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Olga Petrova, Denis Bukin, Maxim Bukin

The Manual of Nail Art

Olga Petrova, Denis Bukin, Maxim Bukin The Manual of Nail Art Moscow, Russia, 2006 Page #

Moscow, Russia, 2006


This book is necessary for everybody who decides to bold experiment in pleasant changing of his appearance. As Russian classic said, ‘A man who's active and incisive can yet keep nail-care much in mind’. We completely agree with his opinion. Every person dowered with imagination, tastefulness and dainty sense of beauty is able to make a masterpiece on his fingernails. There are thousands of such people, but a little of them knows about talents drowsed in theirs inner life. Therefore this Book is necessary to them – to wake up, to direct, to help them. We are not aimed on limiting your initiative by set of recipes of pleasant results. Quite the contrary, we’ll show you ways to perfect your skills, tell you about of all kinds of mistakes are waiting you and, ultimately, we’ll promote your professional growth and pleasurable sensation of your individual success. Our book is written by professional nail-masters in co-operation with journalist, and that’s why it profitably differs from another one. We will go step by step, not from elementary to advanced, but from less difficult to more difficult, because it is the only way to get an effective and good result. You should not fear of failure – there are many advice, step-by-step instructions and useful information in our book. This book is constructed as full self-teaching textbook, and on every stage you can reach positive and completed result. This allows you to read our paper from any place, and you found many useful information to use immediately. This book is faced to everybody who wants to hear us. As authors, we are not supposing this book as vessel for ultimate truth, but we consider it one of many attempts to find your own way of osmoses professional skills and to help the authors to embody theirs feelings and dreams. If you would like to speak with authors after the book will be read, please contact us by Sincerely yours, Olga Petrova, Denis Bukin, Maxim Bukin

Copyright © 2005-2006 by Olga Petrova, Denis Bukin, Maxim Bukin All rights reserved. Reproduction of any part of this book without prior written consent is prohibited. Visit on the web at and

Table of contents







Nail Polishes




Application properties


Manufacturers and prices


Types of polishes


Marvelous stresses


Dust, microsparkles




Garnishing with commodities




Other accessories




Needle and toothpick


Gel pen






Nail files




Metallic curette


Cuticle softener




Other instruments




Foundations of composition


The First Step: Source of Ideas.


The Second Step: Arrangement & Composition


The Third Step: Training


The Fourth Step: Selecting Materials and Instruments.


The Fifth Step: Preparing Nail to the Work.


The Sixth Step: Creating Background


Seventh Step: Creating the Composition


The Eighth Step: Rules of Saving the Executed Painting


Foundations of the work


Classical manicure


French manicure.


Drawing with Water-based Paints




A structure of nail


External structure of the nail


Nails Health


Nails problems


Looking after your nails


Looking after your hands.


Grafting the Nails




About technologies


Grafted nail treatment


Nail treatment after removing the artificial coatings


Chapter I. The history of nail-arts (the design of fingernails)

Beautiful hands should have not only the glabrous and tender skin, but also tidy and fine fingernails. The most beautiful hand will be disgustingly looked with sick, untended and grubby fingernails. Conceptually, you can bring your nails to perfection by the manicure. But you should take into account that there is no point to fall in all style ideas. Fashion is inconstantly – most recently all designers harped us that acme of perfection is tone of nail polish matching the colour of lipstick. Why, the elegance woman is unable to make up the eyelids with spring sky colour, the lips with blood-red lipstick and the nails- with favorite green nail polish. Women have to submit to caprice vogue. But- a few years later - designers are changing hearts. Henceforward the combination of blue, red and green is the pink of fashion. Substandard fingernails full of brightness, with spangles and special pictures for polish is what about the most brave fashionmongers was unable to dream either. The name of this rave of colours is Nail-Art. Being the fashionable up-to-date event, Nail-art is art of fingernail decorating. It would be a mistake to think that art of nail painting is modern appearance. As a matter of fact, the history of nail-art numbers some centuries. Far back in Indochina European colonizers for the first time saw uncommonly beautiful bird’s plumets glued on fingernails of aboriginal women. Now this kind of decorating uses for holydays and fashion shows in Europe and America. There are professionals now who are capable to make a masterpiece of fingernails, for hours and hours working with these tiny pictures. After such procedure your nails can be quite rival master’s canvas. Likewise any other arts, Neil-art have its own trends. Lately the painting on transparent surface came in fashion. There is no matter, whether you have artificial nails or your own ones. Proficient puts the layer of transparent polish on your fingernails and then paints whatever you want. Extraordinary popular figures are hieroglyphs, exotic flowers, geometrical patterns, oriental patterns. The main is that there should be remained non-painted parts for glass-nail effect. If your relish the exquisite classics, you can make a French-style manicure. Do you know that French manicure does not relate to France as well as French kiss? Actually this kind of manicure suggested by ORLY company in 1976. The ORLY company is situated in California not far from Hollywood. One of that dream studio producers asked Jeff Pink (the founder of ORLY) to help actresses not to apply the new nail polish every time when they change their dresses. And then the new idea arose: to make the fingernail healthy-looked with lively white polish on their prominent end. This style prefers the mild size of nails and natural shape like "spatula" or "smile". French manicure is still popular because it suits to any garb, image, mood, and looks naturally. Hodiernal fashionmongers can change the white nail border to golden or silvery one. It can be done for one of nails in spite of all ten to make the "French-style" much more refined. For example, now art-French-style - combination of red fingernails with blue or green ends - is in fashion. Also blue and white combination is good- looking. Such playing with colours elates you even in very gray day! After that the enterprising Americans decided to offer a new style for theirs public-spirited countrywomen. For these style maximally natural tones of cover required, without jumps from roots of nails till theirs free ends. And to spite French manicure this kind was named proudly “Beverly Hills”! Later such a new notion as American manicure' appeared, it will suit impudent and independent women. A real American manicure' requires living, bright and even virulent tones of polish on long nails of an oval shape. A new idea of a full lipstick and polish colour match was born on this style. Now stylists and designers trend that a polish should rather match a colour of shadows on eyelids. As new offers of designer houses revive the style of the 70-s, a polish colour for nails is offered as bright, in rose-lilaceous tones. As for Spanish school of manicure it learns to put a layer of milk-white polish on a polish of a bright colour except an ordinary vehicle to get a more living and deep colour.

Now professionals of a modern manicure offer a nail piercing that is topical as never. If you have

a habit to make others faint with earrings in much unexpected spots, you should try a nail

piercing. It is stylish, fashionable and funky, and the most important thing is that a nail piercing

is not painful at all in distinction from piercing on a nose, lips and other spots. Besides nails is

one of a few spots where piercing results can look not only extravagant but elegant as well. A double or triple piercing looks very beautiful and unusual. Artificial nails are better for piercing but if you do not wear them, you can use your own ones. By the way the nails can be decorated

with jewels. For this purpose an eyelet is drilled in an artificial nail, a silver and gold decoration

is hanged in it. Flat decorations are just glued and strengthened with a special composition. A

double or triple piercing looks beautiful and unusual.

Since ancient times it was noted that shape and condition of your nails could much say about your character and health. For example, the owners of spatula-shaped nails are often relating to sort of particularly men of action and realistic people. Their overactivity can be neutralized and appeased with relaxation exercises and yoga. Quadrangular fingernails are often points at unexpansive, disciplined owner with good self-control, a man of method. An oval-shaped and conical-shaped nails are the feature of artists, but also refers to instable, adaptive people. A pounce-liked shape of nails splits on the egocentrism, impatience, petulance, greed. Concaved nails are often points at people apt to nervous exhaustion. There is no doubt that nail polish brings to perfection of modern woman guise. And the abundance of varied tones and textures make the faire sex spend not nearly one hour per week on manicure. However, probably it would be able to change the colour of nail polish within seconds soon, and more over-it would be able to do without removing previous layer of polish and applying the new one. The matter is that Spanish inventor Carlos Gonzalez, the member of CIDETEC institute announced about designing the unique artificial fingernails are capable to repainting by sending order from special device. The basis of such high-industrial cosmetic accessories is several layers of special electrochromic polymeric materials, layer of electrolytic substance and the layer of fixative substance. To change the color, for example, from green to red, is suffice to connect the electrodes and push the switch. Besides. The control device have two special equipments: scanner for caughting the colour you like from any surface, fabric or magazine page, and small display to preview. Spanish inventor have already got the patient on these technology, and may be this methods is usable for a number of another applications.

Chapter II. Kinds of modern Nail-Art

Put oneself into nail-master’s hands is a good cause, as to deal with your nails yourself, too. Above all, you should study closely different kinds and trends of nail-art in order to make your manicure not only amazingly looked, but also matching to event are waiting for you. In spite of quickly changing fashion, stiletto heels are always popular. Might it be suitable to square- cornered nails have been up-of-date recently? Predatory, peaked-shaped fingernails after the long break are coming in now. What colour can underline this shape best of all? Red, of course! An image of femme fatale is the topical again and is no more the sign of bad taste. The image of teenager girl is no more the pink of fashion. By the way, orange and acid pink colors are up-of date except all gradations of red. Five years ago such combination can shock everybody. Now this is most fashionable combination of the season. For businesswoman the good idea is to use the symbol of company as picture for nails. One of the smartest trends is the repetition the design of fabric of your clothes on your fingernails. Wide range of ornaments and fretworks are used, such as polka-dot figures, twigs, and even image of animals. Fabric on nails is one of the most popular trends now. Laces, nets and so on are used for decorating nails more and more often.

Chapter III. Substances and instruments

Nail Polishes


Mostly we remember that nail polish is viscous chemical material with colour as the main value of it. The range of nail polish colours is very large, much more than in lipstick production, where cold colours are absent, and sometimes several manufacturers can offer their worshippers tens and hundreds of hues. But first of all it is good to make clear the consisting of polish, because every component is of considerable practical importance. The major polish component is cellulose nitrate responsible for building the equable film and for anchoring film to nail surface. If diluting is not in right ratio, the entirely composition is certain to detach. One more element with more sophisticated title – toluene-sulfonamide-formaldehyde gum – is need for lustrous shining after the drying and to increase the film anchoring. Also, one of the ingredients of nowadays polish is so-called plastic component, usually castor oil, camphanon and butyl stearate. These components are required for film to be elastic and to cover entirely nail surface without blobs and pellets. Common thus is also used in polishes as filler, besides, it improves shine and stick. There are solvents, too (for example, acetone, benzine, butyl, ethyl acetate), it solves the polish in necessary ratio and responsible for time of drying. Giving the major colour is performed by dye, usually it is iron and titanium oxides, and a very little more organic pigments (by the way, mica is contained in several perlaceous polishes). Yet another delightful part of polishes is ultraviolet absorbent designed for protection against the discoloration, greatly useful feature. And, finishing, nutrient materials (ceramides, proteins, calcium) are responsible for improvement and moisturizing of fingernails. As the fact, nutrient materials don’t present in all polishes – you should read the wrapping closely.

Application properties

Good polish is a treasure. Just imaging: in little phial the wonderful essence is enclosed, capable to exalt you at once with its colour (under the condition of correct covering) and excite

reasonable envy of all your friends. This is treasure, exactly. Besides, the good polish does not dry up till half a year after the acquisition. But use-by date exists, after all; usually it takes about one and half year since launch date. The more time has passed away since polish launch date, the more it dries. You can try to correct it with solvents, and is better to solve the jelled polish than dried up one. Sometimes there are special solving liquids for jelled polishes in offer, but usually varnish remover is suitable for this purpose. Also, you should take note of varnish remover additives deteriorating polish quality. These are different oils, nutrients, perfume compounds. Of course solvents are not the panacea. And after two-three times you have applied such method to reviving your polish it will got out of order, blobs will appeared and covering became unevenly. This is a trite idea but the only way to decide polish is good or not is taste it yourself. However let’s try to understand basic principles of choosing the polish during shopping. First of all, put your attention on polish colour. Looking at shop window with polishes try to imagine the colour you liked onto your nails: perhaps, this one will tuned out to be not for you. Please remember that the testers on white paper do not exactly represent the polish on your nails. With the help of testers you can easy estimate transparence of the polish, i.e. how many layers of polish do you need. Note that warm coloured skin of hands required polish of cold color and vice versa. Secondly, estimate the transparence. If the polish is very transparent, it is better to deposit it on denser one being the ordinary vehicle, for example, onto the white substrate. The colour of polish is proved to estimate looking at finished patterns of coloured nail. Thirdly, it is necessary to take phial and estimate the consistence – the drop must fall from the brush during 5 second, else polish you have chosen is too viscous, it will deposited badly and will dried up soon. The fourth, you should carry out the external examination. Look at the brush - fibers must be put in aligned, not ridge; brush should has about 1,5 cm longitude, with soft, thin and flexible hair. Look at the phial closely – if label is glued slovenly, letters are wiped out, phial is crooked and scarred, it is better not to buy such polish, because externality is often reflects the inner entity. It is better to buy the polish with mix-balls – these are the little metal balls in the bottom of phial. Shaking up the phial, you shall mix the lining up to indiscrete mass.

Manufacturers and prices

Market is considerably unique in every country – sometimes magnificent polishes is considered to be a wonder of chemical industry can be found among the offers of fameless manufacturers. However it is preferable not to risk in the presence of verified source with verified commodities. We divided all of the manufacturers by four groups conditionally:

Exclusive, expensive, professional and inaccessible for convenient consumer This explains simply – there are no polish at the price of $30-50 per phial in the bulk sales, because it is used for filming, image-building of top-models or buying in special boutiques.

Professional polishes, the manufacturers of which has representations in Russia. For example, LCN, Akzent Direct, Creative nail design, OPI. There are some manufacturers with different types of polishes – professional and casual – as example, the Orly company. Its polishes cost $6-20, average price - $7.

Advertised polishes are on sale in cosmetic shops: Revlon, Paloma, Lakme, Bourjois Paris, Margarit Astor, Maybelline. Green mama. Costs: $3-10, average - $5.

Retailed on markets. There are cheap cosmetics and there are forgeries. For example, Golden Rose, Veronigue, Catherine Arley, Gala. It is impossible sometimes to identify the manufacturer. Costs: $0,7-2, average - $1.

Of course every manufacturer has its own advantages and disadvantages. As you, our dear readers, try to choose your polish several times, you will got hand in this simply business. It

should be noted that production for professional differs from usual, but it is not fatal. Sometimes usual polish is much better than professional one, and the major thing is your experience. Actually professional polish can contains some special additives absent in usual polish. We must give you warning that there are several standards of consisting material in professional polishes while polish is for sale on markets has not definite ingredients. As the matter of fact, the polish from markets is a pig in a poke.

Types of polishes

There are unimaginable amount of wonderful liquids for beautiful fingernails. First, it should be noted that all polishes divide into several types:

Lacquer base, or lower layer, is necessary for protecting nails from colour polish and also gives a better anchoring. This is transparent polish and all kinds of the polish-healthier, rouborant polishes and so on. These polishes are deposit as the first layer (and also furrow filler).

Upper polish – is coating for covering the upper lay. It serves for defense from scratching and makes the middle layer more brightly. Upper polish is usual transparent polish or special transparent liquid with different properties, such as fast drying, strong luster or, on the contrary, for strong dull surface. This layer deposits for consolidating all the results

Basic polish is usually colour one. It is situated between two layers – lacquer base and upper polish. The colour of basic polish is colour we will see on nails. Basic polish can have every co;our you wish.

Also it should be note that in present time there are enormous amount of different polishes on markets, including polish for strengthening and improving the surface of nails. Don’t be afraid of it, it is quite normal. Let us try to define theirs functions. Such polishes are also divide into several types:

Medicinal, strengthening or with special effects;

Medicinal polishes have an influence upon the nails and require systematically depositing. But take care of it – these polishes are aimed on treatment but are absent in drug-stores, and very often there are no medical recommendation on it. Therefore the result is diffuse. If you nevertheless decide to use it, watch closely on condition of you nails during the treatment period. You should remember that liquids with calcium mustn’t use often and over a long period of time. Remedies with oil soften the cuticle. Remedies with vitamins are used for growing of nails. Please remember that such remedies ought to use fairly, and during the period of treatment it is senseless to make a complex manicure;

Strengthening polishes – with acryl additions, silk, vinyl and so on. These polishes not improve your nails but give a defense and hardness to your nails during the time you used it. Such polishes could be used for further nail-art and as lower layer;

Polishes with different effects – shining, fast drying – is upper coats.

And for valuable description of different types of polishes we built a general table, right choice can be done studying it.

Type of polish


homogeneous colour





spread polish






Nail are covered with two layers (except dark-coloured polish depositing in one layer and polish with very light colours coating with

Picture #01 Perlaceous Picture #02 Polishes are shot with perlaceouc tone with good stableness. T

Picture #01


Picture #01 Perlaceous Picture #02 Polishes are shot with perlaceouc tone with good stableness. T r

Picture #02

Polishes are shot with perlaceouc tone with good stableness.

Transparent polish Using as lacquer base and as upper polish (lower and upper layers). Protects and adds shining. Makes the colour more brightly. Contains aniline dyes. Protects the surface of nails from colouring with bright- coloured polish.

Used for smoothing the surface of nail. There are pink and transparent polishes. It is similar with usual transparent polish but created specially for basement layer. Usually such polish contains useful additions.

Express-polish. Dry up during one minute. Mostly used as upper coating. Can be coloured also.

Transparent (coloured) polish with sparkling tinsel of different shape, size and colours.

Lacquer base

Fast drying

Polish with sparkles

c q u e r b a s e Fast drying Polish with sparkles Picture #03

Picture #03

Dull polishes – for example “Dull hoarfrost”

Has not habitual lacquer reflection. Surface is sleek, velvet. Dries up instantly. Dense polish. There is transparent dull polish capable to make dull structure to any colour polish.

three layers).

Have visible structure, therefore it is necessary to pass the brush on nail regularly from basement to end.

Tinsel can scratch the surface of nail while removing this polish. Therefore depositing the protecting lacquer base is necessary.

Presents as polish for men manicure. Unfortunately, dull surface is often rubs away and becomes non- uniformly glossy one.

Picture #04 O n e l a y e r p o l i s

Picture #04

One layer polish


Bitter polish

Hypoallergic polish

Chameleon polish

Thermal polish

a m e l e o n ” p o l i s h Thermal polish

Picture #05

Polish with “Old porcelain” effect

Aquarelle polish

Ultraviolet polishes

Dense polish.

Contains liquid silk fibers and keratin. Protects from the influence of environment. Actually it is the upper polish with protecting additions.

Covers the surface of nails during the coating in one layer. But rubs away rapidly.

Deposits after the manicure. Nails become stronger.





Has a bitter taste and intends for


protecting nails from habit to bite nails.

Mix-balls do not contain nickel. Polish can be purchased in drug- stories.

Change the colour depending on angle of inclination of nails.

Change the colour gradually depending on nail surface temperature. This effect works in doors and out of doors.

Surface looks as if it cracks with time, splitting are seen.

Transparent polish with wide range of colors has glossier surface than usual one, as if it has not dry up yet. Gives to the nails tender and pleasant colors.

Does not contains toluene- sulfonamide-formaldehyde gum and therefore does not rise up the allergy caused by contact with polish

The temperature on the surface of nail differs from the temperature on the end of nail, the French-effect is creating.

The upper layer become shrivel over 3 seconds after the depositing.

It is useful to apply this kind of polish in French manicure. Aquarelle smoothes out the sharp boundary between free end (smile) and the couch of nail. Transparence can be used with good effect in nail- art with creating a depth in composition.

Polish changes its colour in night club, balling, casino, disco under the influence of UV-radiation and displays as bright fluorescence of pink, blue, green, turquoise.



C r è m e - p o l i s h Micaceous Picture #06 P

Picture #06


Polishes for painting.

Has an insoluble pigments. Stripes can be formed during the depositing; it is also useful in nail- art.

Contains especially large pigments and has a rough surface.

Contains special polumeric materials. Water-based polish. Does not suit for pedicure.

Denser in colour and more liquid in consistence.

Takes away as a whole film.

There are special professional nail- art sets of 6 phials of different colours (for example, red, blue, black, white, yellow, green). Polish is dense and pure-coloured. Paintings with these polishes are similar to gouache painting. Inside the phial there is special brush for painting stripes. Polish is good for combining, if unusual polish (chameleon or perlaceous) used for lacquer background. Such sets can be found in cosmetic shops, salons and internet shops. Such polish you can buy, too, in single phials. It is handy to use separate brushes for painting.

Polishes in phial about 3,5 ml volume. Brush reaches the bottom; polish does not dry up for a long time and spends almost entirely. This polish goes in the smallest beautician.

Polishes from collections Such polishes came out to the season (winter, spring, summer,

Tiny polishes


(holyday), to certain place (dance- club), specific (aquarelle), hypoallergic series, polishes for soft nails and so on. Have a peculiarity to disappear from the shops exactly when you have “tasted” it Seasonal collections, putting out to the certain time of year, try to reflect the mood of that time. These polishes follow the fashion and create it.




Marvelous stresses

Marvelous stresses Picture #07 Strasses is small crystals, an imitation of gem. Strasses make from wide

Picture #07

Strasses is small crystals, an imitation of gem. Strasses make from wide range of materials, often from glass, crystal, plastic and light metal. Using the strasses aimed on creating charming and unique patterns on the nails. Because of its small size and complexity of deposition pattern on every nail is really unique. There are the stresses of different colours, shapes, sizes (from 1 to 3 mm in diameter). You can buy it separately, or in set of 10 pieces, or in box with 80-100 pieces inside. Strasses are used in defferent types of designing. Put your attention on the fact that now there are many cheap strasses of bad quality – these are the plastic stresses. There are of different shapes, but all of them become dull after the coating with transparent polish. Also, theirs have technical deformations and burrs. Application: Do the point on the nail with transparent polish or special glue. Got the stresses by wet toothpick (or needle), put it on the drop and press it carefully. Then coat with the transparent polish or fixating liquid.

Dust, microsparkles

press it carefully. Then coat with the transparent polish or fixating liquid. Dust, microsparkles Picture #08

Picture #08

There are tiny sparkles used in make-up, famous for everybody. These sparkles make an absolutely unique effect depends on source of light, being depositing on the skin. In similar way it can be created holyday variant of nail-art. These are the same sparkles like in polishes but in dry form. However the major advantage of such sparkles is that you can change easy the density of it. Application: deposit the transparent polish on the nail, then pour the sparkling dust on it. Wait until the polish dries up and then whisk away unnecessary dust by soft brush. Another possibility to deposit the sparkles: drop a bit of glue (transparent polish) onto the palette put in it the necessary amount of sparkles with the help of brush, then mix and use received mass to the design of nails.

then mix and use received mass to the design of nails. Picture #09 By the way,

Picture #09

By the way, there is an interesting method of using sparkles for creating a mirror surface. You need in sparkles of good quality – a “grade” of sparkle should be homogeneous, with equal tiny circles or squares; sparkles in the form of powder or straw is unsuitable. Buying the sparkles press it to the end of the packet – the quality of surface is that you shall receive as a result. Then all is easy:

Prepare a surface of nail, then deposit the transparent polish on it and wait for drying up;

Put the second layer on 2-3 nails and wait for a moment when polish has almost dried up, i.e. not sticky already but soft yet;

Strew the sparkles on paper, put the finger on it and press the surface of nail to the sparkles, like rubbing sparkles into the nail;

whisk away unnecessary dust – you received a shining surface, almost a looking-glass;

coat with transparent polish.


Charming and thin metallic film also can be used in art of nail designing. Moreover, there are many kinds of foil, and the great variety of it could be found.

Type of foil

Detachable foil


Foil of different colors and tones, delivered in special packing


This material is deposited above the transparent polish or glue and shares on the nail surface by thin stick. You can lay down the foil with transparent polish: volume and brightness of shine will disappeared, but foil will be stuck on longer time.

Transferable foil

Plane foil

Foil stripes

l e f o i l P l a n e f o i l Foil

Picture #10

Sticking onto the nail with special glue. There are foil of different colors and patterns.

Usual foil from the confectionery packing.

There are made-up stripes of foil with adhesive backing. You can cut the stripes from plane foil, too. Also, there is a foil like a gold leaf – it should be stuck on glue and then covered with fixing liquid.

Garnishing with commodities

Lay down the glue on the part of nail you need, put the face side of the foil on the nail, press for some seconds and then remove the backing of the foil carefully.

It can be cut on sheets of different shape and size. Also, you can stamp various elements with the help of small drills grinned under the different angles, and the thick elastic sheet of resin; then different applications can be laid out on the nails. It is rather easy to find small elements from foil and plastic of different shapes- hearts, stars and so on.

Rolling up the foil into small balls, we will got piths of flowers.

Foil stripes are glued on fried polish, and on the transparent polish or glue if foil is plane.

You can make snaky patterns: bend the foil stripe at the right angle to and fro alternately. Bending stripes in different ways, you obtain a variety types of garnish.

in different ways, you obtain a variety types of garnish. Picture #11 Special blings used in

Picture #11

Special blings used in nail-art is called “bindi”. This is a plane decorating figurines made of commodities, if more precisely – made of gold. Silver bindi are not produced, and it is hurtfully. Assortment is not large – hearts, angels, umbrellas… It is rather standard set of elements.

But! If you really wish to wear a silver, buy the little silver earrings in the form of sprigs with the thickness lower then 5 mm (without leg). Cut the leg by pincers, smooth the surface with nail file (the first procedure takes about 3 min, the second – 5 min). Such newborn bindi used as usual golden ones. This element is rather simply to apply – just glue the bindi on the nail and fix them with several layers of transparent polish. It is better to use bindi only on one nail (middle finger nail) on both hands. Other fingers are decorated with abstract patterns; else it would be heavy to wear this jewelry. By the way, there are rings, sprigs, pendants made from commodities. Sometimes they put a gem into the pendants. The figurine of pendant for piercing may be similar to bindi figurine There are golden artificial nails, too. Such nail is glued as usual tip from plastic, but it is impossible to file it. Usually the golden nail has a chainlet with ring on the other end of it. This construction is not only additional garnish but also belay against the losing of nail (it costs more then $20). But unfortunately thing of this kind is hardly to find in shops. Perhaps, it would be easier and reliably to order the golden nail to jeweler (by virtue of different shapes of nails), the main thing is to explain your wishes closely and in depth. Don’t forget about precise size and alloy of metal, it is influence on the final price.


alloy of metal, it is influence on the final price. Tattoo Picture #12 Tattoo-exactly! Don’t be

Picture #12

Tattoo-exactly! Don’t be afraid - tattoo are also could help you in nail-art. It turned out that tattoo may be a center of beauty nails composition. Of course if everything has done competently and with proper qualification. During creating the unique composition it should be noted that tattoo on hands is rather extravagant and very attractive addition to the nail-art. It is not necessary to make the tattoo forever, more properly, it is unacceptable to make the permanent tattoo on the hand, because of very thin skin on it. A temporary tattoo brings you much more pleasure. Permanent tattoo is when with very thin and short needle like syringe special inks are entered under the upper layer of your epidermis. One shot is one point. Tattoo vehicle works rapidly, so you feel the burning only. Picture can be multicoloured with any colour you want to be deposited in. However it should be appreciated that one could see badly the light color on light skin and vice versa. Generally speaking, tattoo is a work of high art, for this reason if you fix to do it, you must find the cordon bleu at all hazards. Define exactly what do you want to be imaging on your

skin; it is better to have a sketch about. Else ask the master obligatory first to paint the sketch on the paper entirely, do not agree with “well, it would be something like that…” After the coating your skin with tattoo one gives you about week. During that time all wounds would healed, and all the tattoo will coated with usual wound crust. You must not decorticate it! When the crust fall of itself, you would see your permanent tattoo looking less brightly then fresh one. Temporary tattoo makes exactly like permanent, but natural dyes used for in spite of ink. Your body will resolve natural dyes after about a half of a year, the image will disappear, consequently Biotattoo – makes by henna not put under the skin, just dyes the upper layer of it. Such tattoo lives about a month. The colour of henna tattoo is russet of different depth of colour. This kind of tattoo could be performed all by yourself as opposite to two other kind mentioned above. Algorithm is simple:

it is necessary to degrease the skin;

rub the eucalyptus oil in the skin – this elongate the time the henna drying up;

press the picture on the skin from pocket; thickness of layer should be about 2-3 mm – the more thick the layer the more depth the picture colour. Picture making by cliché or by hand;

during the mass will drying up, every 30 minutes you should wet the picture by lemon juice or citric acid; mass lies on skin during 2 hours then should be removed. Picture shouldn’t be wetting during next day;

Originally the tattoo is hazel, after day it will darkle

To get a compound for pointing the next actions should be done:

Make a strong brew (the stronger the brew, the darker tattoo);

½ cup of brew mix with juice of ½ lemon and 2 table-spoon of sugar;

Solve the henna with this compound up to the condition of viscous paste;

Compound infusing not less than 15 min;

Put the past in the drawing tube (such compound could be kept in ice-box till 2 days);

Tattoo with waterproof soft-tip pens is yet easier to make. Such soft-tip pens could be shopped in special art-salons. They paint with waterproof soft-tip pens on defatted (with a web wetted in removal liquid) skin. Tattoo will stand till 2 days, that’s enough for party. In the absence of waterproof soft-tip pen you can use a usual jelly pen or acryl colours. But in that case the picture climbs down after the first hand washing. There are special adhesive label for tattoo – one can glue ready-made paints on transparent substrate; they stand not long but is easy to glue. It should be note that one universal recipe exists: any tattoo is interesting to use as addition to nail-art. For example, it would be a mirroring of tattoo, when the pattern on nails is equal to some elements of tattoo picture, or vice versa; the major thing is not to overdo it.

Other accessories

As far as there are great many additional elements of design, we ask you to put your attention on the most basic moments should be noted during planning your unique image. It should be noted that list of materials displayed below is not limiting – every master can add his own findings, ideas and discoveries, that undoubtedly marks him and his clients against the dull citizens

Type of accessories

Color stripes



Color bands with stick substrate of






different; stripes of different colors











within the bounds of nail; also is





important not to allow ends of


bonds taught the skin.



thick. bonds taught the skin. L a c e s Stickers Picture #13 It is finer

Picture #13

It is finer than usual one. It varies in plaiting and colors. One of the lace types is usual net with very small cells.

Varies in subject and ways to deposit it. Subjects are very

different, but rather homogeneous.


little skull or coffin is hardly to find. But however many different patterns of stickers are, the exclusive work of master is better. Stickers are good if you have not enough time to make a masterpiece, but you need to make something. Although there are very beautiful stickers splendid looking if take the task.

Hearts, flowers, leaflets

There are silvery and golden flakes. There are stickers already containinf strass and sparkles.

Stickers can be as whole picture as different imitations, for example of piece of net, fabric, leather, and you should cut it and glue to the place you wish.

Plumage Plumages apply on rare occasions for being inconvenient detail of design. Use in nail-art in the case of creating festive design. There are special plumage on sale – big and middle-sized, of different colors imitating coloring of exotic birds. Also it is possible to use a self- coloured plumage is on sale in gift shops. Another good idea – pull several feathers from pillow or draw on them from hen. Feathers of quails, keets, parrots, nightingales and another birds with not large and hard feathers are appropriate for nail-art.

Coloured sand

hard feathers are appropriate for nail-art. Coloured sand Picture #14 These are the little spherical grains,

Picture #14

These are the little spherical grains, often of perlaceous, silvery or golden colour. Also there are grains of green and blue tones

Use entirely and piecewise. Cut of different patterns and stick with transparent polish or glue.

Stickers are deposits differently. Stickers with stick substrate are detached from substrate and glued. Stickers is necessary to wet with water, and wait for some minutes. Accurately tie up one sticker (with external side towards the nail), put the sticker on the nail and press for some minutes.

One or two feathers fix on nail with glue or transparent polish. The main part of feather will hang out from the end of nail. It is better to decorate only one nail with feather, while others would be decorated with several elements. It would be interesting to use a feather as bird’s tail, and paint the bird itself on the nail.

Thin brush (needle, toothpick) dip in

a wet sponge, then hound down

some grains and put them on the nail with glue or transparent polish.

It is necessary to cover the sands

with two or three layers of fixing liquid or transparent polish, because the sands are an outstanding part of design and feel an increased load.

Picture #15 N a t u r a l m a t e r i

Picture #15

Natural materials

Dried plants, their seeds and flowers serve as natural materials. The poppy seed is useful in nail-art. Also, you can use the very straw we were doing clip-art on the work lessons and in the summer camps.


There are special fibers for nail-art. They are of different materials, colours and twisting. Also it is possible to use lurex fibers for embroidery.

Corrective coverstick

It necessary for cosmeticizing the mistakes (stick is sodden with polish remover)

Polish remover

Don’t buy the polish remover containing acetone. It dries nail and as a result a nail brittleness appears.

Acryl, gel

Acryl and gel initially were meant to ramp up the nails, but nail-art steps over it and make them the raw materials for its masterpieces. Acryl is self-hardening viscous mass, different details of volume nail design could be made of.

Gel is the mass solidifying in the presence of UV-radiation, it is more fluid than acryl, therefore it is more complex to sculpture something volume; but it is possible to make a paint on plane surface which, after solidifying, could be deposited regardless the position of the nail surface.

You can draw on petals from dried flowers. In the gift shops and shops for designers you can find dried and coloured flowers. For example, little twigs of dill, dried and coloured, would be looked well in the swim with strasses. Seeds of natural or coloured type glue on nail in the shape of flowers or abstractive picture. To this effect the plane seeds such as caseweed, sweet pepper, dill give the best fit.

Fibers stick with glue or transparent polish. It is important during sticking that fiber is not touching cuticle and should be almost nearly the end of nail. Fibers are covered with transparent polish or fixative solvent. Fibers could be aligned in line, as net, as twisting figures, as triangles or quadrates.

Instead of it a piece of canvas sodden with polish remover could be used.


Neither masterpiece could be made without careful choosing of instruments, such unique instruments of production the odd parts could be turned to the oeuvre. It is funny to know that in nail-art there are not special instruments, all of the, are well known for every person. It’s another matter how to choose and apply them – and we would like to tell you about it.

Needle and toothpick

These are two instruments of dual purpose. It should be note that you can prick with needle, therefore it must be clean, rusty in no case, and obtained from reliable source – it is better to buy it as a part of usual set of sewing needles it yourself. It ought to clean the needle with spirit and be careful when operated at – after all, you can get hurt with it. By the way the best needle for nail-art is sufficiently thin, of middle length (but its size must be selected individually), you should catch it quickly and handily – so as needle not to slide from your hand In the case of toothpick it is easier – because of its brittleness buy a small jar of it, it’ll come in handy. It is desirable the toothpicks be edged and of middle length. By the way, needle or toothpick is easy to replace with thin short brush. In the nail-art these instruments are used in the “drops mixture” technique. Description of this technics is rather easy – put a thick layer of polish of any self-toned color (neutral is better- white, black, transparent), the layer should be thick but polish must not drop or brace up in the shape of clot on the end. After this, put several drops in the same place, but of contrast colored polish (or several polishes with different colors), slightly mix, and then cover with transparent polish. Some pieces of advice: it is better to take a colours of close tones, and a good idea to add the sparkles of close tones. For example:

Blue, light blue, silvery (black, white);

Red, pink, silvery;

Yellow, green;

Yellow, blue;

Lilaceous, blue.

It is better to mix in the same way – in the sole direction, or in zigzag, curl, spiral, net, or parallel

ways. But however much you were trying, the every nail would have unique pattern – it is disadvantage and originality.

Gel pen

The question is usual gel pen is written in school, in office. It should be note that using of this instrument is universal way to creating paints on your nails. Advantages are evidently – gel pen always paint thin, accurate and homogeneous lines, therefore as a result you have precise picture is able to remove easy. But there are disadvantages, also – relatively narrow range of colours, it is hardly to paint on the right hand (on the left hand if you are lefty). However, all of these troubles are solvable. Some pieces of advice:

- cover a nail with two layers of polish; it should not stick and should not be soft, but also should not dry up;

- take a gel pen and draw on nail; if at first it is not draw, then pass several times on the same


- if you draw a complex paint, it is better to draw it on the one nail only, and other nails decorate with elements of this paint;

- finisher – cover the nail with transparent polish unless and until the paint will dried up, especially if colour of gel pen is metallic.


Brushes are well-known for everybody. They are used in nail-art for creating fine drawings, and also for draftsmanship of several details. Painting with brush is considered to be more professional than with gel pen – the nature of strokes is more valued. Also it should be note that brush painting requires some skills will come in time. At first it is better to plasticize on common tips (an artificial nails). There is wide range of brush shapes. The main types of them are listed below.


Description, features


Has not a fluff. Has a globule in the end, like ball-point pen. This brush one can dip in polish and make a dots or commas. Also, semidried drop one can smear out, dent.


Brush is like fan. Put 2-3 drops of different polishes on the palette, take all of them with one move, thus every drop lies separately without interfusing. Passing this brush along the nail results to blotchiness intersecting each other. Wave lines could be applied. This brush is good for background.


Brush about 20-30 mm length and 1-2 mm width. Very comfortable for drawing strait and slightly waved lines. Short hairline is used for flourish. It is necessary to hold this brush upright.


Brush about 4 mm width. It is used for executing the patterns like Gzhel when 2-3 colours of polish one can take simultaneously.


Brush like plane brush but with corner cut off. It is comfortable for different flowers drawing.


With sharp edge for covering surfaces and for sparkles.

Thin, middle

edge for covering surfaces and for sparkles. Thin, middle Picture #15 Thin, short Piercing About 5-8

Picture #15

Thin, short


About 5-8 mm length and 1-2 width. The most needful and “working” brush. Draw dots, lines, curves and so on;

Brush about 2-4 mm length and 0,5-1 mm width needs for very small details. It is hardly to work with it, and good skills are required.

A lust for piercing different, even intimate pieces of own body leads to the piercing of nails.

Even there is opinion expressed in catchword “Nail Piercing is painless!” Sure, there are no sensory endings on horny part! But nail piercing is nondurable – nails could break and even crumb, therefore you should ask yourself “Is it necessary for me?” at very first, instead of get a purse. Piercing is small eyelet in the skin of man through different furnishings are put in. Professional nail piercing is making by special hand-held drill. Borer is thrust from wrong side of nail, while nail itself put on something hard. Drill the eyelet pressing not heavily but touching it tight. To drill a natural nail is longer then artificial one cause of different density and imperfect surface of natural nail. On the other end of hand-held drill is special spanner for screwing a nut of furnishing like sprigs. Also electrical drill exist, one must use it carefully, because eyelet quickly bored. Turn aside for a moment- and nail is wholly bad. You can make an accurate small eyelet without drill using candent needle. Procedure is not pleasure but painless – thick needle is necessary to hold upon the flame of candle and press the nail from wrong side with it right here. Be careful from being burned; besides one must predetermine the place of eyelet, probably marking this place with dot. Procedure is rather easy:

- lean an elbow on table;

- the better to aim for a long time then muff a shot;

- smell of singeing effloresces through some minutes;

- don’t underlay your own finger under the nail you piercing – needle is hardly to hold in such case, you will hurt yourself;

- the nail itself is better to keep on suspension, while hand supported on the table;

- eyelet should not be made near end of nail – will breaking.

Put a different furnishing in resulting eyelet: metallic pendants, chainlets, and sprigs. You can

buy all it in nail-art shops, salons, Internet, and also adopt usual small pendants and rings. Latter pressed with forceps or pliers. Also you can stitch the eyelets with fibers like embroidery. Ends

of fibers could be fluffed and glued on whole nail.

Nail files

It are the individual instrument of direct-action. There are diamond, ruby, ceramic, sapphirine, or made from flint-paper using for burnishing. The best of all is using the ceramic 2-3-sided nail file, the other (except of flint-paper) spoil the nails very much. One side of nail file is used for primary sawing the nail and giving to it a desired shape; thinner file is used for burnishing the edges. We recommend you always keep it about yourself Also it is necessary to distinguish the nail fails for natural nails and tips – for natural nails fails with less abrasive power and more soft. And an invention of yesterday is metallic nail fails with concaved cells. They are not stratify the nail plate (as against diamond one). Action - nail hits in concave cells, the edges of which cut undue We recommend to buy exactly ceramic nail files, in this case selection criteria is abrasive power. It should be fail with middle abrasive power, because strong abrasive power needs for tips while small abrasive power is necessary for burnishing. If you wish to buy really good nail fail, put your attention on special shops of your city. Such fails cost about $10, but will serve you for 3-4 year in usual regime. For comparison: in usual shop nail fail costs about $1-5 and serves you for half a year, after that sputter is clogged or buff away. Naturally you should be attentive and mark what fail is match for you and would pleased you.


It is a special device is used for degreasing nails and also for light burnishing. Whereas block removes an upper layer of nail, it is not recommended to use it often – take a pity in your nails.

Block in point of fact is parallelepiped covered with fabric like soft flint-paper. It is comfortable for bearing in hand. Thanks to its elasticity it covers a nail surface entirely during burnishing.

You can use a block if you need to degreasing nails, to remove asperities and scales, and cuticle.

It is on sale in special shops for hairdressers or in manicure salons (price: about $10).

Metallic curette

or in manicu re salons (price: about $10). Metallic curette Picture #16 In spite of strange

Picture #16

In spite of strange name (also “horsy hoof” exist) it is an instrument for shifting the cuticle (a horny skin around the nail). These instruments must be used with increased carefulness and after the cuticle will be softened, without jerks, tight and accurately. It should be noted that Hoof is unprofessional instrument like disposable plates. If you would like to get down to work, only the curette should be used/

It is better to buy a metallic curette of right shape- spatula with soft, well-rounded edges of 1-1,5

mm thickness, of width a narrower than nail-bed of your little finger and convex matching the

shape of nail; the end of curette should be a half of circle. This instrument must be chosen carefully, because otherwise it hurts nails and cuticle. Highlights are well-rounded, facility, and a possibility to press it closely to the nail-bed taking into account the shape of nail. It is recommended to treat with antiseptic during working (with spirit or polish remover). Such instruments can be a part of manicure sets, but buying a set is senseless, because almost all instruments should be thrown away at first go if you do not to hurt your nails. The odds are that you’ll find all you necessary in special shops, shops for hairdressers, outlets, and manicure salons.

The price varies very much, because the instrument can be of deals but appropriate, or branded -

$1-20. Generally, who search who find :) And also you can replace this instrument with your

own nail if it is of oval shape. Naturally such variant is acceptable when you shifting your own


Cuticle softener

Pro forma it is not the instrument because it is whitish jelled liquid in jar looking as polish and containing a brush. However we decide to place this substance in the “Instruments” section – it prepares the cuticle to the removing and cleaning the nail. One can put the liquid itself on the cuticle and wait for a 1-2 minutes, the horny part became much softener and it is possible now to remove it or replace it. Before the replacing or removing cuticle delete with wool remains of cuticle softener – by the way, the same effect gives soapy water. But soapy water affects more slowly and can dry the skin. Furthermore the cuticle softener is more compact. You can buy a cuticule softener in different places including store of manicure devices. But instead of cuticle softener in error you can buy a cuticle exfoliator. The latter is another sample but of the same target: it removes the cuticle solving it. Costs $3-7. After applying the cuticle softener or cuticle exfoliator it is necessary to wash the hands with water.


it is necessary to wash the hands with water. Nippers Picture #17 Special devise cutting the

Picture #17

Special devise cutting the cuticle should be sharp and match to your nails. Once again call you, dear reader, to be a close choosing an instrument – if you decide to remove the cuticle yourself, we recommend you not to use any mini-scissors “made special for cuticle removing” bought as a part of “super sets”. In spite of our wide experience we still have not seen good or even normal sets especially for manicure. Also the nippers made from china is not appropriate-the have another shape. In the ideal case the length of the edge must suit for your nails – from 7 to 12 mm – for your safety it is better to buy the nippers in the shop of company specialized in producing the instruments for manicure. We try to put your attention on it, because if one company produces knifes and wish to enlarge the assortment with nippers for manicure, such nippers are not appropriate instruments. The problem is that such company produces something not knowing the specifity of it.

Picture #18 And one more notes: don’t mixed up a nippers for manicures and nippers

Picture #18

And one more notes: don’t mixed up a nippers for manicures and nippers for pedicure – they are differs in shape and size of edges. It is better to buy a nippers with spring (a professional one costs about $15-30).

Other instruments

Cliché are used in French manicure, when you use an air brush, and also for creating perfectly accurate pictures. There are cliché in the sets for nail-art, also you can buy it, but you can make it yourself with transparent adhesive tape. Using the scotch it is necessary that surface the scotch is going to glue should be dried up. The gun - air brush is aimed for spattering the polish. With air brush you can make a very thin lines or sputtering. It is interesting to work with template-you can obtain smooth transitions from one colour to another. Oil for nails – serves for moisturizing and protects your nails. Antiseptic – disinfects, respectively.

Chapter IV. Practical course «eight steps toward the perfection»

Our second part is purely practical. It will be only examples here and we'll see all the process of creation of the manicure and examine complicated way from appearing of idea to its realization. Also it should be taken into consideration that all recommendations and descriptions are applicable to real life, this data can and must be used as a basis for creation of similar compositions. And don't be afraid to experiment cause it is impossible for anything bad to happen with you. We have checked everything and it is "no mine". We have considered why should it be exactly eight steps and not for example five or nine? We have lost a lot of time and thoroughly weighed all necessary operations which are crucial for the creation of good nail-art. To our amazement it turned out that there are only eight steps no more no less. All actions which are copying each other we have collected in similar paragraphs, so you can easily find very distinct information about what is what. Examples were chosen in such a way as to cover maximal amount of ideas for nail-art, so it is not necessary that master's degree will rise from first to fourth example.

Foundations of composition

Composition it is general completeness, symmetry and appropriate arrangement of pictures on yours nails. By the way from the beginning you should take into account shape of nail where composition will be made. Look at your hands carefully and you will understand that practically nails are just small pieces of paper for us where we will create. Spacing of background will depend on the shape of the nails, except the cases when background is not divided by coloured scope. If background is not divided to zones by colour then it is divided by the same principle only conditionally. So axes appears which are forming backbone, foundation which is used for creation of composition itself. So, in first variant when background is divided on different colours, axes are formed by scopes of colours, and in the second variant axes are drawn by our imagination. For more vivid illustrating we put a table of breakdown of backgrounds matching several shape of nails. It is open-ended variant, probably, you’ll find the interesting plans yourself, but this table is appropriate as basic variant. Our “breakdowns” generally construct according the principles of repetition the form of free end or on the contrast to it. In such way basing on position of axes you can create symmetrical or asymmetrical composition. When creates an asymmetrical composition you should remember that whatever different two part of composition were, the first and the second parts must balance each other visually.

Picture #19 Let’s discuss the concrete disposition of basic axes on the nails: Case №

Picture #19

Let’s discuss the concrete disposition of basic axes on the nails:

Case 1. Axis is centrally and vertical. It is the easiest case – you need to discharge symmetrical/asymmetrical composition and draw it on the nails according the certain shape. For example, if choose an Oval (b) and Square (d) shape, it is possible to make a composition equal all along the axis. If creating a composition using the Mucronate (a) or Almond-shaped (c), than in the nail-bed should be more elements when at the free end. Case 2. Axis is centrally and horizontal. This variant is more complex. For example, with b and d shapes one can make a symmetrical composition. But you should remember about relative vertical axis. Note that with a and c shapes symmetrical composition will be most likely unsuccessful. And horizontal compositions use quite rarely. Case 3. Axis is vertical on 1/3. This case is appropriate to b and d shapes. Case 4. Axis is horizontal on 1/3. This case is also appropriate to b and d shapes.

d shapes. Case № 4. Axis is horizontal on 1/3. This case is also appropriate to

Picture #20

You can make some net from the axes, too – for example, two horizontal and two vertical. In the cross-points the dots run could also be centers of composition, symmetrical or asymmetrical. The composition itself is a set of appropriate patterns/elements and pauses, which are strung harmonically around axes and axial points. Such elements are stresses (little circles), bands (stripes), cut foil (hearts, stars), coloured sand (stalks, petals, lines are laid) and so on. Or from the drew elements - points, commas, stripes – you can draw them with water-solved colours yourself. While compounding the pattern the pauses, i.e. empty places, are also used besides elements listed above. Pauses are necessary for composition not be overloaded, and the second target is that you should be able to differ a central part and a framing of picture. Certainle there are the compositions without such pauses – in that case the picture should be a continuous pattern, as if the patterned textile without beginning and end, without central pattern was stretched onto the nails.

Creating composition you should remember constantly about balance and equilibrium. The whole nail should be filled evenly and balanced with respect to the middle. Another features are existing:

The big object is heavier visually than small one;

The dark object is heavier than light one;

Object with dense structure is heavier than object with rarefied one (for example, net with small cells looked heavier than one with big cells if both of it are from equal fibers);

Bright colour is heavier than dull one (if there is something dark or bright, small, dense in one corner, than the rest of place should be filled with light rarefied elements, or pauses as variant, i.e. with background, simply);

Pauses has their own visual volume and weight, too – therefore they should be appropriate size to be of suitable “weight.”

Concluding it should be noted that you have a five nails on one hand and five on another one, and not one at all. Therefore creating the composition you should take into account that image will be multiply 5 times, and when you bring the hands to each other- to 10 times. If it seems rather motley for you, there are several ways to correct it: discharge the composition; leave the composition the same but on one nail only, while others decorate with separate elements. The main nails are usually of middle or of fourth fingers. As the matter of fact, if composition is rather complex, for example with plumage or volume nail-art, than such composition should be made on one nail only, while others leave without any decoration at all. To obtain the perfect composition sometimes it is necessary to add just a little: a point, a line. Also you should remember that the nail-bed and the edge of the nail are not equal: the nail-bed is apprehended as beginning, and the edge of nail plate – as the end. Probably there are some not quite clear places in the descriptions now, but don’t worry abut it – during the work all things will take the proper place. Practice is the main thing. So, you may to start your works!

The First Step: Source of Ideas.

To take a ready decision and create upon a pattern is usual way for the beginner master or for situation when it is necessary to make quickly a set of standard decisions. It is possible when you work at beauty salon and there is a stream of clients. But if we tell about exclusive, selected nail- art –it is necessary to create the composition from the blank page, all the more it is interesting. Let your style to be an exclusively yours – inimitable, airy, elegant and unique. Do not try to repeat already studied ways – the better is to go on your own road, you should be unique as snowflake.

Look closely to the world around us – there are hundreds of ideas for nail-art in every place you are looking at. The sources can be rather unusual: wallpapers, the pattern of fabric, nature objects, dyeing of insects, unexpectedly photos, the decorating of buildings, and even the sweet wrapper! These elements can accelerate you in right way the result of which is an insight. By the way, it is a good idea to use ready patterns in nail-art. Take the magazine with many pictures, look closely to it – probably something would be pleasure to you. Let it be entirely opposite the format of nail-art, the main thing is to understand what exactly you like in this picture- colour, shape, line, ripple, or colours play or the picture as it. Take it and formulate in miniature on nail. Do several probes. If you feel the general concept turns out to be not rather good, try to catch the essence of matters once more. If it is too complex for you, simplify the ornament, make it capable to reproduce. The element you have chosen should be clear, without little details, because it would be impossible to draw it on the small surface of the nail. Practicing you will fell almost excitement - to create a beautiful composition on your nails from nothing, from light, hardly perceptible image. Near that place the art is. It should be noted that every example we give is unique itself not only by skillfulness and bright designing ideas, but also by positioning - every example is aimed to illustrate several method of nail-art.

example is aimed to illust rate several method of nail-art. Picture #21 Example 1 "China clouds".

Picture #21

Example 1 "China clouds". The idea appeared when author have been looking on the balls for hand massage. The element is stylized cloud.

when author have been looking on the balls for hand massage. The element is stylized cloud.

Picture #22

Example 2 "Russian emeralds". This example was created without starting idea, at random, but in the presence of strong wishes to experiment with foil.

in the presence of strong wishes to experiment with foil. Picture #23 Example 3 «Josephine». Graphic

Picture #23

Example 3 «Josephine». Graphic path of flourish is like a romantic mood from old times. For example net of fibers resembles a net on the wear of princess from fairy-tale.

resembles a net on the wear of princess from fairy-tale. Picture #24 Example 4 "Pastures of

Picture #24

Example 4 "Pastures of Heaven". This idea appeared after the buying the set of stickers – the idea of translucence like in aquarelle was seemed very pleasure. In this case we’ll try to make an aquarelle effect using acryl. Soft, violet and purple flowers on the background of ginger and marsh-green leafs create the impression of cosiness and pleasure of summer evening.

The Second Step: Arrangement & Composition

Before you start working with nails, it would be better to depict your future work on paper. We tell this advice is unrepugnant to reason. Sometimes we wish to create something beautiful we almost see in our mind! But – in the very time of working, without clear view of eventual result, shine is dulling, lines bleeding and, in the end, and hands pull to the polish remover jar. Therefore, first draw your dream – on a first approximation, rough, rugged somewhere, but preliminary draft should exist. The main is to catch the idea.

Primarily all seems to be not very beautiful – but process can be automated. If you really planned to be concerned with nail-art, try to depict an ordinary contour of standard nail in graphics editor with 3-4-timed zoom. After that, copy and paste it at the page as much as possible. Bingo! – we have enough semis for creative work. We often to be asked about what sort of colors are the best for painting – pencil, markers, or even brushes? The most reasonable advice is the mono-colored and sharp. Pencil, thin jelled pen, or ball-point pen are in accordance with such definition. The explanation is easy – thickened lines will intermix, and it is impossible to distinguish too many small details without magnifier on the small surface, therefore only middle-sized details are recommended. This is a sketch. For the fuller appreciation you can draw the sketch in colors. No matter what materials you involve for it. The main thing is to reflect your idea and adumbrate what is waiting for your nails.

your idea and adumbrate what is waiting for your nails. Picture #25 Picture #26 Example №

Picture #25

and adumbrate what is waiting for your nails. Picture #25 Picture #26 Example № 1 –

Picture #26

Example 1 – The element “cloudlet” depicted on the green background only looks not very interesting and gullish. To make more interesting composition, choose the background and thereupon put the cloudlet in the centre and underline with golden welt along background boundary. Central asymmetrical composition obtained – it is very stylish; it can be done without special skills. Only you should have a handy steadiness – although it will came in the course of time.

Picture #27 Picture #28 Example № 2 – Sharp nail was zoned with the back

Picture #27

Picture #27 Picture #28 Example № 2 – Sharp nail was zoned with the back ground

Picture #28

Example 2 – Sharp nail was zoned with the background scheme. At the centre we used circlets, lozenge (strasses) and lines (inlaid with sand). Lozenge is placed in the middle as the center of composition and the largest element. On the top it is equilibrated with three stresses – more little but taking a larger surface together (the area of the nail is larger at the top of the nail), and with one strass at the down (area near the bed of nail is smaller). And to make the composition much more logical, with more details and more chic, the lane of sand is laid between the strasses. The border between background zones of different colors also inlaid with sand, therefore the feeling of perfection of work is creating. We obtain a central symmetrical composition.

the feeling of perfection of work is creating. We obtain a central symmetrical composition. Picture #29

Picture #29

Picture #30 Example № 3 – Neutral background is visually zoned with silver stripes –

Picture #30

Example 3 – Neutral background is visually zoned with silver stripes – one central and two backside. Turn your attention to the fact that side zones are covered with net – thus fully completed. At the same time net requires the framework, net mustn’t finish with nothing- it is charmless, therefore we have bounded our net with silver stripes. Inside the middle stripe is simple ornament is not filled it completely, for fear of overloading the nail otherwise. Pauses in picture are necessary, you should remember about it.

in picture are necessary, you should remember about it. Picture #31 Picture #32 Example № 4

Picture #31

are necessary, you should remember about it. Picture #31 Picture #32 Example № 4 – Choose

Picture #32

Example 4 – Choose a neutral background. The surface itself covered with image evenly, and colour spots throughout the nail are of about equal tone and colour intensity. It is reputed to be a “harmonious randomness” - different compounds of flowers and leafs on every nail, but all nails are hold in equal style. The main condition is to place the flowers near the center with separate flower-buds on the edges. Remaining place is covered with large and small leafs – it is necessary to create the illusion of negligence, therefore not to thrash out the composition too long. Also it is necessary to keep the proportional ratio between flowers and greenery 1:1 by volume though approximately.

The Third Step: Training

“An attempt is no sin - if you try you may win” said the proverb. Nevertheless, trying to envelop the immense we just got a case when our wishes differ from our possibilities. For sharp line, keen eyesight and handy steadiness training is required – training works you just throw out later, but they are necessary to perfect some possibilities, fine motor skills of hand, and the sense of art. You can training on tips (artificial nail) or on the paper. If you are not sure in successful finishing of your work you can just training following our instructions. Fulfilling exercise you should have almost all of the conditions you are going to face with during your real work. For example, drawing with jelled pen you should remember that nail is not plane as paper and your pen would slide down. Or such fact as nail plate is rather small – depicting the element on the paper first designate the nail’s borders and then draw inside that contour.

Example 1 – Creating this work it would be better first to training your hand in depicting the “cloudlet” element with jelled pen, and also to draw straight lines on the tips. Don’t strain your hand, don’t press the pen too much. Pass the pen fast but not harsh. Jelled-pen-picture is easy to remove with cotton wool wetted with water (don’t erase picture with your finger, the jell ink is hard to removw from skin). Example 2 – In this work put your attention to inlaying the sand. It task is laborious, but the result is rather beautiful. It is necessary to watch about every grit is not to fall down from the line. Example 3 – Here it is worth to put your attention on careful draughtsmanship of the paint with sparkles and transparent polish. You need a thin short brush, transparent polish and sparkles. Drop the polish onto the non-absorbing surface; add the sparkles with brush and mix. Put this mass with the brush – it should be like a little drop of mixture on the tip of brush which we are laying down in the center of future flourish. In such a way hold a brush under the right angle to the surface of tips or paper, pull the drop from the center and run the brush along the trajectory of the flourish. You can training in inlaying the silver fiber in net way, if you wish. Example 4 – It would be good for you to training in effect of aquarelle creating. And get to know the acrylic colors if you have not working with them yet. Try to mix colors and see what tones are obtaining. By the way, it is better to training on the tips – you ca easy throw them out, while your own nails are hard to cleaning from. Also, you should training in thin lines and coloured spots with brush. To paint something small, some skill are required, but following our instructions it is rather simple to learn it.

The Fourth Step: Selecting Materials and Instruments.

Features of instruments were considered in the chapter I. Here we put your attention on the fact that there are the instruments and there is a Set. Exactly, with capital letter. Every master should have his own instruments the hands have taken a fancy to. These instruments should be studied very closely, its’ features could be used in creating your own style, your own nail-art. We quite agree that such instruments you can select in the meaningful period of time, individually and from different sets, because standard construction are often not of the best quality.

Example 1 – You need in Chameleon polish (it changes color depending on the initial angle of light beam), transparent narrow scotch, black polish, 2 jelled pen – black and gold metallic.

Scotch and black polish can be replaced with thin brush and black acrylic colour. Also you need a transparent polish, lacquer base, fixing liquid and a set for preparing the nails to nail-art, too. Example 2 – The set of necessary materials are: transferable foil (or silvery polish, or sulvery acrylic color and thin brush, or silver sparkles of good quality), pearl sand (broth), small round strasses and squared strasses of middle size, chameleon polish (or acrylic metallic colour of green tone and thin brush) Also you need a transparent polish, lacquer base, fixing liquid and a set for preparing the nails to nail-art, too. Example 3 – You need in: transparent polish, cream-colored polish, silvery sparkles, silvery self-sticking stripes of foil (or cut by yourself from usual foil), silvery fiber; mini-scissors, thin short brush, and a set for preparing the nails to nail-art, too. Example 4 – The further set of instruments and materials are required: transparent polish, light-crème-colored polish, colored acryl – crimson, violet, blue, yellow, red, white, black. Brush should be thin and short, more desirable from kolinsky of good quality, or artificial. It is necessary the hairlets aligned one to another, without any curls, and the end of brush smoothly comes to naught. Also water and the jar for water need, and white saucer or dense paper as a palette.

The Fifth Step: Preparing Nail to the Work.

In spite of the kind of manicure you are going to make up, there is a set of plain rules enabling to prepare the claws to the process. Don’t ignore these advice entirely, they have been checked hundreds of times and can be executed on the fly. At first, it is necessary to scrub nails – just wash your hands with soap, then take clean soft tissue and pass the tip of tissue under the nails tightly. The main is the skin under your nails should be softed with water and soap. Secondly, shape your nails as necessary:

Four-square – has an accurate square-cut angles without rounding; sade faces of nail is parallel to each other;

Oval – roundish line of free end (smile) repeats the cuticle line like in mirror;

Almond-shaped – has not any angles, the roundish of free edge expressed stronger then cuticle line and has a small greatly smoothed bevel;

Sharp – has one sharp edge

After that remove excessive part of nail with sawing (giving a desirable shape) and treat with finely grained file the edges become plain. By the way, as a check-on, just now pass with finger- pad seesaw and fell the edge of nail – how is it came? Remember that sawing is mechanical way to prophylaxis the flaking nails. Thirdly, inspect the ungual peel – you decide remove it or not yourself only. In principle it is rather complicated and even dangerous operating. It is better to confide it to the specialists. Modern offering in nail service is uncropped manicure, when the cuticle is not cut at all. But this kind of manicure doesn’t suit for everyone, unfortunately. If the excrescence of cuticle is considerable or cuticle is damaged it would be better to remove cuticle. One of the frequent mistakes leading to the pickle of cuticle is self-consistent and illiterate removing of cuticle. It cut at all and very often that leads to the reddening of skinny roller and accelerated growth of cuticle. A sort of race obtained: you cut the cuticle, and your organism trying to restore it faster and faster. If you have fallen into the trap of this case- stop to cut the cuticle and consult with professionally. In the absence of master it is necessary to cream or special oil for cuticle, cut agnail only and as far as possible shift the cuticle if it would not lead to the hurting of nail’s plate .

To shift the peel it is necessary to soften it – there are special means named “cuticle softeners”. Sgift the cuticle with special metallic spatula, with stick made from rosewood or with “horsy hoof” made from resin. Procedure is easy:

Put the cuticle softener on the skin around the nail, onto 5 fingers;

Put it on the last; then take the first and tightly but very carefully shift the cuticle by curette;

If it is not soft enough, put some cuticle softener additionally and wait for some time;

See after your sensation – it mustn’t be any sense of pain;

After shifting the peel remove scraps of cuticle softener with cotton wool and wash your hands.

Degrease the nail with polish remover and, do not touching the nail surface with fingers, cover the degreased nail with transparent polish (lacquer base). NB: making the nail-art on the artificial nails you should remove earlier polish from them, saw them shaping if necessary and only after that put a layer of transparent polish or lacquer base

Example 1 – Give the nail oval or four-squared shape. Example 2 – Give the nail a sharp shape. Example 3 – Give the nail an oval shape. Example 4 – As a result, the shape of nails is oval or four-squared.

The Sixth Step: Creating Background

This is one of significant part of nail-art – just for that we try to describe this process in greater details – we believe that would solve most of the questions. The name of the game is patience and, if something is wrong – take breath, contemplate about worries, and – repeat once more.

Example 1 – First layer is always transparent polish or lacquer base. Second layer is - a chameleon polish of green color. It is necessary the polish have dried up entirely and become hard. There are several ways to create a background:

Firstly, with scotch and black polish. Take a transparent scotch, notch out 3 rectangles: for thumb, for middle and ring fingers, and for little one. Stick the scotch in the middle of the nail in such a way that empty fields remain on the periphery of nail (and on the free end too). Paint out with black polish – it should be dense to cover the nail from first attempt. After the black polish dry up, remove the scotch. Secondly, with black acrylic color (water-soluble dye) and thin not long brush (01,00). We just paint out the pieces around future rectangle with acrylic. To make it accurate you should first training on the paper and tips. Acrylic dye lies as usual color, creating a film after drying; it is necessary to cover acrylic layer with transparent polish to fix it. Thirdly, with stencil and aerograph (certainly if you have it). Put a piece of scotch on the nail as in first variant, then spray the color with dense jet trying not to paint out the skin around the nail.

Example 2 – First layer is transparent polish (lacquer base). Then several variants of creating glossy surface considered. Every way gives different power of shine. Let’s start with most glossy and then in descending. Firstly, you can use a foil. Cover the nail with second layer of transparent polish trying to paint out only the triangular region where the foil is going to be placed. Take the special foil for nail- art – glossy foil from one side and of dull surface on the transparent film on another side. For convenience you can cut the foil into plates of about size of nail. Put the foil on the nail facing the glossy side to the nail’s plate; nail is cover with polish which is not fry up yet. Stamp and

sleek the foil, hold for a 5 sec and then carefully remove the transparent film. Cover obtained surface with transparent polish. Cover the surface around triangle with scotch and green polish or green metallic acrylic color and brush, as in first example. All that should be done after the transparent polish dry up entirely. Secondly, the sparkles can be used. Sparkles should be small but not as a dust, of good quality (and of even “grind“) – particles should be round or square but not as a straw. To implement the intention cover the nail with two layers of transparent polish. It is better to deposit the second layer of polish with thin brush on the region of triangular, or you can border the polish with scotch (we need sparkles stick only in the triangular region; if some of them step out the triangular, we paint them out but inequality of surface appeared). Wait for a moment when polish is almost dry up, i.e. it has not drag on already but stick yet. Pour a batch of sparkles, dip the finger in and press the surface of nail as if worm the sparkles into the surface of nail. Fling of the undue with downy brush (remove scotch if you used it). The glossy and almost mirror surface obtained. Cover with transparent polish. With the help of scotch and green polish or green metallic acrylic dye and brush cover the surface around the triangular region as in first example. All that should be done after the transparent polish dry up entirely. Thirstily, try to hustle through the experiment with silvery or perlaceous polish. First it is necessary to deposit a second layer of color polish – green chameleon as in 1 example said. After the thorough drying put the two bordering stripes of scotch, and cover the triangular formed inside with silvery or perlaceous polish. Then cover with transparent polish over all. Fourthly, there is a silvery acryl also. Put the second layer of green chameleon polish as in fest example described. With thin brush of middle length and silvery acryl you should paint out the triangular in the middle of nail. Cover all that woth transparent polish. Example 3 – First layer is transparent polish, second layer- crème-colored polish Example 4 – First layer- transparent polish (lacquer base), second layer – crème-colored polish. Unfortunately, when cover a large surface with light-crème acryl, and then with transparent polish, a yellow clot can be formed. Therefore it is better to cover with crème- colored polish.

Seventh Step: Creating the Composition

Finally we have reached the central part of whole paint – now from separate elements, intentions, sensations and dream we can create something undivided and the entire. Look at your composition –a little time remains to convert it into the real masterpiece. Brace up – critical stage is onwards. Notice that whatever complex the second example seems to be, it is much easier to perfect it on the right hand (for left-handed person – on left hand) than the first example. Dare!

Example 1 – Plasticized in drawing straight lines with jelled pen, we begin to paint the fringe on the border of colors in background with golden jelled pen. It is necessary to paint on still soft transparent polish. But before write the pen on the paper. Then take a black pen and draw the cloudlet step by step as on illustration depicted. Drawing the complex pattern it is better to divide it on several simple elements. Steps are always simple and clear, and complex pattern is obtained as a whole. If it is something wrong with drawing your always can remove your errors with finger or wetted cotton wool. If pen is not writing well, write it on paper, or cover the nail with one more layer of transparent polish and wait until polish became dry but soft a little. It is necessary the created image is dry up, and after that you cover it with last layer of transparent polish. Example 2 – Strasses are gluing on the transparent polish drops. Take something with blunt end, moisten it. Catch the strass with it and put on the polish drop, then press as if denting it in

polish. First glue the square strass, then small ones. Permanently look after the composition at

whole to be balanced. May be square strass needs to be stick not in the very center, but shifting to one side, up or down, it depends on sizes of triangular. Then perlaceous sand. It glues on the transparent polish, too. Deposit the polish on the region where the sand would be placed. Take 2-3 grains with moistened toothpick and put them on our

nail with polish. Align the grains with toothpick. Some times later you become to perfect this

process faster. Inlaying is the most laborious work in nail-art. All that should be covered with transparent polish. Example 3 – Put the foil stripes on the dried background. Self-sticked foil is most probably in the form of roll-wheel. Put the end of foil on the nail plate on 0.2mm from cuticle and pull the stripe. Cut the undue carefully with scissors. Note that foil should not be hanged out from the

edge of nail, else it would touch everything. The usual foil is necessary to be glued on transparent polish. Now take the silver fiber (lurex) and glue it on the transparent polish. You can cut it on appropriate stripes beforehand and crop the undue after the gluing. As in the case with foil it is invalid to rest the tips of fiber which are stuck out. All that should be covered with transparent polish for ends of foil and fiber to be blinded in polish.

Mix the transparent polish with sparkles on non-absorbing surface and put on the nail according

to the techniques described in training. If mass fixed, add some polish and sparkles. Cover all

that with transparent polish. Example 4 – Solve the acryl on saucer up to the liquid semitransparent condition. Put the general color spots on the nail surface:

green, mossy (mix the yellow and blue on the saucer = green (or ready green). Yellow plus a little of black and blue= mossy);

on the tip of leafs light-orange as if overlapped with green (yellow + red=orange);


are (blue+white=light blue).











Don’t be afraid of chaos, because the denser acryl would be covered above and it will systematize the picture. Then draw with denser paint and make thin lines. To make the thin lines with brush dip it in fine mixed paint thus there were no any clots on the brush; slightly

touching the nail with brush and hold it under the right angle to the nail surface lead it to obtain small stripes. In such way draw the veins of leafs and stems of dark green color (yellow+a little of blue+black), the shadow of buds – with bkue color, the middle of flowers paint with dark violet (violet+black). After the drying acrylic color becomes dull and more dim. Cover the nail

with two layers of transparent polish, and acryl turns out to be shine.

The Eighth Step: Rules of Saving the Executed Painting

Now we reach the finishing step. If you have done everything correctly (we almost shure about it), the result should joy you – we obtain an excellent nail-art which become the subject of envy for your friends and the cause of delight for man you love. No doubt your milieu marks your talent. As a result of our work in the first example we obtain quite simple and kind nail-art for casual wear. The second one is rich and for holyday use. Changing the color gamma to the crème you

can make this variant to the wedding. Third variant is a wedding manicure suitable, however, for romantic mood, too, or for date. Fourth example is fresh and very pleasure for summer and spring season, it is for people liking individuality; as a variant it is suitable for walking on the beach But there is a time to tell about “end date”. Unfortunately, even the best master could not give

you a warranty on his creature. Of course, nail-art holds for a one or two days certainly if owner

would not fighting or climb other the fence. The longest time for nail-art be saved is two weeks. Also put your attention onto some features of every kind of nail-art. Firstly it depends on used materials. Plane design holds on in primordial state of about a week. Secondly, it depends on a quality of prepared nails. Following the instruction we gave above you can prepare your nails in sufficient way to preserve your nail-art as long as possible. Degreasing nails, the first and the last layer of transparent polish is a key moments. Thirdly it depends on the features of your nails. Lacquer on the nails of some people can fall off on the next day, may be its sad but this is natural rejection of enthetic material. And there are people who do not make new manicure for 2 weeks. Fourthly, it depends on "strength of usage". Of course life without touching anything is hardly possible. But another extremity is not preferable. It is funny that myth exist that it is not possible to do any home work with the long nails. Such a statement is more correct for an artificial long nails, because emersed artificial long nails are a source of constant irritation. You didn't get used to them and constantly miscalculate your actions. That is why they are constantly banging, scratching etc. You don't have such problems with natural nails, but unfortunately natural nails can be thin and fragile, in that case you should build them up. Fifthly, every composition has several features. For example, in our second example the week point is using the sand. Upper layer of sand is rubbing out quickly, therefore we recommend you to cover your nails with one more layer of transparent polish the next day. Just remember that covering the nail-art with polish could lead to softening effect, be careful with it! In general, the more layers of transparent polish are deposited on, the more strong manicure obtained, within reasonable limits of course.

In any case, after a few days nail art become decrepit. You can repair it if you have not much time or wishes. Glue the stresses fallen down, cover with new layer of transparent polish and so on. Some of designs could be repaired wonderfully up to the newest composition, the other ones do not possess this features. You must also remember that most stable nail art is a design that is using only lacquers. For example, manicure based on the method of mixing of the drops or flat design without knobs and relief are using for this case.

Example 3. Drawing with spangles and transparent lacquer is very stable in exploitation. Very dangerous moment is the one with the ungluing of the fiber and the foil. If fiber and pieces of foil will start to fall off, take transparent lacquer and stick them back. If this was unsuccessful, cut prominent parts, and everything else cover with transparent lacquer.

Example 4. Theoretically this work is stable and will hold on for long. But it is necessary to stress the following point when using acryl. Since this is water-soluble paint then with the damage of the upper covering layer of tansparent lacquer, design will start to destroy under influence of water and soap, during washing of the hands. This means that you must obey the rule, that if the surface of the nail is scratched, than transparent lacquer must be varnished on damaged place. he same rule applies to an action of sawing or cutting of the nail, cause transparent lacquer create domical membrane over acryl and if this membrane is damaged then acryl will start to dissolve.

Foundations of the work

In an addition to our "eight steps" we would like to enlighten you in two of the most frequent technology of the working, that will be classical manicure and french manicure.

Classical manicure

It is important for nails to be dry and deprived of fat before the process of glazing, in that case varnish will last for long. To deprive nails of fat you should clean them with the web wetted with the nail-polish remover or you should make light polishing with the block until surface of the nail turn dull. If you just have removed old varnish then your nails are already deprived of fat. Do not touch your skin with the surface of the nail after degreasing. Procedure is the following:

1. It is obligatory to apply lacquer-base on the nail. You can use ordinary transparent lacquer.

2. Now you must take main lacquer and shake flask cautiously few time.

3. Dip brush in lacquer and press it to the one of the edges and move it up, this way you will deprive it from superfluous lacquer. For the thumb you should take more lacquer (you can just dip brush in the flask, wait for one drop to fall down and then start to paint, with one side of the brush initially and then with the other) For the little finger you should take lesser amount of lacquer. But anyway the rule is, that for each nail you must dip brush only once and put only one layer as a result.

4. You must not bring brush to the root of the nail, but only to the region not reaching the root. Touch, shift brush up to the foundation of the nail (nearly to it) and then shift down with single, straight stroke. In the same manner you should repeat this procedure on the left and right side of the first stroke. If stokes are not straight, you can make another couple of movement. Some skill will appear with experience. Do not lacquer with your hands in the air. It will be good, if you are to put finger with nail being lacquering on the table and the foundation of the palm of lacquering hand is reclining on the table.

5. After you have painted all your ten fingers, first lacquered nail will be already dry and you can lacquer it with the second layer. Amount of the lacquer is defined by lacquer itself, by it colour, texture and quality. Usually you should use 2-3 layers. First layer is drying out during 10-15 seconds. Second layer is drying out during 2 minutes, and third during 5-10 minutes. Exact numbers are depend on lacquer itself. The most important thing during this procedure is not to touch anything with the nails.

6. You can check, that lacquer is dry, if during slight touch of two surfaces they are not gluing.

7. Correction of errors is made with the help of the correctional pencil.

8. You must necessarily cover nails with the coating lacquer in the end. It can have some

additional features like an effect of wet cover or effect of dullness. Or you can use general transparent lacquer. This kind of 3-layer's "pie" from lacquers as lacquer-base, colour-lacquer and coating lacquer lets the manicure to hold on for a week (mine held on for two weeks, when I had no possibility to make a new one). During this time it will not peel off, it will not exfoliate and this is not a dream! This kind of manicure can hold on during washing and cleaning up. And it doesn't matter what type of colour-lacquer is being used. I will mention only that if you are to use basic covering for the levelling of surfaces, then your manicure can come off completely. That is why best foundation and cover is a transparent lacquer.

It is significant that during nail-art you must apply the same technique as in classical manicure, with only that difference that instead of simple color layer you are drawing some design or decoration. During nail-art procedure you will have the same 3-layer's "pie"

French manicure.

This kind of manicure is suitable for business life and for a holiday. For example with same elegancy the hands of buiseness woman and that of the bride can be decorated with it. It is also appropriate for men. Nice feature of the french manicure is that you can easily correct with it imperfections of the nails and keep their natural view.

Fench manicure is made by hand with usage of thin brush or by the template. First of all you should put tansparent or beige lacquer. Then edge of the nail is covered with white lacquer, restricting by so called "smile", which is the line of the free edge. To draw steady line you must have some training and good brush. The easiest way is to make smile with the usage of template. These templates can be bought ready, this is just a fascia of sticky paper that is glued under free edge and tip of the nail is being painted, after lacquer dried off template is removed. It is also possible to make template on one's own. For this operation you can take usual transparent scotch tape, cut fascia 2-3 cm long, accurately cut slight curve of the same form as line of cuticle. Template from the scotch tape is used in the same way as template from the shop. Theoretically line of smile must be the same as the line of cuticle.

It is important to keep up proportions during french manicure. Smile should be one half of the nail-bed. There are some special sets, which contain necessary lacquers and templates for french manicure. It is generally regarded that classical french consist of combination of the following colors: beige, pink or natural foundation and white tip, but any pastel colors are applicable. It is suitable also to cover manicure with transparent lacquer or transparent with pink nuance lacquer. By the way, excellent variant of manicure is the one with silver spangles on the tip.

French manicure made by acrylic material (do not mix with the acryl paints) is usually called "permanent french". It can be done by any material with the usage of absolutely any technology. Initially on the forms you put french with the help of brush and white ball of the needed consistence and nail-bed is filled with transparent mass, slightly exceeding white part. Also during tailing of the nails, master can make white tip with the usage of special pencil.

In salon you can also be proposed with some special french tips. They are glued to the free edge of the nail. These tips do not require frequent correction and that is why they are appropriate for person with the lack of free time.

It is also interesting to note that in modern french white demilune near the foundation of the nail is created. Form of demilune must be symmetrical to the line of smile. It is important during creation of the permanent french fo material not to get to cuticle, so you should leave distance of the size of horsehair. Also be careful during sawing, cause if smile or demilune are sawed, then surface will have non uniform color.

Drawing with Water-based Paints

One of the most interesting and complicated technique of operation with nails is creating the images with water-based paints. A vast number of special materials required for this technique, and we will describe them separately. Brushes can be made from squirrel, kolinsky, zibeline, or from synthetic fur. Kolinsky brushes and synthetic fur brushes are especially good for our purpose. Brushes should have numbers 0, 00, 000 and 01 – but be careful: there are several different system of brush thickness determination. Also some of next brushes could be useful to us:

Dots brush – have no fluff, with ball on the end like ball-pen. Put this brush down to the polish and make dots and commas. Also, semi-dried drop could be smeared out or dented in;

"Peacock" brush resemblesr fan. Put 2-3 drops of different colours in the palette, take them with one motion onto the brush in such a way when every drop lays separately without fusing. Trace with brush onto tha nail; as a result – blotchiness of polishes overlapped each other. You can trace a wave lines;

“Hairline” brush – about 20-30 mm long and 1-2 m width. Very comfortable when you are painting the strict lines and different curves. Batch of algae, net, stripes, edge the boundaries between colors. Put this brush with 2/3 of its longitude onto the nail and stretch out as whole through the curve you are drawing;

Plane brush – width of this brush is about 4 mm. It is suitable for ornaments like Gzhel when take 2-3 drops of different colors at one stroke;

“Petal” brush – like plane but with truncated corner. It is comfortable for drawing different leaflets of flowers;

Fluffy brush with sharp end for covering the surface and for sparkles;

Thin brush of middle size - of 5-8 mm long and 1-2 width. The most seasonable and involved brush. Draw dots, middle lines, curles etc;

Thin short brush - 2-4 m long and 0,5-1 mm width. It is required for very fine details. It is very complicated in use and requires some skills and giid training.

Liners – these are the special polishes with brush inside them. They differs from usual polish with more liquid consistence. But if you have an acrylic and goof brushes, there is no sense to buy the liners. Gouache – it is the water-glue-based color. The sour-cream body of gouache needs for our work.

The most serious disadvantage of gouache - it is badly cover onto the glazed nail surface. There are two ways to escape this problem:

1. sandpaper the surface with bath (make the surface of nail rugged) – this way is efficient but do not apply it too often wherefore it is not use for your nail;

2. add the PVA glue in the gouache in the ratio of 1 part of PVA for 4 part of gouache. This recipe is not so awful as looks like; these two substance complements each other. If all your actions are correct, actually you would obtain the tempera PVA with high adhesion.

A special talk about Acrylic (water-polymeric) paints – it is the most convenient paint for nail drawing, because of it advantages and the lack of faults. When this paint dried up, it forms the film insoluble in water, therefore it should be covered with transparent polish. By the way, before you cover the nails with transparent polish, you may remove the acrylic paint partially or entirely with water, erasing it with wet cotton wool. It is very convenient in the case the nail is not good or one of elements not succeeded. Old nail-art based on acrylic paint you can easy remove with polish by polish remover liquid Regarding the technique: if you wish to colour your nail with acrylic paint entirely, you should waiting for full drying and only after that you can deposit the transparent polish. If the nail plate saw or break later, paint would be easy to wash off because continuity of the upper layer disturbed. Actually acrylic paints are suitable for everything in the plane variant. There are usual (mat) and metallic acrylic paints. Thus, having a set of 6 (7) colors of acryl paints (red, blue, yellow, white, black, violet and crimson) + metallized colors, you can refuse entirely from the usual polishes excepting transparent polish and special (like temperatural, fluorescent and so on). Now there are acrylic chameleon-colored paints, and fluorescent ones, in the shops. Considering the optimum variant for nail-art we suggest the decision includes a set of acrylic paints and thin brushes. Not counting, of course, the materials for preparing to nail-art, this set is enouth for creating. You can buy all of this in the art-salon, better not to buy the colour sets but

different paints separately, because the colour sets contain colors you are not need in. For example, unfortunately, the term of red colour is quite diffuse for men without art education. Even worse the situation with violet color: one could count as violet such colours as carmine (purple), or ultramarine, while purple is between violet and red, and ultramarine – between violet and blue. And alike situation can be observed with every colour. For you convenience we listed an art names of colours below – specify the name when buying the paint:

ultramarine and/or blue;

green grass;

middle yellow;

cadmium dark red, middle red;

titanium white (white);

carbon-black (black);

carmin, tyrian rose (bright carmine, purple);

light violet.

tyrian rose (bright carmine, purple); • light violet. Picture #33 You need in small but of

Picture #33

You need in small but of high quality volume of paints. From home-produced quite cheap and of high quality is “Ladoga”; from foreign Decolor, APA color. Also you should remember that good acrylic paints is of saw-crème consistence; if it contains too much water or clots, and viscous, try to mix it. Add the water if you have not success in mixing. But when clots remains, and viscous, and flakes, just throw it away. Look after the acryl not to dry up, add the water to the jar and mix the paint. You not be able to dissolve the acryl after it has dried up. Also you need in metallic colors like “gold”, “light gold”, “silver”, “white silver”, “black silver”, “bronze“. These colours - for your taste. Dissolved these colours looking whitish, and only after drying find their fairy gold or silver color. You can see their true colors on the edge of jars where the paint is dried up completely; the difference is remarkable. Please remember that acrylic paints should be fixed with transparent polish, but only after drying. It is good to buy the acrylic paints in tubes. Then squeeze out the paint onto the palette (dense paper of white plate) and taking from there with brush to mix colour you need. Also, acrylic paints dry up fast in the open air. Of course the time of entirely drying depends on the amount of water containing in the paints, but during 10 minutes your paints covers with resin-liked film which I improbable to dissolve. Little pieces of drying paints could get onto your work, and this leads to the roughness of surface. You should remember that all the mixing carried out onto the palette; onto the nail itself the mixing of colors very hard to perform except the cases of “polish drop mixing”, but then the acryl should be quite liquid.

Acrylic paints are easy to mix among themselves, let yourself to carry out fusion experiments. There are three primary colors only; the others are derivative, while black and white colors are the absence or presence of all these colors. Thus say about some general rules of color’s transmission:

Primary colors are concerned to be red (r), blue (b), and yellow (y). Mixing these colours in 1:1 ratio we well obtain:

b+y=green (g) y+r=orange r+b= theoretically, the result is violet, but practically the dirty-claret obtained. Therefore you need to buy violet and carmine separately. Fusing carmine and blue (ultramarine is better), the result will violet. With the adding of black colours become dark. Colours become lighter with white, but brightness of color will decreases. g+b=marine blue b+white =light blue y+a small amount of black=marsh b+black+white=gray blue (steel-blue) Orange+white=creme y+g=pistachio-colored r+b+y=brown.

Drawing the nails with acrylic paints is like a miniature creating on the paper. Sand, strasses, sparkles are suitable to add the acrylic painting, giving the volume to nail-art. But be carefull with this to safe harmony. Drawing the tiny details with acrylic it is necessary to hold the brush - short thin and long thin - under the strict angle. Drawing curlets, commas, dots you necessary in the small drop of colours situated on the edge of the brush, which stretching along the surface gradually. If the image is multicolored, dabs could overlap each over, be amorphous, transparent. The brush can be with dense or, vice versa, liquid paints (give it some time for drying after depositing; else you fuse all your creatures). There is an interesting way to work with very liquid acrylic paints - the shaking off effect. Put the drop near the basement of all 5 nails of one hand, it is more desirable for colour to be contrast to background; then shake the hand energetically; thin ramified colored tracks result. You may decorate them with sand or strasses.

tracks result. You may decorate them with sand or strasses. Picture #34 There is a term

Picture #34

There is a term in painting – gradient –when one colour gradually change with another and we drawing this transition. To recreate the gradient by acryl is very hard task. Approximate effect

results in mixing all of the intermediate colors at the palette. If you wish to make a gradient for whole nail, it would be better to mix 3-5 additional (not counting the primary) intermediate tones, gradually covering the nail with stripes. But this is a particular case.

the nail with st ripes. But this is a particular case. Picture #35 Another feature can

Picture #35

Another feature can be happened - after drawing with crème acryl and coating with transparent polish, the clots of yellow paint comes out from the surface, and your work is spoiled. In this case you should use the polishes of crème color. During the coating nail surface with acrylic paints of light tones and further depositing the transparent polish, the surface may become clotty. In this case it is better to use the polish of necessary color as background or draw the picture on acrylic background at once, and then cover the work with transparent polish. But if you not succeeded even in tiny detail, you would not be able to remove exactly this part of ornament, but with the piece of background only, that is unpleasant.

to remove exactly this part of ornament, but with the piece of background only, that is

Picture #36

Chapter V. Useful Information about Your Nails

Nowadays there are a lot of methods to make the women’s beauty timeless. You can smooth your wrinkles, push up the bust, tip off the fat depot – where there are the will and money there is a way for your appearance blameless. But one can put the observant eyes on your hands and they tell him everything about your age. That’s why we decide to speak about “banality” – the structure of nails, theirs illnesses and main items of care for nails and hands. Indeed, whatever nail-art you have been made, the result would be undesirable if source material is no bloody good.

A structure of nail

Nails as like as hair are the nothing but appendage of the skin and execute a protecting function. Nails itself are the corneous formation having a platelike structure. Nails are breathing, and the chemical materials circulate inside them; they evaporate the moisture but food and rest are not required during coddling them. Nails are the hard cover for tender ends of fingers with the help of that we grasp different bodies and physically sense the environmental objects. It should be noted that the beginning of nail’s normal growth and forming nail’s plates coincide actually with the moment of man’s birth. Before this event, i.e. in prenatal period, nails also grow but slow exceedingly. Growth of the nail becomes from matrix, a tissue that is the heart of the nail. Matrix is the block of cells in the region where skin cells separate from the nails plate. Damaging of matrix leads to the permanent deformation and even entirely ceasing of nail’s growth. The source of nail is the nail’s root situating under the skin. Root implants in the nail groove under the ultimate nail fold exactly under the matrix. Nail root and matrix are protected with promaximal nail fold which is represented the skin crease in the nail’s base. Above the promaximal nail fold there is a white formation of crescent shape – luppula is the sequel of matrix. As growing nail proceeds to harden during the process of its rising above the luppula, it remains soft at first and could be damaged easily. Nail plate is the fossil layer of keratin. In the matrix keratinocytes compact and become evenly and plane promoting to shape the nail’s plate.

External structure of the nail

Nail bed represents rose-coloured piece of skin enlarged upon the luppula. Nail bed is reach with blood capillaries bringing here the blood enriched with oxygen, and giving the nail-bed it’s healthy rosy color. Doctors can easily check the sanguimotion in your hand pressing the nail- bed. Cuticle bonds strongly the promaxial nail fol with nail plate in the base of nail naimed hyponychium. Cuticle hermetically isolates the nail bed and matrix from water and air. Without such strong defence very hot and moist condition could be formed in these two regions for normal growth of ungual germ. External part of the nail represent the nail plate itself, limited with nail rollers from three side – with one back and two lateral. Nail rollers — is the skin formations which in the place where skin dies away into the nail plate, generates the sinuses, or nail bosomes, - back and lateral, respectively. Nail sinuses — are the places you should put your close attention during manicure, because these regions provide vast amount of scurf, as from the nail plate’s side as from the rollers, too. Therefore insufficient nail

sinuses sanitation (poor cleaning of the nail’s backsides from the cuticle layers – whitish, like resin or, backward, dry stratifications) leads to the fast laminating of the polish or acrylic materials exactly in these places. Thickness of the nail plate is 0,30—0,45 mm if one say about thinning nails; and when the thickness more than 0,5—0,6 mm one can say about nail hyperkeratinization.

Nails Health

One can define the level of health through the color of nail, and diagnose different illnesses, cause horny layer (keratin substance) the nail consists of, fare with our blood circulatory system. The nail of healthy man is always of uniform rosy colour. The yellow tone of nail could give testimony of pathology of liver; bright red colour says about erythremia; bluish-and-violet color of nail happens at innate cardiac failure; if you have a white spots on your nails, perhaps central nervous system is not fine, while yellowish spots could testify the failure of brain function. If you interested in beautiful healthy nails, don’t start with looking after them but with right- balanced nutrition. You must get all the vitamins, mineral salts and microelements listed below in sufficient amounts, then your nails become strong and healthy.

Action of the most important mineral salts in the human organism





Foods and common salt


Natrium and Foods and common salt chloride Kalium Greengrocers, meat, cacao, fruits. Especially rich
Natrium and Foods and common salt chloride Kalium Greengrocers, meat, cacao, fruits. Especially rich


Greengrocers, meat, cacao, fruits. Especially rich in kalium are potato, cabbage, cauliflower, apricot, peach, pumpkin, grape


Milk and milk foods, grass


Legumes, egg yolk, cabbage, fish, off-corn



Legumes, cabbage, fish, off-corn


Spinach, nettle, liver, spleen, grape, egg yolk


Crops, legumes, nuts, mushrooms, onion, liver, egg yolk



Also your attention should be put onto the chemical elements consisting in the organism in very small concentration: some of the biological processes are impossible without them. The most important microelements are: ferrum, iodine, zinc, cobalt, fluorine, aqua etc. Vitamin B 1 (Aneurin) is contained in yeast, off-corn, liver, cabbage, carrot, turnip, onion, spinach, wheaten germs, almonds etc. Promote the carbohydrate metabolism and activity of nervous system. Daily needs in aneurin are about 2-5 mg. Vitamin В 2 (Riboflavin) is contained in brewer’s yeast, cabbage, spinach, carrot, milk, egg yolk, fish, legumes, crops. Daily needs in B 2 — 2 – 4 mg. Vitamin PP (Antipellagra factor, nicotine acid) is contained in legumes, fruits, vegetables, and in the products of animal origin. It participates in oxidizing and reducing organism reactions. Daily need is 15-20 mg. Vitamin B 6 (pyridoxine) is contained in off-corn, liver, kidneys, brewer’s yeast, crops, peas. Bananas are especially enhanced with B 6. When this vitamin consists in insufficient amounts, weakness of muscles, anemia and fat sediments in liver appear. Vitamin В 12 (animal protein factor) is contained in food of animal origination; participates in protein and carbohydrate metabolism. In the absence of this vitamin the malignant anemia appears.

Vitamin C (hexuronic acid) is wide-spread in all fruits and vegetables, especially in dogrose, citrus, cayenne, sorrel, potatoes, parsley etc. Daily requirement in C vitamin is 70—120 mg. In the poorness of this vitamin the weakness, tendency to contagions, bleeding gingiva, nosebleed are observed; in the case of entirely absence of this vitamin man is sick with scorbutus. Vitamin В ]5 (pangamic acid). It wide-spread in the nature and participates in the metabolism. Vitamin Р (citrin) is contained in all fruits and vegetables especially in the pell of citrus, in the black-current, red bilberry, dogrose, tea etc. Daily requirement is 50 mg. Vitamin А (retinol) is contained in the foods of animal origination, while provitamin A (carotin) in the foods of plant origin; wide-spread in liver, egg yolk, dairy products, cod- liver oil. Provitamin А (carotin) is contained in all dark-green coloured parts of fruits and vegetables (spinach, red bilberry, etc), and also in orange-red coloured vegetables and fruits, such as carrot, tomato, cayenne etc. Daily requirement in vitamin A — 1,5 mg. Vitamin D (calciferol) is contained in cod-liver oil, egg yolk, oil, caviar. Daily requirement in vitamin D - 500—1000 mg. Vitamin Е (tocopherol). It is contained in vegetable oils (corn oil), green bean, green peas, lettuce, wheat, maize etc. This vitamin regulates the reproduction and promotes the activity of endocrine glands, and metabolism in the organism; improve the fixation of vitamin A in organism.

Nails problems

Nails are fragile, brittle. For nails strengthening are usually used baths with warm seed- oil with an addition of vitamin A, three drops of iodine or five drops of lemon juice. Make these baths 1-2 times per week. Moreover effective remedy for strengthening of brittle nails is sea-water. If you are unable to provide yourself a possibility to be few times per year on sea, then buy sea-salt and few times per year do nail-baths (10 minutes each day during a month). Dosage of the salt is usually explained on the wrapper. In the worsest case you can make a solution with kitchen salt (1 table-spoon per glass of water) and add there drop of iodine. Effective remedy for nail strengthening also is a regular rubbing of lemon juice, or cranberry, black-currant, red-currant juice. Very effective also treatments for nails with beeswax. Heat up wax on bain-marie, then put your fingers into it. Wax thimbles will appear on your fingers, and you must keep them till the next morning.

Nails are stratify. Stratified nails can be the cause of fungus infections, and they can be caused by work with different chemical agents, dissolvents. During the work with chemical agents you must use protective rubber gloves and necessarily cover your nails with protective lacquer. Also the reason of this problem can be bad nail file, for example diamond one. Nails are became yellow. If yellow color of the nails is not connected with any disease (look "Nail's diagnostics"), you can enlighten them with 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide, lemon juice or special solution, that can be home-made. For this you'll be needed:


part of glycerin, 5 parts of hydrogen peroxide or 1 part of glycerin, 1.5 parts of perhydrol,


parts of distilled water

Nails are having rough edges. Do not bite around and do not tear round skin near the nails. Remove rough edges with special solution or tweezers, and regularly rub in fingers nail's cream.

For your nails to look good, all of the treatments must be permanent

Looking after your nails

Nails is one of the most tender point of the woman. It's not a secret that they are usually open on the street and exposed to the influence of the wind and sun. Moreover, sometimes women are washing dishes and hot water, washing powder, rinse-aids make nails brittle and fragile. The easiest and most accesible way to restore nails is a lemon mask. You must take thick piece of lemon, put it on the plate and plunge your nails into it's bulk for 50-70 seconds. Strangely enough, but they will become snow-white and shining. But this mask should not be done if nails are too dry and brittle. Bath of sea-salt can be done also for nail's strengthening. Usage is quite simple, in the glass of warm water you must stir up 2 table-spoons of sea-salt (for baths), and put your nails in water for 15 minutes. To whiten nails you can add to the water few drops of lemon juice. Also you can add few drops of ethereal oil, like canangha's oil, lemon. For better dissolve oil is dripped on salt and after that salt is stirred up in water. This treatment must be done each day during two weeks. After that it is constantly made 1-2 times per week. As a variant of "exotic" mix, you can use the following: cover your nails with heated up vegetable oil with an addition of the salt. That's simple, isn't it? It will be a good idea to make baths with sea-salt once per week and it would be even better idea to plunge your fingers in warmed vegetable oil. Also you can buy special oil for cutilcles in the shops. It is desirable for you to find some time, at least in week-end and give your nails a treat with the mask from usual moisture cream. Rub cream in the skin around the nails and for ten minutes keep your hands in paper-bag, cover them with towel for more warmth. Excesses of the cream should be wiped out with the absorbent paper. Also for strengthening of the nails do regularly baths with St.-John's wort and thyme. Extract of St.-John's wort makes nails stronger and healthier, and thyme's extract soften skin around the nails. This treatment will help to prevent appearing of rough edges. But you must understand, that fragility of the nails itself is a result of some factors. Amongst them is lack of calcium and vitamins in food, drying of the nails with different cleansers, constant sawing off of the nails with scissors (as a result nails are deforming). Shape of the nails must be formed with the usage of nail-file. Sawing should be taken smoothly, in direction from side parts to the middle, and you shouldn't saw side parts of nail too hard, or you can have growing in of the nail. Nails shouldn't be too short, they must protrude over bulk part of the fingers. Long nails must be cleansed necessarily each day from the internal side with the help of the brush with soap or with the stick with quilt, wetted in lemon juice. But take into account, that usual sharp, metal nail-file is bad for the nails, it makes them brittle and destroying its structure. To prevent it, nail-file should be ceramic or metal with bended inwards cells. You should also remember about the basis for lacquer, cause it contains oil and vitamins, which nourish root othe nail, and so, strengthening the nail and assist its growing up. Also basis don't let lacquer to get in contact with nail's surface, which means that lacquer don't destroying nail itself. And basis prevent change of the color of the nail under influence of lacquer. By the way, basis should be chosen correctly, it is desirable to use advice of specialist at first time. In any case, try to use lacquer's basis, lacquer itself and fixing agent of the one and the same firm. It is forbidden to make manicure constantly, cause nails need a rest too. By the way, nail is "breathing" near the root of the nail, i.e. where cuticle is situated. That is why it is important not to paint nail till it's root. And one more warning, be extra careful with the root of the nail, it is very sencible point, its cells are dying from the slightest mechanical influence. And as a result nail is darkening, guzzling and sometimes even detaching. If only one nail is broken, do not be in hurry to cut all other nails. Because it can be "repaired" in some sence, in every modern salon you can have new nail glued or old one growed up, or "patched" with the help of the silk in case if nail is cracked. But nails can be cured at home. First

of all reject from manicure for a few days and teach yourself to cover your nails with the basis for lacquer, that contains calcium. After three of four days with the help of the nail-polish remover remove all of the layers and repeat this procedure. It is also useful to use so called "nail's cure", which is reach with vitamins, that every well-known firm is producing. This is not pills, you must only watch carefully, that medicine is get to the alveolus near the root of the nail.

Few words about lacquer.

- firstly look at your nails: if they are rough or having furrows, then it is better to use light

lacquer. Moreover it is better to use dull lacquer, not nacrous, cause dull lacquer concealing surface imperfections. If you are having wide nails, then use darker colors.

- always use basis for lacquer, in this case lacquer will hold on longer, and nails will not became


- never cover nails with lacquer after bath or shower, because it will not hold on steamed nails.

- always start putting lacquer from the middle of the nail, so it will not get to the skin.

- small imperfections can be fixed with corrector.

- cover nails with additional layer of lacquer, so nails will keep shine for longer.

Looking after your hands.

Women's hands with sharp nails are constantly in the center of attraction, whenever their owner working at home, or gesticulating roughly, talking about something. Hand's skin doesn't posess suplies of fat and water, and situation is aggravating because of the contacts with cleaners and frequent hand washing. As a result skin of the hands became wrinkled, shaggy and crannied. But this can be avoided if you are to use few simple advices. For example wipe dry hands after the wash. Try not to use fans for hands. And do not forget to dub hands with cream. And if skin of the hands is really damaged, it is necessary to dub thicker layer of cream and left it for whole night under protection of cotton gloves. When you are chosing cream, draw your attention to the degree of light protection, that is showed on the packaging. The higher it is, the better is resistance to the wrinkles and protection from nevuses pigmentosis provided by cream.

Once in a week find at least half an hour for manicure. By any means find yourself nail-file (it would be a good idea to use ceramic one) and orange stick for removing skin from nails. You shouldn't cut skin around the nail with the help of scissors or tweezers, because it will only force it to grow stronger and thicker. You can also use special lotions, which have special effect to slow down it growing. For nails to shine and have flat surface, they must be polish with special cushion.

There are some other advices how to look after your hands. Here are some of them:

it is important to draw your attention to the procedure of hands washing. For this hygienic procedure it is desirable to use soft water, you can soften hard water with the usage of salt, one table spoon per litre of water;

you should wash hands only with warm water, because from cold water skin starts to peel, and from hot water it became flabby;

use only soft soap (gel, froth) with softening and wetting additions; you can also use special child's soap that is developed specially for a sensitive skin;

to remove peeling, prepare ointment from lemon juice, linseed-oil, yolk and honey; cover your hands with it before going to bed;

also you can made a mask: cook porridge, add some vegetable oil and put this mixture on your hands for 10-15 minutes; it is recommended to make this mask for the night;

also warm bath from broth of the oat-flakes will soften skin and remove peeling; it should be made for only 10-15 minutes;

mashed potatoes is not just a tasty dish, but also an excellent compress for hands: cover your hands with warm smashed potatoes, and wrap them with cellophane and bath towel; keep them in this state for 15-20 minutes;

after laundry it is of use to wash them with weak solution of acetic acid or dub it with lemon juice, kefir or clabber;

hand's skin will be smooth and elastic if you are to dub it with the mixture of olive oil and infusion of japan's mushroom in proportion 1:1, after each washing of hands; you can wear cotton gloves in order not tosoil bed;

to prevent hand's reddening you can alternate baths with cold and hot water (or contrast baths); repeat this procedure 10-15 times, and finish it with cold water; before going to bed it is recommended to make massage with nourishing enriched cream;

each day wash hands in warm water with addition of few drops of milk or cream and hand's reddening will disappear with time;

also, very effective baths with sea salt: add 200g of sea salt to the 1 litre of water, boil it and cool down, this way you'll get medical hot "sea" water; put your hands in this water for 15 minutes, and afterwards for 5 minutes in cold one, repeat this procedure few times; afterwards dub hands with cream.

Also draw your attention to some rules of hands protection from ill effects of environment. Following this few simple rules you'll be able for your hands to look smooth, beautiful and delicate. So:

Before going outside dub hands with protective or nourishing enriched cream. Excesses of the cream remove with the help of absorbent paper. You can also use wetting cream, because it is quickly absorbed and do not leave oily traces.

Hand's cream dub to the palms and elbows two times per day, in the morning and the evening. You can also dub in skin fat cream or oil.

If it is cold and windy outside, wear gloves.

Gloves will come in handy at home too: rubber gloves during wet cleaning and cotton during dry cleaning. It will protect you from dirt and aggressive influence of different chemicals.

Grafting the Nails

The fact famous for long ago – negligent coiffure and non-well-groomed hands spoil woman. You know, for beautiful looking one should not only be able to make herself good, but also leads the healthy mode of life. For all that, if you need in fast results, you can just grafting your “failing” nails. We just wish to lift the veil upon this secret.


Problem of exfoliating synthetic materials (acryl, jell) really exists. In the presence of this fact, conniving at this problem is senseless. Sometimes you have grafting your nails and you satisfied with it: the Master work is really gladdening the eye. But, literally, on the next day or two days later almost all grafting nails fall off. Oh my God, what is it? - will ask you. Is it non-qualitative work of master? Or bad materials? If non-qualified work or bad materials are the cause for such misfortune, probably, the nails made by another master will be at serve for longer period of time. You can try to verify it grafting your nails with another materials and master. If the trouble of

falling nails appeared once more, it is because of you. Unfortunately, this happened sometimes. Not every organism can accept the foreign body: seizure begins. These are the reasons for organism to throw away your grafting nails:

- Artificial materials (acryl, jell) fear the cold and humid hands, because these hands point onto the intensified mechanism of perspiration. Nails is not able to hold on because it is improbable to degrease the nail plate. As a rule it concerns very thin nails.

If you has taken the course of antibiotics during the treatment, your organism clear itself through the hair, skin and nails. Organism getting rid of antibiotics takes through off all the excessive.

Taking the course of hormone-containing preparations – the famous fact that there are small amounts of acetone in the organism. Eating the hormone-containing preparations (usually the contraceptive) your make the misbalance. Increasing the amount of acetone in the organism is the cause of exfoliating the artificial materials (acrylic, jell). The same situation observed when woman has misbalanced hormonal indexes.

If you are pregnant – the hormonal system of your organism rebuilding entirely, your organism guard itself against all the excessive. You almost have not any chance to cut a dash with grafting nails during your pregnancy.

Thus, before you take a decision to graft your nails, just analyze all the facts listed above. If you already have grafting nails which fell off – don’t torment master and your yourself, refuse this idea to yourself. Ingredients of materials for nails grafting remains constant, as like as technology, and there are not any new ideas in this field.

About technologies

As like as any other process required a some of resoluteness, self-sacrifice and time, nail grafting possesses its own features and technologies. There are three of them, and we tell you all the definitions and it’s advantages and disadvantages. But for the very beginning try to be attentive with nail grafting – every grafting nail gives adding weight; do not be keen of it; instead of refined nails you can obtain the claws of Freddy the Kruger .

Textile technology

If your nails healthy and of beauty shape (we trust sincerely about it) and you wish to elongate them (probably, the slow rate of nail’s growing irks you, or your nails often break) this case is exactly for you. This is simply and clearly to understand – such textile nails graft on the so- called tips – glued edges elongating the nail. This process also easy to organize in almost every nail-art salon (we do not recommend you to carry out the experiments on yourself domociliary):

- they fit the tips to your sawed nails and shape them with special nippers (do not be afraid of this name – all of the instruments are miniature and represent no damage in the hands of specialist) and scissors; - scissor out from textile (silk or linen) scraps of your nail’s shape and glue them over. -That’s all! You can cover it with polish.

The advantages of this technology – textile does not vex the skin around nail, and the nail itself does not poor much. With textile technology you can not only to graft the healthy nail but also agglutinate the cracked or chipped one. Disadvantages: such nails are fragile and easy to break. Nowadays textile technology, as a rule, is used for additional strengthening material, and for cracking nails repairing.

Jell and Acryl

There are another variant – your dissatisfied with your nails (theirs shape and length, or they are dented) insomuch as you decide to modify them entirely, i.e. graft them on the mould. In that case one files your fingernails almost buy the roots leaving about two millimeters, then polish with soft emery board to make the surface plane. In the end, one degreases your nails with special liquid, whereupon tough the nail with hand is strictly forbidden (whether degreasing was in vain?). Under the remaining two millimeters of your nail, manicurist fit a special platelet – a mould the new artificial nail will be grafting at, over your nature nails. Artificial nail could be from jell or acryl.

At first let’s talk about jell technology – such a nails could be grafted as well on the tips as with moulds: - put the jell with the help of brush on the nails – sticky clammy mass;

- then irradiate this mass with ultraviolet lamp during 2-3 minutes – and the nail become solidified;

- Deposit the jell from 1 to 3 times – depends on what hardness and strong nails you interested in;

- one shapes the nail with desirable form and length;

Such pleasure takes about 2-3 hours. Also it should be noted that jell grafting concerned as secure, but you should be able to adopt them. Jell is easy to crack with mechanical effect, and at the first time you will have to repair your nails by master. It is desirable to make sure the specialist use a medical glue which is safe for your health. By the way, the master of nail service should be chosen alike the hairdresser. Master should be exclusive and inimitable for you.

The merits of this technology – nails made from jell look beautiful, usually they become shiny and transparent, and you need not to cover them with polish. And the ultraviolet radiation using in this procedure protects from the development of fungous deceases. The negative sides of technology - it is not so easy to get rid of jell “prosthesis”, you have to file it away. This procedure is not of much enjoyment and does not bring any benefit for your nails. Sometimes one of jell nails cracks or breaks. By the way, jell nails are beyond repair, only to file away.

Now let’s talk about acryl technology. Since 20 years ago adventurous masters of nail service have borrowed the materials and technologies for this method from odontology. Acryl in this case is the powder being mixed with special liquid turns out into the viscid mass quickly solidifying on the open air – just like as filling with chemical cure. For grafting the nails with this technology, master should have serious skills and, if you prefer, talent:

- it is necessary not only to sculpt the new acrylic nail with tiny instruments conjoining the skills of sculptor and jeweler, but do it fast while mass is not solidify;

- then the nail is trimmed carefully, polished, covered with special powder – rose or white, or of different colors, - and that’s all.

Such grafting takes 2-3 hours. But you should to know before it, what is you have agree with. Note that acryl can thin or corrode the keratin layer, that can lead to spoiling the nails (to damage them for ever sounds dubiously, this is more a tale), and also increases the risk of fungous deceases’ development.

Advantages of technology – acryl-made nails are the strongest, one have to make significant errors tto break them. If you, after all, be succeeded in breaking this nails, you can to repair it for separate charge (50-70% costs of grafting). This nails are elastic and whippy – like nature nails.

And they are easy to remove: master dissolve the acryl with special liquid for the same 50-70% costs of grafting. Disadvantages: acryl itself possess stable and specific flavor, which is, tell the truth, decrease with the course of time. There are an acryl without smell but it holds worse. After removing polish you find out suddenly that acryl fingernail lost it’s shining, and if the acetone contains in polish remover liquids, your nail become yellow. So you need in second depositing of the lacquer.

Grafted nail treatment

Note that nails after grafting require carefull treatment. Of course, for the beginning, you should have to become accustomed to the casual manipulations like button up and press the keys, and many other things like these. Usually one weares artificial nails during 2-3 weeks, after that correction requires, which is usually a half of grafting cost. The border between “native” and “alien” nail is corrected, and if you wish the length is filed away, and the half of thickness; and the manipulations like at the first grafting is made. Presence of the tips obliges to it’s length correcting and depositing the new jell layer. Artificial nails could be colored with usual polishes, and we recommend to remove it by polish removers without acetone. Lacquer holds on these nails for a quite long time, because artificial coating does not secret an adipose matter promoting polish exfoliating. If it is necessary you can file away your nails with small-grained abrasive nail-file, and then polish them. Well-done grafting, as like as further correcting and removing the artificial nails are consider to be harmless absolutely. However after the removing nails made from acryl or jell your native nails would hurt for about a month, and would be of sorry sight – really, it would be so thin! But in the presence of right treatment your nails be restored soon and even increase the speed of theirs growth. And moreover, become plane and even, for owner’s pleasure have been straightened during the time of intercourse with absolutely even “prosthesis”. And in the end. Do not try to replace grafting with gluing nails made from plastic masses (tips) selling in the shops. Thick tips will influence badly onto the weakened nails, and cheap glue the producer put in every set of tips, has harm chemical ingredients. And, glued tips you have to tear off while grafting nails easy to file away accurately with the help of specialist.

Nail treatment after removing the artificial coatings

It is no secret that artificial nails are should not to be wear constantly, after 6-8 months it is desirable to remove artificial nails and give the rest for your native fingernails. After the removing artificial coatings, natural nails are recommended to take a course of vitamin treatment. It would help them to summon up fresh energy faster, and prepare for further grafting. Indulge your nails in helpful baths regularly. Make it with hot olive oil adding some drops of lemon juice, hold on for 10-15 min. For strong and healthy nails, rubbing in the ? of parsley and dill. If your nails are fragile and with white spots try to rubbing in the skin around the nail the lemon juice. And in the nail plates – vitamins А, Е, and D. Bath for nails with plant oil: take in equal proportion castor oil and olive or sunflower-seed oil. Add some drops of 2-5% iodine. Baths with herbal potions: we recommend valerian, chamomile, violet, and the dill. Dissolve one part of grass in three part of water. Coat the grass with boiled water and wait for some time to brew them. Then put the edge of your fingers in the herbal potion for 10-15 min. Make this bath every two days during the month. After taking the bath smear the skin around your nails with crème. This procedure is useful not only for nails at the rest, but also for supporting the level of necessary nutrient materials and strengthening the natural nails.