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Mercedes Valladares Mercedes Valladares is the founder of M721Organics and has been an independent designer for over 15 years. Her work experience commenced during college with manufacturers based in New York and Hong Kong. Her education includes LIM College, International Fine Arts College and design certification from the Paris Fashion Institute. She produces eco-crafting videos and writes recycling articles online. By Mercedes Valladares, eHow Contributor updated November 13, 2010

Print this article 1. Imported products are assigned numerical codes in the Harmonized Tariff Schedules. Manufactured products such as apparel are categorized and divided into subcategories. Specific classifications are assigned to each garment style. Imports rely on these codes to determine quotas, tariffs or other U.S. customs issues generally resulting in added surcharges. The apparel industry often alters certain garment details to ensure a specific quota category and avoid extra charges.

Women's Apparel Classification

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Categories such as women's apparel are divided into subcategories and are classified by style such as blouses, pants, shorts, dresses and skirts. The styles are then subdivided by the textile used to manufacture the garment. These classifications are assigned a specific numerical code and used at U.S. customs. According to the Office of Textile and Apparel, "Categories numbered in the: 200 series are of cotton and/or man-made fiber, 300 series are of cotton, 400 series are of wool..." Quotas are issued to the assigned codes and payable by the manufacturers. For instance, a jacket including a zipper and designed as part of a related-separates group is classified in a different quota, resulting in a higher cost to the manufacturer. "Related separates" refers to coordinating garments. The designer alters the garment by removing all jacket trims to reduce the cost of the garment.

Children's Apparel Classification

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Children's apparel is divided differently than other classifications. Categories such as playsuits, tops, dresses, shorts and pants are divided into subcategories according to the textile type. For example, corduroy bottoms are separated from denim bottoms. It is then subdivided by sizing departments. For instance, girls wear includes toddlers, 4 to 6x and 7 to16. Boys wear includes toddlers, 4 to 7 and 8 to 20. Newborn and infants are subdivided by months such as 0 to 6 months and have separate groupings like baby accessories. Specific classifications are assigned by dividing the garment type and sizing department. Separate classifications are assigned for two- and three- piece sets including a top, bottom and a give-away like a baseball cap. These sets are sold as playwear and have assigned codes separate from individual garments. For instance, playsuits under a "237" category number are subdivided by the description. According to the Office of Textile and Apparel, a girl's corduroy bottom as part of a playsuit has an HTS number of 6204 and a code number of 62.4046.

Outerwear Classification
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Outerwear is described as any garment meant to be worn over other apparel. The item generally includes padding as well as trims like zippers, buttons, and snaps. Specific silhouette details such as a front placket automatically changes a garment classification to outerwear, assigning it a different code and quota. The front placket is an extended piece of fabric covering the center front zipper. Another example is ski-inspired padded vests with zip-off sleeves and hoods. Garments assembled, packaged and shipped with the sleeves and hoods zipped to the vest most likely results in an outerwear classification. The garment style loses the vest classification and is assigned an outerwear code resulting in added costs to the manufacturer.

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References

Office of Textile and Apparel (OTEXA): U.S. Textiles and Apparel Office of Textile and Apparel (OTEXA): U.S. Textile and Apparel Category System: Code 237

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There are various fabric inspection systems such as 4-point system , 10-point system and Graniteville 78 system. But we shall see only the first method. 4-POINT SYSTEM: The 4 point system, also called American Apparel Manufacturers Association (AAMA) point grading system for determining fabric quality, is widely used by producers of apparel fabrics. Fabric flaws or defects are assigned point values based on the following: Points allotted Length of defect in fabric, either length or width Up to 3 inch 1 Over 3 inches and up to 6 inch 2 Over 6 inches and up to 9 inch 3 Over 9 inches 4 Holes and openings (Largest dimensions) 1 inch or less 2 88

Over 1 inch

4 Total defect points per 100 yd2 are calculated, and normally those fabric rolls containing more than 40 points /100 yd2 are considered seconds However a garment manufacturer, based on the price line and type of garments produced, may use more or less than 40 points /100 yd2 as an acceptance criteria. For example, a fabric roll 120 yd long and 48 inch wide contains the following defects: 2 defects up to 3 inch 2x1 = 2 points 5 defects over 3 inch but less than 6 inch 5x2 = 10 points 1 defect over 6 inch but less than 9 inch 1x3 = 3 points 1 defect over 9 inch 1x4 = 4 p0ints Total defect points = 19 points Therefore, Total points scored in the roll x 3600 Points /100 yd2 = Fabric width in inches x total yards inspected = 19 x 3600 48 x 120 = 11.9 defect points /100 yd2 So if the acceptance criteria are 40 points /100 yd2, then this roll is acceptable. The maximum number of defects to be counted against any one linear yard is 4 points. Overall, fabric quality is assessed on the basis of the number of defect points per 100 yd2 of fabric. 89 6.SEWING THREADS: During the sewing process in a high speed lock stitch machine, the thread is subjected to complex kinematics and dynamic conditions. The speed at which it passes through the needle eye can reach 140 165 km/hr and at the moment at which the thread is caught by the sewing hook , the speed reaches 2000 m/sec ,while moving at such speeds ,the thread is subjected to friction from a number of guides ,from the needle eye ,from the fabric being sewn , from bobbin case assembly ,and from the bottom thread. At the same time, the thread is subjected to many stresses, all of which take place very quickly and at high speed. Therefore ,sewing threads should be checked for the following characteristics : Construction of yarn ( count ,number of twist, strength ) Sewability (ability to sew). Imperfections (should be free from slubs, knots, etc). Finish ( yarn should be smooth ,lubricate ,etc ) Colour (should match with the standard). Package density. Winding (winding should be uniform). 7.ZIPPERS: it should check for the following : - Dimensions ( check for the correct width of tape ) - Top and bottom stops should be fastened securely. - Zipper tape should be uniform in colour if that is important. - Pull tab should be affixed firmly to the slider body. - Slider should ride freely but must not be so free that it is loose on the chain.

- Check also to be sure the slider locks securely. 8.

BUTTONS, BUCKLES, SNAP FASTENERS,AND SO ON:

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Buttons: should have large, clean sew holes that are free from flash and will not cut
the thread. Holes must be located properly in relation to the edge of the button. Buttons should be of uniform thickness. Buckles:should be checked for any visual defects such as sharp, burred edges. If a buckle is cloth or vinyl covered, there should not be an appreciable difference in the buckle and garment materials. Snap fasteners: The attaching machinery should locate the snap fasteners accurately and at proper pressure .Component parts should be checked to close tolerances and free from dirt and other foreign substances so that they will feed rapidly through the hopper and permit uniform and trouble free assembly.

.1.3 IN PROCESS INSPECTION

In process inspection means the inspection of parts before the are assembled into a complete product. In apparel manufacturing, this means inspection at various points in the entire manufacturing process from spreading fabric to pressing /finishing. In process inspection can be either quality control inspector or individual operators themselves after they perform their respective operation (s).

SPREADING:
Various factors that can affect spreading should be checked, such as ply alignment, ply tension of slackness, bowing, splicing, and so on. A tight spread will contract after cutting, resulting in smaller components than what should be. A slack spread possesses excess length within the stipulated end of the spread .Cut components from slack spread will tend to be oversized. Bowing is the distortion of filling yarns from a straight line across the width of a fabric. This would cause unbalanced stresses in the fabric, resulting in slackness and tightness in the ply that will lead to undersized components.

CUTTING :
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Cutting quality is a prerequisite for quality in a finished product. In addition, cut work quality affects the ease and cost with which construction is accomplished. The quality of work leaving the cutting room is determined by how true the cut fabric parts are to the pattern, how smooth or rough the cut surface is material or fabric defects in the cut fabric parts, shade differences between cut fabric pieces within a bundle.

.1.4 FINAL INSPECTION

Final inspection consists of inspecting finished garments from the customers point of view ,size measurement ,form fitting ( putting garments on the proper size mannikins to see if they properly fit the labelled sizes ),and live modelling if necessary ( again to see if the garments properly fit the labelled sizes ). Final inspection may occur before or after garments are packed in poly bags and boxes. It is done after garments are packed, then proper size and style markings on the package can also be checked .In any case, there should be a list of points to be checked in a garment, including a table of finished measurements. Let us see for instance final quality inspection of mens shirt.

Serial No Location Inspection For 1 Collars Both points same length, uniformly stitched, No broken stitches, should lay flat. 2 Buttons and Button holes Properly spaced, No puckering or fullness, No cut stitches, No broken buttons. 3 Pocket Top of the pocket horizontal, uniformly stitched, corners securely tacked, should lay flat. 4 Hems Uniformly stitched, No puckering, skip or broken stitch. 5 Yoke or shoulder Pleats properly placed, Uniformly stitched, No puckering, Skipped or broken stitches. 6 Side seams Stripes, plaids, checks or patterns should match. 7 Cuff Stripes, plaids, checks or patterns should match the sleeve. 8 Finished appearance Clean of all loose thread. No oil /dirt stains. Free of any 92

Intro. to Apparel Industry

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