A Detailed History of Genever

Belgiums National Liquor Comes to

Vronique Beittel & Elizabeth Bober

A Detailed History of Genever. Belgiums National Liquor Comes to Life

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Early History
Genever is the national spirit of Belgium and the Netherlands. As with any cultural food and drink, its true history is intricately tied to the soil and water from which it grew. Genever began its life in what is known as the Low Countries (in Dutch de Lage Landen). These are lands around the low-lying delta of three key rivers carved in Northern Europe: the Rhine, the Schelde, and the Meuse. Today, these rivers wind around modern day Belgium, the Netherlands, Luxemburg, and parts of France and Germany.

GENEVER AQUA VITAE OR WATER OF LIFE

Unlike wine and beer, recreationally imbibed in Europe, distilled drinks were the tools of healers and made primarily for medicinal purposes. Genever owed much of its healing properties to the use of juniper berries, which were featured in a number of remedies at the time. For example, bathing in rainwater in which juniper berries were cooked, was recommended to cure skin and intestinal disorders. The smoke of burning juniper berries and wood was used to disinfect areas housing plague victims. The first written reference to Genever was by Jacob van Maerlant in his a twelve-part encyclopedia, Der Naturen Bloeme. The tome, focusing on European flora and fauna, was written in rhyme and published in Damme, Belgium between 1266 and 1269. In his publication, van Maerlant described a good remedy for abdominal cramps featuring wine boiled with juniper berries. Van Maerlant was the first to note the combination of juniper berries with wine and can be credited for recording Genevers first known ancestor. Despite its powers, this healing concoction didnt appear in written records again for another 300 years. In 1552, Philippus Hermanni, a physician in Antwerp, Belgium penned Een Constelijck Distileerboec, a book on distilling including the preparation method of juniper berry water or Genever aqua vitae. In this method, juniper berries were crushed, sprinkled with wine and then distilled. According to Philippus the juniper berry water can be consumed for digestive disorders, colds, the plague and bites of venomous animals. Philippus also referred to the result of the distillation process, which including heating the mixture to separate the elements, as the spirits. It is the first time in Dutch literature that alcoholic vapors are called spirits. The book was such a best-seller that it was reprinted several times. It was considered the manual for distillers for many years, contributing to the explosive growth of the malt spirit industry in the Low Countries.

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Around the same time, the rising popularity of brandy, distilled at the time from grapes and juniper berries, was met with the loss of vineyards due to consecutive bad harvests and a cold wave felt around 1540. As grapes grew scarce, wine grew more expensive. Distillers are both artists and businessmen; they knew they needed to find less expensive ingredients to make their popular drink affordable to produce and affordable for consumers to purchase. So they created other combinations for brandy including beer and eventually, the malt beverage that makes the basis of Genever. The moment juniper began to flavor a malt beverage for the first time is one of historys great unknowns. One controversial theory credits Dr. Sylvius de Bouve, a medical doctor and professor at the University of Leyden (also spelled Leiden) in the Netherlands. According to legend the professor first manufactured Genever while researching a cure for stomach and kidney disorders. By 1595 he was selling his product. Curiously, just as word of this phenomenal new medicine spread throughout Leyden and the surrounding countryside, the population experienced a surge in kidney and stomach disorders. Demand was so high that Dr. Sylvius found it difficult to keep his medicine in stock. He needed to produce Genever in larger quantities at a faster pace. Historians surmise that Dr. Sylvius struck an agreement with local distillers to help bring his drink to the masses. A new industry distilled drinks for recreational use was born.

17TH CENTURY
DISTILLING BAN IN BELGIUM
In the early 17th century, the population of the Southern Low Countries (comprising most of modern Belgium) suffered its own version of Prohibition. And like American Prohibition, it resulted in a domino reaction, the impact of which can still be seen today. In 1601, the Archduke Albrecht and the Archduchess Isabella had growing concerns about the amount of grain being used for distilling alcohol. Worried about a national food shortage, they issued a ban on the production and sale of brandy made from grain and fruit. In response, some distillers toiled on illegally but most packed their pots and fled the country for more welcoming governments. Belgiums loss was its neighbors gain: Even today one may find Flemish distillers in the Netherlands, France and Berlin where former Belgians established grain distilleries (much to the dismay of local distillers).
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The distilling ban and distiller migration created a demand for Genever in the market, which was quickly filled by port cities such as Hasselt and Schiedam. These Northern Low Country communities lay outside Archduke Albrechts territory and thus escaped the distillery ban. Benefiting from the explosion of grain supply, malt spirit production soared. The reputation holds true even today: Schiedam is the modern-day Genever capital of the Netherlands and todays Hasselt is the Genever capital of Belgium.

18TH CENTURY
DISTILLING BAN IS LIFTED IN BELGIUM; Farmers become home distillers
The ban on distilling with grain came to a swift end with the introduction of the Habsburger family into power (1713-1794) and encouraged distillers to get back to work. But Belgian leadership had its eye on benefits beyond a stiff medicinal drink or two. A by-product of Genever production was draff, a residue leftover after the first distillation of the yeasted grain mash. Rich in proteins and cellulose, draff was a nutritious feed for cattle and pigs, keeping them healthy enough to survive harsh northern European winters. Closing the ecological circle, farmers used the manure from the animals to fertilize the agricultural fields for the corn crop. Corn is a key raw ingredient for Genever, allowing the entire process to begin again. During this time, a home distillery on family farms is commonplace.

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19TH CENTURY
GENEVER PRODUCTION REACHES UNPRECENTED HEIGHTS IN BELGIUM
Genever production in Belgium soared in the 19th century, benefiting from the industrial revolution. Innovative distillers utilized steam generators and engines. These new inventions, paired with the distillation column developed by Cellier-Blumenthal, enabled distillers to create a continuous distillation process. As a result, Genever yield exploded. Fueled by these new efficiencies and a wartime austerity measure that limited barley consumption, new styles of Genever started to emerge. A distinction developed between Oude (Old) and Jonge (Young) styles of Genever. These names relate to traditional (Oude) and modern (Jonge) production methods, not the age of the alcohol in the barrel. Both are blends of different types of spirits. The Oude style is malty and sweet, and contains a high proportion of korenwijn (maltwine), cut with neutral grain or another alcohol. The Jonge style is lighter and drier, with a higher proportion of neutral alcohol and a lower proportion of korenwijn. New inventions, new flavors, and easy access to high yields of inexpensive raw materials like sugar beets, sugar beet molasses, potatoes, and corn created the perfect storm for Genever production. High levels of production led to lower prices. These low prices allowed Belgians to incorporate a drink of Genever into their daily life: In the second half of the 19th century no less than 9.5 litres of Genever (at 50% alcohol by volume) were drunk per capita and per year in Belgium!

THE ORIGINAL DUTCH COURAGE AND MODERN DAY GIN

Recognizing a good product, the Dutch integrated Genever into their vast trading industry from the 17th 19th centuries. Barrels of Genever sailed across the seas to trading partners in all corners of the globe, from the Americas to West Africa to Argentina, which remains one of the highest consumers of Genever outside of Europe. Genever not only contributed to drinking palates across the globe it also created a slang term still in use today. In many European wars, the British would notice that before a battle, the Dutch soldiers could be seen taking sips from small bottles they kept hanging from their belts. After these little nips, the Dutch soldiers fought valiantly, passionately, and without fear. The English began to call this battle elixir Dutch courage. The British soldiers took note. Genever traveled from the battlefield to England where it rose to popularity among the masses. By 1690 the people of London consumed 500,000 gallons of Genever annually. The recent arrival of the Dutch king, William of Orange, to the British throne in 1689 sped the process considerably. The new king banned the importation of French brandy and raised the customs levies on German wine and spirits, ensuring that most of the distilled spirits sold in England were made by the Dutch.
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However, two important changes began to occur. Enterprising English distillers sought to produce their own version of Genever but they struggled with the recipe. The rich, whisky-like malt wine was a challenge for the inexperienced distillers around London. With Genever know-how and expertise tucked away in Belgium and The Netherlands, the distillers had to improvise. So English-produced Genever eliminated the traditional malt wine and mixed raw grain alcohol with botanicals. At the same time, English locals, finding Genever too cumbersome a name to pronounce, gave their new favorite liquor a shortened nickname. The juniper flavor British drinkers associated with this new drink also aligned with its shortened nickname: gin. Genevers popularity remained strong in the U.S. In the early 19th century, the export of Genever to the U.S. was six times bigger than that of Gin. Many of todays classic Gin cocktails were originally made with Genever. However, today it is the English who export their gin around the world while Genever remains in Belgium and the Netherlands.

Gin edged out Genever in the hearts and livers of American consumers thanks in part to the introduction of American Prohibition which lasted from 1919 to 1933. During Prohibition the sale, manufacture, and transportation of alcohol were banned across the country. While Prohibition was successful in reducing the amount of liquor consumed, it ignited the growth of rampant underground, organized, and widespread criminal activity. In short, bootleggers got to work on homemade alcohol. Gin, compared to Genever and other spirits, was relatively easy to make by mixing raw alcohol with juniper berry extract and other flavorings and spices in a large container such as a bathtub (coining the term bathtub gin.) These Gins were generally of poor quality and taste, a fact that gave rise to the popularity of cocktails in which the mixers served to disguise amateur distilling. The repeal of Prohibition at the end of 1933 ended the production of bootleg gin, but the damage to Genevers popularity was already done. Gin had officially replaced Genever as a key player in the American beverage scene.

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20TH CENTURY
BELGIAN AGRICULTURAL DISTILLERIES DISAPPEAR
The competition from cheap industrial alcohol was a serious blow to farm-based Genever distillers, whose production was part of a larger cycle of corn and livestock growth. Faced with competition from industrial producers of cheap Genever, many distillers cloaked themselves in the argument for quality. They maintained that Genever should be produced according the vieux systme, which means on a basis of grain and seasons. Unfortunately the industrial competition was too strong. Most agricultural distilleries only survived thanks to the sale of cattle and stable manure and eventually had to close their doors. A second blow came to Genever in 1919, when the Vandervelde law was issued. The law was enacted as an answer to excessive liquor consumption, which prohibited the serving of distilled spirits in public places and only permitted the sale of hard liquor on the condition that two liters were bought at a time. This was a prohibitive and costly amount for the average Belgian worker of the day. The consumption of Genever, once the most popular spirit of Belgium, had officially begun its slow decline. To top it off, the World Wars made life difficult for all aspects of Europe, including Belgian Genever production. Invading German armies stripped Genever distilleries of copper stills and piping to use the metal for shell casings. This nearly ground traditional Genever production to a halt, almost ending a national tradition.

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21ST CENTURY
EUROPEAN RECOGNITION
Traditional Genever production is now on the rise. Fueled by national pride and a renewed passion for regional products, Genever is enjoying a revival. Recognized for its historic and cultural contribution to Europe, Genever received a special European Union seal of appellation dorigine contrle on January 15, 2008. Translated to controlled designation of origin this is meant as a protection for specific foods and liquors produced in Europe. It was also bestowed on French cognac and Scottish whisky. This EU designation regulates that only Genever distilled in traditional regions of Europe namely Belgium and the Netherlands along with specific regions of France and Germany may bear the name Genever. Regulation (EC) No. 110/2008 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 15 January 2008 on the definition, description, presentation, labeling, and the protection of geographical indications of spirit drinks, is the official document in which the full regulation is detailed. Jonge Genever, often fruit or cream infused, has a passionate following of consumers. Belgium has entire bars, tours, celebrations, and museums devoted to their national spirit. Genever is now the second most consumed spirit in Belgium. Traditional Genever production is back in the hands of the agricultural distillers. Most are family-run operations who rarely export their craft. It remains one of the best-kept secrets of the liquor industry.

Copyright 2011 by Flemish Lion LLC. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication may be made without written permission. For information email: info@FlemishLion.com

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