 200th anniversary, Odesa opened the Greek Cultural Foundation, which is also a functioning part of the museum. These buildings originally belonged to Greeks, and in 1814 functioned as the secret meeting place for the establishment of the revolutionary organisation Filiki Eteria, whose objective was independence for all Greeks from Turkish occupation. The history of the creation, administration and activities of Filiki Eteria are on display. The exhibitions are a stirring tribute to the heroic revolutionary members of Odesas Greek community. Enjoy excursions, lectures, thematic conferences and student oriented lectures. Works continue to be updated and expanded. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fine Art Museum E-1, Sofiivska 5A, tel. (+380) 482 23 82 72, www.museum.odessa.net/fineartsmuseum. This museum is located in the former private residence of Count Pototsky, which was purchased by the city and inaugurated in 1899. The 26 halls host a variety of intriguing exhibits - from ancient icons to modern art. Kiprensky, Topinin, Ayvazovsky, Vrubel, Roerich, Benua and Levitan are just some of masters whose art adorns the museums walls. The most curious, must see attraction is the subterranean grotto with a waterfall - an ideal place for a romantic hook-up. QOpen 10:30 - 16:30. Closed Tue. Last entrance one hour before closing. Admission 15Hr, children 7.50Hr. Literature Museum G-2, Lanzheronivska 2, tel. (+380) 48 722 33 70. As you stroll the museums halls, silent portraits gaze down and draw you into their lost world. Books, manuscripts and the personal effects of writers and poets who lived and worked in Odesa (from Pushkin to Bunin) are on display. Small modern sculptures of beloved literary heroes and their authors adorn the museums courtyard. Besides literary exhibits, the museum also hosts art exhibitions, concerts, book presentations, conferences and cultural activities. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Museum of Waxwork F-2, Rishelievska 4, tel. (+380) 482 22 34 36. All of Odesas greatest celebrities have been gathered in one place: The Museum of Waxwork. This high society circle currently consists of 26 waxy individuals. The good news is that the museum is expanding its display. The bad news is that the museum will be close until spring for this expansion. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 25Hr, students 20Hr, children 5Hr. Numismatics Museum F-3, Hretska 33, tel. (+380) 48 725 02 77, www.museum.com.ua. Who knew that numismatics could be so fascinating? This museum opened its doors to visitors for the first time on January 1, 1999 in commemoration of the citys 205th anniversary. Within its impressive collection, the museum has over 2500 coins and antiquities from various Ukrainian epochs. The collection of relics from the Bosporan Kingdom, an ancient group that inhabited the Northern Black Sea Region for approximately a thousand years, is a must see. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission is free. Regional History Museum F-2, Havanna 4, tel. (+380) 482 22 84 90. Founded in 1955, this museums exhibits are housed in a 19th Century mansion. More than four thousand articles, many of which are priceless, are on display in 12 halls and represent the Odesa region from the 14th Century to the present. The Stara Odesa (Old Odesa) exhibit occupies the second floor. Maps, weapons, engravings, metal-work, paintings, documents and household implements tell the story of the different peoples who fought and died for control of the region. A notable display of publications including a 1581 Ostrozka Bible, a 1606 Trebnik prayer-book and other ethnographic materials offer a literary peak into the time when Cossacks ruled. QOpen 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Fri. odesa.inyourpocket.com

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Odesa Jewels
Western and Eastern Ar t Museum G-3, Pushkinska 9, tel. (+380) 48 722 48 15, www. oweamuseum.odessa.ua. If you only have time to visit one museum in Odesa, this is the one. Paintings and sculptures by Michelangelo, Peter Paul Rubens, David Teniers, Sebastian del Piombo, Merisi da Caravaggio, Frans Hals and other masters are on display. Does this museum sound familiar? Perhaps you heard the disturbing news. On July 30, 2008 Caravaggios Taking of the Christ, a painting valued at 100 million dollars, was lifted in one of the worlds most lucrative heists. It seems that only a miracle can bring this spectacular work back to Odesa, but miracles have been known to happen The museum proudly presents two paintings by Dutch master Frans Hals. St. Matthew and St. Luke were painted in the 1620s and are two of the most valuable works on display in Ukraine. The tale of how these paintings found their way to Odesa is truly amazing. Catherine the Great, the worlds most distinguished ar t collector, purchased four of Hals evangelist paintings in Holland near the end of the 18th Century. The ships that were transporting these and other valuables back to St. Petersburg were hit by a brutal storm. One ship sank and the other suffered extensive damage. All four masterworks were believed lost at sea. In 1958, the improbable happened. While perusing Odesas Privoz Market, an art collector was drawn to an old woman selling what appeared to be an ancient painting. Convinced that this was the work of a master, the collector invited the woman back to the museum. She wanted six roubles for the painting; the museum generously gave her nine. A comparable painting was later discovered in the museums store room. An expert from the Hermitage was the first to notice striking similarities between the stored piece and the painting purchased from the old woman. After further research, experts concluded that these were, in fact, two of the missing Hals masterpieces. Both works were proudly displayed in Odesa until, in 1965, they took part in an exhibition in Moscow. While at the Pushkin Museum, St. Luke was savagely cut from its frame. Detectives worked diligently, but hope of ever recovering the painting quickly faded. Luckily, the blundering thieves quarrelled, couldnt come to terms with local scum and began to proposition would be foreign buyers. They eventually crossed paths with a secret service agent. The priceless piece was returned in sorry shape, having spent a year and half rolled up in a tube and stored in a hot dry place. Experts feared that the work was lost, but after two years of delicate restoration the painting was returned to the museum in miraculous condition. The fate of the two other pieces believed lost at sea has also become known. St. Mark has been in the hands of a private German collector for more than 30 years. St. John was sold at auction to American J. Paul Getty and is currently stored at the museum in Los Angeles that bears his name. QOpen 10:30 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 5Hr. May - July 2011

32

what to see
Potyomkinski Skhody City tours
Alvona Pushkinska 8, tel. (+380) 48 777 25 50, inform@ alvona.com, www.alvona.com. Diligence H-5, Velyka Arnautska 4, tel. (+380) 482 37
30 37, fax (+380) 482 37 07 27, www.diligence.com. ua. Diligence provides high quality tourist services including accommodation, excursions, transfers, etc. All city tours are organised by knowledgeable specialists and conducted by experienced guides. Restaurant and club reservations, and tickets to shows and concerts are also available. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Sat 11:00 -15:00. A tel. (+380) 482 729 38 03, www.port.odesa.ua.

Odesa Sea Port Tourist Bureau G-1, Prymorska 6,


These gigantic, instantly recognizable stairs were designed in 1825 by architects Francesco Boffo, Avraam Melnikov and Pote, and built in 1837-1841. As the story goes, Duke Voronzov paid 800,000 rubbles for the stairs, which he commissioned as a gift for his wife Elizabeth. (Oh honey! Steps. Just what I always wanted.) Initially consisting of 10 ledges, the original 200 stairs stretched nearly to the sea. However, during the construction of Prymorska vul., eight stairs were buried and, as residents like to point out, still lie beneath the pavement.

Prime Excursion Bureau Kyiv, Schekavytska 30/39,


suite 4, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 0 44 227 77 78/207 12 55/0 99 550 00 00, info@primetour .ua, www.primetour.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Strekoza Bazarna 33, office 17, tel. (+380 48) 722 00 11/722 33 11, vasha@strekoza.in.ua, www.strekoza. in.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. UkraineFare F-4, Yevreiska 24, office 19 (gates lock code 24 (press together) last door in the right corner of the courtyard), tel. 777 58 74, www.ukrainefare.com.

How the stairs got their name


On the evening of 14 June 1905, the Prince Potyomkin of Tauris a mutinous battleship of Imperial Russias Black Sea fleet set anchor at Odesas port. Sensing an opportunity, socialist revolutionaries mobilized the citys dissident workers and took to the streets. The revolutionaries never managed to linkup with the mutinous sailors and the movement was violently squashed by Imperial forces. Most of the mutinous sailors managed to escape by setting sail for Romania, where they abandoned the Prince Potyomkin of Tauris. The stairs became world renowned following the 1925 release of Sergei Eisensteins film depicting the mutiny entitled Battleship Potyomkin. The films violent and climactic scene, set on the stairs, played on movie screens around the world. The stairs were officially given the name Potyomkin in 1955, in honour of the 50th anniversary of the Battleship Potyomkin Uprising. Potyomkin Stair factoids Every year, Odesa hosts a race Up the Potyomkin Stairs. The record is 22.8 seconds. The Potyomkin Stairs were voted the sixth the most beautiful stairs in Europe, according to a marketing survey. Due to the winding coastline, the Potyomkin Stairs actually descend to the sea not to the south as it may seem, but to the northeast. During the Day of Odessa, a celebration takes place on the stairs complete with a festive concert and fireworks.

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Dolphinarium

Funicular
To the right of the stairs, there is a free funicular that connects Prymorska vul. and Prymorskyi bulvar. It was built in 1902, replaced in the 1970s by an escalator, and then restored after the escalator broke in the 1990s. The new funicular opened on September 2, 2005 in honour of Odesas 211th jubilee. The funicular consists of two wagons, each accommodating 12 passengers. Travel time is 1 minute 10 seconds.

Dolphinarium I-5, Lanzeron beach 25, tel. (+380) 48

Potyomkin Stairs G-2/3, Prymorska. Odesa In Your Pocket

722 77 17, www.nemo.od.ua. The largest dolphinarium in the former Soviet Union offers an unforgettable array of experiences including swimming, communicating and diving with dolphins. Above and underwater photo and video sessions with dolphins and seals can be ordered. Extremely popular with vacationers looking for an etched in your mind event, it makes sense to book in advance. Shows times are Tuesday through Sunday 12:00, 15:00, 18:00 and 20:00. A night show on the weekend starts at 21:30. Admission 80Hr, night show 120Hr, children under 5 free.

odesa.inyourpocket.com

Cosmopolitan odesa
From its founding in 1794 until the Bolshevik Revolution of 1917, Odesa was Eastern Europes melting pot. Dozens of nationalities alloyed into the beautiful creation we know today as Odesians. A complete assimilation did not take place, however. On the contrary, individual national identities have survived for generations and different cultures and religions continue to peacefully coexist. This atmosphere of mutual respect is credited to Odesians ability to poke fun not just at others, but at themselves. World Club of Odesians explains that each of the citys cultures is more beautifully ridiculous than the next, and people have learned to laugh at themselves and at everything in the world, even at pain and at those things they love. Those things that are sacred for you may be absurd for your neighbour, but your neighbour is neither a bum nor a thief. Maybe he is right, maybe not. But there is no reason to loose sleep over it. Armed with this wisdom, multinational Odesa continues to thrive.

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German Odesa
While perusing centre, youll notice that the Italians, Greeks, French, Jews and even the Poles have streets named in their honour. But what about the Germans? Surely, their contribution to marvellous city warrants recognition in the form of a street name. It turns out that there was a street at one time, but the name was changed. The Nazi occupation of Odesa is still a sensitive issue locally; dont expect the name to be restored any time soon. That said, the contribution of Odesas German community cannot be overlooked. Thousands immigrated from Germany, Austria and Switzerland in the 19th Century and made an immediate impact as coach makers, gunsmiths, watchmakers, bakers, printers, photographers and druggists. Brewing also fell to capable German hands; brands such as Santsenbauer and Kempe became regional favourites.

The Gates of Zion


From Odesa Mama to Hero Town, locals have many terms of endearment for their beloved city. The Jewish community refers to Odesa as The Gates of Zion. Throughout the first half of the 20th Century, Jews set sail for Palestine from Odesas port. But Odesa was not just a layover; it has had a large established Jewish population since the early 19th Century. During these trying anti-Semitic times, it was believed that only Odesa offered Jews the possibility of a normal life. And what did Jewish Odesians do? Everything and then some. They worked as shopkeepers, craftsmen, salt dealers, shoemakers, grain vendors, dockworkers, moneylenders, jewellers, lawyers, engineers, doctors and artists. Odesa continues to be Ukraines centre for the Jewish community, and Jews continues to play an inseparable role in the citys growth and prosperity.

Odessos
Its only fitting that we begin our story of cosmopolitan Odesa with the Greeks. Not only is the name Odesa of Greek origin, archaeologists discovered a 2600 year-old Greek settlement on the hill above the port. The next time youre strolling down Prymorskyi bulv. imagine toga and sandal wearing Greeks bustling about an outpost on the edge of a mighty empire. Filiki Eteria Odesas Greek heritage is not linked only to ancient times. Many Grecians immigrated during the industrial boom of the 19th Century. Political exiles and freedom fighters found a welcoming urban centre ideal for concealing and coordinating uprisings. Filiki Eteria (Society of Friends) was secretly formed in 1814 at a safe house located on Chervonyi prov. Their objective was independence for all Greeks from Turkish occupation. From humble beginnings in Odesa, they went on to play a critical role in the victory over the Turks in the Greek War of Independence (1821-29). During Soviet times, authorities attempted to deport all Greeks from the region; however, this was not to be the final chapter in Odesas Grecian saga. A handful of Greeks survived this era of tyranny, and a small community continues to call Odesa home.

Frantsuzskiy Bulvar
Dont be distracted by the champagne with the Frantsuzskiy Bulvar label, the contribution of French Odesians extends well beyond winemaking. Armand Emmanuel Sophie Septemanie du Plessis, duc de Richelieu (say that five times fast) was exiled to Russia by Marie Antoinette in 1790. After serving valiantly in the Russian Imperial Army, he Duc de Richelieu was appointed governor of Odesa by Tsar Alexander I in 1802. A progressive planner, Odesa blossomed under his leadership. De Richelieus compatriot, Louis Alexandre Andrault comte de Langron, took over as governor in 1815. He established Odesa as a duty-free international trade zone. As a result, the city boomed, and prosperity flowed to all levels of society. In light of their tremendous contributions, its no surprise that their names have been immortalized in tributes including a statue of de Richelieu (Prymorskyi bulv.), Rishelievska and Lanzheronivska streets, Dukovskyi Garden and Lanzheron Beach. Many other Frenchmen found welcoming niches. For example, the first banks belonged to Frenchmen, and Odesas first newspaper was the Messager de la Russie Meridionale, ou Feuill Comerciale. Unfortunately, we dont have space in our tiny publication to detail the contributions of the dozens of other nationalities that helped give Odesa Mama her flare. One thing can be concluded: each of Odesas cultures is like the bricks in the ancient apartment or hotel you happen to be sleeping in - take out one brick and the ceiling is likely to fall in on your bed.

Italian Odesa
The inscription on Odesas original coat of arms (1798) was written in four languages: Russian, Greek, German, and Italian. Each of these groups played significant roles in shaping this amazing city, and the Italians deserve much of the credit for the actual shape. Just as in St. Petersburg, Italian architects left an elegant mark on Odesa that continues to delight travellers, and inspire artists and writers. Names like Franz Frapolli and Francesco Boffo will be forever embedded in the citys history. Designed by Frapolli, the Felix de Ribas House (Deribasivska 13) has remained intact for nearly 200 years. Boffo designed the Potemkin Stairs, the citys most recognized feature. He is also responsible for the Vorontsovskyi Palace, which is not only beautiful, but apparently indestructible. On April 10th, 1854 the structure withstood an Anglo-French bombardment of more than 200 cannonballs, one of which is still embedded in a wall on the ground floor. As with the Greeks, a small community remains, and a new wave of Italian prospectors has come seeking fortune in contemporary commercial markets.

odesa.inyourpocket.com

May - July 2011

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getting around
Car rental
Odesa International Airport, (+380) 67 218 21 42/(+380) 67 218 21 41, odessa@avis.com.ua, www.avis.com. ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A 10 30/(+380) 48 725 00 33, www.kiyavia.com/en/. Kiy Avia provides airline tickets, hotels booking and tour around Ukriane. Also at Odesa International Airport. QOpen 8:00 - 20:00. Malev Hungrian Airlines Odessa International Airport, 2nd floor, tel. (+380) 48 749 54 75, fax (+380) 48 762 36 36, www.malev.com.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Polish Airlines Odessa International Airport, 1st floor, tel. (+380) 48 749 55 95, fax (+380) 48 749 55 80, www.lot.com. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.

Kiy Avia E-2, Preobrazhenska 15, tel. (+380) 48 725

Europcar F-5, Rishelievska 59, Chorne More Hotel, tel. (+380) 48 777 40 11, www.europcar.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hertz G-1, Prymorska 6, tel. (+380) 48 729 33 58, odesa@hertz.ua, www.hertz.ua/en. Q Open 09:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sixt Odesa International Airport, tel. (+380) 67 441 26 52, www.sixt.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. VRC G-3, Bunina 16B, tel. (+380) 48 734 57 77, www. vrc.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A

Tavrey Airlines Frantsuzkyi bulv. 42/1, tel. (+380) 482 37 07 73, fax (+380) 48 786 00 06, www.tavrey. com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Turkish Airlines G-3, Pushkinska 19, office 17, tel. (+380) 34 79 06/(+380) 34 79 07, fax (+380) 34 79 04, www.thy.com. Also at Odesa International Airport, tel. (+380) 482 49 00 90. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Ukraine International Airlines Odessa International Airport, 1st floor, tel. (+380) 482 37 57 15/(+380) 482 39 37 10, www.flyuia.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.

Long-distance Buses
721 63 54, fax (+380) 48 733 56 63, www.avodessa. com. QOpen 24hrs.

Central Bus Station Kolontaivska 58, tel. (+380) 48

Trains
tel. (+380) 48 725 14 18. Odesas rail station is the end of the line. Fortunately for you, youre already in centre. As you proceed to the main hall youll find the departure and arrival schedules. In the halls to the right youll find ticketing windows, a service centre and a bank with currency exchange and ATM. Theres a waiting room with comfortable, plush seating in the service centre. The entrance fee is 5Hr and additional charges vary depending on what you want to do. If you would like to use your mobile phone, for example, the charge is an additional 1.25Hr. An international information desk is also located in the service centre. To the left of the main hall youll find waiting rooms, a caf, toilets, a news stand, a currency exchange and an apartment rental service. Upstairs is another waiting room, telephones and a post office. The first aid station, police office, station administration and a secured luggage locker are all located on platform No. 1. If you need to stash your bags for a while the price for this service per day is 8Hr for small bags, 15 for large and 30 for extra large. Directions are clearly marked in English in the main hall, so if at any time you get lost proceed to the main hall for reorientation.

Airport
Odesa International Airport, tel. (+380) 482 39
35 49, www.airport.od.ua. Odesa International Airport is located approximately 10 km from centre. For domestic arrivals, the shuttle bus picks you up from the plane and dumps you by a steel gate next to the main terminal where a gauntlet of underhanded taxi drivers awaits. For international arrivals and departures and domestic departures proceed to the main terminal. There are two currency exchange booths, an ATM, airline representatives, a caf and an information booth (deserted both times we were there) in the terminals main hall. Toilets are located in the basement. Customs staff and many of the taxi drivers speak English. The airport is small and unassuming, but if you happen to get confused or lost dont hesitate to ask airport staff or one of the locals for assistance. Odesians have a tradition of service and are more open and jolly than citizens of other major ex-Soviet cities.

Odesa Holovna Train Station F-6, Pryvokzalna pl. 2,

Airline ticket offices


tel. (+380) 48 761 67 00, fax (+380) 482 49 00 78, www.austrian.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Carpatair Odesa International Airport, tel. (+380) 48 749 55 14, fax (+380) 48 749 55 13, odessa@carpatair. com, www.carpatair.com. Czech Airlines F-2, Chaikovskoho prov. 16, office 1, tel. (+380) 48 728 62 87, fax (+380) 48 731 42 17, www.czechairlines.com. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Donbassaero Odesa International Airport, tel. (+380) 48 711 71 27, www.donbass.aero. QOpen 05:00 - 15:00. EL AL Israel Airlines Odessa International Airport, tel. (+380) 482 49 19 86, fax (+380) 482 49 03 07, www. elal.co.il. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.

Austrian Airlines Odesa International Airport, 1st floor,

Odesa Holovna Train Station

Odesa In Your Pocket

odesa.inyourpocket.com

getting around
Domestic flight schedule
From Odesa Days Dep. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:30 1 2 3 4 5 11:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:15 1 2 3 4 5 15:05 Arr. 10:10 08:35 14:40 12:10 20:25 16:15 City KYIV (VV) KYIV (PS) KYIV (VV) KYIV (PS) KYIV (PS) KYIV (VV) To Odesa Days Dep. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:35 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:25 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:30 1 2 3 4 5 17:15 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:25 1 2 3 4 5 17:15 Arr. 12:45 10:30 16:40 18:25 22:35 18:25

35

International flight schedule


From Odesa Days Dep. Arr. 1 5 05:10 07:20 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:05 17:45 5 12:20 17:00 1 2 3 4 5 16:00 17:10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:55 20:25 1 2 3 4 5 6 07:00 08:35 2 5 04:30 07:00 1 3 5 7 07:50 10:55 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:40 19:50 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:00 15:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:20 17:25 1 4 6 06:00 08:35 2 4 6 07:20 10:00 1 5 18:00 20:15 2 6 16:25 19:10 3 00:35 03:10 1 2 3 5 06:45 08:25 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:00 17:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:35 16:20 2 6 21:00 23:00 City ATHENS (VV) BUDAPEST (MA) DUBAI (PS) FRANKFURT (PS) ISTANBUL (TK) ISTANBUL (VV) KALININGRAD (VV) MILAN (VV) MOSCOW - Vnukovo (VV) MOSCOW - Domodedovo (UN) PRAGUE (OK) RIGA (BT) ST-PETERSBURG (VV) TBILISI (VV) TEL AVIV (VV) TEL AVIV (ELY) TIMISOARA (V) VIENNA (PS) WARSAW (LO) YEREVAN (U8) To Odesa Days Dep. Arr. 1 5 02:10 04:20 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:55 15:25 5 18:00 23:00 1 2 3 4 7 20:45 21:55 2 4 7 16:15 17:45 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:30 11:00 2 5 23:30 01:50 +1 1 3 5 7 12:00 14:55 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:50 22:55 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 12:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:25 14:30 1 4 6 23:55 02:20 +1 2 4 6 18:10 20:45 1 5 21:15 23:35 2 6 11:55 14:50 2 20:45 23:30 1 2 4 6 15:25 17:00 6 7 11:40 13:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:05 13:55 2 6 16:45 19:00

Airline Codes: BT - Air Baltic, ELY - EL AL Airlines, LO LOT Polish Airlines, MA Malev Hungarian Airlines, OK Czech Airlines, PS Ukrainian International Airlines, TK Turkish Airlines, V Carpatair, VV AeroSvit, 7D Donbasaero, U8 Armavia, UN TransAero.

International train schedule


From Odesa City Dep. Arr. 15:04 08:21 ADLER (on even days) 22:21 21:31 (5) BAKU (2) 22:57 09:09 (1,2,3,6) BERLIN (1,3,4,5) 14:30 12:50 MINSK (on odd days) 15:04 15:16 (1-7) MOSCOW (1-7) 18:13 06:40 (2,4,6,7) PRAGUE (1,2,4,6) 18:13 09:33 (1-7) PRZEMYSL (1-7) 18:32 06:15 (7,5,3) ST.-PETERSBURG (5,1,3) 18:13 20:20 (1-7) WARSAW (1-7) To Odesa Dep. Arr. 14:36 05:13 (on even days) 23:20 06:39 15:07 05:41 11:31 10:27 (on even days) 21:20 19:09 21:42 13:31 19:17 13:31 23:55 10:18 06:55 13:31

Domestic train schedule


From Odesa To Odesa City Dep. Arr. Dep. Arr. 19:10 13:04 20:52 10:27 CHERNIHIV (on odd days) (on even days) 15:34 09:12 13:55 08:59 CHERNIVTSI (on odd days) (on even days) 22:21 09:20 (1-7) DNIPROPETROVSK (1-7) 19:30 06:39 14:47 07:50 16:57 09:17 DONETSK (on even days) (on odd days) 15:35 7:40 17:00 08:59 IVANO-FRANKIVSK (on even days) (on odd days) 18:51 08:50 (1-7) KHARKIV (1-7) 18:08 08:19 14:09 21:19 (1-7) KHERSON (1-7) 22:24 05:03 15:35 23:25 (1-7) KHMELNYTSKIY (1-7) 06:01 13:31 23:19 08:32 (1-7) KYIV (1-7) 22:59 08:50 19:10 06:46 (1-7) KYIV (1-7) 18:21 05:41 22:57 07:38 (1-7) KYIV (1-7) 21:54 06:10 19:00 07:10 (1-7) LVIV (1-7) 19:43 07:50 14:47 11:33 12:40 09:17 LUHANSK (on odd days) (on even days) 14:09 19:55 (1-7) MYKOLAIV (1-7) 23:37 05:03 19:31 07:25 (1-7) SIMFEROPOL (1-7) 19:25 08:10 18:13 13:16 (1-7) UZHHOROD (1-7) 18:05 13:31 14:09 07:20 (1-7) ZAPORIZHYA (1-7) 12:50 05:03

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May - July 2011

36

mail & phones


Postal delivery in Ukraine is generally reliable, but every so often a letter or package will go missing and never arrive at its intended destination. The post office remains a throwback to Soviet times with its redundant and confusing bureaucratic order. When sending or picking up a package or letter be patient and try not to be too intimidated by the burly woman shouting incomprehensible orders at you.

The Odesa telephone code is +380 48 or (482)

Using a telephone
Fixed line telephone
To call a number inside Kyiv just dial the number. To make a long-distance telephone call, dial 0, wait for the dial tone and then dial the city code and number. To call Kyiv from another town, dial 0, wait for the tone, dial Lvivs city code (32) and then the number. To make an international call, dial 0, wait for the tone, and then dial 0 plus the country code, city code and number itself. Ukrainian city codes Cherkasy 47 Kirovohrad 52 Rivne 36 Chernihiv 46 Kyiv 44 Sevastopol 69 Chernivtsi 37 Kyiv Region 45 Simferopol 65 Dnipropetrovsk 56 Luhansk 64 Sumy 54 Donetsk 62 Lutsk 33 Ternopil 35 Ivano-Frankivsk 34 Lviv 32 Uzhhorod 31 Kharkiv 57 Mykolaiv 51 Vinnitsa 43 Kherson 55 Odesa 48 Zaporizhya 61 Khmelnytsky 38 Poltava 53 Zhytoymyr 41 The above Ukrainian city codes should be prefixed with an 0 if dialing from another Ukrainian town. International country codes Australia 61 Germany 49 Poland 48 Austria 43 Greece 30 Romania 40 Belgium 32 Hungary 36 Russia 7 Bulgaria 359 Ireland 353 Spain 34 Canada 1 Israel 972 Sweden 46 Czech Rep. 420 Italy 39 Turkey 90 Denmark 45 Japan 81 Ukraine 380 Finland 358 Moldova 373 UK 44 France 33 Netherlands 31 USA 1 The above International country codes should be prefixed with 0-0 if dialing from inside Ukraine.

Express mail
DHL G-3, Hretska 22, tel. (+380) 48 711 79 43, www.
dhl.com.ua. Service points: vul. Rishelievska 59, Chorne More Hotel, tel. (+380) 482 30 01 11; Hretska pl. 3/4, tel. (+380) 48 734 43 05. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.

TNT Aeroportivska 25, tel. (+380) 482 35 80 10/ 35 80 20, www.tnt.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. UPS F-4, Onilovoyi prov. 16, tel. (+380) 482 32 19 67/ 48 777 07 17, www.ups.com. QOpen 09:00: - 18:00.

Mail
Central Post Office E-2, Sadova 10, tel. (+380) 48 726 65 40, www.ukrposhta.com. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,
Sun 10:00 - 15:00.

Public internet access


Angar 18 F-5, Velyka Arnautska 52, tel. (+380) 482 34 36 46. QOpen 24hrs. 6Hr per hour.
482 37 71 97. 4Hr per hour, scanning and printing services. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.

Submarine E-4, Preobrazhenska 49/51, tel. (+380) VIP net E-2, Sadova 14, tel. (+380) 48 728 02 94. QOpen 24hrs. 5Hr per hour.

Mobile phones
There are two types of mobile phone numbers in Odesa direct numbers (which do not differ from the Odesa fixed line numbers, and may be dialled as such) and mobile numbers (these should be preceded by 0 and the operators code). SMS may not be sent to direct numbers. Mobile phone calls in Ukraine are relatively cheap and very reliable. You do not need to sign a contract or show your documents to use the local providers service. SIM cards are available in special service centres, mobile phone stores and even on the streets. You can also buy cards to refill your account at these same locations. Beeline H-6, Italiiskyi bulv. 8, tel. (+380) 48 714 85 03, www.beeline.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Intertelecom F-5, Mala Arnautska 70, tel. (+380) 48 743 11 21, www.intertelecom.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. KyivStar GSM G-2, Lanzheronivska 3, tel. (+380) 48 777 07 77, www.kyivstar.net. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Life F-5, Hretska 33, tel. (+380) 482 33 29 15, www. life.com.ua. Also at vul. Velyka Arnautska 63, tel. 49 62 32. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. MTS F-3, Bazarna 60/61, tel. (+380) 482 34 37 02, www.mts.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Utel F-3, Katerynynska 37, tel. (+380) 48 786 99 11, www.utel.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Roaming
To call a fixed telephone in Ukraine dial 380 followed by the city code and phone number. While calling a mobile phone, use the operators code instead of a city code.

Laptop login
Wi-Fi There are now a number of places in Kyiv which provide Wi-Fi connections to the Internet both for mobile telephones, PDAs with web browsers and laptops with Wi-Fi support. Look for the W symbol in our guide. The service is usually free at hotels and restaurants, but in some venues the connection costs around 10Hr per hour. 3G & 4G There are an increasing number of companies in Ukraine offering 3G & 4G service. You need to have a compatible telephone or modem to connect to the Internet. SIM-cards can be found at any one of the service centres of companies mentioned in Mobile phones section above. The same service centres can also refill your account and help with setting up a connection to the Internet.

Odesa In Your Pocket

odesa.inyourpocket.com

shopping

37

odesa.inyourpocket.com

May - July 2011

38

shopping
21:00.

Naf Naf F-2, Deribasivska 21 (Europe Trade Centre), 2nd floor, tel. (+380) 482 37 93 42. QOpen 10:00 Pierre Cardin F-2, Deribasivska 21 (Europe Trade Centre), tel. (+380) 48 728 51 85. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Polo Garage F-2, Katerynynska 14, tel. (+380) 482 32 92 15. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Soho F-3, Katerynynska 35, tel. (+380) 48 711 74 66. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. AL Tommy Hilfiger F-3, Katerynynska 20, tel. (+380) 48 734 30 39. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.

Flowers
7 Roses G-5, Deribasivska 12, tel. (+380) 48 741 17 18, www.7roses.com. Internet flower shop. QOpen
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Artishok G-5, Pushkinska 57, tel. (+380) 48 728 64 02. QOpen 10:00 - 18:30. Flower gallery E-3, Preobrazhenska 25, tel. (+380) 48 729 48 58. QOpen 24hrs.

Gifts and Souvenirs


Mozaika G-5, Pushkinska 62, tel. (+380) 48 722 27 90. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Souvenirs G-2, Pushkinska 1, tel. (+380) 482 42 93 84. QOpen 9.00 - 18.00.

Perfume & Beauty Antiques


Anna F-2, Katerynynska 8/10, tel. (+380) 48 722 22 47. QOpen 11:00 - 15:00. Collection E-3, Preobrazhenska 37, tel. (+380) 48 726 69 74/(+380) 482 39 98 61. QOpen 11:00 - 15:00. Collectioner F-5, Velyka Arnautska 57, tel. (+380) 48 715 58 27. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Hobbi E-5, Panteleimonivska 126A, tel. (+380) 48 714 48 38. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Brocard F-3, Deribasivska 21, tel. (+380) 48 728 51 90. Also at Hretska 26/28, tel. (+380) 48 722 14 73. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A Jan G-3, Hretska 23, tel. (+380) 482 37 70 10. Also at Hretska 3/4, Athena Gallery, 1st floor, tel. (+380) 48 738 44 24. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00.

Photography
City Digital Centre F-2, Vitse-Admirala Zhukova prov. 3/7, tel. (+380) 48 777 11 85. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Paparazzi E-3, Novoselskoho 72, tel. (+380) 48 726 28 25. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Podorozhnik F-4, Rishelievska 33, tel. (+380) 482 32 02 46. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

Books
Book Superstore F-3, Bunina 33, tel. (+380) 482 32 17 97. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Bukva F-2, Deribasivska 14, tel. (+380) 482 35 84 04/ (+380) 482 35 84 05. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Lotos Mira F-3, Deribasivska 18, tel. (+380) 482 37 27 65. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Shopping Centres
Athena Gallery G-3, Hretska 3/4, tel. (+380) 48 738 44 00. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Europe F-2, Deribasivska 21, tel. (+380) 48 728 19 29. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Novyi Pryvoz F-5, Panteleimonivska 25, tel. (+380) 48 777 64 78. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Sady Pobedy 10th Kvitnia pl. (10th April sq,), tel.
(+380) 482 36 39 00/(+380) 48 785 85 85, www. sadypobedy.od.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Seredniofontanskyi G-7, Semafornyi prov. 4, tel. (+380) 48 722 49 28, www.city-mall.com.ua/eng. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. TsUM G-7, Pushkinska 72, tel. (+380) 48 725 71 46. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

Fashion
Canali F-3, Katerynynska 24, tel. (+380) 48 722 05 14. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. AL Castro F-3, Hretska 25, tel. (+380) 48 728 14 44. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Egoiste F-3, Katerynynska 24, tel. (+380) 48 722 42 35/(+380) 48 722 48 07. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. AL Elyzium F-4, Troitska 32, tel. (+380) 48 715 51 23. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. AL La Banque F-3, Katerynynska 22, tel. (+380) 48 715 50 25. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. AL Odesa In Your Pocket

odesa.inyourpocket.com

direCtory
Accounts & Consulting
I n t e r c o n s u l t 1 0 Kv i t n i a pl. 1, off ice 7, tel. (+380) 48 798 74 95, fax +38 048 748 04 92, interconsult@inbox.ru. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30.

39

SUPER SPEED

MEMORY READING
Results of intellectual trainings: Development of different types of memory: figurative, hearing, visual Development of attention, concentration abilities Development of nonstandard, creative thinking Increase of the reading speed in 210 times Effective work with big amounts of information and high quality of memorising Learn how to use 100 % of your brain Mini groups forming +38 063 401 17 64

European Business Association H-5, Velyka

Arnautska 15, office 154, tel./fax (+380) 48 738 68 37, www.eba.com.ua.

Informall E-2, Preobrazhenska 34, office 426, tel./fax (+380) 48 728 55 22, www.informall.biz. Triada F-3, Vitze-Admirala Zhukova 3-7, office 12, tel.
(+380) 48 728 74 18, www.auditor.od.ua.

Officials
City Council G-2, Dumska pl. 1, tel. (+380) 482
35 60 61.

Vidanta E-3, Soborna pl. 6, office 2, tel./fax (+380) 48 726 89 12, tel. (+380) 48 726 64 15, www.vidanta.net.

Ministry of Foreign Affairs H-6, Vidradna 3, tel.


(+380) 48 729 68 48, fax (+380) 48 725 86 37.

Banks
OTP Bank G-3, Bunina 10, tel. (+380) 482 30 53 50, www.otpbank.com.ua/enb. Raiffeisen Bank Aval G-5, Velyka Arnautska 20, tel. Swedbank F-5, Mala Arnautska 71, tel. (+380) 48 777
88 93, www.swedbank.ua. (+380) 482 39 20 00, fax (+380) 482 39 20 60, www. aval.ua.

Latvia F-4, Uspenska 75, office 4, tel. (+380) 482 49 53 33.


38 96.

Moldova Posmitnoho 2, tel. (+380) 482 33 33 94/33 Poland H-4, Uspenska 2/1, tel. (+380) 48 729 44
13/729 39 36, fax (+380) 48 717 71 33.

UniCredit Semafornyi prov. 4, tel. (+380) 8 800 508


00 50, www.unicredit.com.ua.

24/724 05 32.

Romania G-5, Bazarna 31, tel. (+380) 48 724 23

Russia Gagarynske Plato 14, tel. (+380) 48 784 15 44, fax (+380) 48 784 15 46. Turkey I-4, Lidersovskyi bulv. 3, tel. (+380) 48 722 79 11, fax (+380) 48 722 14 78.

Lawyers
19 06/725 58 97, fax (+380) 48 777 96 95, office@ comersant.com.ua, www.comersant.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.

Comersant Nechyporenka 12, tel. (+380) 48 722

Translators
ABCD Group F-2, Lanzheronivska 19, tel. (+380) 482 37 70 35, abcd_group@mail.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. LBV F-2, Lanzheronivska 28, tel. (+380) 48 743 47 91, fax (+380) 48 726 64 13, www.translators.od.ua/ en. Also at Zhukovskoho 36, tel./fax (+380) 48 722 93 68. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.

International Law Offices I-5, Observatornyi prov.

2/4, office 57, tel. (+380) 48 715 58 55, fax (+380) 482 49 69 25, www.murs.com.ua/en. office 109, tel. (+380) 48 730 52 80/730 53 70, advo@ te.net.ua, www.advokats.com.ua/eng.

Zharikov & Sinichenko H-5, Velyka Arnautska 2A,

Foreign representatives
65 58, fax (+380) 48 746 65 48.

International Schools
Odesa International School 10 Aprelya pl., office 54-56, tel. (+380) 48 719 07 70, www.ois.com.ua.

Bulgaria Posmitnoho 9, tel. (+380) 48 746 65 54/ 746

China tel. (+380) 48 787 17 89/787 18 98, fax (+380) 48 737 30 31.
fax (+380) 48 726 10 45.

24-hour pharmacies
AKS F-5, Panteleimonivska 70, tel. (+380) 482 49
67 41.

Georgia H-6, Mariinska 4, tel. (+380) 48 726 47 27, Germany F-2, Lanzheronivska 9, tel. (+380) 777 89 03. Greece E-2, Preobrazhenska 32, tel. (+380) 48 786 Italy F-2, Katerynynska pl. 3, tel./fax (+380) 482 37
69 80, tel. (+380) 48 728 71 33.

Apteka Gaievskoho E-2, Sadova 21, tel. (+380) 48


722 24 08, www.aptekagaevskogo.od.ua.

05 70/(+380) 48 786 05 03, fax (+380) 48 746 05 71.

Avitsena E-2, Pastera 50, tel. (+380) 48 777 74 86. Help E-4, Preobrazhenska 72, tel. (+380) 48 728 21 77.

Private clinics
Oxford Medical G-3, Polska 12, tel. (+380) 48 725 55 00/784 01 04, www.oxford-med.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. May - July 2011

19 19/482 34 56 64.

Kazakhstan Rozkydailivska 13, tel. (+380) 48 731

odesa.inyourpocket.com

40

direCtory
V.I.P. Centre E-4, Tyraspolska 16, office 27, tel. (+380) 48 725 50 91/48 726 18 00.

Billiards
Odin G-3, Polska 12, tel. (+380) 48 777 74 70, www. odin.com.ua. QOpen 24hrs. 50Hr per hour. Pyramid F-3, Oleksandrivskyi prosp. 10, tel. (+380) 482 34 48 18. QOpen 24hrs.

Beauty salons & Hairdressers


Art-8 F-2, Maiakovskoho prov. 8, tel. (+380) 48 723 23 29. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Aspazia E-2, Koblevska 45, tel. (+380) 482 42 92 91/ (+380) 482 35 92 04, www.aspazia.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. PUL Classico F-4, Zhukovskoho 8, tel. (+380) 48 777 25 00. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.

Bowling
7 zirok (7 stars) G-3, Polskyi Uzviz 15, tel. (+380) 482 37 15 15, www.club-yo.od.ua. QOpen 24hrs. 120180Hr per hour. A

Formula G-2, Chaikovskoho prov. 12, tel. (+380) 48 728 99 20/728 99 22, www.formula-wellness.com. QOpen

Mexico Akademika Hlushka 16, tel. (+380) 48 746 25 39. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. 69-150Hr per hour. A

FreeZett F-1, Preobrazhenska 2, tel. (+380) 48 728 83 66. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. La Rose F-4, Katerynynska 59, tel. (+380) 48 716 57 50. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Maramax G-2, Prymorskyi bulv. 11, Londonska Hotel, tel. (+380) 48 777 88 82. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Mozart G-2, Lanzheronivska 13, tel. (+380) 482 32 22 22. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.

Diving
Poseidon G-1, Prymorska 6, See Port Passenger
Terminal, tel. (+380) 48 729 39 44, www.diveport. odessa.net.

Underwater Technologies Lab F-6, Vodoprovidna 1,


office 9, tel. (+380) 48 795 85 54.

Dry cleaners & laundries


Boellen E-1, Torhova 19, tel. (+380) 48 777 67 77. QOpen 08:30 - 19:30. Odeska G-5, Pushkinska 55, tel. (+380) 48 777 75 24. Also at Preobrazhenska 48, tel. 777 77 52; Rozkydailivska 3, tel. 777 75 26. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

The Odesa telephone code is +380 48 (482)

Fitness clubs
07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.

Formula G-2, Chaikovskoho prov. 12, tel. (+380) 48 728 99 20/728 99 22, www.formula-wellness.com. QOpen Maximus G-1, Prymorska 6, Odesa Hotel, tel. (+380) 48 777 70 90, www.maximus.com.ua. QOpen 07:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00.

24hrs. AD

Osa F-4, Palubna 9/4, tel. (+380) 482 33 66 33. QOpen

Strekoza E-4, Bazarna 63, tel. (+380) 482 34 59 95. Also at: Lidersovskyi bulv. 9A, tel. (+380) 482 32 41 01 QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A

Tennis courts
Chernomorets H-6, Vitse-Admirala Azarova 1, tel.
(+380) 48 712 30 00.

Devolanovskyi Tennis Club G-2, Mytna pl. 1, tel.


(+380) 48 729 49 88.

Laun-Tennis Frantsuzkyi bulv. 85, tel. (+380) 48 780 01 00. From 100Hr per hour. Q ALK Prestige I-7, Druhyi Lermontovskyi prov. 1, corp. 1, tel.
(+380) 48 746 03 25. Also at Zatonskoho 30, Akademika Koroliova 88.

Vodolaz E-1, Prymorska 34, tel. (+380) 482 34 47 00, www.vodolaz.com.ua.


Athena Gallery

Odesa In Your Pocket

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street register & index


Admirala Lazareva vul. E-6 Bazarna vul. E/G-4, G/H-5 Bielinskoho vul. H-4/7 Bohdana Khmelnytskoho vul. E-5 Bolharska vul. E-6 Bunina vul. E/H-3 Chaikovskoho prov. F/G-2 Chekhova prov. F-7 Chervonyi prov. F-3 Chornomorska vul. I-4/6 Dohtiarna vul. E-4 Derebasivska vul. E/G-2 Devoranivskyi Uzviz G-2/3 Druhyi Vodoprovidnyi prov. E/F-7 Dryhyi Kulykovskyi prov. G-7 Dumska pl. G-2 Dvorianska vul. E-2 Dytiacha aleya H-4 Frantsuzkyi bulv. H-6/7, I-7 Havanna vul. F-2 Henerala Vatutina vul. E-6 Himnazychna vul. G-5/6 Hoholia vul. F-1/2 Holovna aleya I-4 Hospitalnyi prov. H-6, I-7 Hretska pl. F-3 Hretska vul. E/H-3 Italiiskyi bulv. F/H-6 Kanatna vul. H-2/4, G-4/7 Kanatnyi prov. H-5 Karantynna vul. G-4 Karantynnyi Uzviz G-2/3, H-3 4 Bolgariana 20 7 Roses 38 7 zirok 40 Aleksandrovskiy 23 Alliance Franaise 10 Alpina-varenychnaya 19 Alvona 32 ABCD Group 39 AKS 39 Alexander Pushkins Museum30 Angar 18 36 Anna 38 Apteka Gaievskoho 39 Arabian Culture Centre 10 Ararat 27 Archeological Museum 30 Arkadia Plaza 12 Art-8 40 Artishok 38 Aspazia 40 Athena Gallery 38 Austrian Airlines 34 Avis 34 Avitsena 39 Ayvazovsky 15 Odesa Train Station 34 Balalaika 24 Basilic 22 Bavarian House 10 Beeline 36 Bernardazzi 23 Biscuit 24 Bize 24 Blues Bar Dykyi Z 26 Boellen 40 Book Superstore 38 Boulevard 20 Bristol 12 British Council 10 Brocard 38 Bukva 38 Bulgakov 24 Bunin 24 Caf Sophie 21 Canali 38 Captain Morgan 27 Carpatair 34 Casa Italia 22 Casa Nova 22 Castro 38 Central Bus Station 34 Central Post Office 36 Champion 27 Chas Pik 20 Chernomorets 40 Chervonyi Lobster 24 Kataieva prov. G-7 Katerynynska pl. F-2 Katerynynska vul. F-2/6 Kinna vul. E-1 Kniazivska vul. E-1 Knyzhkovyi prov. E-5 Koblevska vul. E-2 Kovalska vul. E-4 Kuibysheva vul. E/F-5 Kulykove Pole pl. G-6 Lva Tolstoho vul. E-3 Lanzheronivska vul. F/G-2 Leitenanta Shmidta vul. G-5/6 Lermontovskyi prov. H/I-5 Liapunova prov. E-1 Lidersivskyi bulv. I-4/5, H-5 Maiakovskoho prov. F-1 Mala Arnautska vul. E/H-5 Marazliievska vul. H-3/5 Mariinska vul. H-6 Morska vul. I-6 Mukachevskyi prov. H/I-6 Myasoedovska vul. E-6 Mytna pl. G-2 Nakhimova prov. H-3 Nechypurenka prov. F-3/4 Nekrasova prov. F-1 Nizhynska vul. E-3 Nova vul. H-5 Novoschipnyi Riad E/F-6 Observatornyi prov. I-4/5 Oleksandra Matrosova prov. G/H-7 Oleksandrivskyi prosp. F-3/4, E/F-5 Onilovoi prov. F-4/5 Orlykova prov. G-6 Osypova vul. G-4/5 Panteleimonivska E/G-5, G/H-6 Pastera vul. E-1/2 Pershyi Vodoprovidnyi prov. F-7 Pokrovs'kyi prov. F-3/4 Polska vul. G-3/4 Polskyi Uzviz G-2/3 Preobrazhenska vul. E-1/5 Prymorska vul. F-1 Prymorskyi bulv. F-1, G-1/2 Pryvozna vul. E/F-5 Pushkinska vul. G-2/5 Pyrohovska vul. G-6/7, H-7 Pyrohovskyi prov. H-7 Rishelievska vul. F-3/5, G-2/3 Sabaneiv Mist F-2 Sadova vul. E-2 Schepkina vul. E-1/2 Schepnyi prov. vul. E-4 Seminarska vul. G/H-7 Serednofontanska vul. F-7 Shevchenko prosp. H-7 Shtabnyi prov. G-6 Soborna pl. E-3 Sofiiska vul. E-1 Sportyvnyi prov. I-7 Spyrydonivska vul. E-3 Staroportofrankivska vul. E-5 Starosinna pl. F-6 Starosinna vul. Suvorovska aleya Torhova vul. Tretiy Vodoprovidnyi prov. Troitska vul. Tyraspolska pl. Tyraspolska vul. Udilnyi prov. Uiutna vul. Uspenska vul. Uspenskyi prov. Utosova vul. Velyka Arnautska vul. Vidradna vul. Viiskovyi Uzviz Viry Inber vul. Viry Kholodnoi pl. Vitse-Admirala Azarova vul. Vitse-Admirala Zhukova vul. Vodoprovidna vul. Volzkyi prov. Vorontsovskyi prov. Voznesenskyi prov. Vysokyi prov. Yamchytskoho prov. Yasna vul. Yelysavethradskyi prov. Yevreiska vul. Yuriia Oleshi vul. Zaslavskoho vul. Zhukovskoho vul. F-6 H/I-3 E-1 E/F-7 E/H-4 E-3 E-3/4 H/I-7 I-6 E/H-4 E-4/5 E-4 E/H-5 H-6 F-1/2 I-5 F-3 H/I-6 F-2/3 E-7, F-6 F-6/7 F-1/2 F-6/7 E-7 G-6 H-6 F-7 F/G-4 G-3 E-4/5 E/H-3

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Chorne More 15 Chorne More Pryvoz 15 Cinema City 10 City Council 39 City Digital Centre 38 City Time 24 Classico 40 Collection 38 Collectioner 38 Columbus 15 Comersant 39 Compot 19 Continental 12 Corvin 20 Czech Airlines 34 Dacha 23 Deribas 16 De Rishelie 18 Diligence 32 Diysno Dobre Pyvo 26 Deribasivska 28 Devolanovskyi Tennis Club 40 DHL 36 Dolphinarium 32 Donbassaero 34 Dykyi Z 27 Egoiste 38 Ekaterina 16 EL AL Israel Airlines 34 Elyzium 38 Europcar 34 Europe 38 European Business Association 39 Fanconi 1872 24 Fashion Caf IT 24 Filiki Etheria 31 Fine Art Museum 31 Flower gallery 38 Formula 40 Formula-1 27 Forsage 27 Frapolli 15 Frederic Koklen 15 Gallery 19 Gambrinus 26 Gapchinska Gallery 10 Glasgow 26 Golden Child Sculpture 28 Golden Duke 10 Grand Prix 25 Greek Culture Foundation 10 Hali Gali 27 Help 39 Hertz 34 Hevron 22

Jewish Culture Centre 10 House with Telamons 28 Informall 39 Interconsult 39 International Law Offices 39 Intertelecom 36 Israel Culture Centre 10 Jan 38 Jewish Culture Centre "Beit Grand" 10 Joker 27 Khutorok u Morya 19 Kaktus 38 Kiy Avia 34 Klarabara 23 Kontrabas Art-Caf 10 Kumanets 19 Kuyalnik Resort 14 La Veranda 21 Lavinia 24 Lermontovskiy 16 La Banque 38 La Rose 40 Laun-Tennis 40 LBV 39 Literature Museum 31 London 12, 21 Londonskaya 12 Lotos Mira 38 Love Caf 25 Lustdorf 20 Malev Hungrian Airlines 34 Maner 25 Maramax 40 Mario's Pizza 22 Maristrella Club 14 Maritime Art Gallery 10 Marrakesh 25 Maski 10 Maski-show 10 Maximus 40 Mexico 40 Mickey O'Neil's Irish Pub 26 Mimino 22 Ministry of Foreign Affairs 39 Mirage 18 Morskoy 14 Mozaika 38 Mozart 14, 40 MTS 36 Contemporary Art Meseum 10 Museum of Waxwork 31 Musical Drama Theatre 10 Muzkomedia 10 Naf Naf 38 Napoleon 25

Novyi Pryvoz 38 NT-Art 10 Numismatics Museum 31 Odesa Jewish Community 10 Musical Comedy Theatre 10 Russian Drama Theatre 10 Sea Port Tourist Bureau 32 Odesa International School 39 Odessa Hotel 15 Odessa Apartments 16 Odessa Executive Suites 17 Odesskiy Dvorik Residence 17 Odin 20, 40 Oktyabrskaya 16 Oniks 21 Opera and Ballet 10, 28 Osa 40 Otrada 14 Oxford Medical 39 Palladium 16, 27 Pal'ma 18 Pantera Express 27 Paparazzi 38 Paradnaya No 1 25 Passage 18, 28 Pecheskago 22 Philharmonic 10 Picknick 22 Pierre Cardin 38 Pirosmani 22 Pivnaya Bochka 26 Podorozhnik 38 Polish Airlines 34 Polo Garage 38 Porto 23 Poseidon 40 Potomkinski Skhody 32 Prestige 40 Prime Excursion Bureau 32 Prominada 16 Pulcinella 22 Puzata Khata 22 Pyramid 40 Raiffeisen Bank Aval 39 Regional History Museum 31 Renanisance Suites Odessa 17 Ribon'ka 24 Rodina 10 Rozmarin 22 Sady Pobedy 38 Sakhar 25 Salieri Art Caf 10 Sea Terminal 28 Seredniofontans'kyi 38 Shalanda 18 Shef Caf 23

Sherlock 25 Shyko 25 Siesta Dali 25 Simge 25 Sixt 34 Skipper Pub 26 Slavyanka Tours 32 Soho 38 Steakhouse: Meat and Wine 23 Submarine 36 Swedbank 39 Tequila House 21 Tavrey Airlines 34 Teschin Mist 30 The Central Synagogue 30 The City Garden 28 TNT 36 Tokyo House 19 Tommy Hilfiger 38 Triada 39 Trium Tavern-Club 21 Tsentralnyi 17 Tsyplenok Tabaka 19 Turkey 39 Turkish Airlines 34 Tvorchestvo 10 Ukraine International Airlines 34 Ukrains'ka Lasunka 19 Underwater Technologies Lab 40 UniCredit 39 UPS 36 Utel 36 Vernisage 10 Veselyi Roger 26 Viazhevskij 21 Villa Venezia 15 V.I.P Centre . 40 Vidanta 39 VIP net 36 Vodolaz 40 Vorontsovskyi Palace 30 Voyage 22 VRC 34 Wasser Maltz Biergarten 21, 27 Western and Eastern Art Museum 31 White Moon 10 Yakitoriya 19 YO Club 27 Yokohama 20 Yunost 17 Zara Pizzara 23 Zazhygalka 27 Zharikov & Sinichenko 39 Zharu-Paru 22

May - July 2011