Assignment Submission Subject: Production Method

Date: 26/04/2011

SUBMITTED TO: SUBMITTED BY: Engr. Md. Tamim Jahan Faculty Pearl Fashion Institute, Dhaka, Bangladesh Md. Mesbahul Islam FMP-2(B)

COMPLETE PRODUCTION PROCESS FLOW CHART AND THE QUALITY CHECK POINT OF THE BOXER PANT

Introduction Apparel production, also known as garment production is a process where fabric i s being converted into garments. Prior to start production of an order factory n eeds to gone through some activities which is known as pre-production. Pre-produ ction process includes sampling, costing, production planning, sourcing of raw m aterial and production pattern making. Fabric cutting, printing, embroidery, sew ing, thread trimming, washing, ironing, folding and packing are the production f unctions. After receiving the order factory plans for raw material requirement for the ord

er. Raw materials like fabrics, sewing threads, packing materials, hang tags and other accessories. Factory plans timelines like when to start cutting, when to submit pre-production sample, when to finish sewing and finishing, final inspect ion date and shipment date The quality of end product (garment) ality. Secondly, fabric the main raw % of total garment cost. That is why where control the fabric saving and is very much depends on the good cutting qu material of the garment represents about 70 cutting is an important process like others garment quality.

.Various types of sewing machine are available for sewing. Machines are selected according to the seam and stitch requirement. Cut parts are feed at the start o f the line, passed through the line and at the end of the line a complete garmen t come out. Each machine is run by individual operators and an operator sews onl y one or two operations of the garment. A line consist of sewing operators, helper to feed them with cut parts, thread a nd other trims, quality checker and one fully or partially devoted supervisor. This process is performed when buyer want washing or special finishes to the gar ments. For light color garment washing is carried out to remove dirt and stains though buyer does needed washed garment for orders. Generally this process includes checking of garment, measurement checking, ironi ng, and spotting. After sewing of the garments, all pieces are checked by qualit y checker to ensure that garments are being made as per buyer quality standard. Folded and tagged garment are then packed into poly bag. During packing garments are randomly checked by internal quality controllers to ensure that only qualit y goods are being packed. . Many times a third party quality auditor is hired for this final inspection jo b. If the packed goods meet the buyers quality standards, shipment is accepted by buyer. Factory then dispatches goods to the buyer. [Available at: http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/01/apparel-manufacturingoverview.html, 2011] When end customers or consumers purchase a garment they look for quality first. So, to have a satisfied customer, retailers must keep only quality product in th eir shops. . So the manufacturers take care for garment quality at each stage of production. So it is very important to rectify defective pieces at process wher e it occurred instead of in the finishing Production process starts after receiving f packed garments. Generally export house each process to ensure that only quality tment wise quality check points have been of fabrics and end after dispatching o put quality check points at the end of pieces move to the next process. Depar explained in the following.

Fabric Store 100% fabric inspection Trim & accessories Trims inspection Cutting Room Marker checking Cut parts checking or audit Bundle inspection Printing and Embroidery 100 % inspection of printing panels 100% inspection of embroidery Sewing Department Inline check point (at critical operation) Roaming checking (Random checking) End of Line checking (100%) Audit of checked pieces Finishing Department Initial finishing inspection (after wash)

Final finishing inspection (After Pressing) Internal shipment audit

If the completed work is being checked at each process and defective pieces are corrected before handing to the next process than at the end of production there is very little chance to have a defective at final inspection stage. [Available at: http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/02/quality-check-points-i n-garment.html, 2011]

Image of the Boxer Pant

[Available at: http://www.tootoo.com/show/pro_photo.php?pid=970996, Anonymous] Process flow chart of the Boxer pant sewing line production system Assembly Line System Bundles of garment components are moved sequentially from operation to o peration, Bundles consist of garment parts needed to complete a specific operation or garment Component. Some companies work with varied bundle sizes others with standard bundle sizes. Bundles are assembled in cutting room where cut parts are matched. Bundle tickets consist of a master list of operations and corresponding coupons for each operation. Each bundle receives a ticket that identifies style#, size, shade and li st of operations Bundles are assembled in cutting room where cut parts are matched. Bundle tickets consist of a master list of operations and corresponding coupons for each operation. There are two variations of the assembly line system being followed in t he industry namely1. Progressive Bundle System 2. Unit Production System (UPS) Progressive Bundle System - Batch System This system is exactly what its name implies, a system whereby the garme nts are gradually assembled as they move through successive sub-assembly and mai n assembly operations in bundle form. The principles of this system are: The various sections are positioned according to main operation sequence , with each section having a layout according to the sequence of operations requ

ired to produce a particular component. Why I am choosing Progressive Bundle System? 1. This system is very good. Because. Every part of garment is not loosed. This system is very easy count. Every part stitches one bundle by one bundle. Th e number of bundles that need to be checked after an operator has been put under clearance can be changed. Benefit Labors of all levels, i.e., unskilled, skilled, semi skilled labors are involved in this system where the operations are broken into small simple operat ion. Hence the cost of labor is very cheap. Here the quantity of each component is checked during the individual ope ration itself, so the quality is good. The components are moved in bundles from one operation to next operation , so there is less chance for confusion like, lot mix-up, shade variation, size variation, etc. Specialization and rhythm of operation increase productivity. As the WIP is high in this system, this is stable system. Because of the buffer, the breakdown, absenteeism, balancing of line, change of style can be e asily managed. An effective production control system and quality control system can be implemented. o Time study, method study techniques. o Operator training programme. o Use of material handling equipment, such as centre table, chute, conveyo r, trolley, bins, etc. Bundle tracking is possible, so identifying and solving the problems bec omes easy. Criticism Balancing the line is difficult and this problem is solved by an efficie nt supervisor. Proper maintenance of equipment and machinery is needed. Proper planning requires for each batch and for each style, which takes a lot of time. Improper planning causes labor turnover, poor quality, less production, etc. Increase in WIP in each section increases the inventory cost. Planned and proper layout should be made to make the system effective, i .e., smooth flow of material. Variety of styles & less quantity are not effective in this system. Shuttle operators and utility operators needed in every batch to balance the line effectively. [Available at:http://www.indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=28, Anonymous] Process flow in Apparel Manufacturing Designing / Sketch Pattern Design Sample Making Production Pattern Grading

Marker Making Lay Planning Fabric spreading Cutting Sorting / Bundling Sewing Final Pressing / Finishing Packaging Storing Dispatch / Shipping [Available at: Solinger. J, apparel Manufacturing, 1986] Quality Check Point of Store RAW MATERIAL STORE Fabrics Material Storage Pre & Post Utilization of Material Labeling Stacking Covering Floor Plan of Storage Area Inventory Charts [Available at: Solinger. J, apparel Manufacturing, 1986] Fabric Store: In the fabric store fabric is being checked before issuing it to c utting department. In general not all the fabric is checked. Usually 10% of fabr ics are checked for good fabric suppliers. For power loom fabric and printed fab ric 100% checking is done. Fabrics are checked in flat table, flat table with li ght box or on fabric checking machine. 4 point system for fabric inspection is u sed to measure the quality level of the incoming fabric. Trims & Accessory: Trims quality is also very important for having a quality gar ment. Trims inspection is done randomly against the given standards, like color matching. But for trims and accessories quantity checking is essential. [Available at: http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/02/quality-check-points-i n-garment.html, 2011] [Available at:http://www.genprom.org.pk/pdf/12486.pdf, Anonymous] Quality Check of Cutting section

[Available at: http://www.genprom.org.pk/pdf/12486.pdf, Anonymous]

CUTTING DEPARTMENT Pattern Making Marker Making Spreading Cutting Block Cutting & Pattern Cutting Bundling & Ticketing [Available at: Solinger. J, apparel Manufacturing, 1986] Quality procedures in the Cutting Area During the cutting process your organization will ensure quality by having a Spr eading Inspection, a Cutting Inspection, and a Final Audit. During Spreading the following is checked: The side of the spread should be aligned +/- 1/8 The base marker should be aligned parallel to the length of the table The splice points should be identified on the base marker before spreading All splices should be marked with paper that is at least yd longer than the over lapped fabric The overlap of fabric at a splice point should exceed at least 2 on either side o f the parts in the splice The fabric laid should extend 1 - 1.5 outside of the marker The fabric laid should never be less than the markers width. The fabric width sh ould be at least 2 inches wider than the marker. The spread fabric should be relaxed, not stretched, and wrinkle-free before cutt ing. No defective fabric should be laid unless there has been an official authorizati on. During Cutting the following is checked: The marker lines should be followed. You can go out of the line by 1/8 max but ne ver cut into the part. In other words, you should always be able to see the mar ker lines. All notches should be located correctly with a depth of +/- 1/16 The markers should be attached to the stack of parts with approved staples or pi ns When cutting care should be taken not to shift the stack of parts to a side or t o cut with the blade at an angle. All parts from the same shade number should not have shade differences. All parts have the proper shape according to the marker All parts must have all notches in the correct location and with the appropriate depth. [Available at: Islam .T.A, Southern service Ltd, 2010] Cutting Room: It is said that cutting is the heart of production. If cutting is done well then chances of occurring defects in the following processes comes dow n. In cutting room, check points are i) marker checking, ii) cut part audit and iii) bundle checking. [Available at: http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/02/quality-check-points-i n-garment.html, 2011] Quality Audit All bundles need to be audited for quality before issuing to the sewing lines. Q uality audit on the bundled garments is done by the cutting-room auditor who che cks the bundles for bundle ticket descriptions, correct sequence of ply numbers, presence of all parts etc. as mentioned in the format. The second audit checks for the pieces w.r.t. the shade matching, notch positioning, etc. These audits a re conducted following the AQL chart specifications & a format called Cutting Se

ction Bundle Audit is filled. [Available at: http://www.genprom.org.pk/pdf/12486.pdf, Anonymous] Spreading Quality specification Spreading Quality must be measured with respect to the following factors: 1. ply alignment : length and width 2. ply tension stretch, slack, tight, edge 3. Grain alignment: bowing 4. Splicing: waste and precision 5. Damage placement economy of placement 6. surface direction and 7. static electricity Cutting Quality specification The cutting quality of cut fabric components has the following dimensions: 1. frayed edge 2. fusion or scorched edge 3. raggy, serrated, or fuzzy edges 4. pattern precision (under or over cut 5. notches ( size, placement and sequence alignment) 6. drilling (size, placement and sequence alignment) 7. rips or pulled yarns (machine clogs) The cutting quality of a straight knife machine is governed by: 1. the blade shape ( geometric design) 2. the type of blade edge sharpness (coarse to fine) 3. the blade composition (type of steel) 4. the vertical cutting stroke velocity 5. the horizontal cutting velocity Position marking quality The marking medium must be such that: 1. it retains its visual qualities until the marks are used 2. it can be removed quickly if necessary 3. it will not permanently discolor sewing thread or fabric 4. it is not injurious to the operators Quality specifications for markers Cutting markers have as parameters of quality 1. line value 2. knife clearance freedom 3. appropriate labeling 4. pattern alignment with respect to grain 5. the patterns vertical facing 6. the patterns longitudinal and lateral facing ( horizontal facing ) 7. the pattern count every pattern section on the marker should be labele d with its size, style, and pattern title or number [Available at: Solinger. J, apparel Manufacturing, 1986] Quality Check of Sewing Section Sewing Department: Checkpoints in the sewing departments are as followin g Process Checker/ End-Line Checker:

Will check 100% of the components/Garment that the Process checker/End-L ine Checker is assigned to check. Procedure for Checking: 1. Process Checker/End-Line Checker will check Bundle wise. 2. Will check complete bundle. That is total pieces should be in the bundle and it should be serially maintained. 3. If found that the bundle qty is less then the actual qty then they will ask the supervisor to complete the qty. after the quality is completed then will only check and pass the bundle. 4. Will not check another bundle till the previous bundle is checked and pa ssed. 5. No shortage signing by the supervisor will be allowed, supervisor has to complete the bundle and submit it to the Process Checker/ End-line Checker, onl y then that bundle will move forward. No over ridding of serial will be accept ed. 6. In bundle of 10 PCs if 2 or more defects and in bundle of 20 PCs 3 or mo re defects are found then that bundle is too considered as rejected. Checker wil l hand over the defect PCs to the line supervisor and have supervisors signature taken on the checkers format. Supervisor will have the defect rectified and will hand it over to the checker and checker will check and if passed will replace i t in the said bundle and will pass it. UN till this defect qty is replaced check er will not check any more bundle. If same problem is found in another bundle th en checker will inform this to the floor in-charge accordingly and the floor incharge will sign the checkers format and will take the defect PCs and have it re ctified and returned to the checkers. Till it is returned checker will not check any more bundles. If for the third time the same problem is found then checker along with roaming Q.C. and Floor Quality Controller will inform this to the Qua lity Assurance Manager and Production Manager for there necessary action in this regards. [Available at: Islam .T.A, Southern service Ltd, 2010] Inline inspection: In assembly line generally check pints are kept for the criti cal operations. In these checkpoints, 100% checking is done for partially stitch ed garments and defect free pieces are forwarded to the next process. This type of checking is used for high value garment. Roaming inspection: In this case checkers roam around the line and randomly chec k pieces at each operation. Traffic light inspection system: Very few garment manufacturer use this inspecti on system. In this system each operator is given a card for measuring their qual ity performance. Quality checker goes to the operator and do random check for fe w pieces and according to the inspection result, checker marked red or green on the card following rating criteria. End of line inspection or table checking: A checker checks completely stitched g arment at the end of the line. 100% checking is done here, Audit of the checked pieces: Very few manufacturers follow this audit procedure but it is very essential checkpoint to assure that only 100% inspected garment a re sent to finishing from sewing department. And all defective pieces are repair ed before sending to finishing. [Available at: http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/02/quality-check-points-i n-garment.html, 2011] Stitching quality measurement: Stitching quality is measured with the following parameters: 1. stitch size 2. stitch tension 3. stitch sequence 4. elongation 5. elasticity

6. 7. 8. 9.

resilience yarn severance fabric distortion strength tensile and abrasive

Seam quality Seam quality is measured by ail the stitching quality measurement plus the measu rement of three other parameters, seam size, seam slippage strength and seam str ength (tensile and abrasive) Seam size has three types of dimensions 1. seam depth; thickness and thickness compressibility 2. seam length: linear length per degree of curvature or angularity and 3. seam width: seam allowance, stitching seam width, full width, seam headi ng , and seam let-out The correct adjustment and condition of fabric contact part are controlled by t he action cycle and condition of the mechanical links to which they are connecte d directly and indirectly. [Available at: Solinger. J, apparel Manufacturing, 1986] Quality Check of Finishing Section FINISHING PROCESSES (Buttoning, Buttonholing, Rivet Attachment, Drawcord Attachment/ Insertion) Thread Trimming Lose Thread Removal Spotting/ Stain Removal Washing Ironing/ Pressing Tagging Folding Packing [Available at: Solinger. J, apparel Manufacturing, 1986]

Process Checker: Will check 100% 0f the component assigned for and will directly report to Finish ing Quality Controller. Will maintain hourly process checker record. Final Checker: Will mainly check outlook of the garments after final pressing. So that not a s ingle body with oil stain, soiling, not properly or wrongly pressed garments get passed. Finishing Quality Controller:

 Will Supervise, check attendance of the Finishing Quality Checkers and will repo rt it to DGM and Quality Assurance Manger. Before start of any new style will collect styling details, Spec. sheets and wil l distribute checkers duty along with styling details and requirements in writi ng to the Finishing Q.C. and will ensure that the Q.C.s knows their job. Will submit layout to Quality Assurance Manager. Will hand over daily defect pie ces to the Finishing In-charge for rectification. Will maintain Reject Garment register and will hand it over to Finishing In-Charge vides slip for replacement. Finishing In-Charge will return it to The Finishing Quality Controller after Replacement of The garments. Will check and measure the samples that are produced by the sewing line and repo rt accordingly to the Quality Assurance Manager Will Twice daily check the garments lot wise passed by the Finishing Q.C. as pe r AQL 2.5 if passed will allow for packing otherwise he will have the garments R e-checked and will again conduct checking of the Re-checked lot based on AQL 2.5 Tighten. If it passes then will send it for packing. He will properly document the report and will bring daily to the knowledge of the Quality Assurance Manger [Available at: Islam .T.A, Southern service Ltd, 2010] Initial finishing inspection: checking done prior to pressing of the garment at finishing room is known as initial finishing. Final finishing Inspection: After pressing garments are again checked and passed for tagging and packing. Internal final audit: After garments are packed up to certain quantity, quality control team, do audit of packed garments. This process is carried out to ensure that before handing over shipment to buyer QC. [Available at: http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/02/quality-check-points-i n-garment.html, 2011] Quality specifications for packing materials Quality specifications for packing paper and film are similar to same of the Qua lity specifications for fabric. The basic quality factors in paper and films are : Properties 1. clarity 2. thickness 3. width and length 4. basic weight 5. yield, sq, in/ lb Characteristics 1. tensile strength 2. elongation 3. bursting strength 4. tearing strength 5. flammability 6. porosity, air 7. moisture permeability 8. sunlight transference 9. dimensional stability to heat 10. dimensional stability to sunlight 11. resistance to odors [Available at: Solinger. J, apparel Manufacturing, 1986]

Major Defects of Boxer in sewing

Defects which affect the appearance, performance or durability to such a degree that: A customer would not purchase the product if they saw the defect. The defect wil l result in dissatisfaction when first worn or after first wash. A rejection based on these defects will normally require 100% inspection by vend or and re-audit before shipment Hole - a break in the yarn involving a minimum of two ends Dropped stitch/Run needle malfunction in knits that can cause a run Broken ends broken warp yarns that have been repaired Cut off-grain line not cut straight on the warp/fill or Wales/courses so as to a ffect the Appearance and/or shrinkage Soil, oil spots, or stains that affect the appearance at arms length Unevenness in knits that give the appearance of being shaded; due to uneven yarn size, Unapproved components or trim that affect performance, i.e. incorrect interlinin g, inferior elastic, Bias binding vs. warp cut binding Specified components or trim missing, damaged or not functioning as intended. Elastic stretch or recovery adversely affecting performance Belt not as specified, i.e. color, width, length, # of eyelets, buckle Care label illegible or inadequate instructions as per federal requirements. Inc orrect fiber content, Country of origin, or RN number. Label placement not following federal guideline s. Defective stitching, such as: Chainstitch (401), Overedge (504), Safetystitch (5 15) any broken, missing, cut or skipped needle stitches Lockstitch (301) not more than 1 skipped stitch per 6 sewn permitted on key top stitch operations or any broken or cut stitches Buttonhole (404) skipped stitches, cut stitches, stitches not securely caught in fabric, incomplete stitching, uncut, or not aligned as specified Buttons (101) not securely sewn with a lockstitch, not cross-stitched when spe cified Bartacks (404) not as specified in length, placement, width, or completely mis sing Blindstitch (103, 503) excessive pick through @ 3/32 or more, or tight tension causing distortion or puckering Irregular or uneven stitching or topstitching depending on location Pressing defects to include shine, moir, color change, scorching or other hard p sing defect Any labeling incorrectly placed or not as specified, such as size strips, hang t ags, pocket flashers Yarn breaking and loom continues/Thin Place to run. Appearance as thin line. Due to excessive loose tension caused by abnormal obstruction when obstruction r emoved the excess slack is woven and end is broken. Yarn breaking and loom continues/Thin Place to run. Appearance as thin line Small fibers of different blend filling spun into fabric Caused by ruptured wrap, ends that have been repaired Mixing of yarn, fabric will have horizontal streaks. [Available at: Islam .T.A, Southern service Ltd, 2010] A company can do to improve its Quality Developing quality control awareness When step 5, threading is introduced the trainee is acquainted with the followin g machine detail 1. the specific stitch and its quality specifications 2. The treading parts of the particular machine thread guides, tensions, ta ke ups, the needle and its section loppers, bobbins, etc. 3. the function and general sequence of the parts

4. the specific threading sequence of the machine (including the use of any necessary tool, such as a tweezers ) [Available at: Solinger. J, apparel Manufacturing, 1986] Roaming Quality Checker: Will lead the team of 7/8 Quality Checkers and will do Skip bundle check of the process checkers passed components and of the sewing op erators sewed process and will report the findings to the Floor Quality Controll er and Manager Quality. End line Checker: Will check 100% of the garments and will every hour report th e findings to the Roaming Quality Checker, Floor Quality Controller regarding th e findings of defects, he will also ensure that the concerned operator has been informed and rectification of the problem is taken care. Process Checker: Will check 100% of the parts the Process checker is assigned to check and will pass only the OK parts and will also ensure that the concerned o perator has been informed about the defect and the problem is rectified and take n care. Floor Quality Controller: Sewing Line Floor Quality Controller will lead the who le team of Roaming Quality Checker along with End Line checkers and Process Chec kers. He will check the Garments as per Set AQL of 2.5 and will follow-up the Qu ality control and keep the records of the Quality/ Will Report directly to the Q uality Manager and the General Manager. He will be responsible for the Quality o f the floor he is assigned. He will also brief his team about the sewing and sty ling details before Input of any new style. All specs and details will be provid ed by him. Finishing Quality Controller: Finishing Quality controller will be In charge of Finishing floor Quality Checkers and he will do twice daily the Random check and measurement of the packed garments as per AQL 2.5 and will give decision whethe r the checked lot to be packed or rechecked. He will be directly answerable to t he Manager Quality and the General Manager. He will be liable for the Quality of the packed Garments. [Available at: Islam .T.A, Southern service Ltd, 2010]

Conclusion To get total knowledge of production, production process flow chart is the first step and quality is the mandatory requirements. If the end-line checker finds a reject garment then Quality controller will immediately record the defect garme nt report and hand over the defect garment with a slip to the floor in-charge fo r immediate replacement, Quality controller will have the signature taken from t he Floor in-charge in the defect garment report with time and date of receipt. F loor in-charge will have it cut and made a have it handed over to Quality contro ller with again giving signature with time and date in the defect report registe r. Quality controller will ensure and hand over this piece to the out-put receiv er. In this assignment I learned theoretically and practically. With out good quali ty export production is not possible in this time because our neighbors country

India, Pakistan, china, Vietnam and many country are doing quality product so we have to maintain our quality but in low cost mean by using few manpower then ou r production will be quality full, more international eminent buyer will come to give order and thus our country will be developed which will keep role to incre ase payment.

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 Sewing section of garment industry, anonymous, [Internet] Available at:http://ww w.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/02/quality-check-points-in-garment.html [Accessed on 29 June 2011] Finishing section of garment industry, anonymous, [Internet] Available at:http:/ /www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/02/quality-check-points-in-garment.html [Acces sed on 28 June 2011] Bibliography Production System of garment industry, anonymous, [Internet] Available at: http: //www.indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=28 [Accessed on 1 July 2011] Solinger. J, Process flow chart in apparel manufacturing, 1986, [Book] apparel M anufacturing, [Accessed on 3 July 2011] Solinger. J, Quality Check Point of Store, 1986, [Book], apparel Manufacturing, [Accessed on 4 July 2011] Islam .T.A, Southern service Ltd, 2010, System Implementation [Book] [Accessed o n 1 July 2011]