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ca div of HydroGenX Corporation All

Rights Reserved
Table of Contents
...................................................................................................................1
H2X Assembly Instructions
for AL 20 Do-It-Yourself Version...........................................................5
Tools Required for Assembly................................................................7
Tools Required for Drilling and Tapping...............................................7
Required Supplies..................................................................................7
Assembly instructions...........................................................................8
Plate Assembly................................................................................11
Bubbler Assembly..................................................................................18
Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer Device.........................................21
EFIE Explanation................................................................................21
EFIE Installation Instructions..............................................................21
1. Locate the oxygen sensor signal wire..........................................22
2. Locate 12 volt power and ground................................................24
3. Mount the EFIE...........................................................................24
4. Attach the wires...........................................................................25
5. Adjusting the EFIE......................................................................26
H2X Installation Instructions ..............................................................30
Step 1 – Mount the unit.......................................................................30
Step 2 - Wiring.....................................................................................30
How does the relay work?...............................................................30
Step 3 – Cleaning the unit...................................................................33
Step 4 – Connecting the gas line.........................................................33
Step 5 – Add the Electrolyte mixture..................................................33
Step 6 – Startup...................................................................................34
Step 7 – Maintenance..........................................................................35
Additional Information ........................................................................36
Winter Operation.................................................................................36
Larger alternator..................................................................................37
Potassium Hydroxide ..........................................................................37
Wiring diagram....................................................................................38
Warranty Return Instructions...............................................................38
Mailing Address...................................................................................39
Support Contact Info...........................................................................39
Terms & Conditions
.............................................................................................................40
Savefuel.ca
Div of HydroGenX Corporation
Service Terms & Conditions.................................................................40
 H2X Assembly Instructions
for AL 20 Do-It-Yourself Version
To assemble your AL20/30, follow the instructions on the following
pages. After assembly, the unit can be installed in your vehicle following
the instructions in the second part of this guide.

Required Parts
Number Description Quantity
1 8” X 1/4” stainless steel threaded rod 2
2 Nylon finishing washer with inward taper 10
3 Nylon lock nut ¼“ 6
4 Hex nut ¼” 4
5 Stainless steel washer 12
6 Silicon washer (red colour) 2
7 Nylon 90° elbow 3
8a Lasco fill cap, female 1
8b Lasco plug, male 1
9 2 ½” Stainless steel Plate with two ½” pre- 2
drilled holes (4 plates for AL-30)
10 Rubber grommet (used in combination with part 4
#9)
11 4” pre-drilled ABS end cap, top of unit 1
12 6” ABS pipe (10” for AL-30) 1
13 4” ABS end cap, bottom of unit 1
14 Clear Nylon hose (for sight gauge) 1

Bubbler (parts not shown)

Number Quantity
1 7” ABS pipe 1
2 1 ½” ABS end cap, bottom of unit 1
3 1 ½” pre-drilled ABS end cap, top of unit 1
4 Nylon 90° elbow 2
5 Fill cap with o-ring 1
6 Clear nylon hose (for filter hose) 1
7 ½” clamp 1
The above parts are included in your kit.
Please contact support at www.savefeul.ca/support ASAP if anything is
missing.
Tools Required for Assembly
1. 11mm wrench

2. Small vise grip

3. 250mm adjustable wrench (for use with Lasco fill cap)

Tools Required for Drilling and Tapping

1. Electric drill
2. 1-1/4” and 1-1” drill bit
3. 1-1/4” and 1-1” NPT tap set
4. Tape measure
5. Hack saw

Required Supplies
1. ABS Cement

2. ABS cleaner

3. Teflon Tape

4. Plumbing contact adhesive and sealant

5. Work gloves

6. Sand paper
Assembly instructions
1. Thread #3 nylon lock nut 11/8 “
down from top of #1 Stainless
Steel threaded rod.

2.Apply Teflon tape, following

direction of thread (if you are
right handed, you’d have #1
Stainless Steel threaded rod in
your right hand, and then wind
the Teflon tape on in a clockwise
direction).

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 with second Stainless Steel

threaded rod, #1.

4.Place nylon finishing washer

#2 , taper facing #3 nylon lock
nut, unto both Stainless Steel
rods.

5. With sand paper rough

inside wall of #11 pre-
drilled ABS end cap and
#13 ABS end cap.
 6. With sand paper rough
outside top and bottom 1 “
of #12 ABS pipe.

7. Apply ABS cleaner to all

sanded surfaces.

8. Thread both Stainless Steel

threaded rods into ¼ / 20” pre-
drilled threaded holes into #11
pre-drilled ABS end cap. Ensure
washer is flush with #11 using a wrench.

9. Apply #6 silicon washer onto

each Stainless Steel threaded
rod protruding from top
(outside)
of #11
pre-drilled ABS end cap.
10.Apply #5 Stainless Steel washer onto each silicon
washer on Stainless Steel threaded rod.

11.Apply #3 nylon lock nut

on top of each Stainless
Steel washer.

12.Using vise grip, lock onto

Stainless Steel threaded
rod (below top of cap, this prevents slipping) and use
wrench to tighten down #3 nylon lock nut so that all
washers are flush to cap. Do not over-tighten – #6
silicon washer will be squished out flat past #5 stainless
steel washer if you have over tightened #4 hex nut. Pull
back on #4 if this occurs.

13.Apply #4 hex nut onto #3 nylon

lock nut at top (outside) on both
Stainless Steel threaded rods.
Hand tighten.

14.Repeat step 9 for second

Stainless Steel threaded rod.
Plate Assembly
15.Apply #4 hex nut onto Stainless Steel threaded rod,
approximately 2” from bottom of rod (inside).

16.Apply #2 onto ONE

Stainless Steel threaded rod,
flat surface flush with #5.
For ease of instruction,
designate this Stainless
Steel threaded rod as rod A,
the second as rod B.

17.Apply #5 Stainless Steel washer onto each of #4 hex

nuts on both Stainless Steel threaded rod.

18.Apply #2 nylon finishing

washer onto one Stainless
Steel threaded rod, flat
surface flash with #5
Stainless Steel washer.
Designate this Stainless Steel threaded rod as rod A, the
second as rod B.

19.Insert #10 rubber grommet

into pre-drilled hole of #9
Stainless Steel plate.
CAUTION the Stainless Steel
plates are VERY SHARP along
the edges. We recommend the use of gloves when
handling Stainless Steel plates.
20.Repeat step 16 with each Stainless Steel plates. You
will now have a rubber grommet inserted into one hole
of each Stainless Steel plate.

21.Apply one Stainless Steel

plate onto Stainless Steel
threaded rods (inside), with
rubber grommet on same rod
A as #2 nylon washer.
Ensure that #10 rubber
grommet is cupped by #2.

22.Apply #2 nylon washer onto

Stainless Steel threaded rod
A, on same side as rubber
grommet, taper down so that
#2 cups rubber grommet.

23.Apply #5 Stainless Steel

washer to both Stainless Steel
threaded rods.
24.Apply # 2 nylon washer To other Stainless Steel
threaded rod B, flat surface towards #5 Stainless Steel
washer.

25.Apply one Stainless Steel plate onto Stainless Steel

threaded rods (inside), with rubber grommet on same
rod B as #2 nylon washer. Ensure that #10 pre-drilled
abs end cap is cupped by #2.

26.Repeat steps 18-22 until all the plates are used.

27.Apply #2 nylon washer onto Stainless Steel threaded

rod B, on same side as rubber grommet, taper down so
that #2 cups rubber grommet.

28.Apply #5 Stainless Steel washer to both Stainless Steel

threaded rods.

29.Apply #3 nylon lock nut to both Stainless Steel

threaded rods.

30.Starting with rod B, apply vise grip before plate

assembly to prevent slipping while tightening rod B.

31.Tighten #3 nylon lock nut with wrench till rod B

protrudes out of nylon lock nut (#3) 1/8”.

32.From top of plate assembly tighten #4 hex nut till

plates are snug, do not over tighten. Plates should have
a ¼ “ gap between each of them. Rod B is now
complete.
33.Apply vise to rod A before plate assembly to prevent
slipping while tightening.

34.Tighten #3 nylon lock nut with wrench till rod A

protrudes out of nylon lock nut (#3) ¼”.

35.From top of plate assembly tighten #4 hex nut till

plates are snug, do not over tighten. Plates should have
a ¼ “gap between each of them. Rod A is now
complete.

36.Plate assembly is now complete and should

resemble the picture bellow.

37.Apply one drop of plumbing adhesive into pre-drilled

threaded hole on #13 ABS end cap, for sight glass.

38.Insert #7 nylon elbow into

glued pre-drilled hole on #13
ABS end cap. Use wrench to
 tighten. Ensure tapered opening on #7 nylon elbow is
facing upwards.

39.Apply one drop of plumbing adhesive into pre-drilled

threaded hole on side of #11 pre-drilled top ABS end
cap, for sight glass.

40.I nsert #7 nylon elbow into

glued pre-drilled hole on
side of #11 pre-drilled ABS end
cap. Use wrench to tighten.
Ensure tapered opening on
#7 is facing downward

41.Apply one drop of plumbing adhesive into pre-drilled

threaded hole on top of #11 pre-drilled ABS end cap.

42.Insert #7 nylon elbow into glued pre-drilled hole on top

of #11 pre-drilled ABS end cap.
Use wrench to tighten (this will
be the outlet for the HHO gas,
please point the tapered
opening in the direction that is
best suited for your vehicle’s
engine).

43.Apply Teflon tape to #8a

lasco fill cap, following
direction of thread (if you are
right handed, you’d have #8a
 in your right hand, and then wind the Teflon tape on in a
clockwise direction).

44.Insert taped 8a Lasco fill cap

into large pre-drilled hole from top
into #11 pre drilled ABS end cap.
Tighten using adjustable wrench.

45.Insert 8b lasco plug into 8a lasco fill cap (from top of

#11). Place loosely, without force.

46.Apply ABS cement to inside sanded surface of #13 ABS

end cap. Be sure to not fill hole of # 7 nylon elbow with
glue.

47.Insert one end of #12 Abs

pipe into prepped and glued
#13 ABS end cap. When
inserting #13 into #12, use a
spinning Motion to ensure all surface is glued.

48.Apply ABS cement to inside sanded surface of #11 pre-

drilled ABS end cap. Be sure to not fill hole of # 7 nylon
elbow with glue.

49.Insert # 12 ABS pipe (which has #13 glued to the

bottom) into #11 pre-drilled ABS end cap. Be sure to
align #7 nylon elbow on both top(#11) and bottom
(#13) for sight gauge.
 50.Insert #14 clear nylon
aquarium hose into both
#7 nylon elbows on both
top (#11) pre-drilled Abs
end caps and bottom (#13)
ABS end caps for sight
gauge. Nylon hose may need to be cut to size (run ends
of nylon hose in hot water before sliding into elbows).

51. Allow at least 24 hours for glue to cure before filling

unit with water/electrolyte solution.

Bubbler Assembly
The bubbler ensures there is no possibility of electrolyte or
water vapor entering your engine. Also in the event of an
engine backfire, it protects your hydrogen generator. Your
bubbler should be filled one third full, again using distilled
water.

1. With sandpaper, rough the inside walls of 1 ½” pre-

drilled ABS end caps #2 and #3. With sandpaper, rough
the outside top and bottom of #1 7” ABS pipe.
2. Apply ABS cleaner to all sanded surfaces.
3. Apply ABS cement to inside sanded surface of #2 ABS
end cap.
4. Insert one end of #1 Abs pipe into prepared and glued
#2 ABS end cap. When inserting #1 into # 2, use a
spinning motion to ensure all surface is glued
5. Insert #4 nylon elbow into glued pre-drilled hole on top
of #3 pre-drilled ABS end cap. Use wrench to tighten
(this will be the inline for the HHO gas, please point the
tapered opening in the direction that is best suited for
your hydrogen generator).
6. Insert #4 nylon elbow into glued pre-drilled hole on top
of #3 pre-drilled ABS end cap. Use wrench to tighten
 (this will be the outlet for the HHO gas, please point the
tapered opening in the direction that is best suited for
your vehicle’s engine).
7. Insert #5 fill caps with o-ring. Hand tighten until ring is
pressed between the cap and bubbler.
8. Insert #6 nylon hose onto bottom of #4nylon elbow on
the inside of the end cap.
9. Securely Clamp on #7 ½” clamp onto the hose and end
of elbow.
10.Apply ABS cement to inside sanded surface of #3 ABS
end cap.
11.Insert one end of #1 Abs pipe into prepared and glued
#3 ABS end cap. When inserting #1 into # 3, use a
spinning motion to ensure all surface is glued
12.Allow 24 hours for glue to cure before filling unit.
Your AL Unit assembly is now complete and ready for
installation
Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer Device

EFIE Explanation

The EFIE unit is only needed for the upstream exhaust O2

sensors. The EFIE corrects your vehicle's computer's tendency
to read the oxygen rich, and hydrocarbon reduced, exhaust as
being too lean.
The EFIE adds a 'floating' voltage onto whatever amount the
O2 sensor is reading. This voltage is adjustable by you, up to a
few milivolts. Using this, your computer will be unaware of the
additional O2 content of the exhaust. For more information on
the EFIE unit, check out
www.fuelsaver-mpg.com

EFIE Installation Instructions

Install H2X Supplemental Hydrogen Generator first.

Important Note:
The EFIE is not intended to be a fuel saver by itself. You should
install your H2X Supplemental Hydrogen Generator; it gets
more power out of the same fuel by increasing the efficiency of
the burn.
1. Locate the oxygen sensor signal wire

The easy way to do this is to look it up in your Haynes, Clymer

or Chilton manual for your car. If you don't have one of these,
there is a service at www.ahdol.com where you can pay a
nominal fee, and get your wiring diagrams emailed to you. I
have also recently found a resource at www.autozone.com
whereby you can get your wiring diagram and specific service
manual information on your sensors. However, the information
is not available for all cars and trucks. To help you find your
wiring diagram at autozone.com, follow the instructions found
here. Using the wiring diagram data, you can get the wire color
of the signal wire, and hopefully gain access to it up in the
engine compartment, where it routes to the computer.

If none of these options are available, you'll need to locate the

oxygen sensor and then locate the signal wire by testing. The
sensor can have 2, 3 or 4 wires, and you have to know which
one is the signal wire. If you have 4 wires they will be:

1. Heater 12 Volts +
2. Heater ground
3. Oxygen sensor signal +
4. Oxygen sensor signal ground

If you have 2 or 3 wires, then you can have a common ground,

or no heater wires etc. The simplest setup is a single wire,
which is the signal wire and the sensor get's it's ground from
the exhaust pipe. You can use the following procedure to
narrow down which wire is which:

1. Disconnect the wire harness, turn on the ignition and

probe for a wire produces 12 volts. This will be the heater
circuit.
 2. Next find the 2 wires that produce exactly 0 volts. These
will be the heater ground and the signal ground. The remaining
wire should be your signal wire.
3. Reconnect the wiring harness, then strip a little insulation
from the signal wire and measure it to ground with the engine
running. The voltage on this wire will vary from nearly 0 to
about 1 volt. Since your meter will not be fast enough to see
the lows and highs, it will average them out to about .3 to
about .8 volts. The fluctuations will be so fast you have a hard
time reading the numbers. Note, that you have to let the
engine warm up a bit before you will get these voltages from
the sensor.
4. Cut this wire at a convenient location for connecting the
EFIE. We'll call the sensor side of this cut the sensor wire, and
the other side of the cut, the computer wire.

Note: rarely an oxygen sensor wiring harness will have more

than 4 wires. In this case, the sensor is possibly a "wide band"
oxygen sensor. The EFIE has been reported to work with 5-wire
wide band sensors.

Once you have determined which is the sensor's signal wire,

you want to get it located up close to the computer. If you used
a manual, or wiring diagram, you probably have already
located the wire at the computer's wiring harness. If you had to
figure out the wires at the sensor itself, then try to find the
same wire at the computer's wiring harness. It should be the
same colors, but test it with an ohm meter to be sure.
Sometimes they use the same colors for different things. Even
if it's a pain now, it's worth it to get the signal wire located up
by the computer. This makes cutting into it and hooking up the
EFIE much easier.

Special Note: The most common reason for installation failures

is an incorrectly located signal wire. You should test the wire
that you have located and make sure you see the phenomena
described above when the engine is running. If you don't see
these voltages, then you must debug this step before
proceeding.
2. Locate 12 volt power and ground

You need to ensure that you have switched power, not power
directly from the battery. You don't want the EFIE running 100%
of the time. It's not that the unit couldn't run 100% of the time,
it probably could. But it would slowly drain your battery.

Most of the fuel efficiency devices need switched power as

well, and you can often piggy back onto them. Note that the
EFIE draws negligible power. You can attach it to any circuit.
The best choice for a voltage source is a fuel efficiency device,
such as a Hydrogen generator. That way the EFIE only activates
when the fuel efficiency device is turned on. Note that when
power is shut off to the EFIE or the EFIE's switch is turned off,
the original connection between the oxygen sensor and the
computer is re-established. If connecting to your fuel saver's
power is inconvenient or inappropriate, just use any circuit that
is accessory key switched. Your electrical diagram can come in
handy here, and if you don't find another device to attach to,
you can usually find a spare circuit in the fuse box (you may
have to add a fuse). One installer used the oxygen sensor's
heater power for his EFIE's power, and this is perfectly
acceptable.

Ground can be the vehicle body, engine block or ground from

another device, including the ground for the oxygen sensor
itself. Just make sure that whatever you choose to use for
ground has a negligible resistance (less than 10 ohms) when
tested against the negative battery terminal of your car.

3. Mount the EFIE

You can use the mounting ears to screw down the EFIE to a
suitable location on the vehicle body or firewall. Some people
like to mount the device inside the passenger compartment of
the car. There are some considerations about where you mount
your EFIE that should also be reviewed:

1. The EFIE is not waterproof. If you mount it under the hood,

you will have to take care to cover it if you need to steam or
spray clean your engine. If this is something you regularly do,
you may want to mount the EFIE in the passenger
compartment where it will be protected.
2. If you live in a cold climate, where temperatures are
expected to be below freezing a significant number of days per
year, you will want to ensure that the EFIE is mounted where it
will be warmed, either by the engine, or inside the passenger
compartment. Below freezing temperatures cause the EFIE to
come up to its voltage offset very slowly unless it is physically
warmed. This is because it doesn't generate much heat of its
own. In most cases this can be accomplished by mounting your
EFIE in the upper rear of the engine compartment, close to the
firewall, which will allow it to benefit from trapped engine heat.
Newer EFIEs now come with jumpers that if set will cause the
EFIE to generate more heat. These were intended for use in
very cold climates. Find J1 and J2 on your circuit board. Set the
following jumpers for increasing amounts of heat: J1, J2, J1 and
J2.

4. Attach the wires

The EFIE multi-conductor wire has 6 colors: red, black, white,

green, blue and brown. Connect the red to your power source.
Connect the black to ground. Connect the green
Wire to the oxygen sensor. Connect the white wire to the
computer. For Dual EFIE units, the brown wire goes to the 2nd
oxygen sensor, and the blue wire goes to the 2nd sensor's
computer line. Hopefully you've been able to locate all these
wires up by the computer in an easily accessible location. But if
so, be sure not to cut them too close to the computer so that
you have plenty of slack to work with them.

You should solder them and use heat shrink tubing to insulate
the connections from other wires. If you don't have heat shrink,
you can use electrical tape. I personally always use heat shrink.
It's more professional looking, and less likely to unravel later
into a sticky mess.
5. Adjusting the EFIE
You will now need to adjust your EFIE.
They do not come from the factory with a particular starting
voltage preset, so you'll have to set the initial voltage. I have
found that .200 volts (200 millivolts) is a good starting point.
The controls of the EFIE are shown and further described
below:
The picture above shows a Single EFIE Deluxe, with the
controls marked. The toggle switch turns the EFIE on/off, and
the red LED glows only when the EFIE is on and has power.
Note that when the EFIE is powered off, it makes the
connection between the oxygen sensor and the computer, the
same as it was before the EFIE was installed. If you ever have
need to reconnect the oxygen sensor directly to the computer,
just turn the EFIE (or Dual EFIE) off, and this will be
accomplished. Also, if power is shut off to the EFIE, you'll get
the same result regardless of which position the switch is in.

The red and black test points will accept and hold in place the
electrodes (probes) from a multi-meter. The black point is
attached to the oxygen sensor lead, and the red point is
attached to the lead that outputs to the computer. Just push
the leads in and they will be held in place by spring loaded
clamps. With your probes in the two test points, you'll be
reading the voltage offset being supplied by the EFIE, and this
is the setup you need for EFIE adjustment.

The adjustment screw adjusts the voltage offset between the

signal from the sensor, and what the computer "sees". Turn the
screw in a clockwise direction to increase the offset, and
counter-clockwise to reduce the offset and your multimeter will
be reading the offset amount. The signal adjustment
potentiometer (or "pot" for short) is designed to turn 18-20 full
revolutions. This is so that the voltage offset can be tuned to a
fine degree of control. Adjustments can be made as small as a
few millivolts can be made.

Most computers will see 425 millivolts from the EFIE, plus the
sensor's voltage as high all the time. In other words even when
the sensor is putting out its lowest voltage, when the EFIE adds
425 millivolts, the computer will think the sensor is reading
high. The computer will think the sensor is damaged, because
it reads high all the time, and will ignore its data. If this occurs
you may or may not get a check engine light alerting you to
the "defective oxygen sensor", but for sure your gas mileage
will get very bad. So you should never operate your EFIE this
high. The exact voltage is .45 volts to the ECU. Above that
voltage is "high" and below that voltage is "low". The ECU must
see transitions from low to high several times per second or it
will "know" that the sensor is bad and then just start merrily
adding gas.

It is possible to damage the adjustment pot by turning it past

its lowest or highest values. However, I've turned them at least
10 full revolutions past the end with no ill effects. But there is a
limit to how many times you can turn them, and I have ruined
one once by turning one too far. The thing to do, is only turn
them with your multimeter hooked up. When you get down
below 50 millivolts, and further turning doesn't change the
amount, stop. And the same applies at the top end of the scale.
In actual practice you should never need to be at the extremes.

When it comes to making the actual adjustments to the EFIE

for your particular car and fuel saver combination, I
recommend starting out with 200 millivolts. The process of
adjusting the EFIE is trial and error. If you're setting the EFIE
above 350 millivolts you're starting to get pretty high. Watch
for symptoms of too lean a mix such as rough engine, lack of
power, "check engine light" coming on, etc. When these show
up, adjust it back down until the symptoms go away. Note,
some computers will accept an EFIE setting of over 400
millivolts. This is not the norm however.

A couple of adjustment tips: 1) If your "check engine" light

comes on, you've likely set the offset too high, and the
computer thinks your oxygen sensor is on the fritz. This can
also be caused by mis-wiring the EFIE, so make sure you're
hooked up correctly. 2) If you lose horsepower, you've got an
incorrect setting, as fuel efficiency devices should increase
horsepower proportionately with the increase in MPG (as well
as decrease emissions). 3) If you have a high temperature
probe, run down the highway with the fuel efficiency devices
turned off, long enough to get the engine up to full operating
temperature, and note the temp of your exhaust pipe, near the
exhaust manifold. As you increase your voltage offset, this
temperature may increase. Don't let it raise more than 180
degrees from your initial test.

You will probably find adjusting the EFIE to be difficult at first.

When you turn the adjustment screw, the voltage starts raising
(or lowering) and keeps on doing so long after you've stopped
turning the screw.

It can take up to 10 minutes for the voltage changes to settle

down completely. I have learned to set EFIEs similarly to
balancing a long stick on your finger. You have to turn the
screw farther than you expect the final position to be to get the
EFIE's voltage changing in the direction you want. Then when
the voltage gets close to your target voltage, quickly start
turning the adjustment screw the opposite way until the
voltage stops increasing. Once the voltage is at your target
value, then you just make small adjustments either way to get
the voltage to settle down. But note you'll want to check the
voltage some minutes later to make sure it hasn't continued to
drift up or down to a different value.

That's the basics. If you run into trouble on your installation,

contact us at http://www.savefuel.ca/support or call the
customer support center at 905 228 3184
H2X Installation Instructions
These instructions help you install and operate the H2X AL DIY
unit properly. Read through the installation instructions
thoroughly before beginning. The installation process for the
H2X AL DIY is separated into clear steps to help minimize
common sources of error.

Step 1 – Mount the unit

The H2X AL DIY unit needs to be mounted in the engine
compartment of the vehicle. The ideal mounting location is as far
from the engine block itself as possible, away from high heat
sources, and in an upright position. The easiest method of
mounting the unit is to use a plumbing strap (available at
hardware stores) although other techniques will accomplish the
same task. Secure the H2X AL DIY around the space in the center
of the unit and fasten in your chosen location. Make sure the H2X
AL DIY is mounted upright or it will not function properly.

Step 2 - Wiring

Note: The provided 40 Amp rated relay is must be

used to ensure the heavy amperage draw comes
directly from the battery and not your fuse panel.

Warning: The center connector on the relay is

never used as it is “ON” when the power is off.
This would cause the unit to run when the ignition
is off.

Note: before cutting any wires, find you preferred

locations for the ammeter, dash switch, relay and
run the wires to that spot.

How does the relay work?

First a quick explanation of the relay: It is used to automatically
switch the unit on and off, when ever your engine is running.
Most small manual switches will get hot if more that 8 amps
run through it for a long period of time.

It works like this. One wire, (#85) is connected to a fuse that

only comes live when the engine is switched on, power runs
from it through a coil to the ground wire (#86), this creates a
magnetic field that attracts the switch, creating a circuit. # 30
is connected to the positive terminal battery, and # 87 is
connected to the H2X Hydrogen Generator

You can add the provided switch between the fuse panel and
#85 allowing you to keep off the unit at will. (Doing a mileage
test without HHO after the unit is installed, if it is removed for
cleaning.)

After mounting the H2X AL DIY, the wiring can be installed. The
wiring process is simple if you read these instructions properly
and follow step-by-step.
You can refer to the wiring diagram included in these
instructions as you read through.

• Run a black wire from one of the electrodes on top of the

device to the negative terminal on your automobile
battery.
• To make it easier, you can remove the red wire (center,
NOT used) from the supplied relay connection block. Use
a small screwdriver, insert from the top in the small slot.
This will release the wire.
• If you wish to experiment with higher amperages, it is a
good idea to replace the wires to Yellow #30 and Blue
#87 with the supplied heavy gauge Red wire
• You now need to run a red wire to # 30 on the relay
(yellow), then from # 87, Blue (not 87A) to the battery
(Do not use the center of the relay, (87a, red wire in the
connection block)
• The relay can be installed under the hood, in moisture
proof box. If not, the positive wire from the battery (#30)
and the one coming from #87 to the unit will have to be
fed through the automobile’s firewall. Usually there are
predrilled holes in the firewall used for electrical wires.
The best solution is to use one of these existing firewall
holes. If you cannot find a suitable hole in the firewall,
you will have to drill a quarter-inch hole in the firewall
and install a rubber grommet in that hole to protect the
wire. Be very careful when drilling through the firewall!
• Working from the battery, connect the inline fuse holder,
to positive wire going to #30. (You can connect the inline
fuse holder directly to the battery and then to the wire
running to the #30 on the relay. Do not install the
fuse at this time!
• Connect the other end of the #30 wire to the relay (or
relay connection block if used)
• Connect the wire coming from #87 on the relay to the
positive terminal on the Ammeter, from the negative
terminal of the ammeter the H2X Hydrogen Generator.
(If the meter shows negative amperage during
operation, you have the wires reversed. This does NO
harm however.
• Connect the ground wire from #86 on the relay to the
metal of the chassis. (Ensure paint is remove is needed
to get good contact)
• Connect the switching wire from #85 to the dash
mounted interrupt switch and from there to the fuse
 panel, to a spot only live with the engine running or key
in running position.
Note: It is essential that the H2X AL DIY be
wired to one of your automobile fuses that is
only energized when the key is turned on!
This prevents the H2X AL DIY from operating
when the automobile is not running!
• Tuck the fuse holder under the dash and mount the
switch and ammeter on your dashboard (or anywhere
else that is convenient).

Step 3 – Cleaning the unit

The H2X AL DIY needs to be flushed device with water to clean
it. Open the drain on the H2X AL DIY by opening the fill plug
attached to the clear tube below the device. Use water to flush
out the H2X AL DIY device until the water runs clear. You can
use a garden hose to flush the unit, or simply pour water from
a contained through the device

Step 4 – Connecting the gas line

Hydrogen generated by the unit needs to be transferred to
your vehicle’s engine. This is done through the hydrogen gas
line.
• Hook the supplied tubing to the top of the H2X AL DIY.
Run the tubing to the air filter box of your engine. It is
recommended that you connect the tubing after the
filter so the gas is not inhibited by the filter material
itself. Also be sure the tubing is connected after the
MAF/MAP sensors.
• Warning: Do not connect the hydrogen gas line to
the engine’s PCV (positive crankcase ventilation)
line! This can cause the H2X AL DIY to run dry.
Warning: Do not use hose clamps to secure
these hoses. Allowing the gas line to blow
off freely in case of an over-pressure
situation is the safest approach.

Step 5 – Add the Electrolyte mixture

The H2X AL DIY uses a solution of Potassium Hydroxide and water
to generate hydrogen gas.
 • Prepare a mixture of the electrolyte (potassium
hydroxide) and distilled water. For the mixture use, use 1
teaspoon per quart of distilled water. Always add the
potassium hydroxide to the distilled water, instead of
adding water to the potassium hydroxide. Measure a
quart of water and add the potassium hydroxide slowly,
stirring as you do. Stir or shake vigorously (if using a
closed container) for at least 10 minutes to ensure a
homogenous solution is created.
• Unscrew the plug from the top of the H2X AL DIY and
pour the mixture using a funnel into the unit, up to the
fill line on the clear tube. After filling, replace the screw-
in plug, preferably after wrapping it with Teflon tape. The
plug should be snug but not overly tight.
Note: If you lose the top plug you can
purchase a ½-inch plug from a hardware
store. The plug should be snug when
inserted.

Step 6 – Startup
Once you have mounted the unit according to these
instructions, it is time to start the automobile.

• After starting the automobile engine, flip the toggle

switch on and check the ammeter. It doesn’t matter
which way the ammeter deflects (right or left) and check
the reading after it stabilizes. A typical reading will be
between 7 and 12 amps.

Note: The ideal mixture of potassium

hydroxide will generate amperage of 7 to 12
amps. The exact amount of electrolyte used
depends on the electrolyte purity and other
factors, so some experimentation will help
you optimize the mixture over time. The
ammeter can provide a useful feedback tool
for you. If the ammeter shows over 20 amps,
there is too much electrolyte. Drain some of
 the mixture and add distilled water with no
electrolyte. If there is too little amperage on
the ammeter, usually below 5 amps, you
need to increase the amount of electrolyte.

• When you turn the H2X AL DIY switch on, you will often
hear a change in the engine speed as it adjusts to the
H2X AL DIY. Often the engine revolutions will reduce as
the engine uses less fuel.

Note: if your engine increases revolutions

when the H2X AL DIY is turned on, you may
have to retard the engine timing a little to
compensate for the hydrogen gas being
burned. A mechanic can adjust the timing
for you. The ideal setting is before top dead
center. This only applies to older carburetor
operated vehicles.

Warning: Do not let the H2X AL DIY run

empty, and do not overfill the reactor.
Damage may result from either action!
• You do not have to add electrolyte every time you add
water to the H2X AL DIY. Until the ammeter shows a low
reading, you can top up the device with only water a few
times before adding more electrolyte mix.

Step 7 – Maintenance
Your H2X AL DIY requires very little regular maintenance other
than to check the levels at intervals. Every four months, we
recommend you thoroughly clean the unit by removing the top of
the H2X AL DIY and flushing it repeatedly with water. Once
cleaned, add a fresh electrolyte solution.
Additional Information

Winter Operation

The Hydrogen Generators do not freeze in the winter due to the

amount of lye (the electrolyte) in the water. As a precaution,
some do recommend the addition of a 2-3 oz of denatured
alcohol to the solution to guard against freezing (you must add
some alcohol to the bubbler as it is only filled with Distilled
water).

We also recommend the addition of a Polar Pad (available on

our website) that allows you to start your hydrogen generator
at optimum operating temperature, in the middle of winter,
which will increase your fuel savings even on short trips! In the
summer, it can take up to 5 min to reach optimum operating
temp, and in the winter it can take upwards of 10 min. By
reducing the time it takes for the hydrogen unit to warm up,
you will begin saving fuel even while your engine idles while
warming.

Larger alternator
Some older vehicles may need a larger alternator to properly
benefit from the H2X AL DIY. Visit the website
http://www.excessiveamperage.com/ for good-quality 200 amp
alternators at a reasonable price.

Potassium Hydroxide
The Potassium Hydroxide (KOH) is included with your kit. Start
testing the amperage draw at 2 tablespoons max. Each vehicle
is different due to effectiveness of alternator. Quality of the
wiring job has a large effect, (poor connections, and mean
more resistance in turn this causes a loss in efficiency). The
Supplied 8oz Bottle will last at least 6 months.

More can be purchased on our Website under the Hydrogen

Accessories page.
Wiring diagram
Below is a wiring diagram that shows the unit.

Warranty Return Instructions

Before sending any products please call for RAN.

At (905) 228 3184 ask for shipping or billing

Note that there is a restocking fee of $44.95 on all returned

units that have not been installed, returns outside of warranty,
or if an order is canceled after more than 24 hours.

Please return the unit to the address below, you are

responsible for payment of the shipping, and please include a
brief description of why you are returning the unit.

A refund will be given to you upon receipt of the unit in

accordance to our T&C available at
http://www.savefuel.ca/terms.html and as outlined below

Please email the tracking number to anne@savefuel.ca

Ensure the box is marked 'Product Return'

Supplemental OxyHydrogen Inc.

Warranty Returns
131 Cushman Road Unit 1
St-Catherines, ON
L2M 6T5
Canada
Mailing Address

Savefuel.ca
162 Pembroke St W.
Suite 1349
Pembroke Ontario
K8A6X6
Canada

Support Contact Info

Submitting an online support ticket allows us to respond via email and
send additional documentation if needed. You can submit a “ticket” 24
Hours a day at http://www.savefuel.ca/support

If you have purchased the Deluxe package you can call us at at 905 228
3184 or 613 635 4747
from 9Am to 5:30Pm EST Monday to Friday.
Terms & Conditions

Savefuel.ca
Div of HydroGenX Corporation
Service Terms & Conditions

PLEASE READ CAREFULLY. THIS "SAVEFUEL.CA SERVICE TERMS AND

CONDITIONS" ("AGREEMENT") IS A LEGALLY BINDING AGREEMENT
BETWEEN EACH USER (INCLUDING ANY SUBSCRIBER, FREE TRIAL USER,
OR PURCHASER OF ANY SERVICE REQUIRING PAYMENT OF A FEE) ("YOU"
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READ THIS AGREEMENT, THAT YOU UNDERSTAND IT, AND THAT YOU
CONSENT TO BE BOUND BY ALL OF ITS TERMS AND CONDITIONS AS
DESCRIBED BELOW.

a. I UNDERSTAND THAT IF FOR WHATEVER REASON, IF I AM UNSATISFIED

WITH MY PURCHASE (OXY HYDROGEN GENERATOR OR SUPPLEMENTAL
HYDROGEN SECRETS REVEALED EBOOK), THAT I HAVE A FULL THIRTY
(30) DAYS FROM SHIPPING DATE TO REQUEST A REFUND. FAILURE
INSTALL THE OXY-HYDROGEN GENERATOR ON A CHASSIS OF AN
INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINE AS PER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
OR FAILURE REQUEST ASSITANCE WITH THE INSTALLATION OR TUNING
OF THE OXY-HYDROGEN GENERATOR OR FAILURE TO CONTACT SUPPORT,
VIA TELEPHONE, EMAIL OR THE SUPPORT TICKET SYSTEM AT
WWW.SAVEFUEL.CA/SUPPORT FOR ASSISTANCE WITH MY OXY-
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REFUND YOU AGREE TO RETURN THE PRODUCT AT YOUR EXPENSE TO
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SHIPPING. ISSUING A CHARGEBACK FOR THIS PRODUCT IS NOT AN
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